Twin Brothers Faced With An Impossible Decision On Aconcagua
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- The bond between brothers is not easily shaken. But what if you were faced with an impossible choice… To leave your brothers on a deadly mountain and save yourself… or stay to help, with little hope that you last the night. Three men were presented with this exact scenario… and the result is something nobody could have predicted.
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I was on the mountain at that time. Same mountain, same time, about 1000m away. My friends were the ones rescuing the stricken climber. Story presented here is not what really happened. The climber that came down to the base of Polish route (Eric) (which I also planned to do - and solo to beat) died very quickly. It is untrue that he fell asleep and there were some EMTs. One of my friends was trained in US as first wilderness responder.
They given the climber some sugar water and did their best to keep him alive, but he was coughing out pink stuff and his oxygen saturation was low. From talking to dead was 15 min. Climber when coming down was more dead than alive. They needed to bring body down few hundred meters for helicopter pickup.
I am glad I missed this episode in my life, Polish route was total ice and totally out for the season. It was much harder climb then in normal conditions. Since I was planning to do this solo after finding out it was "bad" I decided not to - it was my first ever big mountain.
Weather on the mountain was terrible, it took me 21 days - max on permit to get to the top and out. Wind was very high. Most commercial guys failed.
The reason they were not acclimatized - they wanted to do this quick and before any more bad weather came - it was super risky and costed them their lives.
Wow thanks for the details of the story > I find it so crazy he actually found the stregth to keep walking till he was 15 mins away from death
Erick lived in Evergreen, so he was acclimatized to 9500' on a daily basis. This is probably one of the reasons he thought he could do it without acclimatization.
There was a time I had planned to climb it, and I also lived at a high altitude and did construction work at 10'000' on a daily basis. My climbing buddy and I both figured we wouldn't need much time to acclimatize. We also planned for Polish glacier. I'm kind of glad I never went.
The body’s adaptation to 10k feet of altitude is trivial compared to the much more extreme adaptation needed to survive above 20k feet. At 10k feet, there is (approximately) 68.5% of the oxygen available, compared to sea-level. At 20k feet, that drops all the way to 46.4% of sea-level oxygen.
Would daily life at 10k feet make you slightly better prepared to climb to 20+k feet? Yeah. Would that significantly improve your survival odds on a summit-and-back, without a similar amount of acclimatization time as a sea-level dweller? Honestly, no.
@@BahamutBreaker One problem with Americans is they have very little vacation time and try to cut trips short a lot - I have a friend in Nepal that plainly refused to take American team b/c they just wanted to go all super fast. I made a plan to which my Nepali friend replied that maybe I could do it but not average American.
I don't know the details here but it takes 3 days to hike to the BC - starting at a very hot, follow the river terrain. I doubt this was done faster as it is full days of hiking. The altitude at start is lower then 10k and you slowly ascent to 14k base camp - the last day is the most gain. So they were in the mountains 3 days, acclimatizing a bit to over 4000m altitude (but obviously not fully acclimatize). People living in Mexico city frequently go up Orizaba in just a weekend, so if you live at 2400m you can go to 5600m in just two days, with one night at 4000m - but no sleeping at 5000m.
When I was on Denali due to incoming storm a strong German team made the top in 6 or 7 days. I waited for 2 weeks at 14k camp for my window. Out of 3 Germans 2 made it, these that made it were sick.
I think the thing that really did this team in was sleeping at around 6700m or so. Acclimatization is very personal thing. Based on my own experience form over a month ago, and based on me living at 1100m / 4000ft it took me 4 days to hike to 5000m base camp, another week to finally sleep at 6600m safely. On other trips, I slept on 6200m on my 5th nigh (first go around) but not higher. Then at 6800m on 11th night. All perfect weather. So I sleep as high as they do after at least 11 nights in the mountains.
They may have had 3 hike in days, and if they did not take a rest day they slept at bivy spot at 6700m after just 6 nights.
Note that through Denali is much lower than Aconcagua it is much higher latitude making it feel more like 6500m relative. German team was sick but they did not sleep next to the summit of Denali - if they did they may not have made it alive.
The difference between German and American team was terrain - Denali normal route was not an alpine ice 3- climb that Polish direct was at the time Americans attempted it. Hard for you routes with hard for you retreat need planning for possible problems such as bivy. Bivy without acclimatization for 2 out of 3 ended with death.
As you said the 9500ft helped but 20000ft was just too big of a step up.
Thank you for the clarification.
These men ignored just about every rule in the book, as well as disregarding the advice of experts. This usually ends badly. By the way, December is summertime in the southern hemisphere.
Yea but it's still ridiculously cold on these peaks in summer. That's the climbing season. It's still very cold even though it's summer
@@adventurfly879 Yes, that's true of all mountains with enough elevation.
The weather that year was super windy and very low summit success rate. I was to do solo Polish direct but route was out of condition and did false Polish. These guys were trying to go quick and beat the new wave of incoming weather - or so it seems.
Eric died quick in my friends tent - the whole thing they did was.... like over their heads.
@@davymckeown4577😅
@@tomk3732😢
Huh, I was unaware that the Andes had relocated to South Africa. That must have been the most expensive relocation in all history…
End of the year is summer in the southern hemisphere
1:36 "the Andes in S. Africa." The Andes are in S. America.
Thank you I heard that, simple yet huge mistake, i hate always being the nit picky one
I am not the sharpest tool in the shed, I said I thought they were in South America. Then I thought what African language would have the word Andes.
Oh the other Andes in African lol
The thrill of adrenaline to conquer something unknown or to be a first-timer can be intoxicating. After all, what can go wrong exploring with the two most courageous, adventurous, and experiened BFF's.
This one ..I dropped a tear or ten.
Amazing story! Thanks so much. Love these videos with lots of adrenaline… mine.
The Andes are in S America, not S Africa.
I don't think there's Andes in South Africa, south America yes. Get it Right!
Came to say the same thing lol
He said south America? Atleast about a third of the way through the video
@@goddammitalana yeah I heard that, comment already made
Wouldn't the last week of the year be summer there? I understand it would be cold and all but it should not be the most brutal time of year. Long days too.
Excellent content as usual
If there's no record of acclimatization trips, can you make out the time between arrival in Argentina, time it takes to get to mountain & when they first started the ascent up Polish Glacier? Since it wasn't familiar enough to know that needed more of whatever supplies they lack, and didn't know the way down the other route, that seems to be the highest they would have practiced anyway.
End of the year in South America is summer.
See ya later Bro! I kinda gotta summit to make and a life to live but i'll be back someday, and we will be together again somewhere, maybe. In the meantime,, Hang in there.
Absolutely enjoy your channel your info is respectful to the victims and their loved ones.
Is it possible to do a documentary on the 1993 Galeras volcano eruption that killed 8-9 people!
Or the Tamora eruption
The guy said "the Andes in South Africa" 😢
Lol
“The Andes in South Africa???” Hmmm.
Condolences to the families and friends of David Reinhart and Eric Nourse. I cannot fathom the survivor's guilt of Greg Nourse. Very sad story.
Sit down bot
so they had a satellite phone and didn't use it until the day after getting in trouble...- crazy decision...
facking hell men only because they most likely did not aclamatize properly :(
No they did not. I was on the mountain same year and when Eric died I left that route and went false Polish - my friends were they ones that tried to save Eric but he was more or less dead when he got to their tent.
No criticism from me just empathy.
1:34 The Andes mountains were relocated to South Africa? How was this not a major news story?
The Andes are in South America.
I am surprised you never disclaim "stock images" in your videos
and see above someone mentioning they spot their cousin near Mont Blanc - and that is in Switzerland ....
Here's the lesson: never, ever underestimate the mountain. Many lives have already been lost on Mount Aconcagua.
Three go up, one comes down.
so they had a satellite phone and didn't use it until the day after - crazy decision...
They made a series of bad decisions.
The Andes are definitely not in South Africa dude
Right, I was just going to say that Ecuador isn't in South Africa either!
Sad ending 😢
What is the song in the intro?
I know you showed pictures. But you didn't specify which of those three people were the twins. 🤷🏿♂️
Greg and Eric were the twins
at least they had fun
They died doing what they loved.
@@bcamplite621tell that to their families. Dying for doing what you love while leaving your family to suffer is a mark of a true a hole.
Play stupid games win stupid prizes. Selfish, beyond belief.
@@dredgewalker they would have not place themself in such danger if they had a family that cared for them . and vise versa .....
@@MrUranium238 You're reaching. Most climbers are too selfish and some even dued while they had a a newborn kid.
They should have climbed the easy route. But decided to be big shots to there death
These random clips you're showing... Really bad 😞
Are you new to CZcams?
@@smoke3560 it's not even mentioned as "stock images". Really bad indeed. La médiocrité des autres n'est pas une excuse pour faire pareil.
I think he does the best he can with the available content at hand...
Every now and then there’s bits of your narration that just don’t make sense. “They were starting their climb in the last week of the year, so as you can imagine it was cold…”??? Aconcagua is in the Southern Hemisphere, so the end of December/January is actually one of the warmest times of year for that region. If you got rid of little filler phrases like “so as you can imagine…”, your stories would actually become more polished.
in addition to correct faults, see the comment of one eye witness etc.
That background music is super annoying
A trio. Was there sex involved?