Back in late 1968 while I was in the Navy my ship was homeport in Sasebo, Japan, the Navy Exchange store had the Teac A-4010S for $246. ( selling for over $450. in the states at the time, but neither way that amount of money back then was like $1800 or more today) few months later we were in Hong Kong and when I saw it for $226. I bought it ($20. savings was like $100. back then) upon discharge July 1969 bought it to the states after a year or so I sold it $250. Lately I still see these selling for over $400. on ebay! Myself I still over two or three dozen tapes of recorded 60s music that I wish could copy to digital format.
There is lots of info online for this deck. I think I mentioned in the video, but there's a professional repair guy whose channel (Jordan Pier) has a great step-by-step tutorial on unsticking the pinch roller. Anyway, Good luck an thanks for watching/commenting!
@@ACBMemphis I have the A-1500 and is an automatic reverse rtr but I found out that the "switch" where the foil goes over to set it to reverse play can also be actuated by pushing in the "switch" and it activates the reverse function with no need for putting foil on the tape does your "switch" does the same thing? Or is the "switch" fixed?
We had old wollensak tape decks in school and one day I recorded hawaii five o reel to reel in language lab....ii got a book em dani moment from the principal
Pops had one just like that which he brought back after his 2nd tour in Vietnam. All his reels had crazy things like peace symbols with "kill for peace" and crazy military shit drawn n written on them. Guess that's what happens when a 17 game old kid gets thrown into the shit he was in the middle of... Wish I still had all that stuff. Lots of memories hearing old-school music in it when I was a kid. Remember dad having to tap those rubber keepers on the reels as it played.
Not sure if your still replying, but do you know a solution to scrapping on the reel face wheel? My right one seems fine but the left is scraping as if its loose. I looked and looks like the right one is slightly higher than the left. Im thinking of just adding more spacers but im not sure.
First, I would make sure the metal faceplate for the whole front is down all the way, it can hang on the capstan area. But yes it seems like more spacers would be a good thing to try. My left and right reels had a different number of spacers I marked them when I took them off. Or maybe cut up an old credit card or something to add extra space. Thanks for watching!
I have one of these that has the same problem as one you described 3 years ago on a different website: Reels slow to a stop after 2-3 minutes. I did have to reaffix a loose brake pad, but that didn't affect this problem. Did you ever find a solution for that and, if you did, what was it? Thanks!
@@ACBMemphis Coming back again. Where is this capacitor located? Is it within that silver motor canister that you show in the video or is it somewhere else? Also, is this a standard replacement capacitor? Where did you purchase yours? I'm am not electrically savvy, but I do have my unit all opened up as yours was in the video. Thanks again!
@@suej44 If I recall correctly, it was tacked across one of the larger capacitors. I bought the replacement capacitors from digikey.com. The bad capacitor in my case said "300WV 5uF" and I believe this is the part number I used to replace it: P12269-ND it is $1.74.
Replacing the capacitors in this machine is tricky, especially the very large ones since they are actually multiple capacitors. I had to buy multiple capacitors from DigiKey and tape them together into a package. The remaining part numbers from the order were (2) of 1572-1534-ND, (4) of 399-12838-ND, (1) of 1572-1528-ND, and (10) of 1572-1260-ND. The last part number is for the many "Suzuki bomb" capacitors on all the switches. Here is the forum posting where I got some help from tapeheads.net: www.tapeheads.net/showthread.php?s=a38f54be21a6ccd24ae3da4add5d91c1&t=76056&page=2
@@ACBMemphis Thank you, again. Hopeful I can where it is and that the replacement will go as smoothly as yours. Hopeful part numbers haven't changed in the last few years, too! Many thanks....
Yes, surely someone on that set would have known how to use a reel to reel tape.... I wonder if the wind through the open helicopter was messing it up and they had to do it this way. Thanks for watching!
Back in late 1968 while I was in the Navy my ship was homeport in Sasebo, Japan, the Navy Exchange store had the Teac A-4010S for $246. ( selling for over $450. in the states at the time, but neither way that amount of money back then was like $1800 or more today) few months later we were in Hong Kong and when I saw it for $226. I bought it ($20. savings was like $100. back then) upon discharge July 1969 bought it to the states after a year or so I sold it $250. Lately I still see these selling for over $400. on ebay! Myself I still over two or three dozen tapes of recorded 60s music that I wish could copy to digital format.
Great video. I have the same deck. This is a good reference if I ever need to do some repairs. 👍
cool deck! just found one at a thrift shop..... looking forward to the restoration 👍
There is lots of info online for this deck. I think I mentioned in the video, but there's a professional repair guy whose channel (Jordan Pier) has a great step-by-step tutorial on unsticking the pinch roller. Anyway, Good luck an thanks for watching/commenting!
@@ACBMemphis I have the A-1500 and is an automatic reverse rtr but I found out that the "switch" where the foil goes over to set it to reverse play can also be actuated by pushing in the "switch" and it activates the reverse function with no need for putting foil on the tape does your "switch" does the same thing? Or is the "switch" fixed?
@@ACBMemphis Jordan pier lives and works in San Diego CA. I have taken one of my decks to his shop for repairs.
@@ACBMemphis You had an excellent assitant😊👍
@@SDsailor7 Thanks, I think so too! My reverse switch appears to be fixed does not move in when pressed...
Slow motor can be capacitor going bad. Heat can be indicator.
We had old wollensak tape decks in school and one day I recorded hawaii five o reel to reel in language lab....ii got a book em dani moment from the principal
Pops had one just like that which he brought back after his 2nd tour in Vietnam. All his reels had crazy things like peace symbols with "kill for peace" and crazy military shit drawn n written on them. Guess that's what happens when a 17 game old kid gets thrown into the shit he was in the middle of... Wish I still had all that stuff. Lots of memories hearing old-school music in it when I was a kid. Remember dad having to tap those rubber keepers on the reels as it played.
I have a TEAC 1040 and currently only get a hissing sound in the play mode. Manual says check S2 switch. Any suggestions?
Can you listen thru the playback head while recording with this unit? great vid btw
Thanks! Yes, this is a 3 head deck you can monitor the tape during recording.
Not sure if your still replying, but do you know a solution to scrapping on the reel face wheel? My right one seems fine but the left is scraping as if its loose. I looked and looks like the right one is slightly higher than the left. Im thinking of just adding more spacers but im not sure.
First, I would make sure the metal faceplate for the whole front is down all the way, it can hang on the capstan area. But yes it seems like more spacers would be a good thing to try. My left and right reels had a different number of spacers I marked them when I took them off. Or maybe cut up an old credit card or something to add extra space. Thanks for watching!
@@ACBMemphis wow thanks for the quick response! I’ll give that a shot thanks
Cool
I have one of these that has the same problem as one you described 3 years ago on a different website: Reels slow to a stop after 2-3 minutes. I did have to reaffix a loose brake pad, but that didn't affect this problem. Did you ever find a solution for that and, if you did, what was it? Thanks!
Yes it was a capacitor on the main motor. I posted a picture of it on the forum and in a follow up video here: czcams.com/video/I-kMTOqFTq4/video.html
@@ACBMemphis Coming back again. Where is this capacitor located? Is it within that silver motor canister that you show in the video or is it somewhere else? Also, is this a standard replacement capacitor? Where did you purchase yours? I'm am not electrically savvy, but I do have my unit all opened up as yours was in the video. Thanks again!
@@suej44 If I recall correctly, it was tacked across one of the larger capacitors. I bought the replacement capacitors from digikey.com. The bad capacitor in my case said "300WV 5uF" and I believe this is the part number I used to replace it: P12269-ND it is $1.74.
Replacing the capacitors in this machine is tricky, especially the very large ones since they are actually multiple capacitors. I had to buy multiple capacitors from DigiKey and tape them together into a package. The remaining part numbers from the order were (2) of 1572-1534-ND, (4) of 399-12838-ND, (1) of 1572-1528-ND, and (10) of 1572-1260-ND. The last part number is for the many "Suzuki bomb" capacitors on all the switches. Here is the forum posting where I got some help from tapeheads.net: www.tapeheads.net/showthread.php?s=a38f54be21a6ccd24ae3da4add5d91c1&t=76056&page=2
@@ACBMemphis Thank you, again. Hopeful I can where it is and that the replacement will go as smoothly as yours. Hopeful part numbers haven't changed in the last few years, too! Many thanks....
I got one
Yeah, that's an M7 all right - first time I've noticed the tape path is WRONG - THE TAPE DOES NOT PASS OVER THE HEADS!!!!!!!!!! FAIL!
0:47 Strange they didn't know how to thread the tape.
Yes, surely someone on that set would have known how to use a reel to reel tape.... I wonder if the wind through the open helicopter was messing it up and they had to do it this way. Thanks for watching!