How to Calibrate Your Laser Cutter Using LightBurn
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- In this episode, I share how I learned my laser cutter needed calibration, and how I did it in LightBurn. I show techniques for minimizing measurement error. I also share a mistake I made, and how I recovered from it.
The bottom line: calibration using LightBurn is simple to do, and forgiving. If you make a mistake, like I did, you can recover from it easily. Calibration is an important skill for every laser cutter user to have, as it gives you the accuracy you expect from your marvelous machine!!
you are great thanks really needed this
Thanks, x player, I'm really glad it was helpful!!
I love when you share your mistakes.
Randolph, I always love hearing from you!
This is a really informative video. Showing your mistakes indefinitely helpful too!
Lord Kandar, it is really good to know that it is helpful. I suspect some fellow content creators would think I'm crazy for doing it. We're supposed to be 'experts'!
Thank you for this video, I didn't know that it was this easy, and worthwhile doing.
I liked the pace at which covered your information, very easy to keep up with, well done.
One point that I noticed, with your very first entry into the calibrate dialog, you clicked and dragged right to left, if you do this you can enter all the data like you expected ***.*** in one go, but if you click, or double click on either side of the decimal point, only that part is editable.
So click and drag over the old data to select all of it, type in all the new data before, after, and including the decimal point.
Hope you find this helpful.
Thank you, Terry. Boy, are you observant!! You are exactly right, I noticed this too while rewatching. That is definitely the right way to go and I just need to be more careful when I'm selecting it.
Yes, I was pleasantly surprised at how straightforward this process is. LightBurn is really amazing and well worth the money. So much better than the RDWorks I used to use! Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
I’ll be giving that a go, thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks, Stephen, I'm glad this was helpful!
You are super impressive and you also showed your mistakes which is good because it's showing that not everything is perfect and you also just so good at what you do and I know this helped some people out keep up the good work your amazing!!!😁
Robbie, you always leave the nicest comments! Thank you, you made my day!!
Thanks a lot I seam to going from one problem to an other, that's one ticked off
I'm glad it was helpful. Hopefully there aren't too many other problems!
So smart! I can relate to getting flustered.
Thanks, CHaTmPS, I have such nice viewers! I'm happy to share my screwups if it helps others avoid my mistakes, and usually it is appreciated. Thanks for your support!!
Great info. Thank you. 👍🏻
As always, Ron, thank you!!
Thank you, it helped me a lot
I'm so glad! Thanks for letting me know!!
Love it!
Thank you, Home Cooking!
I just did this. It worked great for rectangles. Circles are 1mm too small.
Hmmm, I didn't check a circle. Do you mean one dimension of the circle is smaller than the other? Is it the x or the y?
@@GreylightMay Both x and y were both off by 1mm. Other than that, they appeared to be equal. I used a 100mm circle and the circle was about 99mm, maybe a little less. Kind of hard to measure a circle though. Might have to ingrave a horizontal and vertical line to be more precise.
Yes, that is odd because you would think that if you did a square and it was accurate, a circle engraved inside the square would be accurate as well. I would try cutting a square and vector engraving a circle with the same x/y dimensions and a shared center point. If the circle is smaller then I would ask the laser cutter's manufacturer why, because it wouldn't seem to be a calibration problem at that point. Very mysterious!
Very good video! Last night I was calibrating my laser to tighten finger joints by setting the kerf offset. I got them to the exact tightness I was looking for. Then I measured the width of the fingers they were different from what they should have been but they where tight. That is when I remembered the axis calibration so I started that process, (the tip you gave about the field to the right of decimal point hit home😁 for me.) after that I started to cut a new finger joint test and in the preview window the finger joints were rounded off instead being square. What did I learn? Calibrate machine axis fist. Then dial in kerf offset.
Hey I have three times the experience of most people, because that is how many times I have do something to get it right.
Thank you! Your video helped me.😁🛫
Driver, this is a great story, thank you! I haven't done anything with the kerf yet because the default has worked for the kinds of things I make. I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I run into a project where I want a tighter fit. This will help me remember to calibrate the axes first! As for doing things three times, that sounds like a normal day to me. That's why I show mistakes, rework, and design iterations. It's really important that people not lose confidence when they have to do things over. That is the essence of learning, isn't it?
@@GreylightMay i absolutely agree! 😁🛫
Just a heads up to anyone else out there with an xTool; they have the controller locked down so you can't edit these settings.
Thanks for the info, Mudchop!
What firmware you use i use smoothy ware and machine settings isnt avslible and anything else just freezes my machine using lightburn and cohesion 3d board
Jim, I have whatever OmTech uses, it may even be proprietary for them, I'm not sure. Have you tried to contact your manufacturer to ask for their assistance?
Hope you can help me ? I am new to all this and made a massive mistake of messing about with settings I don't know.i messed about with the calibration settings and for the life of me, I can't get it back right . My daja dj7 will either move a mm or so to far off the x y axis. I've done what you did in your video but it's still reading it wrong. My work space is 1600sq. On the x axis I managed to it it close to 1600mm but can't get it anywhere near 0. It either close or no where near. And with it written the new info the my cutter I can't ubdo a massive mistake. Thanks
I'm so sorry you are having this problem! I'm not at all an expert in using LightBurn, so I can't tell from your note what is going on. I do believe, though, that you can use LightBurn to reset to default or factory settings. I've not done it, so I can't tell you how, but you could search for videos that tell you how. I would watch several, see if they agree, and not touch anything until you are confident to proceed. If you have a technically inclined friend, ask them to help by watching the best video with you and be a second pair of eyes while you execute the instructions. It is hard to do this sort of thing when you are nervous, I know!! Your other alternative is to reach out to the support department for your laser cutter. Good luck! Please let me know how you fix it (which I know you will), it might help me help someone else in the future.
The same hapoend to me on Atomstack A70 .... just block and work on area 100 x 100 mm ( my area is 850 x800 mm) and move very very slow .... fortunatly one guy from Atomstack group said me how to reset machine
Did you ever get this fixed? Please let me know what happened!
@@GreylightMay i restart laser on factory setting and now is ok 😊
@@aleksanderpepelko6778 Excellent!! Thanks for letting me know!
This seem so simple, I mad a mess out of my s30 . Every thing is going wrong
That's terrible! Here is a link I found with a video about how to restore your settings:
czcams.com/video/5B-9wPY84So/video.html
I can't vouch for it, but it is from LightBurn so it should be legit. Let me know if it helped!