Very elegant! I was researching a DIY small retainer wall with wood sleepers and stumbled on your work, now can't stop watching your cheerful workmanship crew. Keep on keeping on! Greetings from Sweden.
Another awesome project in the books, you know you did a great job when the customer wants another large project from you... Congrats man.... looks great!!!!!
Damn it erased my comment, i gave u and benny an A+ u guys take pride and thats why yur prices are high, because when u tell some something, u back it up. You are good abd reliable, u have the equipment now to do anything. I wana talk to u on a live. I wana know about yur channel name how u came up w it, what it means to u. And yur support group. Who taught u about business and youtube in general. U r killing it bro, congratulations on yur recent success. U called it. 1 more year and we both get silver play buttons and and a check mark on our name!!! Also favorite scripture and why?
Thanks man, we do focus on the quality over everything, that machine will help me big time with that. I would be down for a live chat someday, that would be pretty cool for sure! Thanks for the support of my channel too man, you are killing it too. Those shorts have me rolling 🤣 And I always enjoy the long form whenever you get the chance. You will be getting that play button much earlier than me, make sure you let me know how it feels... 🤣 I would have to think about the favorite verse, so many to choose from...
beautiful work. love working with granite. Steps look Mint. Doing a whitestar granite wet lay at the moment around a pool. You can definitly point the joints several days or even weeks later as long as you use a bonding agent in with you mix your type s mortar and wet the joint beforehand. never had any joints crack with bonding agent and type s combo.
Thank you, I love working with granite too man! And that job sounds like it is pretty sweet! I hear you with the bonding agent and in a large application like that it may make more sense for sure. But on small applications like this, It is always best to point at the same time. Thanks for the feedback brother ✌
Another great job guys! Happy 4th of July! Great to see a shot of old glory waving in the background 🇺🇲 The attention to detail you gentlemen put into your work is rock solid and inspiring! 🤠
When I'm outside working on my yard projects. I cant help but think. " Sure would be nice to have a life size cardboard cut out of Benny standing near by." Smiling, of course! 😉
@@TheChristianHardscaper No problem bro sorry I fell off! It’s been really busy! I’m doing great hope you are too buddy! Great work as always you and Benny are killing it!!!!!
Excellent work, again. I like to back butter the treads and tiles with the mortar just prior to setting them down, especially if it is hot and dry, to ensure that they stick. I just trowel it on and scrape most of it off with a wet mix, then set it on the bed. I am fond of the pillows of mortar or large dollops too. I try to get about 80% to 90% coverage, not less and not 100% to allow proper setting.
Thank you, I have seen a few guys do that. Back buttering will only help for sure. You hit the nail on the head with not having 100% coverage. That is when they pop off because there is nowhere for the moisture to go.... I appreciate all the feedback brother, God Bless! ✌
I've been cutting all my block on a table saw or miter saw with no water and that wasn't much fun. Lots of dust plus hard on the tools. I have a 10 inch grinder now but just need to figure out the water because I'll be cutting clay pavers on my next job. I'm more of a general builder but just happen to be doing some hardscape projects lately. Your videos are definitely helping me out.
Hey, at least you are making it happen. But I hear you that it is not the best way. I love my Cut off saw, I use it for basically all my cutting. They are not cheap though, that is for sure... ✌
That chisel could be sharpened by anyone who sharpens tools will need to be diamond ground the only thing that will grind carbide, great job as always. Smile Benny
Love the sound the ABC makes. Chip,chip 😁. It would be easier if you invest in a mortar gun. It’s like a sealant gun that allows you to put the mortar in. And then you Ouse it out into the joints.
Awesome playlist! Just got done with your videos on the stone Veneer steps, Great videos extremely helpful. I was Wondering do you have any recommended videos that show you tying in pavers to the bottom of similar steps.
Good work, very nice. Note: not sure about bond integrity because the lack of skim coat on surfaces and mortor a bit to dry for excellent "bond absortion". Tks
Those stone faces vs Form liners for concrete.. We need to do a video or a short on that. Yurs look amazing. Mine look decent too. Type s motar is no joke. Whope job looks great bro. Also i would love to see a WILD CARD video. I got 1 coming. Its crazy. Im going to try to beat Joey Chestnut's Nathans hot dog eating record. "Attempting to beat Joey Chestnuts Hot Dog Eating, World Record" 77 in 10 mins. All u gota do is eat and keep eating the whole time faster than him. Concrete guys have to scarf food down. In prison u gota scarf food down. He only got 62 this year, so im really shooting for 63, in 10 mins. Get josh and my dad in the video to make it funny and maybe have josh try to beat him too. Anyways a good exciting wild card video is a good way to get new viewers, but something only used every now and again. Its time 😂😂l😂😂. 77 hot dogs later lol😮
That would be a cool video to compare those, I like the look those liners give without a doubt. I would love to see you break that record, it would be hilarious! 🤣🤣✌
🤣 That's funny because I actually got called out for doing a 4 way in the pattern stock on another step project that I did. Unfortunately I had to on that because the supplier was really low on stock and I had to but 4 squares for the landing...LOL ✌
First, I want to say thank you for your videos. They help a lot. So I just went to a local landscaping material company to get clear crushed #57 for an open graded steps and raised patio. And what they brought me had a lot of fines in it. Lots of breeze material and pea gravel sized material in it. Very disappointed. I take it i can’t use this for open grade. Should I have them come get the stuff and talk to them more about what exactly I’m looking for.
No problem at all, I'm sorry that happened to you. They don't call it #57 stone up here, but many people have told me that is what its called in their area... They also tell me that it is more dusty than the stone I use. My only conclusion would be that they do not wash it as much as the suppliers up in my area. But from what I know about #57 stone is that it should have minimal dust / sand, so I'm not sure if you got the right stuff or not. Does it look like road base / dense grade? Is it more like gravel than clean stone? Maybe you can email me a picture of it... (TheChristianHardscaper@gmail.com)
@@roberto.gallegos Hey there, I actually just took a look at the email you sent. It does seem to have more fine particles than I am used to for clean crushed stone.... With that being said, You can still use it, it won't be as permeable as a cleaner crushed stone but it does seem to be good enough for a base material.
Looking to diy my own paver walkway up here in ND, wondering what you calculation you use for how much 3/4” and 1/4” base stone you need. Keep up the great work! Prob binge watched at least 100 videos since I discovered your channel about 2 weeks ago lol!
Nice, thanks for the support! I calculate based on cubic yards. To find the amount cubic yards needed, you do length x width = Sq Ft x depth = cubic ft. That needs to be divided by 27 (27 is how many cubic feet in a cubic yard). Let's say you are planning on 6 inches of base stone... 20 ft x 25 ft = 500 sq ft x .5 (that represents 1/2 a foot of base stone) = 250. 250 divided by 27 = 9.25 cubic yards needed. I hope that makes sense for you✌
Fantastic as usual. My preference would be to add some gray tint to the type S mortar on the landing so the grout lines blended more with the granite 32:50, especially where back of tread meets the stone veneer. Curious if it's necessary to go back and seal the grout and or granite after curing? I could watch these all day. Keep them coming!
Thank you, and I hear you about the grey tint. Not a bad idea at all. You do not have to seal the granite and mortar but you certainly can if you want to.
Thanks man! And I understand why you may think that but we don't do that because then you would have to buy deeper treads... If you put the veneer on top of the granite, it will shrink the step depth down and make a very skinny step. We always veneer 1st and lay the cap in front of it, then point the joint with Type S mortar. ✌
What’s up brother. Do you always use 8 inch block? Wouldn’t the risers be a bit high. I mostly do brick Veneer steps. So what I do is lay the brick first and then I lay the block to the height. But never laid block out first. I have a stone veneer job that I’m starting and was wondering if I could get away with just laying 8 inch all the way around like you did. Thanks bro God bless
Hey brother, I don't always use 8 inch but in this situation it was better than 3 - 6 inch steps. saved time and money for the customer. They very rarely use the front door, this was mainly for aesthetics. But I do always install my block work first and fit the veneer to the blocks. These panels are designed to fit an 8 inch block perfectly, another reason why I used it. ✌
Hi Kyle, your videos are great and helpful slowIy I'm being inspired by you to start my patio project.... I was wondering if I asked. You a few questions how you tackle my project. I am planning to install a patio about 30ft wide x20 foot wide...now the home is raised by fill and I need to raise the backyard by 3 feet. I will probably need about 3-4 dump trucks of fill dirt. I want to install two stairs on each side how you you tackle this would you build the retaining wall first then fill? Would you build drains on the floor since it's going to be a lot of water or would you slope the down the sides with center being more raised? The retaining walls would also be raised higher to create a patch to plant small plants/bushes. Anyhow thank you if you respond
Hey man, I'm glad the videos have been helpful! That sounds like a sweet project. So I would probably dig the wall trench 1st, that way you can take all that fill and put it inside the patio area to help bring it to height. But I would leave a section of one side not dug so you can get in and out of the area with material. Then you can start building the wall in the corner that is farthest away from your access point. As you build the wall you can backfill it and prep for the patio as you go, working your way back to the access point. Then when you get close to that point, you can finish the wall and then match the pavers to it also. And if you are making a raised bed, I recommend leaving a 3-4 inch gap in between the block and pavers in the low spot so surface water can drain down into the walls backfill stone and then out the gapes of the wall for proper drainage. I hope that makes sense... Good luck and thanks for the support of the channel! ✌
Very pretty brother! (the steps--i mean--dont get a big head!! lolololol) The only thing I do is when I have a bigger overhang, is cut a slot on the bottom of the overhanging step to break the surface tension of the water. That way it stops water from wrapping back under the step to create a forced drip area to avoid the water going back to the veneer. Just stop like an inch from the ends so it cant be seen from the side. (thats something from the water feature build industry) I dont think you have the overhang for that here. Maybe someone else can use the tip.. PS Do you sell your shirts? Id like to rep one down here!! Great vids my man. Look forward to you rippin up some stuff with the new skid!!!
🤣 Thanks brother!! And may I say, that is an extremely good tip. I never knew or thought about something like that before, but I completely understand what you mean. Thanks a lot for that feedback, I always appreciate it. And I hope to get to a point where I can sell some gear, I got a few ideas for shirts that I would love to put out there. I need to put in another shirt order within a month or 2 though, maybe I can get an extra for you when I do. What size? And I have been using the new skid and I love it. So happy with my choice. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Me giving u a tip is like the grasshopper to the sensai lol... I learn a ton from your vids even though I been doing construction stuff for years! I would think XL would be great!!! Thanks! Look forward to it!
I know from all the comments you give that you have a lot of understanding in the construction industry. Thank you again for the continued support and comments.
I am doing the same project now with the New England stone veneer and blue mist granite treads. Due to the irregularity of the stone veneer I am noticing a gap between the back of the tread and the riser section of stone veneer. Are you just pointing that joint with type S mortar? Trying to figure out how to make that look decent as in some places that gap is 1/2 wide. Thanks!
Is the blue mist pattern stock thinner than the sides/treads? Looks like the treads are 2" but the pattern stock looks thinner. It looks like you filled underneath those with more mortar but maybe I am just seeing things. Anyways great job, I am taking on this exact project myself for the 1st time.
Yes it is, the treads are 2" and the pattern stock is about 1-1/4". We set the treads first and then lift the pattern stock to height with Type S Mortar. Good luck with your project! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thank you! Is there a reason you couldn't use the 2" for the fill other than cost? My fill pieces may be rather small so I might have enough left over to use 2". Also would you recommend using a bonding agent on an old concrete step which was previously layered with brick (brick removed and mortar cleaned off)? Appreciate your time!
Hello I have a question about granite slab weight near a house foundation. I live in the Northeast and need to replace the landing platform that is currently at my front door. It is currently 4' x 6' foot, built of concrete & red brick, and some masons have suggested to replace it with a 4' x 6' solid granite slab of about 8 inches in height. I am concerned about the sheer weight of this size granite slab. I've spoken with four different hardscaping professionals-- 2 advocated for it, and the other 2 said "Oh you don't want to do that-- it's too much weight near the house foundation". I don't know who to believe, or where to go for an unbiased answer. Could you offer some thoughts?
Hey there, I work in Massachusetts and there is nothing wrong with granite slab steps. They are actually lighter than a solid block, mortar and brick staircase if backfilled. With granite slabs, they will use skinny pieces on the sides to hold the steps and platforms with the center being left hollow. So as long as you have a strong 4-6 inch concrete footing to build them on, you will be just fine with granite slabs. Plus they look mint, I have done several sets of them with 3 different types of granite. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thank you so much for your reply-- Please allow me to clarify that my concern is about the weight of a solid, monolith slab of granite (8" x 48" x 72") that they would use a machine to position into place in front of my threshold-- likely on top of a concrete pad as you mention. Would you be concerned about the weight of a solid granite slab that size so close to the house foundation?
What would you do cut the vinyl siding? Cutting the granite for these guys is no big deal and he gets the size he needs. These guys do amazing work, perfection.
@@darcyscott2406 no need to cut the siding as the siding is not sticking out in his case. if the siding is sticking out you put an Azak where the wood is and you have room. I have don’t hundreds of these
The way that I see it, that is not extra work. That is what it took to do a quality job. I know most guys put quality like that on the back burner behind speed and efficiency but I don't like to. We built the steps to the exact width of the front entrance. A full 6' stoop would hang past the edge of the kickboard and the siding. And like what @darcyscott2406 said, do you think cutting the siding is a better option? Because the option you gave is not an option in my opinion. I would never just slap a longer piece of Azak to cover the gap, that would look kind of silly in my opinion. Quality is in the details, cutting and rock facing treads to the exact size of the entrance is one of those details. I don't sacrifice things like that to save time and make an extra buck or 2. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper it’s not about about money because reality is you are spending time with extra block/gravel/mortar to fill the 3-4 inches you cut off. they come factory cut to specific length so you don’t mess around with cutting them. siding wasn’t sticking so no need to cut siding either way. You could do it both ways it’s just give the customer a bit more landing so if they decide to add railing they have more room.
I know what you mean for sure, but at that point you would be building the steps in front of the siding. I'm not too sure about that, in a visual stand point.
Very elegant! I was researching a DIY small retainer wall with wood sleepers and stumbled on your work, now can't stop watching your cheerful workmanship crew. Keep on keeping on! Greetings from Sweden.
That's awesome! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. God Bless! ✌
Another awesome project in the books, you know you did a great job when the customer wants another large project from you... Congrats man.... looks great!!!!!
Thanks as always brother! I am really looking forward to that wall project ✌
It’s beautiful and you made the value of the house go up.
Thank you, and the home value definitely went up! ✌
Nice job. Great video, very informative. Thanks.
Glad to hear it, thanks for the feedback!
Damn it erased my comment, i gave u and benny an A+ u guys take pride and thats why yur prices are high, because when u tell some something, u back it up. You are good abd reliable, u have the equipment now to do anything. I wana talk to u on a live. I wana know about yur channel name how u came up w it, what it means to u. And yur support group. Who taught u about business and youtube in general. U r killing it bro, congratulations on yur recent success. U called it. 1 more year and we both get silver play buttons and and a check mark on our name!!! Also favorite scripture and why?
Thanks man, we do focus on the quality over everything, that machine will help me big time with that. I would be down for a live chat someday, that would be pretty cool for sure! Thanks for the support of my channel too man, you are killing it too. Those shorts have me rolling 🤣 And I always enjoy the long form whenever you get the chance. You will be getting that play button much earlier than me, make sure you let me know how it feels... 🤣 I would have to think about the favorite verse, so many to choose from...
Amazing workmanship! Absolutely stunning ❤
Thank you, I appreciate it! ✌
Watching from the Philippines! This project is amazing!
Nice, thank you!
You are the man brother.👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks brother! ✌
Nice job rock facing the granite treads! Job looks on point 💯 using a charcoal mortar dye for the tuck pointing would be a nice touch
Thank you! A charcoal joint would look pretty damn sweet.... ✌
Just came across your stuff. Looks amazing and very easy and pleasant to watch. Love it
Glad to hear it, I enjoy both doing the work and making the videos. It has been a fun journey so far! ✌
beautiful work. love working with granite. Steps look Mint. Doing a whitestar granite wet lay at the moment around a pool. You can definitly point the joints several days or even weeks later as long as you use a bonding agent in with you mix your type s mortar and wet the joint beforehand. never had any joints crack with bonding agent and type s combo.
Thank you, I love working with granite too man! And that job sounds like it is pretty sweet! I hear you with the bonding agent and in a large application like that it may make more sense for sure. But on small applications like this, It is always best to point at the same time. Thanks for the feedback brother ✌
Another great job guys! Happy 4th of July! Great to see a shot of old glory waving in the background 🇺🇲
The attention to detail you gentlemen put into your work is rock solid and inspiring! 🤠
Thank you, that was a nice clip with the flag waving. Thanks for the feedback!
When I'm outside working on my yard projects. I cant help but think. " Sure would be nice to have a life size cardboard cut out of Benny standing near by." Smiling, of course! 😉
🤣 That would be a great thing to sell... A bunch of Benny cardboard cut outs! LOL all different poses.... 🤣✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper or Benny on a hoodie 🤔
@@Bman-1970 That would be cool too 👌
I been doing this work recently. Just fate I guess threw me into it. You got a subscriber
That's cool, I love everything about this work and always have. I can't imagine doing anything else... LOL Good luck with your future projects✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks my guy!
Rock face better than the store 👍🏼
Thanks! ✌
Been following this job. Looks awesome brother! Great job as always Kyle! Much respect bro
Thanks brother, I always appreciate your feedback! I hope all is well, God Bless! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper No problem bro sorry I fell off! It’s been really busy! I’m doing great hope you are too buddy! Great work as always you and Benny are killing it!!!!!
Excellent work, again.
I like to back butter the treads and tiles with the mortar just prior to setting them down, especially if it is hot and dry, to ensure that they stick. I just trowel it on and scrape most of it off with a wet mix, then set it on the bed. I am fond of the pillows of mortar or large dollops too. I try to get about 80% to 90% coverage, not less and not 100% to allow proper setting.
Thank you, I have seen a few guys do that. Back buttering will only help for sure. You hit the nail on the head with not having 100% coverage. That is when they pop off because there is nowhere for the moisture to go.... I appreciate all the feedback brother, God Bless! ✌
Verry Verry Nice job😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you very much! ✌
Beautiful work dude! Cheers
Thanks, brother! ✌
Watching from England, another great job.
Thank you very much!
I've been cutting all my block on a table saw or miter saw with no water and that wasn't much fun. Lots of dust plus hard on the tools. I have a 10 inch grinder now but just need to figure out the water because I'll be cutting clay pavers on my next job. I'm more of a general builder but just happen to be doing some hardscape projects lately. Your videos are definitely helping me out.
Hey, at least you are making it happen. But I hear you that it is not the best way. I love my Cut off saw, I use it for basically all my cutting. They are not cheap though, that is for sure... ✌
That chisel could be sharpened by anyone who sharpens tools will need to be diamond ground the only thing that will grind carbide, great job as always. Smile Benny
I knew someone would help me out with that... thank you very much for the information! ✌
Love the sound the ABC makes. Chip,chip 😁. It would be easier if you invest in a mortar gun. It’s like a sealant gun that allows you to put the mortar in. And then you Ouse it out into the joints.
Yea man, those hammers are awesome. I do want to get a nice mortar gun someday, I just want to make sure I buy the right one that will work good ✌
Awesome playlist! Just got done with your videos on the stone Veneer steps, Great videos extremely helpful. I was Wondering do you have any recommended videos that show you tying in pavers to the bottom of similar steps.
Thanks for the videos! Will definitely help!
Glad to hear it, no problem!
Good work, very nice. Note: not sure about bond integrity because the lack of skim coat on surfaces and mortor a bit to dry for excellent "bond absortion". Tks
I understand your concern but this method has worked good for me so far. That Ardex mortar is excellent 👌
Looks mint, the silicone and the mulch set it off, ro u onow what the difference between a good job wnd a great job? The clean up!
Thanks man, I totally agree. Leaving a property mint looking and clean as a whistle leaves the customer very happy and more likely to call you again.
Those stone faces vs Form liners for concrete.. We need to do a video or a short on that. Yurs look amazing. Mine look decent too. Type s motar is no joke. Whope job looks great bro. Also i would love to see a WILD CARD video. I got 1 coming. Its crazy. Im going to try to beat Joey Chestnut's Nathans hot dog eating record. "Attempting to beat Joey Chestnuts Hot Dog Eating, World Record" 77 in 10 mins. All u gota do is eat and keep eating the whole time faster than him. Concrete guys have to scarf food down. In prison u gota scarf food down. He only got 62 this year, so im really shooting for 63, in 10 mins. Get josh and my dad in the video to make it funny and maybe have josh try to beat him too. Anyways a good exciting wild card video is a good way to get new viewers, but something only used every now and again. Its time 😂😂l😂😂. 77 hot dogs later lol😮
That would be a cool video to compare those, I like the look those liners give without a doubt. I would love to see you break that record, it would be hilarious! 🤣🤣✌
Great work!
Thanks! ✌
No 4 ways, even on landings 😁
🤣 That's funny because I actually got called out for doing a 4 way in the pattern stock on another step project that I did. Unfortunately I had to on that because the supplier was really low on stock and I had to but 4 squares for the landing...LOL ✌
😁
First, I want to say thank you for your videos. They help a lot. So I just went to a local landscaping material company to get clear crushed #57 for an open graded steps and raised patio. And what they brought me had a lot of fines in it. Lots of breeze material and pea gravel sized material in it. Very disappointed. I take it i can’t use this for open grade. Should I have them come get the stuff and talk to them more about what exactly I’m looking for.
No problem at all, I'm sorry that happened to you. They don't call it #57 stone up here, but many people have told me that is what its called in their area... They also tell me that it is more dusty than the stone I use. My only conclusion would be that they do not wash it as much as the suppliers up in my area. But from what I know about #57 stone is that it should have minimal dust / sand, so I'm not sure if you got the right stuff or not. Does it look like road base / dense grade? Is it more like gravel than clean stone?
Maybe you can email me a picture of it... (TheChristianHardscaper@gmail.com)
@@TheChristianHardscaper I thought I sent you a message with the pics of the rocks. I just wanted to make sure it went through.
@@roberto.gallegos Hey there, I actually just took a look at the email you sent. It does seem to have more fine particles than I am used to for clean crushed stone.... With that being said, You can still use it, it won't be as permeable as a cleaner crushed stone but it does seem to be good enough for a base material.
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome. Thank you.
@@roberto.gallegos No problem ✌
Looking to diy my own paver walkway up here in ND, wondering what you calculation you use for how much 3/4” and 1/4” base stone you need. Keep up the great work! Prob binge watched at least 100 videos since I discovered your channel about 2 weeks ago lol!
Nice, thanks for the support!
I calculate based on cubic yards. To find the amount cubic yards needed, you do length x width = Sq Ft x depth = cubic ft. That needs to be divided by 27 (27 is how many cubic feet in a cubic yard). Let's say you are planning on 6 inches of base stone... 20 ft x 25 ft = 500 sq ft x .5 (that represents 1/2 a foot of base stone) = 250. 250 divided by 27 = 9.25 cubic yards needed. I hope that makes sense for you✌
Fantastic as usual. My preference would be to add some gray tint to the type S mortar on the landing so the grout lines blended more with the granite 32:50, especially where back of tread meets the stone veneer. Curious if it's necessary to go back and seal the grout and or granite after curing? I could watch these all day. Keep them coming!
Thank you, and I hear you about the grey tint. Not a bad idea at all. You do not have to seal the granite and mortar but you certainly can if you want to.
Maybe a grey coloured silicone to match the granite steps
That was actually clear silicone, goes on white but dries clear. Grey would have looked good to though. ✌
Really nice work as always! Just wondering for the first step shouldn't the stone vaneer be over top of the tread? Again looks mint!
Thanks man! And I understand why you may think that but we don't do that because then you would have to buy deeper treads... If you put the veneer on top of the granite, it will shrink the step depth down and make a very skinny step. We always veneer 1st and lay the cap in front of it, then point the joint with Type S mortar. ✌
What’s up brother. Do you always use 8 inch block? Wouldn’t the risers be a bit high. I mostly do brick Veneer steps. So what I do is lay the brick first and then I lay the block to the height. But never laid block out first. I have a stone veneer job that I’m starting and was wondering if I could get away with just laying 8 inch all the way around like you did. Thanks bro God bless
Hey brother, I don't always use 8 inch but in this situation it was better than 3 - 6 inch steps. saved time and money for the customer. They very rarely use the front door, this was mainly for aesthetics. But I do always install my block work first and fit the veneer to the blocks. These panels are designed to fit an 8 inch block perfectly, another reason why I used it. ✌
👍
Hi Kyle, your videos are great and helpful slowIy I'm being inspired by you to start my patio project....
I was wondering if I asked. You a few questions how you tackle my project.
I am planning to install a patio about 30ft wide x20 foot wide...now the home is raised by fill and I need to raise the backyard by 3 feet. I will probably need about 3-4 dump trucks of fill dirt.
I want to install two stairs on each side how you you tackle this would you build the retaining wall first then fill? Would you build drains on the floor since it's going to be a lot of water or would you slope the down the sides with center being more raised?
The retaining walls would also be raised higher to create a patch to plant small plants/bushes. Anyhow thank you if you respond
Hey man, I'm glad the videos have been helpful! That sounds like a sweet project. So I would probably dig the wall trench 1st, that way you can take all that fill and put it inside the patio area to help bring it to height. But I would leave a section of one side not dug so you can get in and out of the area with material. Then you can start building the wall in the corner that is farthest away from your access point. As you build the wall you can backfill it and prep for the patio as you go, working your way back to the access point. Then when you get close to that point, you can finish the wall and then match the pavers to it also. And if you are making a raised bed, I recommend leaving a 3-4 inch gap in between the block and pavers in the low spot so surface water can drain down into the walls backfill stone and then out the gapes of the wall for proper drainage. I hope that makes sense... Good luck and thanks for the support of the channel! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome very helpful....hope it comes out sweet
Eventually I'll add a outdoor kitchen fireplace and a hut
Very pretty brother! (the steps--i mean--dont get a big head!! lolololol) The only thing I do is when I have a bigger overhang, is cut a slot on the bottom of the overhanging step to break the surface tension of the water. That way it stops water from wrapping back under the step to create a forced drip area to avoid the water going back to the veneer. Just stop like an inch from the ends so it cant be seen from the side. (thats something from the water feature build industry) I dont think you have the overhang for that here. Maybe someone else can use the tip..
PS Do you sell your shirts? Id like to rep one down here!! Great vids my man. Look forward to you rippin up some stuff with the new skid!!!
🤣 Thanks brother!! And may I say, that is an extremely good tip. I never knew or thought about something like that before, but I completely understand what you mean. Thanks a lot for that feedback, I always appreciate it. And I hope to get to a point where I can sell some gear, I got a few ideas for shirts that I would love to put out there. I need to put in another shirt order within a month or 2 though, maybe I can get an extra for you when I do. What size? And I have been using the new skid and I love it. So happy with my choice. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Me giving u a tip is like the grasshopper to the sensai lol... I learn a ton from your vids even though I been doing construction stuff for years! I would think XL would be great!!! Thanks! Look forward to it!
I know from all the comments you give that you have a lot of understanding in the construction industry. Thank you again for the continued support and comments.
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks brother. I just try to do the best job possible. Ur channel is great happy to have found it!!
I am doing the same project now with the New England stone veneer and blue mist granite treads. Due to the irregularity of the stone veneer I am noticing a gap between the back of the tread and the riser section of stone veneer. Are you just pointing that joint with type S mortar? Trying to figure out how to make that look decent as in some places that gap is 1/2 wide. Thanks!
Yes, that is a common issue with these panels. Just point it with mortar and you will be all set ✌
What type of silicone do you use between the house and the top tread?
Is the blue mist pattern stock thinner than the sides/treads? Looks like the treads are 2" but the pattern stock looks thinner. It looks like you filled underneath those with more mortar but maybe I am just seeing things. Anyways great job, I am taking on this exact project myself for the 1st time.
Yes it is, the treads are 2" and the pattern stock is about 1-1/4". We set the treads first and then lift the pattern stock to height with Type S Mortar. Good luck with your project! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thank you! Is there a reason you couldn't use the 2" for the fill other than cost? My fill pieces may be rather small so I might have enough left over to use 2". Also would you recommend using a bonding agent on an old concrete step which was previously layered with brick (brick removed and mortar cleaned off)? Appreciate your time!
Have you sealed stones?
I haven't, don't mess with sealers much... They can cause problems when not done right. ✌
Hello I have a question about granite slab weight near a house foundation. I live in the Northeast and need to replace the landing platform that is currently at my front door. It is currently 4' x 6' foot, built of concrete & red brick, and some masons have suggested to replace it with a 4' x 6' solid granite slab of about 8 inches in height. I am concerned about the sheer weight of this size granite slab. I've spoken with four different hardscaping professionals-- 2 advocated for it, and the other 2 said "Oh you don't want to do that-- it's too much weight near the house foundation". I don't know who to believe, or where to go for an unbiased answer. Could you offer some thoughts?
Hey there, I work in Massachusetts and there is nothing wrong with granite slab steps. They are actually lighter than a solid block, mortar and brick staircase if backfilled. With granite slabs, they will use skinny pieces on the sides to hold the steps and platforms with the center being left hollow. So as long as you have a strong 4-6 inch concrete footing to build them on, you will be just fine with granite slabs. Plus they look mint, I have done several sets of them with 3 different types of granite. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thank you so much for your reply-- Please allow me to clarify that my concern is about the weight of a solid, monolith slab of granite (8" x 48" x 72") that they would use a machine to position into place in front of my threshold-- likely on top of a concrete pad as you mention. Would you be concerned about the weight of a solid granite slab that size so close to the house foundation?
(I have a single landing platform of 8" height. There are no additional steps.)
@@wendy4 Thank you for clarifying, with just 1 step, the weight will be no problem at all as long as it is laid on a concrete footing.
Why not make the steps where the granite treads can just lay without cutting? adding so much work for no reason
What would you do cut the vinyl siding? Cutting the granite for these guys is no big deal and he gets the size he needs. These guys do amazing work, perfection.
@@darcyscott2406 no need to cut the siding as the siding is not sticking out in his case. if the siding is sticking out you put an Azak where the wood is and you have room. I have don’t hundreds of these
The way that I see it, that is not extra work. That is what it took to do a quality job. I know most guys put quality like that on the back burner behind speed and efficiency but I don't like to. We built the steps to the exact width of the front entrance. A full 6' stoop would hang past the edge of the kickboard and the siding. And like what @darcyscott2406 said, do you think cutting the siding is a better option? Because the option you gave is not an option in my opinion. I would never just slap a longer piece of Azak to cover the gap, that would look kind of silly in my opinion. Quality is in the details, cutting and rock facing treads to the exact size of the entrance is one of those details. I don't sacrifice things like that to save time and make an extra buck or 2. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper it’s not about about money because reality is you are spending time with extra block/gravel/mortar to fill the 3-4 inches you cut off. they come factory cut to specific length so you don’t mess around with cutting them. siding wasn’t sticking so no need to cut siding either way. You could do it both ways it’s just give the customer a bit more landing so if they decide to add railing they have more room.
I know what you mean for sure, but at that point you would be building the steps in front of the siding. I'm not too sure about that, in a visual stand point.