I built the same. The only thing , I didn’t use the chimney flange. I stuck it out the back which pushed the pans all the way to the back. Much hotter in the back. But ya great job. I think these evaporators work great. Cheers.
Great job of explaining things in your video. I've watched a lot of similar videos about making barrel stove evaporators, but you did a better job of covering a lot more details. Was your evaporation rate around 3 gallons / hour?
Adam, just make sure you get a tight fit when cutting out for the pans. Like I said in the video the pans are tapered. I run this for hours in my garage with the door closed. No problems at all with smoke. I
looks great but you need to get rid of the copper tubing idea... copper when heated, (depending on the temperature it's heated to) can produce "copper oxide". Copper oxide is a black flaky / powder residue that may be toxic to humans (debatable), but I'd prefer to have the syrup as clean and pure as possible if it were me. If you want to test this, simply heat a small section - maybe a 1" patch of a length of copper tube with a torch to red hot (or there about). Then let it cool or cool it with wet rag. Then flex of bend that section over a paper towel to collect the residue that will fall out of the tubing. If you'd like to eat that, then continue, if not - maybe use stainless tubing or just get rid of the heated syrup idea and just add it a little at a time so as to not loose your boil. That "dark color" you mentioned (and as can been seen) in the video could have been some copper oxide getting into the product from the initial burn in of the copper tubing around the stove pipe. In fact, I'm pretty sure it is actually. You can google the CuO toxicity. I don't think it will kill you, just not sure I'd want to eat that. I would think you would want to do this outside so as to not sticky up the walls and ceiling in the garage wouldn't you? or was that not a problem with the garage door open?
You do bring up a very good point, I won’t be using that heat exchanger anymore as I have the warming pan with the WF Mason. I don’t think with the cold sap flowing in the copper, it ever got that hot. Only when I was done boiling and the fire was still going and nothing in the copper. Before the next boil I would flush out the heat exchanger with clean water and black flaking stuff would come out. So you are correct and that is a great observation.
My thinking of the pans I get 6” deep pans reason being is it’s closer to the fire and and gets hotter I still only fill them a few inches. It boils like a charm
I built the same. The only thing , I didn’t use the chimney flange. I stuck it out the back which pushed the pans all the way to the back. Much hotter in the back. But ya great job. I think these evaporators work great. Cheers.
Used these for a few years, only boiled about 2/4 gallons with dry maple wood.
Great job of explaining things in your video. I've watched a lot of similar videos about making barrel stove evaporators, but you did a better job of covering a lot more details. Was your evaporation rate around 3 gallons / hour?
Thanks Dick for the kind words. I did get between 3-4 gph boiling.
Does this leak smoke from around the pans? I want to make one of these to put in a small sugar shack, but I don't want to smoke myself out. Thanks!
Adam, just make sure you get a tight fit when cutting out for the pans. Like I said in the video the pans are tapered. I run this for hours in my garage with the door closed. No problems at all with smoke.
I
@@jonboersma1536 awesome, thank you!
looks great but you need to get rid of the copper tubing idea... copper when heated, (depending on the temperature it's heated to) can produce "copper oxide". Copper oxide is a black flaky / powder residue that may be toxic to humans (debatable), but I'd prefer to have the syrup as clean and pure as possible if it were me. If you want to test this, simply heat a small section - maybe a 1" patch of a length of copper tube with a torch to red hot (or there about). Then let it cool or cool it with wet rag. Then flex of bend that section over a paper towel to collect the residue that will fall out of the tubing. If you'd like to eat that, then continue, if not - maybe use stainless tubing or just get rid of the heated syrup idea and just add it a little at a time so as to not loose your boil.
That "dark color" you mentioned (and as can been seen) in the video could have been some copper oxide getting into the product from the initial burn in of the copper tubing around the stove pipe. In fact, I'm pretty sure it is actually. You can google the CuO toxicity. I don't think it will kill you, just not sure I'd want to eat that.
I would think you would want to do this outside so as to not sticky up the walls and ceiling in the garage wouldn't you? or was that not a problem with the garage door open?
You do bring up a very good point, I won’t be using that heat exchanger anymore as I have the warming pan with the WF Mason. I don’t think with the cold sap flowing in the copper, it ever got that hot. Only when I was done boiling and the fire was still going and nothing in the copper. Before the next boil I would flush out the heat exchanger with clean water and black flaking stuff would come out. So you are correct and that is a great observation.
The best bourbon is made in a copper still...no worries mate! @@jonboersma1536
Do you run the sap through a filter at all? If so when do you do that?
Tim I run through a filter before it’s goes into the pans and after.
What are you using for taps there at 7:52?
Also, where are you located?
1/4 male to male brass hose barb, I’ve since move to a stainless steel lifetime tap.
My thinking of the pans I get 6” deep pans reason being is it’s closer to the fire and and gets hotter I still only fill them a few inches. It boils like a charm
Go point.
How far do your pans sit in the tank
There 4 inch pans. So 4 inch’s
Where are you located Jon?
Byron Center