Well done...most comprehensive video I’ve seen yet on this repair. The only thing that would make it better would be showing the reassembly- that’s the part of repairs that usually gives me the most trouble.
You should make a video on how to make a how-to video. Yours has concise language, close ups that are in focus, good lighting, no steps skipped. I feel prepared to tackle this job right now.
Spot on! Successfully removed and replaced the passenger side assembly in my 2003 F250 Supercab (Lariat). Decided to go with replacement rather than repair. Bought part number DLA135 at Autozone for $63.99 before taxes. It is a suitable substitute and works fine. Looks slightly different than original, but all connections and installation are compatible and functional. From going out to shop to start this project until coming back in the house after completing it was approx 1.5 hours. Most difficult part was getting the assembly back in place after installing the new actuator on the assembly. Worst was getting the door locking rod in place and connected. I did not remove the final green clip during the outside door handle removal, but instead slid the rod thru the S part of the upper rod at the handle end. Easier to reassemble but it did keep the rod on the assembly and that may have led to some of my difficulty getting it all lined back up. I also did not remove the entire door lock knob rod. My install difference was only 2 gang plugs on the window/door operation panel. Most everything else was perfect. I put my laptop on my passenger side seat and followed along. I had also made a list of steps that I printed out to include socket sizes, etc... I've done many maintenance procedures using help from CZcams and this is by far the finest production I've seen. Certainly a benchmark for others to follow. Nice work and thanks for taking the time to publish it.
I really appreciate your video. The video frames and explanations are the closest I have seen to hopefully help me repair my 2004 6.0 Powerstroke F250 Super Duty Crew Cab front doors lock. The previous owner removed the manual latch and a lot of the internal hardware brackets to make it tough for someone to get into the vehicle, including the owner when the battery dies. I am hoping I have all of the pieces to reconnect at least one of the 2 front door key locks. Of all the diagrams out there nothing is clear. Thanks a bunch!
For 8 bucks a piece from Amazon there is no way I would go thru all that to fix a 20 year old device that is so hard to get to. Great video on how to get to the latch. Just buy a new actuator and replace it.
The presence of a PTC resistor inside the motor explains something I've wondered about for many years ("how does a lock actuator not burn up when you hold the button down, despite lack of a limit switch or current sensor") and goes some way in explaining why most of my locks seem "wimpy" rather than dead or jammed if that PTC tends to drift up in value or the contacts oxidize. It's also so irritating how vehicle manufacturers put in rivets and heat stakes to save a half a penny per unit on fasteners...and make you buy a whole new subassembly when it fails.
Reinstall the door handle before reconnecting all the rods! This will ensure your handle has the proper "throw" once everything is hooked up, otherwise you may need to disassemble the door again. Other than that this video made the job super easy!
Repair done. Great video. Would like to see the reassembly though. Hate to hear, " Just put it back together, the way it came apart". Need to see location and routing of a few things. Figured it out by watching the video again, but it would have been good to see the reverse order step by step. Gkad I found this video. Replaced the actuator. Thought about the motor modification, but decided against it. Thanks for posting.
I knew that I had to pull the malfunctioning actuators from my '02 F-250 and I figured that, since they didn't work anyhow I might as well see if they could be made to work again with the tinfoil wrapped resistors before spending money on replacements. I hit a wall when, no matter what tool I tried, I couldn't find a way to lift the metal tabs on the sides of the motor. Finally, I went beast mode and simply grabbed the metal motor casing with pliers and the white plastic end cap with another pair of pliers and just pulled them apart. I straightened the tabs afterward and folded them back into place on reassembly. Result? Both actuators are back on line and functioning perfectly at the cost of a small strip of kitchen aluminum foil. Thanks for posting this thoughtful and inventive video!
Thank you for this video. I prefer to repair than just replace. This video is perfect! Too bad it's so much to remove, just to get to the part that needs fixed. Or I could do that tonight. I'll have to wait for the heat tomorrow. Well, later today, since it's 1:49am. LOL Awesome video!
I did this on the back door of a 2001 F-250 crew cab and it was a goddamn nightmare. Broke nearly every stupid plastic clip removing the actuator, and best part is REPLACING IT MADE NO DIFFERENCE. Oh, and now the handle doesn't work from the inside. So long story short, totally worth it!
Gotta be one of the best DIY vids on YT. Well done. I've got an '01 F350 with all 4 actuators biting the dust. This vid was a huge help. I'd read about the foil fix on a forum somewhere but had a hard time tracking just by reading text. This vid made it crystal clear. Thx a ton.
I watched another video before I watched yours. The first one was good but I sure wish I had watched yours first, The other one showed taking the assembly out through the door handle hole and the rod that snaps into the black clip ended up falling off somehow. After being in the industry for almost 15 years before I retired and keeping my ASE Certifications up to date I consider myself fairly experienced but your video was a great help. I have subscribed to your channel and will be visiting often as my F350 is a 2001 with 330k miles so it is starting to need repairs. THANKS AGAIN and KUDOS to you sir.
Very, very clear. I like the way you showed the part from many directions and used excellent lighting. Using the sheet metal screws on the enclosure was a nice touch. A neat and clean job. thanks
Superb video!! I am actually adding remote power door locks to my XL bare bones F350. Was going to use the DEI heavy duty lock actuators but after finding the Motorcraft actuators for around $41 each, I can easily wire them to the keyless entry 'brain'. I would rather avoid doing a custom install with additional hardware. This video will help tremendously!
Great video, thank you. I have a question between 4:16 -4:21 count on video timeline after you remove outside door handle, between that step and where you remove the actuator from the door there are two yellow plastic clips diagonal from each other and the rod they are connected to! Theyre there @4:16 & gone @4:21 how do you disconnect that rod from the actuator?
Great video. Only problem I have is getting the tabs on the motor up to get to the resistor. Is there a trick to doing it? I tried using a pick. The tabs don't budge
I have a question on a ‘97 Mountaineer. My wife locked the doors and my grandson slammed the door and bent the locking lugs on the door. Now, it will not open. How can I open the door on it. I have the panel removed from the door so I can get to everything but the locking lugs.
Michael Liss yes, the door latch mechanism. I cannot get the door open. The long bar moves to the rear when you pull the door handle but I cannot get it to move far enough to open the lock. I think I can fix the latch if I can get the door open. If I can fix it, I will replace it.
I replaced the door actuator worked great but now the window seems to be off track goes about 2 inches then binds panel bows out tried taking out all the guts for the actuator still binds
one more comment - on my 2001 there was no access panel as shown in the video. Grab an angle grinder and create one similar to the one in the video. Couldn't do the job without that access.
great video, ... my remotr just stopped working 2006 f350 I had been been checking fuses because I just changed starter now that wont start with key , no power getting to starter from ignition but will start when arched at starter , it just clicks, as for the fuses the only one blown was fuse 107 20 volt , says its for door locks , but remote stopped working I can open with key but alarm goes off for 5 minutes ? what my problems dude? thanks
Very comprehensive... but is all this actually necessary? It seems possible to get that plastic latch loose without removing frigging *everything*. Also, that aluminum foil trick is a sure...fire.. way to have a small fire in the door.
I just put new actuators in my F250. They only lasted 2 days. The last set lasted about 7 weeks. The passenger inside door handle was very difficult to operate and then both actuators stopped working. Could the problem be a door switch? I have ordered another set of actuators and will double check connections, etc and lube everything when I install them . Anything else I need to do? I did check operation of the locks both times before buttoning it all , and they worked fine.
I would imagine the same fix for door locks but my window on the passenge side would work intermittently, there seemed to be no pattern to it working or not. I found out the wire from the driver side switch to the passenger side window switch was bad. The wire was broken inside the insulation so you couldn't see it. I found out by using the continuity setting on my multimeter. You can google that if you want and mulimeters can be bought for less than 10 dollars or free from harbor freight with the coupon. If your getting 12 volts at the motor its probably your motor. Once again google how to use a multimeter if you don't know how. good luck
When I hit the door unlock buttons on either of my front doors, or on the fob, there is no noise, and no door lock actuation on any of my 4 doors. fuses seem fine, any ideas?
Frist replace the fuse just make sure. Then you need to check wire at kick panel for power. if power then the wire in the door, as it comes in the door, an at the switch.
Sounds like the polarity got crossed some where. Possibly if you used foil it is touching something it shouldn't inside motor. Is it backwards with both drivers and passenger door lock switch ?
ralph whitmore sometimes yes. When using the lock button on each door if it makes a clicking noise but does not unlock more than likely it's the actuator.
It's a HORRIBLE repair. Mainly cause Ford likes to make these super teeny tiny holes that you have to transform your wrist into jelly to actually be able to reach what you are working on. Plus they have a fetish for stupid plastic clips that prefer to just break instead of releasing properly.
I don't understand how this is so easy for everyone... every time I try to fix my door I end up making it worse. So far I've had to buy 3 exterior handles, I've lost count oh how many clips/tabs I've had to replace, now the window track doesn't bolt in anymore no matter how hard i push up on it or try to get it to align, the locking rod that goes from exterior handle to the actuator holder is now super bent and loose and won't lock/unlock even though its attached to the clip attached to keylock on exterior handle. The actuator wont stay on the holder part and every time it comes loose the little metal bar that moves on the actuator keeps coming out of the little plastic piece, while the little yellow plug right next to it is super loose and does nothing to hold the pieces in place. All of this while causing a massive bruise on my forearm since I'm pressing on it so hard just to reach everything that I can barely see through the tiny holes in the door, and what I can see I can only see with one of my eyes so I have no depth perception?? So yeah, don't believe the "wow this was so easy!!" hype, because in reality it's a FUCKING NIGHTMARE.
Great video, but definitely not worth all the hassle for a $10 part. Just buy the part and save yourself time. I would be peeved if I did all that to save $10 just to have the motor fail.
Well done...most comprehensive video I’ve seen yet on this repair. The only thing that would make it better would be showing the reassembly- that’s the part of repairs that usually gives me the most trouble.
John Woo couldent of produved this video any better ! Excellent.
You should make a video on how to make a how-to video. Yours has concise language, close ups that are in focus, good lighting, no steps skipped. I feel prepared to tackle this job right now.
Now that's how you do a how to video! Awesome job.
thank you
Eric Pena can I be
Your videos are really done well. To the point no droning on about other stuff. Thank you for taking the time to upload!
Great video on how to remove and replace door lock motor! Couldn’t have done it without this. Thank you.
Thanks for watching.
Fixed my truck in like 1.5 hours, ordered new actuators for cheap on Amazon, thanks for this. Made it easy
Thank you! The other videos omitted pulling the outside door handle. So I broke the green clip. Much more confident about reassembly after your video.
Spot on! Successfully removed and replaced the passenger side assembly in my 2003 F250 Supercab (Lariat). Decided to go with replacement rather than repair. Bought part number DLA135 at Autozone for $63.99 before taxes. It is a suitable substitute and works fine. Looks slightly different than original, but all connections and installation are compatible and functional. From going out to shop to start this project until coming back in the house after completing it was approx 1.5 hours. Most difficult part was getting the assembly back in place after installing the new actuator on the assembly. Worst was getting the door locking rod in place and connected.
I did not remove the final green clip during the outside door handle removal, but instead slid the rod thru the S part of the upper rod at the handle end. Easier to reassemble but it did keep the rod on the assembly and that may have led to some of my difficulty getting it all lined back up. I also did not remove the entire door lock knob rod.
My install difference was only 2 gang plugs on the window/door operation panel. Most everything else was perfect. I put my laptop on my passenger side seat and followed along. I had also made a list of steps that I printed out to include socket sizes, etc...
I've done many maintenance procedures using help from CZcams and this is by far the finest production I've seen. Certainly a benchmark for others to follow. Nice work and thanks for taking the time to publish it.
I really appreciate your video. The video frames and explanations are the closest I have seen to hopefully help me repair my 2004 6.0 Powerstroke F250 Super Duty Crew Cab front doors lock. The previous owner removed the manual latch and a lot of the internal hardware brackets to make it tough for someone to get into the vehicle, including the owner when the battery dies. I am hoping I have all of the pieces to reconnect at least one of the 2 front door key locks. Of all the diagrams out there nothing is clear. Thanks a bunch!
I reviewed several other videos. You video is by far the best !!!!!
For 8 bucks a piece from Amazon there is no way I would go thru all that to fix a 20 year old device that is so hard to get to. Great video on how to get to the latch. Just buy a new actuator and replace it.
The presence of a PTC resistor inside the motor explains something I've wondered about for many years ("how does a lock actuator not burn up when you hold the button down, despite lack of a limit switch or current sensor") and goes some way in explaining why most of my locks seem "wimpy" rather than dead or jammed if that PTC tends to drift up in value or the contacts oxidize. It's also so irritating how vehicle manufacturers put in rivets and heat stakes to save a half a penny per unit on fasteners...and make you buy a whole new subassembly when it fails.
Keep up the awesome repairs.
I used this, followed it to the letter, and this was the easiest repair ever. Thank you so much
Thanks
Reinstall the door handle before reconnecting all the rods! This will ensure your handle has the proper "throw" once everything is hooked up, otherwise you may need to disassemble the door again. Other than that this video made the job super easy!
Repair done. Great video. Would like to see the reassembly though. Hate to hear, " Just put it back together, the way it came apart".
Need to see location and routing of a few things. Figured it out by watching the video again, but it would have been good to see the reverse order step by step.
Gkad I found this video. Replaced the actuator. Thought about the motor modification, but decided against it.
Thanks for posting.
Iron & Oak Sawmill I played the video backwards
Agreed
Really well done video. I just swapped out both actuators in my 2000 f350 with your help. Would have been a real pain without this video. Thanks!
glad it could helped out
Great video. Replaced both sides in about 2 hours.
I knew that I had to pull the malfunctioning actuators from my '02 F-250 and I figured that, since they didn't work anyhow I might as well see if they could be made to work again with the tinfoil wrapped resistors before spending money on replacements.
I hit a wall when, no matter what tool I tried, I couldn't find a way to lift the metal tabs on the sides of the motor. Finally, I went beast mode and simply grabbed the metal motor casing with pliers and the white plastic end cap with another pair of pliers and just pulled them apart. I straightened the tabs afterward and folded them back into place on reassembly.
Result? Both actuators are back on line and functioning perfectly at the cost of a small strip of kitchen aluminum foil. Thanks for posting this thoughtful and inventive video!
Awesome man glad you got to working
Thank you for this video. I prefer to repair than just replace. This video is perfect! Too bad it's so much to remove, just to get to the part that needs fixed. Or I could do that tonight. I'll have to wait for the heat tomorrow. Well, later today, since it's 1:49am. LOL
Awesome video!
I did this on the back door of a 2001 F-250 crew cab and it was a goddamn nightmare. Broke nearly every stupid plastic clip removing the actuator, and best part is REPLACING IT MADE NO DIFFERENCE. Oh, and now the handle doesn't work from the inside. So long story short, totally worth it!
Thank you Cliff. Watch video and swapped out 4 on my F250 Super Duty in about 2 hrs. Works like brand new with 4 units from Amazon for $24.
That's great
Gotta be one of the best DIY vids on YT. Well done. I've got an '01 F350 with all 4 actuators biting the dust. This vid was a huge help. I'd read about the foil fix on a forum somewhere but had a hard time tracking just by reading text. This vid made it crystal clear. Thx a ton.
Thanks man.
99f150. Both doors, I can hear it attempt to lock/unlock. But nothing moves. Is this the same issue since it's both doors?
You are amazing teacher
Wow‼️ you have a little bit of everything. Great video
Thanks
I watched another video before I watched yours. The first one was good but I sure wish I had watched yours first, The other one showed taking the assembly out through the door handle hole and the rod that snaps into the black clip ended up falling off somehow.
After being in the industry for almost 15 years before I retired and keeping my ASE Certifications up to date I consider myself fairly experienced but your video was a great help. I have subscribed to your channel and will be visiting often as my F350 is a 2001 with 330k miles so it is starting to need repairs. THANKS AGAIN and KUDOS to you sir.
Clyde Reid thank-you and thanks for watching.
I will be doing this on my 02 F250. Thanks to this video, I will save a bunch of money!!! Excellent job
I need to do this on my 02 Ford F 250 as well. 18 years and 200K and this thing just cranks!!
Very, very clear. I like the way you showed the part from many directions and used excellent lighting. Using the sheet metal screws on the enclosure was a nice touch. A neat and clean job.
thanks
your welcome
Superb video!! I am actually adding remote power door locks to my XL bare bones F350. Was going to use the DEI heavy duty lock actuators but after finding the Motorcraft actuators for around $41 each, I can easily wire them to the keyless entry 'brain'. I would rather avoid doing a custom install with additional hardware. This video will help tremendously!
Great video!
Probably the best you tube repair I've ever seen.. well done
thank you very much
I think I'd rather scrap the truck then go through all of this.....lol
Your video and info on this problem was awesome.great diy for me !!!!!
Thank you
When you tested it after the fix, the word "subscribe" got in the way of us seeing if the lock button came up and down. Dang it.
I came here to say this exact comment.
Right that was kinda basically the moment of truth lol 😂
Well done, thanks ! 👍😊
Cheers ✌️ 🤙 🇨🇦
This guy is crazy smart! I think I'm gonna buy the actuators though lol
I respect the hell out of the guy in the video... but for under 50 bucks, I think I'll save myself the hassle too lol
Excellent. Thank you.
Well done! I'll be trying this fix next week.
awesome thanks for watching
Instead of the piece of aluminum, I used the prongs on a 120v 60Hz power cord. They are made of brass and do not corrode.
Very good demonstration. Thank you.
Great video, thank you. I have a question between 4:16 -4:21 count on video timeline after you remove outside door handle, between that step and where you remove the actuator from the door there are two yellow plastic clips diagonal from each other and the rod they are connected to! Theyre there @4:16 & gone @4:21 how do you disconnect that rod from the actuator?
Very nicely done video. Thanks.
Great job and I like it. Thanks
Very good!
Great video. Only problem I have is getting the tabs on the motor up to get to the resistor. Is there a trick to doing it? I tried using a pick. The tabs don't budge
Excellent video
I did the small aluminum pad replacement and it worked for a few months but broke again.
Thankyou very much.
Thank you
I think I did this years ago with a penny
Thank you. Awesome video.
Great Video Very NIce
great job buddy
Great video!👍thank you
Great video. Very helpful.
cowboy7x thank-you
Nice video the only one helpfull 3:57
is that the same procedure for the back drivers side door
I have a question on a ‘97 Mountaineer. My wife locked the doors and my grandson slammed the door and bent the locking lugs on the door. Now, it will not open. How can I open the door on it. I have the panel removed from the door so I can get to everything but the locking lugs.
Are you talking about the door latch mechanism?! Where the door when you close it locks ?!
Michael Liss yes, the door latch mechanism. I cannot get the door open. The long bar moves to the rear when you pull the door handle but I cannot get it to move far enough to open the lock. I think I can fix the latch if I can get the door open. If I can fix it, I will replace it.
Fixed it! Thanks man!
Thank you!👍
Also four wheel CV joint replace any videos for that?
Thanks for posting this! Big help!
your welcome glad I could help
I replaced the door actuator worked great but now the window
seems to be off track goes about 2 inches then binds panel bows out tried taking out all the guts for the actuator still binds
Do you have to do all 4 doors if this is happening with all 4?
On my F250- all doors will unlock using button or FOB BUT NONE WILL LOCK-any ideas?
one more comment - on my 2001 there was no access panel as shown in the video. Grab an angle grinder and create one similar to the one in the video. Couldn't do the job without that access.
Good shyt bro we are a dieing breed
Nice
I’ll have to do this to all four doors??
great video, ... my remotr just stopped working 2006 f350 I had been been checking fuses because I just changed starter now that wont start with key , no power getting to starter from ignition but will start when arched at starter , it just clicks, as for the fuses the only one blown was fuse 107 20 volt , says its for door locks , but remote stopped working I can open with key but alarm goes off for 5 minutes ? what my problems dude? thanks
r vid on passenger side door lock. It’s upside down, whole different ball game.
thank u for answer.
Very comprehensive... but is all this actually necessary? It seems possible to get that plastic latch loose without removing frigging *everything*. Also, that aluminum foil trick is a sure...fire.. way to have a small fire in the door.
LOL A fire from pure aluminum hooked up to 12V lines that only take pulses on rare occasion? Care to explain how that would happen?
I just put new actuators in my F250. They only lasted 2 days. The last set lasted about 7 weeks. The passenger inside door handle was very difficult to operate and then both actuators stopped working. Could the problem be a door switch? I have ordered another set of actuators and will double check connections, etc and lube everything when I install them . Anything else I need to do? I did check operation of the locks both times before buttoning it all , and they worked fine.
Door locks on both doors and window on passenger door don't work. Door lock out for years window few months. same fix?
I would imagine the same fix for door locks but my window on the passenge side would work intermittently, there seemed to be no pattern to it working or not. I found out the wire from the driver side switch to the passenger side window switch was bad. The wire was broken inside the insulation so you couldn't see it. I found out by using the continuity setting on my multimeter. You can google that if you want and mulimeters can be bought for less than 10 dollars or free from harbor freight with the coupon. If your getting 12 volts at the motor its probably your motor. Once again google how to use a multimeter if you don't know how. good luck
But this wouldn’t cause all four doors not to work would it?
This seems like a lot of work.
What are the dimensions on that spacer?
does the fix to the driver's side door fix the other doors as well or does each door need to be taken apart and the same piece replaced?
Cary Pyle each individual one has to be done
Guess I will be locking and unlocking manually for the rest of this trucks life!is this one of those spoof videos???
thanks. good work
what is material of resistence you replace ?
abuagla blola thanks. aluminium
When I hit the door unlock buttons on either of my front doors, or on the fob, there is no noise, and no door lock actuation on any of my 4 doors. fuses seem fine, any ideas?
Frist replace the fuse just make sure. Then you need to check wire at kick panel for power. if power then the wire in the door, as it comes in the door, an at the switch.
I did step by step like you, got it work but it's working opposite, when I hit lock it unlocks, when I hit unlock it locks ?!?!?
Sounds like the polarity got crossed some where. Possibly if you used foil it is touching something it shouldn't inside motor. Is it backwards with both drivers and passenger door lock switch ?
Does this need to be done to all 4 doors? Or just the drivers side
depends how many switches are not working. Start with drivers door then continue from there if more are having problems
How many actuators are there in a 4 door power lock set-up? 4 or 2?
4
4 If they're all full size doors.
do you know what numbers or letters were on the litttle motor?
no I don't sorry
Ok thanks
C.L.S. Allinone the shaft that had the white plastic gear is it smooth or does it have teeth that hold it in place?
was the shaft splined with the gear
victor garcia sorry man can't remember
door locks not working, I replaced the switch on driver side, do you have to replace all four actuators
ralph whitmore sometimes yes. When using the lock button on each door if it makes a clicking noise but does not unlock more than likely it's the actuator.
C.L.S. Allinone , what if there is no “click”
The amount of work you have to do almost doesn’t make it worth it. But I’ll try it anyway.
I would rather try this than pay someone $500 to do it...
It's a HORRIBLE repair. Mainly cause Ford likes to make these super teeny tiny holes that you have to transform your wrist into jelly to actually be able to reach what you are working on. Plus they have a fetish for stupid plastic clips that prefer to just break instead of releasing properly.
@@jamesb1988 yeah I didn’t do it. I’ll just use the keys to lock my doors lol
@@ColMustard-jm9jx SMART individual!! Don't believe all these jokers saying what a piece of cake it is, it's a nightmare.
@@mikeannas5689 or just deal with no electric locks. Not really a need.
I don't understand how this is so easy for everyone... every time I try to fix my door I end up making it worse. So far I've had to buy 3 exterior handles, I've lost count oh how many clips/tabs I've had to replace, now the window track doesn't bolt in anymore no matter how hard i push up on it or try to get it to align, the locking rod that goes from exterior handle to the actuator holder is now super bent and loose and won't lock/unlock even though its attached to the clip attached to keylock on exterior handle. The actuator wont stay on the holder part and every time it comes loose the little metal bar that moves on the actuator keeps coming out of the little plastic piece, while the little yellow plug right next to it is super loose and does nothing to hold the pieces in place. All of this while causing a massive bruise on my forearm since I'm pressing on it so hard just to reach everything that I can barely see through the tiny holes in the door, and what I can see I can only see with one of my eyes so I have no depth perception??
So yeah, don't believe the "wow this was so easy!!" hype, because in reality it's a FUCKING NIGHTMARE.
Great video, but definitely not worth all the hassle for a $10 part. Just buy the part and save yourself time. I would be peeved if I did all that to save $10 just to have the motor fail.
Could have just popped it off without pulling every thing out
Would have been nice if you just said at the beginning you’re gonna remove the actuator, rather than biting that fact half way through your video
Great video!