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The only thing I'd add as a tip would be, dampen the blocks with a sponge or brush before you add the mortar to the block. Reason being, when the block is damp, the moisture pulls in the chemicals that are in the mortar, into the pours of the block, making for a stronger bond between mortar and block. If you just slap wet mortar into a dusty block, it doesn't really bond, and results in premature block shifting while the structure settles, or durri g seismic activity

This was top!! Thank you 👍

This is a brilliant instructional video! Thank you for posting...

Great job! Well explained! Impressive

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Hi, I learned a lot from this video, thank you! I wanted to ask your perspective about a couple things: you did not use a rock/gravel base, or a vapor barrier. Why did you decide against these things?

How are you stabilising the earth under the house?

Anyone in the Chicagoland area that’s familiar with this type of work?

Did footers pass inspection before concrete pour? Aedin

Thank-you for that video. Just what I needed. I have a shed with roof rafters that do NOT extend past the shed walls- (I know!) I couldn't figure out how I could build an overhang that would not sag over time. The support at the peak answers that question.

My shelves sagged big time in the middle. I like the idea of adding the extra bracket support that you show here. Did you just screw them into the plastic?

Liquid rubber and simple guard are foolproof

Would 2 feet be too big of an overhang using this method?

muchas gracias saludos desde mexico

That's a nice solid structure and the foundation is great. Great work all around! For those looking to save exponential amounts of money and especially time though you could skip all that form building, "greasing the forms" and the super high vertical rebar with the "safety caps". As you are digging it out either by hand or machine, just dig the form of the footer in the dirt itself... You're gonna want to put 2-3 adjacent, long, lines of horizontal rebar down the and length and width of the footer, regardless of whatever city or state code, and bend 90 degrees around the corners. You also need all this rebar on the ground to raise a good 3 .5 inches above the dirt for the concrete to set below it. We can do this by simply splitting regular red bricks in half and placing them beneath the rebar about every 4 feet. You don't have to buy special cuts of steel wire for this, you could even use stones from a nearby creek to make sure you rebar is high enough above ground. All this effort will almost entirely prevent cracking well beyond your great, great, grandchildren's lifespan if done properly. Don't forget the rebar tie wire that connects each individual piece to the next and double up at intersections between individual pieces of long rebar with at least a 20 inch overlap . At 4:50 in this video we're going to instead put a short 16-18 inch piece of rebar crossing our long pieces and tie those in with wire as well. Finally, every 4 feet, you drive an 18-30 inch piece of rebar vertically along the center of your footer and use a laser level to put them at the exact height you want your footer to be all the way around (about 12 inches of concrete for 1 story structures). As you are pouring concrete you have an easy height measurement with that vertical rebar that's been leaser leveled exactly, instead of a health risk you need to buy extra stuff to cap off or a huge, time intensive wooden form made from planks you can barely re-use. As a disclaimer this method requires more skill in digging, especially with machinery and you may use an extra yard of concrete or two, however it saves huge amounts on lumber, grease, plastic, and most importantly... time.

OH Boy my pad is going to be cock eyed for sure LOL

Do you install the baffles in the whole ceiling or just one or 2 away from corners?

Fantastic video! I just someone tell me before starting the engine, after the pump/chain replacement, to rotate the crank by hand 2 full rotations. Is there truth to that? I am by far no mechanic, but I have to do this job next week.

What do you charge for water pump on this?

Jesus Christ, somebody finally made a simple video that gave real instructions on forming (along with video of the materials). It sounds dumb, but all I wanted to see was what type and size wood used, the pin/stakes to hold the forms, the size of screws, etc. Nobody puts that stuff in their videos, but you did. I didn't even realize there was a special kind of rebar pin (or that's even what it's called) that had holes so you could secure the form to it until this video. Kudos, man. You're a stud.

I'm at the half way point of this job in a 2015 Ford Explorer. The Harmonic Balancer broke one of the middle ears from the 3 jaw puller. The worst part was getting the red tabs up on the Fuel Injector connectors, one connector just fell apart completely and the stupid 8mm head bolt under the intake manifold seized and snapped on its first turn.

Thank you very good job

Cant you just use TAR like they did in the old days?

Thank you so much champ ! It was impossible to get the Drive Belt on. Then I tried your trick and it worked like magic !

Great job! You made it look so easy.

Thanks for sharing this

Very good video. I'm ready to tackle this job now. Thank you for all your hard work editing. Very great vid!

Wonderful detail video. Thank you so much!!!

I'm up to removing the drainage pump on my Kitchenaid. There is resistance in spinning the impellor, however the housing will not spin off. I even tried rotating it with a clamp but it only rotates about 2 degrees. I don't want to break it.

Very thorough video very enjoyable, a very big job

Awesome explanation! Thanks!

Great video very informative!! thank you for sharing

This helped me do my first timing chain and water pump replacement. Thank You.

How do u get CZcams or Netflix on it cause mine doesn’t have it

Needs a ZeboZAP

Awesome!

Great presentation and tutorial 10 out of 10!! Thank you. As far as doing this job, I'll pass.

Outrageous for a water pump R&R, I wonder what the flat rate is?!

This is the best most helpful video I've ever watched about any construction. Thank you!!

Do you need to have a vapor barrier in between the ground and the forms before you pour or does it just depend on where you live?

I have to build the exact same thing tomorrow. Man this was super helpful! Great tutorial. Thanks

idk where this was poured at, but if you're in the north. make sure to use 21AA crushed concrete or better for "base material". In the winter, that slab would heave like crazy. again, idk if this was poured some place with mild winters. Great video tho.

Great video, lots of great information. Just finished the water pump on my wife’s 17 Explorer. This video gave me confidence going into this project.

Thank you for sharing

Cost of materials?

I have a question and it my just be in a diff video of yours is there a drain on this basement?

Holy cow how are you not more popular I've litteraly been looking for this type of video for years. Great video well put together.

You should invest into a dedicated staple puller. It's $15 well spent if you use it every day.

Well done. I've watched a few videos on this process by now and this is one of the best. The only thing I noticed not mentioned is routing the wires before replacing the wiring cover. There's a channel the wires need to go into. A minor nit.

I need help forgot where this 1 connection go