Removing the Front Bumper, Headlights and Moving Lock Carrier to Service Position - Audi A6 C6 4F
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- čas přidán 16. 09. 2020
- Dear viewer,
In this video I am showing you in detail how you can remove the front bumper, headlights and also set the lock carrier of an Audi A6 C6 in the service position in order to do work in the front of the engine bay.
Setting the front lock carrier into the service position is necessary for many types of repairs. Several of these are the following. The replacement of the drive belt, its tensioner and idler pully. Removal and replacement of the alternator and the engine oil cooler.
As always, if you have any questions please leave a comment in the comment section below and I will do my best to answer them. If you liked the video and found it helpful please leave a like and consider subscribing. Thanks!
Regards,
Endless MotorWorks Team
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Can't tell you how many times I have watched this video. And I really can't thank you enough!
That's why I do these videos, to help other people. I am really happy it was useful to you. :)
Cool S6
Thanks!
Thanks for your help great video.
Glad the video was helpful!
I was able to change the belt, tensioner and the idle pulley without removing anything! There's plenty of room!
That's great that you managed to do so. However it depends which engine you have. On the 5.2 V10 there is no way to do that. Same goes for the 4.2 V8 FSI equipped vehicles.
@@EndlessMotorWorks same engine. 3.2 fsi.
@@RomanTrollanski The engine on the car I did this on was the with the 5.2 V10 FSI which is a much bigger engine in comparison to the 3.2 V6 FSI. This is why this process was necessary.
Great video and really helpful, thanks for going to the trouble. I am trying to remove the whole front end and you mention in this that you were going to do the same, did you make a video of that? Mine is leaking from above the alternator, I think from the hose on the rear of the coolant outlet housing, so I am hoping to get everything out of the way. I've also got a slow starter motor, wondering of I can dig into it from the front. Thanks again.
No video on that I am afraid. I was pressed on time and needed to do the drive belt and some pullies that where noisy before going away on vacation.
If you have an S6 the alternator is water-cooled so it is possible that one of those hoses or clamps ahs failed. Right above the alternator, regardless of it being an S-variant or not is the oil cooler. It also has coolant hoses connected to it, which do tend to leak. Removing that cooler is a royal pain. I would recommend getting the two gaskets that seal it to the engine. Those can be a common source for oil leaks when they age.
Lastly, regarding the starter, this would depend. On an S6 in particular this is officially an engine-out job. I have seen people replacing it by supporting the engine from above and removing the driver-side engine mount and some other stuff, but it is very difficult. It is also accessed from the wheel-well. So remove the wheel, wheel-liner, engine mount, etc. On A6s with the v6 and v8 it is a similar process, but a bit easier, as the engine is smaller.
@@EndlessMotorWorks thanks for the reply. You were correct in identifying the problem as a split hose to the alternator. Getting the front off was made more difficult by the seized bolts holding it all together. 10 hours work to access a £2 part. I’m going to have a go at the starter next, going to see if I can get at it with the engine in place.
@@chrismcpheat5359 It is good that you identified the problem and got it fixed. It might have been 10h, but when you consider the price of doing this in the dealership, you will feel quite good about yourself.
Feel free to update on your progress with the starter. I am quite interested in hearing how that goes. Good luck and hopefully you manage to replace with the engine in the car.
@@EndlessMotorWorks thanks for the info. I'm gonna replace the oil cooler o-rings on mine next. Can I just swing the front assembly out of the way, I have no problem disconnecting coolant hoses if need be.
@@StudioGoldsmith Technically possible, but the coolant hoses will need to be disconnected. You can leave the AC lines connected to the condenser, as if you loosen those then you will need to refill the AC again.
Excellent videos! They give good confidence in tackling our S6 common issues. My S6 will begin a tear down next week to sort some troublesome oil leaks!
One of the jobs on the list is the front crankshaft seal. Parts are on the way however I can't locate a replacement seal tool "T40048"? Please send me your thoughts on this tool. Is it required or is there a work around? I'm UK. Thanks All.👍
Thank you for the kind words! Regarding your question, honestly, I can't really tell you for sure, as I myself haven't yet tackled this issue. That being said and looking at the tool that is apparently required, I don't think that it would be too hard to find a metal sleeve from a ball joint press set that would fit. These are generally easy to find and relatively affordable too.
Hey again xD
I have adaptive light defective fault. It's super annoying. We checked the cables in the housing and it seems fine, and we placed a new headlightmotor, but the error doesn't go away. My mechanic also tried to remove the fuses and code out AFS but he couldn't do it. Do you know what else we could do or what it could be? The error keeps beeping super loud and im done with it
😅
The AFS lights have two motors, one is replicable, and one is not (technically you can replace it, but it is not sold separately). Guess with one is the ones that controls the AFS functions.
The procedure to code the AFS function out is quite complex and there is a good chance that your mechanic didn't do it right. The other thing is that if you have an S6 like I have, it will not work as it should. The reason for that is that the way the headlight is to be coded there is no option to keep the daytime running lights in the bumper, while AFS is disabled. It is either AFS with DRL or no AFS and no DRL. If you disabled both AFS and DRL will not get an error for the AFS, but you will get one for the DRL. I have tried that on my S6 and this is what I have found out.
So basically, if you are sure that the cabling inside the headlight is fine, you are left with the only option - replace the headlights the new ones for 1500 Euro a pop.
@@EndlessMotorWorks Thank you. That makes sense. I have a 2006 S6. My mechanic indeed talked about more errors about LED popping up when picking another headlight option. We used the google and youtube tutorials of coding it out. Good to know atleast that happens and its not something we did wrong. As far as all the wires we can see, everything looks good, we replaced the headlightmotor with the colored wires because the wires were stripped in bad shape and connection looked a bit oxidated. The black wires (where they most of the time break) seemed in rather good quality. One was a little stripped at a small section but we fixed that. We couldn't see the whole wire all the way as the headlight housing is in the way, but nothing indicated a broken wire as far as we could see and feel.
I also looked around for new or used headlights but there are so many different ones with so many different options. I don't know which one I need. My mechanic can't find the partnumber on my headlight.. Any other way to figure that out?
Working on my 2007 Audi A4 3.2 cabriolet trying to figure out where my coolant leaking is coming from
A common place for coolant leaks is the coolant expansion tank, which usually develops vertical hair-line cracks along back side of it and only leaks under pressure. I would also check the oil cooler.
@@EndlessMotorWorks I do see a lot of oil build up behind the belt
You don’t have to disconnect any ac or coolant lines ?
No need to disconnect any of that. The lines have enough slack in them to allow for the carrier to be put in service position without issues. If you want to remove it entirely you still don't need then you will need to remove the coolant lines going to the radiator. The AC condenser and oil cooler can just be tucked to the side, so still no need to remove those.
@@EndlessMotorWorks thank you so much for responding to me. I just need to move into service position to replace oil pressure switch. Those bolts you used instead of the vw tool to hold lock carrier in position , where did you get those bolts ?
@@christian_urocar Pretty much any hardware store. I just got one of the carrier bolts with me to match the threading and size. The longer the bolts the better.
@@EndlessMotorWorks nice thanks your the best man!!
@@EndlessMotorWorks hey bud , I hate to bother you but , my car is the s8 d3 v10, manual says service position but don’t see info on how to do it . I just need to change oil switch and check oil pressure . You think putting into service position I don’t have to loosen any coolant/ac lines ??? I know they are different cars but maybe you know something I dont
Bro I own a c6 s6, why didn’t u title the video for a s6
It was originally, but not that many people own a S6, so I changed it to C6, especially considering that it applies to pretty much any C6 generation Audi.
@@EndlessMotorWorks true true