Avoiding Common Wi-Fi Traps
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- čas přidán 22. 05. 2024
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What are some things to watch out for when setting up and using your home Wi-Fi?
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Everyone gansta till you see "Connected, No internet"
Which literally means that you can reach your neighbouring device, but the not any servers on the internet.
Connected, No internet means that your router has no access to the internet. Perhaps some construction worker cut the internet cable with his shovel while digging
Worst text you can ever see when you wanna surf the net so urgently
When my Wan is down I just yell at my ISP
@@derdrache0512 Well, more than often it's not the cable in the ground that gets damaged, it's a human error in the exchange, for example counting errors and disconnecting the wrong address. For example at my work with DSL we have street cabinets containing 12 blocks of 100 twister pairs and it's easy to remove 45 instead of 35 in example. With optic fiber it's kind of the same, accidentally removing the wrong patch can happen real quick.
Most service-tickets I get can be traced back to a human error somewhere in the exchange.
Working as a Network Engineer, I can safely say that WiFi is ABSOLUTELY the technology that has given me the most headaches. Unlike cables, the vast majority of what is going on, is simply out of your hands. Yes, there are best practices, but there's always that one thing, that is sure to make your planned installation requires troubleshooting and adjusting, weeks after.
Have you ever set up a printer?
@Aeyesi Of course not. Wireless internet connectivity is critical. There's a reason it's so widely used in all sectors.
Lives have literally been saved because of it.
@@scodal8636 I've dealt with my fair share of printers problems. Most of them always seem be Error 40 though....
@@ToreOnCZcams I don't think he ment that those users are dumb because they are using WiFi. I interpreted it as a "layer 8" kind of joke...
@@JSCHM Oh.
Linus: signal is better bellow the router
Me : flip the router upside down
I was thinking the same... But the ceiling access points are mounted upside down :D
I think the reason is less funiture blocking signals in the ceiling!
an intellectual
@@gsedej_MB +Jan Stromback Both of you are correct. It has more to do with the curvature of the Earth. Transmitter orientation doesn't matter as much unless you're using dish antennae to focus and direct the signals. The Earth is like an upside-down dish--it scatters any reflected signals; so the higher up you go, the better.
@@Lurker-dk8jk how tf is the earth's curvature supposed to be relevant at this scale? Even if it were feasibly measurable down to 10-20m (or about the size of an apartment), the apartment or house itself isn't curved.
We're talking about WiFi here, not satellites.
Thank you for pointing out how terrible WPS is. It should be noted that some routers lie and claim that WPS has been disabled but still leave it enabled.
What about WPS push button I think that's still ok right?
That's crazy they can do that.
@@jackkraken3888 The WPS button enables the easy transfer of the WPS PIN without having to enter (remember) anything. The whole WPS protocol is junk, and horribly insecure. It looks like an 8-digit PIN (which isn't really long enough to begin with), but it's actually two 4-digit PINs, which can be brute-forced in a couple of hours (because of the timeout period between failed guesses). WPS can never be secure, because the PIN doesn't change.
Here's an older explanation of the problem: czcams.com/video/f9dSEQzWRGw/video.html
@@aaronperlthanks for sharing the video, since comments are disabled I got a question. Can't they fix the protocol, now that every device has a button for WPS? The button allows you to create a single-use password thus making an offline attack impossible. While they are at it they could also make their PIN 4 times as long and split it into 4 (8 digits) pieces.
@@jackkraken3888 if it disables WPS pin and is only active on button push it's not AS bad
I would add that the antennas should be pointing as specified in the manual. Having them lie flat is stealthy, but not very good for signal strength.
Yes but having them not flat also makes your connection better for spammers. As proven by the other comment here. ;)
Most AP antennae nowadays are omnidirectional, so their effective signal range and dispersal pattern/structure isn’t noticeably different at typical home distances.
Having them lie flat can be ok (especially if the router is mounted on a wall). What you really want to avoid is having each antenna pointing in a different direction
Or at least "Having Antennas" for the basic router that the IPS throws at you during installation would be nice too... two rooms down and not even 2.4 gigs will help you to connect throught the concrete walls
Scishow says but them at 45 degrees
Wifi tip: if you can use hardwired for any of your devices, do it.
Here's a pro tip for you:
A. The reason you wait 30s when Unplug and repluging a router is so the capacitors fully discharge and allow the memory to properly clear and reset themselves. Often if you plug device back in before the capacitor can drop enough charge, you'll have new issues on electronics/wifi or just the same issue carried forward. Wait the 30s!
B. I don't know if this still rings true, but:
ISP's provide internet long distances, over that distance noise and distortion on the lines is created. When those full power signals hit your router, if it is too noisy, the router is designed to filter that noise out. Causing small data/speed loss, but creating a more solid connection. As this continues to happen, the signal leaving your router gets less and less, more bottlenecked to create a better connection. This doesn't often clear itself up, so resetting the router will clear those parameters to allow full connection to be provided to the home again.
I think that was more a coax thing? Vs fibre connections.
But the east coast is much further ahead than the West coast... NB had fibre years ago, well before I moved to Calgary and we JUST got fibre to the house last year .. so I doubt smaller areas of BC run on true fibre.
I just make sure to appease the router's machine spirit by performing a ritual every now and then.
Spirit of the Machine, hear my prayer,
And the ritual is unplugging it, waiting 10 seconds, and plugging it in again.
I remember back in 2008, the vocational school I attended to had all their 50 computers connect to a single WiFi router. I guess you guys can imagine how they performed.
Best tip: Buy a router (with ap build in or also buy a seperate ap). Don't use the one from your ISP! It's probably garbage and will give you a lot of frustration
What about the Google WiFi
It doesn't have to be. I work for a major ISP in the Netherlands and we have two models going at the moment which are actually pretty decent. The ZTE H369a for example is a model we use, it still uses the original ZTE WebGUI so every setting can be changed and it also has proper antenna placement. I do agree with you on the fact that some can be garbage, especially because they might have some settings blocked or missing like changing the subnet of your router.
I'm lucky my ISP's modem/router is just made by Cisco, though I still have another AP and two 8 port network switches
@@rossharper1983 Keep in mind that there are leaps of difference between enterprise Cisco equipment and Cisco branded CPE equipment. The Cisco you're thinking of, likely had nothing to do with whatever equipment that is.
@@ToreOnCZcams that's true. However I have 1 gigabit business line so it's an off the shelf Cisco modem that was provided by my ISP
I hadn't seen a proper visualization of a how a signal emanates from a radio like that before. That's really helpful, thank you
it is really cool :)
every one of those antennas has one of those Donuts
the Gain of the antenna changes how squished flat it is
You forgot to mention that there's really only 3 viable non-interfering 20MHz-width channels in 2.4GHz band - 1,6,11. And having neighbour networks on, say, channel 1 and 2 is much much worse than on same channel. Same goes for 5GHz band of course, but there's much more breathing room.
Also - always run your access points at lowest power possible, don't chase 5 bars signal. In some one-room appartment you'll be fine with 10-30 mW, and often with higher speeds than at full 100mW due to better signal-to-noise ratio.
And don't forget ever true communications axiom: if you can use cable - you must use cable.
So... It's better to be on the same channel than one channel away from your neighbor?
You need to be about 4 channels away it sounds like To not get interference? So if you had networks 3 at ch1 2 at ch6 and 1 really strong network on Chanel 10 your best bet would be chanel 6 for a new network?
@@ErrorMessageNotFound that kinda makes sense
@@ErrorMessageNotFound Thank you! :)
He is speaking the language of gods! (I understand what you say, will try it out today)
@@ErrorMessageNotFound Channels 1, 6 and 11. Are these world wide or depends in which part of the world? (Noob here)
Linus: "... can be installed in your backyard in less than a day"
Vancouver Council: "Oh, I don't think so."
My tip is, behind the router there is a spot to connect a Ethernet cable use that instead.
But my wifi toaster doesn't have ethernet port
%100
That's my only complaint about mesh networks. Fast wifi but lacks the ethernet ports. Could remedy that with ethernet switch but still...
Thank you. It works great for my pc but what about everything else?
Great tip! I use this to connect my smartphone when I'm at home and it's super fast
I didn't know WPS was that insecure.
Yeah, It's like a tiny password
It's a horror story almost as bad as those they use in the movies where you can guess each number separately. But I think the push button one is safe, right?
@@jackkraken3888 WPS is the push button. Disable it. Now.
I can confirm that it is VERY insecure. VERY! It is a 8 digit "password", but it's checked in 2 different chunks - 4 digits and 4 digits. So it is actually just a 4 digit password, followed by a 3 digit password (last digit is only a checksum). That's only 11,000 possible combinations out of the 100,000,000 combinations with a real 8 digit password.
@@jima1135 I guess I will have to now.
Linus: "Wifi is supposed to be easy; punch in a password, hit connect and boom you're online"
Students attempting to connect to Eduroam: ...
Linus you forgot to say to *ONLY* use channel 1, 6, and 11 becourse otherwise the channels will overlap and are in the way of each other.
this has solved many problems with network speed. I also wanted to write this
One other thing to make your network more secure: disable admin logins through wireless and select HTTPS as the wired protocol for admin logins.
Don't forget to change the password from "password" as well, lol!
Change pass from Admin to something else also.
Some routers will combine 5GHz and 2.4GHz signals into one SSID, I usually keep them separate to make it easier to find out which one the device in question is connected to.
I agree Hamil. Many Telstra routers here in Australia have this & it is known as Band Steering, which I disable when troubles are experienced & it solves many of them.
@@davidewin6833 Thanks! I knew there was a name but never figured out what it was.
My ISP advises against it claiming that keeping them as the same SSID will allow the network to choose whether 5ghz or 2.4ghz is better, but I think manual is better
@@shaansingh6048 well, you can avoid the router choosing the band by setting your wifi device, which matters, to choose the band.
@@shaansingh6048 I agree with you - ISPs think they know better but I've been a tech for over 30 years & I know what I see.
Much better than the 60 second "shorts" that youtube is really, really trying to push down creators throats
But look at all of that TikTok money!
When I power on my router, it sometimes literally gets stuck at "connecting" when I use my wifi portal to check it's data status. I need to login in to my WiFi settings portal and literally toggle data off and on on it lol. Even a factory reset didn't fix shit, my ISP literally doesn't want to replace it although the router is almost 6 years old lmfao. It uses WiFi 4 sadly, 2.4 GHz only
If it is a 4G LTE router just get a fiber and a compatibile modem from your ISP and buy what router you want but if you are useing a router+modem device I recomend you buy a good router and put that router+modem in modem only mode and connect the new router's WAN PORT TO router+modem's WAN labeld port.
@@that_duck_over_there Well fiber network here is pretty expensive lol and my ISP doesn't provide a modern too :( So looks like I'm rip lol
@@Mystic4rrow do you even really need provider's hardware? i know of only one asshat that really force you to use their router, and even then there are ways around
@@Mystic4rrow Where are you from? And what are you using DSL, 4G LTE, etc.
Call your ISP and ask them to Bridge the connection mate. So you can pass through the Internet connection to your own router. It basically turns the ISP router into a modem so you can use whatever router you want.
Another thing, that proved to work, that if you’re covering one level and need the signal to go as far as it can in horizontal plane you should place antennas in parallel. If you need the signal to spread across different levels, lower and higher from where your router is, then you have to place antennas in 30-40 degrees to the ground
Do you mean all antennas in parallel with each other, but 30-40 degrees from vertical or horizontal?
@@BlacklistBill for maximum range on one floor- perpendicular to the ground and all antennas parallel to each other. For best performance between several floor then 30-40 degrees, like “V”
Some routers has a setting that automatically assign clients to 2.4 Ghz or 5 Ghz and even have it on my default. I like to keep that off if I can and assign manually connect to them myself. It alleviates headaches when trying to remote access into something (especially if you like using playstation remote play or use GeForce Now game streaming.)
normally the device can choose it themselfes, don't they? I had to lower the beacon interval for 2.4GHz to get a stable connection on my phone, that it doesn't always change between 2.4 and 5. But 2.4 only devices still pair with no problem.
I get lightning fast WiFi by connecting the motherboard of my PC to the back of the router with a cable! It improved speed and reliability! Amazing.
That's not wifi tho
@@julius_caesar_grzfz please shut up
@@julius_caesar_grzfz pfft, do you even know how WiFi works bro. The "wi" stands for "wire" and the "fi" stands for "fixed into the back of the computer and router"
I’m forcing my wife to watch the first 2 minutes of this. She’s a hide it in the basement type of person
My tip. Cable everything you can, including every AP you have. Wifi mesh sacrifices throughput for range and is barely worth it. I've gone to Aruba Instant-on after my merakis expired, prior to that Ubiquity and Meru. Couldn't be happier.
WiFi tip: plug in. Embrace the hideous wire tentacles creeping through your house like a Stranger Things episode!
They don't even have to be hideous wire tentacle. Zip-ties are dirt cheap and great for cable management!
@@tenhundredkills Some (many) people have the opinion that any wires running along your walls/floors/ceilings is unsightly. If you want it to look nice, you run them in the walls, but that's usually a much bigger job.
@@Snarethedrummer I agree, having cables inside the walls is MUCH neater than just having them exposed or in cable raceways. If I have my PC hardwired to a switch or WiFi router that's on the same desk, I'm OK with rolling up and zip-tying a few feet of cable. If I wanted to hard-wire a device on the opposite side of the house, then I'd either pull cable up the wall and inside my attic or I'd take the lazy route and use WiFi. No way would I have cables just laying around on the floor - or in the case of one of my clients - taped to the ceiling with masking tape!
I would also add that (assuming your router and devices are compatible) enabling the DFS channel range can be a great way to avoid congestion on the 5Ghz band. This covers two distinct ranges: 5260-5340Mhz (WLAN channels 52-68) and 5480-5720Mhz (channels 96-144) - these were formerly reserved for weather and aviation radar use but no longer exclusively since 2015.
The one major caveat is that there are still a handful of airports with doppler radars operating in this range - wireless routers and access points using DFS need to "pre-scan" for 60-120 seconds prior to broadcasting the signal. Additionally, if the router thinks it's identified a weather radar on the same frequency, something called a "DFS hit" will occur and the router will immediately switch to a different frequency. This is extremely rare, but it can happen if you live very close to a major airport. From my own personal experience, I have two Netgear Enterprise AP's on opposite sides of my house, both of which operate on DFS channels. I'm less than 5 miles (8km) from Logan Airport in Boston and knock on wood, I've never had a DFS hit.
Almost at 4 million subs. Congrats to everyone at LTT.
Instead of hanging the router, why not just flip it? In fact, if signal is really stronger below the AP, why don't manufacturers of residential routers just install the AP upside down?
He said hanging it is better because of the lack of obstructions
I THINK he means that the wifi signal travels downwards (Towards the Earth) due to the forces exerted by the earth, as supposed to literally from the bottom of the router. Hence why keeping the router higher up will ensure a wider field of coverage.
It’s actually a good design for those who have a basement or a 2-story house.
I just keep it right above the door in the middle of the house
Rarely you'll get a modem/router/AP from a provider, where the antennas are external. In the case that they are, you'd not be able to install them "downfiring" as theres probably a table or floor underneath.
I was waiting for so long for a video about the best practices 😄 Thanks people!
This is the first time it's happened to me that the ad in the video is more interesting than the video itself.
Hey @Techquickie - maybe an update on things that cause wifi interference, and solutions to fix them. Microwaves? Malfunctioning LED lights? Read that malfunctioning LED lights might cause RF interference - have some at home and wifi in the nearby room isn't great when the LED lights are on, and appears to get better with the lights off (I don't have diagnostic equipment though).
Interesting. I hope Techquickie can clarify this one.
@S O F I A no prostitutes in the labs please
Setting your router to a certain channel doesn't work in an appartment building. As there are at least 20 other networks in the area that keep auto switching. As you're the only one setting the channel, the others will keep using the same channel whenever it's convenient. You just have to accept not using 2.4GHz at all.
👍🏼
*apartment
This :(
Something else I find can help is to disable MAC address randomisation on devices if they are having trouble staying connected, especially if the device sleeps. Another issue I've commonly come across is a feature known as Wifi PMF (Protected Management Frame), which I've seen cause anything from difficulty to connect & stay connected, poor wifi speeds & also WatchDog Violation BSODs in Windows, so turning this off may possibly help.
I recently ran into an issue like this. My home was not designed or built for radio signals. In fact we basically have a faraday cage in the roof. I had to do some Wizardry with Wi-Fi range extenders to blanket the interior of the house and provide a reasonable amount of coverage Outdoors.
First and foremost, make sure your antenna are parallel. Having them off kilter reduces range and can cause interference reducing maximum throughput.
The hardest part is to explain a customer, that there is no wireless cables in this universe...
wireless wires
I love my 2 Aruba 335 Instant Acess Points (3 SSID's), running off a Aruba 2920 POE+ switch. May I add I love running pfsense with VLANS, NxFilter, Plex, and Blue Iris.
I wish you guys had a video on bufferbloat and OpenWRT/alternative router software. along with this, modem information, while generally regional, could still be addressed for stability across chipsets
download bread
dlc required for toast
My favorite Wi-Fi trick is "Don't use it unless you have to". Wired connections are *ALWAYS* faster and more reliable. Wi-Fi is acceptable for mobile devices like your phone or tablet that move around the house all the time, or even for a laptop that you might take from your home office to the kitchen or living room, etc. Devices that rarely move, on the other hand, like a desktop computer or a set-top box for your TV, should always be connected with an ethernet cable if at all possible. If you cannot run a cable cleanly for whatever reason, then using Powerline networking is still often substantially better than Wi-Fi. By doing this, not only will the devices that are hard-wired perform better, but the reduced traffic on the wireless frequencies will allow those devices that must rely on Wi-Fi to perform better as well.
The pin for WPS isn't mandatory in many implementations. My router allows turning button and pin on/off independently.
My Wireless Technology professor once said:”WIFI? A wonder that it works”
In my old apartment complex the wifi was a mess and almost everyone was on channel 7 because none of the residents ever messed with their router settings. For that same reason though, I was able to crack every wifi signal because they were almost all using the standard WEP encryption, and then log into every router with "admin" and "password" credentials (again, they never changed their basic router settings) and manually place each router on it's own channel, improving internet service for the entire building. No one ever knew.
The hero we don't deserve
@@undeadwilldestroyall don't think for a moment that assigning channels was all he did...
Putting router under metal cage! It really saves me from cancer!
2:00 "[Autonomous Pod] A multi-purpose prefabricated space"
Best Ad I've seen so far from Sebastian ????
I am a Senior Wireless Network Engineer for a University so I know I little about WiFi. When selecting your channels for 2.4 only select 1, 6, or 11, all the other channels overlap and cause interference to 1, 6 or 11 and everyone ends up getting subpar connectivity. Security wise use WPA2 with AES, stay away from NONE or WPA2 (TKIP). Always make sure your antennas on home routers are pointing straight up in the air.
I like to flash on a custom interface on my router that lets me actively monitor bandwith use by all connected devices, in case someone is hogging it all.
Another thing that helps me is having qos rules set for specific priorities. Anything business related takes priority over netflix or steam related use.
How do you do that?
CAKE?
I feel a Managed Switch would do that kind of job better than a router... And those are significantly more pricey.
@@Aereto Theoretically, yes. They usually have better chips (processors) because they're usually found in business applications. Unless you're running a data center in your house, a standard WiFi router should be just fine.
You mentioned the Toaster again, I want you to build a PC within a (maybe still working) Toaster
PS: extra points for a RTX 3090 😂
I recommend a mesh system if you are having trouble connecting around the house, it could help if you have a car that connects to Wi-Fi or if you have a smart sprinkle system.
Also. if your router allows 5ghz channels above 48, check the logs for messages about DFS or Radar. The channels above 48 aren't just for wifi, but have higher priority users like radar, and most routers disable 5ghz wifi if radar is detected on your channel. The channels below 48 are reserved for wifi so they will just keep woring.
⬆️Hit me a direct message I could introduce you to something totally profitable
Look in the first 10-20 pages of the manual for the ideal antenna orientation. You don't know what is connected to each antenna, but the engineers who designed it did. Might have two 2.4ghz antenna, and four 5.8 ghz antennas.
Linus, THANK YOU for using the correct term, “unsecure.” It really puzzles me that so many techies like us are concerned about the emotional state of their “insecure” networking hardware and resources.
As far as I know, insecure means a lack of security/confidence/protection, unsecured means not tied down, and unsecure is not a word, but I'm not claiming to be an expert and languages are really just defined by their usage so use whatever as long as others know what you mean.
dunno... I've had a few routers that seemed to have confidence issues
Except it's the wrong word. "Unsecure" refers to something that's not tied down/physically secured. "Insecure" means lack of metaphorical security, as in with your confidence or your tech.
Either way, no one gives a shit.
New router coming in today, perfect timing for some last minute adjustments - TY
Thought this was an OG LTT TQ video from years ago till i saw the date. I like it
Wi-Fi connected toaster… aka the computer that my teammates are playing on in a league game…
I'm so glad my desktop and game consoles get to enjoy the cat 6 cable run from our router and my room via gigabyte plug and play switch mounted behind my desk.
Next project a fully air gaped network for my retro gaming machines. I'm planning to use a old laptop (or netbook) to network share a usb hard drive to service as a NAS for file sharing and ISO images of my game roms.
U DOING WHAT?
@@kirillgutnik621 lol. Air gapped is the proper term for a computer network with no outside connection internet etc. I learned the term here on youtube funny enough.
Basically I'm going to network my small army of old computers (mainly laptops) together for:
Old school lan multiplayer gaming
Convent file sharing
So a network shared usb hard drive connected to a laptop or netbook can serve as a NAS containing ripped copies of all my retro game's that the other machine's can access as virtual roms, as well as share files,Game updates/patches, and save files. I'm also going to set one of the laptops up as a jukebox for all my music.
@@JohnSmith-xq1pz That`s really cool, keep on! Also cool to know about that now, so thank you=))
Think you should make a fun video showing the result and talking a bit aboud that stuff. mb there are people who would love to see it, idk, I would 4 sure
thumbs up
@@kirillgutnik621 your welcome lol. I've actually played with the idea of becoming a youtuber but with the current state of things I don't know...
If you have to put router in a corner anyway, try to buy one with removable antenna and use a directional antenna facing the home or area you need coverage, there are small portable one available on market for cheap like from A4tech. In my brother home, he had poor coverage in one bedroom but changing router position wasn't viable option, I had a v old (2008) US Robotics directional antenna and replace it for one of the omi antennas and it make coverage much better from 1 signal to 3 signals. Also my router had two antennas so I still retain coverage for rest of the house by leaving one with original omni antenna.
Wifi tip: try and create a balance/distribution of devices on 2.4GHz and 5GHz. This will make it more likely that neither band is using all of its available bandwidth. As one example, if you have 2 tvs which are regularly streaming content at the same time, putting each one on a different frequency makes it less likely to run into bandwidth issues.
1:41 "WiFi connected toaster"
I thought you're gonna put a Switch there. Missed the chance. 🤣
*thought you were gonna
Could you make a video about the best WiFi APs or Routers?
By what standard? The wifi routers he's putting into his new home would probably make the list (the video was a few weeks ago), but they also cost a ten grand or something like that when you add them up.
@@Steamrick Price to performance of course, Linus isnt dumb he wont recommend Ruckus APs
@@Ahmedhkad true
Aside from congestion not all frequency bands support the same output power levels. If you're using an 80MHz bonded channel there is only one high power channel available and it will dramatically out perform all of the other channels. You can end up with a mismatch at with client equipment if the client doesn't support the full output power but the router quite likely has better antennas that might make up for any difference. I didn't realise different channels had different specs and had two wifi zones in my house for a while. Nothing picked the lower power zone even if I was in the same room as the associated router though that is also a function of me having a very good location for my main router.
One thing I've noticed using a WiFi 6 device (the only in my home), is that I get extremely frequent disconnects and horrible speeds from my WiFi 5 ISP router (which they sent me when I signed up for fiber a year back). I've never had issues on other routers (which probably weren't WiFi 6 either) and every other device works correctly, but my tablet is downright unusable on that network.
If I can save 6k off that Pod, I cant imagine how expensive it is.
You do not get 6,000$ off. Price is 21,000$ (like down from 23,000$), and they have same "discount" if you come from Linus affiliate link or directly (tested on different computer).
'a wifi connected toaster" otherwise known as a gaming laptop 😂
Otherwise known as my PS4 slim which I maintain room temperature for 🙃
Jokes on you: i playing games on geforce now/google stadia on my old weak laptop, and i have fullhd 60fps rtx on.
@@Tofu3435 Not only that, you have time to get up and get a glass of water in between clicking the mouse and the gun actually firing!
@@waveformdistortion ur not wrong XD
I always flash AsusWRT-Merlin (in my case XWRT-Vortex) firmware for added performance, features, and security. Stock firmware is always full of security flaws and rarely get any bug fixes.
oh, I got a few. Like congested wifi networks. short guard and what it does, the difference between signal and quality, both the 2.4 and the 5.2 has a short guard interval and impacts range and performance. RTS threshold value in a congested area,. public networks can benefit from heavy device traffic, by changing that value. Also B-G and N conflicts, older devices use different band types. even wifi 6 should still have these settings
Tip #1: Don’t expect a fair competitive gaming experience with wifi.
10 years ago,maybe...now it's not like that.
@@NeoEletto24 I dunno, a single lost packet can result in what is effectively horrendous jitter. Cheaper routers provided by ISPs are likely to drop a bunch too, resulting in the rubber-band effect for players.
Nope its not easy. Heck I finally convinced my parents to let me run a cable from the router to my room and I got a nice run that's barely noticeable. :)
One tip I do recommend is to buy a gaming recommended router and to keep it in or between the room(s) with the most 5Ghz wifi-required devices, like a gaming room, because 2.4ghz devices require less frequency, therefore, being great range wise.
Hilariously, the AP's Telstra uses for NBN in Australia (Arcadyan LH1000, 4G backup if NBN goes down) only support a few devices connecting to 2.4GHz at the same time. 90% of my devices support 5GHz n/ac modes, and I actually get better range on 5GHz than I do 2.4GHz, likely due to the output power set in the firmware of the Arcadyan LH1000
Some types of glass can even restrict wireless signals more so than others. So open a window or a door if maybe you're outside to improve your signal strength.
True
You're still nowhere near the limit of 2.4GHz even if you're watching a few 4k CZcams Video simultaneously, the 2.4GHz band is much faster than you thought
The radios on most routers even some entry level wifi 6 routers suck. Their spec for data throughput is pretty bad considering you'd need to share it with multiple devices.
@@jim4556 don't lowest price new protocal standard automatically means it sucks?
@@josir1994 the ones I looked at were reputable names and the only models they had for the consumer market. About the same price as their "great" wifi 5 models. As of idk like 5 months ago. I didn't look much into the wifi 5 models because I didn't want something already half way phased out. (Most of the tec I'd want the benefits from that I own has wifi 6 capability already) aaand why buy something I plan on useing for the next 4 years as my primary router and then until it dies as an access point later, that's already lacking a potential big upgrade feature.
But yeh. The radios really didn't support the bandwidth I was looking for. I got 1g internet, and damnit I want to atleast be able to use it when not wired. I don't even expect it to a single wireless device. But I atleast want the radio capable of utilizing my full network speed across several devices.
@@josir1994 also. There's sorta alot of asus products that market "capable of connecting to 25 devices" and uh I'm assuming that's useing it's "beam forming" because if I had an expensive router that can only handle 25 devices on a network... I'mma be pretty upset. That's really not hard to do by today's standards.
@@jim4556 at that price difference I would've got the wi-fi 5 one, and I did earlier this year, it's up to spec as far as I've tested with my 1G internet service. But if you need to connect like 25 device simultaneously and also want high bandwidth on wireless then I don't think there's really any cheap option to go for.
Also, I can't agree with wi-fi 5 as half way phased out when it's neither becoming incompatible nor is 1G internet even near the limit of wi-fi 5.
One doesn’t experience self-transcendence, the illusion of self only dissipates-🎈
My favorite trick to for best use of wifi? Use the wired connection whenever and where ever it's practical. Computers, consoles, and set-top boxes/Smart TVs are far less likely to flake on you when streaming, gaming or downloading, and it frees up connections for your wifi if your router has a limit of what can be connected all at once.
*wherever
wireless modem guard interval. i believe most are set to "short".. if there are walls and signal in the other rooms are about less than 90%. for more stable speed, may need to set guard interval to "long".
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Working in tech support for a broadband company I can honestly say wifi is the biggest headache! no customer believes when you try to tell them any of this stuff but instead will use the same excuse of ' it use to work fine 2 years ago' or some bullshit like that instead of educating themselves or let me educate them on how wifi works.
*used to
Covered most of the important items without getting technical, well done.
My WiFi Tips:
-do not use it if you do not have to. Wired is more reliable, period.
-if using 2.4GHz, only use channels 1, 6 and 11. The other channels all overlap and interfere with each other. It is better to have multiple AP's share time on 1, 6 or 11 than to overlap by using channels 2 and 8 (for example). Unless you understand how to use the other channels effectively, the other channels should just not be used.
-if using 5GHz, use any channel that is underutilized in your area, starting from the lowest channel. When they created channels for 5GHz they avoided the overlap issue from 2.4. There are some caveats to this (channel bonding for example), but you can read up on that elsewhere. There is a chart of the channels and how they can be used available somewhere.
-avoid channel bonding if you live in an area with a lot of wifi use. Bonding channels to get more bandwidth sounds wonderful, but many devices do not support it, plus other AP's in the area using any part of your bonded channels will clobber your signal when they transmit.
-lower the broadcast power from high to low. Most AP's ship on their highest setting which just clutters up the airwaves in dense areas. If you live in an apartment even low will reach your phone in the bathroom. A lower broadcast power can result in less signal noise and retransmissions.
-AP positioning: the more line of sight to the AP the better. Determine where you actually use wifi, then move your AP so the least number of obstacles are between the AP and the device. Each wall can drop a signal in half. On the floor behind your metal file cabinet, buried under a pile of power cords is a poor location.
Great vid guys. 2x TPlink 841HP routers works for me in a big (long) house on 2.4.
Question: our house works just great on 2.4ghz and we have a 100mbps line and can achieve around 55to70mbps average over wifi. Would updraging to a wifi 6 router give any more stability or improved speed using 9db antennas like included on the TPlink mentioned above. All new routers seem to have smaller antennas which worry me.
Ie does upgrading the router improve a wifi 2.4 network AT ALL?
I know B, G, N, AC. The wifi numbers confuse me.
My tip is to buy an external access point that is separate from your modem or router. A dedicated wifi AP works wonders where an all in one unit can leave you behind.
That wifi analyzer app is really nice thanks for the tip!
I liked that tip about switching your wi fi channel. Because I live in a gated apartment/community. And we all have to have the same cable company. So switching channels may help
I'm on r/homelab and I like setting up multiple routers in AP mode since our home is constructed in a way that blocks a lot of wifi coverage. Using different wifi channels lets me use the same SSID and password to improve the coverage without having to switch between networks, since our devices will Auto select the strongest channel.
*lets (conjugated form of "to let")
let's = contraction of "let us"
@@alvallac2171 voice typing
I sped up my wifi by making a special cut of clips from certain movies and pushing them to the apple tv and the roku that came onto my network. This solved the problem REALLY fast.
If the range allows, actually switching to 5GHz can improve a sketchy 2.4GHz connection in crowded areas. 5GHz has many more channels available, and the limited range can work in your advantage too as not too many neighbours WiFis will interfere.
I'll leave this little tidbit. For your network, it will operate and run from the slowest standard that device is connected to. EG: If you have 4 devices with the following network standards 3x 802.11ac, and 1x 802.11n, the three AC devices will run at speeds of the N for compatibility of communication. If you're designing your network to use the fastest speeds, make sure you configure your 5GHz band to only run on the highest network standard settings (i.e. ac or ax). Only downside is all of the devices must have that standard on built into their WiFi antennae or it won't connect to the AP.
Frequency band is only one of the things to consider when tuning for speed. Channel width plays a much larger role in my experience, with 40MHz on 2.4GHz and 80MHz or 160MHz on 5GHz offering the best throughput for devices which support it. Be careful with your channel selection though since using wider channels limits what you can select as a center frequency, and most of the consumer access points I've looked at will silently revert to a narrower band if you select an invalid channel.
*edit: grammar.
never use 40mhz on 2.4ghz because it takes up more than half of the channels
@@gamecubeplayer Never is a strong word. Avoid if coexistence with other networks is a concern is a better way to put it.
That said, my comment was about throughput, not keeping your neighbors happy 😀
In congested spaces, it is actually better to be on the same channel as other networks, as opposed to being one or two channels off.
If you move to an overlapped channel (like 9, when there's a bunch of networks on 11 and 6) the other networks are just interference to your signal. But if you are on the same channel as the others, the network will attempt to work together to share the bandwidth available. In heavily congested locations, it's going to suck either way, but allowing the networks to work together may mean it will suck less.
Only if 8+ neighvors who know nothing about this changed tjeir channels as if i look basicly all channels have 2.4ghz nrtworks ON
@@UbixQ There's only 3 different channels in 2.4GHz in NA that don't overlap due to spread spectrum. And in dense apartment buildings, having eight or more WiFi networks coexisting isn't a stretch at all.
5 GHz isn't much better with 160MHz channels in 802.11ax.
Use 40MHz channels for 5GHz. It's a good tradeoff of speed vs range. How does channel width affect range you ask? SPECTRAL POWER DENSITY is lower when you use 80MHz or larger channels because you're radiating the same amount of energy over a wider band of spectrum, so it falls off quicker.
due to where i am in relation to the shared AP, i get a stronger signal from the nearby shops, which interferes heavily with my connection. it's much better after buying a new wifi card, but signal degredation and dropouts occasionally happen still
thinking of running everything wired w/ a single wireless repeater/bridge to connect me to the main network but i don't have the right gear and idk how much it'd actually help
If you need to use the 2.4 band, stick to channels 1,6 and 11. Even though it may be tempting to go in between, you will be subjected to congestion of the adjacent channels making your own performance worse. IP cameras may not take up a lot of bandwidth but will add congestion as they are always transmitting, if they work fine on 5GHz, keep them there! Don't forget other technologies use 2.4 as well, such as BT/BLE, wireless phones, and sources of noise like microwaves can really limit the usefulness of 2.4 for WiFi. WiFi 6 will be improving the 2.4 band, but APs and client devices will obviously have to be compliant to fully leverage the new tech.
For 5GHz, make sure you have the widest channel width set as possible in your AP/router settings! Typically 802.11ac client devices can support up to 80MHz wide channels, and even if your device(s) can only support 20 or 40 MHz wide channels, they will operate at the widest allowed by your AP, so nothing will break if you set it too wide. If you have issues setting the channel width, try another UN-II band, for instance channel 36 on UN-II band 1 can generally support up to 80MHz, UN-II band 3 in the US also has channels that can go very wide, but your AP might not be able to support these channels+widths. The wlan channels wikipedia article is very helpful for figuring out what channels are available for your country as well. Depending on which country you live in, your choice in band can also limit the TX power, so look up that wikipedia article and see if you are using a band/channel labeled as TPC or indoors.
If you happen to have an AP that supports UN-II band 2/2e DFS channels (and you do not live close to a weather station or airport), you will likely have the enitre band to yourself. The only problem being close to something using RADAR can interrupt your service periodically.
I know that multiple wifi signals in an area can have an affect on your wifi connection but how does that work with mesh networks? Wouldn't you just run into the same issue?
A couple of things mentioned and to improve on.
Put as many IOT devices on the 2.4ghz SSID as you can, 1) so many still only have a 2.4 ghz chip anyone 2) their check-ins and lower quality chips drag down network performance 3) setup is easier when you have the separated names.
Keep your WAP high up, out in the open, and away from any devices any RF.
If you need to fill in any WiFi deadzones, use a wired backbone for additional WAPs. Mesh networks are mostly easy to setup and place but they use a wireless backbone and adding too many will drag down network performance.
WiFi 6 WAPs that support OFDMA will future proof you, though the cost will be higher and it will take time to see the full benefits.
Change your default WiFi names and passwords. And don’t pick FBI surveillance Van.
Regarding WPS I turned off the pin option but left the push button on. I think this is the best of both worlds for me. I also regularly monitor who is connected to the network to identify rogue devices.
I have seen Wi-Fi drivers being updated to the latest available ..really helping with the speeds sometimes. I don;t know how common this is, but if the available drivers are really old, this could help too.
I know a lot of people have trouble setting up networks with multiple access points. Things like having multiple DHCP servers or using the WAN port on both access points.
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You don't need an expensive mesh wifi system, if that is what you are looking for. Used Ruckuss satellite devices are $50-$60 each on eBay or other places. Getting 2-3 of those and a PoE switch to power them will still cost you less than the basic consumer grade mesh system, provide you more customization, and much better coverage. We have 4x Ruckuss devices around our 2,400 sq ft home... you can stream media from anywhere on our property.
To get better WiFi, I just use an old router and configure it as a access point (AP) and place it in a dead space in my house. The trick is getting a ethernet cable from the dead space to the main router. Also if you don't have a old router laying around, you can usually get a cheap one from a thrift store like good will and such, and use that as a AP.
*an access
*an Ethernet
*an old
*an AP
(Because these words start with a vowel sound)
I don't know if I'm doing it wrong, but all this 2.4 & 5 GHz thing is backwards for me. In my home, wherever is the router, it is always that there are corners of the room where 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi is dead and 5 GHz is at least working. When I had both bands turned on and I struggled to connect on any device from a far away corner of the room, it always was that the device jumped to 2.4 GHz - switched it to 5 and it works. For the same reason Wi-Fi 4 (n)-only devices are getting, like, a couple of MBit/s everywhere, so I upgraded my router to 5 GHz AC and 5 GHz is fine in every room. It could be just that the 2.4 GHz range is really crowded in my neighborhood, but I couldn't qulte confirm that - the WiFi channel scanner is showing quite a clean picture and there is only like 7-8 2.4 GHz networks around. But 2.4 band is used by a lot of wireless equipment, so... if the 2.4 GHz connection doesn't work for you, it may be worth trying to inverse logic and try 5 GHz.
So then I have disabled SSID broadcast on my 2.4 GHz so that all of my devices don't try to connect to it (still need that band for some smart home appliances) and never had any issues or dead corners since then. But older WiFi n devices are basically non-functional behind the first wall.