REVISION OF YOUR REVISED TOOL lol. We always take a cue from other thinkers and you inspired me. Instead of using a bolt, I drilled a relief hole 3" from one end of a 10" length of 1/2" rebar. Then I split the rebar up to the hole as you did on the bolt. I ground one end of a 16" length of 1/2" rebar to act as a wedge since I didn't have a screwdriver long enough. The "ribs" on the rebar acted to grip the inner race and/or the tube spacer. Tapping on the opposite end of the screwdriver-wedge drove the bearing out suprisingly easy. Thanks for your video. I had two wheels to do on MB200 bikes so this was a real time saving idea (once I watched your two videos, slept on your idea, and manufactured the rebar).😊
I like that one even better! I might even make one. Seems like you could also easily make a nice puller out of this, with a longer threaded bolt, etc.. Those cheap pullers from Amazon look like such garbage, at least this would be strong.
Yeah I was surprised how well it worked myself. Funny how you can buy something for $30 and it doesn’t work. Or make something in 5 mins for free and it works better.
Thanks for the quick response Don’t have access to weld equip - I’m more of a novice wood worker I’ll probably just knock the remaining bearing out to give me straighter shot down the wheel shaft tube and get something like relatively large diameter pipe with sharp flat end
Probably the best bet. If one bearing went out I’m sure the other one is close to it. Plus bearings are dirt cheap. The ones I used where only $10 for 4. Another alternative is to go to your local auto parts store and see if they will rent out a slide hammer and a pilot bearing puller tip. You install the puller tip into the hole and it will expand to grip the race. THen use the slide hammer to wack it out. Most of the big chains rent the tool for free as long as you put down a deposit.
I have the situation where sprocket side bearing is completely destroyed but the outer race is still seated in the wheel The opposite side bearing is still in and appears to be good Any good ideas how to remove? Going to try a piece of steel rod from the opposite end and try to catch the small bit of bearing race edge ...?
Robo Guy if it was me and the outer race is the only thing left, I would weld a bead all the way around the inside of the race. When the weld cools it will contract and the race will fall out.
Tbh, a long flathead and a hammer worked pretty well. Took more time to find a long enough flathead than it did punching them out. It destroyed the old ones, but that's okay. The inner cylinder can be pushed over quite a bit, giving you ample room to f*@$ s!*# up. Just my two cents.
Leslie Mclean if you are looking for something already made, look at getting a “blind bearing extractor set”. It’s similar to the split screw but comes with a slide hammer to attach to it so you can slide hammer the bearing out. Also called blind hole bearing puller.
Man I was n tractor supply other day wow prices. Cut off wheels and grinding disk. Little ones 5”. Hardly any on shelves to pick from to. Sanding flap disk. Holy smoly. Everything going go to diy, homemade or something.
REVISION OF YOUR REVISED TOOL lol.
We always take a cue from other thinkers and you inspired me. Instead of using a bolt, I drilled a relief hole 3" from one end of a 10" length of 1/2" rebar. Then I split the rebar up to the hole as you did on the bolt. I ground one end of a 16" length of 1/2" rebar to act as a wedge since I didn't have a screwdriver long enough. The "ribs" on the rebar acted to grip the inner race and/or the tube spacer. Tapping on the opposite end of the screwdriver-wedge drove the bearing out suprisingly easy. Thanks for your video. I had two wheels to do on MB200 bikes so this was a real time saving idea (once I watched your two videos, slept on your idea, and manufactured the rebar).😊
That’s interesting on using the ribs. Trying to wrap my head around the relief hole. Drilling into the rebar radially? What is the purpose of it?
@@TheVintageEngineer I did drill it radially, just seemed a good idea. Call it the deluxe model haha. Adds to the value.
Very well done thanks for sharing your ideas!
I like that one even better! I might even make one. Seems like you could also easily make a nice puller out of this, with a longer threaded bolt, etc.. Those cheap pullers from Amazon look like such garbage, at least this would be strong.
Very good. Your version works better than buying a blind hole puller, I know I’ve tried. Merry Christmas 🇨🇦🥶
Yeah I was surprised how well it worked myself. Funny how you can buy something for $30 and it doesn’t work. Or make something in 5 mins for free and it works better.
Hell yeah nascar of Coleman mini bikes. Lol. Love video’s brother.
That was definitely helpful 😂💯
Thanks for the quick response
Don’t have access to weld equip - I’m more of a novice wood worker
I’ll probably just knock the remaining bearing out to give me straighter shot down the wheel shaft tube and get something like relatively large diameter pipe with sharp flat end
Probably the best bet. If one bearing went out I’m sure the other one is close to it. Plus bearings are dirt cheap. The ones I used where only $10 for 4. Another alternative is to go to your local auto parts store and see if they will rent out a slide hammer and a pilot bearing puller tip. You install the puller tip into the hole and it will expand to grip the race. THen use the slide hammer to wack it out. Most of the big chains rent the tool for free as long as you put down a deposit.
VERY COOL THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
Great method!
Brilliant!
Awsome.
Just bought one and my front tire is wobbly. I don't know if it's the bearings . Or wheel.
I have the situation where sprocket side bearing is completely destroyed but the outer race is still seated in the wheel
The opposite side bearing is still in and appears to be good
Any good ideas how to remove?
Going to try a piece of steel rod from the opposite end and try to catch the small bit of bearing race edge ...?
Robo Guy if it was me and the outer race is the only thing left, I would weld a bead all the way around the inside of the race. When the weld cools it will contract and the race will fall out.
Robo Guy here’s a video of a guy doing what I’m talking about czcams.com/video/GhKVaWJnRHQ/video.html
Tbh, a long flathead and a hammer worked pretty well. Took more time to find a long enough flathead than it did punching them out. It destroyed the old ones, but that's okay. The inner cylinder can be pushed over quite a bit, giving you ample room to f*@$ s!*# up. Just my two cents.
Are you going to mass produce that kool looking two piece wheel bearing extractor.
Leslie Mclean if you are looking for something already made, look at getting a “blind bearing extractor set”. It’s similar to the split screw but comes with a slide hammer to attach to it so you can slide hammer the bearing out. Also called blind hole bearing puller.
I know it’s been a few years and you probably won’t see this, but what are you using to seat the bearing…What goes inside pvc that you are hitting?
Just a big socket (1/2” drive impact one). Diameter needs to be the size of the outer race of the bearing.
Perfect. Thank you!
What size is that bearing
6202-2rs if I remember correctly. Look at the video before this one and I think I talk about it
these bearing are shit and wayyyy to small for the weight of machine and cargo. anybody make an upgrade?
Hit it a few seconds with a Harbor Freight 63641, it makes re-installation of the bearings easy!
Man I was n tractor supply other day wow prices. Cut off wheels and grinding disk. Little ones 5”. Hardly any on shelves to pick from to. Sanding flap disk. Holy smoly. Everything going go to diy, homemade or something.