dude thanks i found a coleman ct200u with a broken throttle, starter, and brakes. after fixing the starter and throttle, the brakes were still broken, so i ordered new brakes and followed this tutorial and voila! thanks dude! helps a lot!
I know this video has been around for a while now, but thanks for another great video on the Coleman CT200U! I followed your earlier videos to replace the crankshaft so I could put a torque converter on mine, and then I found this one when I was looking for solutions to the original brake shoe squeaks. The original shoes were were incredibly loud and their braking ability was un-inspiring but the new ones that you linked to work great and don't make a sound. I also found that my bike had a slight mistake from the factory...the washer on the left side of rear axle was up against the wheel instead of being on the frame side of the spacer, so the wheel wasn't turning as freely as it should. Thanks!
Adam Van Ornum great to hear. I will say these pads will make noise if the bike sits for a little bit but it goes away after a couple of hard brakes into its first drive.
Thanks! I put the EBC Grooved Brake Shoes 304G on my BT200x and it worked out prefect. The brakes feel much better and they do not squeal at all. They are much easier to install than stock as well.
I found it helps with wheel/ axle removal is I loosened up the rack mounts from the rack up top, and then tighten them back up last thing after I'm done adjusting chain tension.
I just installed my new slotted brakes and there absolutely no running inside the brake hub when I spin the tire.I think your right about an out of round hub.
Hey there I bought a new brake handle for my ct200. Sadly the brake cable area was a bit longer than the stock handle which causes the disc brake to be actuated. Even if I adjust the brake adjustment knob on the tire all the way out it’s still actuated. Is there any way to adjust the drum brake itself or do I have to buy a new longer cable?
You can loosen the bolt that goes through the end of brake arm on the back assembly. It’s the clamping bolt. Then you can slide the arm off and “reclock” it away. You might have to take the drum apart to get it fully seated back down (applying force from within to keep the splined rod pushed out while you push the arm on).
Great and helpful video thank you. I have a question regarding adjusting the breaks. Do you adjust/tighten the break nut down just enough so as to allow the wheel to spin freely? I noticed that you were doing all of this with the mini bike up on jacks. That makes sense. What type of jacks do you have? Where did you get them? How right do you tighten the axel nut? Is there a specific torque? Finally, a video on how to put a tire onto a rim would be great. Or do you have a link for how to do that? I need help learning how to do that. Thanks again, great help!
Try to put the nut back on the number of threads it was before then do fine adjustments at the handle. 8$ for jackstands at Walmart or harbor freight Just tighten the axle nut without going crazy like its a car.. Usually mounting a tire you need soapy water and pry bars or big flat head screw drivers just just search a video anywhere.
How many tooth is the rear sprocket on The ct200U? I’m trying to figure a gear ratio to get better speed and still have some torque. I looked at 15T crank sprockets but seeing mainly 10T and 12T on the clutch and I’m trying to get a 3 to 1 ratio. I bought 10 ft of #35 chain but have a feeling I should of went beefier.
Now when my back tire turns the chain will tighten up then loosen up.. no clue what is making it do that.. any idea? And it squeaks about a ¼ of tire rotation
After adjusting the brake tension. i cant get the chain back on. Its like im exactly one link short. I even undid the chain tension completely and loosened the axle bolt. Am i doing something worng here
Those are pretty nice shoes. One of the problems is that water/mud can enter the drum area. Especially after washing it. The bike then sits on the kickstand and the water causes corrosion on the drum. After riding in mud the bike should be washed then leaned over for a while to let the water drip out of the drum area. Or better yet, pull the back wheel and clean it out after washing it. Looks like your sprocket is showing signs of wear.
@@funonvancouverisland I would say misalignment and lack of maintenance more so than too tight or loose. I've used a few different ways to maintain chain and sprocket. For any chain maintenance I remove the chain. For real muddy I use the hose and a brush, then get out the WD40 and a brush to finish it off. The last time I cleaned my chain it wasn't too bad so I used brake clean. And I do clean the sprockets. How you lube it is up to you. On the CT200U some of us have found that you shouldn't adjust the axle adjusters equally. If you do the rear sprocket does not align to the engine/sprocket whether a jackshaft or torque converter. I have found that the brake side needs to be 1/8" further back than the sprocket side for the closest alignment. I found this with a straight edge back tire and sprocket on and engine off the bike. Straight edge from the sprocket to the engine plate with bolt holes and other reference points. The alignment thing is not just my one bike, it's both of my bikes. Also noticed by "BWX" who also made an appearance in this comment section. My 200U's were manufactured in 2016. I have no knowledge whether this applies to the other Coleman 200 models or not. I never had a problem with my brakes. They have the original shoes and springs. One guy on CZcams went back to the Coleman brakes because one of his springs broke while riding.
Good video, I notice someone got the order of spacer and washer out of order on your bike. Since the washer has the more precise hole than the spacer, the washer should be against the bearing and not the spacer.
Thanks. The spacer against the bearing was the way it was from factory and how Coleman shows it in their exploded parts diagrams. The washer must be placed against the frame, because it is a slotted hole.
@@TheVintageEngineer that doesn't properly support the inner race of the bearing then because the spacers they used are sloppy but they work perfectly fine against the frame. Mine is a late production 2019 and that is the way it came from the factory. I'm thinking they must have figured out a better way. The diagram can be incorrect. If you notice the front diagram shows putting washers up against the inner bearing race which is the mechanically correct way to assemble an axle wheel assembly. The rear shows no washer on the brake side which also has a slotted frame so the washer is not needed for the slot. I believe the drawing shows the washer out of correct mechanical position. The first thing to go up against the rear bearings inner race should be the washer as that would be mechanically correct. I believe they revised this at the factory or the person putting mine together realized the mistake in the drawing and assembled mine in the mechanically correct parts sequence.
@@Mbuzz49x my factory ones squeal and a bunch of guys in the FB groups have issues with the stock ones as well. The EBC brakes are significantly better in regards to noise and stopping power.
Another crazy thing is that my frame is not square! If I measure the threads on the adjusters, my wheel is crooked, because one side of the axle is farther forward. Red Beard saw the same thing on his trike build. Maybe the jig was not adjusted right on a batch or something? Hard to say.
The frame in the rear is kind of odd looking alignment wise on these bikes. You kinda do a double take when you look at it. Seems like something is off. Might be due to it's offset design.
@@TheVintageEngineer I verified what BWX is saying is correct. The brake side axle needs to go further back than the sprocket side. If you set them up equal the alignment will be pretty far off. And more so with the larger sprocket you are using. I measured using a long straight edge with the engine and sprocket off the bike looking at the engine plate versus the back tire alignment. And of course it will matter how the engine ends up in it's mounting holes. My DOM is October 2016. I recently decided to put this NOS bike together but this one is getting mods unlike my other stock 200U. I decided to measure because the bike is already apart.
Keep in mind, inside that Chinese drum is full of asbestos. Do not breathe in the drum dust as you're sanding/buffing it. Yes, it's been confirmed and thanks for the video.
Asbestos is an amazing and useful thing...until it gets air born. You wouldn't believe what I used to do when I was a young and careless mechanic. Clutch jobs, brake jobs...Just blow the dust off with compressed air to clean it. Yep I did it. Haven't paid the price, yet. Covid is nothing compared to me needing a mask back then.
Never heard if a clicking. Have you tried jacking the rear up and spinning the tire by hand at slow speed with the brake slightly applied to pin point the sound?
East Coast Homesteading just confirmed on go powersports website on the wheels description :”Rear 8" rim for Trailmaster MB200, Baja Warrior and ColemanCT200UEX. Comes with 6202 bearings.”
Here's what I'm experiencing with one of my CT200U's, and I have very limited experience working on small engines and brakes so bear with me, hopefully someone can help. I ride mine pretty hard, and within 2 weeks am having issues with the chain popping off, brake tension, and the engine shakes like crazy (it had a lot of vibration out of box compared to my other ct). If I tighten the brake adjustment nut in, the back wheel rubs too much and the brake lever is very loose. The brakes barely stop the bike. I used to be able to stop on a dime and the rear wheel didn't rub as much. I'm going to pull everything apart on the rear axle and follow this tutorial to address the brake tension issue.. but, my question is what if the engine has moved on the frame? Are all these issues tied together if the engine moved back? It would explain the brake tension and the chain slipping off.. Should I adjust the engine first? Should I push it as far forward as possible before locking it down? The gas cap is very loose on this bike too.. could this be causing the crazy engine vibrations? Or would loose mounting cause this? I cannot shake the engine on the frame, it doesn't appear to be loose.
If the engine moved back a bit then your chain tension and brakes would be loose. Has your master link been popping off? If so make sure the open mouth of the master link retainer is facing away from the direction of rotation. In other words, the open part if installed on the top rung should be facing the rear. That way, if it somehow is rotating and contacts something it won't get knocked off.
Anthony Shelton thanks for the reply, no the master link has not popped off. The chain has popped off a couple times. Should I push the engine as far forward as possible then follow these steps for brake/chain calibration?
Top Shop Woodworks doesn’t hurt try. I would keep the chain attached and push the engine forward to take up the slack. Then use the procedure to tighten it up more. Make sure the sprocket (front) is inline and parallel with the rear sprocket. If the engine is rotated in the frame it can cause misalignment and cause a chain to pop off.
Lol, you ever get those dinks making you feel you have never done enough threw coding! God here's another task I did that was tough and remembered because of this video! I rebuilt rear drum brakes on a car when I was younger! I would have sooner been out having fun! And I did, I sold the car and bought a faster one! That's just me! For the sake of not suggesting anything to could harm anything of value
No just the 2 6202-2rs bearings in the wheels. Axle doesn’t turn in the shoe assembly. The inner “Race” of the show assembly pushes against the inner race of the bearing of the wheel.
@@TheVintageEngineer Okay thank you. Then mine must have a flaw in the drum were it seats to the bearing .When I tighten the axle bolt the wheel seizes up. This bike was bought new but had seized wheel bearings out the box which I replaced but same thing I snug the axle bolt down the wheel will not spin.
What about the other side? You got a washer or spacer pressing against just the inner race of the bearing? You put bearing spacing tube back in the wheel right?
Wow, I just can't figure how this could be happening, brake assembly scrapping the inside of the brake drum. Any ideas, here's a link to my issue... czcams.com/video/ZnpopOOCNog/video.html and how it sounds installed (chain off)... czcams.com/video/Ng1Kbkppt_4/video.html
dude thanks i found a coleman ct200u with a broken throttle, starter, and brakes. after fixing the starter and throttle, the brakes were still broken, so i ordered new brakes and followed this tutorial and voila!
thanks dude! helps a lot!
Just saw you remove rear wheel on your ct200u, loved it, I have to replace rear bearings on mine, now I have confidence to do it, glad we met, thanks.
I learned a few things watching this video this is one of the best in clearest video I watched on maintaining mini bike
I know this video has been around for a while now, but thanks for another great video on the Coleman CT200U! I followed your earlier videos to replace the crankshaft so I could put a torque converter on mine, and then I found this one when I was looking for solutions to the original brake shoe squeaks. The original shoes were were incredibly loud and their braking ability was un-inspiring but the new ones that you linked to work great and don't make a sound. I also found that my bike had a slight mistake from the factory...the washer on the left side of rear axle was up against the wheel instead of being on the frame side of the spacer, so the wheel wasn't turning as freely as it should. Thanks!
Adam Van Ornum great to hear. I will say these pads will make noise if the bike sits for a little bit but it goes away after a couple of hard brakes into its first drive.
Thanks for taking the time to make/ post this video. Big help! Appreciate it!!
Thanks! I put the EBC Grooved Brake Shoes 304G on my BT200x and it worked out prefect. The brakes feel much better and they do not squeal at all. They are much easier to install than stock as well.
Now just find a rear wheel and put it up front and you can stop on a dime. Video on that is also on my channel.
@@TheVintageEngineerany videos on how this is done?
Anthony you did a great job explaining the brakes.
I found it helps with wheel/ axle removal is I loosened up the rack mounts from the rack up top, and then tighten them back up last thing after I'm done adjusting chain tension.
Working on motorcycles, I always smeared some chassis grease on the axle before installing it. Maybe it'll require less hammering next time.
There was no grease on the stock setup on those posts and cam so I added some onto the new ones and I think that helped a lot with lever effort!
Thought it would be a pain in the ass to fix but that was simple. Thanks!!
Great video.... exactly what I needed! Thanks!
Great video now I’m not dreading changing the shoes on my Coleman
Thank you sir. Just what I needed...
What size bolt is holding the cam arm closed and dimensions? Also, my bolt fell off and my brakes don't work at the moment. Any advice? Thanks
I just installed my new slotted brakes and there absolutely no running inside the brake hub when I spin the tire.I think your right about an out of round hub.
Thanks very helpful advice I really needed the tips.
how do you tighten these brakes i recently bought ct200 u ex and i’m not sure if they need to be changed or just tightened
Great Video very useful now I know how to do them, nothing like a car🤣
Great show have not seen what goes in what order on any other video
Love your videos!
Thank you!
i have a coleman ctu200 ex and it’s so hard to find fixes but i think this one is the same as that one
Great tutorial, thanks!
Hey there I bought a new brake handle for my ct200. Sadly the brake cable area was a bit longer than the stock handle which causes the disc brake to be actuated. Even if I adjust the brake adjustment knob on the tire all the way out it’s still actuated. Is there any way to adjust the drum brake itself or do I have to buy a new longer cable?
You can loosen the bolt that goes through the end of brake arm on the back assembly. It’s the clamping bolt. Then you can slide the arm off and “reclock” it away. You might have to take the drum apart to get it fully seated back down (applying force from within to keep the splined rod pushed out while you push the arm on).
Thanks for the video
Super helpful, good video bro
Very informative.
very helpful video thanks.
Awesome work
Thank you!
thank you sir, helped and alot!
Great and helpful video thank you. I have a question regarding adjusting the breaks. Do you adjust/tighten the break nut down just enough so as to allow the wheel to spin freely?
I noticed that you were doing all of this with the mini bike up on jacks. That makes sense. What type of jacks do you have? Where did you get them?
How right do you tighten the axel nut? Is there a specific torque?
Finally, a video on how to put a tire onto a rim would be great. Or do you have a link for how to do that? I need help learning how to do that. Thanks again, great help!
Try to put the nut back on the number of threads it was before then do fine adjustments at the handle.
8$ for jackstands at Walmart or harbor freight
Just tighten the axle nut without going crazy like its a car..
Usually mounting a tire you need soapy water and pry bars or big flat head screw drivers just just search a video anywhere.
How many tooth is the rear sprocket on The ct200U? I’m trying to figure a gear ratio to get better speed and still have some torque. I looked at 15T crank sprockets but seeing mainly 10T and 12T on the clutch and I’m trying to get a 3 to 1 ratio. I bought 10 ft of #35 chain but have a feeling I should of went beefier.
Captainkleen 50
Anthony Shelton Thanks I was in the 50 ballpark seeing how I’ll leave the 12 T on the crank but if I can find a 14 or 15T I’ll get one.
Does this also work for ct200u ex
Now when my back tire turns the chain will tighten up then loosen up.. no clue what is making it do that.. any idea? And it squeaks about a ¼ of tire rotation
You replace the brakes?
do the brakes still work after so long? i’m planning on getting them my bike does 48mph so i need good stopping power do u suggest these or another?
They don’t fade like the originals do.
After adjusting the brake tension. i cant get the chain back on. Its like im exactly one link short. I even undid the chain tension completely and loosened the axle bolt. Am i doing something worng here
Put the wheel on and push it all the way forward and leave the adjustment nuts off thetensioners. Put the chain on then adjust the chain tension.
Where did you get the brake shoes ? Do you have a part number ?
William Molchan link is in description
Those are pretty nice shoes. One of the problems is that water/mud can enter the drum area. Especially after washing it. The bike then sits on the kickstand and the water causes corrosion on the drum. After riding in mud the bike should be washed then leaned over for a while to let the water drip out of the drum area. Or better yet, pull the back wheel and clean it out after washing it. Looks like your sprocket is showing signs of wear.
Chain to tight or loose causing wear on sprocket? What's the best way to clean it out after a muddy ride without having to take the back tire off?
@@funonvancouverisland I would say misalignment and lack of maintenance more so than too tight or loose.
I've used a few different ways to maintain chain and sprocket. For any chain maintenance I remove the chain. For real muddy I use the hose and a brush, then get out the WD40 and a brush to finish it off. The last time I cleaned my chain it wasn't too bad so I used brake clean. And I do clean the sprockets. How you lube it is up to you.
On the CT200U some of us have found that you shouldn't adjust the axle adjusters equally. If you do the rear sprocket does not align to the engine/sprocket whether a jackshaft or torque converter. I have found that the brake side needs to be 1/8" further back than the sprocket side for the closest alignment. I found this with a straight edge back tire and sprocket on and engine off the bike. Straight edge from the sprocket to the engine plate with bolt holes and other reference points.
The alignment thing is not just my one bike, it's both of my bikes. Also noticed by "BWX" who also made an appearance in this comment section. My 200U's were manufactured in 2016. I have no knowledge whether this applies to the other Coleman 200 models or not.
I never had a problem with my brakes. They have the original shoes and springs. One guy on CZcams went back to the Coleman brakes because one of his springs broke while riding.
@@Deucealive75 thanks man, couldn't ask for a more detailed response. I have 2021 model and just want to take care of it
@@funonvancouverisland You're welcome. Best of luck with your bike. Ride safe.
Thank you 🤙🤙🤙
these brakes work great but my bike is just too fast for them any tips?
Get a 2nd brake setup for the front wheel. Either another rear wheel drum or they make disc brake kits
What size sprokets are you running front and back?
MyBackHurtz1 8 tooth front and 72 tooth rear
@@TheVintageEngineer stock?
big help!!!
Al Hodge glad to hear it!
What length brake cable are you using?
Just what ever the factory one is
Good video, I notice someone got the order of spacer and washer out of order on your bike. Since the washer has the more precise hole than the spacer, the washer should be against the bearing and not the spacer.
Thanks. The spacer against the bearing was the way it was from factory and how Coleman shows it in their exploded parts diagrams. The washer must be placed against the frame, because it is a slotted hole.
@@TheVintageEngineer that doesn't properly support the inner race of the bearing then because the spacers they used are sloppy but they work perfectly fine against the frame. Mine is a late production 2019 and that is the way it came from the factory. I'm thinking they must have figured out a better way. The diagram can be incorrect. If you notice the front diagram shows putting washers up against the inner bearing race which is the mechanically correct way to assemble an axle wheel assembly. The rear shows no washer on the brake side which also has a slotted frame so the washer is not needed for the slot. I believe the drawing shows the washer out of correct mechanical position. The first thing to go up against the rear bearings inner race should be the washer as that would be mechanically correct. I believe they revised this at the factory or the person putting mine together realized the mistake in the drawing and assembled mine in the mechanically correct parts sequence.
Mine is September 2016. Do you only have one washer on the left side?
@@TheVintageEngineer would have loved a response for comparison against my 2021 model
Can a hydraulic disc brake be installed on this bike?
If you fabricate a bracket I don’t see why not. Also have to figure a way to mount the disc
@@TheVintageEngineer can u do a video on it pls? I cannot find any ct200u with hydraulic brakes
So maybe I missed it, but what exactly is causing the sqeaking?
The factory brakes all squeal.
@@TheVintageEngineer so the upgraded ones won’t? The stock ones will squeal no matter what?
@@Mbuzz49x my factory ones squeal and a bunch of guys in the FB groups have issues with the stock ones as well. The EBC brakes are significantly better in regards to noise and stopping power.
Another crazy thing is that my frame is not square! If I measure the threads on the adjusters, my wheel is crooked, because one side of the axle is farther forward. Red Beard saw the same thing on his trike build. Maybe the jig was not adjusted right on a batch or something? Hard to say.
I may take some measurements later to see if mine is out, visually looks fine.
The frame in the rear is kind of odd looking alignment wise on these bikes. You kinda do a double take when you look at it. Seems like something is off. Might be due to it's offset design.
Mine is the same way I just put a SL 100 front frame section on and it was out almost a quarter inch
@@TheVintageEngineer I verified what BWX is saying is correct. The brake side axle needs to go further back than the sprocket side. If you set them up equal the alignment will be pretty far off. And more so with the larger sprocket you are using. I measured using a long straight edge with the engine and sprocket off the bike looking at the engine plate versus the back tire alignment. And of course it will matter how the engine ends up in it's mounting holes. My DOM is October 2016. I recently decided to put this NOS bike together but this one is getting mods unlike my other stock 200U. I decided to measure because the bike is already apart.
Why is your back sprocket as big as your rim
It’s 72 tooth sprocket. Tons of torque!
Keep in mind, inside that Chinese drum is full of asbestos. Do not breathe in the drum dust as you're sanding/buffing it. Yes, it's been confirmed and thanks for the video.
Confirmed by who?
Asbestos is in everything man
Asbestos is an amazing and useful thing...until it gets air born. You wouldn't believe what I used to do when I was a young and careless mechanic. Clutch jobs, brake jobs...Just blow the dust off with compressed air to clean it. Yep I did it. Haven't paid the price, yet. Covid is nothing compared to me needing a mask back then.
When I push my brakes I gets clicking noise it stops and everything but I think something is wrong
Never heard if a clicking. Have you tried jacking the rear up and spinning the tire by hand at slow speed with the brake slightly applied to pin point the sound?
Mine don't last more than a week ever the cable always jams up I replace that five times so far help it's been doing this right out of the damn box
CreepyMonkey HeadGame cable jams or is the brake lever arm at the drum jamming?
Does anyone know if these will fit a baja warrior 200?
East Coast Homesteading they should. Last time I checked they use the same wheel.
East Coast Homesteading just confirmed on go powersports website on the wheels description :”Rear 8" rim for Trailmaster MB200, Baja Warrior and ColemanCT200UEX. Comes with 6202 bearings.”
Ok thanks man
My back wheel it’s tight 😭I don’t know what Can I do
Brakes might be adjusted too tight.
Here's what I'm experiencing with one of my CT200U's, and I have very limited experience working on small engines and brakes so bear with me, hopefully someone can help. I ride mine pretty hard, and within 2 weeks am having issues with the chain popping off, brake tension, and the engine shakes like crazy (it had a lot of vibration out of box compared to my other ct).
If I tighten the brake adjustment nut in, the back wheel rubs too much and the brake lever is very loose. The brakes barely stop the bike. I used to be able to stop on a dime and the rear wheel didn't rub as much. I'm going to pull everything apart on the rear axle and follow this tutorial to address the brake tension issue.. but, my question is what if the engine has moved on the frame? Are all these issues tied together if the engine moved back? It would explain the brake tension and the chain slipping off.. Should I adjust the engine first? Should I push it as far forward as possible before locking it down?
The gas cap is very loose on this bike too.. could this be causing the crazy engine vibrations? Or would loose mounting cause this? I cannot shake the engine on the frame, it doesn't appear to be loose.
If the engine moved back a bit then your chain tension and brakes would be loose. Has your master link been popping off? If so make sure the open mouth of the master link retainer is facing away from the direction of rotation. In other words, the open part if installed on the top rung should be facing the rear. That way, if it somehow is rotating and contacts something it won't get knocked off.
Anthony Shelton thanks for the reply, no the master link has not popped off. The chain has popped off a couple times. Should I push the engine as far forward as possible then follow these steps for brake/chain calibration?
Top Shop Woodworks doesn’t hurt try. I would keep the chain attached and push the engine forward to take up the slack. Then use the procedure to tighten it up more. Make sure the sprocket (front) is inline and parallel with the rear sprocket. If the engine is rotated in the frame it can cause misalignment and cause a chain to pop off.
I'm having issues removing my rear axle. I bought a mallet and i hit it but it won't budge. Can anyone help me out?
George Vega have you tried turning the bolt? May need to switch to metal hammer and a block of wood to prevent mushrooming the tip.
Yes I did but it's stuck. I just bought PB blaster and hopefully it comes out
George Vega hop on over to Facebook and post in the “Coleman CT200u BT200x family” group.
@@TheVintageEngineer thank you I will!
Lol, you ever get those dinks making you feel you have never done enough threw coding! God here's another task I did that was tough and remembered because of this video! I rebuilt rear drum brakes on a car when I was younger! I would have sooner been out having fun! And I did, I sold the car and bought a faster one! That's just me! For the sake of not suggesting anything to could harm anything of value
My brake handle won’t return what do I do
Brakes adjusted correctly? Sounds like the brake cable isn’t tight.
Is there a bearing inside the brake drum?
No just the 2 6202-2rs bearings in the wheels. Axle doesn’t turn in the shoe assembly. The inner “Race” of the show assembly pushes against the inner race of the bearing of the wheel.
@@TheVintageEngineer Okay thank you.
Then mine must have a flaw in the drum were it seats to the bearing .When I tighten the axle bolt the wheel seizes up. This bike was bought new but had seized wheel bearings out the box which I replaced but same thing I snug the axle bolt down the wheel will not spin.
Also the wheel locks up even with the brake cable disconnected...
What about the other side? You got a washer or spacer pressing against just the inner race of the bearing? You put bearing spacing tube back in the wheel right?
m c you have got to be missing a washer or something in there. Go through the video of how it all goes together and see if yours is missing something.
What sprocket size is that
And what size chain it take
@@SWMopartvvt 72 tooth 420 chain
Wow, I just can't figure how this could be happening, brake assembly scrapping the inside of the brake drum. Any ideas, here's a link to my issue... czcams.com/video/ZnpopOOCNog/video.html and how it sounds installed (chain off)... czcams.com/video/Ng1Kbkppt_4/video.html