Creality Ender 3 Pro - 3D Printer - More Upgrades
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- čas přidán 21. 02. 2019
- Amazon Links
Ender 3 Pro: geni.us/xUMach
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
...
Upgrades:
Capricorn tubing:geni.us/nOtX
Stepper Dampers: geni.us/pXvmFBR
Silicone Sock: geni.us/rArnrL
Metal Extruder: geni.us/SqP89R
TL Smoothers: geni.us/eBM2vv
Gear Puller: geni.us/Edm856p
Timing belt pulley: geni.us/BAvciy8
Printable Upgrades:
Fan Duck: www.thingiverse.com/thing:336...
Z- axis mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
Pressure fitting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:299...
PCB cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:298...
Ribbon Clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:288...
E- knobb: www.thingiverse.com/thing:311...
Tool tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:316...
Side Spool: www.thingiverse.com/thing:296...
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:320...
Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Upgrade Cmagnet Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 8.6" x 8.6" x 9.8"
Specifications:
Modeling Technology: FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)
Power Supply: Mean Well UL certified power supply
Printing Size: 220 x 220 x 250mm / 8.6 x 8.6 x 9.8 inches
Machine Size: 440 x 410 x 465mm / 17.3 x 16.1 x 18.3 inches
Package Weight: 8.6kg / 19 lbs
Max Traveling Speed: 180mm/s
Filament: 1.75mm PLA
Input: AC 100-265V 50-60Hz
Output: DC 24V 15A 360W
Layer Thickness: 0.1-0.4mm
Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
Precision: ±0.1mm
File Format: STL, OBJ, G-Code
What's the diifference between Ender3 and Ender 3 pro?
(1) Y aixs AL Profile updated from 4020 to 4040
(2) Power supply updated from normal version to brand meanwell, which made by the listed company over 30 years, mature technology, provide you the best user experience and worth trying.
(3) Only takes 5 minutes, the heated bed can reach up the 110 degree, quite meet the requirement of printing various of filaments.
(4) Leveling nut updated to big twist version
(5) Cmagnetic sticker, which can better adhere to the platform than textured paper and glue. Easier to remove the model and solve the printing edge problem, more cost-effective.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
My website: www.justvlads.com/ - Jak na to + styl
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Ender 3 Pro: geni.us/xUMach
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
Upgrade Links: ⬇
Capricorn tubing:geni.us/nOtX
Stepper Dampers: geni.us/pXvmFBR
Silicone Sock: geni.us/rArnrL
Metal Extruder: geni.us/SqP89R
TL Smoothers: geni.us/eBM2vv
Gear Puller: geni.us/Edm856p
Timing belt pulley: geni.us/BAvciy8
Printable Upgrades:
Fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3365114
Filament Guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2770487
Ribbon Clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880021
E-Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115901
Tool Tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162464
Side Spool Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967567
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211
PCB Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100
Pressure fitting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683
Z-axis Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080
I have my ender 3 in my bedroom. The best fix is to get used to it 😂
You just need tmc drivers (different board) to make it completely silent. At least the fans will always do some noise.
The foam pieces alone made a huge difference.
You like the smell of fresh plastic in the morning?
I hope your bedroom is well ventilated.
True just get used to it its gonna be in my room
Me who waiting in the mail for it still
The hand gestures are the best I've ever seen on a 3D printer video. Actually they might be among the best on CZcams as a whole.
Bowden Tube 2:20
Fan Duct 9:20
Stepper Dampers 15:45
I cut some foam feet from the black foam that the printer was packaged in and it works well!
I spend this afternoon (-30C outside) watching your videos on the Ender 3 Pro... then ordered one off Amazon. I have flagged every upgrade and Thingiverse mod that you mentioned in each of your videos... Thanks for a series of fantastic videos- clear, concise, and no questions of where you got something. I have great faith of what to expect, and how to tweak it into an epic monster!
This is a great set of videos. I'm excited to upgrade my Ender 3 pro. Thanks!!!!!
For the bowden tube, when putting it in the hot end, make sure to secure the push fit connector to the tube first, and make sure the spacer that holds the movable part away from the metal bit is secured in place. This will grab the tube, so that when you tighten the nut, it will actually put pressure down. The way done in the video is probably okay, but what he described versus what he did were to entirely different things.
Vlad, many thanks for these videos, my Pro is with UPS right now, so I will be looking at adding these mods to my machine very shortly. Really appreciate your work here, and showing how much effect they have on the final prints.
Same here. I'm gonna mod the s..t out of it.
same here! i might be able to pick it up tonight, if not, tomorrow! i got half of my upgrades before the printer lol
@Zsavage1 damn paid 259$ mines at Microsoft but I originally got the powerspec i3 mini and then exchanged for this I think a 118$ difference
Nice to see a new video about the ender 3pro
Whilst looking into buying a 3D printer, finding the Creality E3P, I stumbled upon your videos.. And I must say, I like your style; being your camera man, narrator and mechanic at the same time, cudos!
You also helped me to decide whether or not it would make sense investing in this device. Since you clearly have had time and experience with this particular machine it's clear it's well worth the price.
Subbed to keep track of your insightful videos, can't promise to be a faithful 'new upload buster' ;)
Dimitri yeh the same with me I have had two Malyan m200 in the past two years simply because they are super cheap so when one died I just bought another and ive finally been able to spend money on a new printer all though I can’t afford the pro 😂
Think its kudos not cudos
Awesome progress, i have the squash ball feet, dampers, and a few other things, but those two upgrades made a big difference with the noise
Thank you so much for your videos!
This made my first steps with the Ender 3 so much easier!
Nice videos Vlad, bought myself a pro couple a days ago. nice to see these pretty handy upgrades. Thanks. And well recorded!
there is a friendly spider on the wall at 8:15 hahaha
Alexandre Legault how did you see that?!
like spider 3d printer weave plastic objects
Just came to type this hahaha
I hate u
I saw that too. instantly. Living in Florida has truly taught me the skill of noticing small movement. Man I hate bugs.
When putting in new ptfe tubing, loosen nozzle 1/4 turn, heat up hotend, press tubing all the way in, tighten nozzle snugly. It will also help ensure that filament doesnt leak by the contact area of tubing and nozzle.
Just bought one today! Counting down on when I get it! thanks for all of your tips!
Same here.
I think I'm most impressed that lifting the chassis to put those feet under it while printing didn't affect anything
Pull those dampers off and throw a new mainboard in with either 2208's or 2209's in it. My E3 Pro has the Creality silent board running 1.1.9 Marlin and it is whisper quiet, no whine at all, just fan noise.
This is what I was thinking. Silent maiboard is the way to go. Total silence, no banging on motors, no physical modifications.
Ty
Loving your videos, many thanks!
I like the stock sound. I like white noise/industrial sounds.
excellent work vlad,a lot of great upgrades and fixes for what is a really good machine.
8:15 spider on the wall
subscribed, awesome videos man, I just got my ender 3 pro and loving it so far!
You might want to try the Hero Me fanduct. I think it directs the air better from both sides. Also is a modular system that can be upgraded over time
Just awesome videos, all details like it should be and all explained. When I go to buy the 3d printer Ender 3 I will see these videos to go great.
Amazing work on upgrading this, I am going to be doing the same based on your video.
Fantastic Video!
Looking forward to have mine, and start this long list of upgrades
If you really enjoy the upgrade process, get the Ender since it is a great printer, but if you want something with a better foundation to build upon, look into the Sapphire S from Twotrees. It has linear rails already and it is CoreXY. Currently at an amazing price. I love mine.
Ehm looking forward to getting a printer i paid for to upgrade to print well? Makes sense to someone i suppose. Better off buying a decent machine or building your own. BTW none of these tips were upgrades that would help print quality.
Great video of all the Ender 3 upgrading process...What material did you used to print all the upgrade parts for the Ender 3?
foam pad worked !! amazing !!
Sticking the foam piece underneath the printer was the first thing I did. And DAAAAAAMN, it really does make a huge difference! Waiting for my X/Y dampers to take it to the next level, haha.
Next think you know, today we have 3d printed the whole ender 3
Oooo myyy god thank you sooo much for the dampener hack I thought I would never be able to use the dampers
great upgrades got one on order
I replaced the tubing and couplers when I first built mine.
thanks. I too love my ender 3 pro and will proceed with the dampers and I also have the metal extruder\boden upgrade. I also got the Swiss hot end I will install. I have a set of pullers and I'm also looking for a wider or longer gear.
Thank you for showing us what to do.
Bro.. I never thought to do the foam feet. Going to do the rubber dampeners for sure but those pieces of foam I had lying around made a HUGE difference in noise alone.
Loved the information you provided Thanks
My Capricorn tubing arrived perfectly cut..
Also, I’ve been hammering at one of the motor rods for right about 40 minutes, and it hasn’t moved even a millimeter. I’m using the exact same tool mix that yer using, and all I’ve done was damage my table some
I wouldn't faff around with stepper motor dampers. You can get the BigTree SKR E3 Mini, which is a drop-in replacement for the Creality main board, for under $30. This has trinamic stepper drivers and once installed, the motors are near silent. I must say I was skeptical but I was amazed at the difference. The loudest thing is now the fan in the electronics box. I'm tempted to remove that or replace it with a Noctua fan.
To answer your ? slicepage YES! and when when he said after beating pounding the shafts it may come out this side I thought no S%!+ but I will sat I have a pro and I have it sitting on the shipping foam cut out the section under the board for air flow and I have had no issues with noise
That bedbug was real camera shy lol
hey dude, thats cool. good luck!
Its silly he keeps calling the fan duct a fan duck. Even in the desc.
If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, is a duck.
Lmao
🦆
They have black and blue square pads made of different compounds of rubber at any plumbing supply place, they are anti vibration pads and they would match the ender perfectly and are like a buck or two a piece brother. For the feet I mean...
Washing machine isolation pads....
New subscriber here. Love the videos. I have an old 3D printer I never used (Qiditech X-One). I finally started using it and it’s been fun but this looks like the next printer I’m gonna order 😊
About the packing material: Use what your Ender came with! It's the perfect thickness and density.
You may try a small piece of rubber on your fan focuser to help absorb the vibration and help keep it solid
thise coolers are important for parts with really small / short in time layers, also when you have very thin walls like that single walled trash can you made
I got to 5m55s when I was blown away by the fact that you've been posting 3d printer videos for 9 months without owning a craft knife or a scalpel! (nice vid, keep it up fella)
One other question. Could you provide a list fastener and nuts to secure the various components that were not part of the Ender3. Or were you able to use fasteners that came with the printer? Richard
I think it's just me then. I honestly really enjoy the sound of the Ender 3. It sounds industrial and futuristic and that just appeals to me
Dude you guys wanna play a game? Take a shot everytime he says "alright guys" 😂great vid tho
You added the motor dampers which pretty much completely eliminated the 'salmon skin' artifacts, but another possible cause I've heard of is the belt teeth running along a smooth idler bearing surface (which I see is used on at least the Y-axis of the Ender 3), it can introduce a vibration that can cause salmon skin. It doesn't look like it's much of an issue though on the Ender 3.
I was amazed too on how effective those dampers are. As I had the same problem with the y-axis motor hitting the bed after adding a damper there (to an extent where it did not even reach the limit switch) I found a solution on ebay that is just an about 1 - 2 mm thin sheet of temp resistant silicon, predrilled holes, ready to install for the Nema motors. That worked as good as the dampers like yours but helped to not have to do anything weird with the motor spindle. And no more hitting the bed and no preventing to hit the limit switch.
Can you add a link to it? I cannot seem to find what you're refering to on ebay unfortunately.
Got a link to that part?
Genius awesome Teach ..the only CZcams video explaining dumpers or dampers instalation with huge of details..Now is my turn... im really afraid
Try flipping the magnetic bed over so you are printing on the back. Smooth bottom and no stick issues at all. I have the 3 pro too.
Another tip is corn pads for under the feet. they work great and have adhesive on them in case you have to lift to clean under your printer.
Not too bad, print quality in overall is really good.
But there are some noticeable Z axis marks on the benchy, actually on both.
You must have some issue there as they are exactly at the same height in both.
Hii
If you turn around the arm of your support filament, you can get full use of it...just unbolt it and turn front to back
thaks for the more upgrade info 👍
2 mm EVA foam mat under the printer ought to do it. Plenty of surface area to soak up any vibrations from the floor upwards as well.
Great video dude
dude, your voice sounds exactly like the breaking bad guy. Pretty cool!
Try pieces from Dr. Scholl's shoe inserts, for the feet to desk
You can print dampeners in place of foam feet they snap together i think and go under each corner
Most wonderful videos! Watched every minute of a couple of your videos! I am a total rookie regarding 3D printing but over the past couple of days I've learned a lot. I do not yet own a printer but am seriously considering buying an Ender 3 V2. I am a model railroader. The particular reason I'm interested in 3D is because I want to print small gears. I've been looking for info about resolution but not having much luck. The gear I'm interested in printing is 6.7 mm with 15 teeth. The gear tooth "module" is just under .5, pretty small gear. Do you think this printer has the resolution to print the teeth with very fine resolution?
warning putting foam under the printer will make it silent but will make it shake too and cause problems in long wrong sometimes. so be careful. I had a lot of layer line issues that were slightly shifting
Honestly you should have more likes there's a reason CNC machines and Lathes etc.. have concrete and weighted bases it's to dampen resonance frequencies foam padding does nothing to help other than hide or mask some of these and in some cases can cause more problems than they solve.
I was thinking the same thing with the stepper motor dampeners. Wasn't it just last video he put in the one way boards to make sure the stepper motors stopped faster to keep it from being off on the layering ? Now this one he put dampeners in between the frame and stepper motor that will make them able to shift more. Isn't that a little one step forward and 2 back ?
People replace the flexible magnetic bed because either the flexible bed itself is warped, or their heatbed underneath is warped and the flexible bed follows the warped contour of the heatbed. Either problem affects print quality and makes it extremely difficult to properly level the bed, so by replacing the flexible magnetic bed with borosilicate glass you eliminate both of those issues.
It's a fairly cheap fix, the Creality borosilicate glass bed costs ~$20. I've also heard of people using a section of mirror glass, I wouldn't recommend that because mirror glass isn't able to handle thermal shock as well as borosilicate glass and may crack/shatter/explode after being rapidly heated and cooled so many times.
Got an Ender 3 pro for a crazy good deal today. Can’t wait to get started with my first 3d printer
NuckFugget same ! Had mine for 2 days and love it!
I still have to wait for next week but I’m already stocking up on filament lol. Happy printing!
Got an Ender 3 Pro for 148 EUR ($163) on some black friday sale.
tstrrtstrr I got mine on Black Friday as well around the same price. 2 more days before it arrives sadly
A tip for getting a 90 degree cut on the tube - put the tube into the fitting so that it protrudes a bit from the bottom, and using the end of the brass fitting as a guide, slice the tube so that it is flush with the brass fitting. Oh yeah - and has been noted. Invest a couple of bucks in an X-Acto knife (or similar).
Use the foam from the Ender 3 Pro box... Nice black foam.
8:42 You should have unscrewed that nut a little bit like you did for the hot end. That would have forced the end of the tube up against the inside wall of the red extruder, and further into the "teeth" of the holding nut when tightening it, thus lessening tube movements to almost zero during feeding/retractions. The way you did it will still allow the tube to move slightly anywhere from 1-2mm (or more over time), and that is even with the clip in place and using Cap tubing, because it's outer diameter is exactly the same as the stock tubing). I loosened mine almost one full turn before inserting the tube, and then tightened it, and now my stock tube barley moves a fraction of a millimetre at that location, which helped cleaned up the surface of my prints, and allowed me to set my retraction distance to a much lower number.
Petsfang duct is pretty awesome
For the flexible bed, you could use a metal one that acts the same
Use the Sound Level App on your phone to actually measure the noise levels.
I got mine in a package that included the metal extruder, though I have yet to fit it. I am running it using the basic slicer that comes with it, and am getting beautiful prints right out of the box. The only problem I have spotted so far is that there is an error in the assembly instructions relating to the placement of the Z axis limit switch. Rather than placing it at 32mm height, simply place it as low as the spur that has been newly added to the part will allow. The spur rests on the base extrusion.
I have printed some upgrades to the filament path that seem to be popular, but so far they have caused more trouble than the original configuration. Granted there may be weaker parts that need replacement over time, but I think a lot of these upgrade projects are not necessary, and I am not the only one saying this. Both CHEP, and Salanderer have videos that say the same thing. The upgrades are fun, but they are also great subject matter for videos whether they really work better than the basic machine or not.
To have a tight fitting, tighten the coupling first then heat the nozzle to 230 or so, unscrew the nozzle half thread, push the nozzle all the way through until it touches the nozzle and then tight the nozzle back.
another method is a little simpler. tighten nozzle all the way (retighten hot)
loosen coupler 2 turns. insert ptfe seat it and the release clip into place. THEN finish tightening the coupler the last 2 turns. perfect mating every time. fast easy painless and fool proof.
I've had my Ender 3 Pro now for a couple weeks(first 3d printer). I like the spool side mount. Which size out of 3 did you use. Thank you in advance.
Hey Vlad ! Great Video : I didn't when you use the Gear Puller and Timing belt pulley you mentioned in the description : can you give us more details about these parts ? Thanks
I didn't use a puller/timing pulley but included the link for anyone who does.
The Filler spool holder won't work properly when side mounted like that, the inside of the spool will rub on the brace part a lot of the time. You really want the spool to be resting solely on the round cylinder with the bearings, which you can't do with it at an angle. There are stands and other attachment methods available on the Thingiverse page for it.
i'm worried the dampener is going to ruin my prints somehow. cause the motor can rotate. but I could just use TMC2208 ;3
hi, do yoy have a video of all the settings for the ender 3 pro??
it seems like you have very good results..
tnx!!
Did the fan mod works great my benchy prints are a lot nicer the only problem I'm getting is a retraction line going down one side of the boat anyway this can be fix thank for the video as well
Have you replaced bed springs yet with the amazon orange ones? Id like to see you upgrade to those or even better the silicone stabilizers and do another benchy
I've done that recently... just ordinary stiff springs, not "painted" orange ones. It's made a huge difference to my prints... They're better... I got 20 of them for less than a fiver.
I've printed 3 stabilising cylinders that catch the screw and the spring (they both have their own space, with a small ring between the screw and spring), so the springs can not make the awfull S-shape anymore when the bed might be leveled down a reasonable amount, to shop the bed shifting from travelling movements. It helped quite a bit in limiting the bed shifting because of fast travelling.
The base of the cylinders is quite large so the screws stay upright as much as possible. There also is a 3.5 mm high base that the springs rest on so they have much more force in pushing the bed up, which helped even more (I used several small metal rings below the springs at first, but they could shift position just like the springs, and while it definitely was an improvement, it wasn't a very good one.
Thanks for tips!
I wonder if instead of using those specialized rubber dampers, you cut a sheet of thin rubber or like an inner tube to put in between the motors and the mounting plate. I know you would still have contact through the bolts but it might make it better.
if you slow your print speed down 10 to 15 percent it will solve the sound problem. You can adjust in menu will its printing
Thanks very much for the quick reply. Richard
Decoupling a 3D printer from the table eliminates most of the vibration induced noise. The stepper dampers are also pretty effective and a cheap way to silence it even more, but upgrading the Ender series with a better mainboard with silent Trinamic drivers is the better long term measure, if you are willing to invest the money for it. Will also improve your print quality a bit.
If its your only machine and that is the path you wish then sure. However, stepper dampers are about $1.20 to $1.60 a pop. I have a box full of them. same with TL smoothers. around $3 a pop.
a replacement mainboard and drivers is 60% to 120% the cost of the entire machine. dampers and tl smoothers are 5% the cost of the machine.
I have 6 Ender 3's I can BUY 3-6 more ender 3's for the price of upgrading the 6 with full on boards and drivers.
@@nerys71 That is indeed a weighty economical argument. I too am generally very opposed to investing more money into upgrades than the base printer costs.
Especially on those cheap chinese printers, one could easily replace everything but the frame with better components for a significant price and very modest increase in visible print quality.
Would probably make for an interesting video to compare the practical print quality of a base Ender 3/5 to a fully upgraded one and how much improvement is actually achievable for a reasonable price and effort.
actually the cheapest option is a concrete slab £2 and bolt your printer to it. TL smoothers are junk and do nothing apart from generate heat, Dampers can work as long as they are good quality cheap ones can actually cause problems.
Extremely helpful
a good fan duck is vital
So you put electronic smoothers in and next you introduce play every time you move with the motor dampeners :) Don't hammer the stepper motor axel... if you hate the noise make an enclosure of some sort. Creality prob. changed the design so people wont use dampeners... now people start to break their motors... Don't replace the tubing when the extruder is hot, materials expand so when it's hot and you place the tubing it it opens up when cooling (or cooler then the set temp). Want the tightest fit place it cold.
I love your videos! Thank you. Do you have a file for the modified filament guide you can share?
Hi Vlad..perfect video..need some help, just about to install bampers as same as you..but i heard the add more temperature to engines, giving as result less life at future...is it really like that?
The Capricorn upgrade is not optional. It is necessary.
I got the Ender pro. What brand silicon hot sock did you get for your mk10 extruder?
Just a note! I used a large mouse pad under the printer worked great!
Excellent videos. Nice coverage of the topic. Tight editing and very little unnecessary chatter. If you want to cut down the noise, you could have saved a lot of $$ by adding feet to the printer bottom first and seeing if it helps BEFORE shelling out for those custom parts.
I have had two occasions where printing PETG at 240C after when I tried to load pla in the machine the capricorn appeared to be wavy and I had to install new tubing.
I just used the foam from the packing of the printer