Creality Ender 3 Pro - 3D Printer - Upgrades & Prints
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- čas přidán 7. 02. 2019
- Amazon Links
Buy it here: geni.us/xUMach
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
...
Upgrades:
Capricorn tubing:geni.us/nOtX
Stepper Dampers: geni.us/pXvmFBR
Silicone Sock: geni.us/rArnrL
Metal Extruder: geni.us/SqP89R
TL Smoothers: geni.us/eBM2vv
Gear Puller: geni.us/Edm856p
Timing belt pulley: geni.us/BAvciy8
Printable Upgrades:
Fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:336...
Filament Guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:277...
Ribbon Clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:288...
E-Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:311...
Tool Tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:316...
Side Spool Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:296...
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:320...
PCB Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:298...
Pressure fitting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:299...
Z-axis Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
The Ender 3 is one of the most popular printers of 2018 with a very large user base available online at websites like Reddit, Facebook, and CZcams, all filled with resources which help to improve the experience for a new user or an experienced hobbyist.
New design features improve upon the wildly successful Ender 3 model 3D printer. Improvements to the Y axis improve stability, and the alteration of the control box unit move the fan to the bottom of the unit, no longer under the print bed.
Our all new magnetic bed surface for easy model removal is included stock on the Ender 3 Pro. Easily remove the magnetic print surface from the hotbed and remove models with no spatula or razor necessary.
The brand name Meanwell power supply delivers more power with a stable output ensuring the temperature fluctuations are minimized, especially during long and intensive prints. Heat the hotbed faster and to higher temperatures before making the Ender 3 Pro a much better option for printing ABS and other high temperature high strength filaments.
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My website: www.justvlads.com/ - Jak na to + styl
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Ender3 Pro: geni.us/xUMach
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
Upgrades:
Capricorn tubing:geni.us/nOtX
Stepper Dampers: geni.us/pXvmFBR
Silicone Sock: geni.us/rArnrL
Metal Extruder: geni.us/SqP89R
TL Smoothers: geni.us/eBM2vv
Gear Puller: geni.us/Edm856p
Timing belt pulley: geni.us/BAvciy8
Printable Upgrades:
Fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3365114
Filament Guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2770487
Ribbon Clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880021
E-Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115901
Tool Tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162464
Side Spool Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967567
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211
PCB Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100
Pressure fitting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683
Z-axis Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080
great video. could you add the links to the video description?
Share your profile please
drive.google.com/open?id=1digP83egREvNaL4j0I5hFBmr6xGVgdk8
Just Vlad thank you so much.!
@17:07 I believe every 3D printer has a human sensor, to detect when you have left the vicinity so that it knows it's time to knock your print free from the print bed. My sensor seems to be 100% functional, as no print has EVER failed in my presence and yet EVERY print has failed when I've left my printer unattended.
I 100% agree. I used to be gone all the time and I would come home to failed prints. But with quarantine I have just stayed in my room all day and it has printed perfectly.
@@pineapplevity that sucks cause some prints can take hours
Caleb Smith oof
thats why mine is where i can see it XD if i could have it by my bed i would
Any idea how to give prints as best a possible chance of remaining on the print bed as opposed to breaking away part through prints please? Am a newbie and am really struggling with this. Thought bed levelling was enough of a nightmare never mind prints breaking away from the print bed. Tried different print beds and glue sticks without avail. Understand that there's adhesive sprays that are available but they are quite expensive from what's understood however I'd make the investment should these be highly recommend. Also believe hair spray can help with adhesion. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
I literally just ordered it, also directly got myself some of the suggested upgrades. Helpful vid man! Thanks a lot!
I thought the trash can warping was the real design, it honestly still looks good
Same!
agree
Seems you have the same odd horizontal banding on each benchy....but dang they look good
like Bob Ross said. its a happy accident
@@bisonsgames Was going to reply the same thing and you beat me to it! But yea, the trashcan looks ultra-modern with the wavy edge.
I just wanted to say thank you as you have made up my mind for my first 3D printer. All the upgrades are all stuff I can do plus seem to fix issues that would give me hell. Keep it up.
Wow, these jump cuts are incredible
Hey Vlad, because of your videos, I got and set my Ender 3 Pro with ease! I also ordered the upgraded Bowden tube, couplers, and aluminum extruded assembly at the same time and assembled my printer with the upgraded parts. Can’t tell you how much I really enjoy this machine and the quality prints it puts out. Very pleased with the Ender 3 Pro as my first 3D printer!
FYI:
I just purchased an Ender 3 Pro from Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D via Amazon 4 days ago. The Silicone Sock had already been included as were (2) PTFE Tube clips. Maybe they watched your videos. LOL
Is it working fine for u? I wanna get one too need a bit of feed back, tnx?
@@lukasstahl5979 Got mine within the last week. Very, very happy with my purchase. The last 3D printer I owned had nothing but problems and would barely work. I have not had a failed print yet with my Ender 3 pro! I also got the same things he mentioned and had the same idea that they were listening to customer feedback. A good sign in any company.
My tube clamp was pretty solid too lmao
MIne should be here later today, exact same one, Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro. Can't wait lol. Will be adding the extruder upgrade and the Capricorn tubing too
Just purchased mine yesterday, came today and found it too had some improvements on it, out-of-the-box. as seen in this video, and other videos.
Oh yeah! Huge difference! Things like this don’t usually come out on camera but ya can def tell an improvement
Just bought one today! Counting down on when I get it! thanks for all of your tips!
you can buy the PSU just search amazon or whatever for MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 that is the PSU you want.
you can also replace the fan in that PSU 60x60x10mm fan get a quiet one to make it less noisey (its a 12v fan!! not 24v the PSU down converts to 12v for its own fan)
for the feeder that bolt is exactly the problem. too tight too much friction. loosen it a smidge and it will be fine. and yes the aluminum one is so much nicer.
also your over extruding a tiny bit lower your flow rate or extrusion multiplier 2 points. (95%-96% or .95-.96 usually works well)
I also think you have some binding (that is the bulging you see in the middle all of your benchy's have it)
make sure the right hand vertical gantry is not too tight (loosen till it wobbles then retighten only enough to stop it from wobbling) also loosen the screws holding the brass pushing around the lead screw in place in the left vertical gantry. raise it to the top then retighten it "just a little" to snug it not really tight. that should take care of any lead screw offset.
that last benchy is pretty darned nice.
while this is not guarenteed to work you can try this to improve the giant trash bin print. run multi process print the bottom 3 or 4 layers normally then when it gets to the spiral increase the flow rate on the printer to 150% it will make .6mm walls and they will resist warping a little more.
BTW those first layers NOT BAD for a full platen build !!!
and you just made a lot of people giddy with their peeling fetishes with that peel off their :-)
English please?
@@masonmcgregor7997 Going to need to be more specific than that. :-)
Vlad and Nerys... Thanks for all this information! Mine just arrived last night! Told the wife to read a book and I slapped it together in no time :P ... All the info you guys have provided is really helpful to a first timer like me. The first upgrade will be the Aluminum feeder assembly. Appreciate it and I'll be watching more! Nerys if you have any other suggestions I'd be happy to hear them! ... man cant sleep, just wanna PLAY!
Man this is an absolute great video! Super clean and well lit. I'm about to order the Ender 3 Pro and look forward to the upgrades you have done here. Added to Favorites.
Great video! Thank you! I had my Ender 3 (non-Pro) 2 months ago and have been liking it a lot! Fantastic machine!
How's it holding up rn bc i have a mk3s and am looking to get a second printer and am deciding between a prusa mini and a ender 3 pro
That print is awesome. Idk why it's so fascinating
Great video!! As others have stated - you really need to replace the coupling for the extruder with a very solid one.
I am waiting for mine ender 3 pro, definitely going to do at least some of your upgrades
Love the extruder knob. Thanks for sharing the stl!
I found the 3D ender Pro on Sale and ordered it. In the mean time I am also getting the upgrades from amazon and that way will apply some from the get go and print the rest. I am new to 3D printing completely so I thought a good way to start learning about all this would be to practice on the printable upgrades. Received 4 kg of PLA today too. Thanks for these videos!
Just ordered my ender 3 pro today. Should be here in a couple days I cant wait to set it up and start some printing.....that warped trash can looks nice!!!! reminded me of silk sheets
Thanks for your videos, sitting here designing upgrades and watching you ;)
I think that one of the reasons for the warping on the cube, is the print cooling fan. Because the walls are so thin, when the fan blows air on the print, it slightly moves the wall and creates the waving/ warping effect.
This video is actually very useful cause I was having a hard time finding upgrades setting them up so thank you😁👍🏽
Your ascent is gold
Keep an eye on your coupling that will fix the problem temporarily. The couplings are not designed for this use with the retraction where's them out quite quickly. There are a couple of different styles that we have found some better than others. The better ones are Chrome weather black where the Bowden tube goes in they are the better wants to use we have found.
I added the Capricorn tubing and fittings it works very well and in Cura settings I went to expert settings and reset 1st layer print at 70 degrees then it goes to 60 automatically for rest of print I get better bed adhesion that way good video I always like your tips!
I have installed 2 set of smoother on Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro and fairly happy the way they prints
What's a smoother/which ones did you install?
LOL that bin. I didnt really pay attention for a moment and wondered what the heck you were doing filling the whole bed with a sheet. Then the whole bin popped into existance and daaaamn. I mean it's just a bin but that was quite crazy. The warping gave it a nice touch actually. I ordered this same printer an hour ago and looking for upgrades. Damn fine video!
I really love your video because you always find the not so good on a 3d printer and your make your own fix for it. good job always :)
3:43 you're pointing at the heat sink; the heat break is directly below it.
Got one coming tomorrow. Great video
I bought mine directly from the official creality website around December and it comes with ptfe locking pins, and the silicone hot end cover comes pre-installed.
19:29 my printer made a lot of those when my hotend was leaking plastic & falling onto my print. it was plastic that came in contact directly with the heating element, got burnt & dripped down, from the nozzle not pushing hard enough against the threaded tubing connected to the hotend heatsink.
X & Y dampeners are a very good upgrade. They make the Ender 3 practically silent too. All you hear are the fans
Thanks for making a video that is so easy to understand.
The full metal extruder assembly (dual gear or the single) is really nice I like it very much. I have a full metal dual gear version on my Ender3, but I really recommend everyone who upgrade from the factory one, to recalibrate the e-steps and the flow rate properly.
If you upgrade to the 1.1.5 "Silent Board" you don't have to use the smoothers & it's makes the stepper motors silent while printing so you don't have to worry about the noise at night, especially if the printer is relatively close to the place where you sleep or rest.
I'm impressed with the box. I think the extruder upgrade had more to do with any improvement than the diodes or nozzle guard.
I bought the metal filament feeder on a whim for a future upgrade then I noticed my prints were gradually becoming less and less "accurate". After 3 failed prints I finally noticed the large flat piece of the feeder was cracked under the arm. Luckily I had replacement parts ready, that metal filament feeder is a MUST!
The aluminium extruder has a special way to build it. You have to put a hex bolt into the spring and you use the bolt to push on it and spring to give more tension. It allows adjustment, where as the way you did it gives no adjustment and the spring is loose.
And there's a nifty Schematic Diagram that show all the hardware and it's placement of the new Extruder. It was very helpful.
Nice video dude. Tks for making it!
These upgrades are just things witch Creality could have put on but they didn't do it
I really love these upgrades
All these little 5-10$ upgrades add up. It would bump the cost up from $200 to like 250-300.
But i do thing some things (like a metal extruder assembly) should be stock. As the stock version is basically single use.
I knew nothing about this - I bought a E3 and had it built in a hour (that was FUN) first prints look good - some sticking problems at first. (I have the stock not the pro) I'm impressed with it and pretty easy to learn. Just takes time. NOW I need to model - as I want to make telescope adapters and they are simple cylinders but have fine threads. = (
I haven’t even bought this printer yet, and here I have a list of upgrades a mile long! Thanks for all the vids, very informative!!
The newer ender 3 pros come with the 1.1.4 board that does not require tl-smoothers. There, i saved you some money.
@@bbb10101 howd you know? I'm planning on buying it too
Radu Breahna how wild you know this?
@@buddybonbutt7510 i got the ender 3 pro with 1.1.4. Prints come out smooth, no salmon skin
@@bbb10101 oh sweet. Saved me some money then. Thank you.
great videos you make. keep up the great work
You should check the temperature of the smothers. The ones I use reach 60°C with heatsink.
Man those smoothers are no joke
hey bud on your ender 3 y-axis; to stop the artifacts all you have to do is tap your v-slots wheels closer to the v-slot rails. i noticed this when i was able to shake my bed to the left and right. now i have pristine prints no uneven layer lines. i promise you this you will love that printer ten times more. Cheers!
My ender 3 came with such a silicone heat shield preinstalled, and the tube clip, and a tiny filament guide
I was thinking that too? And it was advertised as an ender3
The PSU is a mean well power supply. It the same make as what is used in my direct drive OSW (sim racing)
so it is easy to get one for the none Pro ender 3
Fun fact: The amount of yellow filament means that your bowden tube is not all the way in on the hot end. That creates additional stress on the feeder and the heating element and causes additional extrusion issues as you technically end up with a small compression chamber of hot filament that ends up acting like a damper. You need to open it up, heat it to 200c and push the bowden tube in to line up with the edge of the nozzle socket, maybe a bit more through even and when you tighten the nozzle down it will push the bowden tube back a bit. That will eliminate the chamber!
Fantastic review and very informative. You eliminate the fear of purchasing a 3D printer with this instructional video. Definitely buying this.
Have you looked into that bed lift-off problem or do you think bed calibration was the issue?..That trash can makes a cool Lamp shade if done in translucent filament.
I'm not a huge fan of lots of jump cuts, but I appreciate your videos.
Hell yeah thanks for sharing man. Will definitely add smoothers to mine lol
hey Just Vlad in my experience if you upgrade the motherboard to 1.1.5 you dont need the tl smoothers. i noticed it makes prints worse in some cases and "auto home" seems to slam against the switches. hope this helps anyone
love the upgrades, i would add a glass bed
Got a pro for $100 . Bought the silent board and the boden tube with metal feeder. New bed springs and cr touch.
I also replaced my extruder mechanism with the red aluminum one you used, and ended up having problems where that threaded hole for a coupler was chewing on all the incoming filament and leaving tiny dust particles of old filament in my new filament. There wasn't enough room to screw in a coupler so I fixed it by superglueing a very small length of ptfe tube in the hole to cover the threads.
If you use a larger nozzle, for example 1 mm, prints like the trash can get a lot more stronger because of the thicker walls.
That peel was satisfing.
You should use your third TL Smoother on the extruder stepper.
24:31 super satisfying, didn't realise this was an ASMR video haha
It's called a Capricorn tube, much better than regular Bowden tube. that other thing is called a sock. Take off the insulation and tape and use the silicone sock.
The lines seems consistent which would indicate z axis lead screw issues. Maybe the brass holder is too tight...not sure.
Prints will hold well to magnetic surface as long as first layer has a little (not too much) squish.
subbed man very helpful!
very good upgrades 👍
I like the warping on the trashcan.
Good video. Very helpful. Thanks.
I think the new parts are a new board with better drivers will be even better
big difference with the smoothers. Nice video Vlad.
Really enjoyed this video Vlad, really nice upgrades, I would also put the diode upgrade on the Z axis as I noticed that you manually push the drive motors with them plugged in when you are levelling, having the diodes in circuit will prevent you damaging the drive board so as like many folks manually move the Z axis its worth fitting the diode board to it, really like the bin, I thought that was the design, it looks better like that, very impressive and a lovely filament.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video, I often find people with no creative ability to make their own videos are often critical of others, ignore people telling you to clip your nails and stuff like that, nails are useful for cleaning up your prints :-)
The latest version of the standard Ender 3 now comes with the silicone hot-end cover & the slim power pack.
I just got one last week.
Also include the tube clips now too :)
Just got one last week. This is confirmed.
Nahuel José I was ready to go with the Anycubic Mega S, but seems that now the Std Ender 3 has included all these upgrades. I know PLA will be easy cake but what about some basic shapes in ABS like a phone case.
@@thecrazylooser7 I have never used ABS (and I've seen many experts advising against it as well) but the printer has ABS printing capabilities so I guess you shouldn't have any problems with it
@@thecrazylooser7 abs will need an enclosure unless it is really small. You can just put it in a plastic bag.
You could print a spacer to go between the screw and the spring to keep it steady. :)
Hello Vlad.Thanks for sharing theses updates. I'm really interested in the TL-smoothers. I have a question, I noticed lately that my ender 3 pro cooling fan for the main boaard turns on at full speed during the print but after the print finishes and everything is cooled off, the main board fan still stays on. Have you noticed that with your ender 3 pro? Thanks.
The WarpCan is cool looking ;)
Darn, you didn't list which smoother holders you printed... Ordered the same brand :)
Короче, рассказываю про ендер3 (не про). свежие (декабрь 2018 - настоящее время) идут:
а) с резинкой на экструдере.
б) с посаженными зубчатыми колесами на моторы, их не подвинуть. а это затрудняет установку всяких резиновых\пробковых демпферов.
tl-smoothers бесполезны на принтерах этой конструкции, т.к. поверхность один хрен недостаточно гладкая, выбрать разницу можно снизив ширину слоя в софте (для сопла 0.4 можно поставить ширину 0.38 и получить такой же результат, как на видео). эти приблуды нужны ТОЛЬКО для дельта принтеров (reprap KOSSEL для примера), там профит виден очень хорошо.
магнитный стол - тема, всем советую. но необходимо понимать, что греть его выше 60 - вообще не стоит, превратится в немагнитный стол.
Care to share your print profile? Having a hard time tuning in my printer settings, these prints look flawless
You should print a camera bracket to fix the camera to the printer for when you are filming upgrades, I like the look of that extruder upgrade but will soldier on with the existing part until it causes me some problem
Vlad, have some mercy on us. You introduce you videos, And your voice is kinda low in volume, and then you say lets go, and my speakers start to vibrate off the desk. Lower the bass a little maybe. You might save an old mans life... Scares the crap out of me every time...
I might have missed it in your video, but what were your print settings for the Benchy boat? So I determine how comparable my prints are to your results.
I Think you need to do more upgrades like:
- silent block for Extruder, axe X and Y (to loose decibels)
- PTFE capricorn
- and change fan support for hero me Gen2 support
This upgrades are very efficient.
(ps: i'm french, sory for my english).
cant mount silent blocs on newer ender3 pro as they come with fixed puleys and not the ones withe the classic screw , to be installed they need you to print specials brackets
You should print in the same black color. With my own printer, I have found differences in print quality where the only thing that is changed is the color of the filament. Since your first one was black, I'd suggest using the same kind of black filament again.
TL smoothers from Triangle labs are the best 8 diode one i dones not matter how u connect tl smother both ways work the same aso flow goes into both directions :) to get good result su need install TL smoothers on all axis XYZE, and if yours print someday will warping especialy on long parts and have not good adhesion even if magnetic sheet good okay clean it with dishwasher liquid with warm water two times with your hand rubbing surface :)
The white box at the end looks great, you can use it as a lamp shade. Lol.
You can get the PRO directly from Creality for $217.00 free shipping and NO tax. I was using Amazon Prime, but now that they charge tax, I will not be using them for big things like a 3D printer. I bought the PRO on Oct 9, 2019, from Creality and it was delivered Oct 12, 2019. Great Ender 3 videos. Thanks
wow. I also have an Ender 3 pro, but with the standard magnetic bed I was never able to print large, because there is a dent in the middle of the heated bed. Even with a glass plate from a local glass shop I cant print on the hole size :( But i haven't got any issues with the printer itself and I already have it for about a year now :D also I fried the original mainboard when I installed a new quiet fan for the heatsink, after that I bought a Creality silent mainboard. The motors got really quiet. I can really recomemnd the silent mainboard :)
Could you please post the file(s) for the TL Smoother modules for the Ender 3 Pro? I am in the process of setting up my new (and first) Ender 3 Pro 3D printer and would like to install the upgrade as shown. Thank you!
I liked the 45 degree spool holder. I couldnt find it, so I will design it by myself though.
I guess it's my design (remix), available on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211 .
Would have been nice if the author of this video linked to all the mods.
You need to replace the stock extruder gear assembly immediately. The stock assembly is just barely good enough to get off a couple of prints.
Within a week, mine cracked at the pivot screw. Making it impossible for the spring to hold tension and causing the filament to get trapped underneath the bearing.
A metal extruder assembly, even a dual drive assembly, is only like 15-20$. So just order it with the printer. You can even find sets that come with the upgraded capricorn tubing for an extra $5 so might as well get that too. Useful for long prints. I melted the stock tube trying a 17h print at 210° PLA
Cool fact. Just got mine in and it has extra couplings AND pre printed little clips like you upgraded Vlad.
Can you give a link to the TL-Smoother holder cover you printed?
How come i didn't buy a 3D printer years before.. i do so much DIY projects or even just to have fun i'd use it a lot.
With a 6 months credit it's like 40 bucks per months, can't wait to get it !
It’s Salmon like the fish
As opposed to "Salem" like the witch trials.
Witch Salmon?
@@SchMasHed No, they burned those women because they had scales.
Great video, I got hold of the TL smoothers and would like to use the same case, is it on Thingiversers?
I like your videos because they aren't super polished. I'm getting one of these printers, and I know some of the struggles that I may run into
My Ender extruder was underextruding periodically and this was because the gear was slipping in the same place every rotation. The spring wasn't strong enough.
I fixed this by adding washers to the spring nubs, then the stepper started skipping steps - fixed this by increasing the current by tweaking the pot on the E stepper driver on the board and increasing the reference voltage on it to about 0.85V. Now runs sweet.
Also important, remind everyone to check the XT60 power connector for the defective crimped batch that overheats and replace with a proper pair. Mine melted a hole in the foam on the table it was sitting on!
It doesn't help that it's mostly out of sight, so its difficult to know there's a problem until it's too late.
"Salem Skin" 😂 Isn't it salmon skin?? Either way, I love it. Thanks for the great video man!!
my filament drive pressure roller arm cracked after about 2 months of printing 12hrs a day. Installing an all metal unit solved that.
A glass build plate is a great upgrade.
@5:59 "the spring looks different its more shiny" LOL
@5:56
Yoy shouldn't have clipped off the solder joints on the TL-Smoothers, as this can compromise the integrity of the joins, it also lowers the surface contact area, which means more likeliness to overheat
Jay Wenden yeah as a guy that does a lot of soldering that triggered me. There is a good reason to why the solder joints stick out