Thanks for the great video. Changed my freehub body and lubricated...now as good as new. Would not have known how to go about it without this video, Thanks you.
You've missed the main most important part of a hub service which is the repeated adjustments you need to make to cup and cone tightness with the cone wrenches, then mounting the wheel into the bike and checking rotation (without the brake rotor complicating things - another reason to take it off for this service), and then re-adjusting.
Brendan O'Meara do I understand your response correct that you need to check whether you have actually assembled in such a way that your wheel is in the centre of your frame again? Should it stick out on both sides similar distances?
The hub should have a small amount of play. when placed in bike QR clamp eliminates play for perfect adjustment. Use 2 9mm box wrenches and QR skewer to test adjustment. also insure drive side lockring is secure.
1:55 just an Allen wrench even though the shape in the hub looks "special", it is just a allen wrench. My shimano was 10mm Allen. It take a wiggle then it fits perfectly!! Also a T55 torx works too.
Exactly the same hub that I have too much play in. Now Ive seen this I may aswell carry out the service whilst im sorting the problem out. Great vid thanks
There are basically two types of hubs. One where there is an industrial sealed bearing on each side and the other where there are balls like the Shimano XT. Just take it apart and see for yourself.
Very nice video. Some tech advice: when you tighten bolts the wrench's "teeth" should look the other way. I mean at 3:15. Rather than that i repeat very good and finally clear video.
jose castillo i would definitely remove the rotor first. Just to prevent accidental scratches from the tools used in the process. No matter how cautious you are, one little slip and boom - new rotor time.
If you get good grease on the rotor brake cleaner won't always remove it and you may be screwed and have to replace the rotor so as a precaution is agree to take the disc off
How often is it necessary to service your bike hubs? How would you know if they need servicing? All I can think of is if they do not spin well or maybe you hear some noise. I have an old road bike that I have never serviced the hubs and the wheels seem to spin fine. I just clean and squirt a little tri-flow lubricant around the hubs from time to time.
Fantastic video. But I found out that "finger tightening" the bearing preload is tight until you install it on the bike and you can feel it being loose. I had to use a wrench and go ever so slightly PAST what your finger can do. It feels runn, but once you tighten down the securing nut it's fine.
If you want to remove the freehub body, and you don't have the special tool, use a 10mm allen key, but even that is too small. If you have any spare spokes lying around, get two of them, push them through and then push the allen key through. You will find a perfect fit and no slipage whatsoever.
It is a home made tool. Use translate button and find out more at our web site bikebook. si. Post is called CREATE YOUR TOOL FOR CHANGING SPROCKETS and it is under do it yourself category.
Fantastic video, thank you very much. Nice and clear, what I like to see. No filming from 25 feet away so you can't see what's going on/hands obscuring things. Well done.
You should remove that rotor before doing this it can get messy and you might contaminate it. Not saying your couldn't do it without contaminating the rotor, its just more work making sure you don't than just taking it off and putting it back on. Also, you'll want to use a light weight grease like Slick honey to reduce rolling resistance.
Hi Daniel! is Phil Wood grease (comes in a green tube and grease is green) okay to use? See my other comment as the blow out of my M770 seems much more complex than this and I think to really overhaul it don't you have to completely take it apart?
@@mwj5368 hub bearings is a perfect use case for Phil Wood grease. As for a "complete overhaul" yes this video just shows how to do the hub bearing service. You can also service the freehub. Plenty of HG freehub body service vids that can walk you through that bit
I find it a lot cheaper to use a good lump of butter instead of that grease although I have to service the bearing more often - say twice a month or so and sometimes there is a lot of rust in there
This isn't freehub body, this is a video on how to overhaul and adjust a rear hub. The freehub body is the part that the cassette sits on- you may want to change the title as this is not accurate. Thanks!
It's rare that the music on stuff like this doesn't make me want to jam icepicks in my ears !! That was kinda groovy, it would probably make a good guitar backing track.
Casi bien faltó quitar los guardapolvos tanto del lado del disco con del lado de la criquera , luego faltó quitar el disco para su limpieza y descontaminación, y faltó desarmar la criquera o body para limpiar adentro , al menos es lo que hacemos en el taller así son los mantenimientos de las mazas sean Shimano o la marca que sean, de todos modos bien el vídeo, saludos desde Argentina.
Hi. You wouldn't be able to on a standard rear free wheel hub. Hope make a front wheel hub that can take special adaptors to go from 20mm down to 15mm. I had the same issue trying to convert my Scott 20mm thru hub to a 15mm thru hub to take new forks. In the end i purchased a new hub and rebuilt the wheel with it in. Good luck.
2:56 "Loosely tighten. There should be no play at all". I and many disagree. There should be LITTLE play which is lately eliminated by compression forces caused by quick release. No play at all leads to premature wear of cones and balls.
yeah, from my 20 years of experience i think the same, to tight will destroy the cones very fast. note how this dude removes the cassette to clean and to put grease on the hub, why the hell one need to remove the cassette
Hey..... After some maintenance on the rear hub, well to be exact the cassette, the plastic disk that is behind the cassette started to rub against the cassette. So what do I do? Remove the plastic disk or put some grease down there. I really can't decide.
Not applicable to my rear wheel, there is a locknut that is holding the disc brake, and there is no space to insert the wrench. On the other, cassete side, there is also no space to insert the wrench.
In wet conditions I would say once every couple of months. Dry conditions, once every year unless you start to hear grit or the wheel is a little loose (side to side).
Depends on how much you ride and where. It could be every other ride if you ride thru creeks or once a year or even less if you dont ride much. Spin axles with your fingers, if they feel less than smooth or feel gritty then overhaul em. It easy and theyll last a long time if you take care of them. These are great value hubs!
Does any one know how tight it has to be in 2.57, on the video it states 'Loosely tighten' ? does that mean just enough for their to be no play at all, but no tighter beyond that?
i have a hub xtr fhm 965, the problem is, sometimes it freewheel both side, i tried to put grease on my bearing both side and it did not help.. i think the problem is the hub body.. any suggestion? need help..
good video, I just put my bike in to bike shop to get my hub serviced as i didn't know how to do it my self. on a completely different topic, I just put a new cassette and chain on today and on the 8th gear whenever i put pressure on the on it the chain jumps/slips off only at a certain part of the chain, however all the other gears are perfect any ideas ?
Check your chain tension. Had a similar problem but on the front chainring. Culprit was my rear derailleur was getting stuck at some point and it wasn't tightening the chain enough. I had to open, clean and lubricate the clutch on my slx shadow plus derailleur. Problem seems to be gone for now.
He’s using 2 wrenches and grease... how hard is it to google something? You have the knowledge of the world at your fingertips. Don’t be a lazy ass, look that shit up and be at least somewhat self-sufficient.
My pedals keep slipping (up to a full half revolution) and I'm told it could be my HUB. Im not 100%. Any tests etc i can do? or other problems this could be a symptom of, please?
Paul Owens watch closely at 2:14 - 2:20 of the video where he uses two open wrench. one wrench to hold one nut still and the other wrench to tighten the other nut.
Sounds like you broke the pawls of your freehub body, I broke a pawl on my hub and it did the same thing yours did. Remove the freehub body and replace it with a new one. Or, it may just be dirty, and making the pawls stick. Try cleaning it first. Good look!
Thank you for the clear presentation. So many of these types of videos look like they were filmed in a dungeon using a brick as a camera.
I always use a strong magnet to get the balls outside the hub. Nothing ever gets lost!
Thanks for the great video. Changed my freehub body and lubricated...now as good as new. Would not have known how to go about it without this video, Thanks you.
Removing the disk before is a good idea to prevent putting grease accidently on it.
You've missed the main most important part of a hub service which is the repeated adjustments you need to make to cup and cone tightness with the cone wrenches, then mounting the wheel into the bike and checking rotation (without the brake rotor complicating things - another reason to take it off for this service), and then re-adjusting.
Brendan O'Meara do I understand your response correct that you need to check whether you have actually assembled in such a way that your wheel is in the centre of your frame again? Should it stick out on both sides similar distances?
zbog tvojih videa zaobilazim skupe servisere. apsolutno sve radim sam.
lijepi pozdrav iz Hrvatske, i vidimo se u Kranjskoj gori!
The hub should have a small amount of play. when placed in bike QR clamp eliminates play for perfect adjustment. Use 2 9mm box wrenches and QR skewer to test adjustment. also insure drive side lockring is secure.
1:55 just an Allen wrench even though the shape in the hub looks "special", it is just a allen wrench. My shimano was 10mm Allen. It take a wiggle then it fits perfectly!! Also a T55 torx works too.
My lemon random hub needed 7/16 inch Allen hex key which is 11mm
Exactly the same hub that I have too much play in. Now Ive seen this I may aswell carry out the service whilst im sorting the problem out. Great vid thanks
Fun times. I do this every other day @ work. Once you get the hang of it it's a breeze lol.
You don't need a special tool to remove the freehub body, just a 10mm allen key.
On every Shimano free wheel?
There are basically two types of hubs. One where there is an industrial sealed bearing on each side and the other where there are balls like the Shimano XT. Just take it apart and see for yourself.
There are a few different tools, but this is the most common one on most modern bikes. Remove the wheel and you will see which one to use.
This was just what I needed to learn how to do thanks.I have always been scared to do this part lol this is a great video.
Very nice video.
Some tech advice: when you tighten bolts the wrench's "teeth" should look the other way.
I mean at 3:15.
Rather than that i repeat very good and finally clear video.
Just finished doing this. Thank you!
Mmmmmm....you should remove the rotor before. Not only to prevent any bending but, to prevent any grease on it.
well that's why he cleaned it at the end, no need to do that if you're cautious.
Diego DIEGO No need to remove the rotor at all bud. Just clean it at the end like in the video
jose castillo i would definitely remove the rotor first. Just to prevent accidental scratches from the tools used in the process. No matter how cautious you are, one little slip and boom - new rotor time.
Little Scratch
If you get good grease on the rotor brake cleaner won't always remove it and you may be screwed and have to replace the rotor so as a precaution is agree to take the disc off
Thanks for the useful video! Does it matter what year XT hub it is or has shimano kept all XT rear hubs the same for servicing?
Nicely done video... Done that several weeks ago...same way as you did. Easy and fast to do...
How often is it necessary to service your bike hubs?
How would you know if they need servicing? All I can think of is if they do not spin well or maybe you hear some noise. I have an old road bike that I have never serviced the hubs and the wheels seem to spin fine. I just clean and squirt a little tri-flow lubricant around the hubs from time to time.
Super tuto. Très clair, très efficace. Merci.
Thanks for the guide, it just helped me replace my bearings.
Fantastic video. But I found out that "finger tightening" the bearing preload is tight until you install it on the bike and you can feel it being loose. I had to use a wrench and go ever so slightly PAST what your finger can do. It feels runn, but once you tighten down the securing nut it's fine.
You should remove the disc, to make sure it does not get any grease.
Nice guide, is going to be helpful this weekend, and I didn't mind the music whatsoever
@THEKINGBG1 look at 1:55 you should probably remove the freewheel body. There are some pins inside. Check them out and this should solve your problem.
You can use a 10mm allen key to remove the freehub in the ones I've seen - no special tool needed
Apik iki..cocok nggo pemula belajaran bongkar freehub
If you want to remove the freehub body, and you don't have the special tool, use a 10mm allen key, but even that is too small. If you have any spare spokes lying around, get two of them, push them through and then push the allen key through. You will find a perfect fit and no slipage whatsoever.
You can buy 14mm hex keys from Amazon.
It is a home made tool. Use translate button and find out more at our web site bikebook. si. Post is called CREATE YOUR TOOL FOR CHANGING SPROCKETS and it is under do it yourself category.
Similarly @ 0.25 the adjustable jaws should be over the other way so the rigid jaw is taking most torque.
*ok i gotta admit thats a fancy ass chain whip*
Fantastic video, thank you very much.
Nice and clear, what I like to see. No filming from 25 feet away so you can't see what's going on/hands obscuring things.
Well done.
1:50 yeee that's how I clean my ears.
1:50
Use a magnet to remove ball bearings. Much easier than turning your wheel upside down and trying to lever them out with a screwdriver.
You are right, just enough that there is no play and then tighten a touch more.
You should remove that rotor before doing this it can get messy and you might contaminate it. Not saying your couldn't do it without contaminating the rotor, its just more work making sure you don't than just taking it off and putting it back on. Also, you'll want to use a light weight grease like Slick honey to reduce rolling resistance.
Hi Daniel! is Phil Wood grease (comes in a green tube and grease is green) okay to use? See my other comment as the blow out of my M770 seems much more complex than this and I think to really overhaul it don't you have to completely take it apart?
@@mwj5368 hub bearings is a perfect use case for Phil Wood grease. As for a "complete overhaul" yes this video just shows how to do the hub bearing service. You can also service the freehub. Plenty of HG freehub body service vids that can walk you through that bit
Why don't bikes have grease zerks on the axles? It would make greasing the bearings a lot quicker.
I find it a lot cheaper to use a good lump of butter instead of that grease although I have to service the bearing more often - say twice a month or so and sometimes there is a lot of rust in there
HAHAHA :)
@riskprocessor You should be fine with any bike grease if you do this regulary. I usually use White grease form Morotex which is lithium based.
great informative video...exactly what I was looking for...thanks a bunch...subscribed...greetings from Finland...
This isn't freehub body, this is a video on how to overhaul and adjust a rear hub. The freehub body is the part that the cassette sits on- you may want to change the title as this is not accurate. Thanks!
hello buddy! i have downloaded this video. I am trying to learn the basics of fixing bikes. and thank you for your video.
It's rare that the music on stuff like this doesn't make me want to jam icepicks in my ears !! That was kinda groovy, it would probably make a good guitar backing track.
Thank you. You just saved my wheel!!
Good instructional film,but you should of torqued the half nut on the hub to 40 Newton meters as specified on the item.
@minameise It is the Motorex Brake Cleaner.
Thanks for the vid enjoyed! I normally take off the rotor first to stop it being bent. Pain to straighten true!
еще совету после чистки шариков просмотреть их целостность даже если появился матовый оттенок шарик на замену
Casi bien faltó quitar los guardapolvos tanto del lado del disco con del lado de la criquera , luego faltó quitar el disco para su limpieza y descontaminación, y faltó desarmar la criquera o body para limpiar adentro , al menos es lo que hacemos en el taller así son los mantenimientos de las mazas sean Shimano o la marca que sean, de todos modos bien el vídeo, saludos desde Argentina.
Park Tool Cone Wrenches SCW-15 (for cone) and SCW-17 (for lock-nut) i believe.
@i010524 Yes, you could but we clean everything at the end anyhow.
Hi. You wouldn't be able to on a standard rear free wheel hub. Hope make a front wheel hub that can take special adaptors to go from 20mm down to 15mm. I had the same issue trying to convert my Scott 20mm thru hub to a 15mm thru hub to take new forks. In the end i purchased a new hub and rebuilt the wheel with it in. Good luck.
How to change ball bearings on a swingarm; How to replace metal eyelet bushings - Fox Float RP2
Those two videos shows the principle.
thanks for the help! loving the music as well!
2:56 "Loosely tighten. There should be no play at all". I and many disagree. There should be LITTLE play which is lately eliminated by compression forces caused by quick release. No play at all leads to premature wear of cones and balls.
yeah, from my 20 years of experience i think the same, to tight will destroy the cones very fast.
note how this dude removes the cassette to clean and to put grease on the hub, why the hell one need to remove the cassette
most of the time the cassette covers the inner nut on the axle. I usually cant get it off with the lockring on.
le Art you can flush and relube the cassette body that way. They need love too! Lots of balls and pawls in there!
le Art If you have or make the right tool, you can disassemble and overhaul the body as well.
Best to use new ball-bearings in case of wear not visible to the naked eye.
That is exactly what I need to do, please tell me what tools I might need, thank you.
Thank you from Russia.=)
Xtrazex
You have to push them out. Check out other videos on our channel to see how.
you can just use a 10 or 12 mm allen key to remove the hub.
How often to you recommend cleaning and regreasing hubs in terms of miles? thanks
5000km
Thanks, after watching your video, I actually found an similar tool made by Unior
part # URT208
that spray and one that you used in the brake rotor
Denk wel dat helemaal goed 👍
Tuto is good....but...1st of all, always take out disk to avoid to put grease on it or to twist it...just my advice
Thanks for a clear video.
What model/made is that chain whip with spring ?
I like it !
hi there, great video.
quick question, the grease you are using is it copper or lithium based?
Thanks man..nice info for me a new bycicle repair..🙂
Hey..... After some maintenance on the rear hub, well to be exact the cassette, the plastic disk that is behind the cassette started to rub against the cassette. So what do I do? Remove the plastic disk or put some grease down there. I really can't decide.
Yes kapalkilayz you need a new free hub body. Lubrication does not help once it he pawls have failed to catch.
@megbikes Done. Thanks!
What about the outer bearing on the other side of the wheel,that's the one I needed to change.figures,no help.
Thanks, would the same principle apply when servicing front hub, in particular I have the Shimano Deore XT Disc HB-M756
Not applicable to my rear wheel, there is a locknut that is holding the disc brake, and there is no space to insert the wrench. On the other, cassete side, there is also no space to insert the wrench.
Just bought a set of wheels with these XT hubs. I don't care for them but it was a deal. How often is this needed?
In wet conditions I would say once every couple of months. Dry conditions, once every year unless you start to hear grit or the wheel is a little loose (side to side).
Get some sealed hubs as soon as :)
Depends on how much you ride and where. It could be every other ride if you ride thru creeks or once a year or even less if you dont ride much. Spin axles with your fingers, if they feel less than smooth or feel gritty then overhaul em. It easy and theyll last a long time if you take care of them. These are great value hubs!
Is a little play on the rear wheel ok I know I can't tighten axle all the way.
Does any one know how tight it has to be in 2.57, on the video it states 'Loosely tighten' ? does that mean just enough for their to be no play at all, but no tighter beyond that?
@opmike343 You are welcome :)
nice vid bud!. I got a question, how would i convert the hub for a 20mm through axle?
i have a hub xtr fhm 965, the problem is, sometimes it freewheel both side, i tried to put grease on my bearing both side and it did not help.. i think the problem is the hub body.. any suggestion? need help..
Thanks a million, really thanks a million!!!
good video, I just put my bike in to bike shop to get my hub serviced as i didn't know how to do it my self. on a completely different topic, I just put a new cassette and chain on today and on the 8th gear whenever i put pressure on the on it the chain jumps/slips off only at a certain part of the chain, however all the other gears are perfect any ideas ?
Check your chain tension. Had a similar problem but on the front chainring. Culprit was my rear derailleur was getting stuck at some point and it wasn't tightening the chain enough. I had to open, clean and lubricate the clutch on my slx shadow plus derailleur. Problem seems to be gone for now.
can you make this freehub body service tutorial also?
How do you adjust the nut on the freewheel side, is it supposed to be loose?
very good, however you need to give a bit of info on what you're actually doing. You need to explain to novices what tools etc your using.
Why?
Because not everyone knows what tools to use.
I expect you posted it to help fellow cyclists? 😪 why are you 'doing' what your doing?!
Don't overtighten.
He’s using 2 wrenches and grease... how hard is it to google something? You have the knowledge of the world at your fingertips. Don’t be a lazy ass, look that shit up and be at least somewhat self-sufficient.
يصير افتح المكينة الخلفية بدون أدوات تشتريها يعني يدوية
@dhollm and @brianwilburn Thanks for info.
I don't use grease I use oil .once a year
Kada sam u 2brzini napred i ubacim u 4nazad mislim da osecam lezajeve u svim vecim brzinama vecim od seste da li bi mi ovo pomoglo oko toga hvala :)
Drago mi je da mogu pomoći.
My pedals keep slipping (up to a full half revolution) and I'm told it could be my HUB. Im not 100%. Any tests etc i can do? or other problems this could be a symptom of, please?
Can i use air craft graphite grease on the bike composites?
1:15 so 18 balls? those are from both sides right?
Very useful video. Thanks for the sharing. : )
Why not have a one unit replacable ball bearing unit
I can't get my rear wheel to spin properly, after adjusting my cone. What's the trick?!
Paul Owens watch closely at 2:14 - 2:20 of the video where he uses two open wrench. one wrench to hold one nut still and the other wrench to tighten the other nut.
Thanks mate. Sorted.
Thanks mate. Sorted. Rolls like a dream. O:-)
+Oneto Twelve
you mean 3'.20"?
sorry! yah it's 3:20
thanks for this awesome vid
Sounds like you broke the pawls of your freehub body, I broke a pawl on my hub and it did the same thing yours did. Remove the freehub body and replace it with a new one. Or, it may just be dirty, and making the pawls stick. Try cleaning it first. Good look!
that's phil wood grease