Watched a few of you're videos, good stuff fella! Great vids, love the sound of the hijiet cool af too! :D , dya reckon this would work on a shogun 3.2 did 2004, it has the zexal/bosch vrz pump, I've looked on every forum and googled for days no answer anywhere, it seems nobody has tried with a shogun or a mitsubishi tbh! I'm willing to be the 1st haha, cheers mate 👍
I don't know to be honest. If it has a fuel temp sensor shown on the pinout you may be able to peg a resistor in there to fool the ecu. I think with the more modern stuff it would be best to get a mild remap. Thanks for the feedback, I am going to get back to making videos this summer. I haven't had time to do it recently
@michael winder yeah it does have a temp sensor, I just don't know to much about diesel pumps I now some of the vws can and others like the pd tdis can't and always wondered why as there mechanical/eletric pump I believe, might just have to take the plunge and try gonna keep googling for now tho. Cheers for the response carry on with the content some really useful cool info. Cheers mate
@@paulthompson5289 im soo gettin a potentiometer for xmas in that case! :D Time for some smokey fun in the snow, if we get some more!! Thanks for letting me know, ive been wondering about this for a while now, slowly started to get some bits for my bus, boost gauge etc, i tihink the pot is deffo next!! cheers ;)
Hi mate loving what you've done with the evry mod, I am about to get it done on my p38. With your bleed valve did you manage to run the extra hoses without getting the turbo off and what diameter hoses did you use? Stock boost is 1.2 by the way. Easy way to run a boost gauage is plum in to the map sensor line on the manifold 👍
The actuator pipe is quite easy to get to, I pulled the pipe off of the turbo compressor housing and left it attached to the actuator. I teed off the pipe from the actuator and sent a pipe up to the boost switch and then joined two longer pieces of pipe one to the other side of the tee and one onto the compressor housing and routed them so that I could mount the bleed valve somewhere convenient. If you follow the front edge of the exhaust shield with your fingers you can locate the pipe and pull it off the compressor housing without using tools on the clip. the pipe i used was some pipe that I had kicking about, I think that is 4mm ID but its really flexible, I think that the injector leak off pipe is about the same internal diameter. For the switch I plumbed into the actuator pipe because this will be the first to see maximum boost, there would be a pressure drop by the time it got to the intake. As for the boost gauge, I have one, its locked down at work though, I will be fitting it ASAP. I might add some preload to the actuator too as I think its creeping open with the drive pressure pretty early and its spooling pretty lazy. The mods have made a heck of a difference though, boost is starting at around 1400rpm now and it will happily sit and 90 all day in places that you are allowed to do those speeds. I found 680 ohm resistance to be just right and its ballanced out the smoke with more boost. its pretty quick for a 2.6 ton boat.
@@MultiBruce3 cheers mate ill try that was thinking of just winding the actuator rod but the bleed valve will give me more fine adjustment, surprising in your video you said the bleed valve didn't work when it was inline and u had to tee it, I always thought it acted inline like a restrictor. Handy to know tho! I have the same exhaust as you but if you add a decat pipe it makes a big difference plus a tone of turbo whistle 👍
I used it in series as a variable resistor on on pins 2-3 in the plug . rather than dividing 5v potential like a map sensor does. sorry if I have misunderstood your question, I am not fully understanding what you are asking me.
Some how this got cut during my editing. I am a beginner lol. The potentiometer was set at around 2/3 of its rotation. I have balanced out smoke and how the extra power is delivered. This will be slightly different for everyone, you might need to give less or more resistance on the potentiometer. And please make sure that you fasten the potentiometer to something non conductive. I haven't been able to do much testing due to the lock down however I am doing the best I can to tune it in between going to the shops .
@@MultiBruce3 thanks for the reply, only ever done something similar on a vw, involved hedging 2 bits of wore into the pins with a resistor out an old VCR soldered onto it. Idled rough as well but was plenty smoky 😂 will definitely be doi g this mod to my dse
yes thats how it works, the boost switch disconnects the resistor or pot at very low boost levels so that it idles nicely. its worked really well. I did the mod on a passat years ago without the boost switch.
I am going to say yes, but I havent done it to a vp44. From doing a bit of research there is a wire you an tap into on the top of the vp44. czcams.com/video/Kcyfkqq-oHA/video.html I assume that you could use a potentiometer the same way I have done and have the whole thing switched on and off with a boost activated switch similar to how I have done, I would do a little more research if I was you but there is lots of info for the cummins 24v with a vp44
apart from the fact it ran on 100% veg oil. Thats what the huge recycled heat exchanger is for, you can see it in my other videos. I have been an alt fuel guy for years.
It's ok, people feel the same about the tuning boxes too. It's supposed to be cheap, simple and effective. Personally I would prefer a manual pump. I will be building one out of a cummins 6bt ve pump as the base and then fit a compound hx35 turbo in the future.
Watched a few of you're videos, good stuff fella! Great vids, love the sound of the hijiet cool af too! :D , dya reckon this would work on a shogun 3.2 did 2004, it has the zexal/bosch vrz pump, I've looked on every forum and googled for days no answer anywhere, it seems nobody has tried with a shogun or a mitsubishi tbh! I'm willing to be the 1st haha, cheers mate 👍
I don't know to be honest. If it has a fuel temp sensor shown on the pinout you may be able to peg a resistor in there to fool the ecu.
I think with the more modern stuff it would be best to get a mild remap.
Thanks for the feedback, I am going to get back to making videos this summer. I haven't had time to do it recently
@michael winder yeah it does have a temp sensor, I just don't know to much about diesel pumps I now some of the vws can and others like the pd tdis can't and always wondered why as there mechanical/eletric pump I believe, might just have to take the plunge and try gonna keep googling for now tho. Cheers for the response carry on with the content some really useful cool info. Cheers mate
Will work on did shogun
@@paulthompson5289 im soo gettin a potentiometer for xmas in that case! :D Time for some smokey fun in the snow, if we get some more!!
Thanks for letting me know, ive been wondering about this for a while now, slowly started to get some bits for my bus, boost gauge etc, i tihink the pot is deffo next!! cheers ;)
Hi mate loving what you've done with the evry mod, I am about to get it done on my p38. With your bleed valve did you manage to run the extra hoses without getting the turbo off and what diameter hoses did you use? Stock boost is 1.2 by the way. Easy way to run a boost gauage is plum in to the map sensor line on the manifold 👍
The actuator pipe is quite easy to get to, I pulled the pipe off of the turbo compressor housing and left it attached to the actuator. I teed off the pipe from the actuator and sent a pipe up to the boost switch and then joined two longer pieces of pipe one to the other side of the tee and one onto the compressor housing and routed them so that I could mount the bleed valve somewhere convenient.
If you follow the front edge of the exhaust shield with your fingers you can locate the pipe and pull it off the compressor housing without using tools on the clip. the pipe i used was some pipe that I had kicking about, I think that is 4mm ID but its really flexible, I think that the injector leak off pipe is about the same internal diameter.
For the switch I plumbed into the actuator pipe because this will be the first to see maximum boost, there would be a pressure drop by the time it got to the intake. As for the boost gauge, I have one, its locked down at work though, I will be fitting it ASAP. I might add some preload to the actuator too as I think its creeping open with the drive pressure pretty early and its spooling pretty lazy.
The mods have made a heck of a difference though, boost is starting at around 1400rpm now and it will happily sit and 90 all day in places that you are allowed to do those speeds. I found 680 ohm resistance to be just right and its ballanced out the smoke with more boost. its pretty quick for a 2.6 ton boat.
@@MultiBruce3 cheers mate ill try that was thinking of just winding the actuator rod but the bleed valve will give me more fine adjustment, surprising in your video you said the bleed valve didn't work when it was inline and u had to tee it, I always thought it acted inline like a restrictor. Handy to know tho! I have the same exhaust as you but if you add a decat pipe it makes a big difference plus a tone of turbo whistle 👍
Did you use positive source from boost controller to attach to the final peg on potentiometer #3?
I used it in series as a variable resistor on on pins 2-3 in the plug . rather than dividing 5v potential like a map sensor does. sorry if I have misunderstood your question, I am not fully understanding what you are asking me.
Thanks for the quick response I think I finally got it
Excellent video, how did you set the potentiometer?
Some how this got cut during my editing. I am a beginner lol. The potentiometer was set at around 2/3 of its rotation. I have balanced out smoke and how the extra power is delivered. This will be slightly different for everyone, you might need to give less or more resistance on the potentiometer. And please make sure that you fasten the potentiometer to something non conductive.
I haven't been able to do much testing due to the lock down however I am doing the best I can to tune it in between going to the shops .
@@MultiBruce3 thanks for the reply, only ever done something similar on a vw, involved hedging 2 bits of wore into the pins with a resistor out an old VCR soldered onto it. Idled rough as well but was plenty smoky 😂 will definitely be doi g this mod to my dse
yes thats how it works, the boost switch disconnects the resistor or pot at very low boost levels so that it idles nicely. its worked really well. I did the mod on a passat years ago without the boost switch.
Will be following with great interest on rrp38uk to see how you get on setting up a second boost switch 😎
Is it possible with vp44 bosh?
I am going to say yes, but I havent done it to a vp44. From doing a bit of research there is a wire you an tap into on the top of the vp44. czcams.com/video/Kcyfkqq-oHA/video.html
I assume that you could use a potentiometer the same way I have done and have the whole thing switched on and off with a boost activated switch similar to how I have done, I would do a little more research if I was you but there is lots of info for the cummins 24v with a vp44
More pollution for the environment and the woods will die from your pollution ☠🌲☠🐱😋👍👍
apart from the fact it ran on 100% veg oil. Thats what the huge recycled heat exchanger is for, you can see it in my other videos. I have been an alt fuel guy for years.
this is just car abusing :( undemanding tools, undemanding solution.
It's ok, people feel the same about the tuning boxes too. It's supposed to be cheap, simple and effective. Personally I would prefer a manual pump. I will be building one out of a cummins 6bt ve pump as the base and then fit a compound hx35 turbo in the future.