Double Adjustable Bridge Design, version 1
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2023
- Considering all the different scenarios and techniques we can use to climb safely, when it comes to the bridge on our tree saddle, 2 is better than 1. This video explains and demonstrates a new design for a double, adjustable, non-mechanical, fail-safe bridge design. The design incorporates variations of two creations by JRB which are considered prerequisite knowledge:
1. Tying the Longhorn Hitch: • Longhorn Hitch, Details
2. Tying the 523 JRB Ascender Hitch in Soft Bridge Mode: • Tying the 523 JRB Asce...
This bridge design has been tested in various climbing methods including: SRT, MRS/DRT, JRB Hitch Climbing, JRB Double Rope Method, as well as different forms of Stick Climbing. The carabiner on the shorter bridge is a built in rappel device, ready to accept the Munter Friction Hitch, or an alternate rappel device.
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DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
#jrbtreeclimbing #treeclimbing #saddlehunting #arborist #climbing #knots #srt #ropeclimbing #deerhunting #deer - Jak na to + styl
Thank you John, you inspire my climbing endeavors . Just made a custom fitted ridgid saddle, main support bridge is custom length not adjustable no hitch no metal solid loop under the saddle ridgid seat, absolutely bomb proof, with reduandant adjustable bridge using a very simple method, 4-2-3 jrb ascender hitch soft bridge and 8mm rope tied off to a carabiner, so I can use it as a lineman also, and get it VERY short for rappel . This ridgid saddle, padded triangular board under my butt, attached and fitted to a modified safety harness , is SUPER COMFORTABLE, I can climb with it and instantly transition to hunt mode. Have been doing short test climbs testing safety and I’m very excited about it. Have also modified the 2TC method to be tied in at all times on both tethers, bridge to each one, also hitch climbing SRT and JRB DSRT.
Man your tying skills fascinate me every time I watch your videos. Plus the way that you articulate your process is top notch!
Man I’m impressed by you and am learning something new every time I watch your videos and basically just wanted comment to thank you because I’m fairly new at saddle hunting and you’ve opened my eyes to a whole new approach and experience to my climbing.
I only wished that I found you before I waisted $$$ on unnecessary expensive equipment.
I have nothing for sale. I am the guy who is showing you a different way, and this is not very popular with folks who just want your money and have questionable concern for your safety.
Every time i watch your videos I see a detail I missed the first time 'round. Your level of engagement make tree climbing assessable to us novices. Thanks.
Appreciate that. I take it seriously and try to deliver a quality presentation without using a script
Perfect timing! I’ve been running a Tetherd Mantis for a couple of years with original Amsteel bridge plus I made a second adjustable Amsteel bridge which was really “sticky” to adjust😡. Assembled new bridge(s)
The cinching feature solved wedgie” issue when climbing 🙄
I used some 8 mm static line for climbing (halfline) and 6mm for the friction hitches. They were too slick and didn’t hold. So for today, I resorted to 3/2 Prussics on the hybrid Prussics on the bridge loops. Will take run at it tomorrow to see if I can “get a grip”😂
John,thank you for ALL your great work!!
I love seeing the evolution of all your knots and how they are all coming together.
I was doing this for 12 years before I ever had a channel. Someday we'll go back and review my hourly work on moving rope systems.
As always, ingenious! You are making my climbing better with each video. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent. Happy to contribute.
Hi John,
in Germany saddle-hunting is at the moment not really familiar. So i am very glad to see your videos because itʼs not that easy to learn how to hunt successful and safe with this method.
Today i changed my saddle-bridge from the producer version to your double-bridge solution. Itʼs really brilliant.
Your ideas are great, your videos are very good, your explanations so exact. Hope, you will be going on with that.
Thank you very much indeed.
Kind regards
Mike
Hello Michael and thank you for commenting, sincerely. For 12 years before I had a CZcams channel, I was rope climbing and "saddle hunting" even though I never heard of it and had no idea others would be interested. Now, i feel its my obligation to share, just to help get as many people safely into a tree as possible. Beifall!
Hey John, I have a webbed bridge custom saddle that I hunt in. My 🌳 cutting saddle is the exact model u have there. It came with an adjustable 11.4 Predator bridge. I added the double loop redundant 8mm Oplux bridge with the open Blake's hitch. When I have a climbing line on one side & another climbing line on the other side of a co-dominant hitch I can be tied in triple with my linemans when cutting. I also do all my practice shooting from a 🌳 using that double bridge saddle so I can keep my mesh hunting saddle clean.
Having that open loop on the left side so I can tuck it out of the way when it's connected but not under load works perfect. Sometimes it's nice to be able to have the redundant bridge @ a different angle when working in trees like this since it's rare to have a co-dominant that is @ the same angle as the dominant side. Thanks for all your knowledge & I'll keep this in mind for a bridge that I don't need to use a small chain link on. Take care.🎉❤
Cool. I have seen some arb saddles with redundant bridges built in. Obviously, my designs are for hunting where we generally want a bridge we can let out much longer than an arborist would use. Also, I have recently switched my bridge over to this new design: czcams.com/video/Qwiw8wI9JSo/video.html
@@jrbtc I was wondering John if u have people that incorporate your methods that also use something different than your climbing system? In the event that they r using their lineman's & think that just cuz it is tight that u they can still slip? I know with arbors they will have it adjustable but r also using a floater which is just a prusik on one side attached to carabiner that u attach to the linemans on the opposite side. I know that if I'm in a 🌳 hunting & have a 🌳 where gravity wants to pull me that way that the floater will only let me go so car b4 it catches. It's also very easy while the linemans is around the 🌳 it's easy to slide that prusik to the opposite side to allow your self to only go so far to set yourself up to be in the perfect position. It could help some guys feel more comfortable drawing & aiming @ the moment of truth while having that extra redundancy to rely on.
@@josephtreadlightly5686 it's a bit difficult to have a detailed conversation on all the possibilities without a tree and some face time. For me personally, I have never used a Lineman's belt except for temporary positioning. For example, when installing a trail camera midway up on a rope climb on a leaning tree, with nothing under my feet. Or when installing a treestand for a friend. I hunted 14 seasons without a platform, just using a branch for positioning. Last season, I did use a platform and enjoyed it. The reason I have created the "Universal system" is so we can climb other ways. Some are using it in conjunction with climbing sticks. I hope to demonstrate that when I get a chance.
@@jrbtc The people with just the sticks & the ones doing that one sticking really need to try your methods. I think that would be a big help. For me the floater is just something for me shooting RH to be able to shoot to my left in a setup where gravity would enter the equation. Especially being that my strong side is to the left & that left side would only be used & hunting height. Thanks John. 😊
@@jrbtc Yes, I've never bought sticks but in 2021 someone on public land put up a set of 4 sticks to gun hunt public ground. The river was very low so he parked his truck @ a county park & walked with his gun across the river. Lazy & illegal. I took a picture the following late February on the sticks. When I returned a month later to scout I figured out my position I already had setup downwind of that spot was ideal. The sticks were gone but the thief must of had the linemans to get them but left the tether. I threw a shot bag up there & removed the tether so someone else wouldn’t be tempted. When people do stupid things it leaves us all in jeopardy of losing another spot to hunt 😒.
any links to finding that bridge rope and carabiners?
? I want to try this, ty for all the greats videos,
My website has dedicated pages for Rope, Cord and Carabiners with recommendations. On the bridge, I have constructed it using the 9.5mm Ghillie rope as in the video and also with 8mm RescTech with 6mm Sterling TRC for the hitches. I prefer the latter.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/
Great and thorough vid John. By the way, what saddle are you using in this vid?
I am still wearing my 2000 Aerohunter Flex, which is no longer available, both the model and the brand. The bridge design is my own. I am due for a new one but simply too busy to get around to it.
Great stuff John, thank you. I have a question for you. With talk of redundancy and single points of failure I’d like to ask about the bridge failing itself, and a possible stop against that. This would be incorporating your new double bridge system with a extra catch through the lineman’s loop. What’s your thoughts on trying to incorporate the lineman’s loop into the new double bridge system?
I ask this because since the first day I got into a saddle the bridge has worried me. If a broad head crosses that bridge cord you’re compromised and falling. Well, JRB climbing solved that with the redundancy of a 2nd bridge (my best friend)….mostly. The single point failure of the bridge still exits, but now it’s lowered away from the bridge cord and it’s at the loops attaching to your saddle . It’s much more unlikely to compromise your bridge loops down by your hips but it could definitely happen.
When I was starting JRB climbing I tried to incorporate the best friend 2nd bridge into my lineman’s loops for more redundancy but it was cumbersome and didn’t work well. I think this was because having my body weight on them vertically via stepping into the the garda foot loops was just not correct spacing,symmetry etc.
A lot of this stuff with climbing and other dangerous activities is a give and take. How cumbersome (or poor) do I want to get to achieve how much safety and redundancy ? I gave up wild mobile stick climbing to use your version of the double stationary rope climbing. I’m still pretty dang mobile though. I can run and gun and can pick out a brand new tree blind and hunt, just a little less mobile but WAY safer. I think incorporating a lineman’s loop in this new double adjustable bridge might work? And be not too cumbersome to achieve a higher level of redundancy.
Just airing out some thoughts and an idea, passing along to you. I would have put in the leg work and do it and experiment myself but I don’t have the equipment now and probably won’t till next year to set up this new bridge system.
Thanks for everything John I appreciate what you do!
Thanks for the rich feedback. Regarding the possibility of a sharp such as a broadhead cutting your bridge loops, for me, I consider that an acceptably low risk proposition. Why? 1. My broadhead is never near me. 2. I have tried to damage or cut an 8mm rope remnant by simulation of the kind of contact it could possibly experience and left that feeling even more secure. But let's tackle it anyway: let's assume you want to address the failure of your bridge loop... or better yet, your entire saddle. That's as simple as a piece of webbing, and water knot to form a diaper sling. I only demonstrated it once, and it was in my very first utube video.
czcams.com/video/b4jwqBhd-w4/video.html
John, as always, thanks for a great video! On the stationary end, I need to put a carabiner. My solitude jacket from FirstLite has 2 'pockets' that are perfect for routing a saddle bridge through. I'd recommend this jacket to anyone! But on to the need. I currently have a removable bridge with a prussic loop on the saddle loop that the carabiner connects to. What would be the best knot to attach a carabiner to the stationary end of the bridge for your new adjustable bridge? Only the stationary end needs to be removable. Thanks for great content. I use your content every time I climb!
Thx. I would just form a standard Longhorn hitch (without the extra wraps) onto the carabiner.
Make sense?
@@jrbtc It does make sense, yes. Thank you!
John - I just got a tethrd lockdown saddle and I want to tie this bridge on. The lockdown has the ‘comfort channels ‘ in the bridge loops. They feel like marbles in the webbing and the intent is to provide and index for the location of the bridge through the bridge loops. When I tie the double bridge, I am not going to incorporate the double wraps for the prussic effect. Do you see any issue with that?
I agree with your approach. In fact, you can use that approach on both sides: the Longhorn can likely be a standard Longhorn and the friction hitch can be a Compact JRB Ascender. This is assuming that the size of the channels is appropriate for your rope and cord. The Longhorn should basically stay where you set it but I am guessing the JRB Ascender hitch might have enough play to wander around requiring that you make sure its exactly where you want it before you get into final hunting position.
@@jrbtc I tied the jrb dual adjustable bridge on my tethrd lockdown /ultralock and it works great! It even works well with the indexed bridge loops
@nicholasmarinelli4575 excellent. I am not familiar with the details of your saddle, but this design should work on anything with standard bridge loops or equivalent connection points. Cheers.
Can these knots be used with Amsteel? Do you not like Amsteel or is there a reason I haven’t seen you use it?
Knots tied with rope and cordage would need to be formally tested with Amsteel. The general rule of thumb is that they will not deliver the same performance. That's why Amsteel ends are joined in a bury, not a knot. I don't use Amsteel because I simply have no reason to do so. Amsteel is super strong, light and smooth but not good with knots and in my limited exposure, slippery when wet. In my opinion, it's only benefit is financial, specifically to whomever is selling it. I don't need to shave an ounce off the weight of my bridge. It's my bridge. It's too important. I can get plenty of strength with rope and cord. Take a look at the arborist saddles: they don't use Amsteel. Its used in winches and towing and lifting applications. Now if your saddle already has an amsteel bridge, I am not saying it's unsafe. I am just saying if I am making a better bridge, I would use the best materials for the job and Amsteel has too many disadvantages.
@@jrbtc thank you. I had an feeling that was going to be the reason. I never used Amsteel for rescue equipment in the fire department either. If it was beneficial I think we would.
I do have a saddle with Amsteel and use it for me stick attachments. The cheaper foreign manufactured Amsteel is slick when wet. I got rid of that. I just didn’t want to change everything over.
I’m doing it today