Hello.just thought I would mention when I start a job like that I always spray nuts and bolts with duck oil.then when I fit the dampers back I copper grease the bolts that hold the damper in place.hooe this is helpful.may I just mention I've been working on minis since they came out 1959 .kevin
Hi, thanks. Sorry to not give a clear answer but it depends. The fixing arrangement evolved so there are different sizes and types. As far as I am aware they are all within a normal, good socket set range though.
Thank you for a great video. I have replaced the hi/los and cones but having trouble with tower bolts. I cannot get them started in the thread. Is there a trick to it? Any help would be appreciated.
Not a problem I have had. Are you on the single large bolt or the two smaller bolts. In either case I can only guess it is an alignment issue. You have moved the subframe very slightly in relation to the chassis so as you pass the bolt through the chassis it is not quite matching the thread. Two people, one jiggling the subframe and one threading the bolt, will eventually overcome this but it is hit and miss. You can check the alignment with a smaller rod into the hole and see if it is off centre. Best of luck.
Thank you for the good video. I got one side done without any problems. But on the other side of the car the M10 thread of the nut in the rubber cone destroyed my cone compressor. Do you have any recommendation on what to do, if the cone compressor cannot be used?
If it is the cone thread that has gone you are in luck, but you need a new compressor. Are you certain the cone has a metric captive nut ? The imperial size is similar and feels tight if you try to start it off with a metric tool. I would get the double tool with imperial as it sounds like an old cone on that side.
@@mikesmotormechanics8602 It is an M14 thread (M10 was a mistype). I bought a piece of threaded rod today, used an angle grinder to create 4 grooves at the end - similar (well at least the idea) to a thread cutter. Then by slowly winding forth and back I cut a new thread into the cone. Using a piece of m14 threaded rod with a solid piece of metal tube as compressor as compressor works quite well. Next time I will add two nuts about 15mm from the end. The way the rod does not extrude to far and interferes with the HiLo
I'm having trouble getting the top arm out, the two bolts on one side are off and I've loosened the large bolt on the opposite side but the shaft doesn't want to move over. Any suggestions how to force the shaft over as there's not much space between the shaft and the bodywork to hammer it over.
Hi, you should have taken off the big nut and be driving that end through. You can get a drift or something else on to tap that end to knock it through enough to twist the arm around to then pull it off. If it is that stiff have a good look once you get it out as it sounds like you have not had enough grease in there and things may need replacing. Best of luck.
Hello.just thought I would mention when I start a job like that I always spray nuts and bolts with duck oil.then when I fit the dampers back I copper grease the bolts that hold the damper in place.hooe this is helpful.may I just mention I've been working on minis since they came out 1959 .kevin
Thanks for the video! It’ll help me when I get my mini.
Great help and informative cheers👍🏻
The way how u film is very good. Good job really
thanks for a helpful video, a job I've got to do before it gets to cold....!
Do add Hilo cones. Keeping the ride height optimal transforms your mini driving experience. Like chalk and cheese
Thanks for uploading, very helpful. :)
Thanks
great video!
Thanks
Good video with easy to follow steps. What is the socket size for the bolt on top of the front suspension (accessed from the engine bay)?
Hi, thanks. Sorry to not give a clear answer but it depends. The fixing arrangement evolved so there are different sizes and types. As far as I am aware they are all within a normal, good socket set range though.
Thank you for a great video. I have replaced the hi/los and cones but having trouble with tower bolts. I cannot get them started in the thread. Is there a trick to it? Any help would be appreciated.
Not a problem I have had. Are you on the single large bolt or the two smaller bolts. In either case I can only guess it is an alignment issue. You have moved the subframe very slightly in relation to the chassis so as you pass the bolt through the chassis it is not quite matching the thread. Two people, one jiggling the subframe and one threading the bolt, will eventually overcome this but it is hit and miss. You can check the alignment with a smaller rod into the hole and see if it is off centre. Best of luck.
Good video! You didn’t show how you got the bolt out of the captive nut at the back- that was a nightmare to get out!
Thank you for the good video. I got one side done without any problems. But on the other side of the car the M10 thread of the nut in the rubber cone destroyed my cone compressor. Do you have any recommendation on what to do, if the cone compressor cannot be used?
If it is the cone thread that has gone you are in luck, but you need a new compressor. Are you certain the cone has a metric captive nut ? The imperial size is similar and feels tight if you try to start it off with a metric tool. I would get the double tool with imperial as it sounds like an old cone on that side.
@@mikesmotormechanics8602
It is an M14 thread (M10 was a mistype). I bought a piece of threaded rod today, used an angle grinder to create 4 grooves at the end - similar (well at least the idea) to a thread cutter. Then by slowly winding forth and back I cut a new thread into the cone.
Using a piece of m14 threaded rod with a solid piece of metal tube as compressor as compressor works quite well. Next time I will add two nuts about 15mm from the end. The way the rod does not extrude to far and interferes with the HiLo
@@timbosinius3653 excellent solution, well done
I'm having trouble getting the top arm out, the two bolts on one side are off and I've loosened the large bolt on the opposite side but the shaft doesn't want to move over. Any suggestions how to force the shaft over as there's not much space between the shaft and the bodywork to hammer it over.
Hi, you should have taken off the big nut and be driving that end through. You can get a drift or something else on to tap that end to knock it through enough to twist the arm around to then pull it off. If it is that stiff have a good look once you get it out as it sounds like you have not had enough grease in there and things may need replacing. Best of luck.
Great video. Is the radiator in the way on the other side?
No, it’s almost a help. You can gently bend the grilled plate to get more access - but only a little or you won’t get it straight again afterwards
@mikesmotormechanics8602 I did both the other day the radiator side is so much easier.
doing this now on my innocenti cooper. pain in the ass job