Subframe assembly, engine and transmission installation 1968 Firebird
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- čas přidán 8. 11. 2022
- Detailing the subframe for a 1968 Firebird, installing the engine and transmission. Tips for installation to save you a few headaches and time. Working toward making the engine run and test on the frame before placing it back into the body.
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Jon Forehan VVG
6870 west Washington street
Indianapolis IN 46241
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#Pontiac #Firebird #restoration - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I believe your channel is going to grow exponentially.
Wow. That would be great! Thanks
Thank you for doing these. It's immensely helpful for my 1979 TA project!
Very welcome! Gotta save all them birds
Excellent again.
Thanks buddy!
Great job very helpful tips and hint's
Thanks
Thanks! Our goal is to save headaches for builders and share our experience.
Amazing video and congratulations on 3k subs!!! 🥳
Thanks, making progress and so far so good
Another great video! That subframe came out really nice looking. I know a guy that might, might need some stuff off that old engine.
Lol. Come and get it’s. Price is right!
Great work. I cant wait to see it run. That seems so much easier to mount the engine than the way im gonna have to weasle mine in lol.
I suppose there are several reasons to install an engine. Pro and cons to them all. I have done several this way, mostly because I am a one man show most of the time and I hate scratches and I feel I can better control that situation this way plus I get to test run and inspect for issues that may need addressed. Now is the time to manage them.
John, you make it look so easy. Can’t wait to the resto completed.
Appreciate that, many years of experience make it seem easy but good news anyone can do it plus how else will you get the experience, slow and steady wins the race and keep it fun.
Great tip on the brake line mount! The little things that make a big difference - or you don't realize it until you run into an issue. Excited to see the progress and this getting closer to completion!
When can I find those clips? Awesome time saver!
Super close to making it run again! Then drive it 😎
Inline tube company sells them in a kit. eBay or direct from their online store. The factory ones under the engine where painted yellow or blue originally. Can’t remember for sure if you want exacts to factory
@@VinylVillageGarage Ames has them too..I assume they get them from inline tube also..Is it just me? or has Ames done a big price increase?
Yes Ames has them and I have seen a jump in prices almost across the board.
Great video, that is a trouble saver and time saver
Exactly my thoughts. I have had the torque converter to kick my butt a few times.
@@VinylVillageGarage just really great content and info put into practice, great videos
Great job Jon!
Thanks. Getting close to making it run again.
@@VinylVillageGarage Will you be going with an HEI distributor?
WOW buddy that sub frame with the engine and transmission is very looking sexy I love the way you show everyone that it can be done right at home you are a great Firebird builder for me my favorite Pontiac guy 👍
Thanks buddy. We need to live closer,
Imagine what trouble we could get into
@@VinylVillageGarage lol 😆 😂 🤣 you might have a good point I found out yesterday about a real T/A here in PA about 2 hours from me the owner have it in the garage with boxes 📦 all over it I can't believe it
For sale 😁
@@VinylVillageGarage I really don't know but the owner is not doing anything with it 🤔
Heck we could have it going in no time
Another great video Jon. Amazing how different the fuel and brake lines run on a Pontiac compared to my Camaro. Motor mounts also totally different. Thanks for sharing with us.😃
Right on, the Camaro and birds have similarities but also very different in some areas, I could not imagine trying to install those lines once the engine was installed especially if you do not want to scratch anything.
Awesome work! Looking forward to seeing more of this car come together.
Thanks I hope to have it running on the frame by this weekend and get some runtime and testing done
Awesome video John really smart way of doing it like you are paint job on motor and frame look great!
Thanks! It’s starting to come together.
Super job Jon! I wondered myself about the brake and fuel line install. I had to replace a rusted out fuel line on my bird, and to put it mildly it was not fun. I had some choice words for auto engineers 🙂
I bet. I have replaced a few fuel lines and brake lines and had to get creative and go for a walk a few times to clear my head.
These are great tips, I will definitely use these steps when I get to that point on my 67. Congrats on 3k subscribers, keep up what your doing and it will be 100k before you know it. 👍
Great! I wouldn’t know what to think if I had 100k subs sure would be cool 😎
Was that Pantera I heard faintly in the background? That is what I am usually blasting when I am wrenching in the garage only much louder.
Nice and Most likely. 😎 CZcams frowns upon copyrighted music in the videos. I have to keep it at a low volume seems kinda backwards for listening to pantera but it’s a great motivator
The 76 formula I have I put a 389 in. The torque converter bolts didn't line up so I drilled them out. Don't know if it will last tho
I have drilled two of them as well to make it work and so far they have held up and one is behind a built 455. I prefer a factory drilled one but when in a pinch what do you do?
Great content in this video, Jon. Tips for the novice first time builder, as well as seasoned wrenchers. One thing that bothered me: watched you spray the subframe in another video, using the Summit Chassis "Black", and it seemed black- now with the contrast of the control arms and engine frame mounts, the subframe appears like a very dark brown. Is there a noticeable difference to the naked eye and/or sunlight- or did the camera and garage lights highlight a variation mostly seen only on the video?
Great job, keep them coming! 👍👍👍👍
Your observation is correct, naked eye can detect it but the camera really magnified the difference. It is like the Summit black was reduced to much, Black will turn a bit brown when that happens. I still really like the look in person but worth mentioning incase someone else was using the products.
@@VinylVillageGarage I fret about things too much sometimes. For instance, I am using aftermarket control arms which are powdercoated to a high gloss black. My subframe was sandblasted, and after repairing the mounting holes as needed, I used Eastwood's Platinum Silver as a primer and then a top coat of gloss black. (still too much pitting evident, so I'm going to redo -I want a smoothed look) I know the finish isn't factory correct, but nothing about my bid is, lol!
I get it totally, the details make the difference, I don’t love the difference in color and a little disappointing that it happened, but I am always learning from mistakes and sharing the results to help all of the restoration community.
I ended up buying a reproduction subframe for a transmaroado because of then rust damage and pitting. I wanted a smooth look.
Very good video. I have a 68 400 firebird planning on pulling motor and trans for rebuild this winter. I noticed when u put tje motormoint bolts in that u had a good 1.5 inches between the oil pan and the frame. On mine the oil pan is dam near touching. Not sure why, aftermarket pan , bad motor mounts not sure. If u have any i sight i wood greatly appreciate it. Thankyou
My very first Firebird years ago was the same way. The oil pan was almost sitting on the crossmember, I have couple thoughts. I still have that car and it clears great now and the only thing I changed was new engine mounts and swapped out the oil pan back to an
Original front drain plug location. So you have a factory pan and if so where is your drain plug located side or the front of the sump?
Left side of pan. Before i purchased the car alot of work was done to it. Si not sure if the pan is aftermarket.
I also would like to know the answer. My first Firebird had the left side oil drain which is correct for newer car. 1969 had the front drain plug location. I have since changed my cars to front drain and haven’t noticed the close gap anymore. That might be the reason.
What did you torque the 2 motor mount bolts down to? I can’t find a spec online for that style.
The book I have and I even checked with my friend Luis and it’s 55-75 ft-lbs. should have a serrated washer, lock washer and bolt.
@@VinylVillageGarage
Awesome thank you! I’m terrible at finding stuff online and I’m waiting on my book to get shipped. Got the engine back in the subframe and the subframe in the car tonight. Rearend tomorrow and I’ll have her back on a rolling chassis! Thanks again!
Heck yeah! Making progress. That first drive is such a motivator when you get back, even if you just went around the block sitting on a milk crate, man it just gets you built up to keep going
You sure dodged a bullet checking the bolt pattern of that flexplate... Some were drilled for both patterns Not all....What is the stall speed of that converter? Part number please..
I remember the 1st gens were a PITA accessing two of the bellhousing bolts that were blocked by the firewall when pulling the engine in the car...I used a hole saw and drilled a one inch access hole for both in the firewall and used a plug to close them..
I have been burned by torque converter bolts not lining up, especially when adding new components to the mix. This torque converter is basically a stock replacement. I purchased it from Jegs Part Number : 82-47000
How much do you want for the old orange block and other parts
Depends how much you got right now in your shirt pocket? 😁
Where is the Live Wire?
We are having a shortage again!! 🙁