L82 ENGINE is OUT of the 1973 Camaro! What Went Wrong?! Revealing it's PAST LIFE!
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2020
- L82 ENGINE is OUT of the 1973 Camaro! What Went Wrong?! Revealing it's PAST LIFE!
This Week I pull and start to breakdown the 1973 Camaro Z28's engine. I also check the block numbers and see what kind of cam and other internal components were swapped out on this L82 small block chevy! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Good night!! Put some jack stands under that thing!! 😂 I’m still twitching.
Haha I had 2 beefy ones in the rear but the front 1 was a little sketchy for sure, thanks for your concern =)
@@RyanSampsonRPh I have the same Camaro. Same year and same color. Except no stripes. I think the stripes came with the Z-28 package?? Mine is a Z/28 with the LT package. I have recently converted it to an LS376/525 HP with a T56- Magnum.
@@r.reed.6657 Yeep they have a white or black option stripe depending on the trim ordered with the Z28. That engine sounds mean! If mine wasn't a numbers matching block I would be doing something similar to yours. Loved that you stuck with a "mans"mission, the T56 is great!
@@r.reed.6657 You should research your car at camaroreshearchgroup.org, Not 100% sure on second gen Camaros, But stripping was as you stated part of the "Z28" package, only. So all Z 28 cars came with those racing stripes. If in your car did not have stripes it may nor be a real Z.....
@@kensalazar5066 I believe the LT package deleted the Z-28 stripes.
Thanks for the link Ken
Making progress! Personally I’d keep the block orange. I’ve always felt that was iconic. Thanks for the vid!
Definitely agree
I agree too make that SBC look stock!!
Yes, rods have endplay (back and forth movement) in them. Otherwise they would destroy each other when rotating. Most endplay is about .015-.020 Yours is spot on.
Awesome, thanks!
He is right.
Great video. I personally would stick with the Chevy orange engine paint. I painted 1 gloss black with lots of chrome goodies. Decided it just didn't stand out the way I thought it would. So I turned around and painted Chevy orange and it just popped so much more. I don't remember if I used VHT or Duplicolor paint. But I bought I bought it at Autozone and it had ceramic coat or something like that in the name. Also I am the guy who had the white with black stripes 73 Z28. if I can get my son to show me how to send pictures to an email address, I will send you some pics of my car
JACK STANDS GUYS!!! Don't want this to be the LAST episode!!!
Holy crap, someone call OSHA
Seriously. I was anxious just watching that.
Didn't use jack stands, had a wheel off and decided to do an oil change. The torque of breaking the oil pan bolt pushed the car over, with my head directly under the oil pan. Just kind shoved and twisted while definitely blacking out and ended up twisted 180 degrees and only getting my legs partially pinned under the brake disc. If I hadn't realized the car was falling, my skull would have been pasted by my oil pan. Never, ever, ever skimping on stands, ever again.
Engine bay color is always a matter of preference. You have a pretty awesome numbers matching car, so there is something to be said about original factory appearance under the hood. Check crank thrust tolerance over all. That can tell you things. Number, then pull th pistons and check the rings and ring end gaps. Get the valve train gone through. Low compression could be as simple as a dirty valve seat in #4. Don’t overlook the pilot bearing in the flywheel. Check the surface of the pilot shaft on the trans against the pilot bearing. If it’s not right, that could push on the crankshaft when the trans is installed, and prematurely where out the crank thrust bearing. You’re on your way to a very cool build, and a real head turner of a ride.
Thanks for the tips (especially on the trans pilot shaft), still on the fence about the engine bay color especially thinking about the originallity aspect👍👌
Side clearance on your connecting rods won’t affect oil consumption. Looks like a fun project
I have a 74 Z28 I bought new. These motors are very strong. The motor originally had chevys special forged rods, forged pistons, 2.02 intake valves in the heads with screw in rocker studs and pushrod guide plates all premium features. The bottom end has 4 bolt main caps, forge crankshaft and as can be seen an oil control windage tray. Your cam spec is pretty radical, I run an Isky 280 mega cam with 232 duration at .050 lift, it only has 10 inches of vacuum at idle which can be a problem with power brakes. The block is special too with a higher tin content for more strength. Modern high performance cams are available that make good idle vacuum and sound great with good power.
I didn't know that about the tin content in the block, that's pretty cool. Yeah this cam is way too much for this, I will be swapping it out during the rebuild with a hydraulic one that doesn't have as crazy of a lift etc. Great to know these engines hold up well!
Check the valves for leaks, it sounded like it was pushing compression back into the intake when you were testing it. Go on can do a simple test with just some light solvent and leveling the head on a table to see if it leaks through the valves.
I heard that also, but I couldn’t tell where it was coming from.
This reminders me when my mom allowed me and my brother to use the end of her kitchen to builder Motors in a Clean and A/C area, so we could go raceing in the weekends at the track, I don't believe they have Mother like this anymore when I look back how my mom was so worried because what Drugs was destroying the youth of America and believed having her Son's always Close to her, God must have my mother in heaven she sure won her place in Heaven, God Bless Mom.
Leakdown testing would have pinpointed the problem. Time to invest in some good 3 ton jack stands. My guess is the valves on 4 are the culprit.
nice! im glad i ran across your videos.. im in the process of replacing the floor pans in my 73 type LT/RS my dad ordered this car new from the factory with the L82 TH350 and a/c
Love ur work ! Wish i had ur smarts back in the day when i had my 74 Z28 - that's going to be a sweet ride when ur finished - reliving my youth thanks 👍
Thank you Rick! I am still learning as I go on stuff every time I do something!
Go to a junkyard and get a set of pink rods 96-99 350 from a 3/4 ton lots of them cheap at pick a part yards. You have a great motor to build up. That's a decent cam also.
where the heck are your safety jacks? Be safe. Would like to see more of your videos.
Ryan, looks like you’re moving right along with your engine. Have you ever assembled or built a complete engine? Please have a reputable machine shop mic everything, replace all freeze plugs and cam bearings. If you’ve never built an engine and don’t have an experienced person to mentor you then may I suggest letting the machine shop at least build the bottom end and rework the cylinder heads. I would hate to see you have an issue after reinstalling the engine. If it was mine and the cylinder walls doesn’t need boring I would keep the dome top pistons and go to a hydraulic cam and lifters. For driving on the street and adjusting valves it’s so much easier. I can understand you not wanting to paint the engine the Chevy orange but I would keep the engine bay black. It’s such a survivor I myself would want to keep it that way or very close to the factory appearance. The clutch may have been good but a clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing replacement now may be money well spent along with resurfacing the flywheel. I built a few hot rods back in the seventies while working in a machine shop and if I was building or have one built now I would do everything that I’ve suggested here in my comments. Good luck and I’m looking forward to your first drive video after the build!
Agree with everything. Hydraulic cam or a hydraulic roller and definitely Chevy orange!
Yeep my mind is changing! Most likely will go more original with things. I have rebuilt a 283 and a 2 bolt main 350 so it's not my first time and I do have a really good matchine shop that will check everything out =). I agree with everything on the clutch and I am getting the flywheel re-surfaced. Don't want to do this anytime soon again lol
Ryan Sampson, I’m sure that you will do just fine on the build since you have a couple of build experiences under your belt. Really glad that you’re go more original and replacing the clutch system while you have it out. Even with an engine rebuild I would look at this 47 year old jewel as a survivor. Can’t wait for the test drive video!
@@donbearden1953 Thanks Don, looking forward to future comments from you!
Ryan Sampson, I hate to bug you but you have my full attention or curiosity on this build. I’m acting like a 6 or 7 year old kid instead of a 67 year old man. Do you mind giving us an update on your progress?
Thanks for taking us along for the tear down - interesting to see the step by step process. Great vlog.
As always, thank you for watching Ron 👍!
@@RyanSampsonRPh You have skills in mechanical, restoration, paint, body work, etc. - you are the whole package! I read that most of your skills are self taught, so where do you go for advice? I would be afraid to attempt an engine tear down (but I am inspired by you).
@@ecoron2721 Hey Thanks Ron! Honestly youtube, and the various forums I came across on google over the past 10 years; I have a decent memory so stuff accumulates in the ole memory bank lol. The paint/body work area took me the longest to learn (this was completely self-taught) but that just required going out and working on some test panels and adjusting from my previous mistakes. This is only my 3rd chevy engine rebuild but the 1st time I worked on a complete engine rebuild was when I was in middle school (13ish years ago) and I learned a few good tips from a very good mechanic that is friends with my Dad. Everything after that I kept progressing by reading and then going out to try it myself. Biggest thing is just trying it yourself; once you start it isn't as crazy as it looks!
Great video, Ryan. Looks like that engine has weathered the test of time pretty well. I agree with you about #4... probably rings, nothing else obvious. Cheers!
The engine was clearly rebuilt in 1989 and not many miles was put on after because the cross hatching is still visible and someone put dome pistons in it
Hey Ryan! Great job, I really respect your meticulous approach. I own more vintage Bow Ties then I care to mention. This car is special and an authentic real deal. Mic everything to make sure it's true. Cylinders look great, not sure if it's a standard bore but didn't see any ridge. Do your upgrades and detail the engine bay to your liking. I prefer the original look but hey it's your car.
Great build, keep up the good work. I enjoy your channel.
Estaba esperando este video! 👍🏻
That motor looks pretty fresh. Definitely not the stock pistons. Look like there 11:1 compression ratio with those domes on the top. Stock pistons in 1973 would be flat tops with 4 valve reliefs. Also that windage tray is not factory either. Looks like someone put together an LT1 shortbolck for that car. Also has the 4 bolt main but can't really tell with the tray on there. It's easy to say know, but it just could have been an overnighter rocker arm. A cylinder leak down test would have told you a lot.
Regardless, should be an easy rebuild and a real nice street motor. Good luck with it. Should be a fun street car.
Great video, congrats!
Movin right along Ryan. I think body color engine bay sounds cool. Also, not personally gonna miss chevy orange on the block. You are definitely a purist, which I greatly admire, but the hobby has always been about adding personal touches. Keep on truckin!
I like that your working on a engine & not a motor. I`ve worked on both & there is no similarity.
Truth!
I have a question , how much do you value your lives? Dude where in the hell are your jack stands?!!?
Did you slack the valves on 4? If one was tight, low compression.
Like the vids, want to see more, get some good jackstands!!
Nice job. The cam explains why I said in a earlier video that you would have trouble with it getting to idle smooth. You were fighting the carburetor when it was the cam. I couldn't tell if the block had 4 bolt mains, I'm sure it did. LT1 motor blocks had 4 bolt mains and they put them in Z28's. The pistons in my Z28 had dome pistons all so, not sure if they came stock or it was part of the rebuild before I purchased my Z. Can't wait for the next video. Be safe.
I think 73 Z28 could have had 2 bolt blocks as well, although that may be the exception rather than the rule. That being said, this looks like a 4 bolt block from what I could see under the windage tray.
They were designated L82 in '73 rather then the LT-1 like previous Zs. Factory pistons would have been flats with valve reliefs for a 9.0:1 CR.
Dude, you have a really nice engine there. It appears your engine has hardly any miles on it. Hopefully when you read this you haven't taken the bottom end apart yet. The first place to look for the low compression on cylinder 4 would be the heads. Those early "smog" heads are terrible for cracking across the exhaust seats on the middle two cylinders. It's also possible you may have a burnt valve on that cylinder but my experience tells me the valve lash was probably too tight on that one cylinder therefore not letting one of the valves to completely seat. Everything looks too good to me to rebuild this engine right now. It's very possible those are the stock pistons also. It doesn't look like the block has been bored either because i didn't see any markings on the top of the piston telling you how much overbore it is. It has a factory steel crank and windage tray in it also. I can't express enough how rare of an engine you have there. I'll give further details on what i see after you comment or if you have any questions.
Good job
Feeler gagues can be stacked, you probably have some that would have added up to 42 or 43 in that pack. Just a heads up for next time
love the videos just got a 1980 z28
The last time I saw side to side movement on connecting rods with that much clearance the engine was built for RPM. From what I saw with the cam specs I think that is what the previous owner was building the engine for.
The end play is ok it will tighten up a little with new bearings. With aftermarket pistons that is common. BTW very nice car
Is it on correctly with the flat side to side w the other rod
engine is in really good shape
Common for 2.02 heads to crack between in the valves. Please get some jack stands. That's allot of compression for the pump gas we have now. I agree it needs to go to a machine shop to be freshened up. That side play looks fine. Have your headers ceramic coated.
That engine looks good should be an easy rebuild a good idea the car is worth it do it your way good luck.
What you have there is a 73 L82 engine that someone has rebuilt to 70 Lt1 specs kept the smog heads and bumped the compression up from 9:1 slightly ,i'm guessing 10:1 using dome pistons ..... Lt1 heads would have netted 11:1 compression in order to run it on pump gas the timing would have to be turned so far back the compression increase would be pointless 47 yr old camaro with all it's original pieces is pretty rare NICE!!!!!👍👍👍😍
Yes those are L82 heads factory guidplates 2.200 valve s and yes should have flat top pistons and hydraulic camshaft same as my 74 z28 your engine looks pretty good shape very restorative
Young man u got a really good motor..just go through it..rings bearings ..fresh hone ..check all the valves an guides..replace all seals. Those valves look like 202 intake...who ever owned it before put a few bucks in to it.. apprentaseal gaskets for heads..ive used them in the past an they're really good..keep up the good work..
Great to know thank you John!
They came stock with 202 intake valves
You may have floating wrest pins. That will allow the rids to Duldey slightly
If you wanna know exactly what's best get the how to hot rod small block at your GM dealer ! My friends and I have drag raced a VERY long time, and we've had and have extremely fast car's and whatever your preference big or small block we've had big blocks for the strip and small blocks for the street with minimal problems ever ! And unbelievable fast car's all of em.
I will check it out, thanks!!
What u can do rite now is put a little bit of water in the port hole intake & see if the water leaks out & if it does u have a bad spring or bent valve or its just not setting rite.
Get a Luk clutch kit but a GM throw out bearing. All AC Delco places sell Luk and it’s equivalent to the stock clutch. The Hurst shifter is aftermarket and not from the factory for a FYI. Looking in my 1970 GM Overhaul Manual specs the rod bearing clearance is .008”-.014” for all small blocks.
I bet you will find you have a valve not seating properly on number 4 cylinder!
I am thinking you are right David!
Before you tore it down you could have hit the valve spring with a dead blow while the air was hooked up and it might have helped it seat.
i would put a new crank kit in a block that old. another thing to consider is rust pits on the backside of the cylinder walls , more so if someone has ran it with no antifreeze. me and a friend rebuilt his 350 engine in his 73 z28 and when the block was vatted it created a pin hole in #6 cylinder. little did we know until it started to hydraulic and wouldnt start. he swapped heads thinking that or the gaskets was the problem.. i came by after he had it tore completely down on the stand and looking at each cyl. very closely with a light i found one tiny speck the size of a straight pin. took a piece of fine wire and stuck it right through. he sleeved it and was good to go. i never trusted an old engine block again. its worth the money to buy a whole new deal from jegs.
Like that your staying away from a ton of Chrome, may look good to some, but it holds a lot of engine heat...
The cylinders are dry you should have put some oil in then done the test also make sure the valves are clean when they sit in open position sometimes they get dirty and don't seal but its to late now.
Maybe pour some gas or water down the port on #4 to see if the valves are leaking. There is really no way to reduce side to side clearance. You can try switching rod pairs around to see if you can match them up to minimum tolerances, but then you would have to rebalance. If you're doing a full rebuild it's usually cheaper to buy new rods than resize the old ones anyway. Good luck.
Thank you Rick!
I’d keep the original colors in the engine bay and block.
Lookin Forward To The Next One.
Ryan..has anybody ever told you that you resemble David Plough, QB for the Lions....very much so...check it out...bet he would love your Camaro too...
New sub, JMO, I'd stay as original as possible.
I can also tell just from u pulling the intake off that u have a few bent pushrods
hello ryan well it dont look bad at all got good engine to start with brother
Thanks dude!
Hey Ryan... Nice Progress and GREAT that your Dad is there to assist you! That said, the rod side play is seemingly normal for the Small Block Chevy and should NOT affect oil consumption. Cylinder Bores look good although I would send it to the machine shop and have it line-bored at least .010 thousands and use that same oversize dimension for the pistons and rings that select. Also, make sure that when you get the heads done that you install the "Ford Design" (6571) umbrella style stem seals over the top of the factory GM Seals. I used to use the 250 cid/6 cyl ones from the early 70's Part # D1DZ-6571-A (from memory as I recall), this will totally eliminate any oil from running down the valve stems yielding oil burn at start-up. Just my experience with Chevy V8's albeit not in years, but miss the process! Have FUN and remember to thank your Father as he won't be around forever//tomorrow is not guaranteed for any of us ';-)
Thank you for all of your tips! I no longer take anything for granted and cherish each moment with my Dad!
Bronze guides Teflon seals
How much play do the other rods have ?
the old Sonic Turbo mufflers, right on
I was looking for jack stands too.....know two people who had accidents without...
No jackstands and a 1.5 ton lightweight jack... Hope you guys live!
replace all the bearings of coarse rod bearings will tighten the looseness prolly the ring gap or broke ring and you removed the heads the right way
Quite the little Powerhouse got there from the factory double hump 202 I didn't notice of us 4 bolt Main anywho everybody knows you got to paint the engine Orange it automatically adds 10 more horsepower haha it's great to see how the numbers have climbed on your channel seem like it wasn't that long ago you was under 2,000 congratulations buddy
Not double hump heads, those are early smog heads, 194/150's
@@boogieman3165 They look like 2.02 to me (valves almost touching, intake seat cut into quench area) . but yeah, not 186 or 492 double humps, these are 76cc heads. GM 330545 if original. The pointed casting marks tend to support this.
@@timpsensky5181 Yeah, i went back and looked at the video again and it is probable they are 202's, also considering the other performance work that i see has been done you're probably right.
Jack stands Vato, jack stands looks like the timing points were not lined up correctly ....we wanna C u complete that survivor bro, safety amigo!!! good luck
H Colin I will be a little safer next time, thanks man! 👍👌
If you have any machine work done, DONT deck the block unless you absolutely have to. My 72 was decked sometime on a previous rebuild when matching numbers wasn't a thing, and even though the casting numbers and date code are all correct, I can never prove it is the original like you can.
Have your rods resized. Mic your crank mains and rod journals and cut if needed. Put new bearings in and that should fix your end play.
Just dropped everything off at the machine shop, he is doing just about everything you mentioned (good call) and I will be putting in new bearings after he is done with all the machine work!
Did it come factory with a Dual timing chain ?
Also that crank kinda looks aftermarket, should measure the piston sweep and see if it's a stroker.
its a GM 3941182 forged steel crank. probably the original on that engine.
Not a z28, check out first start video, great photo shop work with trim tag
Not sure of how many thousands, but the rods are supposed to have a little side to side play. You should check into it and find out how much though. Love the Camaro !! I've got a 2000 Silverado with the 5.3 and I'm changing the heads and putting in a Brain Tooney stage 2 truck cam. I'm using mls head gaskets and it took like 2 hours to sand the heads with 500 grit sandpaper to get them smooth enough for the gaskets. By the way, you might have a 400 small block there. The 400 had a 8 inch balancer, looks like yours is also. Measure the bore, if it's 4.125 or bigger do to being bored and honed, it's the bad boy 400 !! Chevy rocks, keep it going !! Oh yeah, by the sound, I'd say you have a burnt exhaust valve on number 4. If you notice, you can hear it building compression while you turn the engine over.
Thanks Jimmy! I am going to have the machine shop measure everything up and report back on exactly what I have. Sounds like that 5.3 of yours is gonna run real nice!
Great video!! Just want to say something about that jack stand I saw in the video.... those type are dangerous. They’re basically made of thick sheet metal. Invest in better ones. Just saying.
I had some beefy ones in the rear but the front ones do look cheap lol ( I have always used them since I was a kid but I will now re-think using that kind) thanks for the concern!
@@RyanSampsonRPh ya!! Don’t need something happening. I need to see that cat finished!! I had a 71 z28 and now live vicariously through your videos!!
Your side play is minimal and you must have it.Vertical is commonly referred to as a KNOCK!!! Also go for no more than°240/248 at .050 with anti-pump up hydraulics/6600rpm . That big cam probably gave u ur knock. Don't forget the engine doesn't have to do all the work.I run 4.88's in my Nova,carries the front wheels in first and second if I have my slicks on. Make your sure u have a steel crank-machine flat spot where flywheel bolts to crank flange, also crank will ring like a bell when u hit it with something.
Great advice that I will take, thanks!
That steel crank needs side clearance it's fine
Sounded to me like the compression tester wasn't tight in the spark plug hole (#4)
Looks like u have all the good stuff, 2.02 heads, rock crusher
Look at the rings on the input shaft, I bet that isn't an M22, probably a 20 wide ratio.
@@danieltubbs5422 No sir, it is an M22 rockcrusher, fine spine and two rings.
@@boogieman3165 No it's not! 2 rings is a wide ratio!
@@jimmccune568 I stand corrected, it is an M20 but the rings are not an identifier of wide or close ratio, vin number will identify.
I'VE HAD A FEW L82 SETUPS...FROM MY VETTES....I,M A SBC 400 MAN. I GOT A 1987 PONTIAC TRANS AM GTA TUBE CHASSIS DRAG CAR IM FINISHING UP.
Nice! Good luck with your build!
@@RyanSampsonRPh THANK YOU...
you got a rather stout motor there. keep it
I'd Replace All The Bearings. Check Crankshaft Thrust After Installing New Main Bearings
For sure going to replace all the bearings now! I will have to check the thrust after like you mentioned too to see if it fixed the situation
Ryan, I'd Mic The Crankshaft Main & Rod Journals Also. Just A Suggestion
Doug Causey Thanks Doug, I will have the machine shop check it out for me when I drop everything off👍
Wouldnt b surprised if there was a flat cam lobe
also new piston rings and valve guides
That engine would be very healthy the way it is set up. Keep in mind it's probably around 11:1 compression so you'll always have to run high octane fuel in it to prevent detonation. The side to side play in the rods is completely normal. Replacing the bearings will not make it any less.
Exactly the comment I have been waiting for thank you! I was thinking this was on the edge of being unable to even use 93 octane, thinking of toning it down a little with some flat top pistons with a hydraulic cam
@@RyanSampsonRPh With those 76cc heads you'll be lucky if you're running 10:1 but even then it will require 91 to 93, whatever is available to your area. Also, I agree the side to side play is completely normal.
@@boogieman3165 Awesome to know, thank you!
@@RyanSampsonRPh - Premium pump gas... plus an ounce or two of kerosene per tankful IF still getting pinging on acceleration with 36 degrees max ignition timing... That's a 500 HP cam with the right heads/compression ratio... Rod side clearance has nothing to do with burning oil... and it's a wide tolerance...
That movement on the rods is normal while it shouldn't be real slackey it's normal I think it's 3 thousands if I remember correctly
Squirt some oil in weak cylinders compression goes up rings stay the same valves.
ah back in the day when engines were much easier to work on.
Sweet car
Thanks 😁
They didn't come with Hurst linkage from the factory. Unfortunately ☹️
It probably says CLJ, correct for a 1973 Z-28 with four speed.
To me it looked like CLB.... to me it did not look like a J
Never use a torque wrench to loosen bolts
eds1990sporty that was not a torque wrench
It looked like a normal half-inch drive ratchet handle to me.
It was a cheater pipe on the ratchet handle he was using to break the bolts loose, not a torque wrench!! May need to get a new pair of glasses there Ed
one word of advice. it is actually easier to remove and install the trans under the car than trying to take it all out as one unit. it also make removing and installing the engine easier , since you don't have to worry about the getting it in as one piece. those Pistons are the Old TRW forged pistons. TRW was one of the OEM suppliers to GM for pistons. so they are probably stock. I could see the L22 number on them. but not if they were over sized or not. they should have a .030 or .060 if the engine was bored over size ant any point in its life. the factory L82 had a 76cc combustion chamber and they used domed pistons to get the compression up to 9:1. the cam looks like it has some abnormal wear and some pitting on the lobe at 11:28 in the video.. the piston rod side clearance should be around .015 -.020 inch on the high performance engines like the LT1350 and the L82 350 that came in your car. so what you are seeing is normal. it still have the factory oil pan and windage tray. that's pretty awesome. those are defiantly the 76 CC combustion chamber heads. so i would guess that its around 9 to 9.5:1 compression with those small domes. one thing to check is the valve seats. the early cars used regular leaded gasoline back then. so the valve seats wear out pretty quick on modern unleaded fuel. especially if it contains 10% or more ethanol.
from what i can see here it looks like the noise is cam/lifter/pushrod related. there was some wear on the pushrod tips, also it didn't look like there was any lash on the valves. I don't think they were adjusted right the last time they were done. which may have been why you were hearing noise. mechanical cams should have a little bit of a tic to them. they should sound like a sewing machine when they are adjusted properly. I think that cam needs around .025 inch valve lash if i remember correctly. that cam is a pretty hot number designed for Street/Strip performance with an engine that has 10.5:1 - 12.0: compression. so it might be a little on the big side for your engine, if your engine is a 9:1 compression engine. you may want to consider something a little smaller, like the COMP XE268H or XE274H for better manners on the street and better performance. it also uses a hydraulic lifter so they will not need to be adjusted all the time if your plan is to drive it on the street.
one other thing to note is the wear and pitting on the cam. the were could be cause by the valves being incorrectly adjusted. but the pitting is caused by moisture inside the engine and the oil not doing a good job of protecting the components. most modern oil does not have enough ZDDP (around 4-800ppm ZDDP) or corrosion additive package to protect a flat tapped (hydraulic or solid) cam. flat tapped cams need around 1600pmm ZDDP. I would highly recommend switching to AMS Oils Z-Rod or Lucas Hot Rod and Classic motor oil. both of brands easily match the ZDDP requirement in addition to having a anti-corrosion additive designed for classic cars that are not driven frequently. this prevents rusting in side the engine, were moisture can accumulate or condense out the the air while it is sitting. one of the weird things that can happen in an engine is that all of the oil can drained down in to the oil pan and moisture will condense on the cool metal surfaces, then drip down on top of the oil and because there is not a lot of water in the engine, it cannot break the viscosity bond of the oil and will actually float on top of the oil and not sink to the bottom of the pan, then when the temperature warms up the moisture evaporates again and repeats the process all over again causing more rust. which is why a good oil with an anti corrosive additive is essential for old cars that are not driver frequently.
Man this information is gold, thank you so much for typing all of this! The cam in the car is for sure too hot for it. I was planning to go with the comp cams XE268H (been researching combos for months) so you know your stuff! Also good catch on the pistons, next video I was going to talk about them so I held out on some info on purpose but you are right, it is bored 0.030 over! Piston number is "L2252A." I feel better about the side play that you mentioned was normal too. I will for sure be running zinc/better oil even after break in when the engine is rebuilt. My plan is to go with XE268H, put the original heads in a box to store them, get some AFR heads 65cc chambers (most likely 180cc vs 195cc for low end grunt but still on the fence), flat top pistons with proper rings etc. Thanks again!
@@RyanSampsonRPh the L2252 piston is a old TRW design. TRW was bought by Speed-Pro back in the early 2000s. they are still available from Speed-Pro under part number L2252YF. they have an 11cc dome on them. with that piston your compression will be around 10.3 with the 76CC combustion chambers. and standard .036 compressed thickness head gaskets. these pistons sit about .025 down in the cylinder bore at TDC. the only difference between the old TRW design and the Speed-Pro versions, is that speed pro added and anti scuffing coating on the piston skirts on all the new pistons. the XE268H is a great cam. the LSA is a little tight at 110, which can make them idle a little rough. a little secret is that COMP also offers the XE268H cam with a 114 degree LSA under grind number CS XE268H-14. it idles a lot better than the 110 LSA cam and has a wider power band between peak torque and peak horse power. which makes it a great street cam.
@@shadvan9494 Awesome I found the 114 LSA version like you mentioned on Summit's site. Going to make a trip soon to pick up everything from them so your comment came at a perfect time, thanks again!
I want that rx8
That motor is fine don't touch it the rods are fine too run it get some gaskets and put it all together again
So no Chevy orange block. Thats craziness
There's a 75 z28 wannabe in my neighborhood sale its not the 70-72 that if I were in the market for a camaro I definitely would buy but after stumbling onto your channel its given me the "bug" I usually stick with the front and rear steel bumper c3 if im gonna get involved in a new project but this camaro is super clean and wouldn't take much so thanks for that. If your having the block decked make sure u get a super reliable shop with a beaming reputation so when your numbers get erased and they restamp it no one will question the integrity of the matching number claim. It might be worth rebuilding a good 350 something with a 4 bolt main that u cam stroke and give it.some HP and stick the original motor in storage. Ive done that to a couple of c3s is the past and although camaro people are nowhere near the pain in the ass vette people are it still might be a good idea unless your.gonna take it to shows and don't wanna explain the whole thing . Im excited for u dude im on pins and needles for the next vid!
Thanks again Tony! I started in the vette world (C3) then moved onto a few C1's. This is my first camaro I have owned. The bug is a sickness so I hear ya lol!
@@RyanSampsonRPh first vette was a 59 lmk if u need help its my favorite vette ever!
Tony Runyon Awesome! I am in the process of doing an NCRS resto (off-camera) of a 61 base (3speed, single carb, 230hp) vette on top of the Camaro stuff. So the 59 was similar and I knew what to look for in terms of rott in the frame/cracks in the body but any knowledge you have when the time comes would be awesome! love the exhaust how it comes through the rear on the 59 and always wanted that style C1. Hope you stick around on here when I start the vette’s resto after the camaro is done! 👍👍
@@RyanSampsonRPh im.not goin anywhere. I just stumbled upon your.channel.which is funny. The.best advice for that 59 is make sure all your replaced event parts are era/date stamp correct , gm hadn't starte matching #s yet in 59 so make sure trans engine and different all have the proper date codes for what would've cone with that car, if u plan on keeping it original, if u restore mod well than it really doesn't matter go nuts!
12:27 I think that thats not right,fix it,that could be a problem at very high rpm's
This car is ASSUME!!!! The worn out rod bearings is causing the vertical play!!! Send it to a machine shop and they can get some of those details milled out.
You forgot to mark the timing before pulling the chain.
well replace main bearings, rod bearngs and cam bearings /make her like a new motor i want to watch
I need those pistons
If this was my car I'd build engine for max horse & torque all top grade internals top performance heads intake and fuel injection carb
Send the heads out have them checked! And paint the engine stock orange! OEM brings more money and looks better at car shows!!