How To Replace the Anode Rod in Your Water Heater Step-By-Step
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- čas přidán 19. 12. 2019
- How To Replace the Anode Rod in Your Water Heater Step-By-Step - Water Heaters 101
How to replace the anode rod in your water heater. Today I'm going to show an easy plumbing repair that can really extend the life of your water heater by a long shot! Replacing the anode rod in your water heater isn't hard to do and can save you money by increasing the life of your water heater. I recommend replacing your anode rod annually to really extend the life of your water heater.
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Do you think you can change the anode rod in your water heater? Let me know!
I think I can, but Im facing my first problem. The head of the anode rod is damage and I cant take it off now. I was using a 1 1/16 socket wrench with a breaker bar. How can I do it now? thank you
I have changed out anode rods and they can be a bitch. The problem is that you may have had years of thermal cycling on the pipe dope. Also, the anode can be so tight that it is very difficult to restrain the tank while you wrench on the anode rod.
Big tip, take a torch to the head of the anode rod. Also use a 6 point socket that you have ground the face back. The head of the anode is thin so grinding the face back will give you more wrench on the anode.
No, because I don't have 10' ceilings in my basement. :(
Well, yes, thanks to your video :) BUT, in my case, the cold water inlet to the gas heater is about 30 years old and it did not close properly. I should have caught this when I relieve the pressure by turning on a faucet inside the house and hot water still came out... So, turn off the main water valve, if that is possible, as a security measure.
For me, the heater is inside the garage, so the water that shot out of the anode rod hole just went to the drive way and did not cause any damage. However, the water also went inside the heater through the exhaust vent hole in the center and the burner and the ignitor were wet, so I was not able to light the pilot after I replaced the rod. I then went on youtube and found another video on how to remove the burner to dry to burner, the piezo ignitor, used a wet vacuum to dry up the camber as much as possible (only about 24 oz of water at the bottom), wiped dry the inspection window glass, and was able to relit the pilot.
Also, I only have about 2 feet of clearance between the top of the heater and the ceiling, I was going to cut off the old rod in sections (you would need to hold it, so that it won't drop down to the hole), but the heater was 15 years old, so the old rod was pretty much gone to the core wire which came out without any issue.
I had a gas water heater recently installed. copper soldered lines into both hot and cold on the tank. The cold side right off the nipple is hotter than the hot side. Much hotter in fact, I can't hold on to it for long. it is heating the rest of the city water line. I don't think that is normal. what would cause this?? The rest of my house receives hot and cold water like normal as the cold line has a T to bypass tank
.
I just changed mine two days ago. However, It was not a Bradford White. It has the anode rod with the 1 1/16 bolt head. The hardest part was breaking the old one free, I used a large breaker bar while giving the water heater a bear hug, and it still was not easy. It was a standard rod, so it hit the ceiling before it was out, so I used Vise-Grips to grip the rod right at the tank, and cut it in half with a reciprocating saw, after wrapping the lower portion with a towel so I wouldnt get shavings in the tank. For the replacement, I used one of the four-sectioned rods that are connected with stainless wire. Easy.
The fun anode rods. Are when you use your pipe wrench to remove nipple for anode rod and pipe crushes. Or when nipple threads are exposed only. And you crush the threads when you attempt to remove anode rod
It so easy to do it, I also help two of my friends check and see it need to change out!
Thank you. You hit the important parts of this job.
Roger,
Thank you for such a well made video. My question is about the “black tee” you mentioned. How does this help? If I tighten it with clock wise rotation to the nipple then apply a counter clockwise force to break loose the anode won’t the anode stay stuck and the tee come off the anode/hot water nipple? Are the threads on the tee reversed? Please explain.
Hi Roger, thank you for this video, it’s excellent as always. Question about the three inch iron tee. Can I apply Teflon tape to the threads to help make it easier to disassemble once I’m done?
Rheem Classic and the rod was buried under 2” of spray foam under that plastic cover.
Thanks for all your vids. Really helpful
My pleasure!
How should I store an unused gas water heater for possible future use? Would it best to leave it in a flowing water line or store it dry? Any recommendations to store it safely and make it reusable?
Got a question...I have a BW 50 gal WH but I see there's lots of different Anode Tubes available. How do I know which is the right one for my WH?
Thank you
Onething I like to add: if the anode comes with a nut: DO use the right tool to screw/unscrew it. If You use a wrench and damage the nut by slipping of with the wrench, you will make it harder on yourself to remove the anode next time.
1 1/16” socket always
Thanks, Rog~
Any opinions on the electric anode replacements? Effective as advertised? Or witchcraft?
How does the "black threaded T" thing work exactly?
Thnx for the T tip!
Any time!
I did change my out, but how long did it last??
What if your bradford white is power vented and the anode rod is stuck. Should I take the power vent off 1st so I can fit a pipe wrench on?
You could. It's not that hard to remove the power vent, but usually the power vent doesn't obstruct the hot outlet that much.
Instead of a normal sacrificial anode rod I am installing an electric water heater anode rod by Corro-Protec. It has a 20 year warranty
Lost me @ 3:02: "... and put a black threaded T on there..." What?? With instructional videos, if you say something, you should demonstrate what you're talking about.
It’s a fitting. But yeah, he should have had one to demonstrate, since it’s a DIY video.
Yeah, makes no sense to me. You thread it on there and then "tighten" it??
What he's saying is that once you tighten the fitting down on top of the anode rod threads it will crank the fitting on so tight that it will start to spin the anode rod (Tightening down the fitting on the threads) thus breaking loose the anode rods hold on the Water Heater threads then you can start to unthread the anode rod by cranking off the fitting and the Anode rod together.
@@stephen2220 Good explanation, although I question whether or not it would work reliably. I just put my Knipex channelocks on the very lowest portion of the threads and managed to get it out. Ideally you have a long enough nipple on your anode rod that there's a good place for a pipe wrench without wrecking the threads. I was worried that I'd wreck the threads, not get the anode out, but not be able to screw the union back onto the anode, and I'd need a plumber on an emergency basis...
I can't find the threads to get my anode rod back in!!! It's in the hole but not catching threads
Thanks for this video, I do have a few questions.
How do you get the Anode Rod out if it’s in a closet & you dot have the space to pull it out?
Also, as a general rule, what should it cost to have a plumber come change this rod for you?
If you have a water Softener for super hard water, do you still need to change the Anode Rod?
Thanks for your help?
If its the old one, and you have no room, you will have to cut the anode in pieces. Then you will have to buy an anode that is "Sectional" Which looks like a pipe, with chain between them.
(Kind of like Num Chucks) Ask the big box dude of your choosing. Ask him for a sectional anode. (this is a common thing).
@@mk8530 It would probably be better to go to a plumbing supply house rather than a big box. The big box stores don't carry as much plumbing stuff, and may or may not have a competent guy in the plumbing section to help you.
Or the kicker. The threads rust out to anode rod nipple. And you need to remove old threads or retap water heater female inlet. Fun fun fun
Hahaha I know i was watching this thinking hmmm hes got Rubber gloves on but hes working on a brand new never been used heater in his office and I dont think ive ever changed an Anode rod on a heater that new where i could get the rod out with a pair of smooth jaw channel locks hahaha.
Yeah. This is an educational video that is pretty accurate.
But in real life situations things are not as straight forward. Situations change the outcomes in the field.
Always good to see a familiar face to help with your problems 🥹
I wish you showed us the threaded T trick. I can't seem to wrap my head around what you meant.
Ah if only all it were that easy in the field.
So you need to replace them after the first year? I thought they only seal the new tanks for the first year?
Is all gas water heater has an anode rod. I have a gpsp 50 100 AO smith power shot gas water heater I cannot find the anode rod.
The main anode rod might hide underneath the electric blower. RHEEM powervent water heater hide the anode rod underneath the electric blower so I have to remove the blower unit to replace anode rod.
Can I tip the water heater to put the anode rod? I already brought straight one and will take 3 months to get replacement.
Yes, just bring a mop
It's better to show it via real active water heater tank; this way the audience will learn the tips/tricks on how to unscrew the stuck threaded tee
Help! I've replaced the anorod, shut all the elec, water, etc off.
Completely emptied the tank, using a hose at the bottom opening.
BUT...the water still stinks very badly.
Any ideas? Thanks!
did you replace the anode with an aluminum rod?
@@Bendc1970A1 I replaced it with a magnesium flexable rod, as I have a low basemnt ceiling.
who carries the sectional anode rod? is that the manufactuerer or a specific vendor. Honestly, I just replace the water heater most times it fails. besides a pilot assembly under warranty on those crap GE, or Rheem, or Whirpool water heaters.
Excellent video! The problem I see with using a flexible anode rod is that it comes with a thick plastic center core inside the top of the threads where you insert the Heat Trap. The Heat Trap will not fit with this plastic core installed, it must be removed by cutting it out which is a real pain to do, then once you remove it and you go to insert the Heat Trap it now fits to loose. #1 Should I just leave the plastic core installed and not use the Heat Trap -OR- #2 Cut out the plastic center core and use Teflon tape around the Heat Trap to keep it from moving around ? Thanks for your help!
If its been more than a year can i still replace mine?
Replacement anode was about 4" too long as it bumped bascement ceiling. cut off about 4 inch (100mm) of rod with hacksaw. then it went into place of old rod that was deteriated away.
THATS the same thing gonna do mine is NEW B/W water heater, so have years to go to change that , but .i have to Cut it in half , mine is inside the closet
Anybody used an IMPACT WRENCH to get the hex fitting loose on an anode rod that is separate from the hot water line?
People do that all the time.
I pulled out anode rod in a Rheem gas professional power vent after 20 months of use and it was completely gone except for 1/“2 at first I thought they forgot to install it. We have well water with water softener.
Yikes. Maybe the problem is the water softener. You might consider running unsoftened water on the hot side. An aluminum rod would last longer compared to magnesium. You might want to look at an electric anode rod (Corro-Protec).
Do I need to do this to mine since it’s about a year old now? And also do I need to flush it out yet?
I’d take it out and look at the condition of it. depending on your water quality you may or may not need to. How old is your water heater and has it ever been flushed?
@@RogerWakefield It’s never been flushed and was installed when my house was remodeled in mid 2022
I would flush it annually, depending on how hard your water is.
Guys please don’t use channel locks when you could use a wrench/socket there’s a reason no other profession does that. Unless you’re gonna trash that piece
He used channel locks on the smooth sides of the pipe.
Pretty hard so far, since I have yet to attempt it. I have a Bradford White and can only see the threads on the top, there is no good area to place a wrench except on the threads where it'll be damaged. I only have about 1-foot of vertical clearance, and the manufacturer's website doesn't list a segmented replacement part for my model. If my water heater goes there is no way I will ever choose this brand again. Having a simple 1"1/16 hex bolt is a billion times easier.
I agree... No more Bradford white for me either. Get the $10 angle grinder from harbor freight. Get good disks though, Not HF disk. (Dewalt is okay.... Diablo is probably the best. ) Pull out the rod, and cut, then pull out more and cut (hold it so it doesn't fall in the tank, I like to use a clamp and just clamp around it, and let that rest on the water heater. The Clamps at HF are good and cheap for this.
Also, remove your heating elements first... easy to do... and you won't damage them if they are out of the tank.
@@ACoustaDC Thanks for the clamp idea. I'm looking at having to flush my water heater and replace the elements anyway because I think they're already corroded, figured I'd probably replace the anode while I'm at it but it was installed right under some stairs (geniuses I tell ya), so I'll likely have to cut the rod as I remove it, but was worried about having to keep the pieces from dropping back in as I cut. Thanks for that!
@@nova31337 Good luck! Let us know how it works out..... You should be fine though... It's about a 14 cuss word repair
Good thing you wore nitrile gloves on a unit that wasn’t installed or functional
So, you change it once a year? Or how do you know When it is time to change it..
Depends how harsh your water is. I do mine every 3 years in Vancouver Canada where we have soft water. If your anode isn't a part of the hot side, it's easy to take it out and see see how corroded it is. Once its skinnier than 1/2 it's diameter i'd say it's time to replace it. Also I highly recommend magnesium rods as opposed to aluminum unless you have problems with sulphur.
Anton Babiy cool thanks!!!
Not annually. 3-5 years
@@AntonBabiy I like magnesium because aluminum puts toxic aluminum ions in your hot water. (Magnesium is actually good for you.) You should never drink or cook with hot water, but most people don't know that. The problem with magnesium is that it doesn't last as long as aluminum.
If the anode rod wasn’t replaced in seven years, is it too late to stop corrosion in the tank, or will there still be a benefit from doing it?
Mine is 25+ years old and still working, and it's never been changed, would changing it have helped? Would it help to change it now? Is some water more protective to the tank than others as to why the tank lasted so long?
@@DavidStrchld Good water is always going to be a help. I just replaced my anode rod after 13 years of not changing it. Of course it was totally shot. At the moment I'm waiting for the insulation to dry out after a water leak from the replaced anode that wasn't tight enough. I'm thinking to myself I could have done nothing and the farging heater probably would have lasted for years, but whatever. If I'm lucky it will save me from replacing the whole unit sometime soon.
Talking about installing a t was incredibly confusing and made no sense whatsoever
Are all anode rods 3/4”?
The bolt on the top is 1 1/16. Practically all of them have the same size bolt head.
If I had my life to live over again I would have married an HVAC/Plumber guy.
No need to marry another guy! Tell your husband now, to get into plumbing/HVAC😎
If the heater is 6 years and never been flushed do you just change the anode rod with water inside? The other video said not to flush at that point because the sediment is probably what’s keeping it from leaking.
He says you’re just taking the pressure off, not draining it.
I am thinking of going tank-less for the comfort of endless hot water.
The tank seems like a waste of money over the long term.
What do you think ?
Tankless has not come along far enough yet. The sytems require yearly maintenance and can be very pricey.. Do you have a large family? Are you having trouble with running out of hot water now? You might want to consider adding a storage tank to your system with your current tanked water heater before you go for tankless.
Increasing the temp above 120 on the tankless water heater will only give you more problems,then that's when you'll regret it
Tankless is crap... Too many thing going on. I would highly avoid it.. Tank water heater is simple as it can be. I like to Keep it simple keep my customers happy. 😎
....save the earth and stay limited ;-) also consider the actual cost of maintaining the tankless unit or units compared to the tank you are familiar with. Several products are out there such as a Rheem Tank Booster that give your water heater a substantial increased "capacity", swapping to a Marathon water heater is a good option, but weigh the cost especially if you are not the one intending to maintain your own equipment. If you shop on Amazon and buy a less expensive Rinnai unit, look into the venting requirements as well because some of the venting material can cost as much or more than the unit itself..
Importantly do not take for granted what you have, other countries still boil water on a stove and let it cool enough to run it over a strainer and call that a "hot shower", a few gallons at a time.
Get a marathon water heater by Rheem and no need to change the anode because there is none 😁
of course is like 3 times more expensive then regular water heater , if i wanna do that & have that kinda of money ..i just go tank less & is the BEST way to go
@@SFBenjaminK Tankless is great if you want to wait forever for your water to get hot.
How do you get a job as a plumber with no experience?...seems like all these companies only want guys with at least 2+ years experience
Often the Union has an apprenticeship program. You will start working, get wages and take classes nights or weekends to learn everything you need to know to become a journeyman.
Each year as your skills progress your wages go up and your skill will be worth the money you make.
Why replace the rod after only 1 year?
Depending on the water quality you might have to replace it after a year
Suggestion: Talk less, say more.
🤔🤔