How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod | This Old House
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 11. 2012
- This Old House plumbing and heating contractor Richard Trethewey shows a simple way to add years to your water heater, by swapping out the sacrificial metal rod that prevents rust inside the tank. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
SUBSCRIBE to This Old House: bit.ly/SubscribeThisOldHouse
Time: 30 to 60 minutes
Skill level: Easy. The toughest part is loosening the old anode rod.
Shopping List for How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod:
- anode rod [amzn.to/2LnxKXa]
- steel pipe [amzn.to/2NQtUHC], used to provide extra leverage to ratchet wrench
- teflon tape [amzn.to/2HPb0Nt]
- garden hose [amzn.to/2HNkFEk], used to partially drain the water heater
Tools for How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod:
- screwdriver [amzn.to/2N3Nlxd], used to remove cover from water heater, if necessary
- ratchet wrench [amzn.to/2LuzZqd] and 1 1/16-inch deep socket [amzn.to/2PMmQOJ]
Steps:
1 Turn off water and fuel supply (gas or electricity) to water heater.
2 Partially drain the water heater.
3 Locate the anode rod on the water heater; if necessary, unscrew and lift off the cover from the top of the heater.
4 Use a ratchet wrench and 1 1/16-inch deep socket to unscrew the anode rod from the heater.
5 If the anode rod won't budge, slip a steel pipe onto ratchet wrench handle for extra leverage.
6 Lift out and discard the old anode rod.
7 Wrap Teflon tape around threads of new anode rod; insert anode rod into water heater and tighten with 1 1/16-inch socket.
8 If limited space above the heater prevents the installation of a standard anode rod, install a collapsible type.
9 Turn on the water and fuel supply to the water heater.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers-and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
Looking for more step by step guidance on how to complete projects around the house? Join This Old House INSIDER to stream over 1,000 episodes commercial-free: bit.ly/2GPiYbH
Plus, download our FREE app for full-episode streaming to your connected TV, phone or tablet: www.thisoldhouse.com/pages/st...
Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House:
Facebook: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseFB
Twitter: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseTwitter
bit.ly/AskTOHTwitter
Pinterest: bit.ly/ThisOldHousePinterest
Instagram: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseIG
bit.ly/AskTOHIG
For more on This Old House and Ask This Old House, visit us at: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseWebsite
How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse - Jak na to + styl
When you get a new water heater the first thing you should do (prior to installing it) is take out the anode rod (before it has become corroded and fused to the threads) and wrap the threads in teflon tape then re-insert and tighten (but don't tighten it stupid-tight). This way, a few years down the line when it's time to replace the rod you'll actually be able to remove it.
or put some pipe dope on it so it won't be too hard to pull it out
@@Hever73 either seems to work for their intended purposes but it's interesting to me how there's these 2 camps where 1 prefers teflon and 1 prefers the blue paste. It's almost political. lol
whooppss
Excellent idea! Wish I'd thought of it sooner.
That's a great man for actually calling out the size of that socket required
HEADS UP. Don't let any of the insulation fall into the heater tank or it might jam your faucet. Happened to me a few days after replacing the anode.
i think that's obvious.
@@dudef594 Not obvious, just did mine. I had my shop vac working, but I can see a newbie missing something. I had to cut through three inches of insulation to get to the hex head on my AO Smith. Lots of loose bits.
Good Looking Out
Luckily I don’t have insulation in my basement!
@@BasiclyYoutastic - He’s talking about the insulation surrounding the water heater. Check out a cut-away of a water heater.
I just got done replacing my anode rod. It was beyond tight being the factory rod. Tried to use a long extension for leverage but no avail. Easiest solution, impact wrench, worked like a charm and loosened the rod with ease!!
Did just that today and it worked like a charm.
Yep. Love how the tank demonstrated has no lines connected to it. Their leverage/cheater bar cannot be done in all environments.
Thank you. I luckily read this before starting.
How old was your water heater at the time?
@@jheckmann 4 years old...
When you need more torque in New England, you use a CHEATAH BAH!
Funny!!
Used to call that length of pipe a "persuader" when removing steam pipes.
My dad switches between persuasion and cheater bar
In my "new" house, I ran into space issues being able to get a cheater bar onto the breaker bar to get the old anode rod out and ended up using a cordless impact and it worked like a champ. conductive pipe dopes are made, but thread tape shreds when the parts thread together and won't be enough to break electrical contact between the anode and the tank. All the pipe dope or thread tape does is fill in any little imperfections in the ridges and valleys and the threads during compression that would allow leakage past the point of contact. An impact is only good for removal of the anode as impact tools are really not designed for use on pipe thread. Over torquing of something like pipe thread can actually cause galling of the threads, so you'll want to do the re-install with a standard ratchet driver or breaker bar. I like to drop a camera in my water heater and look for any obvious defects from time to time, and the best view is when the water heater is dry. It drains a whole lot easier when it it is well vented, so if you want to inspect while replacing, you can save a lot of time with your handy vent hole while the rod is out, which I think works better than a faucet. After changing the rod, weather drained or not, there will be some air in the hot water pipes. I like to go around the house and turn all of the faucets on about 1/4 turn (hot water only) so that I can re-fill and vent the whole system at once. Starting closest to the water heater, I shut the faucets off after water is air free, and then keep doing that until I am at the last faucet. In reverse order, I fully open all of the faucets to get a higher velocity flush, which helps to sweep any air out of high or horizontal runs of pipe.
Awesome, I have the same issue and won't have my son to help....he's off on basic training. Gonna be a Navy SARC. Impact wrench it is. Thanks for the tip.
Very informative video. I changed the sac anode in my Richmond water heater when the water heater was three years old. To my great dismay, I found that the sac anode had been coated with a wax-like substance so only the scratched areas presented any metal to the water to protect the tank. Best advice with a new water heater is to remove the sac anode, inspect and scrape it down to bare metal, apply teflon tape to the threads and re-install it. As Rich said, sac anodes are made from aluminum, magnesium or zinc. The different metals protect against different water types. Read up about that and buy accordingly. All three are cheap and readily available at the home centers.
It’s 2024. This video is now 11 years old, and still more informative than the lazy bums at Lowe’s!
"Very few things in my industry are standard" - you got that right. I always said that plumbing was invented by the Druids and good luck a replacement part or even identifying what part you need.
It's a thing that seems to be only in the US and Asian markets. Luckily here in Europe we have quite a few standards (ofcourse also a few sizes we stept off that you will only find in very old houses
A big problem for consumers in the US is that every company that is of any size has their own standards. Plumbing, cars, software . . . they are all different and they need to be different so no one gets sued for "look & feel" or patent infringement. That the US has few standards is expensive for the consumers.
BINGO! There re 1,000s of 'similar' parts where there should only be few dozen. DANG lawyers and their crazy lawsuits@!@@peteinwisconsin2496
So, in the future if I ever replace a water heater, the first thing I'll do is get the anode rod broken free then retighten it by hand instead of using an impact wrench or welding machine so it can be removed and checked without all the hassle. Wish I would have known this earlier. Thanks for posting this.
I love this channel, it never fails to teach us something new.
I just used a impact wrench and got it out in about 2 minutes. Rod had been in use about 6 years and really needed replacement.
Collapsible anode rod. Brilliant! Good, clear demo.
I never even knew those rods were in there. Very informative and I'll look at replacing mine. Thx
When we learned about anode rods by watching one of the "This Old House" programs, ours was stuck. After we finally got it out, and put the new one in, Dad would loosen and tighten 1/4 turn twice a year.
You dad was a guy who truly understood that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
James Funk i just sprayed some liquid wrench on my anode rod. It filled up the 1/4 inch shallow plastic cup it sits in
I was just thinking that myself. Whenever I get a new heater I will fill it up and crack the bolt loose immediately when new to prevent issues with corrosion making it harder. And then once in a while loosen and tighten.
@@@davidjames666 I thought about using PB blaster or liquid wrench to help loosen the anode, but I don't want the chemicals getting into my hot water. Granted, it wouldn't be much, but I used a long pipe on a breaker bar instead.
I don't drink the hot water in my house so PB blaster is fine.
That sausage link rod is genius!!! Image once it got to the market how many people were like I thought of that ten years ago😂😂 great video.
Actually, I’m really surprised manufacturers had not introduced this option many years ago given this has always been an issue. Kinda odd it took so long.
Excellent demonstration, lesson.
I had to replace an anode rod today, and it was a very hard to use a ratchet. So got the big guns out, Impact wrench did the job easy.
Thanks man, this clip was very useful to me in addressing a problem with our hot water. My old anode looked a bit like the one in the cutaway, so hopefully the new one will bring some life back to the old heater. cheers!
Thanks. I watch the show often. I replaced the anode rod recently.
I installed our Rheem Hot Water Heater in December of 2016. I just changed the anode rod today (12/22/2020). I usually work alone on our household projects and found the anode rod a bear to get loosened from its threads. I have a 22" breaker bar but that just moved the whole tank.
I pulled out my trusty Kobalt impact wrench and set it on half pressure. Job Done@
BTW, the rod had missing material at the top and bottom and crud in between. Thanks for the tips on when to change it.
Thank you so much. did this this morning. Very healpful. Tank is 6 1/2 years old. No zinc left!
Fascinating. Add extra years to your water heater, so easily. Kind of.
I just replaced my house's original 18 year old water heater last weekend. Never changed the anode rod on it, so after I was finished I decided to remove the old one out of the empty tank just to check it out. Definitely wouldn't budge with an empty tank. So I put my 1/2" pneumatic impact on it, which got it off easily. There was actually a piece still on the cable, but the opening at the top was all gunked up, so that section fell off down to the bottom as I pulled the cable out. And that's all I got out of it, was the bare cable on the top fitting.
wow.
Awesome video . Exactly what I was looking for on the subject! 😁👍🏽
Just noticed Home Depot has a lot of anodes that are around 12 to 18 inches or so. Can we use those or do we need the full length ones for a 55 gallon water heater?
This was the most informative and useful video that I have EVER watched on CZcams. Thank you ...
I had some calcium on my anode rod (not nearly as bad as this video) and just used some sandpaper to remove it. Good as new now. Not sure why they don't mention an impact wrench to remove. Definitely the way to go especially the first time since the factory setting is so tight. Also, removing the flue exhaust chimney usually allows you to have enough room to get the new anode rod in on the gas water heaters
I know it's been 2 years, but since you have done this before, let me ask you. Is there a certain torque or torque spec for the new rod to go in? Because I noticed that he said just to snug it up. With plumbers tape, of course.
@@Ethelemund - just snug it down tight. It would be hard to over do it. If you start moving the tank you have done it tight enough. Just make sure to dry the area with a paper towel after tightening and then monitor it after pressurizing it again. Look for any leaks. With plumbers Teflon and tape you should be good to go.
@@condor5635 Thank you very much!
Overall anode rods are cheap. Imo, the best plan is to have a replacement in hand and if anything looks suspect just replace it. Cheap insurance.
I admire the consistent expertise of This Old House staff. But PLEASE!!! use a breaker bar when you have a tough bolt head instead of risking damage to a fine ratchet tool. That's what they're for.
The video gave me the information I was looking for. I need to leave the water in the tank and use some persuasion. : )
Thank You so much!
Thank you This Old House!!!!
Watch that Teflon tape. You need to have an electrically conductive path between the anode and the tank. Four components have to be present: ACME. Anode, Cathode (steel tank), Metallic path (through the threads), Electrolyte (water). So use electrically conductive sealant.
Teflon tape in plumbing is designed to fill in the gaps between the threads between the metal so water doesn't have a path. Once you crank this thing down, the outer part of the threads on the rod is going to be in contact with the threads on the WH. Therefore a conductive path.
@@cantcurecancer this is true
@@cantcurecancer As an electrician I can only tell you our code forbids the use of any non conductive material be used to make threads air tight. Not only are we trying to make a grounding path with the conduit in hazardous locations we need to keep things like gasoline vapors out of our conduits.
Hill Shepherd
1 second ago
how long should it be?? different lengths ??? " full height of tank ??? anyone?????
@@hillshepherd9444 can you not use the old one as reference? It might also be stated in the boiler manual.
Thanks for this great video, I got a lot out of it. I'm installing a new gas water heater and thanks to this video I decided to remove the new anode rod and apply the teflon tape now in order to make its eventual removal easier. Also, by removing and measuring the new rod I'll have it's duplicate leaning next to the water heater ready for future installation.
I just love folks that believe they know more than the people that designed the equipment. Why would anyone put an insulating layer (Teflon) between two pieces of metal that need to be in FULL CONTACT with each other???
Especially on a new unit... Proper use of the "proper (conductive) pipe dope" is what is warranted here. Learn to use it people!
Can't find it? - Any good plumbing supply will have it.
@@richardnewcomb9471 Interesting. I've never heard of anyone using it as an electrically non-conductive insulating layer in plumbing. This Rheem CZcams video instructs you to use the tape. czcams.com/video/wzecqGyCllU/video.html I've never thought that the cheap version Teflon tape was so powerful that it would not let the threads cut through it and come into contact, but that it acts more as a lubricant and possibly help seal by allowing fittings to be tightened sufficiently.
Just did mine. $30 and no breaker bar. So much for the comments suggesting just replacing my heater. Anode partly degraded and fully coated with 1/16 inch of calcium.
For rods that are fused.
1. Spray penetrating oil and let it set for a day or 2.
2. Use a impact wrench to unscrew the rod.
3. Use no tools to install the new rod, this will help prevent cross threading the rod when installing.
4. Use a non powered torque wrench to tighten the new rod. Do not use a impact wrench.
Don't like the idea of penetrating oil getting into my water supply...
use vinegar
I never changed mine in 30 years. I tried but was scared of cracking the “glass” lining. I even have corrosive water (hydrogen Sulfide gas). The bottom was rusted out but it never ever leaked. Changed a lot of heating elements. I knew to change it when I got a shock from the washing machine, that meant that the element was eaten through and the inner heating wire was exposed to the water.
Perfect - totally cleaR. THANKS!
Very helpful - thank you!
I wish I can love this video instead of like! Great job fellas.
Brilliant video. Great help.
All the details I need. Thanks !
Nice nice nice👍👍👍👏👏👏 thank you so much for this video
thanks for the video. very instructive. What torque number should the new rod be tightened up to when installed?
I agree with other contributor here. Never put extra leverage on a ratchet. You risk stripping the gears. Breaker bars only.
Most are lifetime warranty, so if you break it, it gets replaced free. Craftsman, Husky, Kolbolt, Snap On.
Excellent communicator!
With limited clearance for removal, would it be ok to use a reciprocating saw with Diablo blade for cutting or would I have to use hacksaw by hand?
Excellent video. Thank you.
Very helpful. Thank you 👍
I love you videos..I have a question do you need to drain an indirect water heater to replace the aquastat and if so do you have a video to show how
The nunchuck rod is pretty neat.
This video is so good. Thanks!
i just finished yanking myself off
Any thoughts on using an impact wrench on the anode rode to persuade?
Great video guys.
Thank you so much for showing us how to change out an anode rod. We've been struggling with sulfur smell/taste for the past two years. We've added more inline filters and still smell the sulfur, especially after being away for a few days. Now the new one is installed (we needed a longer bar than in the video clip, and a ratchet strap around the outside of the tank to hold it still) and we're waiting to see what happens in the weeks to come. :-)
An Anode will Not remove the sulphur smell.
It will in some cases, but not always. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't witness it at my parents house. We tried everything else, but the least mentioned cause is the anode. I was trying not to use the bathroom when I went to visit because I couldn't stand the smell of the water when washing my hands and I really thought it was the well, but after changing the anode the smell was gone. There are many articles on the subject available with a online search. The key to diagnosing it is that only the hot water stinks. Most people don't even notice that water from the cold side doesn't have that odor.
N
Just like beer. Get it cold enough you can drink any brand. Let it warm to room temp and blech.
There is a new anode on the market made of titanium and is powered by a 3 watt brick like your phone charger.
The power from the brick makes the ions in the water attrack itself to the titanium rod instead of the steel tank.
The titanium does not sacrifice itself in the process.
This keeps your water from smelling like sulfur.
Excellent video.
So how often should we change the rod ? I bought a plastic super insulated heater but I'm sure the inside has metal inside. And I have a Cheatah BAH too. Comes in handy for cars!
good to know this, thanks...
So I just installed a new tank. In a hard water home. How do you know what material the anode rod is? I read hard water should have an aluminum rod and soft magnesium. Should I change it right away if it's the wrong anode metal?
Hi! A contractor recommended a 32" rod for my 75 gallons tank, is it too short?
Had know idea about this maintenance. Thanks!!!!
To get it loose, Impact wrench fast +efficient Long Braekerbars or anything like this you run the danger of breaking a connection pipe especialy older ones.
Chris
Impact wrench, does not work on my water heater. Nor does anything else. What next?
Dennis Hinckley What are the specs on your impact driver? I’m currently pricing air drivers that have at least 500 lbs per ft torque. Most battery-powered impact drivers are 150 or below. Honestly, I’m not sure if 500 is adequate or if people have run into other issues using an impact drivers, which is how I stumbled upon this video.
D Man - any good pneumatic impact will remove this rod. I used my IR with the 1 1/16 deep impact socket and it worked great on the factory connection. When tightening you don't need to go nuts with it like the factory. Just use teflon pipe sealant compound. Dennis - Not sure what condition exists where someone can't use an impact. If you can't then get out the big breaker bar and pipe. Issue is it will turn the whole tank so keep it as filled as possible.
Unfortunately for the homeowner, some water heaters have the anode attached to the hot water outlet pipe. If you are able to replace the anode, something to consider is how hard your water is. Very hard water may require an Al anode instead of the usual Mg. Your local plumbing supplier should know. Lots of people replace their water heaters prophylactically by age. Good for the plumber but not necessarily for the owner. We had one that lasted 37 years. The anode was never replaced and the water was on the hard side. My current model is 32 yo.
VERY HELPFUL VIDEO THE BEST ON THIS ISSUE AND IVE CHECKOUT OVER 10 LIKE VIDEOS THIS 1 IS THE BEST BY FAR THANK YOU
Read the question from Michael Mah Photography (5 month ago)
It helps if you heat the plug to about 320-350 degrees to release the thread sealant on the threads.
Prior to removal, of course!
In that vein... You should use the "proper (conductive) pipe dope" upon reinstallation of the anode.
Just a note of caution... All that hammering tends to shatter the glass lining. NOT GOOD!!!
Also, the impact drivers' hammering torque will most likely shear the soft alloy off of the underside of the plug on cheaper anodes that do not have a wire core welded to the plug.
thanks this helpful.
Well water system with softener couldn't figure out why my hot water (only) had terrible odor, after research replaced anode cost less than $20 at Menards, worked like a champ!
Super easy. Suggest using on impact drill if you have one. Broke the bolt seal easy.
The hex top of my anode rod is not exposed. My conventional electric tank is encased in that same foam as shown on this demo tank, the newer one. I have some of those clear plastic caps on top of the tank, but when removed all that is exposed is the foam. Do I take a good guess and dig the foam out of that opening until I stumble onto the anode hex top? Or is there a way to tell which access is the correct one? My tank just went out of warranty and the sediment flush removed very little loose debris.
Thats awesome!
Thank you. I had no idea about a sacrificial anode. Our electric water heater had no separate hex head on top. I LQQKED at the instructions and it said there is a combination hot water line/anode on the top. I am not touching that with a DYI! My Plumber is getting a call.
Thanks for your great show. With the your help & another video I replaced my anode rod (Mag) today with no problems.
god, just the word "anode" makes my genitals tingle. I think if i keep watching these anode rod videos i might end up ejaculating in my panties.
Great advice. Never thought about it. I am surprised that ratchet didn't break. Breaker bar may be better.
Very good video guys
Great video!
25 year old heater. Works fine. Do I have any chance of getting the old rod loose? Is the torque going to crack the glass lined tank?
Yes, these rods are put in very tight. I used 2 foot breaker bar and couldn't budge it, but I did not have a buddy holding the tank. I then used an electric impact gun, and it broke loose. It's hard but it's not impossible. I think the key is to do this repair / replacement fairly early in the water heater's life. I did it at three years and every three years there after. I think that cuts down on the amount of rust and mineral accumulation that can make removal quite difficult.
The toughest part of the job is finding the 1 1/16 inch deep socket. It took A LOT of yard sales before I found one of those.
Yeah, the rule is every 2-3 years. After that it can be fused to the tank. I think they mentioned that somewhere in this full episode.
I had a 1 1/16th impact socket but it was too thick. I ended up using a 27mm chrome socket.
my rod is in a recess which is about 3 inch deep. any suggestion for a tool to pull it (I have a socket but how would I pull the rod if the recess is tight?)
I gave up on the idea since I have no space to drop in a new anode, until I say the "link" type flexible anode in your. Thank you!
Like links of sawseege, haha gotta love the guini plumbers. I kid cuz I love!
is possible to have one without the anode rod. mine was installed 2yrs back but can’t locate the anode rod nut at the top. However I removed the capped plug & the insulation but didn’t see the anode rode nut.
awesome
Brilliant
How worried should I be about a leak at the top of the rod? Do I need to get hat thing super tight like it was at the beginning of the video?
Was looking for this video cant believe it was released almost 10 years ago.
I did not take anode rod for long time. I am thinking of flushing water through for 3 fill-refill cycle in tank to get all built up calcium on bottom. Also, think of putting vinegar and 3-fill-refill cycle. What do you think?
Will the h2o be dirty coming out of the faucets when the tank looks like that inside? How do you know it looks like that? Will that cause the tank to stop heating? Asking for a friend. Ty
I'm removing my anode rod, and the instructions say to use a 1 - 1/16 inch socket. The socket has some play and does not seem to be the right size. This anode rod came with the Rheem water heater. I tried a 26mm, but that is too small, and a 27mm is a bit larger. Is there a specific size that will fit on the anode rod nut?
When I replaced my anode rod, I had to cut 6" off so it would clear the ceiling. For the price difference in the collapsible vs the straight rod, I'd say loosing the 6" was worth it.
You would think threaded sections of anode rod would work as well...except if you drop a section of course.
Few folks remove these rods. Almost unheard of I bet that less than 1 out of 200 to 1/500 every get removed. With a 260 FtLb electric impact wrench the last three I tried never came off. Even a 4 ft cheater bar and several Hoss Cartwights hugging the WH and the things never come off. The one I did see be removed was with a 3/4 inch air impact wrench of about 1000 Ft lbs. One that was 1/2 inch and 400 Ft Lbs did not work. The removed rod has some goop, sealant or locktite to make the job even harder. Taking off a OPD Propane valve is childs play compared to an Anode rod, they might as well be welded on. All that impact of torque with a mile long cheater bar can ruins the piplng too thus few folks replace these.
What do you think it does to the gas lining on the thin steel tank? I think it twists and warps the steel where the threaded fitting is welded on just enough that the glass lining chips or cracks. The result is that, yes you put a new rod in, but damaged the glass lining protecting the steel from rusting through. I would bet it does more harm than good on a tank that's been in service for 4 or more years.
3beltwesty I
Yes, those rods are so so tight to remove. is there a way to pour some lubricating oil or something similar?
I ran into the same problem when I tried to inspect the anode rod in my heater about 3-4 years ago. It flat out wouldn’t budge, and this was with a 3/4 drive breaker bar and cheater pipe on the end! It wouldn’t hurt them to put a touch of anti seize on those threads!
Bart Youngblood Can they break (while trying to remove them) something in the water heater and become way more expensive task?
I have two questions: Is all the anode rod the same model? like if I go to home depot, just pick any anode rod and it will fit? And what material is better? Mg Al, or Zinc?
excellent !!!!!!!!!
Nice gary
used my air 3/4 in impact to loosen the rod, then Teflon tape and pumper caulking and new one in water heater snug!!!
My Milwaukee high torque impact wrench easily removes anode rods.
i think mine would have to but it broke the socket adaptor immidiatly :(
DUH
my pneumatic 1/2" impact gets it out easily also.
My Harbor Freight impact wrench does the same job at a fraction of the cost of Milwaukee tools.
I used an electric 220 lb ft impact wrench to loosen the anode rod with great easy.
Ultimate dad channel🔥
How long do the rods usually last? Or just check them every year?
I'm going out to buy a hot water tank this weekend. Since my tank must stand in a closet with low ceiling, I'd prefer a sacrificial anode that can bend. Now I have to investigate, in advance of purchase. I must protect my precious copper fresh water piping, so laboriously installed in 1991!
There are "Flexible" anode rods. Like a chain of sausage links.
How old was that water heater and how much anode rod in terms of circumference inside the heater space is too much?
My 1979 Kenmore keeps on giving.
I have a 20 year old Apollo 5010 water heater. I know I need to have both the anode rod and dip tube replaced. I can see the dip tube is on the cold water supply pipe inside the water heater. However, there is no anode rod top bolt at the atop of the water heater. Does that mean I have to replace the water heater?
Now I'm left wondering if maybe the inside of the tank is similarly covered in calcium as well, thus protecting the steel tank from corrosion also?
Now I know how to prolong the life of my water heater and where to hide my nunchucks.
😂