I just bought a Savage WSM mounted on a Boyd Laminated stock, & I was sorely disappointed in the accuracy. I shoot at objects at 100yds+, the size of a bowling pin or smaller. Even at 100 yds it was piss poor. I saw your vid on bedding the stock & said wth, it cain't hurt it any more than it already is. I AM A BELIEVER NOW FOR SURE. I probably didn't do as good a job as you did, but I was extremely pleased at how much better it grouped. the grouping went from 2 inches to 1/4 inch @ 100 yds. It went from 3 to 4 inches to 1 inch @ 200 yds . THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR INTEL ON THIS SUBJECT.
i have never bought into that story line. This B-MAG & my A17 both seem to shoot a lot better after they had a lot of rounds through them, when they were new, they might of had 50 or so rounds a day sitting on a range, then home for a deep cleaning. Only after I started shooting them on the dog towns did high volume shooting happen. Only then did I come to the conclusion they don't settle in until AFTER 50 or more shots. They just like being dirty, and you have to like that in a dog rifle.
Thanks to this video, I've finally tamed my B mag. Followed your instructions, You were spot on. Previously, My B mag, standard barrel, boyds thumbhole, was verticle stacking 3" groups at 100yds. Bedded the gun, Went to the range today. shooting 1" groups at a 100. Thanks a ton for sharing!
Followed your advice; new stock and glass bedded. Awesome shooter! Killed so many squirrels, it almost got boring (almost!). Ditto for my buddy. Thanks for the clear instructions.
Thanks a bunch for the excellent video. I just performed this bedding process on my rifle. I hadn't shot it prior to bedding so I can't speak to how much it improved its accuracy, but it shoots really regular groups at about 3/4 MOA all day now. The 25 grain is just a bit more consistent than the 20 grain but they both shoot well. At 100 yards it is my most accurate firearm. I'm really impressed with it, being the rimfire that it is.
Just finished the bedding job on my B-mag.Used Brownells Steel-Bed. I also had to repeat it to get full coverage in the barrel rings or groves. Will look at glass at the Shot Show in LV. Enjoy your channel and humor very much. Thanks.
Did the same exact thing thanks to you Cavedweller got a new stock from boyd's and some JB and dropped the barreled action in there and now it shoots like it was intended to shoot👍👍👍
How did it shoot in the factory stock??? You know--Before & after??? You need to get out on a field of little targets at long range to really get into this new round.
the factory stock was terrible. Mine was warped and pressed against the barrel. it shot 1" at 50 yards. I guess that is why savage is selling a "target" model with the boyds stock.
this might be true. it is just a hair to the left even on the boys stock. But it is real bad on the factory stock. all I know is it is shooting good now. I bought it for night hunting coyotes under 200 yards. Can only use rimfire at night in michigan. I love the 17wsm. Can't beat the power and accuracy to price ratio.
Cavedweller I finally got around to bedding my fluted bull Bmag into my boyds at one stock. Thank you for the great how to. What a difference, the rifle actually has a little more recoil now. Before I had a ghetto bed job with 3m double sided tape that actually worked well for the time being. 2 years. Ive also noticed that federals offering, american eagle 20s seem to be the most consistent ammo out of the 4. I had bad mirage in the scope yesterday so no good data on paper, the ground squirrels on the other hand would say its pretty damn accurate.
i have a sshb version and it has two allen head screws on bottom of action that tighten up on the barrel tennon to keep barrel from turning thus changing headspace, also the lug or stud on bottom that has the c clip on it also tightens up on barrel tennon. the spacer i made lightly press fits over the barrel threads and tennon and goses up against the first of thoses goofy rings machined in the barrel over the chamber area. i pressed it on chucked it up in the lathe and faced the spacer/washer until i had a good tight fit and proper head space which was loose from factory. i also ran through the idea of silver soldering the barrel into the action but choose this method instead.
Would recommend using the jb quick weld syringe, less mess and clean up and easier to keep it 50/50 as both parts are pushed out at the same time! Can't wait to bed my 77/17 and 10/17!!
Thanks for the video, I will do this. On a side note, I have the same stock on mine. I had to remove the extra little "safety" trigger on mine, I took my trigger down to 14oz and I lapped the barrel. Mine is shooting a inch and under all day long at 100 with the 20gr ammo. The biggest weakness I have found so far is the ammo itself. I wish its quality control was a little better. I see the same problems with all the brands of ammo. Thanks for the info though, I am no longer scared to glass this gun thanks to you. Im sure it will help its performance.
+67cgc Tricked out the trigger & hand lapped the barrel and she will shoot sub 1 MOA. Most would be thrilled at that.And you think you have a ammo issue?? Glass bed that S.O.B. You don't have an ammo problem, you have a great shooting rifle with a less than fantastic trigger. When you get it done, do let us all know how she shoots. THANKS.
I just beaded my Bmag thats been in the safe for about as long as they hit the market lol put it in a Pro Varmint with JB Steel stick its crazy how high up off the stock those barrel grooves sit, I had to apply two layers of the stuff to get it up to height about half of the stick, thanks for the explanation!
@@cavedweller1959 will do, the ammo I have left for it are about as old as the rifle, Ill have to rewatch your old vs new ammo again to see what to expect lol
@@cavedweller1959 I took the 17wsm out today and was not very impressed like I thought I would be, the better groups ( with a "barrel tuner" ) had 1-2 flyers and the others (no barrel tuner) were just sporadic over an inch, also I noticed some very strange tiny holes on the target, are they breaking up during flight?? I can PM some pics if it interests you to look at. After putting a shaft coller on the end of the muzzle "barrel tuner" thats when it tightened up better still had fliers. All in all I think the ammo I have left may benefit from sorting them by weight I have about 25rounds of Winchester left I think I will sort them and try that next
+Labradorslobber I would have to shoot it first, Just to know the amount of improvement. Of course you could always switch stocks at the range. Thanks for Watching.
I just ordered the Boyds Varmint pro , in coyote laminate. It should be here next week and I plan to follow this video. It shot well in the cheapo plastic stock but I just dont like the cheap stock. I know that they make them in the laminated stocks already but I got a good deal on a bull barrel stainless model. I couldnt pass it up.
With epoxy, you can still achieve a chemical bond after as long as 24 hours so roughing it up isn't absolutely necessary. One thing to watch out for is "blushing" that is a waxy substance that can form on the surface of quick setting epoxy. Acetone or denatured alcohol with remove it.
sorry i figured you had seen a few if you were asking. i had 20 or so out of 300 before i did this. so far havent had none out of 150. the headspace was really off on mine. the more i shot it the worse it got, the barrel was unscrewing itself with everyshot.
I used plato, the 10 ounce package of jb kwik weld from auto parts store and kiwi sneaker protection spray #2 a 4.25 ounce can of spray from Wal-Mart as my release agent and it worked GREAT. I used all the kwik weld between the cavities of the factory stock, the lugs of the barrel...i was skeptical about the whole project it came out great.
This is my first glass bedding job. I bought the Boyd’s stock w thumb hole for Savage B. I’d didn’t expect to have to do so much trimming to get receiver to fit down into stock. I looked at another video on glass bedding and. Learned I should first do glass bedding jog and THEN do sanding in fore end Is free floating.
.hey nice videos there is a recall on the savage bmag bolt handle call them up they will send you a new one to the door. I may move the safety to firing position can't wait to see how she shoots.
hey cavedweller 1959 I would like to see you do a review and test the Marlin 17 XT with the bull barrel I love seeing what you do with your rifles please keep it coming
the barrel to action fit on mine was really loose. the two set screws are useless. i fixed mine with a washer i made on lathe that allows for the action to screw tight to shoulder on barrel. the reason the bedding works is cause it somewhat locks action to barrel. u could silver solder it together if no lathe is available. also the crown on mine was bad so i recrowned and threaded it.
The barrel to action fit on this one is ROCK SOLID. As for the set screws, Mine has none--you completely lost me on that one. If I understand you correctly, you made a shim & installed it between the action & the barrel? Did that change the head spacing, have you shot it yet, any split casings or anything weird happen? Please do let us all know.
In one of your videos you mention the barrels tend to touch the stocks on the left, what is causing this? Just picked up a Boyds stock and will now attempt to follow your lead on bedding. Thanks for you vids, I have found them helpful.
Do you happen to remember what you torqued the action screws too on this bmag boyds stock? The savage owners manual says 40 inch pounds for both plastic and laminate wood stocks. Did that and it cracked a little by the front action screw.
Ever since I picked up a fat wrench, 50 inch lbs. seems to be my go to setting. This Boyd's stock has a steel bushing for the front action bolt, I can't comprehend what could have cracked.
After purchasing a bmag, I've noticed you might be incorrect about the lugs. The front lug is already recessed into the stock free floating the barrel. Those are not the lugs on the barrel that actually strengthen anything
cavedweller1959 interesting. I've got the 96951 model. Take a look, it's got the heavy fluted barrel. It is in a Boyd's stock, and has steel inserts on both front and back bolts that make contact together. They must have changed then significantly.
The 17 WSM produces no significant recoil-- SO--I recollect the R&D folks at Savage figured something like a recoil lug was really not needed. The front steel insert, for lack of a better name, has two jobs , 1st-- hold the stock & action together. 2nd--mount the gizmo that the mag will snap into so it stays put. Recoil never entered the thought process, being cheap & easy to manufactured was the driving force.
i put that same stock on my bmag and all i did was bolt it on. no mold, no jb weld nothing at all and i can drive nails with it at 100 yards all day long. same thing with my cousin and his. maybe its the ammo youre using all i shoot is the winchester hv 20 gr
same stock and same gun here. my safty sits so low in the stock that I have to use my thumbnail just to get it to move and when I glass beded it like on here the safty wouldn't even work.
Thank you cavedweller1959 for this info. I enjoy your videos a lot. Just curious.....do you leave that ball of clay up under the barrel just while the bedding is curing, or permanently? I'm new to all this so I am learning from you guys.
I have an early production bmag with the factory junk stock and standard barrel. Should I waste my time trying to improve it or buy a heavy barrel gun and proceed from there?
Love your videos CD I have a lot of ground squirrels in the orchard where I live there's no one around 4 for my I'm in a canyon but I need to get rid of these ground squirrels
@@cavedweller1959 where I live my shots on the ground squirrels are a hundred to 200 yards I thought about 17 W SM 17 Hornet or 22 magnum your opinion would be very helpful thank you again for your videos
Thanks for the info! I have wanted to get the .17WSM. But everyone tells me they are junk. I think if I go your route I would be happy. I did not see your colorful stock on Boyds website. What was the model and color of your stock? Thanks for the wonderful info!
Does your groups enlarge after your barrel gets hot or did the bedding take care of that as well? I still haven’t bedded mine because I shoot good groups with the classic Boyd’s stock but when it gets hot things open up a bit but I’ve shot dime size groups at 100 yds with a medium hot barrel I clean mine after every other time I shoot or every time I shoot more then 15-20 rounds through it please comment back I love bmags!!
Bed it. Give that first inch or so of the barrel some support. I quit cleaning mine so often, it really doesn't shoot it's best until 50-75 rounds have gone through it. I have gone well over 300 between cleanings and could have gone a lot more.
Mr. Dweller. I'm literally about to bed my b.mag target. Is the any reason you didn't tighten the bolts down ? You just leave it sitting there . I hope you read this soon !
For no other reason than you need be extra careful to not things glued together, like the bolts into the holes or what not. I have always found it easier to let the epoxy go every where and clean the holes out after, therefore having full contact where I want it. Their are always exceptions & the B-MAG is probably one, You don't want to glue up the front lug due to the gizmo the mag clip holds on to. Just press down on the ACTION, not the barrel, you'll be fine.
cavedweller1959 thanks . I filled around the base of the circlip with clay . Like you I had to build it up twice . I put plenty in the second time and it's now setting . I did your trick with the ball off clay under the barrel , but your boyds aftermarket stock is slightly different to my boyds target that comes with this b mag model . The cut out at the bottom is longer and comes closer to the grooves on the barrel . So I built up a wall of clay to stop it slipping away . Wish me luck and thanks for your video . I wouldn't have attempted this without your help . I will let you know how it shoots
Thank you, Thank you for the no-nonsense video. JB Weld comes to the rescue! 5:02 you say "one shot"? I see "case lube", from Hornady. that's some stuff for reloading cartridges? I'm going to do this to a Mossberg Chuckster I just bought. What a beautiful Rifle yours is!
Cavedweller thanks for the video just got 17 wsm in an lament thumb hole stock. My question is when you bed the stock do you just press it in by hand and let it cure? no screws, clamps or tape? Thanks again!
Every job is a little different, ALWAYS think of the end game, if there is no epoxy around the bolts, I will use them. Rifles that will have epoxy all around the bolts, I prefer to fill all holes with putty, tape the barrel to center in the channel, or as in the video, use more putty to support the front wile the epoxy cures. Sometimes, instead of the bolts, I use surgical tubing as a rubber band to hold things tight. If you don't use the bolts, make sure the fit is good so when your done ,the bolts will find the holes. ALWAYS think of the end game. This is the worst bedding video I have ever done, J-B is for holes in the bottom of your boat, not your soon to be favorite shooter.
Will doing this help at all with the original stock ? Cash is tight at the moment would it be worth trying or would I just be wasting time? Savage said to send it back but if I can fix it myself I would rather do that so I can use it ! Great videos love you channel thanks
I may have missed something somwhere but if ur talking about the barrel riding left side of barrel new stock want help had2 plus boyd's and all rode left side of barrel
The epoxy needs to extend back to the forward pillar. Otherwise, you will be supporting the rear of the action and the barrel just forward of the action. When you tighten the forward mounting screw, you will be placing a bending force on the action and the stock ... not a good thing.
+Donald Trimmer On a normal rifle I agree 100% The B-mag is not normal. You watched me seat the action into the stock by just pressing it down by hand until the "pillar" on the barrel that the front action bolt threads into was in contact with the stock, when the epoxy sets up any and all movement is controlled with no stress anywhere. I did it this way because of the plastic gismo the holds the mag in. I have some videos shooting this rig in less than great weather conditions, and I can tell you it shoots really good. More on that this spring. Thanks For Watching.
cavedweller1959 agreed. I got mind last week with the same stock but factory fitted . I can see where the action and curclip have made a mark in the wood. As long as it's push home before the apoxy sets it should be ok . Mine has two grub screws to hold the barrel in the action . (Ref an older message on here) It shot 1 MOA out the box and I'm still gonna bed it . Had to run a die down the thread for the moderator before I could fit my moderator . The threat hasn't been cut deep enough
Is there a reason you use JB Weld? Can you use any 2-part Epoxy as long as it's isn't too fast setting? Also, I watched another video similar to this and they used electrical tape around the barrel instead of clay. Would that be better because you would know the barrel was centered in the channel? Or would it matter, since it should be free floating anyway?
+Carl No Channel I would think any slow set epoxy will work, I used JB because you can get it almost everywhere. On my other bedding videos I also use electrical tape for centering purposes
what scope are you using on your BMag? Thanks for the tutorial on accurizing the affordable Savage. I looked at the Ruger in 17WSM but the model that I looked at had such a rough action as though sand had been poured into it. Maybe the exception.
I purchased the 17 wsm target edition. I watched your video and glass bedded my riffle in the same spots like you did. my question is what should I torque the action to the stock? I want to make sure I secure the barrel properly.. And does it matter if the glass bedding is just over an inch past the cut out of the barrel for accuracy? I did manage to build the jb weld bedding up to the cutouts of the barrel. But the bedding reached only 2 of the cutouts is that ok or should I put more jb weld in there to grab the 3rd cutout?
Mine is torqued to 50 inch pounds. If you only have 2 grooves into glass, you only have about 1/2 inch of the barrel supported. I normally like the first full inch bedded, but what the hell, take it out and shoot it, if it shoots the way you want so be it. No need to fix it if it's not broken.
The A17 shoots everything except the CCI A17 ammo more than accurate enough for dog shooting with a slight preference for the Hornady 17 gr. V-MAX. Ditto for the B-MAG. When my current supply of WSM ammo runs low, I think I will replace with Winchester 25 gr. only. It shoots very well out of this rifle, seems to hit a little harder and I will only be dealing with holdover for one round.
cavedweller1959 I have used both the 17gr Hornady Vmax & the 20gr Xtp out of my Ruger 77/17 HMR for woodchucks out to 150 yrds no problem but I have noticed the 17gr stuff leaves no margin for error when shooting woodchucks.. With the 20gr Xtp it's lights out end of story.. Even though both are very accurate out of my gun the heavier bullets seem to make a difference in my 17HMR... I also have the Ruger 77/17WSM and shoot both 20gr & 25gr.. I like you will be switching to the heavier 25gr as soon as my 20gr supply is gone.. and again both bullets very accurate out of my gun I don't need the speed of the 20gr stuff.. The 25gr bullets seem to do a better job in the varmit department.. why are you switching to heavier bullets by the way.. ?
cavedweller1959 I'm going to do the same with my 17wsm ammo & switch to the heavier 25gr bullets.. Don't really need the speed & I think them 25's hit harder.. I'd like to see Hornady come out with a 25gr Xtp in 17wsm that would be awesome..
Hey Cavedweller!, I’m new to your channel, but I’ve really been enjoying your videos. I’m really interested in picking up a B-Mag and putting a custom Boyd’s stock on it. The only concern I have is the quality of the other parts of the rifle. I’m concerned that if Savage puts their name on such a garbage stock that won’t shoot groups, then are the other parts of similar quality?.. how do you find the Action/barrel/magazine after spending some time with it? Would you do it all again with this rifle ? I appreciate your time ! Keep up the good shooting !
I guess I probably would. But If there was not an after market stock available, and also the after market bolt handle, the rifle and I would have parted ways a long time ago. I've said somewhere before what will kill the 17WSM is the price of the ammo. 16-17 bucks a box is 32-34 cents a round, pure BS. Think about it, only one manufacture of an affordable rifle, three of ammo, with only 4 choices. after 4 or 5 years on the market no one else is jumping into the game?? I believe the long term of the WSM is not very long term. And I do hope I'm wrong on that.
These are avaliable in good stocks .. so far Ive seen 4 or 5 stock options.. You dont have to buy the cheap stock one. Thats like buying a car with tires that dont grip and complaining you had to change them when the whole time the car was avaliable with better tires..so a company gives options and eveyone assumes the cheapest one is their best option.. Do some research, you are on the internet for Gods sake. Use it.
TheMitchbassman They do offer a few options, however in a heavy stainless they only offer 2.. A cheap plastic stock and a nice Boyd’s thumb hole right handed stock. I’m a lefty, so that basically leaves me with 1 option. It’s also not unreasonable at all to question the quality of the other parts of the rifle knowing that Savage chose to put such a garbage plastic stock on these, a stock that has had issues holding groups since they came out. So knowing all of this my question to Cavedweller wasn’t out of line at all, and I’m someone who knows what I want and researches the hell out of it. So the next time you want to be an internet tough guy when you don’t have a clue who you’re talking to or what you’re talking about.. give it a second thought... Have some respect for people who care about quality and are willing to ask the questions to people with experience with a certain rifle . Have a nice day... idiot
Its avaliable in the thumbhole, the prairie light, and the varmint pro...laminated stocks on the factory rifles, and the plastic one. Never saw any problems on these rifles, they seem to be good quality, and the cheap stock dos'nt seem to carry over to the other parts of the rifle. As a lefty, get the cheap one $279. get the Boyds left hand stock,$137 plus color option and $11 shipping, and you are under the $450 to $500 as the ones in the laminated stocks from Savage, which are Boyds stocks anyway.. I have 4 of these . Oh and get the bull barrel version. I have a couple of the light barrel ones and they are ok.. but not as good as the heavy barrel ones. 1and a half to 2 inch groups on the light barrel type and under1/2 inch on the heavy. And Mike Rehner my original reply was NOT directed at you. So....
So to address the last part of your comment . " Being an internet tough guy" and " not having a clue who Im talking to". I was making a general observation about comments Ive read about these rifles. So maybe take your own advice and KNOW who you are talking to since nothing I said was directed at you. Talk about lack of respect. I have as much experience with the B mag as anyone in the world. I own 4 of them . And just finished bedding the Boyds stock in a stainless bull barrel model. I read my post, it follows Cavedwellers last post, and mentions NOTHING to suggest that it was a reply to Mike Rehner. Im far from an IDIOT, but Id say someone who cant even follow a comment section IS.
Hey CD. Just followed your video to bed my new BMAG, which had the issue with fliers. It's still in the vice so looking forward to shooting it tomorrow. QUESTION: Have you done anything with the trigger? It is now the next thing for me to tackle to get the best out of this rifle.
I have not looked into a after market trigger for a few years, don't know if there is a replacement or not but I would sure like to see one. Let us know what the bedding did for your accuracy.
Hey CD. Bedding job worked a treat thanks. Shot several groups under 1MOA...the last one being .7". They weren't all like this if course but what makes me happy about this is that it was done with my NV scope, which is hard to use in the daytime, and with the less than ideal trigger. So, yep the bedding job did the trick! 👍. I don't believe there is an aftermarket trigger however I understand you can replace the spring with the one out of the centrefire Accutrigger and they have a target weight one @1.5lbs. I can't get them in Australia so a have a couple coming from the States. Let you know how it goes.
@@andrewgroat5055 Sweet, Don't know if I'll get the B-Mag out this year or not. The mind control China Flu scamdemic has $17 a box ammo going for $22-25 when you find it. Have 4or 5 boxes, have to see what the early season pup shooting looks like.
Any merit in using clay in front and behind where you want the JB weld to be to keep it from running? Asking since my Boyds stock just shipped a couple days ago for my B.Mag. Thanks for the good content!
I've used clay for that purpose on other guns with other epoxy's with good results, so I recon it will work on this job. Side note, I recently saw where Savage released the B-Mag in 17 WSM.
CaveCavedweller I recently purchased a Boyd's at one I'm having a problem with the safety not wanting to slide back all the way to the safe position after torquing it to 15 inch lbs I've shaved a little with the dremel in spots but havent had any luck I was wondering if you had any insight as to what's going on
What is the name of the color of the stock of the gun you are showing? I can't seem to find that particular color available and was wondering more specifically because I might be searching the wrong name. Thanks!
+Papiculo I have only tried to bed one flimsy plastic stock, It had so much flex the bedding material would just crack loose during use. You need to start with a ridged platform for the accuracy that I like to see from my rifles. Just look at the better made varmint and/or target rifles, no flimsy stuff there . All are wood or high quality synthetics.
+cavedweller1959 Roger that. thanks for the info. I'm a wood stock kinda guy but all they make now is mostly synthetic unless it's a higher end rifle. so I can see your point.
The action to barrel fit is so sloppy on these rifles machine a Crush washer to tighten up in the barrel shoulder to the action face. Mine went from 2-3 in to around 3/4 consistently. That and a bedding job under the first two inches of barrel.
+mmaarrttyyyy I put some Slip 2000 on a screw as a trial with J-B Kwikweld and it seemed to work well the screw released from the epoxy with ease. Gonna try a screw driver next before i use it for real on a rifle but think it'll be good too.
I would try plumber's epoxy. You can buy it at Lowes. It comes in stick form, two parts, one on the outer edge and the other in the center. Break the size piece you need roll the two together and they harden. I have not used it for this application so I cannot recommend it from experience. It does work well for plumbing applications.
You need something in the range of silicone glue in viscosity - I been betting a springer air rifle in that stuff for the matter. These glue stick epoxy types are usually to firm to proper form up. You better of then with regular JB weld and some fiberglass dust as thickener.
so I messed up when doing my first bed job on my savage 93r17TR and used black shoe polish as a release agent. needless to say my action is now jb welded into my stock (basically a Boyds pro varmint from the factory) I read that jb weld softens at around 600 degrees, do I really want to heat up my action that much? do I have any options? the gun shoots marginally better but I know it needs more bedding. I just did a small amount under the rear or the action and some where the barrel meets the receiver. CCI TNT's shoot the best consistently. fliers are more prevalent with other ammo. any ideas?
The only thing I've ever heard of is to put it in the deep freeze till it's as cold as it gets. When it's time, get a good hold on the stock and give the barrel a good rap with something like a chunk of 2x4. I've never had to try myself, but i was told this by a very good gunsmith. Good luck.
Sounds scary but theory is sound. The barrel being pinned and prying on it kind of worries me. I may give it a try. Either that and sacrafice the stock and "surgically" remove the barrelled action. Or keep shooting it the way it is. on another note could you do a vid on the prep work you do before you bed? I know its fairly straight forward, taping off around the areas being bedded etc but I would like to have the nice clean look where you see the bedding on the sides of the action.
+Matt Luszczak Just need to fallow my channel, the videos are there, I don't recall having a .22 LR that ever needed bedding, but it is done. Thanks For Watching.
Bedding this action into this stock improved accuracy 10 fold, And it seems to improve the more i shoot it. Everything i ever heard about fouling ruining accuracy in the .17s I now think is B.S. This one doesn't get with it until 50 - 60 rounds from a clean barrel. My A17 is the same way. Thanks for Watching.
cavedweller1959 thank you Sir. I been tossing up getting a Target Bmag or a Savage BTSV 93 17hmr and shoot the a17 ammo. I have a pre accutrigger 93 17hmr with the varmint barrel that I really like.
If you already have an HMR, I would go with the WSM in ether the factory thumb hole or a standard style after market laminate stock. Only a couple bucks more per box of ammo but the difference in performance is unreal.
ok.i did this same gun same stock.it DID NOT WORK FOR ME.what happened was it lifted the front of the gun up to high to where the safty did not work and I didn't even use as much as you did.you could only see 2 band indents into the jb weld.i ended up having to remove the jb to get my safty to work.even with the jb removed my safty sits LOW in the stock compaired to your photo so it might be the way the stock was built and not the bedding problem.i really don't want to take a dremel to the finish of a new stock to access my safty.i wish it would have worked because im still getting flyers with 3 types of ammo.i actually had better groups with the junk plastic stock.
Without seeing what you have, It's hard at best to know just what you have going on. NOT being a smart ass, But the bedding process did not lift the front of the barrel/action up. The epoxy cured just as it was left to do so. Don't worry to much, your ship hasn't sunk. Again, without seeing your work it's hard to say, But I would just use your dremel and remove just enough epoxy so the action sets on the wood with no bedding contact, say about 1/8 inch or so. Now figure out the issue with the safety, & rebed. Remember to think twice be fore removing stock material.
above photo is how low my safty sits without the jb weld in it .with the jb weld in where the bands in the barrel sit the safty would not budge even without the screws in it.i even took the dremel and cleaned out the opening slightly where the safty is.i slowly removed the jb weld again until the safty would work and that was all the way back down to the bare wood
luckily I have a thumb nail like a woman so I can get the safty to even work.not happy with the boyds but cant send it back now that I put a dremel to it. I had better groups with the cheap plastic stock.might have to cut my loss and sell this thing.
Wait a minute! You bought or had maid a whole new barrel/receiver? Where? From who? What did it cost? How much did the stock cost? Where did you get it? We thought you were going to put a new stock on the original Savage Winchester 17 WSM? I have that rifle so this doesn’t help? What’s going on here? JWC
chrisfly777300ER I did the same thing your doing, but I did not properly bed the reciever to the stock, all I did was fit it snug and tighten it down, and I made sure that I could slide a dollar bill all the way down the barrel between it and the stock so it stays free floating, and I can tell you that mine shoots great. I can hold a baseball size pattern @ 300yds with the american eagle 20g ammo. My rifle likes that ammo best.
cavedweller1959 I’m wondering if there are any down sides to bedding also wondering if bedding it lifted your barrel higher because if you noticed the Boyd’s has two notches in front of the action that I believe are the only point of contact if you don’t bed it what do you think about sanding those off before bedding so that there is only one point of contact? I had some other inquiries that don’t seem to come to mind right at the moment but I will surely think of them sooner or later
@@normanlewis9769 With a action from one manufacturer and a stock from another, there could be differences in the fit between yours and mine. Before bedding, the only contact with mine was at the rear action bolt and the black metal part held in place by a snap ring that the mag catch engages at the front action bolt area. If you have more contact than that, remove as little as possible and glass it up as shown.
So basically do not buy a bmag unless you want to fix a new gun. What about the Savage .17 wms? Really not too many choices for that ammo. I don't see a Browning T-Bolt version yet.
I think your reading the situation pretty well. As for myself, I really believe if some other rifles do not show up on the market that are well made and shoot straight, and sell for less than $600.00, the .17 WSM round will slowly fad away.
Again.. these are avalable in several differant stocks.. the thumbhole stock in this video is also avalable if you want that you can buy it with it allready on. The 17 wsm will fade away not because its a bad round , or is expensive. it will be because of people feeding the net with bad info. These rifles shoot fine. They cock on closing and that is wierd to some people so they badmouth it for that. And yes the plastic stock is cheap ... But there are a bunch of stock options.
Cavedweller1959 thank u so much I absolutely love your videos very informational Would u mind chatting back an fourth on email I’m gonna try bedding the whole factory stock if I have some questions could we chat on email or phone ?
Ordered a New stock from Boyds a few years ago for my Bmag. Payed for a finished stock, what I got was a rough raw piece of fire wood. NOT Laminated, NOT even near finished. When I contacted them about it they refused to solve the problem. I'll never buy their stuff, and I have since then refused to even buy a rifle that uses their stocks. MDT in Vancouver gets my money, Boyds can eat shit.
Boyd's people can be jerks. I bought a stock and it arrived broken. They replaced it, but with one that is seriously banged up. It is considered, by them, "Natural Defects in the wood." What a crock. No more Boyd's for me either.
I just bought a Savage WSM mounted on a Boyd Laminated stock, & I was sorely disappointed in the accuracy. I shoot at objects at 100yds+, the size of a bowling pin or smaller. Even at 100 yds it was piss poor. I saw your vid on bedding the stock & said wth, it cain't hurt it any more than it already is. I AM A BELIEVER NOW FOR SURE. I probably didn't do as good a job as you did, but I was extremely pleased at how much better it grouped. the grouping went from 2 inches to 1/4 inch @ 100 yds. It went from 3 to 4 inches to 1 inch @ 200 yds . THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR INTEL ON THIS SUBJECT.
Awesome, Now just find yourself a field of little varmints. Thanks for the feed back.
What's your take on "shootin in" the barrel.
i have never bought into that story line. This B-MAG & my A17 both seem to shoot a lot better after they had a lot of rounds through them, when they were new, they might of had 50 or so rounds a day sitting on a range, then home for a deep cleaning. Only after I started shooting them on the dog towns did high volume shooting happen. Only then did I come to the conclusion they don't settle in until AFTER 50 or more shots. They just like being dirty, and you have to like that in a dog rifle.
The glass bedding made a huge difference, no more fliers. Thanks for posting all these great videos.
Whole lot more fun when they shoot where your aiming. Great to hear from you & Thanks for Watching.
Thanks to this video, I've finally tamed my B mag. Followed your instructions, You were spot on. Previously, My B mag, standard barrel, boyds thumbhole, was verticle stacking 3" groups at 100yds. Bedded the gun, Went to the range today. shooting 1" groups at a 100. Thanks a ton for sharing!
+shane sherwood Love to hear it, Thanks of the input.
Followed your advice; new stock and glass bedded. Awesome shooter! Killed so many squirrels, it almost got boring (almost!). Ditto for my buddy. Thanks for the clear instructions.
Glad to hear it. The 17 WSM is an awesome round once it starts hitting where it's aimed.
Thanks a bunch for the excellent video. I just performed this bedding process on my rifle. I hadn't shot it prior to bedding so I can't speak to how much it improved its accuracy, but it shoots really regular groups at about 3/4 MOA all day now. The 25 grain is just a bit more consistent than the 20 grain but they both shoot well. At 100 yards it is my most accurate firearm. I'm really impressed with it, being the rimfire that it is.
I have a Savage BMAG 17 wsm, Heavy Barrel, Thumb Hole. This rifle shoots accurately easily out to 260 yards..1 of my favorite Rifles!
Just finished the bedding job on my B-mag.Used Brownells Steel-Bed. I also had to repeat it to get full coverage in the barrel rings or groves. Will look at glass at the Shot Show in LV. Enjoy your channel and humor very much. Thanks.
The Shot Show , man would I love to do that.
Just picked up a B-Mag. Bedding it this week. Enjoying your other Vids. Thanks much.
Did the same exact thing thanks to you Cavedweller got a new stock from boyd's and some JB and dropped the barreled action in there and now it shoots like it was intended to shoot👍👍👍
Glad to hear it, Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the info! I just upgraded to a boyds stock and did the JB weld bedding on my Bmag. Shooting 1" at 150 yards with 20gn American Eagle.
How did it shoot in the factory stock??? You know--Before & after??? You need to get out on a field of little targets at long range to really get into this new round.
the factory stock was terrible. Mine was warped and pressed against the barrel. it shot 1" at 50 yards. I guess that is why savage is selling a "target" model with the boyds stock.
Eyeball down the length of the plastic stock. Bet your stock is straight. Bet your barrel is not true to the action.
this might be true. it is just a hair to the left even on the boys stock. But it is real bad on the factory stock. all I know is it is shooting good now. I bought it for night hunting coyotes under 200 yards. Can only use rimfire at night in michigan. I love the 17wsm. Can't beat the power and accuracy to price ratio.
JB Expoxy is good stuff! I recently used it to repair a large metal crucifix 2 hours before a funeral in New Orleans 🙏
I bedded mine with some elmers glue, match sticks and an old TV Guide, June 20-1978. Shot great.
Cavedweller I finally got around to bedding my fluted bull Bmag into my boyds at one stock. Thank you for the great how to. What a difference, the rifle actually has a little more recoil now. Before I had a ghetto bed job with 3m double sided tape that actually worked well for the time being. 2 years. Ive also noticed that federals offering, american eagle 20s seem to be the most consistent ammo out of the 4. I had bad mirage in the scope yesterday so no good data on paper, the ground squirrels on the other hand would say its pretty damn accurate.
Yeah mine also shoots well with the 20 grain Americans and even better with 25 grain wins
i have a sshb version and it has two allen head screws on bottom of action that tighten up on the barrel tennon to keep barrel from turning thus changing headspace, also the lug or stud on bottom that has the c clip on it also tightens up on barrel tennon. the spacer i made lightly press fits over the barrel threads and tennon and goses up against the first of thoses goofy rings machined in the barrel over the chamber area. i pressed it on chucked it up in the lathe and faced the spacer/washer until i had a good tight fit and proper head space which was loose from factory. i also ran through the idea of silver soldering the barrel into the action but choose this method instead.
Would recommend using the jb quick weld syringe, less mess and clean up and easier to keep it 50/50 as both parts are pushed out at the same time! Can't wait to bed my 77/17 and 10/17!!
I chop up some fiberglass cloth and mix with the epoxy. Cures the runny problem.
Thanks for the video, I will do this. On a side note, I have the same stock on mine. I had to remove the extra little "safety" trigger on mine, I took my trigger down to 14oz and I lapped the barrel. Mine is shooting a inch and under all day long at 100 with the 20gr ammo. The biggest weakness I have found so far is the ammo itself. I wish its quality control was a little better. I see the same problems with all the brands of ammo. Thanks for the info though, I am no longer scared to glass this gun thanks to you. Im sure it will help its performance.
+67cgc Tricked out the trigger & hand lapped the barrel and she will shoot sub 1 MOA. Most would be thrilled at that.And you think you have a ammo issue?? Glass bed that S.O.B. You don't have an ammo problem, you have a great shooting rifle with a less than fantastic trigger. When you get it done, do let us all know how she shoots. THANKS.
I just beaded my Bmag thats been in the safe for about as long as they hit the market lol put it in a Pro Varmint with JB Steel stick its crazy how high up off the stock those barrel grooves sit, I had to apply two layers of the stuff to get it up to height about half of the stick, thanks for the explanation!
Let us know how it shoots when you pull it apart.
@@cavedweller1959 will do, the ammo I have left for it are about as old as the rifle, Ill have to rewatch your old vs new ammo again to see what to expect lol
@@cavedweller1959 I took the 17wsm out today and was not very impressed like I thought I would be, the better groups ( with a "barrel tuner" ) had 1-2 flyers and the others (no barrel tuner) were just sporadic over an inch, also I noticed some very strange tiny holes on the target, are they breaking up during flight?? I can PM some pics if it interests you to look at. After putting a shaft coller on the end of the muzzle "barrel tuner" thats when it tightened up better still had fliers. All in all I think the ammo I have left may benefit from sorting them by weight I have about 25rounds of Winchester left I think I will sort them and try that next
Thank-you Sir for this video. I watched you other video on bedding gonna watch a few more time then give it a shot.
Love the vids of the bmag I recently bedded my bmag with your method. Keep them coming.
+Ryan Moore Let us know how it shoots, before & after.
+cavedweller1959 1" some 1/2" groups at 100yrd with the 20gr stuff still wana try the 25gr thanks for the vids make more of the bmag
Thanks so much. Ordered a b mag with the regular barrel and a Boyd's stock. Going to bed it before I shoot it.
+Labradorslobber I would have to shoot it first, Just to know the amount of improvement. Of course you could always switch stocks at the range. Thanks for Watching.
+cavedweller1959 good point. I'll bed it and bring both stocks to the range.
I just ordered the Boyds Varmint pro , in coyote laminate. It should be here next week and I plan to follow this video. It shot well in the cheapo plastic stock but I just dont like the cheap stock. I know that they make them in the laminated stocks already but I got a good deal on a bull barrel stainless model. I couldnt pass it up.
A little too much of that is better than a little not enough, Words of Wisdom !!
With epoxy, you can still achieve a chemical bond after as long as 24 hours so roughing it up isn't absolutely necessary. One thing to watch out for is "blushing" that is a waxy substance that can form on the surface of quick setting epoxy. Acetone or denatured alcohol with remove it.
sorry i figured you had seen a few if you were asking. i had 20 or so out of 300 before i did this. so far havent had none out of 150. the headspace was really off on mine. the more i shot it the worse it got, the barrel was unscrewing itself with everyshot.
Love that stock !!!
I can't wait to see how accurate it is.
i really enjoy your videos,your very concise and very good with your videos,thanks so much for sharing!! I am subscribing to you!!!
+Larry Gene Pate Thanks, Glad you liked them.
I used plato, the 10 ounce package of jb kwik weld from auto parts store and kiwi sneaker protection spray #2 a 4.25 ounce can of spray from Wal-Mart as my release agent and it worked GREAT. I used all the kwik weld between the cavities of the factory stock, the lugs of the barrel...i was skeptical about the whole project it came out great.
Time to get your ass out on a varmint town.
How did it shoot?
Less than 1 inch at 100 yards with 25 grain. First time shootin it, and I was cold too... I bet itll be tighter when im comfortable
Awesome, glad you hot it dialed in, I pretty much did what you stared, drastic improvement with the 20 grain, can't find the 25 grain round
Must be your area they are at walmart and duhnams here in indiana
Awesome video
Great education for me
Great video, thanks for sharing.
This is my first glass bedding job. I bought the Boyd’s stock w thumb hole for Savage B. I’d didn’t expect to have to do so much trimming to get receiver to fit down into stock. I looked at another video on glass bedding and. Learned I should first do glass bedding jog and THEN do sanding in fore end
Is free floating.
.hey nice videos there is a recall on the savage bmag bolt handle call them up they will send you a new one to the door. I may move the safety to firing position can't wait to see how she shoots.
+YakMan89 E-Mailed savage through their web site a week or so back, Should have a package at the door soon.
hey cavedweller 1959 I would like to see you do a review and test the Marlin 17 XT with the bull barrel I love seeing what you do with your rifles please keep it coming
I do not have one but I'll ask around too see if i borrow one, Spring time is a long ways away.
cavedweller1959 ok I think it would be cool cuz you can buy those marlins for like 250 and so post be a very accurate little gun
the barrel to action fit on mine was really loose. the two set screws are useless. i fixed mine with a washer i made on lathe that allows for the action to screw tight to shoulder on barrel. the reason the bedding works is cause it somewhat locks action to barrel. u could silver solder it together if no lathe is available. also the crown on mine was bad so i recrowned and threaded it.
The barrel to action fit on this one is ROCK SOLID. As for the set screws, Mine has none--you completely lost me on that one. If I understand you correctly, you made a shim & installed it between the action & the barrel? Did that change the head spacing, have you shot it yet, any split casings or anything weird happen? Please do let us all know.
In one of your videos you mention the barrels tend to touch the stocks on the left, what is causing this? Just picked up a Boyds stock and will now attempt to follow your lead on bedding. Thanks for you vids, I have found them helpful.
Mix a little talc in the jb weld to thicken it to the viscosity you want
Do you happen to remember what you torqued the action screws too on this bmag boyds stock? The savage owners manual says 40 inch pounds for both plastic and laminate wood stocks. Did that and it cracked a little by the front action screw.
Ever since I picked up a fat wrench, 50 inch lbs. seems to be my go to setting. This Boyd's stock has a steel bushing for the front action bolt, I can't comprehend what could have cracked.
really?? my boyds stock does not have a steel bushing for the front action bolt. that is strange.
After purchasing a bmag, I've noticed you might be incorrect about the lugs. The front lug is already recessed into the stock free floating the barrel. Those are not the lugs on the barrel that actually strengthen anything
Unless Savage has changed the build of the B-Mag since Sept. 2015 when I shot this video, There is NO front recoil lug on this rifle.
cavedweller1959 interesting. I've got the 96951 model. Take a look, it's got the heavy fluted barrel. It is in a Boyd's stock, and has steel inserts on both front and back bolts that make contact together. They must have changed then significantly.
cavedweller1959 also I forgot to mention, not sure if you upgraded your back cap on your bolt. There is a free upgrade from savage on a recall.
The 17 WSM produces no significant recoil-- SO--I recollect the R&D folks at Savage figured something like a recoil lug was really not needed. The front steel insert, for lack of a better name, has two jobs , 1st-- hold the stock & action together. 2nd--mount the gizmo that the mag will snap into so it stays put. Recoil never entered the thought process, being cheap & easy to manufactured was the driving force.
i put that same stock on my bmag and all i did was bolt it on. no mold, no jb weld nothing at all and i can drive nails with it at 100 yards all day long. same thing with my cousin and his. maybe its the ammo youre using all i shoot is the winchester hv 20 gr
same stock and same gun here. my safty sits so low in the stock that I have to use my thumbnail just to get it to move and when I glass beded it like on here the safty wouldn't even work.
Good Video. Thanks you for sharing.
Thank you cavedweller1959 for this info. I enjoy your videos a lot. Just curious.....do you leave that ball of clay up under the barrel just while the bedding is curing, or permanently? I'm new to all this so I am learning from you guys.
It's removed. Once the bedding cures, it needs no help doing it's job.
Got a B Mag 17WSM at cabelas for less than $150.. Put a Boyds thumbhole laminate stock on it.. it shoots sub MOA at 100 yds with no tuning..
Sweet, now if ammo was just readily available.
The hard part... finding ammo and finding it for
Did you bed this stock or was it just a drop in?
Do you screw the action down tight while its drying or do you tape it or neither ? Thnx
I have an early production bmag with the factory junk stock and standard barrel. Should I waste my time trying to improve it or buy a heavy barrel gun and proceed from there?
Love your videos CD I have a lot of ground squirrels in the orchard where I live there's no one around 4 for my I'm in a canyon but I need to get rid of these ground squirrels
Get yourself a good shooter and have some fun.
@@cavedweller1959 where I live my shots on the ground squirrels are a hundred to 200 yards I thought about 17 W SM 17 Hornet or 22 magnum your opinion would be very helpful thank you again for your videos
Oh yeah cave-dweller sir I really appreciate you talking back to me
Thats pretty awesome apperciat you
Thanks for the info! I have wanted to get the .17WSM. But everyone tells me they are junk. I think if I go your route I would be happy. I did not see your colorful stock on Boyds website. What was the model and color of your stock? Thanks for the wonderful info!
Just a thumb hole, red,white and blue with fish scale style checkering.
Does your groups enlarge after your barrel gets hot or did the bedding take care of that as well? I still haven’t bedded mine because I shoot good groups with the classic Boyd’s stock but when it gets hot things open up a bit but I’ve shot dime size groups at 100 yds with a medium hot barrel I clean mine after every other time I shoot or every time I shoot more then 15-20 rounds through it please comment back I love bmags!!
Bed it. Give that first inch or so of the barrel some support. I quit cleaning mine so often, it really doesn't shoot it's best until 50-75 rounds have gone through it. I have gone well over 300 between cleanings and could have gone a lot more.
Mr. Dweller. I'm literally about to bed my b.mag target. Is the any reason you didn't tighten the bolts down ? You just leave it sitting there . I hope you read this soon !
For no other reason than you need be extra careful to not things glued together, like the bolts into the holes or what not. I have always found it easier to let the epoxy go every where and clean the holes out after, therefore having full contact where I want it. Their are always exceptions & the B-MAG is probably one, You don't want to glue up the front lug due to the gizmo the mag clip holds on to. Just press down on the ACTION, not the barrel, you'll be fine.
cavedweller1959 thanks . I filled around the base of the circlip with clay . Like you I had to build it up twice . I put plenty in the second time and it's now setting . I did your trick with the ball off clay under the barrel , but your boyds aftermarket stock is slightly different to my boyds target that comes with this b mag model . The cut out at the bottom is longer and comes closer to the grooves on the barrel . So I built up a wall of clay to stop it slipping away . Wish me luck and thanks for your video . I wouldn't have attempted this without your help . I will let you know how it shoots
Thank you, Thank you for the no-nonsense video. JB Weld comes to the rescue!
5:02 you say "one shot"? I see "case lube", from Hornady. that's some stuff for reloading cartridges?
I'm going to do this to a Mossberg Chuckster I just bought.
What a beautiful Rifle yours is!
Hornady One Shot case lube. Best release agent I've ever used.
Cavedweller thanks for the video just got 17 wsm in an lament thumb hole stock. My question is when you bed the stock do you just press it in by hand and let it cure? no screws, clamps or tape? Thanks again!
Every job is a little different, ALWAYS think of the end game, if there is no epoxy around the bolts, I will use them. Rifles that will have epoxy all around the bolts, I prefer to fill all holes with putty, tape the barrel to center in the channel, or as in the video, use more putty to support the front wile the epoxy cures. Sometimes, instead of the bolts, I use surgical tubing as a rubber band to hold things tight. If you don't use the bolts, make sure the fit is good so when your done ,the bolts will find the holes. ALWAYS think of the end game. This is the worst bedding video I have ever done, J-B is for holes in the bottom of your boat, not your soon to be favorite shooter.
If you install the screws wrap plumbers Teflon tape over the screw so it will release.
Such a light cartridge... thick barrel.. is there really any barrel movement? Just curious why it needs bedded
Will doing this help at all with the original stock ? Cash is tight at the moment would it be worth trying or would I just be wasting time? Savage said to send it back but if I can fix it myself I would rather do that so I can use it ! Great videos love you channel thanks
czcams.com/video/4f6R8PJHpBs/video.html You never can tell.
I may have missed something somwhere but if ur talking about the barrel riding left side of barrel new stock want help had2 plus boyd's and all rode left side of barrel
I bought same gun two days ago and it's the most accurate rifle I've ever fired...
Wish i knew someone with a recently manufactured target B-Mag I could shoot for a day or two.
I'm starting to hear more and more of this.
@@cavedweller1959 I really enjoy it
I bought a bmag target last week gonna bed it this weekend. Thanks for the video how to. I also have a 17 hmr model 93 how do I bed that?
+Russ Jordan 24 Never played with a 17 R93, But the basics are going to be the same.
+cavedweller1959 thanks for getting back to me. I'll let you know how they both turn out. Love your videos very easy to follow and informative!
The epoxy needs to extend back to the forward pillar. Otherwise, you will be supporting the rear of the action and the barrel just forward of the action. When you tighten the forward mounting screw, you will be placing a bending force on the action and the stock ... not a good thing.
+Donald Trimmer On a normal rifle I agree 100% The B-mag is not normal. You watched me seat the action into the stock by just pressing it down by hand until the "pillar" on the barrel that the front action bolt threads into was in contact with the stock, when the epoxy sets up any and all movement is controlled with no stress anywhere. I did it this way because of the plastic gismo the holds the mag in. I have some videos shooting this rig in less than great weather conditions, and I can tell you it shoots really good. More on that this spring. Thanks For Watching.
cavedweller1959 agreed. I got mind last week with the same stock but factory fitted . I can see where the action and curclip have made a mark in the wood. As long as it's push home before the apoxy sets it should be ok .
Mine has two grub screws to hold the barrel in the action . (Ref an older message on here)
It shot 1 MOA out the box and I'm still gonna bed it . Had to run a die down the thread for the moderator before I could fit my moderator . The threat hasn't been cut deep enough
Is there a reason you use JB Weld? Can you use any 2-part Epoxy as long as it's isn't too fast setting? Also, I watched another video similar to this and they used electrical tape around the barrel instead of clay. Would that be better because you would know the barrel was centered in the channel? Or would it matter, since it should be free floating anyway?
+Carl No Channel I would think any slow set epoxy will work, I used JB because you can get it almost everywhere. On my other bedding videos I also use electrical tape for centering purposes
what scope are you using on your BMag? Thanks for the tutorial on accurizing the affordable Savage. I looked at the Ruger in 17WSM but the model that I looked at had such a rough action as though sand had been poured into it. Maybe the exception.
4-16 x 44 Vortex Viper so far. This coming summer it may have something else.
Did you have to bore out the hole in the stock a little bit where the front action screw / pillar goes ? Just got my stock in and having an issue.
That's been 7-8 years ago, I don't recall having any issues with it. BUT, every one can be different.
I purchased the 17 wsm target edition. I watched your video and glass bedded my riffle in the same spots like you did. my question is what should I torque the action to the stock? I want to make sure I secure the barrel properly.. And does it matter if the glass bedding is just over an inch past the cut out of the barrel for accuracy? I did manage to build the jb weld bedding up to the cutouts of the barrel. But the bedding reached only 2 of the cutouts is that ok or should I put more jb weld in there to grab the 3rd cutout?
Mine is torqued to 50 inch pounds. If you only have 2 grooves into glass, you only have about 1/2 inch of the barrel supported. I normally like the first full inch bedded, but what the hell, take it out and shoot it, if it shoots the way you want so be it. No need to fix it if it's not broken.
what grain bullets do you like to use out of the 17Hmr & the 17Wsm
The A17 shoots everything except the CCI A17 ammo more than accurate enough for dog shooting with a slight preference for the Hornady 17 gr. V-MAX. Ditto for the B-MAG. When my current supply of WSM ammo runs low, I think I will replace with Winchester 25 gr. only. It shoots very well out of this rifle, seems to hit a little harder and I will only be dealing with holdover for one round.
cavedweller1959 I have used both the 17gr Hornady Vmax & the 20gr Xtp out of my Ruger 77/17 HMR for woodchucks out to 150 yrds no problem but I have noticed the 17gr stuff leaves no margin for error when shooting woodchucks.. With the 20gr Xtp it's lights out end of story.. Even though both are very accurate out of my gun the heavier bullets seem to make a difference in my 17HMR... I also have the Ruger 77/17WSM and shoot both 20gr & 25gr.. I like you will be switching to the heavier 25gr as soon as my 20gr supply is gone.. and again both bullets very accurate out of my gun I don't need the speed of the 20gr stuff.. The 25gr bullets seem to do a better job in the varmit department.. why are you switching to heavier bullets by the way.. ?
cavedweller1959 I'm going to do the same with my 17wsm ammo & switch to the heavier 25gr bullets.. Don't really need the speed & I think them 25's hit harder.. I'd like to see Hornady come out with a 25gr Xtp in 17wsm that would be awesome..
Hey Cavedweller!, I’m new to your channel, but I’ve really been enjoying your videos. I’m really interested in picking up a B-Mag and putting a custom Boyd’s stock on it. The only concern I have is the quality of the other parts of the rifle. I’m concerned that if Savage puts their name on such a garbage stock that won’t shoot groups, then are the other parts of similar quality?.. how do you find the Action/barrel/magazine after spending some time with it? Would you do it all again with this rifle ? I appreciate your time ! Keep up the good shooting !
I guess I probably would. But If there was not an after market stock available, and also the after market bolt handle, the rifle and I would have parted ways a long time ago. I've said somewhere before what will kill the 17WSM is the price of the ammo. 16-17 bucks a box is 32-34 cents a round, pure BS. Think about it, only one manufacture of an affordable rifle, three of ammo, with only 4 choices. after 4 or 5 years on the market no one else is jumping into the game?? I believe the long term of the WSM is not very long term. And I do hope I'm wrong on that.
These are avaliable in good stocks .. so far Ive seen 4 or 5 stock options.. You dont have to buy the cheap stock one. Thats like buying a car with tires that dont grip and complaining you had to change them when the whole time the car was avaliable with better tires..so a company gives options and eveyone assumes the cheapest one is their best option.. Do some research, you are on the internet for Gods sake. Use it.
TheMitchbassman They do offer a few options, however in a heavy stainless they only offer 2.. A cheap plastic stock and a nice Boyd’s thumb hole right handed stock. I’m a lefty, so that basically leaves me with 1 option. It’s also not unreasonable at all to question the quality of the other parts of the rifle knowing that Savage chose to put such a garbage plastic stock on these, a stock that has had issues holding groups since they came out. So knowing all of this my question to Cavedweller wasn’t out of line at all, and I’m someone who knows what I want and researches the hell out of it. So the next time you want to be an internet tough guy when you don’t have a clue who you’re talking to or what you’re talking about.. give it a second thought... Have some respect for people who care about quality and are willing to ask the questions to people with experience with a certain rifle .
Have a nice day... idiot
Its avaliable in the thumbhole, the prairie light, and the varmint pro...laminated stocks on the factory rifles, and the plastic one. Never saw any problems on these rifles, they seem to be good quality, and the cheap stock dos'nt seem to carry over to the other parts of the rifle. As a lefty, get the cheap one $279. get the Boyds left hand stock,$137 plus color option and $11 shipping, and you are under the $450 to $500 as the ones in the laminated stocks from Savage, which are Boyds stocks anyway.. I have 4 of these . Oh and get the bull barrel version. I have a couple of the light barrel ones and they are ok.. but not as good as the heavy barrel ones. 1and a half to 2 inch groups on the light barrel type and under1/2 inch on the heavy. And Mike Rehner my original reply was NOT directed at you. So....
So to address the last part of your comment . " Being an internet tough guy" and " not having a clue who Im talking to". I was making a general observation about comments Ive read about these rifles. So maybe take your own advice and KNOW who you are talking to since nothing I said was directed at you. Talk about lack of respect. I have as much experience with the B mag as anyone in the world. I own 4 of them . And just finished bedding the Boyds stock in a stainless bull barrel model. I read my post, it follows Cavedwellers last post, and mentions NOTHING to suggest that it was a reply to Mike Rehner. Im far from an IDIOT, but Id say someone who cant even follow a comment section IS.
Gunna be doing this to my hmr
Hey CD. Just followed your video to bed my new BMAG, which had the issue with fliers. It's still in the vice so looking forward to shooting it tomorrow. QUESTION: Have you done anything with the trigger? It is now the next thing for me to tackle to get the best out of this rifle.
I have not looked into a after market trigger for a few years, don't know if there is a replacement or not but I would sure like to see one. Let us know what the bedding did for your accuracy.
Hey CD. Bedding job worked a treat thanks. Shot several groups under 1MOA...the last one being .7". They weren't all like this if course but what makes me happy about this is that it was done with my NV scope, which is hard to use in the daytime, and with the less than ideal trigger. So, yep the bedding job did the trick! 👍. I don't believe there is an aftermarket trigger however I understand you can replace the spring with the one out of the centrefire Accutrigger and they have a target weight one @1.5lbs. I can't get them in Australia so a have a couple coming from the States. Let you know how it goes.
@@andrewgroat5055 Sweet, Don't know if I'll get the B-Mag out this year or not. The mind control China Flu scamdemic has $17 a box ammo going for $22-25 when you find it. Have 4or 5 boxes, have to see what the early season pup shooting looks like.
Any merit in using clay in front and behind where you want the JB weld to be to keep it from running? Asking since my Boyds stock just shipped a couple days ago for my B.Mag. Thanks for the good content!
I've used clay for that purpose on other guns with other epoxy's with good results, so I recon it will work on this job. Side note, I recently saw where Savage released the B-Mag in 17 WSM.
Let the epoxy partly set up before putting it in the bed.
CaveCavedweller I recently purchased a Boyd's at one I'm having a problem with the safety not wanting to slide back all the way to the safe position after torquing it to 15 inch lbs I've shaved a little with the dremel in spots but havent had any luck I was wondering if you had any insight as to what's going on
Without having a hands on look at it, I would hate to even guess.
U can make a thin clay dam to contain epoxy too
What is the name of the color of the stock of the gun you are showing? I can't seem to find that particular color available and was wondering more specifically because I might be searching the wrong name. Thanks!
It's just red,white & blue. I was just on the web site, looks like they may have trimmed the color selection.
Can you glass bed the factory stock? Or does it come with tight tolerances? And if You can will it help shrink those fliers?
+Papiculo I have only tried to bed one flimsy plastic stock, It had so much flex the bedding material would just crack loose during use. You need to start with a ridged platform for the accuracy that I like to see from my rifles. Just look at the better made varmint and/or target rifles, no flimsy stuff there . All are wood or high quality synthetics.
+cavedweller1959 Roger that. thanks for the info. I'm a wood stock kinda guy but all they make now is mostly synthetic unless it's a higher end rifle. so I can see your point.
The action to barrel fit is so sloppy on these rifles machine a Crush washer to tighten up in the barrel shoulder to the action face. Mine went from 2-3 in to around 3/4 consistently. That and a bedding job under the first two inches of barrel.
How's the accuracy on this after bedding?
Going to bed my b-mag target model but im not having much luck finding the oneshot in my area. Will spray silicone work as a release agent? Thanks
+mmaarrttyyyy No idea, never tried it, Give it 1 or 2 test runs before you use it for real.
+mmaarrttyyyy I put some Slip 2000 on a screw as a trial with J-B Kwikweld and it seemed to work well the screw released from the epoxy with ease. Gonna try a screw driver next before i use it for real on a rifle but think it'll be good too.
I would try plumber's epoxy. You can buy it at Lowes. It comes in stick form, two parts, one on the outer edge and the other in the center. Break the size piece you need roll the two together and they harden. I have not used it for this application so I cannot recommend it from experience. It does work well for plumbing applications.
You need something in the range of silicone glue in viscosity - I been betting a springer air rifle in that stuff for the matter. These glue stick epoxy types are usually to firm to proper form up. You better of then with regular JB weld and some fiberglass dust as thickener.
does the savage axis 223 have the same problem, I would like to think that it doesn't, just bought it last week
Unknown, never played with one so far.
I have an Axis II NP .223 Rem that will pile bullets into the same hole all day long at a hundred yards.
I use 3M part # 08115 works great
Can i ask what you torque the action/stock bolts to please?
50 inch/lbs
Thanks for the prompt reply, Have a wonderful xmas and New Year
Cool 👍
so I messed up when doing my first bed job on my savage 93r17TR and used black shoe polish as a release agent. needless to say my action is now jb welded into my stock (basically a Boyds pro varmint from the factory) I read that jb weld softens at around 600 degrees, do I really want to heat up my action that much? do I have any options? the gun shoots marginally better but I know it needs more bedding. I just did a small amount under the rear or the action and some where the barrel meets the receiver. CCI TNT's shoot the best consistently. fliers are more prevalent with other ammo. any ideas?
The only thing I've ever heard of is to put it in the deep freeze till it's as cold as it gets. When it's time, get a good hold on the stock and give the barrel a good rap with something like a chunk of 2x4. I've never had to try myself, but i was told this by a very good gunsmith. Good luck.
Sounds scary but theory is sound. The barrel being pinned and prying on it kind of worries me. I may give it a try. Either that and sacrafice the stock and "surgically" remove the barrelled action.
Or keep shooting it the way it is.
on another note could you do a vid on the prep work you do before you bed? I know its fairly straight forward, taping off around the areas being bedded etc but I would like to have the nice clean look where you see the bedding on the sides of the action.
have you drive it? how did you get on ?
Buy a new gun and try it again, it's only money(your's) lol
hey results after the bedding job? any better. ever bedded 22lr rifle sir?
+Matt Luszczak Just need to fallow my channel, the videos are there, I don't recall having a .22 LR that ever needed bedding, but it is done. Thanks For Watching.
Thanks
how has the accuracy been since you bedded the lug's? I'm looking at the Bmag Target.
Bedding this action into this stock improved accuracy 10 fold, And it seems to improve the more i shoot it. Everything i ever heard about fouling ruining accuracy in the .17s I now think is B.S. This one doesn't get with it until 50 - 60 rounds from a clean barrel. My A17 is the same way. Thanks for Watching.
cavedweller1959 thank you Sir. I been tossing up getting a Target Bmag or a Savage BTSV 93 17hmr and shoot the a17 ammo. I have a pre accutrigger 93 17hmr with the varmint barrel that I really like.
If you already have an HMR, I would go with the WSM in ether the factory thumb hole or a standard style after market laminate stock. Only a couple bucks more per box of ammo but the difference in performance is unreal.
my main use for it will squirrel hunting in Arkansas. Head shot's is already needed with the HMR so that wouldn't be an issue.
the real question is. where in the world did you get that stock from ? i need one
Boyds Gunstocks.
can you use the wheeler bedrock kit the same way with a boy's stock?
+John Farrish Yes they're both epoxy
Do you just use gun cleaner for a release agent or gun oil
I use Hornady One Shot, it is a case lube for resizing the brass case during reloading.
ok.i did this same gun same stock.it DID NOT WORK FOR ME.what happened was it lifted the front of the gun up to high to where the safty did not work and I didn't even use as much as you did.you could only see 2 band indents into the jb weld.i ended up having to remove the jb to get my safty to work.even with the jb removed my safty sits LOW in the stock compaired to your photo so it might be the way the stock was built and not the bedding problem.i really don't want to take a dremel to the finish of a new stock to access my safty.i wish it would have worked because im still getting flyers with 3 types of ammo.i actually had better groups with the junk plastic stock.
Without seeing what you have, It's hard at best to know just what you have going on. NOT being a smart ass, But the bedding process did not lift the front of the barrel/action up. The epoxy cured just as it was left to do so. Don't worry to much, your ship hasn't sunk. Again, without seeing your work it's hard to say, But I would just use your dremel and remove just enough epoxy so the action sets on the wood with no bedding contact, say about 1/8 inch or so. Now figure out the issue with the safety, & rebed. Remember to think twice be fore removing stock material.
above photo is how low my safty sits without the jb weld in it .with the jb weld in where the bands in the barrel sit the safty would not budge even without the screws in it.i even took the dremel and cleaned out the opening slightly where the safty is.i slowly removed the jb weld again until the safty would work and that was all the way back down to the bare wood
I did not over do it with the jb weld either as you can see
luckily I have a thumb nail like a woman so I can get the safty to even work.not happy with the boyds but cant send it back now that I put a dremel to it. I had better groups with the cheap plastic stock.might have to cut my loss and sell this thing.
The links for your pictures, for some reason or another can not be opened on my computer.
Wait a minute! You bought or had maid a whole new barrel/receiver? Where? From who? What did it cost? How much did the stock cost? Where did you get it?
We thought you were going to put a new stock on the original Savage Winchester 17 WSM?
I have that rifle so this doesn’t help? What’s going on here? JWC
Huh? Are you serious???
I've got a sporter barrel B-mag I am going to drop into a Boyd's stock. Anything different on the process with the smaller barrel?
Nothing at all. Thanks for Watching.
cavedweller1959 was you able to get any improvement out of the sporter barrel?
All the sporter rifles were loaners, never had the chance to get them out of the plastic stocks, sorry.
chrisfly777300ER I did the same thing your doing, but I did not properly bed the reciever to the stock, all I did was fit it snug and tighten it down, and I made sure that I could slide a dollar bill all the way down the barrel between it and the stock so it stays free floating, and I can tell you that mine shoots great. I can hold a baseball size pattern @ 300yds with the american eagle 20g ammo. My rifle likes that ammo best.
Grant Deisig is yours a sporter barrel?
What ft lb torque did you tighten it to the new stock?
50 inch/lbs on a fat wrench is my go to setting.
If you loosen that up I think it will shoot better groups mine does anyway about 15-20 lbs just enough to hold it snug
your split cases are more than likely from excessive headspace
I've never seen a split case on a 17WSM, My question was, after you made this spacer for YOUR rifle, Did you have issues with it???
will rem oil work?instead of hornady
Unknown, One Shot works so well for me I have no need to look for others. And it's always on my bench.
Cave dweller I have some in depth questions would you like to help me out with some?
Let's hear them.
cavedweller1959 I’m wondering if there are any down sides to bedding also wondering if bedding it lifted your barrel higher because if you noticed the Boyd’s has two notches in front of the action that I believe are the only point of contact if you don’t bed it what do you think about sanding those off before bedding so that there is only one point of contact? I had some other inquiries that don’t seem to come to mind right at the moment but I will surely think of them sooner or later
cavedweller1959 or does it lift it off of the support beams after bedding the barrel?
@@normanlewis9769 With a action from one manufacturer and a stock from another, there could be differences in the fit between yours and mine. Before bedding, the only contact with mine was at the rear action bolt and the black metal part held in place by a snap ring that the mag catch engages at the front action bolt area. If you have more contact than that, remove as little as possible and glass it up as shown.
So basically do not buy a bmag unless you want to fix a new gun. What about the Savage .17 wms? Really not too many choices for that ammo. I don't see a Browning T-Bolt version yet.
Oops I meant Ruger 77/17 wms
I think your reading the situation pretty well. As for myself, I really believe if some other rifles do not show up on the market that are well made and shoot straight, and sell for less than $600.00, the .17 WSM round will slowly fad away.
Again.. these are avalable in several differant stocks.. the thumbhole stock in this video is also avalable if you want that you can buy it with it allready on. The 17 wsm will fade away not because its a bad round , or is expensive. it will be because of people feeding the net with bad info. These rifles shoot fine. They cock on closing and that is wierd to some people so they badmouth it for that. And yes the plastic stock is cheap ... But there are a bunch of stock options.
I run the BMAG group on fb and half the guys say theirs are tack drivers out if the box
What about the other half??
Mine sure as hell wasnt, lucky if i get 1.5 moa at 100yds. My cz 457 17hmr shoots .325 moa at 100yds out of the box...
I want to take mine out and really test this thing. I've had it for years and barely shot it
Hey cave dweller I have a savage 17 WSM thin barrel in a savage bmag how do u bed a the factory stock if u don’t mind telling me thank you
czcams.com/video/4f6R8PJHpBs/video.html
Good luck, hope this helps.
Cavedweller1959 thank u so much I absolutely love your videos very informational Would u mind chatting back an fourth on email I’m gonna try bedding the whole factory stock if I have some questions could we chat on email or phone ?
I have the same gun but in skinny barrel an can’t get to shoot at all tryed 3 scopes 20 get an 25 gr lightend trigger help please any ideas what to do
maybe buy the Ruger and not have to tinker around
Then I would have a $900.00 rifle that won't shoot straight.
Ordered a New stock from Boyds a few years ago for my Bmag. Payed for a finished stock, what I got was a rough raw piece of fire wood. NOT Laminated, NOT even near finished. When I contacted them about it they refused to solve the problem. I'll never buy their stuff, and I have since then refused to even buy a rifle that uses their stocks. MDT in Vancouver gets my money, Boyds can eat shit.
Boyd's people can be jerks. I bought a stock and it arrived broken. They replaced it, but with one that is seriously banged up. It is considered, by them, "Natural Defects in the wood." What a crock. No more Boyd's for me either.
Yeah, they can eat a shit sandwich... minus the bread!!!
Back yard gun smithing makes me cringe.
Mine shoots straight from the box! What the hell are you talking about!!!
I think your idea of straight might be gayer than San Francisco on a Friday night
Buy Ruger you don't have to do all that