Installing A Creak Free Press Fit Bottom Bracket | Wheels Manufacturing Thread Together PF92 BB86
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 10. 2020
- In this video, we install a Wheels Manufacturing BB86/92 Threadfit Bottom Bracket. This thread fit bottom brackets make for a really reliable setup removing any of the typical concerns of the press-fit BB.
BB86-OUT-AC Bottom Bracket: bit.ly/3doimGb
Wheels MFG Press-7 Bearing Press: bit.ly/36UVVqT
Wheels MFG Bottom Bracket Wrench: bit.ly/36WpisR
Let me know what you think in the comments below & Don't forget to subscribe!!!
- Visit my Website: www.jamesthebikeguy.com
---
- Check it out at my favorite shop: www.Landrys.com
---
- JBG Merch and Support the Channel: teespring.com/stores/jamesthe...
The Gear I use:
-----
Accurate Escali Scale: amzn.to/2qhO6Fm
-----
Canon EOS M6 Camera: amzn.to/37lG0yH
-----
Lavalier Microphone: amzn.to/2HdYiai
-----
Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2qfKdk4
-----
GoPro Hero 8 Black: amzn.to/38mHU3k
-----
Google Pixel 4: amzn.to/2UM9kf6
-----
Lav Mic for Gopro/Phone: amzn.to/3bwiF0d
-----
Cell Phone Gimbal (Bikes Shots): amzn.to/37gU10h
-----
My favorite bike shop: www.landrys.com
Installing A Creak Free Press Fit Bottom Bracket | Wheels Manufacturing Thread Together PF92 BB86
DISCLAIMER: This video description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Sport
Cool video! I wanted to add that i love mine too. It really is a great bottom bracket bearing set up. I am used same bb on on my Colnago Prestige CX. The Dura Ace wasn't creaking but it was starting to bind and has more friction. I used the wrench, homemade press tool and park tool green grease.
Ride on and stay safe ✌
Absolutely excellent! THANK YOU! First time I've replaced a bottom bracket, and this took all my trepidation away. Very clear, easy to follow. And so glad I went with the thread together vs press fit.
Thank you, the best kind of press fit bottom bracket really. Going to fit one on the bike soon 💚
Nice!
It becomes easier to install the BB into the shell, and press it from either side using the proper tool of press fit BB. It's really helpfull video. Thanks so much.
Very thorough video. I'm doing my first bike build, and I was confused about the thread together bottom bracket, but you cleared it up. Wheels Manufacturing seems to be a great choice.
Glad it was helpful!
Building my first bike so this was super helpful.
Great Video, thanks!
Great video, thanks for explaining this. 👍
Happy to help
Super helpful thank you. I have a MOQUAI BB, BB386, for Shimano spindles (24mm), works the same way. The long part goes on the right (drive side, DS), the short part goes on the NDS. I used a similar tool to press the DS cup, then a 3d printed part i found on thingiverse to screw in & press in the NDS cup into the DS cup. It went on super smooth, i've never installed a BB before, and it took me a grand total of 5min. I used lithium grease everywhere because that's what i have and i don't ride in the wet. Frame is velobuild GF002.
Thanks for the excellent video. Just got one of these installed on a bike that I previously had lots of problems with and the BB shell had some grooves from the plastic cups spinning and moving. So far no noise or issues from the wheels BB. I had decided to never buy a frame again with a press fit BB, but this BB seems to solve that issue.
Glad you are having good luck with this BB. They seem to fix the problems with PF and a year into having this BB I still love it.
Yeah when I look for frames I look for non-PF bottom bracket frames.
Excelent video !!
Great video! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Hey thanks glad you liked it.
Good video. I like this idea. Press fit "with" the extra insurance of the thread to hold it in
That BB press tool looks so nice.
So nice. Wheels MFG makes such nice stuff.
Just got one of these for a PF30. I have a steel frame and will use a rubber mallet and a piece of 2x4 to "press" it in.
great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi James. Thanks for posting. This looks like a Bb86? Looking at the wheels mfg website, the instructions show the female threaded cup should go on the drive side and not the non-drive side as demonstrated. Am I seeing this incorrectly? Does it even matter?
I'm surprised this was mentioned, but perhaps putting bb in the freezer overnight will help relieve the pressure while you thread it in.
All things ordered, going for exact same setup in anticipation to get rid of press fit issues on trek fuel ex7 2021
Awesome, enjoy the silence
Thanks, I've bought a "BBB BottomFit BB86/92 BB-029" also threaded but UK made to replace my Shimano plastic press-fit BB that used to creak louder than my grandad's knee. Slightly cheaper than the Wheels Manufacturing version and on sale, fingers crossed it's any good.
How to service it? Could make a video about it? Thanks
On an English threaded bottom bracket frame I had the threads fail and used a Sunlite thread-less repair bottom bracket cartridge. It was nicely made and easy to install. But I like this one in that it has the outboard bearings. Will this BB-86 also work as a thread-less repair unit or does Wheels Manufacturing make something else for those situations?
Hi James great video, would just like to ask if they do have for 30mm spindle? Im currently using Raceface bb92 but it broke on me for 2nd time now so wanted to try this since its aluminum compared to the plastic one. TIA
Me gusta la herramienta que usas pero como remueves los baleros del nuevo BB
Great vid. I've got a giant TRANCE 2018 with a BB 86/92 .. using the wheel Mfg BB angular bearings BB there no need to press fit any side in . Is this normal..?
what would be the equivalent to a sram dub press fit? its on 2021 giant fathom 1 29.
I am wondering whether you can install these in steel frames or will that cause problems where steel and aluminum meet and possibly "weld" together through corrosion.
I bought one myself but I wondered about the "wiggle" room between the threads of the male and female part that allows an offset of about 1-2° if the frame is not perfectly made. And the lower quality ABEC 3 for the price.
Would it be possible to just screw them in? Without the pressing?
No, unfortunately.
I bought the Bb-MTB-4 for my Marin San Quentin 2 with FSA comet cranks and a Megaexo bottom bracket.
What I notice is that when I install the crank spindle it went very tight and I have to use a rubber mallet to pass it through the other side of the BB shell.
It wasn’t a smooth installation as your video or any other video.
I was wondering if I ordered the right part of FSA only goes well with their brand.
My new problem will be to take out that crank spindle. I hope with time they loosen if not I’m doomed.
Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks.
Excellent job on this install! I'm installing the same BB on my frame. WM makes some great products 👍
Right on!
Is there an alternative wrench that can be used?
I had to replace my Wheels Manufacturing BB86/92 ceramic setup after 36965 trouble free miles. The best bottom bracket for a pressed in fit. The only drawback are the special tools needed. Our shop bought the tools (there's also a socket with a 3/8 drive for a torque wrench) as the entire team purchased these and had them installed in our Bianchis. A creaking bottom bracket is the absolute worst!!!!
im reading that the torque on the drive side needs to be 35 to 50nm! is this true? I'm not trying to crack my frame.
What grease did you use?
Sucks that this setup is not available for 30mm spindles. Great video! I'm looking forward to building up the same frameset very soon.
Have fun with your bike
Great video, thanks for the walk through. I have done the same install (BB92 into carbon shell) and I am finding the lack of free-spinning after crank install a bit concerning. I don't want to destroy my BB just by going for a ride. Is this stiffness normal for a new BB thread-together install?
If there is significant drag I am guessing you need to adjust the spacing. Otherwise if it is minor that is likely due to the double sealed bearings.
remove your bearing seals see if that helps, make sure the plastic spacers arent rubbing either, also try playing with the tension screw
Hi How come wheels manufacturing i seen in another video they have the drive side being the non threaded side and yours is the threaded side..? They were doing a carbon road frame.. also on there website they show the non threaded is the drive side. thanks
I have a San Quentin 2 2020 and a Marin X10 2020. I’m very interested on these BBs. Do they make different types? My frame is not press fit. Awesome video man. Learning a lot here.
Yeah, all sorts of BB configurations. Im sure they have one.
can you show how to change the bearings, i always thought you had to replace the whole thing!
Im sure in the future when I need to I will. Its just a standard Enduro 24x37mm bearing. Knock it out with a punch, light grease the cup and press a new one in.
@@Jamesthebikeguy Knocking out the bearing with a punch is effective, but not a great idea. Walking the bearing out with a punch does damage to the walls of the cup and promotes creaking in the future. Much better to press the bearing out or hammer it out straight with a dowel or PVC pipe or something else.
Do the spacers go on the outside of the dust cap if needed? why would i need them?
Yep they go on the outside. Inbetween the cap and the crank. You would need them as some cranks/frames have different tolerances causing you to need to adjust the fit so that you do not have lateral play
Really cool BB, is that wrench required or is it compatible with other bb wrenches? I have a park tool BBT-9 for instance.
Any 16-notch 48.5mm bottom bracket wrench should work. Looks like Park and a few others make it too. Your BBT-9 is a 44mm 16-notch so it does not fit (Thats a Shimano standard) so likely would need another tool
@@Jamesthebikeguy appreciate the info!
Still helping people in 2022!
Hi James, a shame you did not do a video on how you managed to mount the rear shock. I bought the same frame and I'm struggling to find the bolt and bushes needed. Any help would be much appreciated ;-)
Awesome videos though
Go to my website I have the PN and such for the small parts I hsed
Did you get the trifox seatpost and saddle?
No I did not, I have some other ones to go on.
Wheels man has a torque spec for the bb fyi for anyone installing these wanting to do it by the book, they have instructions on their site.
Is that the same tool for shimano external bearings ( the wrench ?)
No, the Shimano tool is different size
Why couldn't you do the hambini soon test?
I am getting a new mtb frame that comes with press fit BB92. After watching your informational video, I am very keen to get this thread together BB. I also intended to use Shimano M7100 crankset which calls for outboard BB. The crankset supplier says I only can use bb89.5/92 only. Yours a 86/92. Do you have any advice over this area?
Check with your local bike shop to be sure
Spin very tight.
Que?
How do you know you actually need that other spacer for fine tuning? I replaced the BB and installed the cranks and it looks like I can move the axle ever so slightly from left to right. So does this mean I need a spacer? Which side do I put it on? Or both? Thanks.
Sounds like you need a spacer, add to the non-drive side
Not sure how much it matters on an MTB, but the WheelsMFG instructions have the press fit female cup being pressed into the drive side, not the non-drive side as you have?
You're right, their instructions do say to do that. I miss that part, although I'm not sure it exactly matters. The point is you need to press in one side first
@@Jamesthebikeguy Doesn't likely matter on your bike. My bike runs GXP so one side has a smaller diam bearing than the other. :D
Questions. Im about to buy, ...why NOT retaining compound? wont' retaining compound absolutely stop any creak... Second, still loving it?
Well firstly, in their instructions WM say using retaining compound will void the warranty. As there is friction between the races being a pressfit AND cups are threaded tightly together retaining compound isn't needed. It may also make removing the cups more difficult in future if you need to.
To reduce the chance of creaking make sure the shell is spotless and use a compatible grease on the threads and the faces.
You can also use the washer/long bolt style generic tool to press the cup in instead of spending $70 to rarely use it.
same with headsets, right?
Ananth Kutuva Yep. I use the same tool for both.
Yes, it is a bit worrying that his press was pressing against the face of the bearing rather than the aluminum cup
@@MrOzzy281 I noticed that too, got good practice at all.
Hi there, I was checking that Wheels Manufacturing Threaded BB86/92, but it is hard to find in my country and generally in Europe.
Do you know any other brand which producing press/fit to threaded BB replacement?
token ninja
Hope also makes one. 😀
former owner of my current gravel bike installed the same BB but in the size for 24mm Shimano GRX cranks. been riding 10 months either the BB is creaking on hills or the Brooks leather saddle is. not sure which it is.
on a new bike build, am using the Wheels Outboard BB for 68mm shell with GRX cranks. curious if slick honey will be safe for installing the BB into this carbon frame? they don't seem to say whether it's safe for carbon unless you just believer carbon paste is the way to go for carbon no matter what. also - i noticed you had cable guides in place already. should i do that prior to BB install if my frame is also internally routed?
Have fun with the new build!
Stand up out of the saddle when you climb a hill, if it still creeks it’s not your saddle creaking. Idk 🤷♂️
ZTTO BB386 Bottom Bracket with double O rings on each side to eliminate any noises from being amplified by the Carbon frame. Those rings on each side are important as they not only seal moisture from getting into the BB shell inside, but also dampen noise.
And to take up the manufacturing tolerance variations of a knock-off part...
Nice, well shot and informative review. However, this seems to be a solution for people who used a wood block and mallet to install their BBs and then wonder how or why they creak. They creak because you didn't put them in properly and they messed up the BB shell and nothing will sit flush again. Use the right tool in a slow methodical fashion and they seat straight every time. I've never....knock on wood...had an issue with PF BB.
I partially agree with you. Yes a ton of people install PF bottom brackets wrong. Unfortunately about as many manufacturers cannot get their factories to make a round hole to tolerance. This fixes both of those conditions!
@@Jamesthebikeguy My new bike's bb drive side bearing already started creaking after 100km in total. A new bb was sent to me under warranty but decided instead to replace the bb by a Hope Pf41 bb. Still a bit worried about the clamping forces on the bb caused by this thread-thru bb. Then again, the bb area on my full-sus bike is the strongest area of the bike. Do you think these compression forces could result in problems in the long run on a carbon frame?
@@ErikBrakkee oh my friend, that Hope BB, i am a die hard Hope fan, but that 3 piece design, you dont imagine the quantity of bearings i`ve changed in that thing. in the end i put again the shimano BB and until now, all ok.
@@c.franca2259 I have had it on my bike now for almost a month so too short to tell. What's really important is to tighten it up to spec and make sure everything is properly greased to keep the grit out. If I run into the same issue as you than I will reconsider of course.
Hi, thanks for a nice video. Some questions:
1. What is the benefit and why would you replace prefectly working (no creeks, misalignment or bearing wear) plastic BB cups with this aluminium design?
2. What is the benefit of pressing in one part, whilst one could just put both parts in and push them in by threading without the press?..
3. Does the manufacturer not give the torque numbers for this threaded connection?
4. No washer between the frame and BB, a concern for frame damage?..
5. How does one replace bearings in this?
Thanks
1. What is the benefit and why would you replace prefectly working (no creeks, misalignment or bearing wear) plastic BB cups with this aluminium design?
No benefit to replace a "perfectly working" bottom bracket. But once your current BB wears out, then you have the ability to install once, and then just replace bearings. Piece of mind that the BB is solid and will not walk out in the future
2. What is the benefit of pressing in one part, whilst one could just put both parts in and push them in by threading without the press?..
That a hughe amount of force that would be applied to fine alloy threads. By pressing in (1) side first you legitimately reduce the load by over half compared to threading both in at once.
3. Does the manufacturer not give the torque numbers for this threaded connection?
PF BBs are interference fit, so no torque specs would not be reliable on a interference fit of any kind.
4. No washer between the frame and BB, a concern for frame damage?..
Washers are for spacing, not frame protection. Some cases you need them depending on the spec of the frame
5. How does one replace bearings in this?
Hammer and a punch, just like a BB30 bottom bracket
How do you take those bearings out?
With a punch
@@Jamesthebikeguy oh man can you do a video and recommend a tool on that because that would be awesome. I want to fix my stuff and in reality you are a good teacher man but you don’t seem like one because you enjoy it too much ha.
Ready use for shimano 24mm axle?
Yes?
I'm building my first bike, would you recommend the Sram or Shimano BB from Wheels MFG and why ?
I mean that all depends on what groupset you have.
Get shimano, better group set in my opinion especially at price point of deore, SLX, and XT. At XTR price SRAM catches up.
You could get the SRAM/30mm version, and if you later decide to go Shimano WM do 24mm shim inserts to accept Shimano cranks which fit perfectly.
just go one piece something like hambini or bbinfinite. that center thread will still not give perfect alignment.
Great video...also at 4:46mm is 48mm not 48 tooth
16 tooth 48mm
I bought a thread together BB92 but I don't have a bearing press. Can I press the non drive side using the drive side thread together screw as a "press"?
You probably could but you might have problems with the other side spinning on you. Which is why it is easier to have one pressed into place and then tighten the other up to it. There are ways.... my non-drive side cup is too big for my press so drilled a hole in some wood for it to pull against. You could make one quite easily or carefully use a mallet
@@MrOzzy281 I figured as much. Thanks.
@@joeytoribio2035 you can buy cheap presses on eBay too
@@MrOzzy281 ya, that's what I did, but now there's no need to spend more on a thread together style BB when I have the tool for a normal PF.
@@joeytoribio2035 true, if my PF didn't nearly destroy my frame in the process of removing I'd do the same but don't want that again
Wheels mfg has a video on installation and they say that the cup with the female threads shouod be pressed into the drive side, not the non drivee
You are correct
@@Jamesthebikeguy so how come you did it the other way around?
Mistake and didn't find out till you and the several before you let me know in the comments.
@@Jamesthebikeguy to be honesy i don't think it would matter much if u think about it
hi will this be an issue to run di2 grx wires? im looking at the same bb86 41mm for frameset. thank you edit: also does threading it together end up scratching the frame?
No problem with di2
@@Jamesthebikeguy the threaded on outside frame get scratched?
What threaded BB would I need for a 2021 Trek Fuel EX 8?
I'd like to put on a BB86/92 Tread Together BB so I can assemble a ISCG05 Adapter to put on a Bashguard, do you think that would work? Is there enough thread and flange? Maybe an extra washer?
I am quite certian that would not function long term.
@@Jamesthebikeguy any suggestions?
You installed it backwards.
non contact seals are the only option, the plastic spacers are bad and create possible drag from contact on the shields/seals. metal spacers are best to ensure contact is only with the inner race part of the bearings. besides that thicker grease can slow down a free spin too but not by much when merely observing. all that said theres no good reason why a crank should not spin freely as the sealed cartridge bb's have done decades ago. i mean they said man went on the moon but we since lost that tech and cant do it today as easily, did we also lose the tech of a free spinning bb or are we all just enjoying the cool-aid while coming out of pocket more than ever
Don't worry, I'll get off your lawn
Great video, well presented. Unfortunately, they don't make one to fit my frame. Going forward, type of BB is a consideration in what bike I buy, and I won't buy a bike with a PF BB again. I hope all the companies go back 100% to threaded.
Wheels Manufacturing instruction manual for this bottom bracket states that you should start at the drive side with the cup that has the female thread and the male thread cup goes to the non-drive side. This video showed the opposite.
Cool
agreed
Yeah, ask your dad what the difference is..... there isn't one. They can't put ''you can decide which way to do it'' in the instructions, technical writers don't do that.
Thought the same, realistically though does it make any difference?
@@bitmadmax doesn't make any difference, why would it? It is like asking will the water bottle be damaged if you hold the top and spin the bottle
sorry but you said go ahead and leave a comment.. When you were putting the drive side in, it didn't seem to meet the frame very square at all and when you finished them cranks wouldn't spin! You can see they were at least a 'little stiff'... why not just be up front?.. I have never watched you before but I assume you make these or have some affiliation? BB looks quality I must say but I wouldn't be happy with that friction personally..
I just re-watched the install part of this video and I am not seeing what you are talking about regarding the BB not installing square. The BB was installed flush against the frame, and the crank spindle slid in w/o the need of a hammer. Those are generally very good indicators that the BB is aligned well enough. The "stiffness" you might be seeing is due to this being a BB designed for a mountain bike. Inside the bottom bracket, it is using an Enduro bearing with a dual Labyrinth seal
. These seals are a little draggy but trade some friction for protection against water and dirt ingress. On a mountain bike this is crucial for longevity. Sure its not going to win a crank spinning contest but who needs to? If you were building a road bike that was never going to see water a totally different bearing setup would be in order. On a mountain bike its a great choice.
@@Jamesthebikeguy when you put the drive side in, it looked like it was closer to the bottom than the top, this isn't a problem with your bb by the way, it would be the fact that few frames are made to a close enough tolerance in the bb area.. however, it would distort an inferior bb. I see what you are saying about the seals but it would annoy me.., the bearings are fully sealed from factory so , I understand you don't want grit in between bearing and crank but I don't feel it needs to be that tight? maybe it is just the video but when you are attempting to spin or turn the crank it is moving the entire bike?.. still looks like a nice product to be fair x
I followed this guide only to find out that he installed the BB incorrectly as per the manufacture instructions. Jeez now I have to reinstall it :(
Reinstall it?
@@Jamesthebikeguy Yeah. The part with female thread should be on the drive side, while the male goes to the non-drive side. I'm not sure if there's a negative effect if you install it the other way around as you did in the vid 😂 but I would be more comfortable to follow the manufacturer instructions so I reinstalled my BB last night :)
@@Poogiezilla I don't understand why it would make any difference, I think technical writers don't like giving people any options when it comes to instruction manuals.
5:22 Greasing the shell you will push excess grease into the bike, which eventually will leak oil. Not exactly environment-friendly. Instead, grease the BB. 5:27 Use anti-seize for the same reason, or better yet, silicon. 7:21 That's no the right tool! You're pressing against the bearing's inner race.
yeah its called a threaded bottom bracket period
🙄
Nope. A threaded BB is different to a press fit thread-together.
While the press tool is fine - it's not necessary.. Because it threads together, they will naturally press in tightly. Every bottom bracket should be this type.
Agreed that all should be this type. I do question the lack of press fit tool since it will limit potential damage in install and ensure it is well seated
ok, good video but I am a little confused, are you installing a Cane Creek product or a Wheels Manufacturing product? you list them both and say nothing about their association. What gives?
Huh? There is nothing about a cane creek part in the video
Token make this years ago
As did WM. I used one back in 2018 too
Pressing-in and turning at the same time? Oooohhhh it's the wost thing you can do. Stupid idea.
This is why I got the Hope Pf41 bottom bracket. There you press in the two cups and drive side bearing, then screw in an inner tube that holds the two cups together. Afterwards install the non-drive side bearing. A much better construction than the wheels mfg bb imo.
First of all you should stay away from carbon and secondly press fit BB should be a deal breaker no matter how good price you get on frame\bike
I simply disagree with you. Almost all of my bikes are press fit, and none of them cause issues. If you install the bottom brackets properly and use quality components PF is actually better than threaded. it's a lot easier to make a robust PF bottom bracket that is also a lined properly then machining a threaded bottom bracket.
@@Jamesthebikeguy keep using then
Carbon is excellent. If you can fly in carbon you can ride with carbon. Pressfit is actually better as long as the frame is well manufactured, which they are.
@@openwheelracing88 grate. I'm happy for you
The issue with Threaded vs Press fit started because the morons at Cannondale were stupid idiots with BB30. Instead of calling for the bearings to be unified together from end to end inside a shell they cut cost and have the bearings just press fit into the frame. Manufacturers then started to make the frames and then since the tolerances were never enforced by Cannondale most if not all frames were not made to proper specs to fit the bearing under pressure. Some frames the bearing just slided right in with no pressure. Also with Carbon making a perfect round hole is not that simple. With a threaded BB shell like Alloy or Steel there is no issue with this as both cup bearings are unified end to end on the same shell. This is why there are metal inserts that you can add to BB30 shells so that you can then press fit standalone bearings into that shell. Wheels Manufacturing, FSA, Hambini, ZTTO or get the Press fit-threaded BB which is basically what Cannondale should of made when they came up with the BB30 standard. PF30 was a better system but still had some issues with size tolerances. BB386 unifies a universal system so that it can use almost any cranks mix mash. So if you do get press fit then get BB386.