The SECRET to Stopping SRAM Chain Drops (RED, FORCE, RIVAL AXS)
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2024
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0:00 chain drop
0:16 has that ever happened to you?
1:08 HAHAHA
1:16 shoutout youtuber
1:44 insure your chain is correct length
2:24 removal of chain
2:59 removal front der
3:14 what we need for this job
4:35 DONT FORGET THIS PIECE
6:09 initial install front der
7:52 removal of tool
8:27 installing chain
10:11 support piece
10:40 adjusting low limit screw
13:05 first shift
13:52 adjusting high limit screw
16:00 explaining SUPPORT BRACE*CRUCIAL*
17:27 RIDE SLIDES PLUG
18:11 installing SUPPORT BRACE*CRUCIAL*
20:30 closing statements
22:22 NO SPACE BETWEEN SUPPORT BRACE - Sport
22:22 time stamp Real Quick, after I installed the support brace on the bike, I noticed the plastic needed to be pushed more against the frame when re installing the wheel, so I just loosened and retighten the bolt on the support.. It just looked connected on film to me on the phone.... But other then that if you have any questions on this process or your own front derailleur stories I would love to hear them
Me again. I have a bad experience with Sram. Since 2 years I have changed, bottom bracket, shift level right and last week front derailler. Not reliable it's at least what I can say
"HAS THAT EVER HAPPENED TO YOU???" 😂 Acting that good can only come from deep personal experience
I use Shimano, so I do not know how that moment feels, but it was hilarious
Lol, I ride Shimano too but I've had that experience a few times before too. So long as you don't panic when that happens and carefully continue to pedal and shift down you'll get the chain remounted. But I do like the idea of an alignment tool and that back of derailleur brace.
With qualified mechanic and proper set up, I never had problem with shimano DI series…
I adjusted mine on my own by following sram recommendations by adjusting the FD and the B gap 😊 its working flawlessly so far😊
Yea once it was set up properly I never dropped a chain. It wasn't as fast as Shimano but it's always felt smoother than Shimano.
@jaspreetsidhu5708 yep.. same. Now I'm wondering if I have that piece on my FD.lol.
Yeah. Same here. Perfect front shifts. Used the jig the front der came with and added the support piece. No issues 1000 miles later.
All good tips - I recommend turning OFF the auto shift on the rear derailleur. I find this really helps with dropped chains as well.
yea makes sense
@@GCPerformance18 The shimano auto shift is worse though - I hate when client's bikes are setup with this as the only option especially on comprised frames like QR that use a Chainstay lenthg and hanger geometery that is out of shimano's spec for framebuilders
great one, now I understand what is that little thing my mechanic put in there behind my FD, now it shifts 100% better than before.
hell yea!!!
I have SRAM and, so long as it’s set up properly, it works fine. It has dropped a couple of times but if I check the limit screw and make the quarter turn, it’s back to great shifting. I do run Shimano on another bike, although mechanical and it does need less adjustments but I have had a bad malfunction with that too which meant I had to be picked up due to a twisted chain. The key is proper adjustment for any group set.
yes this is always the key, it needs to be perfect
Did anybody else found themselves tilling your head to get a better look when GC was doing a close up….lmao 🤪🤣😂
hahahah
Next video: how sram 1X can't hold the damn chain going over a bump. Super aero tho
Ive raced AXS 1x in crits and gravel.....I guess I'm one of those that has never had it happened.
I mean, the only time that's happened to me is when my chain has bent...... so that's a you problem. I race almost exclusively 1x Sram, whether is CX, MTB, road, TT, and any of the groups it doesn't matter. No issues here.
It happens when you have worn NW chainring.
I have an orbeya orca.I fight my front chain ring every time I go for a ride.I just wouldn't check.I have that little support, but it's not even touching the frame.It's almost touching the tire now.I will put my bike back on my bike.Stand and readjust everything like you've showed me.Thank you for this video.I appreciate it
So helpful. Planning to take my derailleur off to do a full cleaning this weekend
Good tutorial GC 👍🏼 I would like to add to put a clear tape on the frame so that the support brace doesn’t rub off the paint on your seat post overtime… just a personal thing.😉
yea very nice suggestion
I like these Mechanic tip videos. Good stuff, thanks.
Thanks for that video! I wondered for quite long what these little plastic parts are good for and never found a real answer, ignoring appropriate search terms. Now I got it and will install. Let’s see if chain drops are going to decrease.
I am glad it helped out!!
Grant, what a goofball love the acting!!!!!!!!!!! hahahahhahah
Yes please more tutorials as well!!!
I really love Sram, it has
everything to do with innovation. I never let the wedge touch the carbon frame. Instead, I use a smaller wedge and let it touch against the braze-on derailleur hanger. This is to prevent cracking the frame if something smashes the front derailleur.
Great video. Once a sram front derailleur is installed perfectly you dont get a dropped chain anymore.
:)
Thanks for how to adjust the FD. I need to check this because I've had a few inside overshifts.
Thanks for this. Please do one for the rear as well
Will do
This was real cool, thanks. Woudl love to see you go through the back derailler that tends to be a bit noisy....Thanks.
Bike shop didn’t install that on my Cervelo sram rival but found the parts in a bag. Thanks for the heads up!!WTH
no problem!!! yea we see this alot tbh
Hi, thanks for the tutotials, I was one of the first sram red axs users on the new venge when was released and when there was not the sram front mech jig, by then never had an issue cause I took my time to fine tune it, later on when the group was more common did see lots of people with issues but I believe it was bad tuning, also had seen some frames with the front mount hanger that do not allow the FD to twist inward like toe in on the back to have it perfect aligned and that requires to modify the base of the frame like sand it a little so the FD move in a little more. hope this helps some folks.
thanks for this
Super timing! I'm building a new bike and had been agonizing for days on if I wanted to do an Ultegra or Red groupset - finally choosing red since I was too lazy to do the DI2 cable routing. Dropped chains were my main hold up.
I wound up getting a SRAM force FD to go with the Red stuff just for the slightly improved shifting performance
Route two tiny cables once (5min) vs chain drops for life.
You have chosen………. poorly.
@@BrianMcDonald Yep - I'm running Rival FD with all Red for this reason
Like you read my mind! I just had another dropped chain on a new Force AXS groupset and was thinking, man, when does Sram learn to do proper front shifting. Thanks for the tip.
Their shifting is fine. Dudes in world tour dropping shimano chains too.
Get your stuff set up right and you'll be fine
Enjoyed the infomercial style intro. A black and white filter on a B-roll of the moment the chain dropped would have been the cherry on top.
thanks so much!!!
I've yet to have a chain drop on the updated Force group. My Rival front mech drops all the time so I'm definitely going to use your tip.
On my first ride with SRAM etap the front derailleur wasn't properly installed so threw over the chain (shop installed it). It was a 300 km race and happened the first 100 meters. Had to jump off, get the chain on and chase down the group for minutes, not the best start on 300km. Had to use the big ring for the whole race. But after that, I got it dialed on properly and never had a problem with the shifting after that.
I have SRAM Red and i set my FD cage as far inboard as possible when in big/small without rub. I installed a SRAM Force 22 chain catcher so it wouldn't drop inside. Its bombproof, I never even look down when shifting the FD, never ever drops, outside or inside and no rub in any gear.
I’m just about to do a build with Red myself. Do you think a change catcher is a must?
@@TerjeRiisnaes I was having an issue with chain dropping to the outside, I reset the FD from scratch like this video and then it would drop inside when shifting the FD while in the biggest 3 on the rear cassette. It wouldn't happen often but once in a while and was annoying. My old bike had Force 22 and never had any drop issues. Bought a catcher and all is good. I never think about it anymore. No matter what combination never an issue. I would say yes, its a must. The SRAM FD really needs a trim function but Shimano has that patent on lock.
@@norevlimitr1602I thought SRAM front derailleurs have Yaw Technology that utilises two differently sized parallelogram linkages front and back and a cage that widens at the rear?
@@yonglingng5640 Yes I know all that. Thats marketing, reality is different.
as long as it adjusted correctly you are god to go!! alot of people look past limit screws on electronic groups but they are key
for me, it drops in the other direction - between small ring and bottom bracket shell. Even with a K-edge chain catcher it, somehow, still drops between the small-ring and BB shell.
Sounds like the chain catcher was not installed properly if there was enough space for the chain to go down still.
Thanks really good video and a definite plus one for you to show work on the rear derailleur
thank you!!
Thanks again for another informative video.
Essentially install the derailleur correctly and it works as intended. The same with all derailleur
hahhahah yhou would be suprised how many I see come in not installed right
I literally just had this happen for the first time yesterday on my felt. Perfect video timing :D
wont be the last time. i gave up and only run 1x now.
@@xyse247 It's been over a year and that's my first drop so I think my initial setup has just moved a little. That's about the same maint schedule I had with having to retweak the limits on mech shimano
@@letheal that's the troubling part for me, i have been riding axs 2x for many years, and not able to trust it 100% is killing me. the tolerance of the sram front derailleur is just so tight.
I set two AXS front derailleurs up following SRAM's instructions (first gen force and new force) and haven't had any dropping problems. I installed a chain catch for the bottom bracket area but it hasn't been needed yet.
yea the chain catch is always a nice saftey net to have for any component
I've been training and gravel racing on SRAM AXS for two seasons now with zero issues. Factory installed by Giant.
yea a lot of people od not have this but, for some reason sram is known for this with the front der, alot of people say that the front der gives them the most chain drops
Nicley done GC. Very helpful. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
From experience, ive found using the alignment tool is good to align the derailer with the sprocket, but leaves the derailer too high off the large chainring. Manually adjusting the derailer to between 1.5mm to 2mm above the large chain works best from my experience.
Don't ever increase your video production 😂😂😂😂. We love you and the thumbnail is jokes
lol I am happy you all love it
Shimano all the way...i own both sram red & 12speed dura ace di2 but i prefer shimano...Shimano uses mineral oil, shifts faster, no chain drop, hoods feel better, brakes stop on a dime, looks better to me(sleeker stealth look), and the battery last forever...😅
Great video! No surprises that “properly” installing the derailleur with the manufacturer provided installation tool actually makes it work right?? Haha who’d have thought!? I can confirm that doing this does significantly increase performance and lessen chain drops compared to doing it by eye (in my universe of 1 though)
I've installed a few SRAM eTap AXS front derailleurs with SRAM's dedicated positioning tool and it doesn't actually set up yaw as perfectly as I'd like, mostly with a little toe-in. I then refined the yaw by eye and no setup I've done has ever dropped chains.
@@yonglingng5640 yeah I agree, I think the key here is each frameset slightly different geometry, that’s what I’ve also noticed which effects yaw etc
lol who would of thunk it
I think the slides look cool but I think they would be even better if they were more like recovery slides. Hoka was the first brand that I saw make them and they seem to be popular with runners especially after races and hard workouts. Would be sick to have some GC performance recovery slides for the drive home after a long ride
that would be sick, we could spin it both ways lol.... i use them when I go to and from a ride lol
Cool Vid. and slides are dope. I'll take a pair!
thanks so much still working it out
I have Red eTap from 2017 on one of my bikes, had loads of issues with chains being thrown early on and after much experimentation with positioning I got it to the point it was fairly reliable if I shifted under light load and at a certain position on the pedal stroke (TDC)
What finally cured it was my decision to ditch the Red chainset and put a Shimano 105 series on, since then not a single issue, front mech has been moved several times for chainring sizes altering and it’s never dropped. Take from that what you will but the fact it still happens with SRAM front mechs 7 yrs after i started experiencing it is laughable 🤣
yea if a rider beocmes in tune with there bike and knows when to shift then that really does help
@@GCPerformance18 Agree, even Ultegra di2 12spd has an optimal shift point I’ve found.
So enthusiastic 😂😂😂
The opening of video had me thinking Phil Swift was going to pop up and say “fix that dropped chain with Flex Seal!”
hahahahha I was going for infomercial style
I don't have AXS, but interested to see this. Just had a quick Google for this tool and was very surprised to see it retailing over here in the UK for £6 (around $7.50 US). I have to say, that's pretty good value for a major manufacturer
I appreciate you stopping by to watch
This was a great video and perfect timing! Not only am I just finishing my first full build but my other bike has been dropping the chain. Will do this later today! Also is there a way or is it possible to use a 10/36 cassette with a Red axs derailleur or am I actually limited to a 10/33.
Usually the 10-33-max SRAM RD will work with 10-36 cassette, but it depends on the bike/derailleur hanger...
Or you can wait for the new SRAM Red coming next week, that one will have Red 10-36 cassette/RD combo :)
I hope it helps
If I attempted this at home, it would guarantee a trip to the bike shop and some choice garage profanity. 🤪
hahaha truth
One of the secrets on SRAM derailleurs is using Locktite on the adjustment screws. They loosen over time unless you fix them, and then you'll end up with dropped chains and scratches on your beloved steed.
nice good info
Excellent video. May I suggest you use a torque wrench where needed. I bought SRAM Force 2022 installed on Ritchey Steal frame Outback Breakaway for travel bike. Dropped chain inside or outside every ride. 5 bike shops attempted to adjust so I filed a claim with SRAM. Never resolved. That year was a poor design. The next year SRAM narrowed the shift bracket and stiffened the front chain ring. I see there are updates now for 2024. Never again will I buy SRAM. Shimano and DTSwiss wheels because ZIPP is pure crap as well.
yes I was thinking of using the torque wrench for these type of comments but just sent it, I am pretty familiar with torque feeling
The biggest reason people have issues with SRAM front derailleurs is because they set them up as if they are Shimano. They'll then reply "but my bike shop set it up" and there is my point, a lot of bike shop "mechanics" still don't know how to set SRAM up properly.
Can't stress enough the importance of the wedge. One of my 3 SRAM bikes I can't access behind the derailleur easily to insert the wedge (90s Superbike) and it's shifting performance under load is not as good as the other 2. Solved the problem by pre-installing the wedge but it was by micro adjusting its position and uninstall/reinstall the derailleur until it was right. Yes a faf but its what you gotta do when making new tech work with a 90s aero bike, and this is a rare situation.
Yes I have to remove the wheel to adjust the wedge and tighten the fixing screw.
yes I see so many bikes come in with this piece missing or it not even touching the frame, makes no sense to me
That braze against the frame is not necessary or even possible when you use the official brazeclamp from SRAM I suppose? From personal experience; please be careful with those low and high limit screws because when bolted in too far they can really mess up your mech and that is one expensive mistake potentially, believe me lol....
Brilliant vid my bike has the chain drop problem but only does it if I hold both gear change levers for 2 long if I just tap them it doesn't do it????.
Sounds like something's wrong with the circuitry, I've never had to press & hold both shift buttons. Have it checked by a SRAM retailer if firmware updates don't work.
The Force D2 fd has a redesigned cage. There should be less chain drops
yes i heard that which should be good
Better yet ride Shimano on the road ride SRAM 1x on gravel or mtn
If someone’s watching GC for the fist time in this video and they’re not familiar with his sense of humor, they have to wonder who the f is this guy! Love your videos, G! And your sense of humor. The slides are cool by the way:-) Very Florida 😅
hahaha thanks so much!!! yea I didnt think like that, they are probably like this guy cant be serious with that acting
I wish Shimano makes that same tool. Although I've never had issue installing Shimano FD.
To be fair, I've never had much difficulty (if any) installing any front derailleur. Shimano front derailleur installation is so straight-to-the-point.
Do you have a recommendation for which SRAM wedge you would use on a SL8. None of mine seem to match
should be the middle one
Assuming you know about next Wednesdays release, one might infer from this video-which seems to address the difficulty setting up current Sram front mechs-that the soon to be released Red overcomes these often encountered issu
Hi! Are you pro-used master link for sram flat top?
hahaha yes if it is new or used a couple times it usually good, but over 5 or more times replace
Will the AXS tool work with the old Red 22 Etap as well?
Cheers Matze
no this is new one
*Laughs in Shimano Sora*
Eww gross
I've had the drop happen a few times going from big to small ring going up hill. I've found with SRAM Force AXS, I need to pause a second before engaging the pedals after shifting in either direction or I risk dropping the chain. I don't know if this is a SRAM thing or the front derailleur adjustment. I know SRAM shifting isn't supposed to be as quick as Di2.
yes see this is what I am talking about us as riders can feel when the best time to shift and what we can do to optimize it
Been riding 2 by and 3 by shimano my whole life never had issues with chain drop
Looks like the newer gen etap shifts better, been riding on the first gen etap on Absolute Black oval chainrings since etap first released and have learned how to dial it in (very finicky but even with oval chainrings I rarely have a dropped chain)
I had ongoing issues, which were caused by the mounting bracket being spray painted. Once the paint was sanded off... no more chain drops.
thats wild, so weird
@@GCPerformance18 the bike brand, in newer models, doesn't paint the bracket anymore. I was hating on Sram so much as it cost me races. But I haven't had an issue in over a year now, it was really a simple solution in the end.
Great video
Is there a parts number or name (maybe I missed it in the video) to try and order them from you or sram? I get more dropped chains than I like and want to see if this solves that issue.
Edit; Found on of them - SRAM 12-speed Front Derailleur Alignment tool part number is 00.7618.170.000. Couldn't find the wedge thing.
very very nice
i never have this issue, because my bike is 1 by 12, you recommend put a chain guide? Only for security
I used one on my mtb 1×10 with a Shimano SLX rear derailleur that didnt have a clutch. Never dropped a chain. And shifting was smooth and easy without the resistance from the clutch.
On a Colnago C68 the Sram height guide tool mounts the mech too low, because of the laid back angle of that frames seat-tube (you have to manually nudge mech up a bit)
Yeah, it's not perfect. In my case, there's too much toe-in when set up with the guide, so I always had to refine the adjustment manually.
yea some bikes it is not always exact like some enthusiast brands but it is a great starting point
The secret is just to use 1X 💥💯
this is the best secret to know lol
thank you, where can i find that small piece or whats the official name of that piece so i can look for it. By the way i ride a VR RCR force axs !
Dammm I rode that bike for a while it’s fun. Ask your dealer for it they can order
@@GCPerformance18 mate, my dealer is decathlon in france, trust me its better if i make the research myself 🤭
There is one huge problem with this whole installing concept: sram brought to the market this tool way after they launched axs groupsets, which means they didnt develop the tool with the fd at the same time. It works sometimes, sometimes you have to struggle with it.
First problem is you're running a front derailleur 😉🤣
My Shimano bikes rarely drop their chain. My SRAM bikes frequently drop their chain. Oh, Shimano hoods are more comfortable too.
I've never had my SRAM setup do that
some people have
@@GCPerformance18 oh yea, I know. I had more issues on the Shimano 10 speed than anything else, but I do agree, the little blocks behind the FD do help.
I like your channel, great stuff usually but this video was weird. All the steps you mentioned including the "plastic piece" is included in the SRAM official installation video.
I've done multiple SRAM AXS bikes and never had a chain drop. Only drops been in Shimano bikes. Also I haven't heard any of my friends having problems.
Is this a problem only for the shops/guys/pro-teams who don't follow the instructions???
You would be suprised how many customers bikes come into my store who don’t not set up the front der correctly, we don’t experience a lot of chain drop here because no one shifts front der but a lot of people talk about this
Great video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Do you lock tight your B limit screw?
I do not but i have seen people talk about that we have really cmooth roads here
Much appreciated
you are very welcome
I'm want to watch as I got SRAM red etap and never had it drop, yes etap, not axs, mine is 11 speed, to add even under load I yet to use the plastic bit on back of front derailleur
Thanks. Does Shimano have a guide?
Shimano front derailleur installation never needs that kind of guide. Just set it up with no toe and 1 - 3 mm (I personally do 1.5 mm) above the large chainring's teeth.
nope jsut setup and go
S-RUM chains are just drunk all the time!
Do you also know why the sram rear derailleur shift by his own while riding on cobbles? Its like one move lower and then going back in the normal gear for like 10x times on a 1km road!? (No) funny thing but nobody can give me a answer to it. Thanks.
I have no idea, to be honest, we dont have that bad of roads over here so I can answer that I mean maybe soimething inside the rear der is getting actuated when the impacts of the cobbles are making it shift like on the pcb board or something
Do you think the red SRAM tool works with Shimano?
No.
no it does not but the sticker on the front derailer helps a lot on a new setup
I hear hookless rims make chains drop more.
The chains see the hookless setup and go . . . -- a chain reaction!
lmao
Grant be getting hit in the face at home with GC Performance chancletas!
Hahhahahhaa
I like you guy. Always good
thanks so much!!
I'm from France. Where is your Shop ?
Surely it would be a lot less hassle just to get a bus or train to were you want to go and no taking components apart and put back together like with a bicycle.
lmao this is not about commuting, this is for sport
Any update on the wheeltop eds tx?
I rode it yesterday got about just over 100 miles on it and the group is running very nice and still holding charge since i started, the only downside to the group is the app and how to set it up and ajust the gears, it sucks but with patience it works
I can fix it too. Throw the Sram garbage in the trash and embrace the proper Shimano bits.
lmao jeeeeze
Wth my old 105 mechanical never dropped the chain. Why the heck expensive groupset suffer that problem?
shimano has patents on there front mech and it is nice, sram has ther eown saystem to work around shimano so it has some issues
Anyone have shifting issue, my left shift (Red Axs) won’t shift at times, need to press a few more time or press and hold?
TIA!
check the battery ion the shifter
I did replace shifter battery and updated the firmware.
The bike shop said it’s normal sometime it won’t shift 😳
thanks
I’ve always hated that plastic brace, it’s such a last minute design.
lmao it sucks but its there, so we cant really do anything about it
Couldn’t find the plastic piece on Sram and it doesn’t look like there space for it on the Specialized SL8 frame
yes this is, they make 3 of them, I have installed them myself
@@GCPerformance18 could you please send me the part number
I think SRAM recommends not to reuse the chain link. What do you think?
yea this is what the recommended, but honestly I think they want to sell more of them because they are a business but at the end of the day the quick link was designed to make it for quick service and ot be able to remove the chain easily
What about if my chain drops from big ring to small ring only when im changing the rear cogs?
Then you have chainline problems, no SRAM eTap AXS groupset I've worked with and set up ever did that. If you're saying that with the front derailleur also being actuated by itself, Sequential Shift Mode is on.
@@yonglingng5640 no it's not sequential shifting that's turned off. It happens only sometimes when shifting rear cogs, it will occasionally drop the big ring to little without the front derailleur moving
this setup should take care of both shifting over the top and the bottom, while setting the limit screw in the video this should make the front der need to be in the exact right plac e
@@GCPerformance18 thank you! I'll make a slight adjustment to the limit screw as you've shown.
lol 6000$ and you drop the chain on the ROAD?!
They got this figured out well with T-type for sure. I guess road need minimal tension
If the derailleur is adjusted badly then it will drop chain even if the bike is $20k
@@piast99 IN ROAD? pretty insane. This was completely figured out years ago... i guess front RD is different. havent used that in many many years.
???Hey GC. My chain gets thrown off and into my frame at the Rear when I'm in my 52-11 and I pedal backwards. Dura Ace 12 speed. 11-34 cassette. Any ideas what might be causing this???
I would be looking at the high limit screw setting I think, and maybe avoid the back-pedalling!
I know it sounds dumb but dfont pedal backwards, those cassette have ramping on there to shift it up, so when you pedal backwards its gonna get clipped and maybe throw it down
@@GCPerformance18 I see. The weird thing is that if I'm in that 52x11 and I go over a bump, chain gets thrown down and into the frame if I'm not pedaling. Causing the chain to get caught between frame and 11 tooth sprocket. Lately I've had to keep aware when descending mountains NOT to be in that gear and not to pedal backwards, otherwise chain gets caught. It's really only in that gear.