The PK125 is designed so the CSV can go in the well and the manifold and tank can be a long way from there in the house or something. This if for systems that have a hydrant or water line tee off between the well and the house. If all the water lines tee off after the pressure tank in the house, the PK1A is best.
Question? My well has black sediment that looks like carbon. This sediment is caught by a filter prior to my RO membrane. The CSV would be installed before the sediment filter. Will this clog the CSV? Or is this a mon issue. My submersible cycles about 500 times a day right now. Thanks
Sorry. Thought I answered this. The CSV1A is designed to handle some sediment, so it won't be a problem before the filter. You might be surprised how much using the CSV to eliminate all that cycling will help with the sediment problem. Every time the pump cycles it is also surging the well up and down.
Will the CSV125-50-1 work with a 2 gallon pressure tank with a 0.6 gallon draw down and a flow rate of less than 5 gallons per minute? The pump has a built-in pressure switch set to 40/60.
The CSV12550-1 will not let the pump cycle if you are using 2 GPM or more. It will work fine with a 2.2 gallon tank, but we prefer the 4.5 so you have 1.2 gallons of draw in case there is a leak during times when the pump is off.
Thanks for the video. I have a newly installed shallow well water using a 2 gallon Thermal Expansion Tank (Zurn XT-8) I had it installed. Anyway, if I want to install a CSV, do I need to replace that 2 gallon tank? Maybe with a 4.5 or maybe 20 gallon tank. Also, my well pump has a built in pressure switch. I assume I will install the CSV between my well pump and tank correct?
A 4.5 gallon tank holds 1 gallon of water. A 2.2 gallon size tank only holds 1/2 gallon of water. But with a CSV on a jet pump the difference in tank size won't matter much. It the tank is still good, I would not replace it. Just put the CSV before the pressure tank or any tees or hydrants. You can extend the tube on the existing pressure switch over to the line at the pressure tank, because the switch has to see pressure after the CSV, not before. But sometimes it is easier to just buy a regular pressure switch to attach to the tank line, and just wire around the switch on the side of the motor like it shows in our installation drawings.
Any idea which of the PK125s I would need? 1HP Goulds jet pump (Equivalent of J10 model) with 30/50 switch. It does not say what it's gpm is anywhere on it. Pressure tank looks to be about 20 gallons maybe (but I need to double check). Could be smaller. It's a big ugly cheap fiberglass thing that the repair guy found in a pinch when the old one failed. Will the pk125 work without a pressure switch? I suppose I should go to the forums and post pics if allowed. LOL.
I'm looking to install something like this on my well that I use for watering my lawn. Is the small pressure tank necessary? Or can I just use the valve and do away with the tanks all together?
If you have a pump start relay in the irrigation controller or if you start the pump manually, a CSV will work without a pressure tank/pressure switch. But if you want the pump to automatically come on when opening a faucet or just turning on a sprinkler, a small pressure tank/pressure switch in combination with a CSV is the way to go.
I recently purchased this valve (waiting for it to arrive) and I will be putting it in my well as it is designed. I wonder though if it is a problem having the pressure switch on the pump side of the system? Or should the switch be on the other side of the pressure tanks ( house side). I recently changed my pump from a jet to a submersible and pulled the pressure tank from inside the well because we have -30 C temps in winter and the person who put this together had the tank and switch in the well on a platform (shallow well) and had to run a heater in there to keep it from freezing. I would have moved the pressure switch too but the electrical source is from the barn and the wires are all buried so I would have to dig a trench about 200’ from the house to the well to change that. Any thoughts? Thanks!
The CSV needs to go before the pressure tank, pressure switch, or any water lines or hydrants. The pressure switch needs to be close to a tank to keep it from bouncing the pump on and off. If your tank is too far from the pressure switch, you can put an additional small tank with the pressure switch.
Cycle Stop Valves you are the first person to explain ( even without me asking) why my gauge and pressure switch are bouncing! I talked to multiple companies and most said my tank was water logged so I bought another..... I should have known it wasn’t, it was holding pressure! Is the bouncing going to hurt anything? I REALLY hope it’s ok because it was a lot of work to dig under the house through clay and then dig a pit underneath for 2 tanks to sit!
It is not air that is the problem, but rather the air compressor. Air compressors are positive displacement not centrifugal, and will load up when the flow is restricted. You can use a pressure regulator on the discharge side of the air tank, but not between the compressor and air tank.
Or you could just ask someone who knows why the 63 dollar CSV125 is not work properly before you waste thousands of dollars on a VFD, which by its technical nature is much less dependable than a CSV. The CSV 125 is not adjustable. It comes in 40, 50, or 60 PSI. Do you have your pressure switch turned up to shut the pump off higher than the pressure of the CSV you have? A 40/60 pressure switch will shut the pump off at 60 before a 60 PSI Cycle Stop Valve ever gets a chance to work. Also you wrote CSV1.25, which is an old model number. The model that has been available for several years does not have the point in it. It is just CSV125. So is this an old valve that stopped working after some time, or was the pressure switch never turned up high enough for the CSV to do any work?
Here is the complete valve ID csv1.2550 2-50gpm 2013, the pressure switch is 30/50, there is no information that came with it and the installer/plumber says that's all there is to it.
Just as I thought, you have a 50 PSI Cycle Stop Valve and your 30/50 pressure switch is shutting the pump off at 50, before the CSV has a chance to work. Turn the large screw in the pressure switch about 3 full turns to the right. That will make it a 40/60 switch, and the 50 PSI CSV will finally be able to do its job. The CSV is a simple and dependable valve. Just have to get the pressure switch set correctly so it can work.
Hi, My water source comes from the city distribution and i have installed a booster pump. is it better to install csv than a regular pressure tank system? also do you ship in the philippines?
A CSV will work better than a regular pressure tank system. The CSV still uses the regular pressure tank and pressure switch, it just doesn't need as large a pressure tank. Normally with a city water booster pump we use a 4.5 gallon pressure tank.
Sure. The CSV doesn't know if the water for the pump is coming from a well, a tank, a river, a lake, etc. Any pump system that could use a pressure switch or a VFD for control would work much better with a CSV instead.
Only $224 in the US. They cost so much because Canada adds so much for customs fees. But no matter what they cost, a CSV will save you at least 2-3 pumps over the years. Plus, being able to use a small tank usually more than offsets the entire price of a CSV. Not to mention the value of having strong constant pressure.
What size pump would I need to use this set up to irrigate a drip irrigation system with about 4 zone and a few hydrants along the way to water animals? I am looking to pump water out of a creek with a solar set up. I was thinking of using this pump here: shurflo 8000 -543- 236. I am not sure if that would be enough or not? What are you thoughts.
Those are RV type pumps that work off 12 volts. Might work but not made to run continuously like a jet or submersible pump, so may not last long. The drip won't need much water but to water animals you will need 5-10 GPM pump. A 1/2HP jet pump like a J5S will work. The Grundfos SQ submersible has a soft start and works well on solar or generators. Either of those will work with a PK1A control kit and are made to run continuously like for the drip system.
@@EarlybirdFarmSC If you use a regular jet pump or submersible you will need the PK1A with the pressure tank and everything. If you use the little 12V RV type pump you don't need a tank.
What is the difference between a PK 125 and a PK1 AA? Also does a cycle stop valve require a 6040 pressure switch? Thanks so much I love it
The PK125 is designed so the CSV can go in the well and the manifold and tank can be a long way from there in the house or something. This if for systems that have a hydrant or water line tee off between the well and the house. If all the water lines tee off after the pressure tank in the house, the PK1A is best.
Question? My well has black sediment that looks like carbon. This sediment is caught by a filter prior to my RO membrane. The CSV would be installed before the sediment filter. Will this clog the CSV? Or is this a mon issue. My submersible cycles about 500 times a day right now. Thanks
Sorry. Thought I answered this. The CSV1A is designed to handle some sediment, so it won't be a problem before the filter. You might be surprised how much using the CSV to eliminate all that cycling will help with the sediment problem. Every time the pump cycles it is also surging the well up and down.
Will the CSV125-50-1 work with a 2 gallon pressure tank with a 0.6 gallon draw down and a flow rate of less than 5 gallons per minute? The pump has a built-in pressure switch set to 40/60.
The CSV12550-1 will not let the pump cycle if you are using 2 GPM or more. It will work fine with a 2.2 gallon tank, but we prefer the 4.5 so you have 1.2 gallons of draw in case there is a leak during times when the pump is off.
Tech Support was the best
Thanks for the video. I have a newly installed shallow well water using a 2 gallon Thermal Expansion Tank (Zurn XT-8) I had it installed. Anyway, if I want to install a CSV, do I need to replace that 2 gallon tank? Maybe with a 4.5 or maybe 20 gallon tank. Also, my well pump has a built in pressure switch. I assume I will install the CSV between my well pump and tank correct?
A 4.5 gallon tank holds 1 gallon of water. A 2.2 gallon size tank only holds 1/2 gallon of water. But with a CSV on a jet pump the difference in tank size won't matter much. It the tank is still good, I would not replace it. Just put the CSV before the pressure tank or any tees or hydrants. You can extend the tube on the existing pressure switch over to the line at the pressure tank, because the switch has to see pressure after the CSV, not before. But sometimes it is easier to just buy a regular pressure switch to attach to the tank line, and just wire around the switch on the side of the motor like it shows in our installation drawings.
Thank you for the quick response.
Any idea which of the PK125s I would need? 1HP Goulds jet pump (Equivalent of J10 model) with 30/50 switch. It does not say what it's gpm is anywhere on it. Pressure tank looks to be about 20 gallons maybe (but I need to double check). Could be smaller. It's a big ugly cheap fiberglass thing that the repair guy found in a pinch when the old one failed.
Will the pk125 work without a pressure switch? I suppose I should go to the forums and post pics if allowed. LOL.
Don't know how I missed this. Call if we haven't already helped you? Thanks. Cary 806-885-4445
I'm looking to install something like this on my well that I use for watering my lawn. Is the small pressure tank necessary? Or can I just use the valve and do away with the tanks all together?
If you have a pump start relay in the irrigation controller or if you start the pump manually, a CSV will work without a pressure tank/pressure switch. But if you want the pump to automatically come on when opening a faucet or just turning on a sprinkler, a small pressure tank/pressure switch in combination with a CSV is the way to go.
I recently purchased this valve (waiting for it to arrive) and I will be putting it in my well as it is designed. I wonder though if it is a problem having the pressure switch on the pump side of the system? Or should the switch be on the other side of the pressure tanks ( house side). I recently changed my pump from a jet to a submersible and pulled the pressure tank from inside the well because we have -30 C temps in winter and the person who put this together had the tank and switch in the well on a platform (shallow well) and had to run a heater in there to keep it from freezing. I would have moved the pressure switch too but the electrical source is from the barn and the wires are all buried so I would have to dig a trench about 200’ from the house to the well to change that.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
The CSV needs to go before the pressure tank, pressure switch, or any water lines or hydrants. The pressure switch needs to be close to a tank to keep it from bouncing the pump on and off. If your tank is too far from the pressure switch, you can put an additional small tank with the pressure switch.
Cycle Stop Valves you are the first person to explain ( even without me asking) why my gauge and pressure switch are bouncing! I talked to multiple companies and most said my tank was water logged so I bought another..... I should have known it wasn’t, it was holding pressure!
Is the bouncing going to hurt anything?
I REALLY hope it’s ok because it was a lot of work to dig under the house through clay and then dig a pit underneath for 2 tanks to sit!
Sorry I missed this. Give me a call if I can still help? Cary 806-885-4445
Is possible to use CSV for other types of fluid? Such as pressure regulator of compressed air.
It is not air that is the problem, but rather the air compressor. Air compressors are positive displacement not centrifugal, and will load up when the flow is restricted. You can use a pressure regulator on the discharge side of the air tank, but not between the compressor and air tank.
My pump constantly cycles with the CSV 1.25. Looking into a VFD I know it will work.
Or you could just ask someone who knows why the 63 dollar CSV125 is not work properly before you waste thousands of dollars on a VFD, which by its technical nature is much less dependable than a CSV.
The CSV 125 is not adjustable. It comes in 40, 50, or 60 PSI. Do you have your pressure switch turned up to shut the pump off higher than the pressure of the CSV you have? A 40/60 pressure switch will shut the pump off at 60 before a 60 PSI Cycle Stop Valve ever gets a chance to work.
Also you wrote CSV1.25, which is an old model number. The model that has been available for several years does not have the point in it. It is just CSV125. So is this an old valve that stopped working after some time, or was the pressure switch never turned up high enough for the CSV to do any work?
Here is the complete valve ID csv1.2550 2-50gpm 2013, the pressure switch is 30/50, there is no information that came with it and the installer/plumber says that's all there is to it.
Just as I thought, you have a 50 PSI Cycle Stop Valve and your 30/50 pressure switch is shutting the pump off at 50, before the CSV has a chance to work. Turn the large screw in the pressure switch about 3 full turns to the right. That will make it a 40/60 switch, and the 50 PSI CSV will finally be able to do its job. The CSV is a simple and dependable valve. Just have to get the pressure switch set correctly so it can work.
Hi, My water source comes from the city distribution and i have installed a booster pump. is it better to install csv than a regular pressure tank system? also do you ship in the philippines?
A CSV will work better than a regular pressure tank system. The CSV still uses the regular pressure tank and pressure switch, it just doesn't need as large a pressure tank. Normally with a city water booster pump we use a 4.5 gallon pressure tank.
Who do I call to have one installed? I am not able to do this myself.
will this work if i have water coming into house from a well water tank to a booster pump for the whole house? is a pre filter a good idea?
Sure. The CSV doesn't know if the water for the pump is coming from a well, a tank, a river, a lake, etc. Any pump system that could use a pressure switch or a VFD for control would work much better with a CSV instead.
Thank you for your reply
I would buy one if they didn’t cost as much as the pump. Cost $360 in Canada. Probably only costs them about $60 to make. It’s ridiculous
Only $224 in the US. They cost so much because Canada adds so much for customs fees. But no matter what they cost, a CSV will save you at least 2-3 pumps over the years. Plus, being able to use a small tank usually more than offsets the entire price of a CSV. Not to mention the value of having strong constant pressure.
psi on the relief valve?
15 PSI higher than the pressure switch shut off point. IE; 40/60 switch, pressure relief at 75 PSI.
What size pump would I need to use this set up to irrigate a drip irrigation system with about 4 zone and a few hydrants along the way to water animals? I am looking to pump water out of a creek with a solar set up. I was thinking of using this pump here: shurflo 8000 -543- 236. I am not sure if that would be enough or not? What are you thoughts.
Those are RV type pumps that work off 12 volts. Might work but not made to run continuously like a jet or submersible pump, so may not last long. The drip won't need much water but to water animals you will need 5-10 GPM pump. A 1/2HP jet pump like a J5S will work. The Grundfos SQ submersible has a soft start and works well on solar or generators. Either of those will work with a PK1A control kit and are made to run continuously like for the drip system.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 Thanks so much. Would it still benefit me to get one of these valves? Do I really need a pressure tank? Thanks for your help!
@@EarlybirdFarmSC If you use a regular jet pump or submersible you will need the PK1A with the pressure tank and everything. If you use the little 12V RV type pump you don't need a tank.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 Thanks so much for your help. I truly appreciate it.