This has been a good series to listen to. I appreciate your perspective on this so thank you for taking the time to make them. Love the torque inserts by the way and run them on multiple bikes!!
Thanks man. We're just getting into the good stuff on this series. Glad you are liking it. Yeah, the TTI's are a great bang for the buck, we appreciate your business.
after 118 years of making mc , you would think the co. would have it down as far as eng heat goes. we the consumer have to buy tuning mods. coolers, better exhaust, air intakes, deflectors, a better oil pump, special hi-end oil, and all kinds of eng mods just to get them running decent. i sold my bike and brought a mule, the bastard goes everywhere in all weather. my biggest expense was a saddle & blanket. no ins cost or regerstration fees. if i get hungry i can bbq him and eat!
There ya go! :) Yep, it is unfortunate all the regs put on HD by the EPA....they have to run hot, which is not good. It also does not help that HD being public answers to their shareholders for short term profit.
If Harley-Davidson engineered all of the "flaws" out of their motorcycles all the aftermarket solutions would be unnecessary and you guys, and many others, would be out of business! Keep up the good work!
Hi I'm a new Harley owner, was wondering why my bagger was not wearing its left upper heat shield , spent 45 mins putting new clamps on it and refitting it, now I'll be taking it off again.! Looking forward to a full service and inspection in my garage in the next few weeks, your information is priceless to a guy like myself, thanks for your time and best wishes from across the pond.
I have already done a lot of the mods in this series. 2014 FLHTP stage 1, catless head pipe, external breather, 20-50 Mobil 1, removed left side shield. On a recent 100 degree two up ride my Powervision ET was at 265 which didn't seem too bad. Looking to get an oil temp dipstick and maybe your filter relocation kit and straight 50w for my next oil change. I remember in the 70's and 80's everyone ran 50 or 60W.
Hey Greg, yeah, that temp is not bad for a hot 100* day and some aggressive riding...it would be preferable for it to top out around 250, but it is MUCH better than the temps you would be getting in stock condition.
Tomorrow is cleaning day and I'm removing the left thigh protector. I'm from Las Vegas and it's starting to heat up. today it's 96. What you said makes sense so heres to cooling the Hog down... Back in the late 70's I used 60W in the summer and 50 in the winter. Never had a problem with my 76 or 71 (in that order) Shovelheads...
Really enjoying the content / info in these videos guys as I've owned my Street Glide for a bit over 5 years now and (regrettably) never really payed too much attention to operating temperatures and things like that until this year. After a few hotter than normal riding days (for Australia anyway); I started to take note / keep a record of oil temperatures and have been looking into ways to help keep those temperatures them as low as possible. This series has really helped by giving me a starting point and couple of things to try out, cheers!
@@DKCustomProducts sure is, had a frosty ride to work the other day but yeah the warmer weather is coming; along with a few goodies for the bike to help with the heat 🤙
Im in Phx Az . its 115 degrees in the afternoon all summer. Simply put dont ride in this heat. Ride at night or early morning. Your rear cylinder will thank you.
Yep, areas of the country are really hot. Hottest we rode thru was 117* and it was pretty brutal on Mary. Engine ran fine though, did not get too hot with the help we've given it.
When I had my sportster I put the fp3 tuner on it, It ran much better and cooler. I just purchased a 2016 dyna switchback I plan getting a fp3 for this as well. I've been using Lucas full synthetic an am happy with it. Enjoy your channel , stay safe!
Great video as always. Bummed out to hear about fork deflectors. I just purchased a road king and the updraft is ridiculous. There's a difference between enjoying the wind and getting beat up by the wind.
Yeah, when we discovered how much heat they add in warm weather it was a real bummer for me too...cause they are really good at reducing buffeting. That is when we sat down and said there must be a way to reduce buffeting AND cool the engine instead of heat it up. After a lot of experimenting we came up with the CDW's that you can see at this link- www.dkcustomproducts.com/cooling-deflector-wings-for-touring-trike-models-dk-cdw-trg.htm
@@DKCustomProducts Thanks. I have a few of your products now - tank lift and oil catch can for air cleaner - not sure I would like these on the road king. I think they blend better with lower fairings. What I can't figure out is why the road glide (which I have) wind deflector kit won't work for the road king. The 2 bikes are in different locations so I can't take mine off the RG and try it on the RK but it does not show as compatible for the RK. It just snaps on to the engine guard and the tank bolt mount. Although I am not sure it would look any better than your CDWs
@@RideAmerica Appreciate the business, and glad you're enjoying those. Yeah, I'm thinking the RG will fit, but will stick up a lot. Look at the photo of the orange freewheeler at the links below...that is what your Road King would look like with the CDW's...they are pretty stealth. They don't stick out much further than the width of the forks. www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/d/cdw_nl_2.jpg www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/d/cdw_nl_1.jpg Oh, here's a pic of some on a Road King...you have to really look to even see them. www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/d/cdw_2_anthony-edited.jpg
@@DKCustomProducts I'll give a closer look. I hope this isn't inappropriate but when looking at a few videos for tips on the tank lift kit (I was having aftermarket seat fitment issues) I ran across this guy that said he didn't notice any wind buffeting difference and basically gifted the CDW's. about 3:15 is the reference czcams.com/video/yrhhQiM9Uws/video.html
@@RideAmerica Completely appropriate. The CDW's reduce buffeting for the vast majority of folks that use them. Every now and them (about 1 out of 100) we hear from someone that reports they did not experience a reduction in buffeting. There are several possible reasons- Installed incorrectly - not at the correct angle or upside down. Everyone is a different height, sitting differently on the seat (and different seats), different windshields, different sunglasses, different helmets, etc. All these variables will have an affect on buffeting. Unrealistic expectations. CDW's do not eliminate the air hitting the rider in the chest or helmet. They do reduce the amount of air. So with most folks it reduces buffeting, but does not eliminate it. Although we have hundreds of reports that it eliminates it, the reality is that it probably only reduces it to the point that it is not bothersome. The Fork Wings (Fangs) will reduce the air hitting the rider More than the CDW's. (The problem being they also reduce the amount of air cooling the engine). This can also play into expectations of how much the CDW's will reduce the air hitting the rider. CDW's primary purpose is redirecting a large amount of air to flow over the engine, cooling it. A very nice side benefit is the reduction (not elimination) of air hitting the rider that can cause buffeting. All the best as you find what works for you, in your situation.
Usually I feel dumber after watching this stuff but good info here. I shitcan the lowers entirely and use canvas strap on. My bike is a box stock Marelli bike, so it doesn't make the excess heat the lean calibrations and stroker cranks produce. It's comfortable to ride on 95 degree day with Lucas 50 installed.
Yeah, the carbed 88 TC's did not have as bad heat challenges as the later TC's and M8's. We have no significant experience with the MM EFI bikes. Good to hear yours is treating you well. Thanks for the comment! 👍
Grateful for the videos, wow I did not know that harleys can and will self destruct form the heat. I am gonna take the left thigh protector off tonight. Rather save my engine then worry about aesthetics. I will also be running synthetic
Great common sense approach to these issues! Thank you for taking the time to share your insights. Question: H-D sells a fan option that mounts low and behind the back cylinder. Does it do what they claim? It supposedly sucks out that dead air that gets trapped back there. Also, if it works, do the thigh deflectors make it work better? Thanks again!!
The purpose of that fan is to draw heat away from dead spot behind the rear cylinder so that it does not waft up and hit the passengers thighs. It is designed to do this when sitting still or moving slowly. There are mixed reviews on how well it does this. Some really feel a benefit from it, others not so much. If felt heat is the only concern (which is what this fan addresses) then I would leave both thigh protectors in place when using that fan. We have found that by reducing actual heat it will not only benefit the engine, but will also reduce felt heat.
I removed the right air deflector, so the air flows left to right across the rear of the engine, in the same direction as the Love Jugs are blowing. Removing the left deflector would be pushing air right to left against the Love Jugs
If that works for you, that is great. I like to remove the left side. The air flows with less impedance that way, it comes out behind the fans, and keeps the protector on the hotter side of the engine.
I have a 2020 FXBB with the 107, all I’ve done is some slip on exhaust and the trask vented transmission cover, my oil temp dipstick reads at about 200F when fully warmed up and riding. Only ever seen it dip just above 200F when sitting in traffic for long periods of time.
* High oil temperature in excess of 240F will break down petroleum oils and cause oxidation, which in turn forms deposits, varnish, and increases wear. * Low oil temperatures will cause formation of sludge, which can block oil passages. * Very low temperatures of -40F will make oil too thick to flow.Jan 1, 2009
Yep. That's what the manual recommends for warmer temps. Very few follow it, mostly because of bad info spread by dealerships. Glad you got it right for your bike. 👍
hmmm 70 wt in my pans and shovels. !!!! all summer long. Regardless only riding at night as its well over 100 degrees in the Phx area all day long. Got a couple of ironhead as well. Run at night when its only in the 80s or 90s. Electric start I shut em off at red lights. Kick only I just wait it out and pray! To hot in the day during summer.
I'm all for running cooler. I am considering getting the oil cooler next, now that I have the 636 heavy breather intake and the external breathers. I don't know if my tank would look good raised. I have a 2006 CVO Screamin Eagle Fat Boy and I like the style of it as it is. Some Harleys look really good with the tank raised, like Sportsters do. I like the looks of the engine more exposed. I just ordered the TTI's too and the 409 (red) plug wires.
We appreciate your business, and glad you are getting your bike cooled down. The way to tell if you would like Your bike with the tank lifted should take about 15 minutes- 1. With bike on kickstand, take the bolt out of the front of your tank. 2. Loosen (do not remove) the bolt(s) at the rear of your tank. 3. Turn your handlebars all the way to the left and raise the tank up your desired lift height to check for clearance issues. 4. Turn your handlebars all the way to the right and raise the tank up your desired lift height to check for clearance issues. Be careful when lifting your tank, you do not want to hit against something (forks, handlebars, trees, blinkers, etc.) when checking for clearance. When checking for clearance, you can also step back and see if you like the look.
I put one inch tank risers on my 2013 ultra and it looks good. A little less buffeting with the tank deflectors as well. Air flows underneath the tank. I like them!
WHY RIDING IN THE LEFT LANE? :) I USE RED LION 20-50 WT. ESPECIALLY FOR HEAT. MY CERT. HD MECH. SAID IT IS THE MOST QUIET 96 HE HAS HEARD. 65 K ON 2010 UTLTRA CLASSIC STAGE ONE AIR INDUCTION HD S E. , CAT REMOVED STAGE 3 HD SLIP ON'S SLASH DOWNS STAGE 4 BEING OPEN.
That is a section of road, during rush hour traffic, that has constant merging and exiting going on in the right two lanes. The left lane is the safest, and allows for the best escape routes, on that road at that time of day. Glad to hear you are happy with your ride! 👍
The fire in the engine will be a constant temperature. Cooling the oil and metal is the trick to longevity of the parts and performance. EPA and Eco Nuts think you need excessive heat to burn all the fuel cleaner. Cleaner higher quality fuels (not liquid corn or alcohol!) and proper ignition makes for cleaner emissions.
I added the HD Cool Flow Fan. Seems to be doing a great job. Certainly cooled my right leg down. Since I installed it, do you still recommend removing the left side thigh protector? Or is the fan taking care of grabbing the air?
Thanks for the comment, lot's of folks like Amsoil, and it is a good oil. Look at what your Harley manual says the operating temp should be (seen at the 1:10 mark in the video). 110*C...130*C is 266F, which is knocking on the door of accelerated engine wear and at the temp you're definitely not getting the most performance you can out of your Stage II.
@@DKCustomProducts 115hp and 135ft tq says different(which was the average of 5 runs)... there is no way an air cooled engine can run at 110*C unless you are dumping a ton of fuel in to cool the cylinders down, which also kills power and spark plugs. Also, 130*C is still far away from 350*C.
@@Scottish_Viking84 what you're saying isn't making much sense... 130°C is still far from 350°C?? That's comparing like 267°F to 662°F...where are you getting these numbers
Would it make sense to add a deflector/scoop to the right side on a softail, [2018 Sport Glide] just for more positive flow? Thanks for this series, I'm learning a great deal. Appreciated.
Thank you, glad you are finding the videos useful. An air scoop pushing more air over the engine is a good thing. Not sure where to put it on the right side...but creativity can usually find a way to get something done. I would think the left side, like HD used to do on some bikes, might be a little easier.
What year and model bike, and which HD Fan? Oil Cooler Fan? Cool Flow Fan? Here's a video you may find interesting/useful- czcams.com/video/T2aG284iCKc/video.html
This is great information! Is there a site that I can buy a electronic temperature gauge to mount on my handle bars so I can see my temperature every second while riding? 2016 Road King FLHR
M8 Touring Thigh protector? Mine did not come with either side.. I'm wondering why.. thanks for pointing out the with or without Cat removal temp differences, without testing, I was thinking this would make a big difference to engine temp.. I notice you didnt mention an/the add-0n oil cooler fan (like the HD SP-100 designed for the existing coolers) and was wondering if you all tested the positive effects of the small add-on cooler fans
That is indeed strange of no thigh protectors. I was not aware of any Touring Models (unless it is the Heritage that HD had in the Touring category for a year or two) that did not come with Thigh protectors. Yes, we have data on the difference between oil coolers with and without fans in this video- czcams.com/video/M9ta84TmROc/video.html Here is a list of the entire series on the subject of heat- czcams.com/play/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C.html
We have not done any testing on the RG updraft deflectors, so we cannot say. The umbrella deflector is an option. If you have it, it is between the fork tubes, directly under the bottom tree. Here is a link to an image of one. i5.walmartimages.com/asr/70b477f8-273e-4b34-9c76-60ceaa466d56_1.b7c846152d64c4a20d61898e4ff65343.jpeg?odnWidth=612&odnHeight=612&odnBg=ffffff
Can you run different viscosity oils for different times of the year? 20W-50 in the winter? SAE 50 or 60 in the summer? Here in Oklahoma, it’s often in the 40s and 50s in the fall and winter and easily in the 90s+ in the summer.
You should explain the difference between a full syn (blend) oil like syn 3 and a 100 % syn oil like Amsoil. My car and bike runs much better and cooler with Amsoil.
That sounds like a good idea. Though probably beaten to death, we may throw our hat in the ring. We've tried dozens of dino, blend and full, and always end back up with Redline.
Below is a link to what the manual says best practice is. www.dkcustomproducts.com/image/Links/OilChart09Sportster.jpg Looks like straight 50w is ideal for your temps.
ok , i believe your numbers so what should i do? i have 2018 roadking so is a dip stick temp gauge a good investment? let's face it, it's the extreme that matters, either cold weather or hot weather riding. with my shovel, i would put a cover on my oil cooler anytime below 50*.
On my 05, ,07, 09 , 11, 12, 14, & 19 I have never used a cover over my oil cooler, and I regularly ride in temps down into the 30's. BUT, I do not do short rides. If I did do short rides (less than 30 minutes) then I would use an oil cooler cover when it was colder, only on those shorter rides. Whether a dip stick oil temp gauge is worth it to you, only you can know. I like to know my temps, so it is worth it to me...plus, of course I need them for all our R&D.
Check out the video linked below, where we rode the the most western part of Canada. It was not as rough as some of the roads we traveled in the Yukon, but it was a far cry from interstate riding. lol - czcams.com/video/SNX9gaBQrxE/video.html Drilling holes would be better than nothing, but not as good an air flow as removing it.
Here's a video of a Touring Tank Lift with Deluxe option. czcams.com/video/f-wntxTmJyE/video.html The Deluxe option will lift the nose of the seat (the part of the seat that is on top of the tank) up 1/2". Most folks do not sit on the area of the seat, so there is not difference for them. If you do sit on the part of the seat that is on top of the tank, then you may or may not like that it is 1/2" higher. Thank you for looking at our parts. 👍
on my 14 Ultra I could almost touch the header heat guard without gloves... almost... my 2020 RG tho.... when going to Sturgis (bought it a week before) my ankle was burning hot... like to the point that if I didnt have highway pegs I wouldnt be able to ride. I cant have my foot on the floorboard for more than 5-10 seconds. I could wiggle my foot to the edge but I am so close to having my foot fall off the floorboards its dangerous (about an inch of my foot is actually on the floorboard). even after swapping the exhaust and no cat, its SLIGHTLY cooler, but feels like the heat is about 2 inches higher on my leg but still to much to handle for long. and this is at freeway speeds, rolling around town like in Sturgis... thats just painful and torture. I am HOPING when I redo the cam soon that the new tuner will remap it a slightly bit more richer than the SE tuner will allow. looking at having to go to heat taping the header as well which I dont want to HAVE to do. I think Harley really needs to get it through their heads that cooling is essential. my dual cool 14 ultra was perfect, warm but never hot.
Yep, some run hotter than others, but we've never seen one that does not run too hot out of the factory. Your cam and tune may help a little, but generally a cam makes things run hotter. The factory tune on M8's is already good (not great, but good) and the Dealership tune will add little to no cooling. I would check and make sure that the factory installed the correct tune. What we have found is that going step by step on the items listed in this video series is the best way to get the heat under control. Harley is not going to do it. The EPA wants/requires them to run them hotter. One things you can do to reduce felt heat on your ankle/leg is seen at this video...it is inexpensive and effective. czcams.com/video/Yj7PxZXGhk4/video.html
DKCustomProducts Have you experimented with using pipe wrap on a bagger ? I use it on my shovelhead but that runs about 50 degrees cooler than my twink. I don’t know how feasible it is on a bagger with the heat shields but thinking it would keep that hot air away from the engine.
I've wrapped the pipes on my Sporty, see photo's at this link- www.dkcustomproducts.com/titanium-exhaust-wrap-dei-reduced-heat-improved-performance-dk-dei-t35.htm It is very effective at cutting down the heat. I've never felt the need to on a bagger, however, we have many Customers that have on baggers and reported a significant drop in felt heat from the exhaust. There is definitely room behind the shield for a clean wrap job. There are a lot of folks that are against wrapping the pipes...because the wrap retains water and will cause rust/deterioration of the headers. Simple solution to that is to never park it with wet wrap/pipes. ie. don't wash it and then park it. Of course, when riding in the rain, or parked in the rain, can't be helped. I've had wrap on my Sporty for around 8 years and 30K+ miles and have zero issues with corrosion.
DKCustomProducts Thanks ! I’ll do it next time the pipes come off . I think while it will keep the heat off the rider it will also keep heat away from the motor.
What can I do to my 2018 Street Bob other than run synthetic oil? Is there anything in addition (other than remove cat) that I can do? Thanks for your time.
There are quite a few things you can do. There is a Written report linked below and also a series of videos linked below. What I would look at first are: -An air cleaner with an External Breather System. Not only will this cool it down it will help it run better and last longer. -A permanent Oil Filter. Runs cooler (less drag on the oil pump/engine), filters better, and is less expensive in the long run. -If you have free flow slip-ons, put some TTI's in there. More power, cooler running. www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm czcams.com/play/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C.html
Love Jug Mighty Mites and the Force Flow Fan are both good options. Here is a video on the subject- czcams.com/video/zmJmpdgBM3A/video.html They both do an excellent job. Mighty Mites have had serious supply chain & quality issues for the last 6 months. Force Flow have been fine on quality, and a little slow on inventory here and there. Here is a link to the Force Flow Fan - www.dkcustomproducts.com/jims-force-flow-fan-cools-twin-cam-engine.htm
I have a Road Glide Special from 2019. It doesn‘t come with the thigh-protectors, I bought a set of cheap ones from ebay, and put on only the left one, i don‘t like the look of these protectors, and on the left side it is less visible and it‘s not on they „ beautiful side“ of the bike,..... I think a left one is better than none,... Best regards from Germany
Yes, and a lot of folks think if their oil temp, measured at the tank, does not hit 100C or 212F, that the condensation will not "boil off". But the oil is much hotter inside the engine, after it squirts on the bottom of the pistons, than in the tank. So if one is fortunate to have done what is needed to get the temps down, say to 200F on the oil. It will still boil off the water.
The manual says a straight 60 weight oil temps of over 80° but here’s one for you, go to any Harley Davidson dealer and look on their shelf for “in stock” 60 weight oil ( that should be Harley branded mind you) and you won’t find any. Tell me why this is? These dealers should by all rights, have everything on the shelf that they recommend in their service manual.
@@jeffreyengle2762 I don't remember if there was HD branded 60 weight. They did have a selection of several brands of straight 60 weight. The reason I noticed is they had gallon jugs of the Redline 60 weight race oil.
@@DKCustomProducts and there in lies the problem, the aftermarket brands they can choose whether or not to carry. And in our small local dealership, They don’t have the shelf space to carry very much, so they don’t. Hence the reason why I run mobile1 20/50 Full synthetic year round. Also pulled the trigger on a new fan assisted oil cooler from Harley this week so that should help a little bit. I only wish that we could get an oil temp gauge on my road king.
@@jeffreyengle2762 Easy solution. For the last quite a few years I have been getting my oil delivered to my door (and for less than it would cost at a dealership) from Summit Racing or Amazon.
I've bought the secondary oil cooler, premium tank lift, fan assisted oil cooler, love jugs fans ( the big ones) Anne my motor engine temp according to my power vision still will get up to 350 degrees. I bought half the stuff from DK custom products because they said it would cool down my motor. But it's still getting hot so I don't know if that's just how it is or none of these products help
Erik, what bike do you have, year and model? Is it 350 ET or 350 CHT? If it is 350 ET, that is definitely too hot and something is awry. The engine should be hot, 200-230 hot, not 350 hot. Let us know here, or better, give a call or email with all the details...either way, we should be able to identify why it is running that hot.
@@DKCustomProducts I have 2017 road glide with m8. 124 s&s. Kit. I put the secondary oil cooler, fan assisted oil cooler , tank lift. I love in Arizona and the temp out here is about 110 degrees. Bike gradually would get ET to 350. Did the same before I put those things on. Oh also have love jugs.
@@erikmundell6056 Thanks for the info. Clearly 350F is not good, but with your 124 kit there could be far too many issues to go thru the process of elimination in youtube comments on why it is running so hot. The products you list all are putting more air flowing across the engine, as well as cooling the oil. It is impossible for additional air flow to not provide additional cooling. It is also impossible for additional oil cooling to not provide better cooling for the oil. The conclusion that they don't help defies logic, without those improvements you would be running even hotter. BUT, that does not change the fact that there is something(s) else going on generating that excessive heat. I would start with talking to S&S for known issues with their kit in regards to heat. Tune, oil pump, oil flow, exhaust (restriction or reversion). We'll be very interested in hearing about what you find that is causing so much heat. Feel free to call or email anytime.
great videos, I've done just about all of your suggestions for cooling. The most recent was adding the mighty mite fans. I noticed that when running they push a fair amount of air around the back of the rear cylinder and out the right side. Up to this point I had my right thigh protector installed and my left removed as you suggested. But now I am wondering if this is the best configuration with the mighty mites. It seems that at CRUISING SPEEDS the right protector is pushing air out the left side while my mighty mites are trying to push air out the right side (fighting against each other). It seems that putting my left protector on and removing the right side would provide better air flow around the rear cylinder (at any speeds) with my mighty mites running. I do realize this will make the right side even hotter, but I do very little idle time which is when I feel it, and I'm really focused on getting ET on my freewheeler lower when I'm cruising because that's when my ET is the hottest. I do realize that the fans have the biggest impact when stopped in traffic but I saw your video that did show a 7 or more degree drop even at 60 or 70mph with the fans so that's why I purchased them. Thoughts on swapping the deflectors or any other ideas? Thanks again, Ron
Hi Ron, I have had the same thoughts regarding the fans and the thigh protectors. I may be wrong, but this seems to be our experience...at a stop or slow speed the right side thigh protector does not act like a scoop pulling air in to fight the fan flow of air. But it does help protect from the heat being pushed by the fan flow. At speed the thigh protector scoops enough air that it cause the fan flow of air to do a U-Turn at the thigh protector, creating even more air that is flow behind the rear cylinder and out the left side.
Why does my 2007 Harley Davidson Ultra glide skake more than my 2005 Harley Davidson Ultra glide and boy does it get HOT. Only has 19000.miles on it.let me know your thoughts.
Thanks for your comment and questions. Why it shakes more? Do not know, could be a whole variety of reasons. Your 2005 was probably an 88 and your 2007 is probably a 96. 2007 was actually the hottest model year...they need more help than any other year in cooling down. This series is more needed for that year than any other.
Yes, all M8's face a heat challenge from the factory. Here is a link to a report that you may find useful/interesting- www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm If you prefer videos, we go over the information in the above report in this video series- czcams.com/play/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C.html
Harley Davidson is "saying" it's normal, those high temperatures. I can tell you any air cooled aircraft engine, even running full synthetic, at least on my Rotax 912 IS motor air and water cooled engine, that 230F is where the warning temp starts, and 240F is where you're in the red and overheating the motor oil. Keep heating up the oil to 256F and Rotax demands a complete engine tear down and inspection of all bores, bearings, valves, EVERYTHING because the motor basically has lost it's air worthiness. Nothing has changed.... ask an Oil Tribologist what the limits are on oil temperatures... Much beyond 250F, you "cook" all the safety additive packages right out of the motor oil, and that's just asking for an engine failure of engine components inside being starved of the lubrication properties they need.
Engine oil lives a tough life. It needs to be a good quality product, it helps gaskets seal, it suspends dirt and wear, it lubricates the engine and transfers the heat away from the engine
In my opinion, step one to cooling your bike.... get it on the open road and RIDE! if you just ride "city" over short distances, that bike will never get cool due to lack of air stage 1 your bike (open up that air cleaner and pipes) and get some wind on it...
So it comes out the factory runnin hot? I’m not an expert but it seems that Harley has a lot of issues. I’m considering getting a motorcycle for my 45 mi. commute to work and wanted a road glide but not sure I’d feel comfortable putting that many miles on it and expecting it to be reliable day in and day out.
The baggers do run hot from the factory. They will keep running...just gradually lose power as they go out of tolerance...IF you don't do a few things to cool it down. Much depends on your ambient temps, how you ride, and what your performance expectations are. 25k miles a year is about 7 times more than the average Harley owner rides in a year.
@@DKCustomProducts yeh. Not 300 degrees as said. My shovel ran at 212 degrees by the cheap dip stick. Solid lifters as was done 20+ years ago. It rattled like a can of marbles. I use penrite and Australian oil with no friction modifiers at the time one modified oil was around. VW had the same problem of bores glazing but. I rang penrite they said at the time the oil can handle 100c but don’t know for how long. That was in 85. So I’ve always used an oil cooler from then. Even evo and twin cam now still oil cooler. Yesterday my oil went to 130F for a wile with an oil cooler. And after what you said about 20/50 oil I’ll use straight 50. Thanks from Australia
@@DKCustomProducts honestly I can see where that would make sense on a bike without full lowers, your tri-glide however, not sure it would matter much… those lowers block a lot of air flow. That’s why Harley tells me to take off my soft lowers at temps over 50 degrees.
@@jeffreyengle2762 Yes, I understand your reasoning. Sometimes things are counter-intuitive, that is why we test everything. It does make a difference, even on the Tri Glide. Also on the 2 wheel bikes that have lowers, and also on the Touring models that do Not have lowers.
As shown in the video at the 2:42 mark, if you ride in temps below 60 degrees F, then running straight 50 is not recommended. This is because at those lower temps the oil is too thick and won't lubricate well on start up. If you always ride in temps above 60, then it is fine.
Jagg Oil Coolers are great at cooling the oil. We are their largest Dealer...and the only one that marries our parts with theirs for fitment on a Twin-Cooled bike. www.dkcustomproducts.com/oil-coolers-c134.htm
@@DKCustomProducts Im running a S&S 95 inch kit on a 2000 Softail Standard. Its got more compression, hotter gear drive cams, a Mikuni carb, and a Thunderheader. I was living in South Texas where 110 at 2pm is common, and wanted to dump the heat from the extra power. I also rum Mobile 1 V-Twin oil
Harley should not release bikes that can’t maintain a proper temperature. If it needs an oil cooler, raised fuel tank, it should come from the factory that way. Just like their factory suspension ( especially baggers ) that suck. They charge a premium price so we should expect to get a superior product.
I agree with you, but it just does not happen, for a variety of reasons. One of them is talked about in this video- czcams.com/video/rWOdQOtDv6A/video.html
@@DKCustomProducts for sure. I'm a Harley guy and I'd never own any other bike at this point in my life but it is frustrating dealing with what seems like constant issues with my Milwaukee 8.
Please tell me ...are you saying thigh protector? I am 67 yrs and what I think u are referring to is what I have always called a side cover...it is totally ridiculous to think we have to go to these extremes to keep from ruining our bikes...This will definitely be the last Harley I own...I never had a problem with my 06 Heritage or my 08 Dyna...
Thigh protector, NOT side cover. Look at the 5:07 mark in the video. There is a piece of black plastic in front of the side cover, and behind the rear cylinder, that is called a thigh protector.
This has been a good series to listen to. I appreciate your perspective on this so thank you for taking the time to make them. Love the torque inserts by the way and run them on multiple bikes!!
Thanks man. We're just getting into the good stuff on this series. Glad you are liking it. Yeah, the TTI's are a great bang for the buck, we appreciate your business.
after 118 years of making mc , you would think the co. would have it down as far as eng heat goes. we the consumer have to buy tuning mods. coolers, better exhaust, air intakes, deflectors, a better oil pump, special hi-end oil, and all kinds of eng mods just to get them running decent. i sold my bike and brought a mule, the bastard goes everywhere in all weather. my biggest expense was a saddle & blanket. no ins cost or regerstration fees. if i get hungry i can bbq him and eat!
There ya go! :)
Yep, it is unfortunate all the regs put on HD by the EPA....they have to run hot, which is not good.
It also does not help that HD being public answers to their shareholders for short term profit.
If Harley-Davidson engineered all of the "flaws" out of their motorcycles all the aftermarket solutions would be unnecessary and you guys, and many others, would be out of business! Keep up the good work!
Thanks man!
Hi I'm a new Harley owner, was wondering why my bagger was not wearing its left upper heat shield , spent 45 mins putting new clamps on it and refitting it, now I'll be taking it off again.! Looking forward to a full service and inspection in my garage in the next few weeks, your information is priceless to a guy like myself, thanks for your time and best wishes from across the pond.
Congrats on your new to you ride!!!
Man, thank you for the kind words. Really good to hear you are finding the videos useful.
Enjoy your ride!
I have already done a lot of the mods in this series. 2014 FLHTP stage 1, catless head pipe, external breather, 20-50 Mobil 1, removed left side shield. On a recent 100 degree two up ride my Powervision ET was at 265 which didn't seem too bad. Looking to get an oil temp dipstick and maybe your filter relocation kit and straight 50w for my next oil change. I remember in the 70's and 80's everyone ran 50 or 60W.
Hey Greg, yeah, that temp is not bad for a hot 100* day and some aggressive riding...it would be preferable for it to top out around 250, but it is MUCH better than the temps you would be getting in stock condition.
I used to run 70 weight . In the 1970s.
Tomorrow is cleaning day and I'm removing the left thigh protector. I'm from Las Vegas and it's starting to heat up. today it's 96. What you said makes sense so heres to cooling the Hog down... Back in the late 70's I used 60W in the summer and 50 in the winter. Never had a problem with my 76 or 71 (in that order) Shovelheads...
👍
Really enjoying the content / info in these videos guys as I've owned my Street Glide for a bit over 5 years now and (regrettably) never really payed too much attention to operating temperatures and things like that until this year.
After a few hotter than normal riding days (for Australia anyway); I started to take note / keep a record of oil temperatures and have been looking into ways to help keep those temperatures them as low as possible.
This series has really helped by giving me a starting point and couple of things to try out, cheers!
Good to read you're enjoying. Lot's more to come. I know you guys are in winter down you're way...summer is coming!
@@DKCustomProducts sure is, had a frosty ride to work the other day but yeah the warmer weather is coming; along with a few goodies for the bike to help with the heat 🤙
Thanks for your time and expertise shared with us all, Happy Thanksgiving to all of you at DK Customs!
Thank you! Same to you! 👍😎👍
Im in Phx Az . its 115 degrees in the afternoon all summer. Simply put dont ride in this heat. Ride at night or early morning. Your rear cylinder will thank you.
Yep, areas of the country are really hot. Hottest we rode thru was 117* and it was pretty brutal on Mary. Engine ran fine though, did not get too hot with the help we've given it.
Damn your trike sounds like a helicopter, I love it.
Thank you, this series has been extremely helpful and very informative.
Good to read you're enjoying it. Have 3 more parts shot that will be edited and posted over the next week.
When I had my sportster I put the fp3 tuner on it, It ran much better and cooler. I just purchased a 2016 dyna switchback I plan getting a fp3 for this as well. I've been using Lucas full synthetic an am happy with it. Enjoy your channel , stay safe!
Thank you, glad you're enjoying. Wishing you many miles of smiles on your new to you bike!
Great video as always. Bummed out to hear about fork deflectors. I just purchased a road king and the updraft is ridiculous. There's a difference between enjoying the wind and getting beat up by the wind.
Yeah, when we discovered how much heat they add in warm weather it was a real bummer for me too...cause they are really good at reducing buffeting. That is when we sat down and said there must be a way to reduce buffeting AND cool the engine instead of heat it up. After a lot of experimenting we came up with the CDW's that you can see at this link- www.dkcustomproducts.com/cooling-deflector-wings-for-touring-trike-models-dk-cdw-trg.htm
@@DKCustomProducts Thanks. I have a few of your products now - tank lift and oil catch can for air cleaner - not sure I would like these on the road king. I think they blend better with lower fairings. What I can't figure out is why the road glide (which I have) wind deflector kit won't work for the road king. The 2 bikes are in different locations so I can't take mine off the RG and try it on the RK but it does not show as compatible for the RK. It just snaps on to the engine guard and the tank bolt mount. Although I am not sure it would look any better than your CDWs
@@RideAmerica Appreciate the business, and glad you're enjoying those. Yeah, I'm thinking the RG will fit, but will stick up a lot. Look at the photo of the orange freewheeler at the links below...that is what your Road King would look like with the CDW's...they are pretty stealth. They don't stick out much further than the width of the forks. www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/d/cdw_nl_2.jpg
www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/d/cdw_nl_1.jpg
Oh, here's a pic of some on a Road King...you have to really look to even see them.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/d/cdw_2_anthony-edited.jpg
@@DKCustomProducts I'll give a closer look. I hope this isn't inappropriate but when looking at a few videos for tips on the tank lift kit (I was having aftermarket seat fitment issues) I ran across this guy that said he didn't notice any wind buffeting difference and basically gifted the CDW's. about 3:15 is the reference
czcams.com/video/yrhhQiM9Uws/video.html
@@RideAmerica Completely appropriate. The CDW's reduce buffeting for the vast majority of folks that use them. Every now and them (about 1 out of 100) we hear from someone that reports they did not experience a reduction in buffeting. There are several possible reasons-
Installed incorrectly - not at the correct angle or upside down.
Everyone is a different height, sitting differently on the seat (and different seats), different windshields, different sunglasses, different helmets, etc. All these variables will have an affect on buffeting.
Unrealistic expectations. CDW's do not eliminate the air hitting the rider in the chest or helmet. They do reduce the amount of air. So with most folks it reduces buffeting, but does not eliminate it. Although we have hundreds of reports that it eliminates it, the reality is that it probably only reduces it to the point that it is not bothersome.
The Fork Wings (Fangs) will reduce the air hitting the rider More than the CDW's. (The problem being they also reduce the amount of air cooling the engine). This can also play into expectations of how much the CDW's will reduce the air hitting the rider.
CDW's primary purpose is redirecting a large amount of air to flow over the engine, cooling it. A very nice side benefit is the reduction (not elimination) of air hitting the rider that can cause buffeting.
All the best as you find what works for you, in your situation.
I’m learning so much
👍😎👍
Thank you for the suggestions.
You're welcome, more to come.
I have a call and an email into you guys. I need info before placing a multiple part order.
Usually I feel dumber after watching this stuff but good info here. I shitcan the lowers entirely and use canvas strap on. My bike is a box stock Marelli bike, so it doesn't make the excess heat the lean calibrations and stroker cranks produce. It's comfortable to ride on 95 degree day with Lucas 50 installed.
Yeah, the carbed 88 TC's did not have as bad heat challenges as the later TC's and M8's. We have no significant experience with the MM EFI bikes. Good to hear yours is treating you well.
Thanks for the comment! 👍
Plus more power!
True that.
I put on a set of love jugs on my 13 e glide they seem to help a lot.
Yes, fans can really drop the temps!
Thanks for the information and good video
Thanks! Glad you're finding it useful.
Grateful for the videos, wow I did not know that harleys can and will self destruct form the heat. I am gonna take the left thigh protector off tonight. Rather save my engine then worry about aesthetics. I will also be running synthetic
Glad you're enjoying the videos.
Your bike will be much happier!
I just found your channel. Awesome info, thank you
Great common sense approach to these issues! Thank you for taking the time to share your insights. Question: H-D sells a fan option that mounts low and behind the back cylinder. Does it do what they claim? It supposedly sucks out that dead air that gets trapped back there. Also, if it works, do the thigh deflectors make it work better? Thanks again!!
The purpose of that fan is to draw heat away from dead spot behind the rear cylinder so that it does not waft up and hit the passengers thighs. It is designed to do this when sitting still or moving slowly. There are mixed reviews on how well it does this. Some really feel a benefit from it, others not so much. If felt heat is the only concern (which is what this fan addresses) then I would leave both thigh protectors in place when using that fan. We have found that by reducing actual heat it will not only benefit the engine, but will also reduce felt heat.
I removed the right air deflector, so the air flows left to right across the rear of the engine, in the same direction as the Love Jugs are blowing. Removing the left deflector would be pushing air right to left against the Love Jugs
If that works for you, that is great.
I like to remove the left side. The air flows with less impedance that way, it comes out behind the fans, and keeps the protector on the hotter side of the engine.
I have a 2020 FXBB with the 107, all I’ve done is some slip on exhaust and the trask vented transmission cover, my oil temp dipstick reads at about 200F when fully warmed up and riding. Only ever seen it dip just above 200F when sitting in traffic for long periods of time.
That is great!
Tks. Great stuff. Appreciate 👍🏾
Thanks for the comment, glad you found it useful. 👍
* High oil temperature in excess of 240F will break down petroleum oils and cause oxidation, which in turn forms deposits, varnish, and increases wear. * Low oil temperatures will cause formation of sludge, which can block oil passages. * Very low temperatures of -40F will make oil too thick to flow.Jan 1, 2009
Love my 18 street bob got rid of of that USB box in front run great 👍
Great to hear you're enjoying your ride!
I have 2 sportsters to 2013 72 model and 2014 48 model just ordered a tank lift and have ordered the Location kit
Oops 😬 Forgot I have a 2005 softail Deluxe
@@conardwilliamson2366 Thank you. Appreciate your business. I believe you will enjoy those mods.
@@conardwilliamson2366 lol, it is nice to have choices!
Really good information.
Hooah.
Thanks, glad you're liking it. 👍
I have found that straight 60w oil has really cooled my bike down in summer months.
Yep. That's what the manual recommends for warmer temps. Very few follow it, mostly because of bad info spread by dealerships. Glad you got it right for your bike. 👍
Put some 60 in mine. it loves it
hmmm 70 wt in my pans and shovels. !!!! all summer long. Regardless only riding at night as its well over 100 degrees in the Phx area all day long. Got a couple of ironhead as well. Run at night when its only in the 80s or 90s. Electric start I shut em off at red lights. Kick only I just wait it out and pray! To hot in the day during summer.
I'm all for running cooler. I am considering getting the oil cooler next, now that I have the 636 heavy breather intake and the external breathers. I don't know if my tank would look good raised. I have a 2006 CVO Screamin Eagle Fat Boy and I like the style of it as it is. Some Harleys look really good with the tank raised, like Sportsters do. I like the looks of the engine more exposed. I just ordered the TTI's too and the 409 (red) plug wires.
We appreciate your business, and glad you are getting your bike cooled down.
The way to tell if you would like Your bike with the tank lifted should take about 15 minutes-
1. With bike on kickstand, take the bolt out of the front of your tank.
2. Loosen (do not remove) the bolt(s) at the rear of your tank.
3. Turn your handlebars all the way to the left and raise the tank up your desired lift height to check for clearance issues.
4. Turn your handlebars all the way to the right and raise the tank up your desired lift height to check for clearance issues.
Be careful when lifting your tank, you do not want to hit against something (forks, handlebars, trees, blinkers, etc.) when checking for clearance.
When checking for clearance, you can also step back and see if you like the look.
I put one inch tank risers on my 2013 ultra and it looks good. A little less buffeting with the tank deflectors as well. Air flows underneath the tank.
I like them!
WHY RIDING IN THE LEFT LANE? :) I USE RED LION 20-50 WT. ESPECIALLY FOR HEAT. MY CERT. HD MECH. SAID IT IS THE MOST QUIET 96 HE HAS HEARD. 65 K ON 2010 UTLTRA CLASSIC STAGE ONE AIR INDUCTION HD S E. , CAT REMOVED STAGE 3 HD SLIP ON'S SLASH DOWNS STAGE 4 BEING OPEN.
That is a section of road, during rush hour traffic, that has constant merging and exiting going on in the right two lanes. The left lane is the safest, and allows for the best escape routes, on that road at that time of day.
Glad to hear you are happy with your ride! 👍
The fire in the engine will be a constant temperature. Cooling the oil and metal is the trick to longevity of the parts and performance. EPA and Eco Nuts think you need excessive heat to burn all the fuel cleaner. Cleaner higher quality fuels (not liquid corn or alcohol!) and proper ignition makes for cleaner emissions.
So true, there are better ways to use less resources than many of the ridiculous EPA requirements. 👍
Great video and info.
Thanks, good to read you found it useful. 👍
some good info
Thanks man, glad you're enjoying.
I added the HD Cool Flow Fan. Seems to be doing a great job. Certainly cooled my right leg down. Since I installed it, do you still recommend removing the left side thigh protector? Or is the fan taking care of grabbing the air?
If you remove the left side thigh protector it will be even cooler. If you don't like it, you can always put it back on.
@@DKCustomProducts These videos do not get old. Thanks
@@funhumanusa Thanks for the comment, good to hear you are liking them.
I use AMSoil in my 114 and with stage 2 runs at 130*C.
Thanks for the comment, lot's of folks like Amsoil, and it is a good oil. Look at what your Harley manual says the operating temp should be (seen at the 1:10 mark in the video). 110*C...130*C is 266F, which is knocking on the door of accelerated engine wear and at the temp you're definitely not getting the most performance you can out of your Stage II.
@@DKCustomProducts 115hp and 135ft tq says different(which was the average of 5 runs)... there is no way an air cooled engine can run at 110*C unless you are dumping a ton of fuel in to cool the cylinders down, which also kills power and spark plugs. Also, 130*C is still far away from 350*C.
@@Scottish_Viking84 what you're saying isn't making much sense... 130°C is still far from 350°C?? That's comparing like 267°F to 662°F...where are you getting these numbers
@@PkwyDrive13 my FP3 reads the engine temperature sensor, and 350*C is when the aluminum begins to lose its strength.
@@Scottish_Viking84 that's 350F, I'm pretty sure. not Celsius
Would it make sense to add a deflector/scoop to the right side on a softail, [2018 Sport Glide] just for more positive flow? Thanks for this series, I'm learning a great deal. Appreciated.
Thank you, glad you are finding the videos useful.
An air scoop pushing more air over the engine is a good thing. Not sure where to put it on the right side...but creativity can usually find a way to get something done.
I would think the left side, like HD used to do on some bikes, might be a little easier.
What about adding the Harley cooling fans?
What year and model bike, and which HD Fan?
Oil Cooler Fan?
Cool Flow Fan?
Here's a video you may find interesting/useful- czcams.com/video/T2aG284iCKc/video.html
1st add aft frame cooling fins, 2nd punch out the CAT, 3rd synthetic oil , 4th small oil cooler, 5th .....
I hope you are seeing the cooling benefits from those changes!!! Thanks for commenting! MB
This is great information! Is there a site that I can buy a electronic temperature gauge to mount on my handle bars so I can see my temperature every second while riding?
2016 Road King FLHR
This is what I use- www.dkcustomproducts.com/dynojet-power-vision-flash-tuner-w-auto-tune-dk-pv-cmp-pkg.htm
Hi I was wondering what oil should be used in hot climate 32-35 degree on average almost all year long? Thank you
You may find this video helpful in choosing oil for your bike czcams.com/video/bNHgNThrqQo/video.html . Thank you for your comment!
M8 Touring Thigh protector? Mine did not come with either side.. I'm wondering why.. thanks for pointing out the with or without Cat removal temp differences, without testing, I was thinking this would make a big difference to engine temp.. I notice you didnt mention an/the add-0n oil cooler fan (like the HD SP-100 designed for the existing coolers) and was wondering if you all tested the positive effects of the small add-on cooler fans
That is indeed strange of no thigh protectors. I was not aware of any Touring Models (unless it is the Heritage that HD had in the Touring category for a year or two) that did not come with Thigh protectors.
Yes, we have data on the difference between oil coolers with and without fans in this video- czcams.com/video/M9ta84TmROc/video.html
Here is a list of the entire series on the subject of heat- czcams.com/play/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C.html
For a road glide I assume removing the updraft deflectors help? Can’t find what an umbrella deflector is. Thanks
We have not done any testing on the RG updraft deflectors, so we cannot say.
The umbrella deflector is an option. If you have it, it is between the fork tubes, directly under the bottom tree. Here is a link to an image of one. i5.walmartimages.com/asr/70b477f8-273e-4b34-9c76-60ceaa466d56_1.b7c846152d64c4a20d61898e4ff65343.jpeg?odnWidth=612&odnHeight=612&odnBg=ffffff
Can you run different viscosity oils for different times of the year? 20W-50 in the winter? SAE 50 or 60 in the summer? Here in Oklahoma, it’s often in the 40s and 50s in the fall and winter and easily in the 90s+ in the summer.
Absolutely! That is the best plan.
Here is a link from the HD manual on the subject- www.dkcustomproducts.com/image/Links/Oil%20Weight.jpg
@@DKCustomProducts Thank you
You should explain the difference between a full syn (blend) oil like syn 3 and a 100 % syn oil like Amsoil. My car and bike runs much better and cooler with Amsoil.
That sounds like a good idea. Though probably beaten to death, we may throw our hat in the ring. We've tried dozens of dino, blend and full, and always end back up with Redline.
@@DKCustomProducts my point to educate people of the difference between the word full synthetic and the word 100% synthetic. Not many know this.
Enjoy the wind. That’s what it’s all about.
Am from a place where the minimum ambient temperature is 70 degrees. Should I run 50w or 60w? And for the whole year?
Below is a link to what the manual says best practice is.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/image/Links/OilChart09Sportster.jpg
Looks like straight 50w is ideal for your temps.
ok , i believe your numbers so what should i do? i have 2018 roadking so is a dip stick temp gauge a good investment? let's face it, it's the extreme that matters, either cold weather or hot weather riding. with my shovel, i would put a cover on my oil cooler anytime below 50*.
On my 05, ,07, 09 , 11, 12, 14, & 19 I have never used a cover over my oil cooler, and I regularly ride in temps down into the 30's. BUT, I do not do short rides. If I did do short rides (less than 30 minutes) then I would use an oil cooler cover when it was colder, only on those shorter rides.
Whether a dip stick oil temp gauge is worth it to you, only you can know. I like to know my temps, so it is worth it to me...plus, of course I need them for all our R&D.
@@DKCustomProducts Can't find a dip stick oil temp gauge for my 2017 Tri-Glide. Where did you get yours?
How do you feel about using Lucas Heavy Duty stabilizer? I use it in my Jeep and it definitely quiets and smooths the engine.
I am not familiar with the Heavy Duty Stabilizer. If it thickens up the oil I would not use it in temps below 60F.
i didn't know we could off road our trikes, kidding.
Could holes be drilled in the left thigh protector instead of removing?.
Check out the video linked below, where we rode the the most western part of Canada. It was not as rough as some of the roads we traveled in the Yukon, but it was a far cry from interstate riding. lol - czcams.com/video/SNX9gaBQrxE/video.html
Drilling holes would be better than nothing, but not as good an air flow as removing it.
Looking for a video on the tank lift with deluxe package for the 2018 street glide. How will the deluxe package effect my seat position?
Here's a video of a Touring Tank Lift with Deluxe option.
czcams.com/video/f-wntxTmJyE/video.html
The Deluxe option will lift the nose of the seat (the part of the seat that is on top of the tank) up 1/2". Most folks do not sit on the area of the seat, so there is not difference for them. If you do sit on the part of the seat that is on top of the tank, then you may or may not like that it is 1/2" higher.
Thank you for looking at our parts. 👍
on my 14 Ultra I could almost touch the header heat guard without gloves... almost... my 2020 RG tho.... when going to Sturgis (bought it a week before) my ankle was burning hot... like to the point that if I didnt have highway pegs I wouldnt be able to ride. I cant have my foot on the floorboard for more than 5-10 seconds. I could wiggle my foot to the edge but I am so close to having my foot fall off the floorboards its dangerous (about an inch of my foot is actually on the floorboard). even after swapping the exhaust and no cat, its SLIGHTLY cooler, but feels like the heat is about 2 inches higher on my leg but still to much to handle for long. and this is at freeway speeds, rolling around town like in Sturgis... thats just painful and torture.
I am HOPING when I redo the cam soon that the new tuner will remap it a slightly bit more richer than the SE tuner will allow. looking at having to go to heat taping the header as well which I dont want to HAVE to do. I think Harley really needs to get it through their heads that cooling is essential. my dual cool 14 ultra was perfect, warm but never hot.
Yep, some run hotter than others, but we've never seen one that does not run too hot out of the factory.
Your cam and tune may help a little, but generally a cam makes things run hotter. The factory tune on M8's is already good (not great, but good) and the Dealership tune will add little to no cooling.
I would check and make sure that the factory installed the correct tune.
What we have found is that going step by step on the items listed in this video series is the best way to get the heat under control.
Harley is not going to do it. The EPA wants/requires them to run them hotter.
One things you can do to reduce felt heat on your ankle/leg is seen at this video...it is inexpensive and effective.
czcams.com/video/Yj7PxZXGhk4/video.html
DKCustomProducts
Have you experimented with using pipe wrap on a bagger ? I use it on my shovelhead but that runs about 50 degrees cooler than my twink.
I don’t know how feasible it is on a bagger with the heat shields but thinking it would keep that hot air away from the engine.
I've wrapped the pipes on my Sporty, see photo's at this link- www.dkcustomproducts.com/titanium-exhaust-wrap-dei-reduced-heat-improved-performance-dk-dei-t35.htm
It is very effective at cutting down the heat. I've never felt the need to on a bagger, however, we have many Customers that have on baggers and reported a significant drop in felt heat from the exhaust. There is definitely room behind the shield for a clean wrap job.
There are a lot of folks that are against wrapping the pipes...because the wrap retains water and will cause rust/deterioration of the headers. Simple solution to that is to never park it with wet wrap/pipes. ie. don't wash it and then park it. Of course, when riding in the rain, or parked in the rain, can't be helped. I've had wrap on my Sporty for around 8 years and 30K+ miles and have zero issues with corrosion.
DKCustomProducts
Thanks ! I’ll do it next time the pipes come off . I think while it will keep the heat off the rider it will also keep heat away from the motor.
What can I do to my 2018 Street Bob other than run synthetic oil? Is there anything in addition (other than remove cat) that I can do? Thanks for your time.
There are quite a few things you can do. There is a Written report linked below and also a series of videos linked below.
What I would look at first are:
-An air cleaner with an External Breather System. Not only will this cool it down it will help it run better and last longer.
-A permanent Oil Filter. Runs cooler (less drag on the oil pump/engine), filters better, and is less expensive in the long run.
-If you have free flow slip-ons, put some TTI's in there. More power, cooler running.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm
czcams.com/play/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C.html
how about love jugs didn't hear you guys talk about them?
Love Jug Mighty Mites and the Force Flow Fan are both good options. Here is a video on the subject- czcams.com/video/zmJmpdgBM3A/video.html
They both do an excellent job. Mighty Mites have had serious supply chain & quality issues for the last 6 months. Force Flow have been fine on quality, and a little slow on inventory here and there. Here is a link to the Force Flow Fan - www.dkcustomproducts.com/jims-force-flow-fan-cools-twin-cam-engine.htm
I have a Road Glide Special from 2019. It doesn‘t come with the thigh-protectors,
I bought a set of cheap ones from ebay, and put on only the left one, i don‘t like the look of these protectors, and on the left side it is less visible and it‘s not on they „ beautiful side“ of the bike,.....
I think a left one is better than none,...
Best regards from Germany
Thanks for the comment. Having only one will help keep the rear cylinder cooler. 👍
condensation (water) boiils at 100c so you dont need or want your oil getting much hotter than that
Yes, and a lot of folks think if their oil temp, measured at the tank, does not hit 100C or 212F, that the condensation will not "boil off". But the oil is much hotter inside the engine, after it squirts on the bottom of the pistons, than in the tank.
So if one is fortunate to have done what is needed to get the temps down, say to 200F on the oil. It will still boil off the water.
The manual says a straight 60 weight oil temps of over 80° but here’s one for you, go to any Harley Davidson dealer and look on their shelf for “in stock” 60 weight oil ( that should be Harley branded mind you) and you won’t find any. Tell me why this is? These dealers should by all rights, have everything on the shelf that they recommend in their service manual.
Yes, the should, and many do, and many don't.
Last time I was at one of our local dealerships they did have straight 60 weight.
@@DKCustomProducts was it Harley branded 60 weight?
@@jeffreyengle2762 I don't remember if there was HD branded 60 weight. They did have a selection of several brands of straight 60 weight.
The reason I noticed is they had gallon jugs of the Redline 60 weight race oil.
@@DKCustomProducts and there in lies the problem, the aftermarket brands they can choose whether or not to carry. And in our small local dealership, They don’t have the shelf space to carry very much, so they don’t. Hence the reason why I run mobile1 20/50 Full synthetic year round. Also pulled the trigger on a new fan assisted oil cooler from Harley this week so that should help a little bit. I only wish that we could get an oil temp gauge on my road king.
@@jeffreyengle2762 Easy solution. For the last quite a few years I have been getting my oil delivered to my door (and for less than it would cost at a dealership) from Summit Racing or Amazon.
I've bought the secondary oil cooler, premium tank lift, fan assisted oil cooler, love jugs fans ( the big ones) Anne my motor engine temp according to my power vision still will get up to 350 degrees. I bought half the stuff from DK custom products because they said it would cool down my motor. But it's still getting hot so I don't know if that's just how it is or none of these products help
Erik, what bike do you have, year and model? Is it 350 ET or 350 CHT? If it is 350 ET, that is definitely too hot and something is awry. The engine should be hot, 200-230 hot, not 350 hot. Let us know here, or better, give a call or email with all the details...either way, we should be able to identify why it is running that hot.
@@DKCustomProducts I have 2017 road glide with m8. 124 s&s. Kit. I put the secondary oil cooler, fan assisted oil cooler , tank lift. I love in Arizona and the temp out here is about 110 degrees. Bike gradually would get ET to 350. Did the same before I put those things on. Oh also have love jugs.
@@erikmundell6056 Thanks for the info. Clearly 350F is not good, but with your 124 kit there could be far too many issues to go thru the process of elimination in youtube comments on why it is running so hot.
The products you list all are putting more air flowing across the engine, as well as cooling the oil. It is impossible for additional air flow to not provide additional cooling. It is also impossible for additional oil cooling to not provide better cooling for the oil. The conclusion that they don't help defies logic, without those improvements you would be running even hotter.
BUT, that does not change the fact that there is something(s) else going on generating that excessive heat. I would start with talking to S&S for known issues with their kit in regards to heat. Tune, oil pump, oil flow, exhaust (restriction or reversion). We'll be very interested in hearing about what you find that is causing so much heat. Feel free to call or email anytime.
great videos, I've done just about all of your suggestions for cooling. The most recent was adding the mighty mite fans. I noticed that when running they push a fair amount of air around the back of the rear cylinder and out the right side. Up to this point I had my right thigh protector installed and my left removed as you suggested. But now I am wondering if this is the best configuration with the mighty mites. It seems that at CRUISING SPEEDS the right protector is pushing air out the left side while my mighty mites are trying to push air out the right side (fighting against each other). It seems that putting my left protector on and removing the right side would provide better air flow around the rear cylinder (at any speeds) with my mighty mites running. I do realize this will make the right side even hotter, but I do very little idle time which is when I feel it, and I'm really focused on getting ET on my freewheeler lower when I'm cruising because that's when my ET is the hottest. I do realize that the fans have the biggest impact when stopped in traffic but I saw your video that did show a 7 or more degree drop even at 60 or 70mph with the fans so that's why I purchased them. Thoughts on swapping the deflectors or any other ideas? Thanks again, Ron
Hi Ron, I have had the same thoughts regarding the fans and the thigh protectors. I may be wrong, but this seems to be our experience...at a stop or slow speed the right side thigh protector does not act like a scoop pulling air in to fight the fan flow of air. But it does help protect from the heat being pushed by the fan flow.
At speed the thigh protector scoops enough air that it cause the fan flow of air to do a U-Turn at the thigh protector, creating even more air that is flow behind the rear cylinder and out the left side.
Why does my 2007 Harley Davidson Ultra glide skake more than my 2005 Harley Davidson Ultra glide and boy does it get HOT. Only has 19000.miles on it.let me know your thoughts.
Thanks for your comment and questions. Why it shakes more? Do not know, could be a whole variety of reasons. Your 2005 was probably an 88 and your 2007 is probably a 96. 2007 was actually the hottest model year...they need more help than any other year in cooling down. This series is more needed for that year than any other.
Does the 2020 heritage have this issue since it's also a M8?
Yes, all M8's face a heat challenge from the factory.
Here is a link to a report that you may find useful/interesting-
www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm
If you prefer videos, we go over the information in the above report in this video series-
czcams.com/play/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C.html
Harley Davidson is "saying" it's normal, those high temperatures. I can tell you any air cooled aircraft engine, even running full synthetic, at least on my Rotax 912 IS motor air and water cooled engine, that 230F is where the warning temp starts, and 240F is where you're in the red and overheating the motor oil. Keep heating up the oil to 256F and Rotax demands a complete engine tear down and inspection of all bores, bearings, valves, EVERYTHING because the motor basically has lost it's air worthiness. Nothing has changed.... ask an Oil Tribologist what the limits are on oil temperatures... Much beyond 250F, you "cook" all the safety additive packages right out of the motor oil, and that's just asking for an engine failure of engine components inside being starved of the lubrication properties they need.
Thank you for your post and information.
Much appreciated. 👍😎👍
Engine oil lives a tough life. It needs to be a good quality product, it helps gaskets seal, it suspends dirt and wear, it lubricates the engine and transfers the heat away from the engine
Yep, agree with all that Jack. Well stated. 👍
In my opinion, step one to cooling your bike.... get it on the open road and RIDE!
if you just ride "city" over short distances, that bike will never get cool due to lack of air
stage 1 your bike (open up that air cleaner and pipes) and get some wind on it...
Yep!!! Should have included that in the video. JUST RIDE! Get out on the open road and ride that bike! :)
So it comes out the factory runnin hot?
I’m not an expert but it seems that Harley has a lot of issues. I’m considering getting a motorcycle for my 45 mi. commute to work and wanted a road glide but not sure I’d feel comfortable putting that many miles on it and expecting it to be reliable day in and day out.
The baggers do run hot from the factory. They will keep running...just gradually lose power as they go out of tolerance...IF you don't do a few things to cool it down. Much depends on your ambient temps, how you ride, and what your performance expectations are. 25k miles a year is about 7 times more than the average Harley owner rides in a year.
Might be normal. But it’s the oil that can’t take the heat
Oil should be able to take the heat, it is the bike that shouldn't run that hot!
@@DKCustomProducts yeh. Not 300 degrees as said. My shovel ran at 212 degrees by the cheap dip stick. Solid lifters as was done 20+ years ago. It rattled like a can of marbles. I use penrite and Australian oil with no friction modifiers at the time one modified oil was around. VW had the same problem of bores glazing but. I rang penrite they said at the time the oil can handle 100c but don’t know for how long. That was in 85. So I’ve always used an oil cooler from then. Even evo and twin cam now still oil cooler. Yesterday my oil went to 130F for a wile with an oil cooler. And after what you said about 20/50 oil I’ll use straight 50.
Thanks from Australia
Man glad to help! Thank you for commenting!
What about just removing both of the thigh protectors?
Leaving one on to scoop the air across the rear of the rear cylinder will keep the rear cylinder cooler than having them both on or both removed.
@@DKCustomProducts honestly I can see where that would make sense on a bike without full lowers, your tri-glide however, not sure it would matter much… those lowers block a lot of air flow. That’s why Harley tells me to take off my soft lowers at temps over 50 degrees.
@@jeffreyengle2762 Yes, I understand your reasoning. Sometimes things are counter-intuitive, that is why we test everything.
It does make a difference, even on the Tri Glide. Also on the 2 wheel bikes that have lowers, and also on the Touring models that do Not have lowers.
Is it okay to just run 50W synthetic year long?
As shown in the video at the 2:42 mark, if you ride in temps below 60 degrees F, then running straight 50 is not recommended. This is because at those lower temps the oil is too thick and won't lubricate well on start up. If you always ride in temps above 60, then it is fine.
I run a JAG oil cooler
Jagg Oil Coolers are great at cooling the oil. We are their largest Dealer...and the only one that marries our parts with theirs for fitment on a Twin-Cooled bike.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/oil-coolers-c134.htm
@@DKCustomProducts Im running a S&S 95 inch kit on a 2000 Softail Standard. Its got more compression, hotter gear drive cams, a Mikuni carb, and a Thunderheader. I was living in South Texas where 110 at 2pm is common, and wanted to dump the heat from the extra power. I also rum Mobile 1 V-Twin oil
@@larrymcintyre5693 I hear ya. That is a great engine. Really like the built 88's.
@@DKCustomProducts Im also running heads from a 103 because they have bigger runners.
@@larrymcintyre5693 Very cool. I wish I had never gotten rid of my last carbed 88. With the work you've done to yours it sounds like a beast!
I would like a closer pic of the passenger pegs
What pegs?
Harley should not release bikes that can’t maintain a proper temperature. If it needs an oil cooler, raised fuel tank, it should come from the factory that way. Just like their factory suspension ( especially baggers ) that suck. They charge a premium price so we should expect to get a superior product.
I agree with you, but it just does not happen, for a variety of reasons. One of them is talked about in this video- czcams.com/video/rWOdQOtDv6A/video.html
They could easily make it maintain a proper temperature if they were liquid cooled. Then of course Harley people would have a fit.
@@jimkoch1040 Yep, they are between a rock and a hard spot....EPA and Customer Expectations..... czcams.com/video/rWOdQOtDv6A/video.html
@@DKCustomProducts for sure. I'm a Harley guy and I'd never own any other bike at this point in my life but it is frustrating dealing with what seems like constant issues with my Milwaukee 8.
@@jimkoch1040 What year M8 do you have?
Please tell me ...are you saying thigh protector? I am 67 yrs and what I think u are referring to is what I have always called a side cover...it is totally ridiculous to think we have to go to these extremes to keep from ruining our bikes...This will definitely be the last Harley I own...I never had a problem with my 06 Heritage or my 08 Dyna...
Thigh protector, NOT side cover. Look at the 5:07 mark in the video. There is a piece of black plastic in front of the side cover, and behind the rear cylinder, that is called a thigh protector.
@@DKCustomProducts thx got it!
Is there a class action lawsuit against Harley for fork seals I want in
There have been/are numerous class actions regarding Harley's running to hot, but I'm not aware of any regarding fork seals.
I've got a 96-in twin cam with 78k on it that I haven't done a single damn thing to to cool it down. Your mileage may vary.
Good to hear you are pleased with your 96" TC!