Multiple Problems/Poor Customer Communication (Low Power, Long Crank, Stalling P0171/P0174/P0121) P1
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- čas přidán 14. 01. 2022
- Link to part 2 (the follow up) • Multiple Problems/Poor...
2007 Chevy Suburban 5.3L with lean conditions from a fuel pressure issue and a vacuum leak, a dirty throttle body causing false TPS code P0121, and a charging system issue. If you are not careful with a job like this, it can end up costing you money.
Symptoms:
Long crank time, low power, backfiring through the intake, stalling, battery light on
:40 symptoms and customer complaint
2:18 what I think the problems are
3:36 code list and freeze frame data
5:05 long crank time
5:30 fuel trim data and O2 analysis
7:14 test drive to look at O2 at WOT
9:17 backfiring though the intake
9:33 forced open loop condition, fixed lean O2, how to test the O2 during this condition (do we have a mixture problem or O2 problem)
11:09 checking fuel pump current with a lab scope #uTestTerminalKit #AESwave
14:30 fuel pressure testing
17:15 addressing idle lean condition and TPS code
20:33 fuel pressure spec
23:35 fixing the TPS code/identifying and cleaning a dirty throttle body
29:14 reviewing the conditions and what we found with my brother
32:20 checking for a vacuum leak
33:05 why communication is the key
34:19 fuel psi dropped 2 psi when fans came on
35:10 idle relearn procedure
37:05 why it ran better in closed loop and after the codes were cleared
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Just started your premium channel this week and as recommended started with basic electrical concepts and moved to methods of testing (Chapter 1) and already am seeing what you teach coinciding in the work place. Like in Chapter 1 getting as much information from the customer. Also in the same chapter how you cover fuel trim and using a fuse jumper to the scan tool to collect data. Good stuff. I am tired of being a parts changer. I'm gonna be 58 ands it's never too old to learn. I was around for points and condensers and mechanical fuel pumps. Vehicles have come along way since then and continue to get more complex. You are a great teacher! You make learning easy. Electronics have always been my weakness in the field. Wish l would have joined sooner.
Awesome feedback! Thank you so much. Looking forward to hearing from you more.
It seems to be your go-to scanner. I'm in the market for a scope and was going to do the pico since you recommend it but my buisness is all mobile so I'm thinking this would be a better setup. Would you recommend any snap on scanners over this one or would you recommend an entry level pico ? Most videos I see you get by with the 2 channels available on the snap on
@@nikkoruscio4966 I know this is a few months old but I would go with a pico scope even as a mobile guy. You can get by with the snap on scope but when you want to do something like cam/crank correlation or something that requires looking at detail and making measurements the snap on can be a chore to use when compared to the pico. I would definitely also spring for the four channel for that reason as well. Even with a four channel you’ll sometimes find yourself taking two measurements to do some things like cam/crank correlation on a car with four cam sensors. The pick is so much more convenient to use that it’s worth carrying around the laptop for. If you want it to be ultra portable get a used Dell rugged tablet for cheap and mount the pico scope to the back.
"I'm not gonna clean it, I'm gonna make Danner clean it."
Proceeds to clean it himself. 🤣
Caleb and his edits are getting to become a fantastic aspect of this educational channel. Keeps everyone laughing 😂 while we learn.
I agree, thank you!
without some chuckling and knucklehead moments, it gets too boring for many and attention drifts off to daydream land.
Oh, man, you answered questions as I thought about them, time and again. It is so cool to have a teacher who is on the same frequency. What an interesting observation, to find the pump is working perfectly electrically, then using that as more evidence that the 'pump' is bad. Of course, if all of the regulator, filter, sock, internal tubing and pump are sold as a unit inside the tank, it doesn't matter which component has failed. You just need to prove the pressure is outside parameters and prove that the pump is getting adequate power.
Good to see you here!
starving the pump for fuel would likely cavitate and cause it's RPM's to rise, with current dropping lower. clogged filter would likely cause higher and steady current, seeing their most always pre-regulator.
so it's more likely the regulator or other leak within the tank, but it could be a combination of clogged filter/s, failing pump(check waveform on scope), regulator and leak. LOL
pretty much pull the tank and change the whole assembly or build a test tank and stand.( yeah nobody will do that)
Caleb adding his awesome touches 🤣😁😂
Excellent job editing !!
Watching these two very intelligent, wise, friendly brothers work together so well must make the folks so proud.
First 6 minutes of this video my mom shows up at the shop 😉czcams.com/video/NBqkJG500yk/video.html
@@ScannerDanner you're a solid dude bub.
As soon as you said "make Danner clean it" I knew you would be cleaning the throttle body. Love your work Paul.
Caleb's editing with the highlighted PID's is on point!
Side note : my Mazda6 has a base TPS percentage of 20%. This threw me for a loop and had me going down a rabbit hole myself when I had an issue to diagnose. Until I checked with a Mazda master tech who confirmed that it's normal!
P.S. Where's the make up Paul?
I Learn so much from this channel, thanks for always sharing your knowledge with us!
Sometimes people just don't care. The pump probably went first, causing the long crank time. If the battery was already marginal, the extended cranking likely finished off the battery. Then, the alternator was being stressed trying to charge a junk battery. If the customer had the vehicle serviced as soon as a problem was apparent, he could have saved himself some time and money in the long run.
Another great video. Thanks Paul, Caleb and Danner. You guys are a great team. Cracked up when Caleb did the "fast forward so you don't have to" caption.🤣🤣🤣 I'm an old retired guy but staying in the loop as much as I can from your e-book and videos. Many thanks.
So many things to consider but you break it down so we can understand what's going on, thank you.
Great video! Sometimes you gotta start with the obvious first and go from there. Nothing wrong with telling the customer we need a fuel pump and oil cap to begin with.
Even if I'm not a car mechanic I love to watch your videos.
Excellent stuff ! Great diagnosis . Thanks for teaching !
So typical for a customer to drive the car and for the customer to keep adapting to a vehicle that is suffering from multiple issues. The straw that broke the camels back was the charging/stalling issue. That usually brings in the most oblivious of customers. Even asking customers for details such as how it was running before the issue bringing in the vehicle is met with a blank stare. Engine management has become so adapt to failures. Both good and bad. Too bad our customers don’t have a OBD port!
I love these mixed bag of nuts troubleshoot videos. So typical of owners who just ignore their car until it quits. In for a penny - in for a pound.
Looking forward to the next video.
Clan Danner,
Great video - thank you! Cant wait to see the EEC-4 follies.
Paul (in MA)
As usual.... BRILLIANT diagnosis and explanation.. Please post video of the Mustang that gave you a hard time. Always learn from you.. Thanks.
Oh it's coming! Next week
It never fails to amaze me what people will put up with. As long as it starts & goes.
Paul , I know this is an older video, but one of your better ones ! A little banter with Danner, but you stayed on point, & your dead on right ! 👍👍👍👍
Last week i was able to diagnose fuel pump problems using fuel trim figures. My car could start first time but had driverbility problems. Checked the MAF figures were good no vacuum leaks fuel trim total 36%. Changed pump and was good as new. Yesterday i had a customer complain about long crank time when the car sits for a while. I confirmed that long crank time, checked fuel trim figures were 15% but could drive well. I put a pump and no more long crank time. Thanks for thes videos. I have really learn't alot.
These multiple problems from owner neglect are the toughest to diag and to explain to owners. Great job diagnosing this one. I want to see the Mustang video.
Thanks for the video and seeing your process.
Awesome, Thanks for sharing SD👍
That throttle plate cleaning process was quick & easy, learned another new technique😍
Special Thanks to James & Caleb Danner👍
Stay Blessed Guy's❤
Hey Caleb, it wasn't clear to me...did you dad want the fuel pump changed?? 🤣🤣
You Danner boys rock! 👏🏻👏🏻
So this is how brushing the TB ..Great contents
thats how me and my brothers debate love the channel very informative
Good to see some old fashion basic diagnosis.
Got to love multiple problems! Can't believe the guy was driving with no oil cap! Those engines barely last when everything is right, lol - I would definitely want my oil cap! I laughed hysterically when you were cleaning the TB, knocked something over, then, "BEEEP"- censored, LOL! You sound just like me! Hard not to cuss at something in this line of business, that's for sure. Anyway, hopefully he wants the fuel pump - I want to see that, since I have basically the same truck with a bed out back. So far my pump is still alive at 117k, but the engine is a different story. Fed that thing nothing but the best synthetics since 2k miles, too. Can't win today. I bought a pickup tube o-ring and 2-bolt support brace for it - hopefully that's all it is, but I'm not that hopeful. My guess is the #2 cam bearing, but we'll see. Just sucks it's so much work just to replace this little o-ring. Nice work as usual, fellas!
Thanx again for an awesome video guys
Damn it Paul that’s not how u clean a throttle body!!!!!!😂😂😂😂😂. As usual bro great stuff!
I can't wait for part 2.
Customer communication been killing it lately.
Great video guys as always.Getting the all information from some customers can be a real pain.If there is going to be a part 2 can't wait.Have a blessed and safe weekend.
I had a similar one but it was the plugged filter on the fuel pump module. After finding they drove in a dusty environment. If you let it sit then most of the crud would fall off and have to run it under heavy load for an hour or so. Then would plug off again and psi would drop to 15 psi. So changed the pump and got back up to the 55-60 psi again. There is a nice fuel pressure and flow tester fromMityvac MV5545 FST PRO. Very handy for loading the pump and verifying flow with pressure.
You actually cleaned the throttle body better than I do. I never want to spray too much cleaner into the intake lol..... I only clean where the idle will be affected.
Good one guys....thanks!
Great againg team Danner thanks for share, you made the weekend more interesting =)
Some of the public as a whole don’t realize how important maintenance is. I mean that truck is capable of 400,000 miles with proper maintenance.The dirt that got in the engine with no oil cap can cause premature engine failure. Another great video Paul and Caleb!
Thank you mr danner 👍
your brother at the end by his tool box has way more faith than i do when it comes to leaving draws open. that one in the back is terrifying lol.
Good information!
Wow. What a mess that car is... Just like the cars of most people I know! I don't understand why someone wouldn't put a fuel pump in however. Even if they wanted to sell the car, it seems that it would sell for much more if it could be driven. Fun video. You and Danner are great together.
Good job teacher
Aww man, I was looking forward to the "after" and finding out if there was a vacuum leak (aside from the oil cap).
Working on it! Hopefully we can make that happen. It all hinges on what else the truck needs to pass pa state inspection
Good job sharing
86 Mustang is making me curious, hopefully we will be able to watch it soon😉
But as of now totally focused on this case study😍
Working in the mustang videos now!
@@ScannerDanner Thanks Stay Blessed❤
Pull over, key off, unplug maf then road test again..if still lean you have a fuel delivery problem, if pre cat sensors go rich wide open throttle you have a maf probem. Just saying. Love you and your bro.
⏰ 19.15pm 15,1,2022 Good Evening Sir ScannerDanner take care and have a great day Sir ScannerDanner
Bottle of water 💧 Good for your body Sir ScannerDanner
As always tutorial great 👍 👌 ❤ it thank you Sir ScannerDanner 🙏 God bless your family around you Sir ScannerDanner
📷 man got the eyes for 🎥 🎞 very well done .Thank you take care .
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Danner, I use penetrant, an old toothbrush, and a shop towel to clean them. No need to take the throttle body off..... in the 90s that was chrysler's way to clean them.
My go to fuel pressure limit test is just squeeze the fuel supply hose with some pliers and watch the gauge, if it hardly moves... it's getting a pump.
You need to make an episode where after a diag like this, and the problem with the previous car, you walk outside the shop and are attacked by zombies. It would make for a good ending. :-)
Great job
Great video, yours always are. I have a different problem. 2013 Tacoma 2.7L, I don't think this is relevant but lightning struck near the vehicle during a storm, truck started the next morning and while driving to town just shut down. No check engine light, cranks but no start, no communication, only with airbag. checked 5volt reference, 2.8 volts at mass air which I thought was not pulling down enough to be a grounded sensor but started disconnecting sensors anyway. of course all disconnected voltage came up to 3 volts but did not return to 5. Is the 2.8 volts at THA wire on maf to high to be a grounded circuit or sensor?
I would like to see a fuel volume test just to possibly explain the idle trims. I like to check alcohol compensation as well on E85 vehicles.
245K, wow that's a lot of miles. I wish customers were more up front with all the problems their vehicle is exhibiting. Your brother was right though, once you know a vehicle has a low voltage issue then that has to be addressed before doing anything else (you know that too Paul I'm sure). Low voltage can really mess with electronics on a vehicle. P.S. , tell Caleb nice thumbnail, LOL.
Hi sir Danner,
Why mechanics hestitate to replace O2-sensors,after every 50k milage/without given some problem.*
I change them as soon they reach 50k miles...even if they are working fine.*
Thanks.
Keep the good TEACHING AND PRODUCTION OF GREAT VIDEOS WITH DETAILED ILLUSTRATIONS IN DIAGNOSTICS.*
Bessings for you and your family.
👍😎
I won't change them based on mileage but based on activity (frequency and amplitude of the signal)
I"m so damn glad I don't have to deal with these types of highly computerized vehicles. That's where I'm so damn happy to own a 1992 Ford truck...and will keep it for as long as humanly possible. Not hard to figure out problems...and it's rarely expensive for me to fix something.
Good work but do not know when you treated the vacuum leak or fuel pressure leak. Thanks.
As a foxbody owner myself, i feel your frustration lol
test drive after every repair can be the shop's up sell too. Charging issue repaired, test drive, low power-let's look into that...
Great video! Would you recommend an oil change for this because the oil cap was missing? Please wear your seat belt next time ;)
Pumps in the tank, regulators in the tank and now Danners in the tank replacing it👍
I just diagnosed a problem on that truck you're driving...,.. driver side mirror needs to be replaced...... Dam I'm getting good.
There is the pressure that the pump produces, and there is the performance of the pump. which needs to be taken into account. one does not depend on the other.
Those friggin' GM fuel pump check valves. Usually we don't see them last long enough for the check valve to go bad, the hard metal line coming off the sending unit almost always rots away and causes our long crank times
new camera? looks good
On these and most GM.14% at 14 or above is when they'll set that code at 12% or less you can and will have stalling problems with the a.c. on hot and warm. I keep good practice to check this as a maintenance. 06 to bla can't remember you will see around 4 to 7 . older they will go closer to 0 mainly on GM cars.
Am already watching. I know i will learn a lot. First one to comment
Im surprised the customer didnt have the custom ping pong / golf ball oil cap option... And lets be honest, had he bought a Studebaker, he wouldn't be having any of these problems.
I think it's not the fuel pump.
Because the fuel pump is in spect.also you have to start to put the oil cap first and see .
The engine need air escaping from oil cap and that's why you have a long crank start.
Also don't forget I injector and vacuum leak or fuel pump filter...
Thanks for video
Just got a Zues for my shop. Was using an Autel Elite II. Auto config worked better with 'Autel, I think anyway. What I'm saying is I feel your anger when the auto config or ID doesn't happen.
It’s probably the regulator in this case as the pump waveform looks pretty healthy while the pressure drops off instantly with the key off. Looks like the regulator is stuck wide open. GM is so dumb with their output test control timers and their diagnostics in general. Like when you get a timing code and it totally shuts down everything with the variable valve timing and everything defaults to zeros and is ignored. It basically renders the scan tool useless in checking valve timing issues and you pretty much have to go straight for the scope. With Fords you can look at the VVT error pids and see the timing out or jumping around.
Good 👍 sir.what is deferent in mass and map please ?
Normally when the fuel pump fails the fuel pump will get hot and short out that is what I've been taught that the fuel pump will stop working all together also the fuel pump when it's cool down then a vehicle would run okay until it gets warm then it will short out I've been known that it's a common problem and diagnosing a fuel pump and diagnosing powering grounds
since it was popping so easily when leaning out from fuel starvation. I don't recall any of them doing that from only lack of fuel, right to the point of melting down the cats. even way worse than that was.
I'm going to say, the spark plugs/secondary ignition is also spanked or junk parts, on top of all the other issues. then again, maybe the cats are melted down clogged too. driving it like that long term is killer bad. 🤪
absolutely the popping was from lack of fuel, not a misfire from a secondary ignition issue. When the spec is 50-60 and under WOT snap in the shop, it drops to 30, Imagine what it actually was on the test drive?!! I bet it dropped to 20
I don’t know why snap on scan tools sometimes ask for the year model while other times it self ids. It’s funny because you accidentally hit the wrong year model then it tells you that the year model is incorrect according what it’s reading from the car. Just self ID the car then 😂
Right?
Sold my 86 5.0 Mustang because it went batchit crazy!
Recently sold it?
@@ScannerDanner She’s been gone for awhile!
32:56 Paul & Dan can we get a video on that sweet gto ?
THXS
Hello, greetings from the Dominican Republic, Master Danner. I really like your Disgnostics, as how professional you are. I would like to know if your book has already been translated into Spanish. ❤
yes it has, it has just not been published yet
@@ScannerDanner Ok, thanks Master greetings to all your work team and blessings ❤
One good rule of thumb is unhook the battery before messing with that throttle plate that joker can take a finger off and it also resets the how to learn on its own once battery is hooked back up
Can't unhook the battery to open the throttle with a scanner (best way to do it!) Just keep your fingers out of there
If you had a helper , could they turn the ignition to the on position (not cranked) and depress the accelerator petal all the way. Would this open the throttle? Then clean with a toothbrush. Drive by wire system of course.
@@ScannerDanner I think he meant when opening the throttle manually(by hands)
@@dougsanders6034 yes, but some cars you have to put them in gear for the throttle to react to app movement with the engine off
I had a Chevy pickup a couple weeks ago, running lean due to a lost oil cap
You forgot the part where the weekend warrior reuses the TB gasket after cleaning everything for 4 hours.
🤣🤣
I was thinking same thing!
Love it
I've seen misfires at idle caused by a dirty throttle plate area.
I am in the marine engine repair field and almost every running issue that isn't a new boat warranty issue is a multi problem situation. People don't bring their equipment in until they have to push or tow it in some times because they don't want or have the money to spend and some times because the problems show up gradually and stack up on each other. I have had customers state the boat won't plane off but it idles fine but then we find a 6 cylinder engine is running on 3, shakes and barely runs at idle. Also here in the south I have to be careful of what the customer is saying and what he or she means. If the engine won't start many of the customers say it won't crank so I expect a starter circuit problem but the fact is, it cranks and won't start.
We deal with the same and I can only imagine how difficult a "test drive" may be at times for you! Thanks for sharing.
If it's not duty cycle controlled, pull the relay and give it power!
This is typical in my area, 1 thing goes wrong the customer leaves it and gets used to it, then another thing goes wrong and leaves that too then when a 3rd thing goes wrong the car is horrible to drive then they bring it in. Now you second guessing your diagnosis because you think can all these things go wrong at the same time ?
After the new fuel pump, smoke check for evap leaks? No? Also, not going underneath to check for powers & grounds . . . shouldn’t Ps & Gs ultimately be checked right at the component to rule out bad connections, line corrosion, etc.?
Amperage pattern of the pump said powers and grounds were good!
Our Solus Ultra right up to the final supported software update won't auto ID most earlier Chevrolet VIN numbers. No problem GMC auto Vin ID'S They had 25 years to address this but dropped the ball.
I would love to see the volume on the pump, when it fire intake. Look for part two
I never do volume measurements. Fuel pressure under load is all you need to determine volume. But I'm 100% certain it would fail any volume test you'd do on it
I don't do volume measurements but my fuel pressure gauge kit has a fuel flow gauge built in, handy for fuel starvation faults
New o2 sensors seem to create more check engine lights than they solve these days. Has the QC gone done in manufacturing or what!?!
Them thing are common for Oil pressure switch failure
Some of those trucks around that year model won’t relearn the idle without reprogramming the PCM to the latest calibration. It will idle ok until you hit the throttle once and then take off to 3000 RPM and stay there. Neither a relearn or battery reset will fix it if that’s the case. It’s weird because it’s not all of them but I have come across it more than a few times. Even tried using the tech 2 for a relearn with no luck. I guess it’s a software glitch as reprogramming seems to get rid of the issue permanently.
I've been down this road!
The thing you forgot to show and talk about was the GTO. lol
Love seen you and your brother working together, may God bless you all and God bless America 🇺🇸 🙏 ❤️
coolant temp is kind of low could it be a bad thermostat or temp sensor?
Hi Paul
Quick question, I’m not doubting your diagnosis AT ALL!!!
Just trying to learn about sign waves now that I have a uscope 😀
If the pump is bad, why does the fuel pump sign wave on your scope looks good?
Can’t wait for the 1986 mustang diagnosis!!!
Think because the waves are just checking 12 volt power supply and good ground. The actual signal. not actually the fuel pressure
It has good power and ground was what the amperage told us. And the characteristics of the pump waveform looked good too suggesting that it may actually be a regulator or in take leak issue, but all of this falls under the umbrella of a new pump assembly being needed. We were talking about this at times too. On this design, the regulator, filter and pump are all one assembly and do not get serviced separately. Hope that makes sense. If this had an external regulator, then further testing of that regulator would have been warranted here.
@@ScannerDanner got it 😀