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Your repair will outlast the part. I really didn't think the heat shrink was going To fit, but it did

Thanks.

I just wanted to say thanks bro. Ive been in texas since 4th grade. Im still but a Damn yankee born in greenville P.A. 1/10/1966 . Most of my family are still around there or as i remember? You may be in euclid or Cleveland but u still in p.a. ❤ god bless you n yours and keep blessing others with your passion bro.

Oh yea, that motor sounds good

Brilliant, thanks Danner.

Great information. I always wondered why a dirty TB would affect how it does. Thanks

great video, everything except seeing those rollerblades, someone has to pay that away 😁

Thanks Paul for another great video

That's interesting. Now wait till they roll out with wheel sensors with internal batteries like TPMS where you get to replace the hub/bearing whenever the battery is depleted. Thank me later when GM engineering read this.

What about valve spinning on the seat.

shout out from South main Auto who said to come watch your videos to lean about voltage drop.

Thanks for sharing SD👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 You did the right thing by not claiming warranty on the hub, truly appreciate your honesty👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 SD your truck needs a good detailing😇 Stay Blessed BRO🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

I bet it hooked the tread in the tire and yanked on it hard.. and the outer sheath was able to stretch, but the wire inside broke.. Especially if you have tread on the sidewalls of your tires.

I see this kind of wiring damage quite often on accident vehicles. Usually shops are pretty good about spotting busted harnesses, but I get quite a few calls saying "The harness looks good, we went over it several times," only to find this kind of internal damage, and you absolutely can feel it if you run your fingers over it!

my OCD is kicking in on that wire repair Danner....

Not the same jeep , but the video is a good one for wire diagnostic.

If you had an android, then you could of used screen recorder to see Top Don info.

Good catch! It's so true that vibrating wires causes the copper to work harden and then become brittle and then the strands begin to snap off.

There are tons of similar videos on CZcams about every issue ScannerDanner brings up to us, but the question is that there no one at all to teach us how to diagnose, find, and repair the issue in this details with smartest way to do it and the most cheap and efficient way of repair, so knowledge and money saving at your own hands on the couch probably watching that video for free. Technically we make money as a DIYrs cause the money we save is extra cash we have saved. Phenomenal content as always ScannerDanner. Thank you

Another great video

Love the video Paul and Caleb!! Caleb is really to film full motion pictures ❤. God Bless you guys!

Thank you for this video.

Great video as always!

thx

How did you know I was working on this very same problem.. no 4wd was the indication aswell as the mass of dash lights. Love your calming content.

Anybody have suggestions for a signal generator for something like a pulse width modulated signal, ac signal. Something that is fairly reasonably priced?

Better to replace the entire ABS WS Sensors than repairing wires.

I caught one of these at a Chevy MAF sensor connector once. The insulation was perfect, but it was floppy, and tugging on the wire, it was stretchy where the strands were broken inside.

Hmm.... to me (in FIN market area) it's 90% not seen by "naked eye" when the wire in side has green infection... ...the other then is when winter(studs) /summer tyres get swiched the abs wire get binced betwean the wheel and the shock and cut was made. But then again your lucky if you find active aftermarket ABS-sensor that works, on any car. ...Specially if they are rounded with garbage bag for you that says some thing like "if opened no return!" ...that means "DWD" Dead When D...! one car had ~10 different aftermarket makers for abs sensors for the car and the cheapest without back worked funny thing was some of them showed speed on scan pid!!! but the dtc come back secend you put power on! and dvom showed why. it tested differently then the original! PS.on active switch polarity of the leads when testing! some of them has diode or something as they shold be OL other way and like 1.6Kohm other... ...im at 2:34 so sorry if you already talk this on video. EDIT: 5:52 remember the suspension moves. So the wire can need to bee longer when wheel turned (all the way) and its bottoms up with bump on road! I find Mercedes VAN ABS sensor that run from back to front...(Yes ask customer first! dos he/she want you to run the cabel and strip the van or can you cut and keep the extra wire first!!!! EDIT2: 7:00 Yes you can! .. atlest every one that i have needed to test! Yes! one way can be OL switch the leads ON THE METER SIDE! and Heureca. PS usually the 4 sensors have same walue but at lest the same axel has the same resistans when all is good ! EDIT3: 8:00 Again OL only on one way! Both ways is bad sensor! At least everytime in here and YES some times only ORIGINAL WORKS AS Covid copied SHIT to aftermarket sales!!!! EDIT4: 11:17 Then eather you have weak battery on your DVOM or you dint think to test it other way around! the same gos with injectors thes days so come on!!!! EDIT5: 14:40 So, the how you explain this? ..They arent OL anymore? I expect the active sensor has protection for wrong way voltage/current or some a mount and thats why its "OL" for one way and go for other... EDIT6: So is it OL both ways or not? if it is thenthats the first for me But then again i hardly work on USA cars in Finland so most of them are EU and man my brean.... Sorry my bad English! and hay just now i noticed that i see this on YT and not on sd.own site so sorry as i pay it i wil be back after summer vacation.. you can count on that! ;)

Great video to help the diy er on how to and use inexpensive tools. Also Timken makes a great bearing because you don’t always know what’s in a Napa box .

I bought that TopDon scanner you used to keep in the car for “emergency” situations etc. I was highly impressed by its capabilities. The TopPro has been very good so far and is way beyond what I expected.

I appreciate the frustration. I am racking my brain for months on this stupid car. I wish I had help.

That clip on the aftermarket hubs sucks. I always remove the factory clip and re-use it. I did a repair on a wheel speed sensor on a Lexus last year. The sensor was just under $500 with shipping, so I opted for a wire repair instead. That was one happy customer.

Napa #notasponsor

We once had a broken wire to find - visual showed nothing so we split the wire down until we got down to a 2 foot segment passing the rad. fan (the most likely place obv.) No visible damage - no 'lump' where corrosion was insside either - eventually we found where it was broken but there was NO corrosion and NO evidence outside of the insulation - it had just snapped inside the insulation!! Factory defect perhaps - maybe previously pinched or caught on something - weird-as-hell thing to find tho...

The sensor doesn't have any resistance at all? After repair

My guess? The heat from abrasion melted the insulation inside the cable so the two inner conductors shorted.

I want to see where it has a damaged, still watching now

Awesome Outstanding job thanks

good job .. keep going ❤

It's really nice to see the relationship you have with your son

How sweet, smart mom raised a smart son helping millions of people how to fix cars properly 👍

my neighbor has a 2019 jeep with plugged cats. the driver side cat is such a problem you cant find them anywhere. new cats from chrysler are 2k a piece. all other options are on backorder with no idea of when theyll be available. we took his cats off and cleaned them with L.A totally awesome cleaner 😂 and dawn platinum. his jeep is running with no check engine codes for over a week now

I had a Fiat Stilo with naturally aspirated 1.4 that claimed 90hp. It was a nightmare to drive with AC on. And I really mean a hell of a nightmare. Each time the compressor kicked in I had to give it full gas to even do anything. Now I have another Stilo, with a 1.9 JTD 115hp turbodiesel. Same car, same weight. I almost don't feel the power going down when that compressor is on. Maybe if I upshift a bit too soon, and the rpm gets below 1500, it doesn't pull as hard until the turbocharger spools up. But that's it. 90hp vs 115hp - it doesn't seem much. But as far as it goes for the torque, it's 128Nm vs 230Nm. And that makes a difference.

There should be a sight glass in the discharge line from the compressor to the evaporator to see what the system charge is. That system doesn't have a TXV,it has a cap tube with a meetering office. If you are using 134A it needs to be added as liquid because 134A is a blend of 2 refrigerants. Take a reclaim tank pumped down to 28 inches of manifold vacuum and pull out the 2.5 pounds of refrigerant. If the receiver dryer wasn't changed, that is the first place to check for a restriction, touch it for temp change

So it was bad coilpack?

How come no video case studies anymore?

What do u mean heavy cable? Power cable?