Airlocks in F and E heating systems? How to convert to a sealed pressure system.
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- čas přidán 2. 12. 2021
- F and E systems constantly seem to drag in air. How about fitting a pressure vessel and filling loop kit. Here is the link if you would like one from my Amazon store. amzn.to/3oGghwO
Visit Al`s plumbing shop for parts at amazon.co.uk/shop/dereton33.
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Thanks Al. - Jak na to + styl
Nice explanation with Al CAD.
Just got to make sure the system can handle the extra pressure. If full of old radiators and valves there may be some leaks springing out when pressure raised
Great point!
excellent channel I'm a plumber and I still find it interesting....😊
Glad you enjoy it! Thanks.
A couple of things to point out, 1) the warning pipe from your pressure relief valve (PRV) should not terminate in a drain as you will not be made aware that its opening if your pressure is too high and 2) which is more important, only convert an open vented system to a pressurised system if your boiler is fitted with an overheat thermostat which many older boilers didn't have.
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Thanks Martin.
@@jayseabie215 When was the last time you saw a tundish fitted on a PRV warning pipe of a combi or pressurised system?, Unvented HW cylinders are a different story and DIYers should never be touching those.
@@jayseabie215 NO the title of the post is about converting an open vented system to a sealed (pressurised) system using an expansion vessel kit, combi boilers need to be fitted to a pressurised system and are already fitted with an expansion vessel and necessary components as are some heat only boilers. The only time you might terminate the PRV warning pipe to a drain would be if it was impossible to route the pipework to outside then you could use a special type of tundish with a dry trap to prevent foul waste gasses coming back into the room.
Great video. I think I’ve got,one of those problems. My heating boiler fires up perfectly heating works hot water works. Then after approximately 7 days stops working. Boiler fires up but. As soon as the pipes are hot at the pump it shuts down hot water won’t get,passed the pump and 2 way valve. Then after 4 to 6 days it all starts working again what would you think the problem is. ?
Check the F and E tank is filling correctly in the loft . Air could also be building up in the system. If you have never had the system cleaned there could also be sludge build up.
Hi Al, my airing cupboard is much cooler than it’s always been and also the shower water is not as hot as its always been. Do you think the pump is on the way out please? The system is 22 years old and the pump is 15 years old. I turned down the pump from 3 to 2 and the radiators are much warmer, so a bonus there 😀 Thanks for all you do 🙏 🤗
Hi Jackie, the pump is quite old but as you are still getting heating ok I would leave it. More than likely it could be some sludge in the system on the hot water side if you have never had the system cleaned, now might be a good time. I have plenty of videos on how to do it. I would also leave the boiler it is still managing the heating so sounds ok.
@@dereton33 Hi again. Thank you SO much for your reply, which is very much appreciated 👍 Had inhibitor put in 5 years ago and hope that meant it was flushed out, but will follow your very sage advice 😀 Thanks once again and have a lovely weekend. Hugs to you both 🤗
Hi Jackie, It worth checking your cylinder thermostat is set high enough and there could be a gate valve on the return pipework that might need adjusting as they are very often only open slightly to balance the flow through the indirect coil of the cylinder and are therefore prone to dirt building up and restricting the flow even further.
@@martinasher8705 Hi Martin, thank you so much for chiming in with advice 👍 I did turn the tank stat up and it seemed to have the desired effect as the shower is certainly hot now but there is obviously an underlying issue to be sorted. I do like your suggestion about dirt building up and the gate valve adjustment which makes sense. I’m hoping to have the system flushed out and pump replaced as soon as I can find someone who’s not rushed off their feet. Thanks again, your input is very much appreciated 🤗
Hi there, are you familiar with the Aladdin HV50 Auto Vent? I’ve been asked to look at one on a radiator in a converted attic. Radiator is hot at the bottom, no heat at all half way up. Any idea how I manually bleed this? The auto bleed function doesn’t appear to be working (it looks quite old). Thanks in advance - absolutely brilliant channel.
Hi Richard just loosen the valve off with a spanner this will let the air escape. Then tighten back up when water shows.
@@dereton33 Thanks Al… which one is the spanner again :)
👍👍⚒️🔨🔧
Cheers Paul.
My F& E was removed to a sealed system with filling loop to a system boiler with its own expansion tank many years ago
When I put the HW on, the rads heat up also and affects the speed and temp the cylinder water gets to
I checked for reverse circulation but the rads flow and returns heat up same side I checked the motorised valve and does not seem to let
can you please help me work out what could be wrong
I have a suspicion that the cylinder return has been connected incorrectly Would you have a look at some photos
Sure send them to my e-mail address.