I’ve been plumbing for over 20 years professionally. Helped my dad with side jobs as a kid. I enjoy your videos and think you do great work. Keep it up I wish you the best of luck
Your absolutely right. Expansion tank supported by the appliance nipple is superior. Hanging the expansion tank on the wall with a bracket with a 2' dead leg pipe branch to a device that you know is going to fail within 5 years is nuts
Really enjoy your videos , I'm HVAC tech in NY and the idea of pvc water lines and swapping prvs on domestic water lines outside is so foreign to me but at the sametime super entertaining. I also feel that your content will hopefully inspire the younger generation that there's a real future in learning a trade . Keep up the good work errrrrrrr
3 self tapping screws need to be on draft hood (if not done, it’s hard to see) Pan drain needs to terminate to exterior First 18” needs insulated. This is a nice install, by the way I’m just looking for bonus points
Awesome video. Hilarious, made me chuckle quite a bit. I'm by no means a plumber. "How do you get it up thhurr?". I actually laid the dolly flat, as well as the water heater. I slid the water heater to the height I needed and strapped the fucker down. So when I raised it, it was actually 2 feet off the ground. Not sure if there's a technique in the industry, but worked pretty gooohd furr me.
The relief piping shall discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater and discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants.
@@replumb Here in the Midwest the relief valve discharge can not be directly piped to the outside as a small dribble during the cold season could freeze in the pipe and create a bomb. However it can be piped to the outside through an air-gap on the inside.
@@replumb IPC, IRC, ICC, all say relief valve must terminate in the same room as water heater. It's also code to have a hot water recirc on hot water systems. Why did you sweat male adapters on when you suspected PEX behind wall? I'm guessing the cost of mip and valve. Manufacturer suggest you install an expansion tank with threads up not down. That was first watch. I can watch again and see what I can find. Install looked good, just not code
The code violation is using a cvpc male adapter with plastic on the t&p. Should have used a cvpc male adapter with metal threads. It even says on the package you cant use cvpc male adapter on hot water.
Hey man I love your videos I watch you all the time and you're great. I've been trying to figure out how to ask you a question and I guess this is the only way. I am a maintenance man that works in a 13-story retirement building. I always wonder what you use when you cut the toilet bolts short after installing a toilet. Any chance you could let me know what you use? Are they compact bolt cutters or what? Thanks a million man!
Code violation: no bonding (grounding) wire. No bracket on expansion tank. Not trolling that’s just what’s required in my area of Los Angeles. Love the content keep up the great work!
love the videos bro. 2 questions. Where did you get the propress depth gauge? Also how much longer does it take to do a job vs do it and record it. Just Talking about wrench time
no strap in the bottom third of the water heater, no insulation on the piping farther than 6 inches from the flue (the entire pipe in Placer county), no screws in the draft diverter, and as a bonus, it's required to have 18" of developed length between the water heater and expansion tank, but I'm never called on it despite always using brass off the tank.
@@replumb I know for a fact you need 18 inches of developed length in our area between the expansion tank and the water heater. They just don’t call us out on it. Maybe I couldn’t see the screws. The water heater strap looks like it’s too high, but it would be dumb to fail the water heater inspection over that. It may be in the bottom third and my eyecrometer is off.
Nah. It doesn’t need a drain pan to be code compliant. Good guess. If it were in an area that could cause structural damage you might be right. But the client also denied having the hole drilled and drain line ran
1) Provide a bonding jumper, hot-cold-gas 2) Provide pipe insulation on hot and cold lines 3) Expansion tank to be independently supported- Cannot be supported by piping 4) Need number of bedrooms and bathrooms in the dwelling to determine the first hour rating
Serious question as you seem like you know what you are doing, but why do people use pipe dope AND tape when the companies that manufacture these products don’t say to do so? I would think if it somehow helped then they would want you to buy both because it would be more money in their pocket. But nowhere on any instructions have I seen the recommendation to do both? Is this just some old wives tale that plumbers continue to practice ? Not trying to be critical just curious where this line of thinking comes from. Great video, per usual . Subscribed
So I have been watching your videos for awhile now and I really enjoy them, I have been a journeyman plumber for 8 years now. The trend of CZcams plumbers is out of hand I just watched this guy chakmantheking and I thought he was trolling but he's not. It is disrespectful to the plumbing community to say that you can plumb but watch the things he does, more are like him and are giving the community false representation of what we actually do. Take a look for yourself and I'm sure your jaw will drop like mine did. Not trying to give this guy a shout out but since I've watched your videos apparently CZcams put all these plumbing repairs in my algorithm.
1:31 you told you caped the return line. Not concerned about a long pipe with ‘death’ water? Or did you cap it close to the last warm water user? Also funny the previous plumber put a pump on the hot water out of the boiler. I would’ve put the pump on the return line. In combination with a temperature controlled valve and a timer, it would’ve been so much better. Nice and easy job. I’m always surprised with putting a pressure cilinder in the hot side, in our region we put back preventing pressure relief valves in the cold supply line.
Same, the tank is on the cold inlet side on my heater. I wonder why some folks install it on the hot side. I think hot water would just degrade it faster?
Tank on cold for sure, definitely downgraded someone's hot water system. Dielectric unions👀 how does that sediment trap work👀 isn't gravity involved? There's a difference between installers and technicians
@@replumbfor pex or cpvc no but copper or galvanized, you need a bonding jumper. Those water lines get energized and shock someone, guess who getting sued...not the inspector that missed it
Gueses for code violation in CA. pan drain is suppose to exit garage? Bottom strap is a couple inches too high? no straps on expansion tank? metal nipple going into plastic threads? 3 screws per vent connection? Am i close???
@replumb I noticed that but was curious. I have used Amtrol for years with no issues and mounting them in various orientation. I am not sure when they started the upright spec or why.
@replumb hay boy, you get off my job site! In my day, we used a pale of water on the wood stove to heat our water. We didn't use no fancy contraption to heat our water for us!
That's an existing receptacle outlet, not required to be changed to GFCI. Now install a tankless or heat pump and use that receptacle outlet, guess what you now need
My water tank doesnt produce enough hot water to fill my jacuzzi tub. Shout i get a larger tank or is there a tub heater that can be connected inside the tub enclosure? Great vids btw. Thanks
Did you check the in-house water pressure & then pump up the expansion tank's air pressure to match? Also: there are many YT plumber videos that say that the way you oriented the expansion tank (with water intake at bottom) is "upside down" & "against code". Comment?
My father who is not in plumbing went got a expansion tank in 2018 or 2017 when our old hot water heater broke. We got that and replaced the hot water heater I wanted a drain pan maybe the next upgrade.
@@replumb either talk them into it explaining the risk of disease or like I also suggested to tie the loop back in. It will push hot water throughand stop stagnant water just keep the check valve on the cold. One of your responsibilities as a plumber is safety of public health.
I think a pan is a grey area if the water heater was on a platform away from the wall then I would say no damage could occur and platform isnt required but a platform like that If an inspector was to say its required not much argument to tell him he would be wrong. also insulate the lines is code. also sediment trap is clearly specefied in the code to be as close to the appliance as practical , So if you ever leave that town and get another inspector your argument can only be that an instalation like that has the sediment trap as close as is practical. My opinion the whole sediment trap thing is bulshit and that it dosent make a bit of differance but thats the code 2016 code would have required the sediment trap to be upstream from the flex line like you are plumbing them. but we aint in that code I dont see mention of that in newer codes I think we are 2022 CPC?
You really are ripping off the customer in material changing stuff that still works. People can’t afford all this fancy material that plumbers are using. Hope you realize that people will catch on to that and not want to hire you. If you have a warranty fine but I hope you are not changing anything on purpose.
Im undefeated against local inspectors 😂😂 Love the content man
Great Stats!
Thank you for watching
"must have been a misprint" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
First long form video I got to see fresh and it even has voices! Thanks bro for the awesome and entertaining content. From an HVAC tech in Texas! 🤠
I’ve been plumbing for over 20 years professionally. Helped my dad with side jobs as a kid. I enjoy your videos and think you do great work. Keep it up I wish you the best of luck
I like to use a split ring hanger, a short piece of all-thread, and a wall/ceiling plate to give that expansion tank just a little support.
nice buddy good job
Best explanation for the use of dope and tape that I've heard thus far 👌
Your absolutely right. Expansion tank supported by the appliance nipple is superior. Hanging the expansion tank on the wall with a bracket with a 2' dead leg pipe branch to a device that you know is going to fail within 5 years is nuts
Really enjoy your videos , I'm HVAC tech in NY and the idea of pvc water lines and swapping prvs on domestic water lines outside is so foreign to me but at the sametime super entertaining. I also feel that your content will hopefully inspire the younger generation that there's a real future in learning a trade . Keep up the good work errrrrrrr
Kicking ass buddy, good looking install! 👌
Thank you
OOOOoooo a long format video! Awesome!
Hope you enjoyed it!
3 self tapping screws need to be on draft hood (if not done, it’s hard to see)
Pan drain needs to terminate to exterior
First 18” needs insulated.
This is a nice install, by the way I’m just looking for bonus points
Try fitting a 4x4 between your dolly and the water heater for a few extra inches when lifting heater on the platform
Awesome video. Hilarious, made me chuckle quite a bit.
I'm by no means a plumber. "How do you get it up thhurr?". I actually laid the dolly flat, as well as the water heater. I slid the water heater to the height I needed and strapped the fucker down. So when I raised it, it was actually 2 feet off the ground. Not sure if there's a technique in the industry, but worked pretty gooohd furr me.
I watch these for the voices 😅 great work.
In our jurisdiction, the thermal expansion tank is not allowed to be supported by the water lines. Needs its own support bracket 😊
Eeeeeerrrrr that pan drain isn't terminating less than 6" above the floooooooooooor
PS great vid, love your style. Love your moves
The code violation is the trolls in the comments who think they know more than a professional plumber.
Really enjoyed the long form video!
Glad to hear it!
Only violation I see is the carpenter used a beaver to cope that casing at the bottom…..
The relief piping shall discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater and discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants.
maybe in your code book. over here where I plumb, the relief piping shall discharge through the exterior of the building player
@@replumb Here in the Midwest the relief valve discharge can not be directly piped to the outside as a small dribble during the cold season could freeze in the pipe and create a bomb. However it can be piped to the outside through an air-gap on the inside.
@@_backflowjoelol it wouldn’t create a bomb but the water heater tank would probably blowout prematurely due to excessive pressure
@@replumb IPC, IRC, ICC, all say relief valve must terminate in the same room as water heater. It's also code to have a hot water recirc on hot water systems. Why did you sweat male adapters on when you suspected PEX behind wall? I'm guessing the cost of mip and valve. Manufacturer suggest you install an expansion tank with threads up not down. That was first watch. I can watch again and see what I can find. Install looked good, just not code
Pan drain can’t be pvc in my area
Good job boy, looks pretty good
The code violation is using a cvpc male adapter with plastic on the t&p. Should have used a cvpc male adapter with metal threads. It even says on the package you cant use cvpc male adapter on hot water.
Hey man I love your videos I watch you all the time and you're great. I've been trying to figure out how to ask you a question and I guess this is the only way. I am a maintenance man that works in a 13-story retirement building. I always wonder what you use when you cut the toilet bolts short after installing a toilet. Any chance you could let me know what you use? Are they compact bolt cutters or what? Thanks a million man!
Code violation: no bonding (grounding) wire. No bracket on expansion tank. Not trolling that’s just what’s required in my area of Los Angeles. Love the content keep up the great work!
A master at work!
Drip leg should be @ water heater control valve. Great work, love the commentary.
love the videos bro. 2 questions. Where did you get the propress depth gauge? Also how much longer does it take to do a job vs do it and record it. Just Talking about wrench time
Code violation is probably the pan drain hose going to the floor. That and maybe position of the sediment trap
no strap in the bottom third of the water heater, no insulation on the piping farther than 6 inches from the flue (the entire pipe in Placer county), no screws in the draft diverter, and as a bonus, it's required to have 18" of developed length between the water heater and expansion tank, but I'm never called on it despite always using brass off the tank.
The insulation is the only violation
@@replumb I know for a fact you need 18 inches of developed length in our area between the expansion tank and the water heater. They just don’t call us out on it. Maybe I couldn’t see the screws. The water heater strap looks like it’s too high, but it would be dumb to fail the water heater inspection over that. It may be in the bottom third and my eyecrometer is off.
Not a plumber but is the code violation, the pan drain goes to nowhere?
Nah. It doesn’t need a drain pan to be code compliant. Good guess. If it were in an area that could cause structural damage you might be right. But the client also denied having the hole drilled and drain line ran
@@replumb well then I have no clue hahaha
Depends what year. IPC 2018 says it's illegal for plastic drain pans on gas water heaters
They won’t let us use single wall B vent anymore out here in the East.
Sorry for your luck
HEY, BOY! this is a pretty great video. 😊
1) Provide a bonding jumper, hot-cold-gas
2) Provide pipe insulation on hot and cold lines
3) Expansion tank to be independently supported- Cannot be supported by piping
4) Need number of bedrooms and bathrooms in the dwelling to determine the first hour rating
Where does the T&P valve terminate? We terminate them 6"s above the floor provided there is a floor drain in the vicinity.
Was the code Violation that you did not have pipe insulation on the cold and hot supply lines ?
yep. kind of pointless tbh because you also can’t have it within 6” of the flue. So you’d have some insulation escutcheons
I would not have guessed that. I thought it might be that the flue needs a straight section before any elbows
I think the code violation is the pipe. coming from the Smitty Pan should be running to the outside of the of the building. Am I correct?
The bottle of paint thinner just hanging out
Hey boy, that pan drip leg should be 1 pipe diameter or 6 inches to the ground.
Not a plumber but have done water heaters and that’s the one that jumped out at me
Serious question as you seem like you know what you are doing, but why do people use pipe dope AND tape when the companies that manufacture these products don’t say to do so? I would think if it somehow helped then they would want you to buy both because it would be more money in their pocket. But nowhere on any instructions have I seen the recommendation to do both? Is this just some old wives tale that plumbers continue to practice ? Not trying to be critical just curious where this line of thinking comes from. Great video, per usual . Subscribed
So I have been watching your videos for awhile now and I really enjoy them, I have been a journeyman plumber for 8 years now. The trend of CZcams plumbers is out of hand I just watched this guy chakmantheking and I thought he was trolling but he's not. It is disrespectful to the plumbing community to say that you can plumb but watch the things he does, more are like him and are giving the community false representation of what we actually do. Take a look for yourself and I'm sure your jaw will drop like mine did. Not trying to give this guy a shout out but since I've watched your videos apparently CZcams put all these plumbing repairs in my algorithm.
Long form content is a W
Thanks for watching
Should everyone have a expansion tank? I live in Las Vegas.
Sediment trap should go as close to the appliance as possible
And before the flex line
Savage bro 🤙🏾💪🏾
1:31 you told you caped the return line. Not concerned about a long pipe with ‘death’ water? Or did you cap it close to the last warm water user? Also funny the previous plumber put a pump on the hot water out of the boiler. I would’ve put the pump on the return line. In combination with a temperature controlled valve and a timer, it would’ve been so much better. Nice and easy job. I’m always surprised with putting a pressure cilinder in the hot side, in our region we put back preventing pressure relief valves in the cold supply line.
Same, the tank is on the cold inlet side on my heater. I wonder why some folks install it on the hot side. I think hot water would just degrade it faster?
Tank on cold for sure, definitely downgraded someone's hot water system. Dielectric unions👀 how does that sediment trap work👀 isn't gravity involved? There's a difference between installers and technicians
Hey man ive been wondering where do you work out of?
Could it have something to do with how close the copper pipe is to the outlet? Grabbing at straws
Love it!
Thanks!!
Hey replumb, can I used a rigid press tool for rls crimp heads?
@Replumb can I get a list of those tools you used? Please thank you
Code violations are not putting wood 2x4 behind it and not insulating the water lines and not putting grounding clamps and bonding wire
Don’t need the 2x4s or the bonding wire
Unless you get a real A-hole of a inspector
So do I get bonus points?
@@replumbfor pex or cpvc no but copper or galvanized, you need a bonding jumper. Those water lines get energized and shock someone, guess who getting sued...not the inspector that missed it
Where’d you get that dolly?
Gueses for code violation in CA. pan drain is suppose to exit garage? Bottom strap is a couple inches too high? no straps on expansion tank? metal nipple going into plastic threads? 3 screws per vent connection?
Am i close???
Nope. Insulation on the water lines. (But you can only use a small amount because you can’t be within 6” of the vent)
Have you had any issues with the expansion tank in that orientation?
Amtrol specs them nipple up.
No. I’m not using Amtrol
@replumb
I noticed that but was curious. I have used Amtrol for years with no issues and mounting them in various orientation. I am not sure when they started the upright spec or why.
Errr That expansion tank should be supported
I’m gonna guess the bottom earthquake strap is not 1/3 and impedes nomenclature on the water tank.
Eeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrr
No it would pass
Can you do movie reviews?
Do you always take the plastic pieces out of the nipples on the Bradford white water heaters? I do they suck makes it leak! Lol
No grounding clamps?
3" vent was the violation
Nope
@replumb hay boy, you get off my job site! In my day, we used a pale of water on the wood stove to heat our water. We didn't use no fancy contraption to heat our water for us!
Is that a green handle knipex plier wrench? I’ve never seen a green one
Knipex X Reca
Pressure relief pipe must be visible.
Not in CA. Has to terminate on the exterior
@@replumb o wow, cool
@@kylekelley213 yeah. It is cool.
You didn’t strap the expansion tank
Hey boi you didn’t secure that expansion tank.
undefeated like I said
You have the best videos and best sense of humor (other channels are coping your style). Plumb on fellow plumber.
@@replumbdoesn’t mean it’s done right
Code violation: Non gfci outlet near water line 😢
That's an existing receptacle outlet, not required to be changed to GFCI. Now install a tankless or heat pump and use that receptacle outlet, guess what you now need
My water tank doesnt produce enough hot water to fill my jacuzzi tub. Shout i get a larger tank or is there a tub heater that can be connected inside the tub enclosure? Great vids btw. Thanks
Love those new construction or big bathroom additions I see with 90 gallon jacuzzi tubs and a 50 gallon water heater 🤦♂️
Hi! What is the name of the blue stuff you apply on threads? Thanks!
PTFE tape and Megaloc thread sealant! I just showed how to use them on my recent short, good luck!
Hey boi, I like the way you use them voices
Errrrrr shouldn't you leave a thumbs up?
Fine.
You're in cali right? Don't you have to caulk around everything? Lol😂
Did you check the in-house water pressure & then pump up the expansion tank's air pressure to match? Also: there are many YT plumber videos that say that the way you oriented the expansion tank (with water intake at bottom) is "upside down" & "against code". Comment?
The expansion tanks I use say to install vertically. Doesn't specify top or bottom.
My father who is not in plumbing went got a expansion tank in 2018 or 2017 when our old hot water heater broke. We got that and replaced the hot water heater I wanted a drain pan maybe the next upgrade.
The flexible water lines are unprofessional easy way out
Required in CA and other earthquake prone states
legend
What about you creating a dead end by capping off the return line?
what would you have done
@@replumb looped the cold and return together for circulation or installed a new pump so it doesn’t run the risk of legionella
@@user-yc9yq4xw7k who’s buying the new pump?
@@replumb either talk them into it explaining the risk of disease or like I also suggested to tie the loop back in. It will push hot water throughand stop stagnant water just keep the check valve on the cold. One of your responsibilities as a plumber is safety of public health.
The top strap wasn't secured.
Thanks buddy
I think a pan is a grey area if the water heater was on a platform away from the wall then I would say no damage could occur and platform isnt required but a platform like that If an inspector was to say its required not much argument to tell him he would be wrong. also insulate the lines is code. also sediment trap is clearly specefied in the code to be as close to the appliance as practical , So if you ever leave that town and get another inspector your argument can only be that an instalation like that has the sediment trap as close as is practical. My opinion the whole sediment trap thing is bulshit and that it dosent make a bit of differance but thats the code 2016 code would have required the sediment trap to be upstream from the flex line like you are plumbing them. but we aint in that code I dont see mention of that in newer codes I think we are 2022 CPC?
Sediment trap hasn’t changed. Still after shut off valve before appliance flex line
Didnt strap ur gas line to the tank
why would I 🤣
The Code violation is you! Hack!
Hey boy don't use recirc on my job
Forgot eschousions
Errrrrrrrrrr
🦜
Yo it's not legal to put a ball valve on the hot water side you only supposed to do it on a cold water side due to expansion of the hot water
🚔👮🏻……..and the thermal expansion tank is for???
You really are ripping off the customer in material changing stuff that still works. People can’t afford all this fancy material that plumbers are using. Hope you realize that people will catch on to that and not want to hire you. If you have a warranty fine but I hope you are not changing anything on purpose.
Shut the he'll up!!!!!!
What did the gas line look like other side of wall?