Making a new trailer axle
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- čas přidán 18. 01. 2020
- Just new wheel bearings I thought - easy job, done lots of trailers before....
....not this time! Turned out it was cheaper to make up a complete new axle with new hubs, wheels & tyres!
Why?? I hear you shout! Well......you'll just have to watch the video!
Includes a step by step guide to making up a new axle.
Enjoy
Andy
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Thanks for all your support, until next time...
Andy - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Neat to see a person working in metric, wow it makes so much more sense than Imperial here in the states. 40 years ago as a kid we learned metric because the US was to switch over to match the rest of the world, well we never did. Perfect example of our error was the Hubble mirror snafu, some of the telescope was done in Imperial and Metric, the result was a few million dollar oopsie and a few returns using the Space Shuttle. You'd think we would learn. Great video Andy
Thanks :-) Appreciate your feedback. I do really struggle with Imperial, taught the metric system only though sometimes I catch myself saying 'ah, a couple of foot long'....or 'that's about an inch...' cant help myself! Lol
I’ve been a mechanic since the 80s and built many trailers and done similar repairs. Yet I still watched well done.
I bet the 80’s where Magical Times to live in !!!
@@josefastboats5874 I grew up then...it was magical lol
“I still watched” cus of the girls lol
Good Lord bearings are expensive in New Zealand!! You can get those bearings here in the states for around $75 for the pair, just a little more for new hubs with bearings included.
I am just about to start and make a small trailer to tow broken mobility scooters. Your video has helped me a lot. Thank you
In Australia, this type of axle seal is called a marine seal, used mostly on boat trailers. They are designed so you can put a grease nipple (Zerk fitting) on the grease cap and fill the hub and bearings with grease. I build a lot of trailers and my preferred seal even for conventional trailers.
Ah.....great info, very helpful. I didn't know it had a specific name. I can now pass this info on to other viewers that ask. Really appreciate your feedback. Cheers Andy
Subscribed love a straight shooter looking for the best for the customer and proud of the work they do. Great job
I really enjoyed your video! Wasn't even what I was looking for but but could not stop watching. I also have a couple of my wife's horse trailer axles she was previously told were bent. I am a retired architect and luv learning/teaching new things! You made this VERY understandable! Thank You. Hmmm? I have an old wood shop that needs cleaned up between feeden 'n teachen the Kiddies Ski'en. Just finished spliting black locust for the shop stove too! I love projects!
I have a 1970 home built trailer. Axle is pre BMC so older than 1950s. Have the great task of doing bearings and some welding and painting on it. It was built so well and I have been using it daily for over six years for my lawn and gardening business. I found your video very informative and interesting.
Love the repair not replace mantra. Awesome to see people extending the life of their purchases
Very impressive Andy, so good to see anyone being attentive enough about doing the job right and thinking of the rest of the population that could be at risk from shoddy work. No fears with your projects on the road. Thank You
Hoka Hey
I had no intention of watching this whole video... but every time i wanted to fast forward... there was a bit of useful information and tips. Great content, Future me thanks you for all this information!
I’ve never seen your channel before but your intro really caught my attention. The girls are AMAZING!
Subscribed.
Here in the States, the axle is given a counter arc for when there's a load on it to keep the wheels flat to the road.
I've found that brake cleaner spray is a good insecticide for wasps. Can reach from one side of the truck to the other and not get stung.
Thanks for the video.
You just earned a new subscriber. I clicked on the video just because it looked interesting, but the amount of detail you put into the work made me want to sub.
I have a Harbor Freight trailer that I have been wanting to beef up and this axle video showed how easy it will be and how to take of the axle. So thank you.
Love the videos. And the 2020 calendar over your left shoulder.
New sub, Andy! Once I saw the intro, I knew I'd get some info about good lubrication practices and ensuring a proper fit! What a great group of helpers you're training!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
This is a GREAT video for someone making their own axle....no bullshit or foolishness just TO THE POINT...WELL DONE.
Cheers Mark, appreciate your feedback. Thanks Andy
That was great and if you don't have a lathe you can make a jig to hold everything in place. Thank you Andy I learnt something.
Put a drill handle on that battery drill and less chance of sprained wrists. Plus drill at eg waist level so more positive push against the large drill bit.Can use square washers with hole punched to avoid drilliing keeper holes in axle tube as well.
You did a smart and excellent job. Really enjoyed that. Thanks for solving all the problems and issues to observe before fabricating the finished axle.
With this pandemic we have time enough to learn something new, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the feedback Arnold :-)
Very excellent video. Glad you didn’t put a lot of fluff and stuff very good one of the better ones I’ve ever seen. I’m doing this job on a trailer I got and I’m just gonna cut the axles in half and re-tube them.
Thank you for this info. I need to do the same thing for my trailer
Mate didn't even skip a second and watched it right to the end
The outer race is an SAF Holland race. Still in business. They make trailer axles. Maybe bearing was replaced at some point but race wasn't?
Really enjoyed watching this video, I have been doing up trailers for years. I would have done the spring mount a little different. I would have welded a plate on rather than drilling into the axle. But all told an excellent job.
I wasn't looking to make a trailer axle, but this video was pretty cool! Great work!
Seeing the pin up girl in the background at the end was worth the video by itself! Nice axle.. I will be buying a factory made one and bolting it on. Now I need to find a pin up girl poster. bwuahahahaaa
That Förch calendar at your shop is awesome
lol! never seen this guy...20 seconds in and this guy knows how to sell it!
I would say spot on! Job well done!
Spot on
Good job most trailer axles have a small amount of camber in it. Some time you can just put a weld in the center of the axle and heat shrink it. Cheers
For centering/squaring I can picture 2 tapped holes on each flat face of square tube. 2 bolts like a set screw to adjust in/out for a total of 8 around tube. Measure length of bolts protruding and center the spindle inside. Snug down bolts. Weld then remove bolts 1 by 1 and add more welds in hole.
In case anyone is wondering, the Drill Doctor does actually work well and quickly for sharpening these bits.
MrMotofy: I replaced an early Ford dropped I-beam axle for a trailer I bought in '72, although it was still in very good condition I decided to replace the beam and everything else with a new square tube axle, etc., since my Wife bought a new Harley Trike after we paid off our mortgage a few years ago and wanted to carry it in style when we go out of State to visit my daughters.
I like your idea about securing the square shaft against the inside of the tube, since I've done this as well, but after drilling the shaft on the top and the aft end of the tube, I thread the spindle and then weld it in place after making sure it is as Square as it can be and then run a light weld around all four bolts to ensure they never come loose, ( 2 on the top and 2 on the back wall of the axle since this is where the spindle will be pressed-up against due to rearward pressure exerted against the spindle and doneard pressure against it as well which results in the spindle resting against the inside top wall of the axle.
This way there will never be any problems with the spindle working it's way out of alignment.
You make it so completely simple. Thank you so much.
I have always preferred my stub to have a tight fit in the hole, hell I've even been known to flip it over and shove it in the other hole. I have found sometimes I have to push really hard to get it in but a little patience and persistence will usually get it in there. I'm not sure why but sometimes it helps if I stick a finger or two in there before insertion. The most important thing is to make sure that both holes are very clean before I stick anything in them.
Lmao! Awesome! :-)
same with building an axle i guess lol
Very informative very detail-oriented one of the best how to videos I've watched bravo
What I do to parallel the stubs in the tube is drill a hole on the corner of the tube and tack weld a nut. put a bolt in it to squeeze the stub into the opposite corner. weld in my rosettes on the side the stub is toward first then the other two. then weld the stub perimeter.
Grind off the nut and weld the hole shut after.
That'll work :-)
Hi Andy. Watching this video, when you made a comment about someone welded the plate to the axle. I own a horse trailer which has a similar setup as that axle and the plate welded to the axle and bolts sandwiching the springs. Many years ago I removed that plate and replaced it with u bolts. Some of the older trailer companies said in the 1970's this is how axles were made.
Tucson, Arizona USA subbed and liked. Now I have some binge watching to do. Thanks and stay safe🍺👍😷
Excellent well detailed video my friend. Your accent, phrases, and mannerisms are remarkably more closely English and American than Australian. I was very surprised by them.
Ah...that's because I'm English, from Yorkshire. Moved to New Zealand in 2009.
Pleased you enjoyed the video.
All the best. Andy
Total price 😊 cheers…
Grand job Andy, I'm doing my trailer axle at moment. Steve, Nottingham.
Cheers Steve, have fun :-)
Hey Andy ,Nice Job ,I was looking for trailer axle videos and found your's ,glad I did ,thanks from Canada >
Many thanks for the feedback Yves, I'm pleased you found it helpful. Good Luck with your project. Cheers Andy
Tip. Use shims . Thin plates. . U can drill all holes on small bit fist all of them and than all with the large bit. Saves time. I like that u do a great job.
Thanks, great tip. Cheers Andy
Excellent video very detailed, step-by-step detail explained very well thank you!
Hey man, great Job, thinking of building one, will let you know how it goes. Love your work. Thanks.
I have made quite literally hundreds of trailers over the years (I used run a company manufacturing trailers) when I first started if I was fitting stubs to beams I would tack nuts on where the plug welds went and that way it was possible to square the stub up by adjusting bolts tack them in then remove the bolts and nuts and fill the plugs. Later on I made jigs for the job even made up neidhart suspensions before going over to coil overs which gave better ride and handling and also allowed for tracking adjustment. The very first trailer I made (a horse box hence the name here) in 1974 used transit front hubs and I turned the stubs up on a lathe,this was before I started commercially although it was what got me started as people kept asking me where I got and when I said I built it they started asking me to make one for them.
1:17:10 the standard unit of all measurements in the universe. Great video!
A fine job -- the trailer is now ready for service for many years
Awesome video Andy. Very informative..
Enjoyed the video! Great video and watched it entirely :)
alignment can be achieved by using shims between the stub insu=ide the square tubing 3 sides only needed. do your weld and then side the shims out.
Use old race --thin edge to the new race and drive it in --always works and no damage to new race
ugh....what a pain.... gotta love Tractor Supply Co in the states. complete 3500lb trailer axle 5 lug $219usd.
One thing I would mention is what are you using for wire? I remember getting a welder that came with a roll of flux core. I didn't think much about it, and we were using argon and standard wire. The polarity of the weld cables needs to be switched between the use of the 2 different types of wire. Switching that on that welder between the 2 different wires way back that solved the problem. It sounds to me like if that isn't the problem the wire speed is to fast or the welder isn't up to the task of welding metals that thick. I had a welder that wasn't up to the task of welding things as thick as I was welding and often used a torch to bring the heat up.
Thanks Robert, this was filmed a while ago now. The issue turned out to be a poor ground. I have since upgraded the power supply to the workshop & now have a dedicated 40 amp, 240v AC supply for the Mig, these two changes have completely eliminated the issue thankfully!
Appreciate your comment. I have never used flux core welding wire, always use plain 0.8mm wire & Argon gas.
All the best
Andy
Aha, you've struck the same problem I have with the trailer I built 50 years ago. The Timken 1997X/1922 and LM 11949/11910 are imperial sizes and from Ford Zephyr and Consul 1956 onwards, so I'm sure these were Zephyr hubs and stubs welded on. Off the shelf trailer units weren't available in NZ back then, so we had to use car components from the scrapyard. I did think of making up a whole new axle as you did, but my axle is a 3 inch drop using the Mk 1 Zephyr bolt on stubs, which were very popular for kiwi trailers back in the day. The LM 11949/11910 are easy to find and not expensive, and I watched ebay UK for a few months until I picked up a couple of NOS 1997X/1922 combos that had been sitting in workshops for years for about £20 plus a few pounds postage each. They are available new but as you found, horrendously expensive. You certainly did the right thing for your customer. You certainly couldn't spend a few months solving the problem fairly cheaply as I did.
Thanks Brian, awesome info, I'm sure some of the viewers will be grateful for your knowledge. Yes, I do believe I did the right thing for the customer although they were not particularly happy with the cost in the end even though it probably worked out a bit cheaper & a far better setup. You cant win them all!
Cheers Andy
Brake Clean will kill the wasps even faster. I would like to make myself a trailer, but I lack the proper welding equipment to do it unfortunately. Most seals I have seen here in the U.S. are driven into the hub and not slid on the axle like the one you did. You have to be careful bending the cotter pin over the top like that. Make sure to flatten them down all the way. I have seen the cotter pins touch the cap and tear it apart.
The way ive seen to do axle is fit stubs in. The tube keeps them straight. Tack the end push the stub against one side. Check alignment and bend the axle to correct.
What a great job, great video. I enjoyed it very much. Cheers.
Thanks Brian :-)
nice job, merry 2020!
Just found your channel and joined. Great stuff.
Very helpful video for a lot of applications. Thank you for sharing.
You do fine work Cheers from Jacksonville Florida
To get the stubs concentric with the square axle tube put some rod in each inside corner, they only need to be in a few cm then weld over them.
Yes you will need to work out what dia they need to be, if your lucky it might be a common size rod if not you have a lathe!
Subscribed :)
For centering/squaring I can picture 2 tapped holes on each flat face of square tube. 2 bolts like a set screw to adjust in/out for a total of 8 around tube. Measure length of bolts protruding and center the spindle inside. Snug down bolts. Weld then remove bolts 1 by 1 and add more welds in hole
Thank you for your time👍👌✌️🤙🏻😁
Well loading this up to my workshop tv n better get started,Pokeno NZ....a beer first....for confidence 😁
Good Luck :-)
If you can get PB blaster over there you need to try it it's really good stuff.
THANK YOU DETAIL VIDEO
FROM OZ
I've found that small wasp nests can be dealt with quite quickly with a can of brake cleaner...... Especially if, two or three seconds into spraying you introduce a lit Zippo into the equation. :D
Lol
I just bought a new 45mm solid axle 1955mm tip to tip for $174 delivered . And bought a full hub kit with mechanical brakes for $250 delivered . I've got about 1/2 hrs work welding on the brake plates and spring plates then just fit the axle and wheels .
Seems like a he'll of a lot of work you've got for standard hubs .
That's very good deal indeed. Things are a lot more expensive here in New Zealand, especially due to the inflated shipping costs now.
Great job
Andy
Great information and great video👍
Use a wedge to force the round spindle up and back into the inside corner of the tube. Then use the same corner on the other end.
Good idea :-) Cheers Andy
Good job!
This is the kind of video that made me subscribe to your channel a couple of years ago. Great content - back to form. Not sure you need the TG’s to get views when you have content like this! 👍🏼
Good job. Thanks. i only got worried when you were drilling the axle and you did not secure the axle on a bench vice to avoid injury. all in all im happy with your workmanship. i worried the drill might twist the axle.
I subscribed as soon as the babes started rolling through before I even saw if this video was going to be of any use to me at all 🤷♂️
Cool, thanks for the video
hahaha...always a pain in the ass putting the cap....had the same problem...
Andy, great channel. I'm a auto parts guy in the States. The LM11749/11710 is still common here. Timkin # Set 1 or BCA # A1. The others are usually sold separately. Like I saw someone else post, just older imperical measurements.
Thanks Ed, yes, it seems like the bearing guy here that priced it all up didn't really do a very good job & price was crazy high!
Pleased you enjoy the channel - livestream on Sunday 8.30am NZ time :-)
And it maybe more about availability on your side of the globe...lol
You have the old axel so I always place parts side by side, mark them and save all the measuring and lost time, as long as spring holes are the same ans the machined area for the seals are there you have it made.
The rims & hubs are of a different spec too (different off-set on the rims) & measurements had to be bang on or tyres would have protruded beyond the wheel arches. I had to take all the measurements before I could cut the box section axles down to the required length first.
Cheers Andy
The 2 components of a taper roller bearing are called the cup and cone and have different part numbers. The LM 11949/11910 is a very common wheel bearing assembly readily available at Repco, BNT, TWL etc.
Thanks John, I still question why the bearing suppliers struggled to match up the original bearings & put in such a high price for what they did find?
The job turned out much better given that new wheels & tyres were needed too. It's on easy to find components now so will be much easier to maintain moving forward :-)
Thanks for your feedback. Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic I agree, was a good upgrade, but your bearing supplier is taking the piss mate 👍🏿
No longer my bearing supplier! For this very reason! Thanks John.
Andy
Spring is in the air!
Like your work Andy new to your channel love garage repairs myself ,used to race superstocks here in nelson , cheers, shaneo nelson, nz
Cheers Shane, thanks for the great feedback - it's good to know the videos are helpful.
I have never really raced but do get to meet lots of very talented riders with my day job
Cheers for now
Andy
I love that clamp. Wow
You obviously take a lot of pride in your work! Great job, new axle looks like it was factory made!
Take a piece of braided copper wire and just wad it up and put under the original ground clamp when you clamp it to the metal. That way you will have many points of contact.
Great job
love all your helpers
Nice job andy ..
too late now but TL;DR it is/was common to stock only one type of size/make of common axle types and mix and match inner outer bearings to fit what ever was needed to avoid having otherwise multiple identical taking up extra space.
so what most end up doing only having the axles of just one manufacturers type instead
ford axle > ford inner bearing/race > ford outer bearing/race > ford hub
ford axle > ford inner bearing/race > holden outer bearing/race > holden hub
ford axle > ford inner bearing/race > toyota outer bearing/race > toyota hub
inefficient way (ford axle, ford bearings, ford hubs) (holden axle, holden bearings, holden hubs) etc...
ford/holden/toyota
5ft (35mm round/square, 40mm round/square, 50mm round/square)
6ft (35mm round/square, 40mm round/square, 50mm round/square)
7ft (35mm round/square, 40mm round/square, 50mm round/square)
8ft (35mm round/square, 40mm round/square, 50mm round/square)
32 combo for just one manufacturer, triple that for stocking 3 common maufacturers
and the only reason i found out, and that it was a semi common thing was it come up as a remark and the bearing stop "oh so thats a ford inner and a holden outer, no wonder why i was confused on the sizes not being all whole numbers etc..."
I don't know when New Zealand went metric but that trailer axle was probably made either before or during transition and in Imperial sizes (feet and inches).
In Britain, one side would be a left hand thread on stub (at least when I made a couple of trailers in 1980's)
Tack weld one of the plug welds only, then it's easy to move stubs around to get them concentric
You may find an old leather sofa or chair thrown out sometime, cut out some leather 'sheet' to use over lathe bed or anything else that meeds protection from spatter. Use old engine oil on leather to help protect stuff from rusting, I tend to cover lathe chuck and bed if I won't be using it for a few days (Florida is real high humidity #often 90+%.
Drill bits seem to be rubbing and not cutting clean?
Thanks for the tips, very helpful indeed. I'll keep my eye open for an old leather sheet, great idea & will definitely save the lathe!
Cheers Andy
Good video. That was a very smart way to get the two stub axles to line up together.I am as much as a perfectionist as I can be with the resources I have and I was wondering how you were going to get them exact. Also, years and years ago while working on a vessel, another engineer said to me the same thing, that welding doesn't sound right. By coincidence, that guy now lives in NZ.
Cheers, yep, I like to do the best job I can with what I have available. Time taken really doesn't come. E in to it - I just work a longer day. Job satisfaction is important to me.
I'm sure the Mig will come right when the 200 Amp supply is finished :-)
Cheers for now
Andy
4 pieces of wire in "L" shape can slide along each corner of the tube to centre the hub as you push it in place
The axle tube needs to have a crown put in the tube. The center of the tube should be about 18mm higher than the ends.
Thanks for the comment but I disagree, in England & New Zealand the axles are made from straight box section unless it's a boat trailer where the centre of the axle has a V in the middle section to allow clearance on the hull.
On a side note, with this video been made for the DIY Trailer builder can you imagine how difficult it would be for them to ensure the two ends of the axle were parallel if they were to do as you suggest?
Thanks again for your input & it's not often I take a strong standing on my views but I hope I have explained my reasons why
Thanks Andy
@@AndyMechanic I set up my axles with 1/8 toe in but have never added any camber
Good Video Excellent set up
Great detail on the build. Love the accent
Thanks Jeffrey
Hi Andy I do a bit of welding still learning my brother in law is a professional welder he also said my welder does’t sound right , I was tig welding he checked my polarity was wrong with out gas my ground should be on + positive when not using gas and the clamp should be as close as possible to the work area , but I think it’s a more practic for me , l really enjoyed watchING THANKS AL.
Thanks Al, pleased you enjoyed the video & the tip on the polarity aspect. I always run gas, Argoshield universal to be accurate so it's not a polarity issue. I'm confident it's likely to be with the current power supply to the workshop - the new 200 Amp supply should be up & running in the next few weeks so I'll probably do a short video showing the improvement (hopefully there will be!)
Cheers for now Andy
I didn’t think it was bad at all for a lite duty trailer. I doubt you drive it heavy loaded at 70mpg for hundreds of miles. Grease the bearings, tighten, back in use.
Metal drilling, slower RPMs, more oils is normal. Bits seem to last better.
How much weight does the square bar hold?
I know the leave springs have a weight rating. Does the bar have a weight rating?
Excellent !
Hy Andy. You need to slow down that drill so you can drill faster ! How have you been? Fancy seeing you here, last time I saw you was when you still worked for Paul! Rgds, Henk