Car Trailer Rebuild, How to Increase the Load Capacity of your trailer
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- čas přidán 22. 05. 2023
- This video is a complete overhaul of my 18 foot car trailer with a bunch of upgrades while I am at it. I have had this trailer for about 6 years and it has served me well hauling my rigs all over the country. But after installing the drive over fenders I decided that rebuilding this trailer is a much better idea that replacing it. At the same time I will be upgrading the trailer using a set of twin 5K axles from Lippert with brakes at all 4 wheels.
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Use a spare spindle to mount the spare. So you have spare parts when needed
Had that on my old trailer
That's a great idea. Especially as far as he drags this trailer.
Wouldn't this destroy the bearing long term?
@@ShopJock oil bath bearings need to be rotated, so yes. I can’t see how this would be an issue with grease packed bearings.
@@ShopJock
Lock the tire so it doesn’t move.
I could watch trailer modification videos on a never ending loop. Nothing like having a great trailer setup & I love seeing other people’s ideas & execution.
Great job on this one, I really liked the lighting setup!
So far it has been a game changer!!!
A few things I think you should add:: Gussets to the spare tire mounts. Vibrations can crack welds over time. LED lights inside of the fenders, toward the outer lip. If you've ever lost a bearing on the road at night, well, you know exactly why I'd add them. Last, I'd hang the license plate sideways on the drivers side fender, rather than have it getting trashed on trails and such. Mine is where yours is, but my frame sits higher for the light. It would have been great to end the video with the trailer hooked to your truck with something on the trailer at night, showing the deck lighting and how useful it really is....
I will keep an eye on them
i like the LED’s inside the fender, neat trick.
I love the honesty in the axle part but honestly we are all stoked that you have people that support you. I love the onx content also. Rooting for Nate and Dave!
Nice rebuild. A couple of points to consider. Two 5,000 lb axles does not mean 10,000 lbs of cargo. It means 10,000 lbs pounds including the trailer itself and the load. You need to weigh your trailer empty so you know how much cargo capacity you have left.
Additionally tire pressures are relative to the load which they are carrying to a point. 40 psi is probably good for medium to lighter loads but to access the full weight rating on a tire, you need to use the maximum tire pressure listed on the tire.
Last, the center lights will be a great addition if you only haul rolling loads with center clearance. However, if you haul stuff that would put any weight on the center of the trailer, especially if it is stuff that will slide or have to be drug on or off, all your hard work and money will be quickly destroyed. I’m sure you evaluated your specific intended use when you added that feature. I only mentioned it for others who may be thinking about that modification. For me, I use my trailer for hauling all kinds of stuff from rolling loads, to scrap metal and those lights would be destroyed within the first couple of uses. The lights by the spares will be perfect though. I also add bright back up lights to the back end of the trailer because I always end up backing up in the dark and trailers are miserable to back in dark areas without back up lights.
Again, nice rebuild!
that is only partially correct as well as the tow vehicle also supports some of the load.
One other mention. Just adding bigger axles does not give you more capacity. There were not structural upgrades (in fact cutting the cross brace where the tongue jack is I would say is a down grade, due to additional twist being allowed in the tongue from having only plate replace it. ) Most people have a tendency to overload their trailer as it is, so thinking you can now add more is dangerous thinking. At best he got a bit better braking and made up for the added weight of the winch and batteries and heavier axles.
@ Mark Meier: Trailer capacity ratings have nothing to do with the tow vehicle. The weight rating of a trailer does not increase or decrease based on what vehicle it is attached to. The trailer has its own weight capacity rating based on its construction. It is up to the operator of the tow vehicle to make sure they are using a vehicle with a tow rating high enough to pull the loaded trailer and that the load on the trailer is situated in such a way that the tongue weight also does not exceed the capacity of the tow vehicle.
like reading these mister-know-it-all comments telling the guy how to do it.
@@PeeterPuncher one more of my know it all comments🤣🤣🤣but heavier axles does not change the gvwr the manufacturer put on it. And heaven forbid dot ever checked and you are overweight
Great job on this one-of-a-kind trailer build! As you broke down the $3,000 savings to build it yourself vs. bying a new one loaded out I couldn't help noticing one thing missing in the calculation... you would probably sell the existing trailer for at least $3k if you bought a new one.
That said, this trailer turned out better than a new one and it's the only one just like it. It was still worth it!
good to see you again after years of watching you build the rock crawlers
Some people make a center strip of removable boards so they can use the trailer like a lift so they can work on the underside of the car if necessary. This is handy if you need to do repairs at the race track. If you don't have a trailer brake disconnect, sometimes it is easier to mount the junction box closer to the trailer lights behind the rear most axle, to shorten wiring runs to trailer/running lights and brakes. After finishing the wiring in the junction box, fill the interior of the box with regular wheel bearing grease. This will prevent water and salt from getting to the connections and shorting them out, particularly where they salt the roads. It is also a reservoir of grease that you can use if you have to repack a wheel bearing out on the road.
This is a great addition. Thank you for this.
An upgrade option I have found useful is under trailer reverse lighting place a couple of flood lights aimed back at a 20-30 degree outward angle from the tongue as well as a pair just under the tail lights that can be powered on in when in reverse or switched to turn on constant. Another add on option would be a removable telescopic tower light that could be stored in the tongue box as well as a drop light (you could wire up for multiple power spots and tower mount locations (could use the stake pockets as tower mounts) as well universal power ports for the tower and drop light).
Old boss of mine put lights down the center of trailer and every time some one threw and chain across the deck they broke a light. flat leds might work but they were not available then. great stuff keep up the good work.
As a Trailer parts supplier I have helped thousands for people do what you are doing, One thing i see all the time is a hub failing because of lack of maintenance , one thing I did on my trailer for the spare tire is use a spindle and an idler hub for the spear tire mount, therefore I have a ready to go hub in case I have a bearing fail on the road and i catch it before it destroys its self. You put your springs on backwards, the strap that goes around the spring needs to be pointed to the front because under breaking that strap holds the spring pack together the way you have them it will shorten the life of the spring and break over time. Why not go with 6k Axles same fitment and if you ever wanted to upgrade the tires the hardware would be ready. Why not rewire to industry standards? That spare is most likely bad because of time in the sun look at its color it is grey that means that tire does not have the elasticity is needs I Have seen many spare tires on trailers separate just because they were on the carrier in the sun and never ever run.
I seen the same thing on the springs. And the shackles were over center but I’m sure that was corrected when it was set down judging by the wheel to fender clearance.
But I agree with changing the wiring how Ian did. If you ever have to replace your 7 pin plug and wire it by the colors on the new plug it won’t match whatever that RV standard is. I’ve noticed all RV wiring is like what came with that junction box and it defies all my trailer logic. Wish they would all just pick a lane and stick to it.
After 20 years of working on over the road trailers with the 7 round pin ATA plug, and G'ds color code; I took a part time job at an "Auto and truck shop"... A car trailer came in needing new tailights... It was wired in the "RV" "standard... The Satanic wiring drove me insane...
I have seen People do stupid stuff to wires. In my time of services. One guy even went as far a hooking his brake wire to a reverse wire so if something tried stealing his trailer. The moment he reversed it would lock the brakes up 😂
Not to mention, if the tire psi says 65 psi on the side ,then 65 psi is what you run all the time . They are not like car tires.
@joshuavanalst2365
That turned out amazing…..the lights running down the center are genius!! Great stuff as always Ian 👊🏻👊🏻
Super cool Ian...keep the awesome videos rolling man!
I might have been inclined to run some plastic loom on the wiring going through the drilled holes on the frame...I hate wiring issues too. LOL
Or run it through garden hose..
MY first thoughts of seeing this was where is the pipe to run the wires in ?
I really enjoyed the episode of your rebuild.
The lights in the floor were a game changer.
Keep up the great work, and as always, be safe in your adventures.
I always liked leaving the middle strip open so you can tie down to the cross members when need be.
Rad!! Most people unfortunately would probably toss it and buy new. Glad to see someone promoting reuse rebuilding etc.
No swnse replacing when rebuilding better is an option...
@@BigTireGarage The center lights was the best part can you show how it looks at night?
Another note on the wood decking, mount the boards with the crown up. So if your looking at the end of the board, the growth rings will make a "C" shape, you want the top of the C at the top, and the 2 ends facing down. This will help prevent the wood from holding as much water, prolonging the life of the wood. Also for people that don't know, just because you put a higher weight capacity axle under your trailer does not increase the "legal" capacity. If you get stopped of checked by DOT they are only going to go by the data plate/sticker on the tongue of the trailer and they could punish you with anything from a ticket to impounding your trailer or anything in between. (Not saying I agree with that, just a warning to those that may not know.)
To add to this comment, speaking of the DOT,
ANY TRAILER rated 1 pound over 10,000 lbs, pulled by
ANY VEHICLE UNDER 26,000, lbs., is required the driver to be licensed with a Class A, CDL.
Got that? You must be legally licensed to operate a semi down the highway.
Wait, there's more! IF your tow vehicle + trailer combined gross over 17,000 lbs. Your required to have a Combination licensed plate on the tow vehicle $500. + plate.
If you fail to aquire and pay for this and get stopped, they take your truck weight, add your trailer and the contents weight, and add those figures to total gross weight overload fine on your tow vehicle. Basically, you're going to jail, and you might as well handover the title of your rig to pay the fine.
On my 10,000 GVW trucks, I pull 7,000 lb trailers to stay under that magic 17,000 Combination number.
One more thing, yes, there's more!
If you have one of these fancy crew cab, 4x4 dually, loaded for bear tow rigs with a GVW over 10,001 lbs, DON'T CROSS ANY STATE LINES w/o a
DOT # with the sticker numbers on the doors. You'll have some face 2 face time with the judge about you being in business.
Just stay under the 10,000 limit. This is why you're seeing these newer trailers rated at 9,950 GVW now.
Hope this helps.
I always found it strange that no one ever paints the metal cross pieces under the wood.
Exactly if it's apart paint it... paint is cheaper than repair/replacement once it rusts out
I always do, not going to get another chance later, seems like a no brainer
Love it
Ian
Can you show how you strap up your rig with this configuration
And maybe some pictures of the trailer at night with the lights on.
Keep up the content ❤
You are beyond belief amazing even though you put everything on a video I don't believe I can follow all that video introduce such an amazing job as you have you're amazing you're amazing now the lights in the middle of the floor you know it got to love it
I like adding some tubing to the center of the wheel mounts to support it while you line up the bolt holes. You can use round or square, just so long as you place it after mounting the first time so that it supports the rim instead of the lugs.
did that when I mounted tires inside the enclosed trailer on a rack. Makes it a lot easier to place it on and then spin it to line up the holes. I did use welded-through bolts. being the same thread, if you lost a lug nut, the spare had 3 available.
Excellent video with clear and valuable advice. Thank you for taking the time to educate us. One little suggestion, if you connect a small white led marker light to the inside of the toolbox, you won't need a flashlight to search for items at night. Keep safe.
Like that idea as well...
Amazing work. I have been watching since Power Tv days. You are an amazing fabricator.
Great job on rebuild. Wise decision.
i've been a fan of using junction boxes for trailer wiring for a while. they are nice for diagnosis as you said and for repairs and also upgrades should the need arise in the future. the term that I've best heard applied to using them is "future proofing" and it works out great. In addition to that I have also started installing reverse lights into any trailer I rewire because I am flat tired of people rear ending my trailers when I am backing out of a spot. Also as a semi professional grease monkey myself, I have to recommend the butt connectors I've been buying for years now. they are in effect a non-insulated connector that has heatshrink pre-installed on them. they make them in butt connectors and fork lugs and ring lugs and spades and even bullet connectors too.
The heavier axles are great, but if the frame was rated for 7k, you still have a 7k trailer. Yes, you can overload it, and on smooth roads you could get away with more weight. But, if you load it heavy and hit a washboard and get it hopping, the frame might not like it.
He could have ran a support down the middle of the trailer from the tongue to the rear of the trailer, it helps ten fold, mine works really nice with two pieces of 2" pipe running front to back
Just a little picky but 2 3500 pound axles cannot haul 7000 pounds, you can only haul 7000 less the weight of the trailer. Likewise 2 5000 pound axles can only haul 10,000 less the weight of the trailer. Thanks for your video! Gave me the push to rebuild my trailer.
Like some others have mentioned, using spindles to mount the spares gives you a little backup if ever needed. You might think about getting some spare tire covers to help the spare last a little longer by blocking the UV. I think I'd have either stained or varnished the decking too just to help keep it looking good, plus it'd be easier to clean up if you get grease or oil on it. Great video, thanks for showing how to get things done for a great price, now if I only had a shop full of killer tools like you have.
The lights look awesome! Also smart and practical.
add a 20 amp circuit breaker to the aux power in the junction box...that will protect your connectors and truck wiring in case you try to work the winch with the trailer wires still connected and a low battery
Love that idea!!
what I would have done with the center strip is get a channel iron welded in web side down with flanges up and then put in weld on D rings in the bottom of the channel and maybe some E track mounts too. then a guy would have center tie downs that do in interfere with any load
That would be pretty sweet...but it wasn't a perfect 6" wide...the flat bar covers the edges of th boards
For like 8 months I had a truck and trailer and let me tell you, it’s incredible. It’s such a game changer! I seriously miss the hell out of my truck and trailer. I hope that one day I’ll have the money to buy another setup and I’d love to do some great customization to my trailer like you have yours!!!
Great video, my trailer rebuild started as a deck replacement and ended up like yours short of new axles. I think the most important thing I did was add reverse light under the brake lights. I also added, like I see on yours, a metal trim, 1/4 angle, around the lights to protect them from damage by "friend using the trailer".
Damn! You did it again Ian. That was a great video!
Besides my current interest in rebuilding a trailer, you touched on every aspect and continued throughout the whole process (as you do on all your vids). ✌️😁👍
The added center lights are "flipping" BA!
I did the same as trucks, mounted the spare under the trailer using the system from a pickup.
Next upgrade will be onboard air compressor. the box already has solar charger for the onboard battery. The trailer is pretty much self contained.
That would be a cool idea as well
I have that SAME trailer and it needs to be rebuilt.... WOW! LOVE IT
Dang, that finished trailer looks amazing.❤. Love the finished job.
Nice trailer. I am surprised the jack mount is 1/8" material. The one you cut off was way more beefy. Hope it works.
Here where we have lots of snow, those wires run cross-member to cross-member would get loaded up with snow and ice and pulled down and apart. We have to run the wire along the "C" channel here.
Wood planking will last a long time if you do nothing. If you put a coat of linseed oil on it every year or two, it will outlive you.
Lights down the center are cool enough. But they are clearly not flush mounted. You will hate them when you drag frames and pieces of vehicles up onto the trailer with your winch, getting hooked on them and ripping them out of the trailer.
I was confused on the 1/8" plate also. Don't know I would trust it for the winch mount.
I have a 1/4" plate, and two 1/4" wall 2" tubes on my winch mount (10,000 lb). It's gotten all bent up over the years. My trailer sits alot higher, so there is probably some additional stress added to the plate...but there is no way 1/8" would survive. Seems sketchy, to save maybe $30 in steel.
@@jonathonschram3429 I wasn't as concerned for the winch plate, since the forces are along the plate. But 3/16 would be my minimum.
For the trailer jack however, the forces are up in the middle of a significant span, and the 1/8" plate will bend right away.
I'm sure Ian figured it out off-camera. Maybe all he had on hand at the time of the filming was 1/8.
Just an FYI- something I learned a while ago is your axle cap is 10k Gross. Meaning 10k minus the weight of the trailer. 10k worth of axles minus a 2500lb trailer (guesstimate) means you have a 7500lb capacity trailer.
Just wanted to make mention of it as it was something I learned, and something I noticed you say in the video more than once. Otherwise great build up! Love trailer mods
Thanks for sharing. its great to see how you can up grade a trailer that you already have
Been a fan since E4x4 and just found your channel. Subscribed!
Been debating upgrading my car hauler with twin 5k axles from 3.5k axles ….. you helped me decide
I’m working on one now to haul quads. It was a old boat trailer, thanks for the video and ideas. Like the idea of lights on the deck! That’s going to to be helpful.
Great Video! Nice floor lights!!🏁Thanks for sharing the cost breakdown too.
I see someone else said many people don’t paint the cross pieces under the wood but why when you had the trailer apart didn’t you take a couple extra hours to apply a rust converter to all metal surfaces & paint them? That would have truely been a rebuilt trailer that would look like it is new! Other than not giving it a coat of paint,nice job!
For the wire connection check out these new things I found. They are heatshrink with solder all built in one. No crimping needed and just need a heat gun. I used them rewiring my trailer. Up here in Ohio I see lots of snow and rain. Those seal out the weather and give a great connection. Thank you for the great content please keep on sharing.
I just got some of those in the shop gonna give them a try
Amazing thanks for all the great ideas
I am old school dont have a CNC machine but that rocks!!!
I’m so glad to find this channel!
I didn’t know you were doing this so I subscribed and will have to go to the start and watch all your videos! I always love watching anything you’re making
Welcome aboard!
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽 love the lights in the floor. Great idea
This editing style of video is the way to go. Less focus on talking into the camera and use b-roll footage while talking. LOVE THIS VIDEO IAN
Every video is different
Smart Man on the grounds, I have rewired all my trailers and camper and put in a ground for each light.
New subscriber, enjoyed the trailer build. And great ideas to refurbish an existing trailer on the (some what) cheap, but definitely cheaper than buying a new one for sure. Thanks for sharing
deck lights are great, I did it on my latest trailer as well. keep the videos coming!!!
Will do
Great idea on the undermount lights. I am going to steal that idea on my trailer. ;-)
Pacer Group marine wire has high quality wire and heat shrinkable butt connectors, eyelet connectors and more that are sleek and waterproof. Thanks for the video, I always learn something !
The reasoning for the Ground being white wire and black being power, is to follow similar to household wiring. White being common neutral and black resembling the common wire to either your pole or to your breakers! Making all wiring to follow code!
your absolutely right about the old DC trailer wiring black ground and power being white, but in most newer vehicles, trailer system connections run from the fuse box/panel and is a little more sophisticated.
Awesome Build Buddy!
Thanks!
Awesome stuff mate keep it up
I enjoyed this rebuild on your trailer, it will last you many more years. Two things I would of changed, I would use metal valve-stems, and I would put a metal brace under the spare tires for them to set on, just for more support.
Glad you're back Ian.
Never went anywhere..but thanks
Ian, GR8 job. I really like the lights in the middle of the trailer. When I was upgrading my trailer, the company blew holes in the frame for the wires. I drilled them out and ran grommets to protect wires from rubbing. Never had a problem but what if. I have a full wire mess ramp but installed extra set of trailer lights on the ramp. this allows the lights to be higher and more visible. and an extra set if the others quit. I added extra marker lights on the front corners and blinker markers on the side center of the fenders. This allows the person coming up on the next lane to see me coming over if they can see the rear blinkers. A spare spindle is an idea. I had a bearing go out on a trailer many years ago coming back from Zuwharrie and unloaded it and drove home. It was just faster than strapping it up. 8-)
Love them lights up the middle!
Me too!
It’s like I’m watching xtreme4x4 on the power block sundays again!! Soled that I found your channel!
Welcome aboard!
Ian, good to see you're adding brakes! I commented on that last time.
Wish I had a shop like that to do my flat bed in.
Nicely done.
Really enjoyed this one, great work!
Thank you
Another great video! Thanks
Trailer wiring varies a lot. There are at least 10 wiring methods if you include the 3 round, 4 flat, 4 round, 5 flat, 5 round, 6 rectangular, 6 round connectors, 7 round blade (SAE J2863), 7 round (SAE J560) and the 2, 3 or more versions of the J560.
Only standard, all trailer wiring in North America uses white for negative.
The one you bought is non-conventional J560. Even the use of the yellow and green is totally non conventional.
Now, the "standard" 7 wire plugs with round pins SAE J560 uses black for clearance/outline marker lamps, side marker lamps and identification lamps, yellow for left turn, green for right turn, brown for tail & license plate, red for stop/brake lights and blue for the e-brakes.
Your use of the black as +12V is like the SAE J2863 and SAE J560-like plugs and your use of yellow as reverse is also non-conventional, but hey, it's YOUR trailer! As long as you don't lend your trailer, you can "DO IT YOUR WAY" as the song says! 😉
Besides, it's a good excuse for refusing to lend it...😂
You know what they say....if you want more friends...but a boat or a trailer
It used to work to put a 2 5/16" ball hitch on the trailer.
Now everyone has that size ball now.
those center deck lights are nice
Agreed
36:03
Humbly, I would suggest a C channel down the center, with lights and extra tie downs. You can NEVER have too many straps. I agree with the hub for a spare tire holder and i would suggest spare tire covers. I live in the Midwest and road salt is hell on everything. The tire cover will also help deter rust on the lug and rim of your spare.
I never thought of that until it was suggested and its a great idea
Butt connectors with marine heat shrink. Great idea! Dedicated ground wire. Excellent! 2 Spare tires. Very Good! Extra break away battery not needed. Just connect to winch battery. Winch mount. If you make it connect with hitch tubing, you can easily move it if needed. The wiring color coding is standard for RV wiring.
Nice work on the trailer overhaul!
Thank you very much!
That turned out pretty rad
Very cool!
WILSON!!! You came back.
I work on trailers for a living, so white is ground every day, lol.
They also make a 7 wire loom, like the 7 way plug wire you put to the box. Already in its jacket ,just have to splice at different points .
Really as long as your happy with the wiring on your own trailer and it all works. All that matters.
Great rebuild. You got a lot more use out of the decking on yours than I did. A year and a half after buying mine new a truck tire went trough one of the boards on the dove tail. I know it was not sitting on the lot any length of time because I ordered it and picked it up the day it arrived. All the boards on the dove tail were rotten. A few of the main decking are also but I'm trying to get as much use out of them as I can. I am planning on mounting my winch on the trailor also but I have it mounted on a receiver hitch mount. That way I can store it locked down to keep it from being stole. I can also use it for other things not involving the trailor. Thanks for the video I enjoyed it.
Imagine having a horse fall thru a wooden floor in a horse trailer ....as you are running vd9wn the road at 70 mph ... .. urine will rot the floors and it actually happens ... you never even feel it as your towing ..kinda like a bump in the road ... shorty won't win many races after that..neither will stubby.. but they are easier to catch in the field ..
I have a nearly identical trailer myself. It was a trailer that was originally used by a relative to haul farm tractors. I redid the suspension about 6 years ago going from two 4k axles to two 5k axles, I also added two drop legs onto the ramps, LED tail lites, and I went with a full diamond plate steel deck. I added a raised 12k winch mounted to a tower that incorporates the tongue jack. I added a full size battery and box and a similar wiring junction box.
I also built wider, heavier duty 6ft long rear ramps. My spare tires are mounted beneath the deck just ahead of the axles on each side. Over the years I found that works best since it saves the tires from UV damage without the need for tire covers. Removing a spare is as simple as cranking down a cable winch on each side. I didn't add a tongue box since I needed the ability to use that space for overhang on occasion.
The one thing I see that could be an issue with those center mounted lights in the deck is if your dragging something onboard that don't have wheels, the lights can get ripped out of their holes. I had a trailer that had deck lights in the floor but they were in heavy steel cases that mounted flush in deck, they resembled the reflectors they put down the center line of the road but with clear lenses and LED lights. They survived years of dragging farm equipment and junk trucks over them without incident. That trailer had wood down both sides and heavy steel plate down the middle and outer edges with multiple heavy recessed tie down points. I also boxed in my tail lights and under mounted all markers to keep them safe from tie down hooks and chains.
One addition I made to my current trailer is a set of steel inserts to accept deck level pulleys for when the load being pulled is off to one side or the other. I found myself dragging things out of parking places and the woods quite often and being able to drag it clear of where it was found really came in handy. It works well since my trailer is heavy enough to stand its ground in such a pulling situation.
I do like your fenders, which is something I've yet to do on my trailer, I'm contemplating building a custom set of super heavy duty diamond plate fenders that can take the weight of a vehicle if needed. Right now mine are just plain stamped steel. They do the job at hand but I would never stand on them. When the time comes, I'll likely build them similar to how the fenders are made on a cement truck, sort of Jeep style with a heavy back panel and heavy center support.
The fenders on mine are the widest point, which measures a full 102 inches overall. It gives me a full 85" wide flat deck. My trailer was new in 1971.
Lol I like using plastic barrels for fenders .. the blue or black ones 55 gal ... just cut the bottom off the barrel about a foot up .. then split that or cut one side of the circle part free from the bottom .. now u you have a flexible fender that costs nearly nothing .. use the bottom to mount it to the axle or some thing coming from the axle or what ever your mount is .. nif you need to drive on it it just mashes down to the ire and then springs back ..and if it some how gets againt the tire it dosent cut the tire ..
Nice to see somebody do some real work with a real power tool plugged into a wall or an air compressor without a damn battery hanging off the back
Great job
Thanks for sharing
Be well be safe
Good job❤😊
Awesome video!
@bigtiregarage Ive used those junction blocks without the pigtail for 20 years, when rewiring the back of a lot of trucks and jeeps that have had scotchlocks and other splices in their wiring. It’s made fixing light wiring so much easier. (First time I saw these were when I ran a tow truck).
Love the lights, both the center floor mounted and rear facing…
Thanks I used them the othe day...they worked great!!
Nice setup
I just want to add that I truly suggest a good Butane soldering iron. It has been such a wonderful surprise in its handiness and reliability. Mine also blows heat at the tip end that is plenty for heat shrink applications. Great build, brother. Thank you.
Wow! Impressive!
The junction box is using the 7 way RV blade traditional wiring configuration which is the standard for 5th wheel trailers, campers, etc. The wiring colors you are talking about are the SAE J2863 configuration which is industry standard for utility trailers and goosenecks. Not wrong, just different
Good video! I've got a 27 year old trailer I'm about to do the same thing to....rebuild it.
I've been piecing together items to spruce up my trailer. Thanks for some items I haven't thought about.
Give the wood a couple coats of boiled linseed oil (BLO) on all 6 sides of the wood will increase the longevity of the deck. At the very least do the top. BLO can take a long time to dry or you can reduce it.
Ahhaaa, bless you. A man using corded power tools.
What a sweet trailer
Thanks, very happy with how it turned out
This dude is the real life "Heat Miser" brother.
Great video. Will be looking for a power prob.
On commercial trucks and trailers white is ground. And I think that color coding was standardized before the light duty market was since the 7 spade RV connector is relatively new compared to the other trailer connectors. The lights down the center is a pretty genius idea.
Good lunch > fried boloney sandwiches & watchin you do your deal on that trailer! 🖐
I like the idea of a string of lights down the center line of the trailer.
Hey Ian, good to find you on CZcams.
Good call on running a dedicated ground wire. The problem is almost always a bad ground on a trailer.
Hi Ian, I did the same on my car hauler, Went from 3500 lb to 5200 lb axles, bent 2 3500 axles over the years, the brakes went from 10" to 11" brakes, but I went with 16" wheels and tires, load range E, 3350lbs per tire, a little extra carrying capacity because I've never overloaded my trailer!
I went with 15's because I already had two good spare tires....my tires are still rated at 3400 lbs per tire
Well done.