Thanks for the video! I've never had to turn the engine. What I've done is seat the compressed tensioner, hand-tighten the nuts all the way, then loosen the nuts just a little bit (maybe a 1/16 inch) and the tensioner latch releases without fail. You know because as the tensioner releases it pushes against the slightly loosened nuts.
Good call! I think Toyota made it this easy for a reason, SIMPLICITY! Though I’m not sure if it’s noted in the book or worldpac. Like they say.. ‘Keep it simple stupid’
On my 2010 Toyota Corolla repair manual said to release tensioner hook turn crankshaft to counterclockwise then clockwise. Now I have 2016 Toyota Corolla 2xr-fae should turn clockwise to release the hook
@J Wilkers I mean ot makes sense since it's a crush washer but I always have to know for sure. LOL. Welcome to the world of venturing away from old school V8s. Ha ha
Great video! Thank for taking the time to post it here on CZcams. I have a 2009 Corolla high mileage 350,000km same engine. It makes a rattling noise when the engine starts up first thing in the morning. I replaced the timing chain tensioner based on this video. Result engines makes less noise starting up in the morning, should I replace the timing chain and camshaft gear next???
It would be next to impossible for me to tell you accurately if you need to change the chain and sprockets/cam gears. With that kind of mileage on the engine I would suspect that there is a decent amount of chain stretch and in that case I would say yes changing the chain and gears would be a good idea but a mechanic's stethoscope might help you pinpoint where the problem is
@@jwilkers1 Ok, so I got a mechanic’s stethoscope and sure enough the rattle on cold startup is coming from the intake Camshaft Timing Variable Gear. I went to the junk yard and pulled one from a low mileage Corolla 2ZR engine and spent the afternoon installing it. There is actually a TSB from 2009 on this issue …. T-SB-0087-09 - Brief Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup. Part#: 13050-0T010 this exactly the part number of the camshaft timing gear making all the noise on a cold start-up on my Corolla. The junkyard camshaft timing gear is part#13050-0T050 which work perfectly now in my 2009 Corolla. Thanks again for your video.
@@jwilkers1 I was thinking about making a CZcams video on the TSB# and the defective part# that is causing the cold start rattle. You mentioned early in your video that you replaced the motor with a used one. How long did it take you to replace the motor and was it a difficult job to do??
Ardent Fan well it does indicated counter in the factory shop manual. Something about clockwise releases the chain. But yeah...I've seen plenty of videos showing clockwise too.
I'm having problems reinstalling my tensioner. It stops 1/4" out of the bore stopping against the chain guide tension bumper and won't go in any further. Any ideas?
Since you are at that with the valve cover off. Mind as well clean the vvti solenoid filter that is on that first cam rail cap. Once you remove it you will see a black cap underneath that cap rail.
Wilkerson Auto oh no reason i askt is i was get a bit of knocking sound from the top of the engin so i took off the manifold to inspect an i saw the inlet valves wa sitting lower then all the other 3 cylinder..what dose that mean
@@Anoymus985 that would be bent valves, if the lobes of the cam have space between them and the tops of the valves then the valves have most likely struck the piston. I believe on this motor the tops of the valves have metal cups that cover the valve and spring assembly. I can only think of one other possibility but the likelihood of broken valve springs I would consider to be very low. I would be surprised if the vehicle was still running in order to make the tapping sound you were referring to I would have expected a dead miss on at least the cylinder or cylinders that have the valves stuck down. I'm almost 100% certain that this is an interference motor so I would verify timing first and if that is off and the valves are down away from the cam lobes then the head will have to be removed and damage to valves/pistons will have to be assessed.
@@Anoymus985 wait, after rereading that question you seem to be saying you took off the intake manifold and saw that I was thinking you had the valve cover off and saw that, if this is the case then you may be looking at something very normal where the valves are held open at different times to allow intake of air and fuel and then exhaust valves are held open at specific times to release the air and unburnt fuel. The way to verify this is working is to put a large socket and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and turn it slowly by hand in which case you'll see the valves move . I believe I understand what you were asking now if I'm still not understanding your question let me know.
Wilkerson Auto yes that is correct i took of the intake manifold an as u no their are 4 cylinders..an in each one u have 4pistons 2 for inlet an 2 for exhaust..wen i tool the intake manifold off in the 4th cylinder i can see 2pistons which are sitting lower then the others wiche are in cylinder 1.2 &3..i am shore this is not normal as thay are suppose to be in the closed position rite....do u think thay could be stuck an need a loosening up..as wen i start an drive the car is low on power an u can hear it in the cabin that the car is not sounding smooth..
I changed my tensioner because the crush gasket at the base was leaking not for a noise. If you're having a noise issue like a rattle all the way up to 3000 rpm I'd be getting a mechanic's stethoscope ( harbor freight has these for around $4- $5) and listening to front of the motor. You can also remove the belt to eliminate other possible noises but be careful since the water pump won't be turning so only for a couple of minutes. Hope that helps you with some techniques for narrowing down the noise
What the heck? How about start out by saying the year, brand and model of the car? And basically too editing or simply not turning the camera. Don't assume, because not all people understand nor have the money. So we look and ask on the internet. This is not to cut you down.
The make and model and specific engine model are in the video title. The year wasn't nearly as important as the engine identification. If the editing wasn't up to standards understand I'm a technician not a video editor and content was more important to me than specific presentation.
Just an FYI, the part in question typically costs around $40.00 new but you could simply replace the o-ring (for the 1ZZFE) for about $5.00 if it's just to stop oil seepage.
Thanks for the video! I've never had to turn the engine. What I've done is seat the compressed tensioner, hand-tighten the nuts all the way, then loosen the nuts just a little bit (maybe a 1/16 inch) and the tensioner latch releases without fail. You know because as the tensioner releases it pushes against the slightly loosened nuts.
If it works for you and doesn't mess up the timing I'd say go for it.
Good call! I think Toyota made it this easy for a reason, SIMPLICITY! Though I’m not sure if it’s noted in the book or worldpac. Like they say.. ‘Keep it simple stupid’
Thank you for the gasket orientation information.
Thank you for taking the time to document this. 👌
On my 2010 Toyota Corolla repair manual said to release tensioner hook turn crankshaft to counterclockwise then clockwise. Now I have 2016 Toyota Corolla 2xr-fae should turn clockwise to release the hook
Thank you!!! I've been looking everywhere for what way the gasket sits! LOL.
I've been there when one little piece of info is holding up the whole thing, glad I could help.
@J Wilkers I mean ot makes sense since it's a crush washer but I always have to know for sure. LOL. Welcome to the world of venturing away from old school V8s. Ha ha
So both camshafts have to be lined up to timing marks as well as the pulley mark to 0 before you remove & install the tensioner?
Did you have a cold start rattling noise before the repair?
B4 i remove tensioner should align crankshaft yellow mark groove?
good. now i vill be aibel to do this my self.
so wait....you have to have the motor at top dead center? I didnt realize that.
Great video! Thank for taking the time to post it here on CZcams. I have a 2009 Corolla high mileage 350,000km same engine. It makes a rattling noise when the engine starts up first thing in the morning. I replaced the timing chain tensioner based on this video.
Result engines makes less noise starting up in the morning, should I replace the timing chain and camshaft gear next???
It would be next to impossible for me to tell you accurately if you need to change the chain and sprockets/cam gears. With that kind of mileage on the engine I would suspect that there is a decent amount of chain stretch and in that case I would say yes changing the chain and gears would be a good idea but a mechanic's stethoscope might help you pinpoint where the problem is
@@jwilkers1 Ok, so I got a mechanic’s stethoscope and sure enough the rattle on cold startup is coming from the intake Camshaft Timing Variable Gear. I went to the junk yard and pulled one from a low mileage Corolla 2ZR engine and spent the afternoon installing it.
There is actually a TSB from 2009 on this issue ….
T-SB-0087-09 - Brief Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup.
Part#: 13050-0T010 this exactly the part number of the camshaft timing gear making all the noise on a cold start-up on my Corolla.
The junkyard camshaft timing gear is part#13050-0T050 which work perfectly now in my 2009 Corolla. Thanks again for your video.
@@Mojo-cg3xo that's really good news I'm glad you got it fixed and thanks for providing the part #s and tsb #
@@jwilkers1 I was thinking about making a CZcams video on the TSB# and the defective part# that is causing the cold start rattle.
You mentioned early in your video that you replaced the motor with a used one.
How long did it take you to replace the motor and was it a difficult job to do??
Yes replace intake camgear and timing chain and guides. Remove the timing chain cover and do it
I have a 2010 corrola,, 1.8 l. I swore it had a timing belt... i was planning on changing it... but these have chains??
They have chains, yes.
Do you have to turn it counter-clockwise? Seen it done clockwise in some other videos
Yes, This video is correct and agrees with the Toyota repair manual, I don't know how turning clockwise would release the hook.
Everyone says it’s clockwise and I installed one last night and turned the crank clockwise and it clicked normally.
yeah i thought it was counter clockwise too.
@Ardent Fan No, I think youre thinking of a different engine....perhaps an interference belt engine.
Ardent Fan well it does indicated counter in the factory shop manual. Something about clockwise releases the chain. But yeah...I've seen plenty of videos showing clockwise too.
Hello friend, what a good video! I have a question, how can I know if a tensioner is deficient or damaged?
Generally you know by noise from the motor
@@jwilkers1 thanks bro.
at 2000 or 2100 rpm while moving u will hear rattling or grinding sound (grrrrr) ..... sometimes at startup aswell for a sec or 2
I'm having problems reinstalling my tensioner. It stops 1/4" out of the bore stopping against the chain guide tension bumper and won't go in any further. Any ideas?
Did you find about your issue? I am in similar situation.
Какое масло заливаете в двигатель?, выглядит как новый!
Since you are at that with the valve cover off. Mind as well clean the vvti solenoid filter that is on that first cam rail cap. Once you remove it you will see a black cap underneath that cap rail.
Just gotta push it a bit with a screw driver to release it, you can see it by the top
It's not necessary to line up the timing marks to change the tensioner. Just don't rotate the engine with it removed.
It is wise to check your timing marks BEFORE you remove the tensioner to verify that it has not already skipped a gear tooth in the past.
@@michaelt1349
That's true.
Idk man, I’m here because I’ve done it like you said and this time I removed the old tensioner and now I can’t install the new one on
Can u do a vid on the inlet vavle change on this same car
If I still have the car and I was doing that job I would but I sold that car earlier this year.
Wilkerson Auto oh no reason i askt is i was get a bit of knocking sound from the top of the engin so i took off the manifold to inspect an i saw the inlet valves wa sitting lower then all the other 3 cylinder..what dose that mean
@@Anoymus985 that would be bent valves, if the lobes of the cam have space between them and the tops of the valves then the valves have most likely struck the piston. I believe on this motor the tops of the valves have metal cups that cover the valve and spring assembly. I can only think of one other possibility but the likelihood of broken valve springs I would consider to be very low. I would be surprised if the vehicle was still running in order to make the tapping sound you were referring to I would have expected a dead miss on at least the cylinder or cylinders that have the valves stuck down. I'm almost 100% certain that this is an interference motor so I would verify timing first and if that is off and the valves are down away from the cam lobes then the head will have to be removed and damage to valves/pistons will have to be assessed.
@@Anoymus985 wait, after rereading that question you seem to be saying you took off the intake manifold and saw that I was thinking you had the valve cover off and saw that, if this is the case then you may be looking at something very normal where the valves are held open at different times to allow intake of air and fuel and then exhaust valves are held open at specific times to release the air and unburnt fuel. The way to verify this is working is to put a large socket and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and turn it slowly by hand in which case you'll see the valves move . I believe I understand what you were asking now if I'm still not understanding your question let me know.
Wilkerson Auto yes that is correct i took of the intake manifold an as u no their are 4 cylinders..an in each one u have 4pistons 2 for inlet an 2 for exhaust..wen i tool the intake manifold off in the 4th cylinder i can see 2pistons which are sitting lower then the others wiche are in cylinder 1.2 &3..i am shore this is not normal as thay are suppose to be in the closed position rite....do u think thay could be stuck an need a loosening up..as wen i start an drive the car is low on power an u can hear it in the cabin that the car is not sounding smooth..
Hi why did you change tensioner? i have weird noise from chain area, dissapears after 3k rpm and im wondering what causes this.
I changed my tensioner because the crush gasket at the base was leaking not for a noise. If you're having a noise issue like a rattle all the way up to 3000 rpm I'd be getting a mechanic's stethoscope ( harbor freight has these for around $4- $5) and listening to front of the motor. You can also remove the belt to eliminate other possible noises but be careful since the water pump won't be turning so only for a couple of minutes. Hope that helps you with some techniques for narrowing down the noise
Tollota corolla 2zR. 2oo8. El torque de las bielas
Does the gasket lip orientation matter?
Same matrix 2009 automática??
I'm not sure it's been too many years since I did this one
Qui ero sabel. El torque de lasbiela
No but Google does
Prasai
Ikz engine
Just too bad the video was really poor so no one could see the important points.
Next time I'll hold your hand while you work ok
too much talk and very poor video focus. Skip it... there are better vids
Review too wordy
What the heck? How about start out by saying the year, brand and model of the car?
And basically too editing or simply not turning the camera.
Don't assume, because not all people understand nor have the money.
So we look and ask on the internet.
This is not to cut you down.
The make and model and specific engine model are in the video title. The year wasn't nearly as important as the engine identification. If the editing wasn't up to standards understand I'm a technician not a video editor and content was more important to me than specific presentation.
You only need the engine type since y/m/m don't matter if the engine is different (like the difference between Corolla XRS and the CE,LE,S) you dinkus
Just an FYI, the part in question typically costs around $40.00 new but you could simply replace the o-ring (for the 1ZZFE) for about $5.00 if it's just to stop oil seepage.
Jesus what a bunch of ungrateful cry babies. Thanks for video