Climbing the Red Pillar on Aguja Mermoz town to town in 24 hours
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- čas přidán 30. 03. 2022
- I was initially unsure if I wanted to go back into the mountains of Patagonia after John Bolte died. I went out to climb with Cedar one day but it didn’t feel quite right and we happily bailed after Cedar managed to pour boiling water on himself while cooking dinner. Shortly after, another micro-window was on the horizon and I made plans to climb with Pedro Odell, a local 18 year old who I had recently met in the mountains. The wind in the afternoon of the window was looking problematic so I suggested that we go for the Red Pilar on Aguja Mermoz (www.mountainproject.com/route..., a long, hard, and sustained free climb that goes up the east face of Mermoz and is relatively well protected. Pedro and I racked up for the climb and opted to go light and fast in a single push from town. I went to bed the night before at 7pm with my alarm set for 11:45pm to get picked up at midnight by Max, Pedro’s dad. Max drove us to El Pilar and we began hiking at 12:32am.
We chatted for the first hour and then enjoyed the silent of the night as we booked it through the forest and up the trail to Laguna de Los Tres. We quickly found ourselves in a cloud which I knew to expect. The forecast showed the low clouds dissolving by 6am and perhaps by 4:30am, we could see the stars… perfect timing. We motored up the glacier in our crampons and made it to Paso Superior just after 5am. We stopped for maybe 20 minutes to boil water before downclimbing to Glacier Superior and hiking to the base of the ice slope below the Red Pillar by first light. The bergschrund looked relatively chill to cross and a game of Rock, Paper, Scissors, settled that Pedro would be leading it. He climbed up placing a couple screws for a few moves of steep ice before passing over to the 50 degree snow/ice field above. He placed a Microtraxion and continued up as I simulclimbed behind with one ice axe in hand.
Pedro got us to rock and I led a short pitch to the first bolted anchor of the route just as the sun crested the horizon. We were off the ice… perfect timing. Pedro had climbed the first 4 pitches of the route in the past and offered to take the lead of the first 3 pitches. He led up the relatively easy pitches quickly depositing us at the base of the first crux. Pitch 4 is rated 7a or 5.11d and appeared to be a steep and perfect splitter crack ranging in size from fingers to hands. I had heard at least 3 accounts of people getting shut down on this pitch and being forced to aid climb it, eventually leading to a bail… this was also the story of Pedro’s last effort.
I quested up the steep splitter and climbed my way to the top of the pitch happy to have sent without too much fight. The next pitch is also rated 7a and turned out to be significantly more difficult as I was forced to hand jam and icy crack at the crux roof. I finished that pitch panting and very satisfied to send. I linked the next two pitches for 60 meters of perfect hand crack and made it to the base of the final 7a. I wanted to send badly and shed a layer in preparation to try hard. I made it most of the way up but a foot slipped and I fell out of finger lock as I was clipping a cam. With the extra rope out, I took a sizable fall, perhaps more than 20 feet. My freeclimbing pursuit was now over and my mentality shifted to climb as quickly as possible to get to the summit before it got too windy. It aligned nicely with conditions since the terrain from here on became more icy and cold as the sun fell around the corner. Pedro took over the lead and tied our whip count with 1 each. I took back over and French freed my way to the top of the vertical terrain.
The quality of the route blew me away. The climbing was steep and sustained at 5.11+ on perfect red granite. We arrived back into the sun as we crested the ridge which was a huge relief for our cold bodies. My hands were throbbing from being pumped and were bleeding profusely… typical. Pedro and I ditched our boots and tag line and continued up the ridge to the summit. The wind was picking up and I almost made the call to bail. After a tagging the summit, we down-scrambled and rappelled back to our boots while saddlebagging the ropes on each rappel. Once we made it back to the east face, the wind died down and I felt more at ease.
Put up by Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold with a power drill in 1999, all the anchors on the Red Pillar are comprised of quality stainless steel expansion bolts… quite the treat for a place like Patagonia. I led the first half and Pedro brought us down to the base in perhaps 2 hours total. The wind picked up on the very last rappel and began to rage as we walked across the glacier to Paso Superior… once again, perfect timing.
We made it back to El Chalten at 11:50pm after what would be the longest day out for either of us to date… 23:20 on the go and nearly 24 hours town to town. I made the claim it was one of the best days of climbing I’ve ever had and Pedro quickly agreed. - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Hands down one of the best climbing channels in CZcams. No drones, no techno music. Just pure climbing. Your Patagonian videos are just perfect. Great recording, great storytelling, and... what a skyline! Keep it up!
Yep that''s why they have 14k subscribers and other channels with all those things you mentioned have hundreds of thousands of subs
@@neoneo4221 they’re a fairly new channel and this video hit 251,332 views, all things considering that’s pretty good! I am confident their channel will continue to grow. This the first time I watch one of their videos and it’s precisely the reasons this person mentioned that I am subscribing to this channel. I am over annoying background music and aerial shots. I love this raw and personal feel.
Tyler, I've been meaning to comment that I've been enjoying these Patagonia videos immensely (along with your descriptions and Instagram posts). Up here in Canada it has been a wet and crummy March that doesn't have me stoked on skiing and I'm waiting for a rock climbing season that I'm already mourning the loss of because I'm about to start my first real desk job and become one of those weekend warriors, so I've been living vicariously through these videos. You joked in a previous video that you didn't understand why people like these, but it's just pure climbing. No long backstory, ominous music and multiple epic shots with expensive camera equipment and drones, but rather, relatable and real content that reminds us climbers of fun days out and adventures with friends (okay maybe not in Patagonia for me, but you get the gist of what I'm saying). Keep on keeping on!
I really appreciate the kind words. Thank you!
@@tylerkarow yeah dude, don’t change anything about your videos. We like the rawness.
good comment. unadorned vloggage.
I’m blown away by these videos. It really puts to light the difficulty for non-climbers like myself regarding adventures like this. Terrific overall.
totally
Love it. No annoying music or unnecessary narration. Just straight forward climbing video.
Very well done, loved the footage. Those cracks are beautiful. What a joy it must be to climb them. The descent may very well be the most dangerous part of many climbs for many reasons that the non-climber isn't aware of. Thanks for including it.
Awesome video thank you so for sharing. Very motivational and loved the rawness of the video.
Thank you for the videos Tyler. I really appreciate the dialog in the description as well! Beautiful.
I’m sweating watching this! 😅
I applaud your skill and bravery 👏 👏
Brutal videos, really enjoying them from distant Spain. Thank you for sharing your adventures! Take care !
That is so beautiful, I cant wait to get back out on the rocks this season. I'm not nearly as experienced as either of you, but hopefully one day I will get somewhere close. you guys are really out there living the dream
Ragazzi mi avete fatto emozionare! Che senso di avventura! Mi mancano le vie in montagna
Bro this video just had my
Jaw dropped I’ve been hiking in the Adirondacks all winter and I have always wanted to get into rock climbing and this just really blew me away love how excited you were for your buddy every time he got up great video new sub
Are you already started? If not you really should.. 😉 follow your dream
this might be the coolest video of a climb, also the coolest looking high five slappin' hand jamb session. respect and thanks so much for sharing! so epic. Pedro is an excellent climber also.
Very inspiring. You guys rock climb as easily as I can walk to the quick mart. Young strong bodies are the envy of us who do not possess either. Patagonia is incredibly beautiful from the pictures and video I've seen. Stay healthy and active my friends.
The climb perspiration and finishing is motivation. Excellent videos of climb, feels like the climbs I used to make in the day, keep up the good work, climb safe and smart
Why can't you people just go to Panda Express and call that a good day? What's all this stupid climbing stuff?
@@lashankuanetteshesothicc4242 motivation and enjoyment comes in all forms, glad you enjoy Panda Express, love that food also.
Really enjoy your climbing videos. Thanks for them!
What an insane climb, your both very brave. Well done....my hands and feet are tingling watching on here.
Great Videos Tyler!!!! Your living the life. Stay safe!
wow, these are great. Haven't really thought of actually climbing the Mt. Fitz Roy, but you are giving me ideas haha. keep up the good work!
Awesome work dude, taking the necessary amount of time, precision work. Well done
Great activity and great video and description above, well done, thanks!!
Up close and personal with patagonian granite...very cool !
I'm amazed that someone installed bolts next to pefect pro cracks.
At last we get to see some of the famous patagonian winds...it was because of these that don whillans invented the "Box" tent which was used on everest face routes etc.
A very satisfying video...well done.
I was shocked when he panned up from his partner following to the anchor setup and... Nothing in the crack. Those bolts get chopped 10 times outta 10 at my local crag.
I started following this channel at the end of last year - not disappointed, especially for content like this. Hand jambs for days! Crack city - very cool. Keep up the solid work
Awesome climbing and filming. Felt like I was there, which was a tad unsettling :)
Hope that you are able to continue your adventures !
Thanks for showing the repels down!! Always curious about that part.
amazing, loved the crack shot at 4:50, many beautiful things about this video. you guys made it seem like you're normal climbers just out at the crag! congrats! at the end you told Pedro "see you tomorrow", like you were gonna do it again (or anything for that matter), ha! normal people would have needed some recovery and reflection time. herculean!
I wish I had the nerve to do that with you guys, you are all very brave
wow! that route is off the charts... at least from my armchair. the arete exposure and the quality of the rock and the jamming just look epic! 9:32 with the ice, yikes, but that probably feels like nothing after the route but looks sketch. and 10:30, like seeing these moments, transitions are funky sometimes. the bolts next to cracks seems lame but this all out of my league anyway so just blather. thanks! this was my favorite! so so good.
very cool, amazing sunrise. ty for sharing
This video is awesome! Thanks for sharing your trip with us! :)
Totally epic. You really tell a great tale with fantastic video. Tough AF
What a beautiful splitter! Those jams looked g8
Simply Spectacular rock/climb/climbing/and teamwork!
This is so highly disturbing. Rock on, y'all, but I can't watch anymore. 😳😵💫💜
Amazing climb, glad you got back out to patagonia
Man this is brutal. I am sweating when I watch this !
You guys are beasts! Well done!
Beautiful pictures ,great !
Dude you are really really good and your friend too.Keep up the like this!!!
Loved this content really pure thanks
Wow, this scares the crap out of me
But just wow!!! How amazing is it!!!!!
Marvellous. Watching this on the way home after another busy day doing gait analysis. My alpine days seem a lifetime past, but your videos such as this take me back to the smell of the rock and the mouth open beauty. Thanks buddy for your sterling effort to film this awesome climb.
You said it dave...being taken back, the smell of clean rock,the jaw-dropping beauty. Being a part of the team, from a comfortable chair...
Trully marvellous...
Badass! Awesome video man wish I could do this kind of things seems like something that makes you appreciate life more
I can tell you it definitely gives you an amazing sense of accomplishment I've not found doing anything else on earth.
I`ve skydived a few times , but this rock climbing thing is terrifying ! Cool vid dude 👍
it's not terrifying but shit it looks difficult! Just learn from someone who knows 102% what they are doing and don't lead ice unless you will never fall.
Thank you. That was great to watch.
Amazing climb and scenery.
Nice footage! Loved it.
Holy living crap ! This video just happen to come across my CZcams feed. You are out of your minds … lol … at the 7:25 mark … I think I crapped my pants
its crazy to think that in my entire lifetime, i will never try something like this ever.
This is so insane, awesome job guys
Pure grit. Excellent video.
Brilliant climbing, guys
I’ve just subscribed now please be extra careful at places that are overused. I’m no climber at all but please take a little extra time. You guys are exceptional but please Tyler make sure your guys share your iron will. I’m ready for some adventures. I like climbers food. I’ll join your patron and stay blessed till home plotting your next climb. Team up with the guy that cooks in his van he just built on the inside he cooks good to. Glad there’s people like you in this world
You’re videos are so inspiring, hands down the best content CZcams. Thank you for sharing !
Simply amazing place and climb!
Thanks for that video.. makes me appreciate the ground
Bravo. Nicely done.
Thanks for these men and women pray them safe in journey all times I see by this I understand by this I'm terrified of heights and would never feel the butterflies in my stomach if these people didn't do it thank you
Amazing, be safe out there
Really enjoying the Patagonia content!
Awesome effort mate!
Bravo nice rocks thank for the nice video ❤😊
Wow man. You're channel just showed up on my feed. Loving it! -Kurt Freischlag
Kurt! You're in the very first climbing vid I ever made hahaha... Royal Arches. So strange that I even started filming back then. Hope all is well. Cheers dude!
Awesome climbing.. Keep safe guys
I was relieved to see you put shoes on for the fun stuff ;)
They must be super human and so fit. Amazing. My legs felt like jelly watching though
You're like an IV drip of stoke. Love the content as always.
so much stoke from the next gen
I love these videos man
Amazing man, congrats!
@3:43 YOU ROCKIN IT BAREFOOT MAN!!! thats wild
This is so crazy. I could never climb such a crack. I would always think that the plate might crack and fall of the mountain, leaving behind a surprised climber unattached.
Sick man, great work !!
Amazing vid 👍, got lucky with the wheather 🌞😎
surrreal view! Kudos!
Man is that extraordinary. Well done and thanks for sharing. May I ask how you stay calm under that sort of intensity? Every but of climbing I have ever done, I'm always freaking out about potential rockfall.
your videos give me vertigo anxiety lol but i enjoy them a lot. i find it crzy how people can do this xD
I can't even comprehend this. Also, I worked machining stone for years and know just how weak it can be. Some of the pieces around 7:20 could be pried off with a medium sized crowbar. Relying on them as holds would be scary enough, I can't imagine climbing below someone else who is.
Super gnarly. Looks like a blast
2:16 That's a terrifyingly beautiful shot. My palms are so sweaty, but I'm glad y'all are risking your own lives for not only your pleasure but also my entertainment.
You guys deserve 1000000 views 👏👏👏
Shiny bolts next to splitter crack. Guess they thought it was better to bring a drill than a few extra cams haha
Amazing video!
BAREFOOT,NO GLOVES,....SUBZERO TEMPERATURE..THIS IS INSANE>>>>>>>>>>>AMAZING VIDEO
Pretty bad ass! Solid work.
Amazing serious climbing.
amazing climb congrats
Wow. It's unbeliwable
legendz!!! congratz!!!
Spectacular route.
Wow, I didn't expect to see a bolt way up there....
Respect you guys 👏👏👏
This is excellent .
how do you know those cracked pieces of stone won't come loose when you climb them? not the central crack you are climbing but those flat pieces that are lying flat on the face of the cliff?
That is one of the best lines I've ever seen.
Sweet footage. Way to get after it! WAHOOOO!!!!
such a sick line. would be great if you could go through your gear list at some point for something like this!!
So epic! Thanks for sharing those insane adventures!
Tyyyyler, estás más loco que una cabra!!!!!!! gran abrazo desde Catamarca Argentina y larga vida para vos
Seeing the rope dangle from the summit wind gives me my daily dose of adrenaline
That was amazing. Got a sub!