I found with the developer that with one batch it never fully dissolved even after some days (probably due to lack of sufficient kneading before hand), and the bigger pieces caused artifacts in the images when developed. Easy Solution: Use a coffee filter to strain out the bigger pieces and it works perfectly. The FFP development kit has gotta be the best priced, most economical way to develop color negs. Thank you FPP!
This seems to be a feature of the ECN-2 color developer dye (CD-3, the solid you are seeing). If you add the developer ingredients sequentially (based on Kodak's instructions for mixing these solutions), CD-3 is added after sodium sulfite and sodium bromide and dissolves completely. The last two ingredients (sodium carbonate and baking soda) turn the entire solution alkaline (required for the developing process) and the solution stays clear and dissolved for about 2 hours. Over the next 24 hours that same solid you mentioned slowly crystallizes and requires filtering. Automatic motion picture film processors are built to filter this automatically, so it isn't an issue in ECN-2's native application (which is not home developing in daylight tanks). That said, ECN-2 is my preferred color chemistry as well; cheap, less toxic ingredients than C-41 and easy to mix at home.
Loved the kneading/purring cat insert, 😂. I use color coded stickers on my bottles: red for developer, blue sticker for stop/bleach and green for fixer. I also use those stickers on my funnels. Great video
I literally just mixed my kit about an hour after this was posted. Was curious if the yellow tint on the bleach was normal so searched for it. It’s like FPP can predict the future.
Hello, I have 3 questions/comments. Dark or amber bottles are not necessary; will dark bottles extend the life of the chems? What is the shelf life of this kit when stored properly? Will bottled drinking water such as Cotsto/Kirkland purified water suffice? I like using these because they are in 500 mL bottles. Thanks, good video!
I use clear bottles but store them in an opaque Rubbermaid bin, but can't otherwise comment on their stability in light. Go for the purest water possible - as long as you aren't using mineral/spring water, most bottled water is usually purified tap water. I use reverse-osmosis water since I have one the device with my kitchen tap. I have heard that one month is the recommended life from other trusted sources , but I've gone 2-3 months and been okay. Once you get near 20 rolls developed, the developer will start to fail. I usually make a new batch after two months or 15 rolls, but I am mixing my own bulk chemicals, so I don't try to squeeze every last roll out of the developer. Nothing is more disappointing than ruining rolls with exhausted developer. :(
Purified water can still have minerals in it. Distilled is best but not mandatory. I use the clear and store them under my sink (away from light). If you have small kids or nosy pets, consider adding a lock to the cabinet. - Mike
I found with the developer that with one batch it never fully dissolved even after some days (probably due to lack of sufficient kneading before hand), and the bigger pieces caused artifacts in the images when developed. Easy Solution: Use a coffee filter to strain out the bigger pieces and it works perfectly. The FFP development kit has gotta be the best priced, most economical way to develop color negs. Thank you FPP!
This seems to be a feature of the ECN-2 color developer dye (CD-3, the solid you are seeing). If you add the developer ingredients sequentially (based on Kodak's instructions for mixing these solutions), CD-3 is added after sodium sulfite and sodium bromide and dissolves completely. The last two ingredients (sodium carbonate and baking soda) turn the entire solution alkaline (required for the developing process) and the solution stays clear and dissolved for about 2 hours. Over the next 24 hours that same solid you mentioned slowly crystallizes and requires filtering. Automatic motion picture film processors are built to filter this automatically, so it isn't an issue in ECN-2's native application (which is not home developing in daylight tanks). That said, ECN-2 is my preferred color chemistry as well; cheap, less toxic ingredients than C-41 and easy to mix at home.
Loved the kneading/purring cat insert, 😂. I use color coded stickers on my bottles: red for developer, blue sticker for stop/bleach and green for fixer. I also use those stickers on my funnels. Great video
I literally just mixed my kit about an hour after this was posted. Was curious if the yellow tint on the bleach was normal so searched for it. It’s like FPP can predict the future.
Thanks!
I've always been curious, is the fixer in this kit the same as the FPP black and white fixer?
Not sure but think so. Since it's a kit, the fixer enclosed is perfect for the recommended 15 - 20 rolls. - Mike
Hello, I have 3 questions/comments. Dark or amber bottles are not necessary; will dark bottles extend the life of the chems? What is the shelf life of this kit when stored properly? Will bottled drinking water such as Cotsto/Kirkland purified water suffice? I like using these because they are in 500 mL bottles. Thanks, good video!
I use clear bottles but store them in an opaque Rubbermaid bin, but can't otherwise comment on their stability in light. Go for the purest water possible - as long as you aren't using mineral/spring water, most bottled water is usually purified tap water. I use reverse-osmosis water since I have one the device with my kitchen tap. I have heard that one month is the recommended life from other trusted sources , but I've gone 2-3 months and been okay. Once you get near 20 rolls developed, the developer will start to fail. I usually make a new batch after two months or 15 rolls, but I am mixing my own bulk chemicals, so I don't try to squeeze every last roll out of the developer. Nothing is more disappointing than ruining rolls with exhausted developer. :(
Purified water can still have minerals in it. Distilled is best but not mandatory. I use the clear and store them under my sink (away from light). If you have small kids or nosy pets, consider adding a lock to the cabinet. - Mike
Can the powders be stored for longer and mixed in smaller batches? Will this help at all or once it's exposed to air it starts to degrade?
Mix the chemistry as prescribed. Once the powder packets are opened, they are exposed to air and need to be mixed at once.