Learn how to use the awesome CineStill CS41 Developing kit, in this session with Devin! Ready to grab one, check out them out here: www.glazerscamera.com/cinesti...
So if I’m just mixing the chemicals and not going use it right then and there or even the same day, do I need to bring up to temp? Or will the chemicals not mix correctly if not at temp? I just want to have them ready for when I do have a roll to develop, and not have to do this whole process when I do want to develop. Like my DF96, ready to go just bring up to temp when I have a roll ready.
Also, at 9:42 he says "final agitation" on the blix, but the timer only shows just over 3 minutes, even though he said the agitations for the blix are every 30 seconds for a total of 8 minutes. How can the final agitation occur only 3 minutes into the blix step? Or did I miss something?
I noticed the same thing, I’m guessing he was still thinking 3:30 like the developer and it was an editing mistake. I doubled checked the instructions and it is in fact a total of 8 minutes, agitating every 30 sec 👍🏼
At 0:48, the thermometer only reads about 116 degrees, not quite the 120 degrees stated for the temperature requirement for mixing the developer. Does this mean there is some elbow room regarding the temperatures for mixing the blix and stabilizer as well?
I wish this came up earlier before i had a breakdown because the instructions and other YTs were just confusing me. This helps so much. Thanks. Do i just pore the chemicals back into the same bottles? And does this mean adding more time. (Written instructions are hard to understand in that chenical reuse section)
It develops 24 rolls of film and Cinestill just says it has “Long lasting shelf life” which is not very helpful. If you look online some people say they keep their chemicals for 3 to 6 months but there’s nothing official that I can find.
@@JonathanRuiz Ive used chemicals stored in glass bottles for 12 months. Ive had the same E6 kit going for 50 rolls of film for example and its 14 months old and still works like it was made yesterday. So chemicals far outlast what is stated with no quality loss.
@@pixeltx3364 you can use them up to like 6 times, If I recall you can do 6 rolls of film per each batch of chemicals or I might be thinking of the E6 kit from a different company. But I think its like 6 rolls per kit.
I am a film photographer of 35 years and a film photography teacher for the past 15. I really want to try this system but the film that came out during this video does not appear to have a clear base, as it normally should. This would be very problematic when actually wet printing the film in the darkroom and trying to color correct by way of dichroic filtration. Is the film density not an issue because it is being scanned instead? I am super curious about this magical system.
Just about to attempt this for the 3rd time to bow see the thermometer don't even go over 86f. So instead of going out on another shoot (as I f***d my film) and starting this. Should of actually just done coursework and not wasted time. The more you attempt this the more you need to purchase. Cba I give up with film. Taken me 2 years to learn how to unload and load a film without buggering it and now just this. So hard doing all this with Dyslexia and discalcula.. just keep getting it wrong 😪
120 degrees for processing?, sure?, as at 100 degrees water BOILS,yet I see no steam!!; just wish you could do a METRIC conversion on these volumes, as since 1966 hardly anyone, esp. in Australia, uses imperial anymore!!
In retrospect, yes, Devin would have benefitted from wearing gloves. That being said, he did not experience any noticeable, adverse effects from not. But still, you should. :D
No you don't need to. Hard water leaves lime stains on the film, to prevent that you could use the sqeegee thingee to get the water off the film. Many people don't use them because it's easy to scratch the film by using them. There are alternatives like to wash the film with distilled water, use a wetting agent or a salad spinner
Admiring your steady hand as you pour into the bottles- I'd have spilled without a funnel :)
This man went full hipster which is necessary when working with 35mm film. Great video
A hipster from 2009
Love this kit, I’ve developed many rolls that have came out great!
Sir you are the best . THANK YOU
Excellent video - thank you
Underrated video.
Marvellous video
Great video and very helpful. Edit out the talent opening the bottles.
So if I’m just mixing the chemicals and not going use it right then and there or even the same day, do I need to bring up to temp? Or will the chemicals not mix correctly if not at temp?
I just want to have them ready for when I do have a roll to develop, and not have to do this whole process when I do want to develop. Like my DF96, ready to go just bring up to temp when I have a roll ready.
are these chemicals re usable?
Also, at 9:42 he says "final agitation" on the blix, but the timer only shows just over 3 minutes, even though he said the agitations for the blix are every 30 seconds for a total of 8 minutes. How can the final agitation occur only 3 minutes into the blix step? Or did I miss something?
I noticed the same thing, I’m guessing he was still thinking 3:30 like the developer and it was an editing mistake. I doubled checked the instructions and it is in fact a total of 8 minutes, agitating every 30 sec 👍🏼
How do I clean all my equipment? What do I use to clean up and how do I dispose of any trash if I make a mess? Can I just throw them in the garbage?
Use butan spray to prevent oxidation of solutuions.
Write the date of mixing on the bottle and developed films.
At 0:48, the thermometer only reads about 116 degrees, not quite the 120 degrees stated for the temperature requirement for mixing the developer. Does this mean there is some elbow room regarding the temperatures for mixing the blix and stabilizer as well?
Yes. It just need to be hot enough to dissolve.
Can the washes be reused or only the stabilizer?
I have this bracket and 20onces goes right up to the top of the beaker ??
i assume he rinsed out the mixing container and stir wand off camera - to prevent contamination.
LOL, I thought (hoped) that he did too. It just reminded be to be hyper aware of my own doing this to my wand, measuring cups, and thermometer.
Yes, sorry, Devin had assistants rinsing and drying between shots/chemicals.
I was looking for this comment after watching the video at 03:42 I was afraid...
came here to say this
after first four rolls, how much time do you adjust developing time thereafter? I’m bad at math.
I wish this came up earlier before i had a breakdown because the instructions and other YTs were just confusing me. This helps so much. Thanks.
Do i just pore the chemicals back into the same bottles? And does this mean adding more time. (Written instructions are hard to understand in that chenical reuse section)
Same here. The other videos are waaaay too complicated for a simple procedure.
How long can the mixed chemicals last before expiring or losing their concentration?
🎥🎞🙌🏾
do you just pour the used chemicals back into the containers?
Yes with a funnel
12;30 Perfect
So how long can you store the kit after mixing? How long do the chemicals last?
It develops 24 rolls of film and Cinestill just says it has “Long lasting shelf life” which is not very helpful. If you look online some people say they keep their chemicals for 3 to 6 months but there’s nothing official that I can find.
@@JonathanRuiz Ive used chemicals stored in glass bottles for 12 months.
Ive had the same E6 kit going for 50 rolls of film for example and its 14 months old and still works like it was made yesterday. So chemicals far outlast what is stated with no quality loss.
@@pilsplease7561 Super helpful comments. I just developed my first color roll tonight, after watching this video and reading your comments. Thanks!
@@pilsplease7561 can i save the chemicals i used instead of get rid of them so i can use them again??
@@pixeltx3364 you can use them up to like 6 times, If I recall you can do 6 rolls of film per each batch of chemicals or I might be thinking of the E6 kit from a different company. But I think its like 6 rolls per kit.
Can I reuse the chemicals?
No Photo-Flo is needed before drying or is it built into the Stabilizer step?
It’s built in
You didn't wash your mixer in the video after preparing the developer and before mixing the post development chemicals. Is that OK?
So i can reuse al that developer n blix and stabilizer for more film correct?
And u didnt discard any of it right u saved it for later
Thanks for the video! You should have worn some protection like gloves, etc. though (:
Good call!
I am a film photographer of 35 years and a film photography teacher for the past 15. I really want to try this system but the film that came out during this video does not appear to have a clear base, as it normally should. This would be very problematic when actually wet printing the film in the darkroom and trying to color correct by way of dichroic filtration. Is the film density not an issue because it is being scanned instead? I am super curious about this magical system.
I thought all color film (C41 process) has an amber colored base? B&W is usually clear, grey or blue.
Is this legal in Washington state? I’ve heard the chemicals used can’t be bought.
This store is in Seattle
should I buy the camera or not?
What camera bro?
@@out1553 don’t want to go all out, looking at the La Sardina for a cheap but not garbage starter
Just about to attempt this for the 3rd time to bow see the thermometer don't even go over 86f. So instead of going out on another shoot (as I f***d my film) and starting this. Should of actually just done coursework and not wasted time. The more you attempt this the more you need to purchase. Cba I give up with film. Taken me 2 years to learn how to unload and load a film without buggering it and now just this. So hard doing all this with Dyslexia and discalcula.. just keep getting it wrong 😪
120 degrees for processing?, sure?, as at 100 degrees water BOILS,yet I see no steam!!; just wish you could do a METRIC conversion on these volumes, as since 1966 hardly anyone, esp. in Australia, uses imperial anymore!!
Water boils at 212 degrees F.
@@DeekonJones and conveniently in Celsius it boils at 100 and freezes at 0. The system every country in the world except like 7 use.
@@rorycowieson5924 I was simply telling you he wasn’t wrong. Lol
If he is referring to 120 degrees F, from what I have read C41 process is 100 to 102 degrees F. This may explain the cloudy negatives.
arent these toxic? shouldnt you wear gloves or something, from what ive heard :(
In retrospect, yes, Devin would have benefitted from wearing gloves. That being said, he did not experience any noticeable, adverse effects from not. But still, you should. :D
...do yo have to use a sqeegee thingee...?...asking for a friend..
Think you can just hang it to dry just make sure u use a weighted clip at the end so the film doesn’t curl up when drying
No you don't need to. Hard water leaves lime stains on the film, to prevent that you could use the sqeegee thingee to get the water off the film. Many people don't use them because it's easy to scratch the film by using them. There are alternatives like to wash the film with distilled water, use a wetting agent or a salad spinner
bad instructions, no gloves or eye protection, did not clean mixing vessel or stirrer, your negs looked bad also
the person just drop the film at the end of the process, he does indeed really really care about it. I can totally feel it.