Frank Rodriguez right on! They keep the candle burning for all of us film lovers. Since I returned to film, i just keep smiling when I shoot all these classics I never had when I was a kid.
I realise this vid is 4 years old, but Michael's efforts really need to be accoladed here; and, truly - in all his continuing efforts to resurrect wondrous film in all its many flavors and splendors. There is something about Michael's voice - which is always fun, youthful, and enthusiastic. He draws you in! Photography is truly an entire world to itself, with a lifetime's worth of exploration and excitement for anyone to enjoy. Michael and the GREAT team at FPP make it accessible, attractive, and most importantly - really FUN to be part of the scene. Whether you are a beginner or a pro, these guys will bring a smile to your face... and teach you something new about photography, nearly every episode. High "kudos" to Michael in this video... and really in EVERYTHING else he does for the wonderful world of photography! BRAVO.
you really got to love michael raso man, he makes it all seem so simple. without him i wouldn’t even use my land automatic. i always paid people to develop my film. but that’s now a thing of the past trust me.
Hello FPP friends. I've listened to your podcast (EVERY SINGLE EPISODE) ***some multiple times!*** and I'm ready to begin developing my own giant, growing pile of unprocessed 120 and 35mm film roles. I LOVE thedarkroom.com but I have always wanted to learn to develop my own film and I've decided it is finally time. Your CZcams videos are an extra boost of inspiration and courage for me to get started! Never thought I'd venture into such territory alone especially without some kind of prior photography 101 classroom experience. You guys are the freaking wind beneath my wings. XO Kim
Your post here is over 2 years old. Did you ever get into developing your negatives? Once you get the timing right, it's really easy. I was really nervous the first time I tried it but honestly, I've gotten good negatives even if the temps weren't *exactly* 102 degrees. I haven't developed a million rolls of film but I've done enough of them to know that there is a small margin for user error. Film has been and always will be rather forgiving. It's the same for when you shoot and meter color negative film i.e. even if you're + or - the correct exposure, you'll still get a decent negative.
Hi Mike and the gang at FFP. Been following and listening to you for a number of years now, I think you do a great job for Film Photography as a whole....Plus you are funny... Great vid.. We want more......I develope colour films in the Tetenal Kit and process Fuji Eterna Vivid 500T Cine Motion 35mm Tungsten Film "Expired" Colour Film uprated to 640iso. It has the RemJet also but i don't need to rub it off the film as it comes of in the developer section of the development ( makes the developer turn black) but no loss of quality to other films developed afterwards.. Great to see John still using his Minolta X-700 (I'm a Minolta long time lover). Can't wait for the next Podcast.......Keep up the great work............
I just recently got into film and it's really a hassle finding someone to do it for me in a timely and economical way. This video really makes Me think I could do it myself! I'll have to give it a whirl!
Hey Michael -- it's Old Peter Elgar here from ENGLAND -- Ha Ha ! You did not keep your tank in a warm water bath during development. I have been using 'CPAC ' Chemistry made in Belgium and have also been GIVEN a load of Fuji C41 Developer Concentrates from a Mini-Lab that closed down here in Brentwood and I did some Maths and made up smaller amounts and it all worked ! You are LUCKY there in USA having Motion Picture Industry so you can get that film there -- here it is not available. If you could afford to send me one ---
Hey thank you guys for giving me the confidence to do home development myself! Now the rolls of film are practically flying through my cameras! I have a question however, I notice you guys use old soda bottles (or maybe pop bottles?) for storing your chems.. My home dev kit came with those collapsable ones but i've been digging around on the net (uh oh!) and found the material that they're made from is not as good as those pop bottles you guys use in terms of keeping oxygen out, keeping them fresher for longer! It would be great to hear your experience on this or if using the pop bottles was just a happy accident :) much love!
I am surprised about how long the chemicals last. I will process some C-41 in the future. I am from the old old school of photography. I used to develop C-22 in my home darkroom decades ago. I chemicals only lasted about 2 weeks and there was no blix. Blix is a combination of bleach and fixer. Bleach looked just like Mountain Dew and if you mixed it with the clear fixer you would get this burgundy red color which is what your modern day blix is.
We do not follow the recommended limits on the kit. Kit directions say 10 rolls, we stretch it to 35! Kit directions most likely say 60 days, we stretch it 6 months. If anyone is developing something very important, best to follow the directions. Thanks for watching!
After the kit's stated roll limit, the components are exhausted such that you may get an image, but it will not conform to C-41 standards. As most so not do serious printing, and color correct in digital, much of the color shifts and contrast changes can be glossed over. Viewing on a computer screen helps to mask over some of the errors, because there is little quality standard to compare to. Overall, when someone says he gets 60 rolls from his 10 roll kit, he's getting crap images and blowing it out his ass.
I use the same funnel for everything. Just rinse well, toss into the dishwasher every so often. Same with the developing tank and reels. I dev rotary and my containers are only 1/3 liter. The rest is in the freezer.
just so everyone knows.... never take that much time to pour in the blix. After you pour out developer your film is still technically being developed so get the blix in there as soon as you can. As far as time for this process, it takes longer than 10 minutes. Developer takes 3:30 Blix takes 6:30 then water rinse takes another 3 and an additional 1 minute for stabilizer. So it actually takes 14 minutes total if you don't count the time it takes to heat the chemicals.
which makes me think...what if i have like 4-5-6 rolls? and a developing tank that can only host 1 roll of film? .... damn! better send this to a lab, then?
Hi Andrew, what is your experience with the duration of the chemicals? Do they have to be thrown away after 6 months, really? BTW, negative E6 processing is analog to this one?
It depends on the storage conditions. Keep chemistry in a cool, dark place and remove all air using collapsible bottles, or squeezing air out of plastic bottles ( be careful not to crack the bottle). I've used chemistry for over a year this way and at least 25 films. Some people have claimed 50+ films but I find colour shifts too much after a certain point. Avoid cross contamination, especially developer to blix.
Why does John keep a pterodactyl in the house? Also, everyone's process is different (I use my smarty phone and Massive Dev timer) and I rinse (quick rinse in, out) the film between developer and blix with great results.
Thanks man. I developed my film at a camera shop... too pricy to develop there everytime. I'll just try this out & develop my own film. Thanks again! Just wondering how you got your film onto a pc?
Once you develop your negs, use an Epson v700 scanner to scan your negs into a jpg. An investment (the scanner) but well worth it if you shoot alot! You might like our podcast: filmphotographyproject.com/podcast
Thanks for this. Good fun and informative. But please! When mixing powders in your kitchen, as well as expelling children, pets and silly people, make sure the windows are closed and no fans blowing. With the slightest draughts, fine traces of that toxic stuff can become airborne and land on food preparation surfaces and food utensils. And up your nose, if you are not wearing a mask. Best regards from hot'n steamy Central Thailand.
do I need to increase the development time if the film is old and outdated? Developed my first roll yesterday and it came out so dark I thought it wasn't developed. When I held it up to the light I could make out some images but I doubt If I could get anything scanned from them.
i developed some negatives that i had from a very old Fotomat roll, expired in 85, and i had that dark effect, when it was wet, the emulsion side was blue, and when dried i didn't see any of the pictures, it's just completely dark, edge to edge. the other roll in the tank, Kodak Portra, came out as i anticipated. Is there any chance it might be a similar case to that motion picture film that you demonstrated?
@@FilmPhotographyProject i'm just curious, when you say spent, you mean exposed to light? this roll was sealed in the original box. but it was strange that it appeared to be exposed from edge to edge, as if it had been unraveled and shoved back into its cartridge. and the blue emulsion really confuses me too. it was blue when it was wet, but when it dried it dried dark. is that just an Konica thing? i was gifted a bunch of fotomat rolls but after developing that first roll, i'm reluctant to shoot the rest.
Does the baking soda and water method remove most of the remjet layer? Cause id like to keep my film developer as clear as possible since ive read remjet could possibly stick to the emulsion and prevent it from developing in spots
I know I'm super late to this but were some of those example frames that were displayed at the end of the video shot at LDI and NAB? Am I in the company of a fellow stage technician?
I know this video is 5 2/3 years old, but I hope you can answer a question: Why would it be necessary or advisable to have separate development tanks for C-41 and B&W processing?
The only reason would be that developing Vision3 color film (as demonstrated in the video) stains the tank with the (removed) black rem jet. It's harmless so correct - one tank is good for all film! -Mike
Yes, absolutely. Recommended 10 rolls per kit. I usually get 30 rolls! filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Are these chemicals dangerous? I've heard developing film in your house can produce harmful fumes from the chemicals you use. Good ventilation is suggested, but if it's true that it's dangerous, I don't think developing film at home and saving a few cents is worth getting cancer.
HELP. So at 12:45 that black thing on the film, should I have removed it before the stabilizer? Or after? Just saw this video and my film came out like that and I was wondering how to remove it
@@andrewford80 Color *negative* film is developed the same way. Color positive film can be processed C-41 but this would technically be a cross-processing of it. E-6 chemicals are used to process color positive film or what's considered "slide film".
I was trying to remember where I knew your face from and than I realized I follow you on Flickr. If you ship abroad I´ll be buying a kit soon. Tired of having to wait a week to get my film developed. Great video by the way. I have some meters of Kodak 35mm motion picture film left over from my college days and I had no idea you have to scrape the protective layer from it. Time to roll it and shoot it. Cheers!
Great! Unfortunately the shipping cost is higher than the kit itself. But I won´t give up. I´ll wait until someone I know gets to travel over there. Or maybe even me. Keep up the good work.
Bring your negatives to your local printing shop! Some walmarts still do it, any photo lab offers it, or even normal photography stores! You can also simply scan them on a flatbed, reverse the color and have them digital :)
If you want real optical color prints (not from digital scans), I recommend sending them to Blue Moon Camera in Portland, Oregon. They have one of the last optical print labs in the country. I just had them do some senior pics and the results are amazing.
How do you avoid over- or under-developed negatives? As the chemicals age towards their 6-month mark or get more usage, does their performance change and require compensating with your developing time-temp?
It's all a package so when the developer is exhausted, you discard it all. Instructions say about 10 rolls per 1 liter but I'be developed 35+ with one liter.
Aren't you getting water in your developer when you rinse first then add developer and tehn put the developer back in the bottle? I've only developed black and white and I toss my developer after using it
Hi there, cool dancing! ;) Wow, did I understand correct? 103ºF is nearly 40ºC, this is quite hot. Do you also have a mix for 20ºC/68ºF like most B&W? Or room temperature 24ºC/75.2ºF would also be fine, without wasting energy for heating chemicals. Cheers, Roland
If you are storing photo chemistry in your home and have children, we highly recommend you lock it up or put in a place that can not be accesses. This is on tom of labeling "POISON" for everyone else who might stumble upon it.
I can't believe you didn't scratch those negatives handling them like that. Also, when I try and leave the remjet until after blix, it still comes off after the developer.
Hi, Yes but true - unscratched. I always try to relay that everyone has their own method (especially in the "remove" rem jet). Some folks pre-remove the rem jet before developing.
Hey, do you think it'd be a big deal to use the same film developing container for b+w and c41? I know you mentioned that you have separate ones. But my 4x5 container is expensive and I was thinking maybe if I just washed it real good after use it'd be okay. Thanks for your time! Great video too!
A-Okay to use the same reels and tank for both BW and color. I should have made that clear that my it was just my personal pref to have one for BW and one for color. Happy developing!
If your film doesn't have a carbon based side, can you put the film in the stabilizer whilst it is still on the reel? Or is it still better to put it in loose?
Hi Kris, Never thought about it. I've always pulled the film off the reel because I'm anxious to hold it up to the light! After the Blix, you can certainly give the film a good water wash (in light is okay) and then add the Stabilizer.
Thanks for the quick reply! Great video btw :) My lecturer was always annoyingly particular about touching your film as little as possible. Mine would still end up with dust and scratches though lol so I guess it doesn't make too much of a difference if you handle it more
So, is the 2 liter packaged so that I could mix 1 liter now and save the other liter for later? Or would I have to open a tear-apart package, divvy out half of it and have the other half open to humidity while waiting to use it?
Thanks for the video. I've subscribed and I'll be ordering kits from you in the future. I have one question about the last step in your process. It was when you wiped the film. I learned the hard way with the first two rolls of C-41 I developed that wiping the film actually distorts the emulsion and that it shouldn't ever be wiped. And that a solution -- usually part of the stabilizer -- should instead be used which improves the sheeting action of this last rinse so that wiping isn't necessary. Can you comment on this? It sure seems like you were getting away with something that caused me grief -- especially when you used that paper towel!
I am a sloppy developer and frequently just wipe my film with a paper towel. Yup, could easily damage emulsion. Recommended - film SQUEEGE or micro-fiber cloth. Thanks for watching. Great kit!
Any possibility you could improve your recorded audio with a lapel mic or similar? Your voice is so echoey and distant, makes it hard to listen to sometimes.
Well, to my knowledge the processing time for C41 is 3'15'' in constant agitation at the temperature of 38 Celsius, would this be the case with your chemistry as well? Thanks again!
Instructions recommend 10 but I develop at least 30! Keep your chemicals airtight when storing - that's the secret. This applies to all color films you develop with this kit. filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Anybody have any experience with fujifilm doing this DYI development? Is there remjet on that stuff? Haven't tried yet, but I'm about to buy the kit. Appreciate some feedback.
Most of the time it's just a white balance issue with scanners trying to guess what tone the images should be... Nothing in this process should be changing the tone of your film I don't think.
Everyone owes you guys a big thanks for making at-home processing easy and inexpensive.
Frank Rodriguez right on! They keep the candle burning for all of us film lovers. Since I returned to film, i just keep smiling when I shoot all these classics I never had when I was a kid.
I like the way this was done in such an informal fashion, and I loved the shot of the child outside the door!
geosutube i
I lost it lmao
I realise this vid is 4 years old, but Michael's efforts really need to be accoladed here; and, truly - in all his continuing efforts to resurrect wondrous film in all its many flavors and splendors. There is something about Michael's voice - which is always fun, youthful, and enthusiastic. He draws you in! Photography is truly an entire world to itself, with a lifetime's worth of exploration and excitement for anyone to enjoy. Michael and the GREAT team at FPP make it accessible, attractive, and most importantly - really FUN to be part of the scene. Whether you are a beginner or a pro, these guys will bring a smile to your face... and teach you something new about photography, nearly every episode. High "kudos" to Michael in this video... and really in EVERYTHING else he does for the wonderful world of photography! BRAVO.
Thank you very much. Your comments are appreciated and I'm happy to assist the film community! - Mike
Thank you so much for keeping this content alive! I love everything you all do for the analog community!
Great back n forth between the lead and the camera man. Hilarious and extremely informative video! You guys should do a series together.
i disagree it was annoying
i thought that was distracting.
wow, easier that I would have imagined. I need to try this out
Shoulda put the bird outside with the kid.
And opened the cage!
The bird is like a grandma upstairs, yelling once in a while :D
you really got to love michael raso man, he makes it all seem so simple. without him i wouldn’t even use my land automatic. i always paid people to develop my film. but that’s now a thing of the past trust me.
Hello FPP friends. I've listened to your podcast (EVERY SINGLE EPISODE) ***some multiple times!*** and I'm ready to begin developing my own giant, growing pile of unprocessed 120 and 35mm film roles. I LOVE thedarkroom.com but I have always wanted to learn to develop my own film and I've decided it is finally time. Your CZcams videos are an extra boost of inspiration and courage for me to get started! Never thought I'd venture into such territory alone especially without some kind of prior photography 101 classroom experience. You guys are the freaking wind beneath my wings. XO Kim
Your post here is over 2 years old. Did you ever get into developing your negatives?
Once you get the timing right, it's really easy. I was really nervous the first time I tried it but honestly, I've gotten good negatives even if the temps weren't *exactly* 102 degrees. I haven't developed a million rolls of film but I've done enough of them to know that there is a small margin for user error. Film has been and always will be rather forgiving. It's the same for when you shoot and meter color negative film i.e. even if you're + or - the correct exposure, you'll still get a decent negative.
Just developed my first roll after watching this at least 5 times. Thanks for the informative video! I hope the negatives turn out fine lol
I wanna know how did they turn out? 😂
Hi Mike and the gang at FFP. Been following and listening to you for a number of years now, I think you do a great job for Film Photography as a whole....Plus you are funny... Great vid.. We want more......I develope colour films in the Tetenal Kit and process Fuji Eterna Vivid 500T Cine Motion 35mm Tungsten Film "Expired" Colour Film uprated to 640iso. It has the RemJet also but i don't need to rub it off the film as it comes of in the developer section of the development ( makes the developer turn black) but no loss of quality to other films developed afterwards.. Great to see John still using his Minolta X-700 (I'm a Minolta long time lover). Can't wait for the next Podcast.......Keep up the great work............
I just recently got into film and it's really a hassle finding someone to do it for me in a timely and economical way. This video really makes Me think I could do it myself! I'll have to give it a whirl!
I'm so glad you guys offer this now.. B&H won't ship c-41 anymore. :-)
Hey Michael -- it's Old Peter Elgar here from ENGLAND -- Ha Ha ! You did not keep your tank in a warm water bath during development. I have been using 'CPAC ' Chemistry made in Belgium and have also been GIVEN a load of Fuji C41 Developer Concentrates from a Mini-Lab that closed down here in Brentwood and I did some Maths and made up smaller amounts and it all worked ! You are LUCKY there in USA having Motion Picture Industry so you can get that film there -- here it is not available. If you could afford to send me one ---
Very helpful AND enjoyable video! I laughed out loud a few times, especially when the camera peels over to the kid looking in through the door.
Hey thank you guys for giving me the confidence to do home development myself! Now the rolls of film are practically flying through my cameras! I have a question however, I notice you guys use old soda bottles (or maybe pop bottles?) for storing your chems.. My home dev kit came with those collapsable ones but i've been digging around on the net (uh oh!) and found the material that they're made from is not as good as those pop bottles you guys use in terms of keeping oxygen out, keeping them fresher for longer!
It would be great to hear your experience on this or if using the pop bottles was just a happy accident :) much love!
I am surprised about how long the chemicals last. I will process some C-41 in the future. I am from the old old school of photography. I used to develop C-22 in my home darkroom decades ago. I chemicals only lasted about 2 weeks and there was no blix. Blix is a combination of bleach and fixer. Bleach looked just like Mountain Dew and if you mixed it with the clear fixer you would get this burgundy red color which is what your modern day blix is.
We do not follow the recommended limits on the kit. Kit directions say 10 rolls, we stretch it to 35! Kit directions most likely say 60 days, we stretch it 6 months. If anyone is developing something very important, best to follow the directions. Thanks for watching!
After the kit's stated roll limit, the components are exhausted such that you may get an image, but it will not conform to C-41 standards. As most so not do serious printing, and color correct in digital, much of the color shifts and contrast changes can be glossed over. Viewing on a computer screen helps to mask over some of the errors, because there is little quality standard to compare to. Overall, when someone says he gets 60 rolls from his 10 roll kit, he's getting crap images and blowing it out his ass.
i love this video so much! not only is it super helpful, but you guys are hilarious too.
Thanks so much!! Just checked in with John. Birds as noisy as ever! - Mike Raso
FilmPhotographyPodcast hahahaha
I use a pot with cover on the stove. Heat water to 10C above developing temp then soak chemistry in pot with cover one for about 10 mins. Good to go.
is this only for 35mm? or can it be used for 8mm as well?
Jeez, I thought my wife had trodden on the cat around the 7 minute mark. Ran out and couldn't find either. Nice bird sounds buddy...
I use the same funnel for everything. Just rinse well, toss into the dishwasher every so often. Same with the developing tank and reels. I dev rotary and my containers are only 1/3 liter. The rest is in the freezer.
just so everyone knows.... never take that much time to pour in the blix. After you pour out developer your film is still technically being developed so get the blix in there as soon as you can. As far as time for this process, it takes longer than 10 minutes. Developer takes 3:30 Blix takes 6:30 then water rinse takes another 3 and an additional 1 minute for stabilizer. So it actually takes 14 minutes total if you don't count the time it takes to heat the chemicals.
which makes me think...what if i have like 4-5-6 rolls? and a developing tank that can only host 1 roll of film? .... damn! better send this to a lab, then?
eladbari Lovely late reply here. You can just do this process for one roll at a time and then do the next.
The dev tank inthe vid holds two rolls of 35mm (or one roll 120 / 620). Larger tanks are available as is a 2-Liter Kit.
Hi Andrew, what is your experience with the duration of the chemicals? Do they have to be thrown away after 6 months, really? BTW, negative E6 processing is analog to this one?
It depends on the storage conditions. Keep chemistry in a cool, dark place and remove all air using collapsible bottles, or squeezing air out of plastic bottles ( be careful not to crack the bottle). I've used chemistry for over a year this way and at least 25 films. Some people have claimed 50+ films but I find colour shifts too much after a certain point. Avoid cross contamination, especially developer to blix.
Gonna try this only because the dancing was so good!
Film is so fire 🔥 gives it that 80’s feel to the photo
80s feel? Lol it gives a feel of real tangible art, not 80s
Why does John keep a pterodactyl in the house?
Also, everyone's process is different (I use my smarty phone and Massive Dev timer) and I rinse (quick rinse in, out) the film between developer and blix with great results.
How do you store your chemicals? Do you keep them in a dark cupboard or in a fridge?
Can it work with 8mm movie film?
Thanks man. I developed my film at a camera shop... too pricy to develop there everytime. I'll just try this out & develop my own film. Thanks again! Just wondering how you got your film onto a pc?
Once you develop your negs, use an Epson v700 scanner to scan your negs into a jpg. An investment (the scanner) but well worth it if you shoot alot! You might like our podcast:
filmphotographyproject.com/podcast
DelusionalRickyGaming
I think my country is the only one where developing C-41 film is cheaper, than buying a kit from eBay. It costs only 1 EUR per 35/120 roll.
WHERE DO YOU LIVE
Latvia! EU :)
It's a great video and very well done, however, I cannot find the kit you mention on the website.
Hi,
Do you have to remove the remjet layer before stabilisation or can you do it as the last pre-rinse step?
wow this is great it makes it seem so easy and understandable! thanks a lot!
Thanks for this. Good fun and informative. But please! When mixing powders in your kitchen, as well as expelling children, pets and silly people, make sure the windows are closed and no fans blowing. With the slightest draughts, fine traces of that toxic stuff can become airborne and land on food preparation surfaces and food utensils. And up your nose, if you are not wearing a mask.
Best regards from hot'n steamy Central Thailand.
Any video with Lee Sklar in it is great!
do I need to increase the development time if the film is old and outdated? Developed my first roll yesterday and it came out so dark I thought it wasn't developed. When I held it up to the light I could make out some images but I doubt If I could get anything scanned from them.
Temperature is really important. Dev time same across the board.
Sold out?! What kind of business model is that? Nice video though. Thanks for posting.
It's called a successful business model
They just re-stocked today!
i developed some negatives that i had from a very old Fotomat roll, expired in 85, and i had that dark effect, when it was wet, the emulsion side was blue, and when dried i didn't see any of the pictures, it's just completely dark, edge to edge. the other roll in the tank, Kodak Portra, came out as i anticipated. Is there any chance it might be a similar case to that motion picture film that you demonstrated?
Don't think so. Film from '85 is really old and its possible that it was "spent".
@@FilmPhotographyProject i'm just curious, when you say spent, you mean exposed to light? this roll was sealed in the original box. but it was strange that it appeared to be exposed from edge to edge, as if it had been unraveled and shoved back into its cartridge. and the blue emulsion really confuses me too. it was blue when it was wet, but when it dried it dried dark. is that just an Konica thing? i was gifted a bunch of fotomat rolls but after developing that first roll, i'm reluctant to shoot the rest.
Does the baking soda and water method remove most of the remjet layer? Cause id like to keep my film developer as clear as possible since ive read remjet could possibly stick to the emulsion and prevent it from developing in spots
We do not use the Baking Soda method. We "use your thumb" method. Didn't you watch the video? - Mike
quick question if I use liquid developing kits can i use it for up to six moths also if i store them the same way you did?
I don't like the interruptions!...interferes with my train of thought 😢
I know I'm super late to this but were some of those example frames that were displayed at the end of the video shot at LDI and NAB? Am I in the company of a fellow stage technician?
Those pix were taken at N.A.M.M. - www.namm.org/thenammshow/2018
So the carbon stuff isn't normally on c-41 photo film, right?
Developing the Blix-Dance is... not bad ; - )
I know this video is 5 2/3 years old, but I hope you can answer a question: Why would it be necessary or advisable to have separate development tanks for C-41 and B&W processing?
The only reason would be that developing Vision3 color film (as demonstrated in the video) stains the tank with the (removed) black rem jet. It's harmless so correct - one tank is good for all film! -Mike
@@FilmPhotographyProject Makes sense. Haven't really used motion picture film, so was not aware.
And thanks for the quick reply on such an old video!
Hi, did you save your chemical for the next use? I saw you poured it back in the bottle? is that mean the chemical can reuse?
Yes, absolutely. Recommended 10 rolls per kit. I usually get 30 rolls!
filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Are these chemicals dangerous? I've heard developing film in your house can produce harmful fumes from the chemicals you use. Good ventilation is suggested, but if it's true that it's dangerous, I don't think developing film at home and saving a few cents is worth getting cancer.
It depends on which chemistry you are using. Knowledge is king, and fear kinda sucks!
.
I wear gloves. Kids are taught this in school so, not that dangerous from a chem perspective.
Any good references on how to properly dispose of C-41 chemicals?
Yes - filmphotographyproject.com/content/2018/11/disposing-photographic-chemistry-exhaustion/
You don't show it in the video but do you return the stabilizer to the bottle after using as well?
thepiecesfit Yes, I believe you do.
Yes, stabilizer gets saved too.
Hey guys, many thanks for this cool movie. 👍😁
Were did you buy the reel of Kodax motion picture film stock?
THE FPP!!!!
HELP. So at 12:45 that black thing on the film, should I have removed it before the stabilizer? Or after? Just saw this video and my film came out like that and I was wondering how to remove it
Thanks Mike & Co. ! Quick question, what's your dev scheme for C-41? i.e., How many twists of the swizzle stick for how long and how often?
I twizzle the film for about 10 seconds every minute but I suggest you read the directions in the kit. Go for it!
Wow! That sounds like a crazy bird!
Do you guys provide a development chart for different types of film? For instance, I would like to develop Kodak Portra 800.
the beauty of colour film is you develop it all the same way.
andrewford80 awesome, I came here to ask this exact question, thanks.
@@andrewford80 Color *negative* film is developed the same way. Color positive film can be processed C-41 but this would technically be a cross-processing of it. E-6 chemicals are used to process color positive film or what's considered "slide film".
I was trying to remember where I knew your face from and than I realized I follow you on Flickr. If you ship abroad I´ll be buying a kit soon. Tired of having to wait a week to get my film developed.
Great video by the way. I have some meters of Kodak 35mm motion picture film left over from my college days and I had no idea you have to scrape the protective layer from it. Time to roll it and shoot it.
Cheers!
We do ship abroad! Best wishes!
Our podcast - filmphotographyproject.com/podcast
Great! Unfortunately the shipping cost is higher than the kit itself. But I won´t give up. I´ll wait until someone I know gets to travel over there. Or maybe even me.
Keep up the good work.
Great video, comes very handy for a newb like me!
so after this process,how would you actually get the photos printed on glossy photo paper ?
Bring your negatives to your local printing shop! Some walmarts still do it, any photo lab offers it, or even normal photography stores! You can also simply scan them on a flatbed, reverse the color and have them digital :)
If you want real optical color prints (not from digital scans), I recommend sending them to Blue Moon Camera in Portland, Oregon. They have one of the last optical print labs in the country. I just had them do some senior pics and the results are amazing.
You need an enlarger, a dark room and actual photographic paper. It's a very entertaining, very rewarding experience!
How do you avoid over- or under-developed negatives? As the chemicals age towards their 6-month mark or get more usage, does their performance change and require compensating with your developing time-temp?
Hey guys, is the new kit different from the one in the video in terms of chemistry and image quality?
I used to keep the developing tank in warm/hot water. That should improve the outcome?
How many times can you re-use Stabilizer and FIX ?
It's all a package so when the developer is exhausted, you discard it all. Instructions say about 10 rolls per 1 liter but I'be developed 35+ with one liter.
Do you need to add photo flo to the film?
No. The Stabilizer is the last step.
Wish the kit came with clips
Aren't you getting water in your developer when you rinse first then add developer and tehn put the developer back in the bottle? I've only developed black and white and I toss my developer after using it
Very small amount. I've developed up to 25 rolls using the same recycled chemistry before discarding.
Hi there, cool dancing! ;) Wow, did I understand correct? 103ºF is nearly 40ºC, this is quite hot. Do you also have a mix for 20ºC/68ºF like most B&W? Or room temperature 24ºC/75.2ºF would also be fine, without wasting energy for heating chemicals. Cheers, Roland
Chemistry ? Did you mean chemical ?
Awesome tutorial! Thanks a lot!
Does that technically mean kids that don't know it poison and dangerous and don't know not to touch it
If you are storing photo chemistry in your home and have children, we highly recommend you lock it up or put in a place that can not be accesses. This is on tom of labeling "POISON" for everyone else who might stumble upon it.
Don't let your wife catch you doing that in the kitchen !! ; - )
Probably that wasn't a bird.
How do you agitate with a stainless steel tank if there is no hole to put a stir stick into?
Give a slight shake.
I'm buying it! Thanks, Mike! #fppforever
great vid, does the kit come with Blix and stabilizer powder as well?
Yes, it does. filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Great video tutorial. Really enjoyed it. But was that really just a bird, or the KRAKEN!
I can't believe you didn't scratch those negatives handling them like that. Also, when I try and leave the remjet until after blix, it still comes off after the developer.
Hi, Yes but true - unscratched. I always try to relay that everyone has their own method (especially in the "remove" rem jet). Some folks pre-remove the rem jet before developing.
Hey, do you think it'd be a big deal to use the same film developing container for b+w and c41? I know you mentioned that you have separate ones. But my 4x5 container is expensive and I was thinking maybe if I just washed it real good after use it'd be okay. Thanks for your time! Great video too!
A-Okay to use the same reels and tank for both BW and color. I should have made that clear that my it was just my personal pref to have one for BW and one for color. Happy developing!
i develop my second roll and it's much better than the first one, when it dries it gets white spots, water spots, someone knows why ,thanks
If your film doesn't have a carbon based side, can you put the film in the stabilizer whilst it is still on the reel? Or is it still better to put it in loose?
Hi Kris, Never thought about it. I've always pulled the film off the reel because I'm anxious to hold it up to the light! After the Blix, you can certainly give the film a good water wash (in light is okay) and then add the Stabilizer.
Thanks for the quick reply! Great video btw :) My lecturer was always annoyingly particular about touching your film as little as possible. Mine would still end up with dust and scratches though lol so I guess it doesn't make too much of a difference if you handle it more
So, is the 2 liter packaged so that I could mix 1 liter now and save the other liter for later? Or would I have to open a tear-apart package, divvy out half of it and have the other half open to humidity while waiting to use it?
Hello, The 2-Liter Kit needs to be mixed all at once.
why don't you use a microwave to heat up the soups?
Thanks for the video. I've subscribed and I'll be ordering kits from you in the future. I have one question about the last step in your process. It was when you wiped the film. I learned the hard way with the first two rolls of C-41 I developed that wiping the film actually distorts the emulsion and that it shouldn't ever be wiped. And that a solution -- usually part of the stabilizer -- should instead be used which improves the sheeting action of this last rinse so that wiping isn't necessary. Can you comment on this? It sure seems like you were getting away with something that caused me grief -- especially when you used that paper towel!
I am a sloppy developer and frequently just wipe my film with a paper towel. Yup, could easily damage emulsion. Recommended - film SQUEEGE or micro-fiber cloth. Thanks for watching. Great kit!
Great video.
I'm 16 years old is that ok to process a film?
Yes, we have lots of High School students developing. Of course, ask your parents or guardian if it's okay!
Yes, I used to develop C-41 film at home when I was 11.
Quick question: can I develop one monochrome c-41 and one color neg c-41 like this, or should I do them separately?
If both rolls are C-41, then absolutely!
Cool, thanks!
Great God Michael, what kind of bird it that?
Thanks for the tutorial, you are always entertaining and informative.
The link does not take you to the product. 🙄
Link fixed - filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Any possibility you could improve your recorded audio with a lapel mic or similar? Your voice is so echoey and distant, makes it hard to listen to sometimes.
Is that Leland Sklar in one of those photos?!?!
Leland Sklar - It certainly is. Dane Johnson met him at the NAMM Show - www.namm.org/thenammshow/2017
Just about to process c41 for the first time. Always develop black and white but never color
Confidence is high!
What about chemicals and septic systems? Is there any problem? Thanks.
No problem. filmphotographyproject.com/content/2018/11/disposing-photographic-chemistry-exhaustion/
IR light burns the film ???
I love the powder idea, is this JOBO rotary processing suitable as well? Thank you for your time.
Yes, you can use rotary developers. You made need to reduce processing times as the film is getting constant agitation.
Well, to my knowledge the processing time for C41 is 3'15'' in constant agitation at the temperature of 38 Celsius, would this be the case with your chemistry as well? Thanks again!
How many Rolls of Kodak Vision 3 can be proccessed from this kit?
Instructions recommend 10 but I develop at least 30! Keep your chemicals airtight when storing - that's the secret. This applies to all color films you develop with this kit. filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Anybody have any experience with fujifilm doing this DYI development? Is there remjet on that stuff? Haven't tried yet, but I'm about to buy the kit. Appreciate some feedback.
What temp is the water at 11:00
thank! do one video class for b/w developing. Please
my first time developing and the scans came out with a bluish tint. Any help? thanks.
Most of the time it's just a white balance issue with scanners trying to guess what tone the images should be... Nothing in this process should be changing the tone of your film I don't think.
Lol, that poor kid outside.. while dads do their stuff haha.. what’s the weather?
danny devito's brother?
These kits are no longer available?
Out of stock 10/23/2019 - Please sign up for our e-mail newsletter to be notified of re-stock. filmphotographyproject.com/
Are the developing times and temperatures the same for slide as c-41?
The E6 Slide Kit has a different set of instructions. Don't have those times at hand.