Developing C41 - QUICK GUIDE (Tetenal 1l kit)
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- čas přidán 14. 06. 2024
- You have been too scared to try out developing C41 at home? No worries - so have I for the longest time! But one day I decided to order a developing kit, tried it out and realised that it was not as hard and not as cumbersome as a lot of people were saying - and, since that day I developed all of my color film myself. However, to make it less intimidating for you and to have a guide at hand (that will tell you that everything is going to be alright!) I decided to make this video, so that you can come back here while developing your first couple of rolls of color film to make sure you are still on the right track. For faster orientation this video is also color coded with different background colors, and you can also use the timestamps to jump to specific parts of the process.
BLUE - materials
RED - preparations
YELLOW - developing
0:00 - intro
1:02 - materials
2:16 - preparations
4:25 - developing
7:09 - further notes
10:13 - bye
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This video was recorded on the Sony A7II.
The audio was recorded on the Hollyland Lark 150.
The music was sourced via Epidemic Sound.
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Where to find me
INSTAGRAM: @karinmajoka
WEBSITE: www.karinmajoka.com
Tysm! Developing colour for the first time in the next few days. So happy to see such an encouraging explainer!
Your calm demeanor totally made me feel at ease about the idea of developing at home. Nice job!
Thank you Brandon, glad this was helpful! :)
Wow, this looks much easier than I thought! Thank you for this informative video!
Thanks, hope it helps people to give it a try! :)
Water first, always!
First, put at least most of the water needed into the bottle. Then add the chemicals in the right order. Ideally, you would completely dissolve one chemical before you add another.
Great video, thank you! But... water first! 🚰🥼
Favourited cos this is the most comprehensive no-nonsense guide I've seen so far
Karin. Simply magical... one of the best presentations I've seen. Thanks a million
Great explanation! And thank you for mentioning the importance of handling the used chemicals, that's so important! I'm looking forward to develop c41 myself but first I want to get comfortable enough with b&w. I found some 20 years or so old undeveloped color rolls from my parents and really want to develop them by my own. They were stored horrible. This is gonna be a challenge.
Thanks for your comment, I appreciate it! I think it’s a good idea to get a routine with b&w developing first, since that can be a bit more forgiving. Oh wow, that sounds like a challenge for sure, but like an interesting one. I have no idea how you would process already exposed rolls that old - maybe overdeveloping would do the job? 🤔 let me know how it went! :)
Lovely video!! I've had the same Tetenal kit waiting in my shelf for a couple of weeks because of a kind of anxiety when I think about temperature control. I had this and so many other questions before your video. I was even wondering whether the kitchen temperature controller would work. And now... you just released this and tackled all my doubts and hesitations. Thanks for holding my hands!!
BTW, I'm so loving your office background. Super pretty, cool and well illuminated.
Thanks so much for your comment, Carles! I can totally relate, the anxiety of doing something wrong surely stays for the first couple of rolls - but luckily then quickly fades away. :) Good luck with your first tries, I am sure it will work out just fine!
And thank you, usually my desk is more chaotic off camera and not as tidy haha, but I also like this space a lot.
The best video on this subject I found, very well explained!
Thanks for the calm and clear video! I've done this before multiple times, but some time ago and I wanted a refresher! The difference for me is that my film is 8mm * 11mm Minox film, and instead of mixing 1L, I need 53ml to fill the whole Minox dev tank. I'm measuring my chemistry with a syringe!
Thank You!! What a great instructional video. This is such a big help for a newbie like me when it comes to developing film. Thanks again!
I needed this! Thanks Karin, great video as always! :)
Awesome, glad this was helpful! :)
Good job! Best explanation for C41 on the internet.
For some reason I always assumed that it would be radically different to processing B&W, but its quite similar! Thank you now I feel the confidence to try it myself
BW is a bit more relaxed process if I can say so :)
What a lovely guide. Thanks for recording it! I'm developing BW for some time already but looking now at C-41 🤔
Never been this early! So excited to learn from your experiences!
Yaaay! I hope it will be helpful to some. :)
Amazing tutorial! Thank you for making this video! Will definitely use it as reference when I develop my color film :D
Thank you! And let me know how your first experience went with color developing if you want to. :)
Thank you very much! You have shown me this is relatively straightforward :D
Thank you for such an amazing video. I will be developing for the first time soon and this helped so much!
Thanks, I am glad it helped! Fingers crossed for your first development, I am sure it will turn out perfectly fine! :)
Trust me this is by far most simplest & beautiful method. Love it.
Thanks for your comment! :)
Thanks Karin. Very helpful and to the point.
What appropriate timing! I just switched from only ever using the Unicolor powder kit to getting a Tetenal kit to try 🙂 Beautifully done, I'm sure many people will find this helpful 👍
Did u find the results different?
@@81springbrook96 I haven't actually developed anything with it yet! But I'll be interested to see if there's much difference
Thank you Hashem, appreciate it! And I would be sooo curious to hear about your experience after using both, powder and liquid developer and would love to know which one you prefer. :)
I am so glad you made this video
the black udder experience caught on camera! xD thankyou for this Karin, will come back to this video one day when I take the dive into developing my own films!
I wanted to edit it out but then I was like - however traumatised I will make my watchers, the black udder has to stay in hahah. Thank you Jay, hope you will enjoy the process once you give it a try. :)
Excellent, mystery solved ! and i have a sous vide bath at home already. Thanks a million
Thank you so much for this video! I just used the guide to develop my first film ever !
Yaaaay! Congrats on your development! :) glad this was helpful
Thank you, clear explanation!
Just bought the exact same kit yesterday ! Great video :)
What a coincidence! :) and thank you!
Thanks for this Karin!
One of the best videos about developing color film.
Thanks so much, glad the video was helpful. :)
Thank you that's just what I needed. Thank you thank you!
Glad this was helpful. Thanks a lot :)
I’ll start with black and white film first. Baby steps ;) Your video gave confidence in the process and that’s amazing. Thanks for this.
That is a good idea, b&w is a bit more forgiving when it comes to temperatures and a good starting point. Have fun and good luck with your first rolls! :)
Hi, thanks for the impressive tutorial! I watched your vids several times already to make sure I understand it all before my first development! Anyway how many times the kit can be used again? Is there any limited amount of time and rolls that can be used with this kit?
Very helpful video. Thank you.
Thnx for the tip of putting a tiny but of film on the spool at the beginning
Great walkthrough! I hope it helps people give this a try, because it only gets easier from the start. :)
Exactly, after the first roll is done, the most stressful part is checked off and it get's easier every time. Thank you, Jamie! :)
Every now and again I start looking into doing C41 myself, but then look at the prices of these kits and promptly snap out of it. Main reason I develop my black and white film is that it's economical. With C41, even if I managed to get all 16 rolls out of the kit (which is hard because I don't shoot all that much colour film and I wouldn't be able to sit on my rolls for half a year) I would still only save like 1 euro per roll compared to having it machine developed in the store down the street. And considering that a roll of Portra costs like 18 euros these days, with the added risk of messing it up, I just can't find a way to justify that.
Excellent. Thanks!
I have zero intention to develop my own film but i just gotta watch that Karin content!
Thank you Phil, much appreciated ☺️
great video!!! Thanks for sharing :)
Very good tutorial and video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful, thanks a lot for the comment :)
Super clear, Thank you
Thank you!
Gold. Thank you.
Very well presented and to the point. I started developing C41 six months ago and I'm getting much better results than the lab's. Only problem is that I didn't have enough rolls to develop in a sort time and the developer got exhausted in about 3 months and 6 rolls. Now for the second bunch, I only made 1/2L working solution and kept the other half undiluted. Also I have realised that extending the development for only 5 to 10" after the first couple of rolls, it doesn't harm and on the contrary you get a little bit denser negative.
That's clever! I would be interested to see how long the undiluted batch will be good. Are you using protection gas or something else to keep it air tight? That might help to improve a longer shelf live. I usually bulk up on some C41 film to develop before mixing up my chemicals. Once I have 6-10 rolls collected I do the first round of developing, since it's pretty likely that I will collect another 10 rolls within 3 months.
@@KarinMajoka I used protection gas for the first time on the undiluted developer in all three bottles, I'm curious to see if it works. The bottles are 100ml as you know but I didn't manage to find smaller 50ml bottles to store them air-tight. Keep up with your great vlog. By the way, I use a Bronica ETRSi as well :) among others.
@@ZisisKardianos Fingers crossed it will work out, but it sounds pretty promising! I have not tried protection gas yet, but I always squeeze the air out of the bottles as much as possible and think this worked alright for me. Awesome, love to hear about more Bronica shooters out there - have fun shooting! :)
This is a really awesome video! I'd love to see B/W and E6 videos, too.
Thank you, I appreciate it! I have never processed E6 myself (because I simply shoot it to rarely), but I will consider a video like this for b&w developing as well! :) however, b&w is not as standardised as C41 developing, so it might make sense to takle each b&w developer individually.
@@KarinMajoka for b/w developing it is probably more like every film/developer combination.
I guess we just have to find you an irresistible offer of 50 rolls with expired slide film to get you into using it more :-)
Ted Forbes on The art of Photography has a good video about c41 developing without a sous vide or water heater. He had the water at 41 degrees celsius. It worked fine for him. So you can skip the water heater, if you want to save money. Thank you for an excellent tutorial!
Thank you!!!
Excellent tutorial video Karin :)
I liked the tip on the pre-wash cycle to bring the film and tank up to the correct processing temperature and more importantly the tip about the correct disposal of the exhausted colour chemicals :)
A question: did you wash the tank stirrer rod after using it to agitate the Dev and before using it again to agitate the Blix?
I don’t know how sensitive these particular chemicals are to cross contamination but If you didn’t clean the tank stirrer rod between chemicals (e.g. using clean water) it may possibly cause an issue with later rolls in the life of that particular batch of Dev and Blix.
Thank you Kevin, I appreciate your comment! I think it’s super important to stay responsible and make sure to dispose of chemicals correctly, so I wanted to include that.
And it’s good that you mention the film stirrer, since that can be a source of cross-contamination! I wash the stirrer and the funnels in-between every time (not visible in the video though) and make sure everything is clean before it comes in contact with different chemicals. :)
Thanks!
Nice video, since I shoot way more black&white I was a bit concious about the shelf life of the mixed chemicals, so I only mixed the chemicals for half a liter and stored the rest under some protection gas, hopefully this works out. Good note on the environmental impact. Thanks for sharing.
That's a pretty good tip, thanks for sharing! :) protection gas is something I should also get my hands on one day. I think only mixing half of the chemicals works well with liquids, but with powder chemicals (I use XTOL for b&w for example which comes in a 5l powder kit) it is not advisable though, since the ingredient mixture in the powder might be spread unevenly.
Thank you
Keep holding my hand Karin.. im still developing Black and While using my Cinestill df96 monobath and the lab box.. I am super grateful for your tutorial. I will actually follow your steps in the future. In the very future.. I'm so scared >_
You have already managed the absolute hardest part which is: getting started. Once you have successfully developed a couple of rolls of b&w, c41 is no challenge anymore! :) Looking forward to your developer comparison video, Alex!
This is what i need. I have a kit and 25 film just waiting for me. And for 4 months ive been scared to start and fail
Super Video, very helpfull, thx!
Thanks a lot for your comment! :)
40 years of thinking it’s undoable at home 🤦🏻♂️
Thanks for clear tutorial 😊
Interesting how these misconceptions hold up. C41 is luckily not as much of black magic as people assume :)
Super erklärt. Wielange hält dein angesetzter Blix? Meiner fängt öfters an auszuflocken wenn ich mal 1-2 Wochen keinen Film entwickle..
Hi Karin! Thank you so much for this video! I have been scared and overwhelmed to try C-41 processing but thanks to your video, I'm going to try it! Question: is it okay to dispose of the "wash" water down the drain? (The tap water used to rinse out everything at the end).
Hi Nicole, thanks so much for your comment, glad to hear you will be trying out C41 development for the first time. It's scary, yet a lot of fun. :) Regarding your question: I dispose my chemicals at a specific disposal center, but I also drain the water I used to wash my film down the drain. I assume that the amount of chemicals diluted in the wash water is small enough to be safe.
Excellent video especially as you emphasized increasing development tines as you reused the chemicals. I used a similar heater to you but was surprised that set at 39C , the water was actually 44C. Invested in a simple digital thermometer, and now set heater to 35 C and get water temp of 39C. Seems not all of these heaters are accurate!
Great video
Thanks! :)
Thanx for sharing. Have you tried to use ordinary water?
I recently got a c41 cinestill set, and although I'm confident enough with the developing, I'm still too scared to use my colour film! Always end up thinking the trip out won't be good enough to warrant a £12 roll, I'll stick with the Ilford. I'll try to pluck up the courage soon!
Love the videos!
Trust me, I have been there and the first roll is scaaaaary as hell! What helped me was to try it out with a super unimportant test-roll for the first time, so even if it would not work out, I would not be too sad about it. And once you managed to develop the first roll, it will get easier - I promise. :)
@@KarinMajoka I got a box of 400h in 120 and I think I'm being way too precious about it, and the purple box looks really nice in the refrigerator... I might pick up some colour plus and just have some fun with a point and shoot for the first roll!
(Getting a weird pull towards ektar 100 at the minute, though, I might have to indulge that too)
Hey Karin! Jimmy here from CrunchyFingers, I just watched your 4x5 video and you mentioned that you couldn’t develop your shots because you don’t have the required equipment. I don’t know if you know about the taco 🌮 method. But basically you take the plastic reels out from your Paterson tank, but keep the center column, in the dark bag bend your 4x5 sheets like a taco **emulsion side in** and use a rubber band around the outside to keep the shape.. that way you can fit 4 sheets at a time. You might feel a bit of resistance when you put the seal back on but it’s normal.. Finally you’re gonna need to over fill the tank (800-1000ml for the 2x135 tank) and develop as usual 😉👍🏼
Hey Jimmy, sorry for the late reply. Thanks so much for your comment, that was super useful! I have heard about the "taco method" before but did not know you could do it without any external devices. I thought you would always have to have some sort of "inlay" for the tank, but the way you described it with the rubber bands makes total sense and sounds fairly simple. Guess I could give that a try if I ever get in touch with another large format camera again. :)
Thanks for this.
Thank you. :)
Thank you so much for the comprehensive guide, I'm planning to develop my own film soon and this video helps me built up my courage. My question is, do I need to wash the film at 38°C water after the blix?
Awesome that you are giving it a try! :) You do not have to be as precise with the washing temperature, between 30 and 40 degrees are recommended.
Cool manual!
Thank you ✌🏼
good video, says alot about the c-41 process, but this is a simple one; the others look hard, as they are designed for special film stocks, they have lots of parts because if you research into it, colour film has multiple layers of dyes, some for each of RED, Green & Blue, some even do UV spectrum. so each step first develops, fixes, washes, then removes the "safety" layer, in prep to develop the next layer of salts, which portray each colour on the film, and each one must be handled sequentially; and if you are doing sheet film, for LF cameras, they have an "anti-halation" layer on the non-emulsion side , this stops light reflecting off of the metal septum(centre of the holder) of the LF film holder, causing CA, and glare/star patterns on the film, this also must be removed, another reason for the pre-wash step.
Great and informative video! Just a quick one: you have shown that only developer was used while the tank was immersed in water. Does this mean that the tank with other two chemicals do not have to be immersed or is it better to do it all submerged in the water? :)
Hey, thanks for your question! I am not sure if I understand it correctly though, could you elaborate what you mean? All three chemicals (DEV, BLIX and STAB) have to be heated up to the right temperature and should therefore be immersed in the water bath. After you used them you could either put them back into the water bath if you plan on developing more rolls or leave them out and let them cool down if you are finished.
Thanks a lot Karin for that. But some photo examples of this development would be nice :D
Thanks! :) that’s some good feedback! I was debating whether or not to include examples of the development, since ultimately the scan creates most of the „look“. But most of my film is self developed and scanned, so any video of mine you watch will include „examples“ of this development method :)
Why has no one thought of doing that with the film retriever/spiral earlier!
Thank you for sharing, Tetenal C41 Colortec Neg kit 1L, how many rolls in a 1L maximum of film develoope?
Okay, merch idea, a stuffed hand with an integrated thermometer so you can "hand hold" during developing. Extra points if on squeezing it plays "I wanna hold your hand" though licensing a Beatles song might get expensive.
Oh my god, this is absolutely brilliant and it would surely come in "handy" hahha
However, in the booklet the pre-heating must not be done in a water bath, only the tank must be heated (also with hot air if desired)
I process my C-41 film stand developed for 45 minutes (Dev time) at room temperature and get wonderful results. I also do the same with ECN-2 processing.
Interesting! I might give that a try one day, thanks for sharing. :)
oh self-develop is so great.😀 A great summary. Also great that you collect the extra chemicals to have them disposed of. environmental awareness is so crucial nowadays.👍 Do you actually feel more connected to your images when you develop them yourself? Do the chemicals actually "go bad" if you only develop, say, one roll a week?
It's a lot of fun! That's such an interesting question about the feeling of connectedness. Somehow I don't as much with color film, since it's a standardised process and there is not so much of a creative choice. But with b&w I do feel more connected since I have to choose which developer will produce the look I am aiming for. The chemicals have a "shelf life" which differs, I think the dev goes bad pretty quickly (6 or 8 weeks or so?), but Blix and Stab are even good for up to half a year. I can't remember if I asked that already, but have you developed our own film before? :)
@@KarinMajoka No, unfortunately not yet. I tell myself every time I see a development video that I definitely want to start. Somehow I have not yet done the last step. However, if most of the chemicals anyway only last 8 weeks is probably rather wasteful.🤔
I would probably rather start B&W with the cinestill monobath. I hope it simply an even stronger bond to the images and work you create.
Just developed my first roll.
Your guidance video was super helpful :)
But i still have one question about the water wash after the blix do you recommend to also collect this water since its probably mixed with a little bit of blix or does the blix not have any affects to the water?
Put the wash water down the normal drain. The amount of blix there in is trivial to the sewer system. Frankly, the raw blix could be handled the same way, as the amount involved would have zero impact on the sewer system. Same for the developer. The real issue over wash water is that most people and videos show a lack of adequate washing of the film.
@@randallstewart175 True. That said, some European countries, such as Germany, have extremely strict laws considering the disposal of chemical waste. What you say, is 100% true, but it can be technically illegal to do so.
I live in Lithuania, and have never asked anybody about the rules of disposal. Nobody really cares, unless you are running a professional lab, where the amounts are much larger. Also, water is not an issue here, and I will wash all my films in running water. No Ilford washes for me!
Fantastisch! Sofortiges Abb. 🙂
Danke und herzlich willkommen! :)
Thank you for the very clear explanation.
The "sous-vide" system seems to be a great alternative to the CineStill TCS !
Could you comment the instructions on the specific part with making a stop bath. When do you place it ? After or before the Bleach-Fix bath ?
Also, they indicate a limitation of 3 rolls/liter when developping ISO400 or higher. Could you comment that limitation based on your experience ?
Thanks for your feedback !
In C41 development you do not need to use a classic "stop-bath" as you do in black and white development. The wash between the Blix and the Stab serves as some sort of stop bath to get rid of the rest of the blix but you can simply use regular tab water for that or use distilled water for the final wash.
What do you mean with the limitation? I am not sure if I understand your question correctly. How many rolls you can develop in one go depends on the capacity of the developing tank you are using. And since you can reuse the chemicals you can use them for multiple rounds of developing. I do not remember the exact number that is mentioned in the manual, but I think tetenal is recommending 12-16 rolls with one 1l kit, in my experience you can even go a bit more often though.
Hi. Thanks so much for your video. I do have a simple question. All the wash and pre-wash is done also with destiled water? If so, how you do to optimise the amount of destiled water used? Thanks so much
No, I only used distilled water for mixing the chemicals and also for the final wash. All other washes are done by using regular tap water :)
Once it's mixed how long can you keep the bottles ? Is it for one use only and then you have to buy all the chemicals again ? thank you :)
Hello, just found your channel and enjoying the content. I was going to sell my old developing outfit but you have changed my mind. I will start to use it again. Just an idea, will there be a printing video in the future? B/W or colour printing. Printing can be as much an art as taking a photograph. Thank you for the video.
Awesome, glad to heat that you changed your mind about developing! :) I am planning to also implement printing videos (solely black and white darkroom printing though, I have not printed color yet), but I am in the middle of re-organising my darkroom, which is why it will take some time to finally get to the point where I can make videos about it.
Hola Karin. Me ha encantado tu video. Hace tiempo que no revelo películas. Pero cuando comencé, lo hice con Tetenal C41. Con el último KIT pude recelar hasta 14 películas (ILFORD, KODAK, FUJIFILM, 35mm y 120) siempre de 2 en 2. No importa que mezcles los fabricantes. Yo no uso calentador todo el tiempo, solo es crítico la temperatura del revelador el resto son mas flexibles. Pero aquí, en el sur de España las temperaturas son cálidas y el baño no se enfría rápido. Suelo revelar TETEMAL a 30ºC es más tranquilo (no tengo prisa). Por cierto yo revelo exactamente como tu lo haces en el video. Pero la agitación (mover la película) debes de hacerlo en los dos sentidos para evitar que arrastres residuos cuando el revelador se va agotando. Por otra parte puedes mezclar los residuos del revelador y el fijador para que se neutralicen y añadirle hidróxido de cal (se utiliza mucho en la construcción para cementos blandos) y mucha agua. De este modo dejan de ser peligrosos para manipularlos y depositarlo en contenedores de residuos. Ojo la cal hace daño en la piel de algunas personas pero no el hidróxido. Me gustaría saber el post proceso que sigues después del revelado de la película. Animo, sigue a sin.
My Spanish is pretty rusty, so I will be answering in English and hope that is alright. Thanks so much for your comment, I appreciate it a lot! It's good to mention to agitate in both directions to avoid residue dragging, I forgot to mention that in the video. I have not done a lot or research on how to "neutralise" chemicals so they are safe to dispose in the sink, but you made me curious to find out some more. I might consider doing a video on my scanning process, thanks for the idea. :)
@@KarinMajoka Hola Karin. Siento no haberme expresado mejor. Si neutralizas los químicos con hidróxido de cal, no debes arrojarlos al desagüe o al fregadero. Tendrías serios problemas en las tuberías. Porque se convierte en una pasta muy espesa, con el tiempo se convierte en una piedra dura de cal. Sólo consiste en neutralizarlos, para que en caso de salpicaduras por accidente no hagan daño. Pero si usas grandes cantidades debes tirarlo a contenedores de residuos químicos, pero neutralizados es mejor. Ojo, algunos residuos fotográficos tienen procesos de restauración (blanco y negro). Si se añade cal no se pueden tratar. Es mejor preguntar.
How long do the chemicals last before they expire? Do they still work after they've expired?
Thank you for this useful video! Do you know what the shelf life of the tetenal kit is? Any advice on where and how to store the chemicals?
The shelf life depends on how you store your chemicals, but if I remember correctly it should be something around 6-12 weeks maybe? Best way to store is dark, cold and airtight. I always squeeze as much air out of the bottles as possible, but there is also a special gas you can buy to make the bottles more airtight.
@@KarinMajoka thank you so much!
Hey Karin, ist es notwendig destilliertes Wasser auch zum Waschen des Films zu benutzen? Oder reicht in diesem Fall Leitungswasser?:) Vielen Dank für das tolle Video!
Freut mich, dass das Video hilfreich war! :) Ich mache in der Regel ganz am Ende nach dem Stab noch zwei kurz Waschdurchgänge mit destilliertem Wasser. Ich habe bisher gute Erfahrungen damit gemacht, ich hab aber auch schon von anderen gehört, das sie entweder gar nicht mehr am Ende waschen oder Leitungswasser nehmen (wobei hier die Gefahr für Wasserflecken auf dem Film höher ist).
@@KarinMajoka Vielen Dank für die schnelle und hilfreiche Antwort!
Hey nice vid. How did you get the film in the tank. I didn't see it.
Ahh, I see. I did not include it since it's technically really only putting the spool into the tank. But every brand works a bit differently when it comes to how to close it properly. With the Paterson tank you will have to make sure to close the top part until you hear a click, while this is not the case with the Jobo tank. Therefore I would advise you to research about your specific tank before doing your first development. :)
cinestill c41 works even at 22C. Anyway the problem I found in c41 is that only last 2 months or so open, so that means you have to develop 16-20 rolls in that time. I dont shoot that much colour film...
It kind of works. Negatives will have the wrong colors, are out of all standards, but can be corrected up to a point with digital post production. If you want to print in a darkroom, steer clear of CineStills, and all other "simplified" kirs for color film. Use the standard process with a separate bleach and fix, in temperatures recommended by the manufacturer. (37,8°C being the standard temperature, and time being 3:15).
Can the bottles be just some regular transparent ones? Or do they have to be lightproof?
In general it could be any type of bottles. But with transparent bottles the chemicals will exhaust more quickly, which is why I would recommend to stick to brown or darker ones.
Very nice video! I'm 45 and have had a camera since I was 10. When I was a teenager I loved developing BW film and had my own darkroom, but I was never brave enough to try C41 colour film and even more scary still would be to try Sides with the narrow exposure window. When I did B&W processing I was sloppy with temps and rough variations were very forgiving, Colour I was always afraid to try. From your video looks like at some point I'll need to buy something for temp control.
Thank you! I totally understand, C41 can be really intimidating in the beginning. But I can assure you: even though color film development is less forgiving than black and white, a little bit of sloppiness won’t ruin color film completely either :)
Thank you! I totally understand, C41 can be really intimidating in the beginning. But I can assure you: even though color film development is less forgiving than black and white, a little bit of sloppiness won’t ruin color film completely either :)
Thank you! I totally understand, C41 can be really intimidating in the beginning. But I can assure you: even though color film development is less forgiving than black and white, a little bit of sloppiness won’t ruin color film completely either :)
Thank you! I totally understand, C41 can be really intimidating in the beginning. But I can assure you: even though color film development is less forgiving than black and white, a little bit of sloppiness won’t ruin color film completely either :)
Thank you! I totally understand, C41 can be really intimidating in the beginning. But I can assure you: even though color film development is less forgiving than black and white, a little bit of sloppiness won’t ruin color film completely either :)
for me there is two main reasons against color developing at home:
1. С41 chemicals expires very quickly so you need to collect your films for batch processing. developing 1 or 2 films is just waste of materials (unlike BW).
2. C41 chemicals are much more harmful than BW dev. when with BW you are safe unless you drink solution or inhale dry concentrate, with C41 even slight vapor from tank can harm you.
I can totally understand that, especially since it’s cheap to develop C41 at a lab and it’s valid to ask if it’s worth the hustle to do it at home. And about the second point you are right that it’s super important to stay cautious. I think people even underestimate how toxic some cleaning supplies can be, since some are even more toxic than developing chemicals.
1. No, they don´t. Kodak and Fuji are extremely conservative when giving any times for shelf lives of chemistry. A mixed and used C-41 developer will keep at least two months in a closed bottle.
2. Not actually. Bleach will stain, but it is not very toxic. Color developers are as harmful as classic B&W developers, such as Rodinal or HC-110. Fixer is basically the same as in B&W. Some earlier processes, such as K-14 (for Kodachrome), C-22 (predecessor of C-41, used before 1974) and Cibachrome had some irritant and dangerous to the environment chemicals. These processes have been discontinued years ago.
why the instruccions that come with the chemicals says 8min for the developer? im so confused
Scannst du die Bilder dann selbst oder schickst du die Negative dann zu einem Labor? Ich entwickle meine s/w Filme selber und mache auch die Abzüge daheim. Aber die Vorstellung die Filme einzuspannen sagt mir leider gar nicht zu. (Ich habe aber keinen Scanner und denke mir immer die 200€ plus x für einen guten Scanner kann ich auch für Entwicklung + Scan zahlen und hab den Ärger nicht). Aber ich muss zugeben, das Entwickeln an sich sieht bei dir im Video nicht schlimmer aus als s/w.
Ich scanne selber! Habe mit gebraucht einen Epson 500 für um die 50€ gekauft und bin soweit ganz zufrieden damit. Ich habe aber auch eine Dunkelkammer im Keller (leider wegen der Winter lange nicht mehr benutzt) und mache gelegentlich auch Abzüge in schwarz weiß. Ich kann also gut verstehen, dass scannen nicht jedermanns Sache ist, ich scanne eigentlich alles und selektiere dann nach dem scannen was es wert wäre zu drucken :)
@@KarinMajoka Oh, das ist ein guter Deal. Vielleicht gibt es ja in der Zukunft mal ein Video zum Scannen? :D P.S.: Ich finde ja, dass es pure Magie ist, wenn sich das Positiv entwickelt. In der DuKa könnt ich Stunden verbringen :D
Which film retriever is that? Thanks for the video!!
It’s a super old one I found at a flea market, I cannot remember the brand, sorry!
@@KarinMajoka I bought the Matin version and it’s working perfectly so far. This step was what got me to finally go for developing using a bag at home. The thought of opening the canister blind was daunting. That being said, I have already had two rolls misfeed once in the bag and had to figure it out manually anyways. Wasn’t a big deal. Thank you!
I'll try to develop b&w film for the first time (i'm really scared about the loading part and the drying part) I hope it comes out alright... Hopefully, with time i'll also develop c41
In this video I do not go in depth about the loading part, since it is a bit specific to the developing tank used. But there are plenty of great videos explaining this part in detail. Good luck with your first rolls! :)
@@KarinMajoka btw i was really nervous about it, but it turned out alright! only some photos (like 3) didnt look that great... Anyway, I'll try developing c41 sometime... Since I have MANY rolls at home (and i want to cut developing costs)
Idk if u know anything about this, but could u maybe do a video on remjet and motion picture film?
Do i need distilled water?
does someone know the temperature controller device's name? thank u
I use a regular Sous Vide stick. You can also use a dedicated device such as the TCS by Cinestill.
Ich habe mir auch schon vor einigen Monaten ein c41 Kit gekauft, habe nur noch keine Gelegenheit gehabt Filme damit zu entwicken. Neulich habe ich drei Filme gefunden, von denen ich hoffe, das auf einem Fotos mit Brighitte Mira von einer Presse Konferenz in Berlin sind, die ich seit Jahren vermisst habe.
Das hat sich bestimmt angefühlt wie Weihnachten und Geburtstag zusammen einen lange vergessenen Film wieder zu finden, oder? 😬 dann mal viel Erfolg beim entwickeln, ich hoffe die vermissten Bildern sind mit drauf!
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i am actually really just shortly before developing the first time :D
That's great... But. How do you stop the cat ruining it all ?
Finally somebody asking the real questions haha. My cat ALWAYS jumps on my changing bag while I am loading film. ALWAYS.
Yes, I love a big bottle of STAB (ouch!)
😬✌🏼
Can the chemicals be reused?
Oops. You answered that. 🤣🤣🤣
haha, no worries! Yes they can, usually 12 rolls or so are recommended (but you can go a bit longer when storing the chemicals right)