Great video, I didn’t realize it was that easy to replace the rear pads. When do you recommend checking your swing arm. I have a 79 Suzuki Gs1000L I have had it since new. It has 50.000 miles on it. But it’s never been ridden hard just a lot of passenger miles. Plus those needle bearings might be hard to find. You’re opinion would be appreciated.
I would certainly have a look at them. Maybe a clean and new grease is all that is needed. With the wheel off and the shocks out of the way there should be no sideways movement of the swingarm. It has been a while since I have sourced GS parts from a Suzuki dealer, but I would like to think swingarm bearings and bushes are still available, failing that, there are some NOS and aftermarket suppliers on the internet.
I just finished the Bushing Video recommend at 13:44. Aesthetically an awesome repair, but I have 2 questions. 1: when drilling out the larger hole for the bushing, doesn't that weaken the stability of the connection point? The large hole for the Bush seems to remove a lot of material. 2: How about the Brass Bush itself? if the steel has been worn oblong, wont the brass wear away or "squish out" very quickly?
Thanks for watching and chasing up the recommended video. In answer to your questions, 1. I don't think it does weaken the stability of the connection point, because the bush is an interferenace fit and in the case of the swing arm end provides a much larger contact area for the bolt which is acting as a bearing shaft; 2. the oblong wear was in the aluminium of the swing arm and the aluminium of the brake calliper, the brass bushings will wear but at a much slower rate than the aluminium. I could have rebuilt the hole with weld in both the swing arm and the brake calliper. I would have to dissassemble the calliper to prevent the rubber bits being cooked and I don't like to do that with old bits that are working well otherwise. Welding the swingarm, could cause distortion and if that is the case, aluminium box does not go well in the hydraulic press, sometimes cracking instead of bending.
Ahh aluminum! I use brass busings on steel shafts, so my experience is the opposite, the brass bushing wears, to protect the more expensive steel parts.
one last thing... on the brake caliper; I know this is a "Maker Video", so rebuilding and reusing are the words of the day, but I heard you mention rebuilding the brake caliper, and now seating a new bushing, if you ran a commercial brake shop, would you just replace the caliper? or are repair time ,and replacement cost near to equal?
Good question. If I have somebody elses bike in, I would just ring my local bike wrecker to source a replacement bit, or if warranted, a dealer. These bikes are 40 odd years old and some bits are not available new, so in those cases repair is the only way to go. I actually have a box full of old callipers which I have picked up cheap at swap meets and could have recycled one of those, but I would have to rebuild it using up my valuable stock of brand new brake rubbers. The calliper was in good shape, other than the oblong torque arm attachment, so bushing it was a quick and easy option. I guess I could have used aluminium to make the bush, cutting down the unsprung weight, but those few ounces are not noticable.
Great video, I didn’t realize it was that easy to replace the rear pads. When do you recommend checking your swing arm. I have a 79 Suzuki Gs1000L I have had it since new. It has 50.000 miles on it. But it’s never been ridden hard just a lot of passenger miles. Plus those needle bearings might be hard to find. You’re opinion would be appreciated.
I would certainly have a look at them. Maybe a clean and new grease is all that is needed. With the wheel off and the shocks out of the way there should be no sideways movement of the swingarm. It has been a while since I have sourced GS parts from a Suzuki dealer, but I would like to think swingarm bearings and bushes are still available, failing that, there are some NOS and aftermarket suppliers on the internet.
I just finished the Bushing Video recommend at 13:44. Aesthetically an awesome repair, but I have 2 questions. 1: when drilling out the larger hole for the bushing, doesn't that weaken the stability of the connection point? The large hole for the Bush seems to remove a lot of material. 2: How about the Brass Bush itself? if the steel has been worn oblong, wont the brass wear away or "squish out" very quickly?
Thanks for watching and chasing up the recommended video. In answer to your questions, 1. I don't think it does weaken the stability of the connection point, because the bush is an interferenace fit and in the case of the swing arm end provides a much larger contact area for the bolt which is acting as a bearing shaft; 2. the oblong wear was in the aluminium of the swing arm and the aluminium of the brake calliper, the brass bushings will wear but at a much slower rate than the aluminium. I could have rebuilt the hole with weld in both the swing arm and the brake calliper. I would have to dissassemble the calliper to prevent the rubber bits being cooked and I don't like to do that with old bits that are working well otherwise. Welding the swingarm, could cause distortion and if that is the case, aluminium box does not go well in the hydraulic press, sometimes cracking instead of bending.
Ahh aluminum! I use brass busings on steel shafts, so my experience is the opposite, the brass bushing wears, to protect the more expensive steel parts.
@@markwhalen5300 Hopefully they will last long enough, that is 40 years worth of wear, so hopefully they are good for another 40 🙂
one last thing... on the brake caliper; I know this is a "Maker Video", so rebuilding and reusing are the words of the day, but I heard you mention rebuilding the brake caliper, and now seating a new bushing, if you ran a commercial brake shop, would you just replace the caliper? or are repair time ,and replacement cost near to equal?
Good question. If I have somebody elses bike in, I would just ring my local bike wrecker to source a replacement bit, or if warranted, a dealer. These bikes are 40 odd years old and some bits are not available new, so in those cases repair is the only way to go. I actually have a box full of old callipers which I have picked up cheap at swap meets and could have recycled one of those, but I would have to rebuild it using up my valuable stock of brand new brake rubbers. The calliper was in good shape, other than the oblong torque arm attachment, so bushing it was a quick and easy option. I guess I could have used aluminium to make the bush, cutting down the unsprung weight, but those few ounces are not noticable.