Video

Thanks Tony 😀

Thanks mate 👍👍👍

Good advice, thanks for those suggestions.👍👍👍

The oil cooler will have two hoses running to the motor. On the motor there should be "in" or "inlet" embossed over or under where one of the lines goes into the motor. Loosen the hose at the motor so that the connection leaks, but is still in place - might pay to put a tray under the bike to catch the oil - start the bike and the oil should pump out of the joint - that will tell you if the oil is flowing through the cooler, then provided the fins of the cooler are not blocked it should be doing its job. Hope that helps.

I am away from the workshop at the moment, but I thing it is 42mm or 1 and 5/8 inches. But I can not be sure of that, but if you hold ruller against the bottom chrome leg and eye-ball both sides, that will give you the size. Hope that helps.

Good question, I do not think you need to put any lube there, but if you want to, you could use ordinary high temperature wheel bearing grease. The conductive greases are ones like copper or zinc grease, the basic lube greases are generally non-conductive. Hope that helps.

​@@whitedoggarageThanks, all the best

@@alittlecrinkley232 👍👍👍

Z is the number of teeth on the gear you fit to the bottom of the train, that is the input to the quick change gear box. For 14 tpi the plate on mine shows Z to be a 24 tooth gear. I hope that makes sense.

Great to here, thanks for your comment 👍👍👍

It sounds to me that you have not got the starter's gear properly engaging the starting gear train. That can be because the gear it engages has slipped out of alignment or the gear on the starter is not properly lined up. My preference would be to pull the alternator cover off and see what the gears have done, but you could try pulling the starter motor out and reinserting it first, Hope that helps.

Thanks for watching.

Thankyou, glad you found the video useful.

Thanks for those comments and also for watching the video. That is a good point on the emery paper. Thanks again 👍👍👍

Glad to be of help and thankyou for watchinhg the video. Goodluck with your repair.

Thankyou for finding and watching the video. Good luck with your repair. Happy riding 😀

Glad you appreciated the video, and happy that it gives you inspiration for your own table 👍👍👍

Sorry to hear that, personally, I have found all the big four Japanese manufacturers bikes have problems from time to time.

@@whitedoggarage yeaaah , i was just unlucky this time. But thanks to videos from yt and the manual i know what to do. I just need some free time 😂😁

@@klauscata225 Good luck!

Thanks for that comment, I try to make these videos be a useful resource in case you want to be shown how to do the job yourself. Thanks again.

Not my bike, but from memory I think it had done about 50,000 miles.

@@whitedoggarage thanks, it`s a great bike without electronics, i prefer that.

@@MarineEnfield09 me too.

People I have met over the years who have bought the 960, have been very happy with them, they are a good unit. No, I do not bother warming it up in the machines here. They are gear boxes really, and do not have the all the little oil passages that engines have. You never get all the oil out any how, so you are always diluting your old oil with new oil. So, for me, I wait till the oil drain is down to drop by drop and then put the plug back in and refill. I hope that helps, thanks for watching the video.

Btw Bob. Mine has an issue with the direction of feed lever. It's fine when you swing the lever to the right but when you swing it to the left, it overshoots and the gears don't properly engage. When I brought this up with H&F, they said "They're all like that. Nothing we can do. Live with it." Very typical H&F. Does yours do this?

@@dougsullivan9022 Yes it does, you get used to it after a while I guess, but it is annoying.

Thankyou for watching the video and happy that it helps. Thread cutting is always fun. That video is just one of the many ways you can do it. I have another, which I have yet to edit, which features cutting a taper thread using a non-traditional approach. Might air in September, all going well.

Rowan, more than happy with it, and I have had no issues, it is a great machine. When I did my trade, welders were no where near as sophisticated as they are today. As a consequence, I probably have actions that I do, but I am not aware of, that negates the need on my part for those helpful features like 'burnback adjustment'. This unit does the job I want it to do, which includes sheet metal to truck chassis, and at no time have I thought, I wish it could do something extra. Hope that helps you with your decision. Bob

There should be a plate on the front, with a section labeled indicator table (at the bottom section on mine). This is where you find the chasing dial number to use, depends on the TPI number. Hope that helps. PS: HM51 mill, I am so jealous 😁

@@whitedoggarage I must be having "senior moments" as mine has that indicator table too. Should have checked more thoroughly, thanks for the guidance

@@allanb1778 No worries, good luck with your turning.

Nice coincidence.....I have the same two machines. AL336D and HM51B. Have you had yours for long?

@@dougsullivan9022 Bought them both new from Hare & Forbes about 4yrs ago

Yes, there should be a bag of gears come with the machine. I chose the AL336 primarily on bed length and swing over axis, especially with the removable bed section. A friend of mine, teased me about not getting a metric one, but I have not regreted getting the one I have. Regarding the bench mill, I have an earlier version of the 48B, a 45, I think. The important feature is the dovetailed vertical axis, which means you can easily return to zero if needed. Mine does not have the DRO, but I will probably retro fit one in time. They are good machines and really complement the lathe.

My reference says 98mm, but the air gap can be varied as part of adjusting the suspension to suit your body size and riding needs. A shorter air gap makes the suspension stiffer and a longer air gap makes it softer. Fork oil weight also affects the ride. Now, stiffer sounds good for performance, but not if the wheels are chattering, that is lifting off the ground over the bumps, softer would be better on rough roads. The suspension specialist recommendation of 110mm, might be better for everyday riding. Also are the fork springs still stock, sometimes aftermarket springs need a different oil volume, because the springs occuppy a different volume. I hope that helps, Bob.

@@whitedoggarage ah thank you great advice , yes all stock internals on forks and I ride two's up with the wife so we weigh about 290 lbs together and stock fork oil for the hayabusa is 5w and I've just bought the maxima 7w fork oil so I might go with 110mm air gap for a plusher ride and then if it's bottoming out with added preload I can always removing cap and add and equal amount to each fork leg to compensate , I guess that would be easier than having to much fork oil and not be able to take oil out as easy , maybe safer bet to go to 110m with a thicker oil ?

@@bccapone837 Sounds like a good plan.

Thankyou and I am glad the video was helpful and thanks for subscribing.

Glad you found the video useful, thanks.

The bike owner got them off eBay, and I know nothing about their source I am sorry. I did have a quick look on eBay and I see this set as an example: www.ebay.com.au/itm/190649985905?epid=660481590&itmmeta=01J24Z2NP0B3Y923G1P8FW49Y4&hash=item2c639feb71:g:vdsAAOSwLjRhBbO2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAJZH4EbFxK8DasSkK0UUQe7KUid6%2BisCTHlYuTrVcnmMkQtt0mo3Am%2BsvFKZ5D%2BqrFz0nXK%2BPB3RNXcQdUNJY%2FWRB5tSrzqyRZ2f8Bkl3qn2qF7TA0lc%2B4LhkAIIvstG0%2B4mmb0FboGThA5es2jRagx2387%2BWEUev5cOYnwKaRLJVEbH9yyj5wDaMO9rSmI0dvbtjYCxBEMvd42IQQDp2miDoMFXLwUjm6koEve2SomYaESvQt%2F%2BwI3Ii3GW81Y7BqiLoRCDhkA9aSqKaYolITOwRkdheQwRa%2BM87eD%2BzGDnQDyH70jtBfUGJTob55BPGHj4TbnSbnq6V2vwPLDsFyQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5Dbip-RZA Hope that helps, Bob

@@whitedoggarage thank you 🙏🏼

@@anthonyaranda8775 no problems

Glad to be of help, thankyou very much for watching and very happy that the video helps you. 👍👍👍

Sounds like you got a bad one. Mine has been okay, my issues are really about the layout, I mean most centre lathes have the same sort of layout, but it is the little things they could do better. Always good to have another opinion though, so thankyou.

Thanks for the lesson. This is good stuff. I subscribed

@@Roadscore Thankyou, greatly appreciated, wont always be motorcycle stuff I am afraid, but every few episodes you can get lucky 😁.

Agree, you need to investigate the cooling system. I think you are probably right about the missing or wide open thermostat, assuming of course that the fan is off when you are seeing the 150 degrees F. I would assume that the thermo switch has failed and the previous owner has by passed it with the toggle switch, the cheaper option I guess. You should fix that as well, you want to be watching the traffic and road condition when you ride along, not the temperature gauge.

About 70 pounds, not too heavy for me, but I thought I would mess around for the video 😁.

I just received this exact one as a birthday present from my lovely wife :) looking forward to shaping up some patch panels :)

@@bleedingear1952 Lucky you, always love a woman who understands a man's need for tools 😁👍👍👍

Good point, this video is really about the GSXR750, thanks 👍👍👍.

Good question, it will not be your starter motor as it is just a DC motor powered directly (without a fuse) from the battery. If the fuse is popping in the circuit to the solenoid, then the problem will lie in a short to earth in the wiring system to it. Have a look at the wires between the starter button and the solenoid, is there any obvious breaks or melts in the insulation. There will be two wires to the solenoid, one is the power supply and the other is the earth. If you have a multimeter, set it on resistance, disconnect the two wires from the harness and check resistance from either wire to the negative terminal of the battery. It should be infinite, if it is low then the solenoid has shorted out and should be replaced. Hope that helps.

@@whitedoggarage I replaced the solenoid still the fuse blew again so it must be a short but no nothing is obvious

@@albertlee6423 That makes it hard. Really it becomes an exercise in tracing voltage leakage along the wiring system. However, I would be tempted to open up the starter button handlebar switch and look for a short there possibly to the handlebar.

Thanks, and thank you for watching the video. 👍👍👍

Thankyou very much, greatly appreciated 👍👍👍

Great question, and maybe I should cover more of this solution in another video. For you however, I would look at the following, probably in this order (1) Is your kill switch off? If it is on, Suzuki wiring results in the starter circuit being dead, so no starter noise. (2) Is your battery okay? A near dead battery will usually power the lights, but when the starter button is pushed, the lights go out and no starter noise. (3) Check the fuses, I am not sure what the fuse for the starter circuit is called, maybe labelled ignition or maybe main - perhaps just check them all. One other thing it can be, is the starter solenoid itself. A broken coil or bad conectors can mean the solenoid is not activated when you push the starter button and no starter noise. I would usually look at it using a multimeter measuring resistance accross the coil and whether the coil is getting power, but if you do not have a meter, it is still probably worth tracing the thin wires back from the starter solenoid to their connectors, discconecting them, cleaning the connectors and putting it back together, Connectors can corrode and build up resistance after years of use. I hope this all helps, and thanks again for asking the question, as it may be of help to others.

Good question, assuming you have electrical power in that wire, if the fan does not run, it needs to be replaced. But be careful to check that the lead into the fan is intact as well.

Thanks mate 😊

Thankyou for your kind comment and thankyou for watching the video.

Glad it could help and thanks for watching.

Good question, I did that one a long time ago, but I think I isolated it to a starter motor problem, and then took it back to the workshop to do a bench job on it. In my experience, it is usually the brushes as it is here, but I decided to make the video and show the whole starter motor checking process. If you want more on diagnosing a starting problem, I have another video you should watch: czcams.com/video/hlClh8n1e-4/video.html , hope that helps.

Thankyou for watching 😁

Oh dear! Thanks for watching the video.

Excellent question, the started constains a series of permanent magnets and this can make the armature quite hard to turn. You should be able to turn it by hand, but it should resist your turning. However it should not be impossible to turn. If it turns quite quickly with the battery test, it is probably okay. Hope that helps.

@@whitedoggarage The problem was that I took everything apart and checked piece by piece , after cleaning and checking brushes and the rest of pieces I started to reinstall all the parts again following the manual step by step and then is when I realised that one washer was missing.... so I decided to to put the missing washer. This washer was the problem, once I took it of the pinion started to turn by hand easily. I guess one of the previus owners took that washer out because of the same problem. Now that I took the washer out the pinion turns fine by hand and turns also fine conected to a battery. Thanks for your answer. Greetings from Spain dude!

@@bestione761 The pictures of those washers in the manual catch a lot of people out. They are actually thrust washers and how many go there depends on the armature when it is made. They are there to take up subtle differences in manufacture I think. There can be one or two, whatever number they came from the factory with is the number the starter should have, so you did the right thing with one washer. Good pickup on your part and something for other viewers to note. Greetings from Australia too, Bob.

Thanks for watching and I am glad you found the video useful,

Oh dear, it sounds like you are getting oil in the coolant. You will need to investigate the cause, the video will help here. Oil in the coolant without bubbles in the system, indicates to me you may have split accross from the oil channel to a water channel in the headgasket, or a gasket failure on the coolant pump. Let me know how you go?

@@whitedoggarage haven’t got the time to start pulling it apart at the moment unfortunately. it’s going into my local garage this week hopefully it’s nothing serious I’ll keep ya posted on it.

@@jimmyboimazarti1234 Good luck, hopefully it is just something simple 👍👍