A suction line dryer should be installed vertically or it can become an oil trap. Sense this is at least the 3rd compressor in this unit it shouldn’t matter. Suction dryers on the vapor line will not require more refrigerant due to it being on the vapor side. If you installed a larger liquid dryer than yes more refrigerant will be needed. A suction dryer aka burn out kit should be removed after 24 to 48 hours of use. About a week. Perform an acid test to see if you need to replace both dryers. If the test is clean remove the suction dryer and replace the liquid dryer. Customers don’t like this expense so the dryers are normally left as is. Good job on the repiping. A discharge line should have a minimum of 4 90s. This keeps the pulse of the compressor from cracking the lines at the tube sheet. Their will be a test next week. I hope you’re taking notes lol.
A similar scenario happened to me. Another co. replaced a compressor and installed a drier on the discharge line. The new compressor started blowing the internal relief. I cut out the drier, put a new one in on the liquid line, and added a suction filter. Shortly after start up it pumped down and sure enough desiccant clogged the inlet of the TXV. I got lucky and saw a prominent frost right before the TXV. Cut the liquid line and all the desiccant poured out. Blew the system out with nitrogen and all was well... Learning the hard way works! Never forgot that one and have seen driers on discharge lines way too often. Depending on age and condition I would quote a new system...
Another great video, really enjoy the in-depth explanation especially cutting evaporator and showing the clogged orfice! Also I do enjoy the longer videos, makes me feel like I get the “ full picture” in what it takes todo the job. Keep up the good morning work!
I envy how calm you stay while finding out after all that work that you have to tear back into it. Everytime it happens to me I get mad as hell. And yes you can purge nitro into the evap coil and use a torch on the or face tubes it will smoke pretty good not highly recommended but will work for a customer on a budget. Great work love the videos🤘
Don’t have much of a load inside with return air at 70 degrees... I always try to remember to open the manifold on low and high side and zero out my 550’s before connecting to a system. 🤘 good repair brotha way to be thorough. I’ve only worked for one customer that allowed us to return to remove suction line driers out of the system of compressor was burn out. I don’t install them unless I am able to return to remove them. Usually just add acid neutralizer to compressor oil and triple evac with new liquid drier and don’t have any issues usually.
Bloody good video trilogy, mate , I thoroughly enjoyed them all , had to go grocery shopping before the store closed , but had to finish the vid 1st , now it's too late to go but I prefer watching your stuff ! Really nicely done , I appreciate how you take us all the way along the ride and how you show your entire thinking process , you seem like a humble bloke , Kudos on that again .👍👍👍 Also , I'm really starting to dislike digital gauges , I've had bad experiences with my testos , there's nothing like a good ol' set of good quality analogs ! Again , fantastic trilogy , sir , glad I watched it , learned a lot , cheers 👍👍👍
Thanks Sterling- glad you got something out of it, that's was a fun job and also a rollercoaster of emotion, lol--- glad it's behind me now, untill this coming summer. Thanks for the feedback.
That's the first for me.lol Never heard of anyone installing a filter drier on the hot gas side of the compressor. No wonder why you were faced with all of these problems. Nice work fixing it right! Great video as well. Love watching your videos on CZcams.
To try lessen the supply spilt just a tad, and increase the suction pressure at the same time, just increase the load by increasing the fan speed. This should increase the suction pressure and lessen the split and increase the superheat too.
Excellent video! Time involved is about the same as heating the orifices, but once completed you know they ARE clean....just costs a Few Dollars More. Appreciate your work and videos.
Trane makes a txv retrofit kit for these units as they are notorious for clogged headers , and the kit is easier to install than new header or evap change out
Yeah, phosgene gas, I got a good snout full this morning... I converted an old R12 to R134a, emptied the compressor oil into a container to measure it (mineral swapped to POE), I watched that mineral oil boil out R12 for about 20 minutes... I have got to get me one of those power hacksaws too. Great video, thank you!
Curious HVAC guy me neither, but this was a 30+ year old True R12 machine, all original and I’m guessing the first time the system was opened since new (it was built back in the days of quality...)
Great video as usual, but I cringed when you used that sawzall!! Yikes! Tubing cutter all day long. No way would I risk copper chips in the piping. But that's just me.
I cant argue with that way of thinking, Ive done it both ways and your right you do run the risk of getting copper chips in the pipe unless you go back and blow nitro through the open system-- I appreciate the feedback
I do agree with HVAC Uncensored, just remember why you started doing these videos and don’t let the popularity get to you. It seems some people get to a certain level of subscribers and it makes them change, they start sounding like the judging trolls that they experience over the life of their channel. Just keep it real and you will go far👍
Replaceable core suction shell? Liquid line refrigeration ball valve to pump system down would allow easy suction line filter/ drier change out... could even install felt core to continuous catch any noncondensables. Just my two cents. Great videos
Hey Joe- you make a good point, I did suggest the ball valves to make the future replacement easier but this particular customer didnt want to spend anymore money even though I explained there may still be some contaminants in the system and this would be a sort of insurance on there investment- but they rejected all my quotes after I was done.
I used worked at trane for 8 years in lynn haven florida. Five years of it was making them coils. I used to know exactly how many fins went on every coil part number back then by heart. Used to be fun to beat up scrap coils too before the scrap bin
Is that unit a heat pump with the pistons? I recently did some work on a smaller trane rooftop. Had one unit froze up evaporator from a greasy filter. Unit number 2 kept cutting out on a pressure switch. I was surprised they don't have a delay timer on trying to restart. It's about 7 years old air conditioning and gas burner only and 3 phase, with an txv. Seemed to be getting a hot low pressure line. The indoor 3 phase fan motor is running in the right direction. I can't put guages on it. No license.
@@curioushvacguy6876 I can understand why.. When you have a problem like you had with that unit, you really want to get the to the bottom of the problem.. Do you have any videos of the gunk/Vax you had in your pistons? Love you channel
Another great video and editing. Got straight and to the point and even showed the orifices. With those testos I’ve noticed I have to open hoses to atmosphere and make sure they are zerod correctly before use every time. Btw ever tried heating orifices while hitting them with high pressure nitro to clear blockages instead of replacing evap? I’ve never done it but wonder how often it works.
Curious HVAC guy thanks. That at least confirms that usually best to just replace the coil or at least header as we always do. And it took me forever to get used to zeroing testos before connecting, after being used to my analogs for so long prior.
Curious HVAC guy I open all valves before putting away so I have to make sure to turn them on and close valves before connecting. Finally it started reminding me to zero them at that point. Then connecting to system.
Thanks for the videos really helps us newbies. Question would it have worked heating up the header while purging nitrogen through it? Because when u heated it u had refrigerant in the system if I'm not mistaken.
How many hours did u put in on that job my boss would have asked if I was marrying the job? I liked the video trilogy and u never panicked throughout. Overcame and adapted
Maybe it is just my testos but anytime I pull a vacuum through them the pressure never seems right until I zero them back out. I stopped using them for vacuum because of it.
Another great video bro..question why didn't you cut in the suction drier over a little to help with brazing? Or was that the only place it would sit right? Thanks for the view into the evap coil never have seen the inside before
Hey Duke- to be honest I do not know, I left that for my customer to work out with that previous company, its a large retail chain so they have managers in place to deal with issues like that. Thanks for watching
Why would the manufacturer put pistons in all those lines? Are they crazy? Are they serviceable? I think I'd have a coil built instead of getting the same thing.
Awesome name first, lol-Yes your exactly right and I did quote to replace that unit and expressed my concerns but the customer wanted to go that route instead. Thanks for the feedback though
Hey Ryan- I didnt find out an exact reason, the next few times I used them I made sure to zero them out and havent had that issue-- hopefully I dont have that issue again. Tanks for watching
Hey Douro20- they do not require me to wear long sleeves, its a personal choice, but my boss always looks at me weird in the middle of summer-- but I like to keep the sun off me and I work on fryers occasionally and long sleeves are key to keeping the grease off me
You told us about Phosgene Gas. If it was Phosgene Gas you would have been dead before you could tell us. Remember the Japanese Train Station? They took one breath and died.
Burnt R-22 does indeed produce Phosgene Gas. A good whiff can knock you out but being outside makes it easier to work with. Otherwise HVAC techs would be dining left and right...
Great stuff Bill!
A suction line dryer should be installed vertically or it can become an oil trap. Sense this is at least the 3rd compressor in this unit it shouldn’t matter. Suction dryers on the vapor line will not require more refrigerant due to it being on the vapor side. If you installed a larger liquid dryer than yes more refrigerant will be needed. A suction dryer aka burn out kit should be removed after 24 to 48 hours of use. About a week. Perform an acid test to see if you need to replace both dryers. If the test is clean remove the suction dryer and replace the liquid dryer. Customers don’t like this expense so the dryers are normally left as is. Good job on the repiping. A discharge line should have a minimum of 4 90s. This keeps the pulse of the compressor from cracking the lines at the tube sheet. Their will be a test next week. I hope you’re taking notes lol.
Great video. Seeing the iced up expansion orifices made it click how it works. This package unit has the whole system right in front of you.
your exactly right--
A similar scenario happened to me. Another co. replaced a compressor and installed a drier on the discharge line. The new compressor started blowing the internal relief. I cut out the drier, put a new one in on the liquid line, and added a suction filter. Shortly after start up it pumped down and sure enough desiccant clogged the inlet of the TXV. I got lucky and saw a prominent frost right before the TXV. Cut the liquid line and all the desiccant poured out. Blew the system out with nitrogen and all was well... Learning the hard way works! Never forgot that one and have seen driers on discharge lines way too often. Depending on age and condition I would quote a new system...
Another great video, really enjoy the in-depth explanation especially cutting evaporator and showing the clogged orfice! Also I do enjoy the longer videos, makes me feel like I get the “ full picture” in what it takes todo the job. Keep up the good morning work!
Thank goodness for the leaving in the so called boring stuff, that's where I'm learning at! All levels out here in world, I'm playing catch up, thanks
I envy how calm you stay while finding out after all that work that you have to tear back into it. Everytime it happens to me I get mad as hell. And yes you can purge nitro into the evap coil and use a torch on the or face tubes it will smoke pretty good not highly recommended but will work for a customer on a budget. Great work love the videos🤘
Don’t have much of a load inside with return air at 70 degrees... I always try to remember to open the manifold on low and high side and zero out my 550’s before connecting to a system. 🤘 good repair brotha way to be thorough. I’ve only worked for one customer that allowed us to return to remove suction line driers out of the system of compressor was burn out. I don’t install them unless I am able to return to remove them. Usually just add acid neutralizer to compressor oil and triple evac with new liquid drier and don’t have any issues usually.
Yeah funny thing they havent approved the quote to return and remove that drier
thanks for showing us the fixed orifice clogged and unclogged. that was educational.
Bloody good video trilogy, mate , I thoroughly enjoyed them all , had to go grocery shopping before the store closed , but had to finish the vid 1st , now it's too late to go but I prefer watching your stuff !
Really nicely done , I appreciate how you take us all the way along the ride and how you show your entire thinking process , you seem like a humble bloke , Kudos on that again .👍👍👍
Also , I'm really starting to dislike digital gauges , I've had bad experiences with my testos , there's nothing like a good ol' set of good quality analogs !
Again , fantastic trilogy , sir , glad I watched it , learned a lot , cheers 👍👍👍
Thanks Sterling- glad you got something out of it, that's was a fun job and also a rollercoaster of emotion, lol--- glad it's behind me now, untill this coming summer. Thanks for the feedback.
Seen someone with same problem cut out pistons and put a rev with distributor tubes -nice work
Thanks
That's the first for me.lol Never heard of anyone installing a filter drier on the hot gas side of the compressor. No wonder why you were faced with all of these problems. Nice work fixing it right! Great video as well. Love watching your videos on CZcams.
Thanks
To try lessen the supply spilt just a tad, and increase the suction pressure at the same time, just increase the load by increasing the fan speed. This should increase the suction pressure and lessen the split and increase the superheat too.
Excellent video! Time involved is about the same as heating the orifices, but once completed you know they ARE clean....just costs a Few Dollars More. Appreciate your work and videos.
You need a heat blanket and wet rag to keep the filter cool and the wires and insulation safe👍.
They work really well, i use wetrag on txvs otherwise i just wrap in an actual wet rag. Its cheaper and cleaner imo
Great video and explanation! Thanks for showing us those pistons in the distribution tubes of the evaporator!
Try some wet rag or hot block on driers you will love it
Good video, thank you very much for your teaching,very instructive,God Bless
Thanks Sal- much appreciated
Trane makes a txv retrofit kit for these units as they are notorious for clogged headers , and the kit is easier to install than new header or evap change out
Yeah, phosgene gas, I got a good snout full this morning... I converted an old R12 to R134a, emptied the compressor oil into a container to measure it (mineral swapped to POE), I watched that mineral oil boil out R12 for about 20 minutes... I have got to get me one of those power hacksaws too. Great video, thank you!
Curious HVAC guy me neither, but this was a 30+ year old True R12 machine, all original and I’m guessing the first time the system was opened since new (it was built back in the days of quality...)
I would have thought that the power hack saw would leave a lot of metal filings in the copper pipes
Good one! I was waiting this third part. Thank you very much for the tear-up. Those orifices in the evaporator aren't so much common here. 👍
That was a great series!
Great video as usual, but I cringed when you used that sawzall!! Yikes! Tubing cutter all day long. No way would I risk copper chips in the piping. But that's just me.
I cant argue with that way of thinking, Ive done it both ways and your right you do run the risk of getting copper chips in the pipe unless you go back and blow nitro through the open system-- I appreciate the feedback
Wow - took 200 psi to unclog that when it was cut apart - that thing was never going to come clean. Good call on replacing the whole thing!
Good video Bill!! Your keep putting out videos like this brother your channel is gonna explode man.
I do agree with HVAC Uncensored, just remember why you started doing these videos and don’t let the popularity get to you. It seems some people get to a certain level of subscribers and it makes them change, they start sounding like the judging trolls that they experience over the life of their channel. Just keep it real and you will go far👍
That's one mighty fine looking compressor. Looks like a fire extinguisher on cam.
Replaceable core suction shell? Liquid line refrigeration ball valve to pump system down would allow easy suction line filter/ drier change out... could even install felt core to continuous catch any noncondensables. Just my two cents. Great videos
Hey Joe- you make a good point, I did suggest the ball valves to make the future replacement easier but this particular customer didnt want to spend anymore money even though I explained there may still be some contaminants in the system and this would be a sort of insurance on there investment- but they rejected all my quotes after I was done.
We all would love to do that... but someone’s gotta pay for it. Gotta keep bills low to keep customers happy
Really enjoy your videos man. Keep up the great work.
Thanks bud
29:05 I saw that before and vrote a comment that I was surprised R134a was used in these, but fortunately you caught it.
Also, something I try to do, is install my driers vertically to prevent trapping oil and refrigerant in that cylinder. Otherwise, add some oil...
Oh well damn you mashed the fins on the old evap, now you can't use it! hahaha
I used worked at trane for 8 years in lynn haven florida. Five years of it was making them coils. I used to know exactly how many fins went on every coil part number back then by heart. Used to be fun to beat up scrap coils too before the scrap bin
another day at the office. Nice work
Nice job. Maybe compare standing pressure with nitrogen on your analog, and your testo see if they read the same. Hope that helps.
Thanks for another good and educational video 👍🏻
Nice video! It look like a pain but you got it running.
You could cold wrap the drier. The cord break down on the heat of the torch. Driers with longer tails are better.
Great video, I can’t believe you’re still allowed to use R22 in the USA, in the UK we stopped using it 20 years ago!!
Even on existing equipment?
Ralph Mercuro , stopped selling R22 20 years ago, now if you need to reclaim the gas you’re not allowed to put it back into the system
Well done! Shame your Testo's failed to work properly.
That cfm test 😂 my teacher would put me through the ringer stop using your feelings and get the damn tester
I'm gonna use that- stop using your feelings and get the damn tester- lol
Great job!
There is a txv upgrade for this issue. It comes in a kit from trane
Nice job, nice job.... 🙌🙌🙌
Thanks Julio
I bet you had a bad day because you could do way job then that. I watch most your videos and you are a great tech.
Thanks, I appreciate the support
hey I like,good work congratulations
Thanks, I appreciate it
I don’t own a set but I’ve heard that your 550’s have to be re- calibrated once in a while.
Do a quiktest for acid. Nice job!
Thanks
Miss this work. Great content Billy Blaze. Remember that old Belvedere??
great job
Thanks
Is that unit a heat pump with the pistons? I recently did some work on a smaller trane rooftop. Had one unit froze up evaporator from a greasy filter. Unit number 2 kept cutting out on a pressure switch. I was surprised they don't have a delay timer on trying to restart. It's about 7 years old air conditioning and gas burner only and 3 phase, with an txv. Seemed to be getting a hot low pressure line. The indoor 3 phase fan motor is running in the right direction. I can't put guages on it. No license.
Good video I just stuff a paper towel in the pipe when I Ream down slope
I have been waiting for this video👍
@@curioushvacguy6876
I can understand why.. When you have a problem like you had with that unit, you really want to get the to the bottom of the problem.. Do you have any videos of the gunk/Vax you had in your pistons?
Love you channel
You should have wrapped the dryer
Another great video and editing. Got straight and to the point and even showed the orifices. With those testos I’ve noticed I have to open hoses to atmosphere and make sure they are zerod correctly before use every time. Btw ever tried heating orifices while hitting them with high pressure nitro to clear blockages instead of replacing evap? I’ve never done it but wonder how often it works.
Curious HVAC guy thanks. That at least confirms that usually best to just replace the coil or at least header as we always do. And it took me forever to get used to zeroing testos before connecting, after being used to my analogs for so long prior.
Curious HVAC guy I open all valves before putting away so I have to make sure to turn them on and close valves before connecting. Finally it started reminding me to zero them at that point. Then connecting to system.
Thanks for the videos really helps us newbies. Question would it have worked heating up the header while purging nitrogen through it? Because when u heated it u had refrigerant in the system if I'm not mistaken.
How many hours did u put in on that job my boss would have asked if I was marrying the job? I liked the video trilogy and u never panicked throughout. Overcame and adapted
Maybe it is just my testos but anytime I pull a vacuum through them the pressure never seems right until I zero them back out. I stopped using them for vacuum because of it.
Yeah just better and more accurate to use a seperate micron gauge
Ounce a unit has a burn out condemet recomende a new unit cas ull never get all acid out if thy want fix thn no 2arrenty on new commp.
Another great video bro..question why didn't you cut in the suction drier over a little to help with brazing? Or was that the only place it would sit right? Thanks for the view into the evap coil never have seen the inside before
Since the compressor was only a year old, did the contractor that installed it have to pay for the work that you did?
Hey Duke- to be honest I do not know, I left that for my customer to work out with that previous company, its a large retail chain so they have managers in place to deal with issues like that. Thanks for watching
Why would the manufacturer put pistons in all those lines? Are they crazy? Are they serviceable? I think I'd have a coil built instead of getting the same thing.
No different than an old cap tube coil.
All u have to do is unseat the pistons and sweat feeder tubes in. Not that difficult
I think it is cheaper to replace for new unit
In hindsight would it have been cheaper to just replace the whole unit then what you changed?
Awesome name first, lol-Yes your exactly right and I did quote to replace that unit and expressed my concerns but the customer wanted to go that route instead. Thanks for the feedback though
I had a similar problem with same trane rtu, evaporator orifices clogged and condenser coil restriction
That evaporator doesn’t look very new. There’s a lot of bent fins on it. Is this a reconditioned unit or did it get bounced around in shipping?
It's new, just got bounced around a little more then I wanted. I had to take it out of the shipping container to transport it.
Remember you have a beard go to be extra careful lol, nice job.
Exactly right- thanks
Bro you need that cap n hook 🥰
I do - lol
Did you putt the building alarm in test before you started welding on the evaporator?
I think I would send the tests back for a factor re calibration
Is phosgene gas toxic
Yes- in large amounts I believe it can kill you
It killed over 85,000 solders in WW1. Commonly known as mustard gas.
Hell yeah man
Have you tried clearing the orifices with a torch before?
Great Videos. What Kind of Saw Did You Use To Cut Evaporator?
@@curioushvacguy6876 Thanks
Gerry Rig ... Milwaukee electric hacksaw I believe. I have a 12v one that works great in tight spaces.
Did you ever find out why your testo’s were reading low?
Hey Ryan- I didnt find out an exact reason, the next few times I used them I made sure to zero them out and havent had that issue-- hopefully I dont have that issue again. Tanks for watching
Are techs required to wear long sleeves?
Hey Douro20- they do not require me to wear long sleeves, its a personal choice, but my boss always looks at me weird in the middle of summer-- but I like to keep the sun off me and I work on fryers occasionally and long sleeves are key to keeping the grease off me
bill, did you have the analog gauge high side on the liquid line tee or on the discharge line
@@curioushvacguy6876 condenser coil needs replacement on the one i worked on, something from old compressor must have broke loose and restricting flow
What the second filter dryer temporarily installed?
Outside coil restricted ?
What type of solder do you use ?
15 percent silver- not sure of the brand name though
Highside should be about 255-260, I think 🤔
#33 Thumbs Up
did you come out of school recently?
Should have changed the whole rtu
My thoughts exactly and I enjoy the content it’s fun to watch another hvacker keep up the good work
You told us about Phosgene Gas. If it was Phosgene Gas you would have been dead before you could tell us. Remember the Japanese Train Station? They took one breath and died.
Curious HVAC guy sarin gas attack.
Curious HVAC guy, yes. I was 40 in the year it happened in 1995.
One of my RACT instructors told us that if you were to see green smoke? You are already dead.
Burnt R-22 does indeed produce Phosgene Gas. A good whiff can knock you out but being outside makes it easier to work with. Otherwise HVAC techs would be dining left and right...
crack!
hahaha .. sorry friend, I'm talking about Argentina .. and here the word "crack" means genius!
Please stop calling it a piston.