First impressions of a very competitive 3D printer
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- čas přidán 9. 04. 2024
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Hey dude! Goblin's Hut here. Called by the voices in the warp to your video(thank you bros!). A dark shiny result is the telltale sign of an unmixed pot! I see a vortex mixer you showed at 11:45. Put your dirty down on that for 30 seconds OR scrape the bottom of the pot to free up the ball bearing and hand shake for 2 minutes. You WILL need to remove the DD you applied with a wet paper towel as each subsequent layer will just be darker.
All the comments here nail the solution. Glad to hear word is spreading!
If, for some reason, you're still having issues, I'll send you a new pot no matter where you purchased yours previously.
MAN THIS CHANNEL'S PATREON SURE IS TEMPTING
DAMN I REALLY SHOULD SUB TO THAT "BUY ME A COFFEE" PAGE
Regarding the Dirty Down rust. You need to VIGOROUSLY shake it. There is actually a metal ball or similar inside the bottle. If you dont hear that shaking around then you havent shaken the bottle enough. The effect is awesome once you really shake that bottle up
Yeah most of the time I find that it's it's been sitting for more than about a week. You need to take a metal rod or something and really just get in there and start churning and stirring to start it off followed by loads of shaking.
Yep, the rust/pigment really clumps at the bottom, put a stick or something in it to break up the pigment and free the ball then vortex mix the hell out of it
I actually stir DD Rust up. Every. Single. Time. Getting into the bottle with a stick is the only way I've gotten it to work.
It's glorious stuff. You just have to work the crap out of it.
Yup, totally shake, rattle and roll the dirty down and also make sure it’s relatively warm and then heat the subject, maybe a couple of minutes;utes with a hair dryer.
tossing the bottle between your legs or under your armpit for 5-10 minutes really helps get it moving.
For the dirty down, make sure you shake it a lot. Like get the metal ball inside moving and keep going for a few solid minutes. Then apply it thinly and use a wet q tip to go back over it. When it dries again it will look beautiful.
The variation in coloring comes from how fast it drys. When it drys slowly it’s darker. When it drys quickly it’s lighter. So you can also try applying some and immediately hit it with a hair dryer to get some of the lighter tones.
you can uncheck the calibrate box before pressing print on the printer. it will skip the calibration steps. the calibration is for bed traming and z offset. also change the flow rate. to get the full 600mm/s speeds you have to make sure the printer's flow rate is set to 32. they tend to default the flow rate to a low value. you can change this in the printer settings in the slicer. orca slicer can be a nice slicer to use with the K1C i use it with mine and i have close to 300hrs with mine. they have calibration tools to run to determin your flow rate, pressure advance, retraction, and temp. dialing those in for a filliment will get you string free prints when combined with higher print speeds. i dialed mine in and then increased the speed. the before increasing flowrate and speed andd after were night and day.
This channels patreon/coffee/etc is so tempting I went for it.
Patreon is 100% worth it! The community is awesome!
this is the first time i see water used as aerosol catcher. usually there's just and fitered air. This is so sweet, heavier particles will not clog the air filter so quickly.
after having a CR-6 creality have left a nasty tase in my mouth
Man, this channel's Buy Me a Coffee sure is tempting!
Oh, wait. I'm already subscribed because it's such a great value and has such a great community.
JOIN ALREADY!!
Had a k1c it self destructed within 30 days and creality support was all like pay us money to ship you replacement parts
Support this man immediately!
The startup time for the printer sounds a lot like the p1p auto levelling, that takes about 5 minutes to poke the plate all over and make some robot noises.
Issues with dirty down could be caused by:
Temperature - warmer is better, you can use a hairdryer on the piece and the bottle to get it to react better
Mixing - I know you said you did, but you probably need to mix it some more. There is an agitator inside so if you don't hear that rattling you still have goop at the bottom and might need to use something to scrape up the bottom. If you haven't used it in a while it takes a long time to mix even with a vortex mixer, despite it being a fluid paint
Water - dirty down can be reactivated with water, and you can use it to make the effect brighter/feather it out a bit.
It's a chemical reaction that takes place as it dries which gives the effect, so it might also be something with the underlying paint layers/filament that caused it to be inert. Try testing it out on a regular plastic base and see what happens
Your content convinced me to get into resin printing. Keep it up sir
Dang this channel’s patron is tempting i’m ngl 😉
Another amazing video. Love watching and learning more on your channel. Thank you for all the hard work you do.
2:03 FARTS 🤣That got me to sub!
I'm happy to see you doing painting sections in your videos again! This video felt like an awesome combination of a "look at supplies and printers" and just easy listening + fun painting/printing vid
Man this channels patreon sure is tempting!
Great way to get really varied models to print and paint.
Personally its a great space to be!
I wish My budget had the spare cash, but unfortunately My dollars only go so far.
With the dirty down rust I had the same problem and found that it was from the paint not being mixed properly. A vortex mixer is not enough you need to take some solid prong of some kind and mix the bottom in particular. You'll find that there's a layer of really thick sludge at the bottom. Hope that you have more success with it in the future after doing this.
I shall give this a try!
You're awesome dude. I'm loving your videos and loving my membership! 😁
Can't recommend FL stuff enough. Awesome person, awesome prints, never had a fail. That's the only creator I've never had a fail with.
Hi ! Thank you for your kind message ! I'm always happy to see someone that doesn't have issue with my stuff. It's something that stresses me out a lot to think that someone can't print my designs.
Oh, I don't think you will need the glue stick for adhesion here. It can, but one of the primary uses is for release. Some filaments can fuse to buildplates and the glue is a flexible barrier to let us pry it up.
^ This. It's less to make stuff stick and more to make sure filaments like TPU don't destroy your build surface.
The bamboo lab a1 mini bring discounted to $250 is the biggest no bringer purchase ever. I own a X1C which I love but the mini is special at that price
Love the use of the 🐇 food bowl. Mixing oil paints in it was a master stroke… just hope you gave it a bit of Jiff afterwards
That is not the rabbit food bowl at all lmao
Bloody love this printer
You can disable calibration in the device section in creality print
I just got some of those vallejo metal colors also, and holy hell they are so good!
Team BambuLabs ❤
i spend more time in the discord than i do with my own family
I've had a few stynylrez primers that I used that sat in my tool cabinet for a few years and never had any issues. But I do use an airbrush strainer cup.
11:00 Hard opinions on primers are rough. Where I live there is some significant issues with temperature regulation.
Stynelrez can't survive being shipped except in summer, and it always clogs.
Haven't tried Scale75.
Vallejo clogs sometimes, but usually it works great and I can get through a few refills of the cup, or do a medium clean on the airbrush between refills and it works great.
Pro-Acryl works just as well as Vallejo, I don't like it due to how fragile I find the primer to be.
Army Painter runs great through the airbrush, and has some pretty decent durability. Actually my runner up primer to Vallejo.
Just to give some perspective from a person living in the USA Pacific Northwest.
Hey Once in a Six Side,
I’ve gotten myself a Mara 3 Pro since watching your channel, and I was wondering if you would say it’s a good idea to put a 3rd party screen protector like the one from Mach5ive on?
I’m just paranoid about a resin spill. I’m wondering how likely it would be for a small bit of resin to cure and then fall into the vat without me finding it causing damage? Someone told me I should just put glad wrap over the screen but I imagine that’s silly haha
I had the total opposite experience with primers. The stynelrez was really bad but this was back when they were having "supply issues" during COVID. Vallejo has always clogged my airbrush, and I eventually switched to proacryl and haven't had any issues since.
Man patreon sure is tempting this channel
damn, i allready subscribed to patreon, so i can't say "damn, this patreon looks damn good, i'm gonna scubscribe! damn!".
Just switch to buy me a coffee.
Great video mate!
Cheers! 🍻
You should definitely check out a Bambu X1C when you get a chance, in my opinion it’s a better quality, slightly faster, and a bigger printer. But good video!
Glue is to stop the print sticking too well. PETG won't want to come off of that build surface without it.
K2 is going to awsomeee it has ams system cantwait for 31 july hopefully you get to make a rewiev so i can have a realiable source keep the good work going
The cooler K1
the dirty down relies on there being some humitity... if your in austrailia, there may not be enough in the air for it to work...
dirty down needs to be heated up, same goes for the surface u are applying it to. And your effect looks like u didnt shake it enough (dont hearing metal ball inside means heavily clogged and need of sticking inside around with a stick :)
Where did you get the oil paints and thinner? I asked at my local spotlight for odorless mineral spirits and they looked at me like i was crazy.
Eckersleys!
“Farts” 😂
That 16 minute benchy has some corners cut there, that's why the quality is quite low. Also I don't get why these Chinese companies always want to lie to you even though they know they will get caught instantly when you try out the settings they suggested and it's still not 16 minutes. Something about their culture is different, where it's acceptable to lie.
Yes like the supplied benchy of the bambu X1-C. This printer is supposed to be 10 times faster than my previous printer and I never succeeded to print as fast. about 4 times faster is the best I get.
Shoulda used the mixer to shake up the dirty down
should of tried the benchy with the included creality hyper PLA. Mine came out much better than the one you did with eSun @600mm
Is this the old version? The new version has the screen on the top if I'm not mistaken and is called k2?
cant really buy the k2 yet
Honestly that print quality is not good. I know it's printing fast but those layer lines are super visable and obvious. I'd suspect it's either an extrusion issue causing over or under extrusion, which would make the lines thicker or thinner. Or it could be Z banding from the bed moving in the X and Y directions from the lead screws not being straight.
Tuning in the filament profile might help as well.
It's 4:30 a.m. I can't do this. I'm not strong enough.
I did it. I bought one.
printing and painting miniatures with FDM printer is difficult. Compare to resin printer, FDM got way more failures, got horroble layer lines, took way longer hrs.
Isn’t this old already? They are talking about a k2 line with the k2 plus with their ams
That dirty downs isn’t mixed properly. You probably need to stir it with a cocktail stick
realistically you're never gonna reach the full 600mm/s on complex prints like that without a loss in quality. 300mm/s is still fast compared to 50mm/s i was used to on an anycubic vyper.
If you want to push it faster then you need to make sure the max volumetric flow rate can handle it.
Weird I bought this a few days ago and it did the benchy 17 mins out the box
HANDS!🎉
I just want to say creality slicer isn't that good. But, once you spend 5 hours learning about it. You can than get that benchy to 16 minutes.
Also, you can use tree supports if you turn on advance in the setting to switch it (I have a k1)
tempting, but not sure 😁
Lol definitely not in competition.
Man this channels Patreon sure is tempting!
Bunnies! :]
I don’t need another printer, but the A1 Mini is $250 right now.
the build plate is sooo tiny
i mean for $560USD its not terrible
Another shots fired at Bambulab and misfire again. Task failed succesfully - something that Creality does best :). And the out of the box print quality... well yeah, think I'll pass and save up for Bambulab.
Many good points in these comments. Dirty down issues seem to have been addressed. The oatreon surely is appealing. It's a pathway to many new prints, some of them considered to be... unnatural. Have you ever heard the tale of Darth Bambulab, the expensive? I'd thought not. It's a Creality tale...
😂
If Bambu doesn't come out with a decently priced larger printer ill probably end up buying the K1 Max/k1C to help eith larger projects. Looks like the k1c fixed a lot of issues i had with the first version
If the K1C is marlin based you should be able to speed up the bed levelling by switching it to UBL from ABL.
I hate fanboyism but honestly bambu is just miles ahead of everyone on fdm market right now.
Creality seems to be in an absolute disarray trying to shit out cheap copycats and prusa is selling over a decade old platform with upgraded firmware and extruder with insane prices at this rate they will soon become the apple of 3d printers.
And that shot is going to miss.
meh my a1 bambulabs doesnt string and doesnt need ANY glue ever and i geta METAL plate ahahahaha creality gave you a terrible old style bed yikes.
Is Bambu the Apple of FDM for fanboys?
Speed is if you dont care about quality , No printer prints at 600mm/s if you want nice models. Its like a sports car, It may can go 200mph but you dont drive that all the time and in traffic, with turns and stop lights and potholes.
Like 108.
Learn how to twick FDM settings or just stick to your rasin prints
Hi, Noticed you are more of a RESIN printer for extreme detail. A while back around Prusa time people gave up on making more detailed FDM printers because Resin came along. The attitude was FDM is SH*t for detail so do Resin. Well, some of us Got better results then most with FDM kind of like what you do with your channel in whole. This made FDM printer owners LAZY and unable to get great Prints because they believed that FDM had topped out. Those Prints you made on the K1C are terrible, not terrible but the old Prusa can do better. You could see from a distance, and you shot from a distance all the lines and uneven layers, terriblle in the curves that were not in the files you showed. Do you have a Bambu? I love your channel but maybe you think FDM can only go so far, If so, you would be deeply mistaken . FDM can rival Resin, there is a guy on here, YT, that is better at getting detail with FDM then every one on YT and he gets 40 views.... Clean as crap from FDM. People just want to plug and play , the art has changed to technical ability because everything is copyable . Love your channel but this and the Uniformation Vid kinda not your style. Kind of, I want to build a print farm and sell on Etsy vibe. Like most the other tubers....dont do it!!! Be real, you are the one thing that can not be COPIED !!
Meh
Biased, paid-for, generic-brand Bambu printer review
Huh? Paid for by who?
Paid for by all the epic supporters on Patreon, Buymeacoffee and CZcams! 🥳🍻🤘
Why not dig your K1 out instead of “I’m too busy” yada etc - I found no value in your holier than thou approach. - have a nice day - seriously