The Nova3D Whale 3 Ultra is a UX nightmare
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- čas přidán 26. 02. 2024
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Many of you have asked about the waterfall airbrush thingo in the background during this one. I've deliberately left it out of the description because I have literally only just started testing it out, and I would like to refrain from sharing affiliate links for airbrushing supplies that I haven't thoroughly vetted yet. However, for those curious to know: it's the Gaahleri Waterfall Spray Booth. My first impressions are.. it's big and takes up a lot of room, the waterfall is hard to get working consistently, and it needs a lot of water making it heavy and difficult to move around. So you will absolutely need a dedicated space for it. For me who has built a studio where everything is constantly getting moved around to maximize the usefulness of a small space, its not really the greatest bit of kit. It does look impressive on camera though.. That's for sure.
The airbrush itself is the Gaahleri GHAD-68 Trigger style airbrush and I have included an affiliate link for that in the video description as I've been using it for months and months now (you can see it in just about every video), and it's proven itself to me as an excellent low-fuss airbrush, that's comfortable to use for long sessions.
I cannot describe the laughter I had when the dongle fell apart in the machine. Like, the expired cherry on top of the stale cupcake.
The touch screen not working as you try to start your final vat cleaning is just chef's kiss.
The reveal of the Drow cloak @12:25 made me involuntarily gasp. That is stunning!
Incredible job with the painting!
Yknow I thought you were harsh on the printer at first with complaining about the assembly required.
But after seeing the bed levelling issues?
Well deserved.
Shit / 10
Another great video! Also, thank you very much for the kind shout out during your review of the pieces.
After having rewatched this, I’m really struck at how epic a failure that leveling mechanism design was. The software is fixable via updates. But that mechanical design? That’s back to the drawing board and changing the whole production process. Fail. It’s like they completely ignored what users need. Your harsh words about this are well deserved.
Aaaaaay, kinda cool to see my piece out there for all to see. Fantastic jobs by everyone else as well, cant wait for next months print and paint. Its a convenient way to force myself out of my comfort zone and try things i normally wouldnt
WOAH a Waterfall Spray Booth?! Is that new??! That looks awesome
yes, can't believe its not listed in the desc, what is that amazing thing?
I perked up for that too! Nice bit of kit!
I left it out of the description because I've literally only just started testing it out and my first impressions are.. meh. Check out the pinned comment to this video, I wrote a little more info there about it.
Yes, the elites from halo was the intention. I really wanted to throw some metallic colors on there but I didn't get a compression glove in until the 25th and my right hand was funkedd up
How could they screw up the plate levelling. Thats an issue thats been prefected years ago.
Really appreciate your reviews. They’re way more laid back and real than other over scripted videos from other reviewers.
"i had hope, i had hope" you gotta remember, Hope is the first step on the road to disappointment
Man this is a great video and super useful information. I'm sorry it's been so frustrating but glad you're showcasing it for all of us would-be buyers. Cheers!
I'm really impressed by DM Stash minis so will definitely be looking into them. I'd say for the donkeys, it would be nice of you to support them for your patrons and the creator as a way to return the favour (if it wouldn't take you too long).
I just love the stuff by DM Stash and also love they are an Aussie
Yes needed too resupport the Donkey... But i love him.
Did that absolute lunatic just slapchop 75mm scale models?
He can't keep getting away with it!
Needing continous high temps for resin is also not just about failures, you get less elongation on the Z axis (very significant for those of us who need more dimensionally accurate prints) if the temperature remains on the sweet spot, lower temps make the elongation so much worse
No, letting the resin wander up and down in temp is absurd when you already have a heater, because the photopolymer resin catalyzes differently at different temps, and flows differently. So you end up with unstable levels of curing on the resin as it cools down, where the higher you get the less cured things are. If you've got a bloody heater, keep it engaged to maintain the temp the entire print. The original version of the GKTwo that uniformation basically replaced had issues where they had Z banding from unstable temp control when they were heating the enclosure like that thing is.
I really like your attitude. Great videos. From Boston, USA.
The levelling adjustment is similar to collimating reflector telescopes where this has to be done independently for 2 mirrors several feet apart and can be a PITA until used to it. For those there are only 3 points to adjust which is worse, but there are handy optical assistance devices so that you can see the absolute progress without some subjective paper test which generally makes it easier to do
What the hell is that levelling system? 🙃
My saturn 2 is dying of laughter.
Except no,
because it cant die.
Because those bolts are solid as a rock and the easiest to level 😂
Heater seems like a big L. Most people probably put their resin printers in their garage because the fumes (which is a colder climate). Also, why not just put a warning on the screen and still allow you to do it?
You are one of my favorite creator. When I watch a review on a printer from you. I know you aren't blowing smoke. You're being 100%
I have this printer, I can safely say it is the worst printer I've ever used. That "pre-levelled" function you liked... mine wasn't. It tried to print 10cm above the vat at first. Believe me, when you do have to level this thing it is a nightmare and took many attempts to get it right. Your summary was spot on!
It took me 3 months to get a print that worked, wasted multiple bottles of resin.. I would have the weirdest fails, including perfect cubes just missing from the centre of models, or large sections of the print bed not printing, but in the middle... The only prints I ever got to work were printed around the outside of the bed.
After I finally got several reliable prints, the screen protector melted, turned sharp, and cut into the vat, pouring resin into the screen. The whole thing needs major repairs now and it is not going to be worth the money doing that
TL;DR: the bad issue he's referring to is that the bed leveling is the big problem.
And I want to add, it is highly probable that it's NOT the bed leveling, but bad design with the Vat and the LCD screen; to be more specific, the GAP between the FEP and the screen is too wide.
Dennys Wang, an insanely good resin printer user, had this exact same issue and initially thought it was the bed leveling as well. However, he's really good at bed leveling and potentially ruled that out after he did his leveling. He speculate it's the gap: czcams.com/video/O2gOi48YF54/video.html
Sure it might have an added design flaw of having too large a gap, but doesn't excuse the farce of that leveling system.
@kevnewman89
We are not in disagreement here and we both agree on the exact same things.
The design is shit, I agree. And the point I was trying to make, was specifically about the print failure, which seemed the main reason why people hate this printer. And the print failure specifically, is most likely caused by the gap.
Great vid as per usual everything you put together is top notch, even something as simple as putting Patreons in alphabetical order! well thought out content and have learnt something new everytime I watch these!
That paint job is 🔥. Defo stealing that adding patterns to large areas thing. Inspired!
Wow i realize that ive never seen someone paint a Black person before. I'm glad you did!
Great review! Keep up the good work!
Personal trick I use for the gold from Vallejo if I want a warmer one, mix it with some brownish ink, speed paint or similar or mix a little copper with in
Maintaining temp is less important because resin curing is exothermic. Every layer cured is putting heat into the surrounding resin. In many climates if you prewarm the resin, printing, by itself, will keep the resin warm enough to avoid problems. BUT if your area is really cold, or the parts you're printing are very small, so that you're not curing much resin, and therefore not generating much heat, you could still have problems. So it would be nice if there was a setting you could change regarding the heater.
After seeing that waterfall spray booth I think it's time, we need a desk set up tour, what you actually daily drive for cleaning, curing, and apparently keeping airbrush spray from walls
Amazing video, i am learning so much from you!
Patience and resolve got TPKed! ;)
I would bend that kindge in the back, the stopper stopping it from going back any further so it can go back farther....
With regard to the Keep Making video on resin fumes, a friend sent it to me a few weeks ago. While many very good points are raised, the testing performed was not useful. The filter he designed never had any chance of success, even a 100% effective filter that never allows a single offensive molecule past would have failed the way he designed it. But before we get into that I want to say that I agree with his conclusions (you need to ventilate the space, scrubbing the fumes from an entire room isn't going to happen), just not his methodology.
Anyway, the issue is one of flow rate. You are trying to filter the air in a confined space. The fan is capable of moving a certain amount of air per unit time, usually expressed in CFM (cubic feet per minute). Let's say you are in a room that's 300 cubic feet (roughly a two meter cube). You have a fan that moves 100 CFM of air. If that fan is spinning in free space, it should take three minutes to ingest an amount of air equal to the volume of the room. But now let's stick an obstruction on the front of it that reduces our airflow by 50%. Now we need six minutes to cycle the air.
The restriction on the filter widget is definitely stopping a hell of a lot more than 50% of the airflow. That is a very dense brick of carbon. And in a misguided attempt to improve the performance, Keep Making used the _entire_ block of foam, blocking even more airflow. This will have exactly the opposite effect, barely improving the filtration of the air that passes through the filter while simultaneously reducing the flow through the filter by an enormous amount. I would be unsurprised if airflow were down by something like 95% or more. Think about how people who build custom liquid cooling loops for their PC tend to use special high static pressure fans to deal with the restriction of the radiator, which is _WAY_ less restrictive than that block of carbon.
So let's say airflow is down to 5 CFM. If we're at 300 cubic feet of space to filter, that means we only need 60 minutes to do the filtration, right? Nope! Because the air that's been filtered is ejected into the same room as the contaminated air, you will see a logarithmic decline in the level of contamination, not linear. And if there's a source of contaminated air that's producing contamination faster than your dinky filter can filter it, you will _never_ see a reduction. And this is why I agree with the conclusion, not because filtration doesn't work but because you need a hugely oversized filter to achieve useful performance. The filter that could handle an entire room would be the size of a mini-fridge and would draw at least an order of magnitude more power than the filter in that video.
But wait! Does that mean the filters inside your printer are useless? Not really. The same principle that makes it impossible to effectively filter a large room with a small filter makes it easy to filter the small chamber. You've got what, one cubic foot of space to filter? A small fan can easily handle that (especially with an appropriately sized filter that won't drop airflow to nothing), but only if you give it a while to clean up the air before you open the enclosure. And you're still going to have nasties escaping the enclosure, it'll just be much lower than without filtration.
In short: filtration is good, but not good enough on its own. Somebody failing to build a filter doesn't mean filters are worthless, it just means they failed to build a filter.
Oh it was a good decision to wait with the Uniformation GKTwo. :D
Amazing Video! you are a very good painter too, love those paintings too! cheers
I'll be honest, it did not occur to me to do wet blending with speedpaints, I'll have to experiment with it. Thanks for the idea, and for informative video!
Quality of life features, user experience, build quality, and build volume are the deciding factors these days.
How has every manufacturer not copied the AnyCubic multiple exposures for calibrating?
How do you screw up a bed leveling mechanism that badly? There are multiple designs out there that work great but these guys looked at them all and decided to donit worse. Prototyping it one time and teying to level it would have shown how awful it was
looking forward to next months P&P! hope my new LCD shows up haha
Resin printing is exotermic process, which means resin will heat itself when curing. So in a way it can be argued that heating is only needed at the start of the print, to make sure that resin in the vat is warm initially. Still, if they won't provide temperature control during whole print, why did they even bother with the heater, we can just pre-heat resin in the bottle (I do it that way anyway).
yeah, i have a heat pad the bottle sit on, so their contents are 25C from the outset
OH! also a shameless plug for a local to me 3d printer resin company in IL.
3d Resin solutions. They have some fantastic stuff. The MUD($15/KG) is great and the only downside is it's not super fast 8k resin.
There's a way easier way to level on all printers that works every time. Uncle Jesse or whatever that dudes channel name is did a video on it. Basically, get a small test print queued up. Have the vat in, full or empty is fine, but empty is probably better, then unscrew the tightening bolts that keep the plate from moving, so it can move freely, then start the print and after it moves down and starts the first layer exposure, unplug the printer. The arm will stay at this first spot, pressed to the bottom. Tighten the bolts to secure the print bed. Now turn it on and set the current position as the new home. Voila, done and done.
That's like leveling with vat inside, which is well known method, with extra steps. Every printer has a home position and manual z movement, that's all you need, lower loose build plate into the vat until it's not wobbling, tighten it up, rise by layer height and set new home position. That's ideal procedure, which is a bit hard when you have 6, from the look of it, separate screws responsibble for leveling, with every one of them potentially tilting that big build plate out of position. I wonder why use paper sheet method at all, what was wrong with leveling with vat inside in this case?
Wow, i thought the GKtwo leveling was a pain.. and dont get me wrong it definitely was a pain..but this just looks insane.
My first resin 3D printer was a Nova 3D printer and I retired it because I could never get it leveled more then like twice.
With regards to the Elegoo being 'knocked out' of level unless you tighten the bolts enough, or even for any printer's method of locking the level..... would threadlock be a viable option?
What is that waterfall thing at your painting station?
I got a Saturn 3 ultra and think its awesome, but I wish I waited and got a GK2.
If $$is less of an issue, then just get the printer with the heater to make it bulletproof.
The curing reaction of UV resins is exothermic, meaning that stored chemical energy is released as heat and warms the surroundings. The operation of the LCD and UV lights also produces heat. In most cases once the print is underway, and particularly if you use a large portion of the build plate it should keep everything warm enough. That said, I'm saying this as a fellow Australian and banana bender, so I don't have any more practical experience of printing in cold weather than you do.
i'm in NZ. i heat my resins, and have a full thermal break around my print area, with a thermal blanket that goes into place ne hte print it started to keep it all warm.
what is that waterfilm behind the Spraybooth?
IDK about the heater thing. I had issues when the temperature was too low even though the part adheared to the bed.
What is that awesome waterfall thing you have there when you were airbrushing?
All their printers seem to be a pain to level. I bought their elfin2 a while back on sale and it also comes leveled from the factory. I tried leveling it myself before and it took me so long to get it right.
Is that a water Wall in your spraying booth??
Hey, at 10.32 you are showing an image preview of the donkey files in explorer, I was wondering how you can do that since that would immensely help identifying the stl i need without opening it beforehand. Thanks!
One of the slicers does that. Don't remember which one, but it adds previews to file explorer
3d viewer or builder, I forget which one does the thing for me
3d builder@@RenMomoDotPog
3d builder, free from microsoft store will do that. It is also recommended for fixing files for printing and for some easy digital kitbashing.
Hey, I could use a little help navigating my subscription perks. I can't seem to get on discord and I'm not sure where or how to get the files for the month.
Hey, thanks for the sub! You should have access to some different links on the member perks tab. I think it's easier accessed on a desktop? Not sure about the mobile experience. There should be a discord invite url and two Google drive URLs (one for welcome pack and another for Feb files).
I'm not sure I can explain it better without subscribing to myself with another CZcams account to learn for myself exactly what the end user YT member experience is like 😅
@@OnceinaSixSide so it says that the discord link is expired
@@michaels8940Really sorry about this, I dunno why but Discord randomly resets the links even though I specify it never expires :s
I've submitted the new link to CZcams but it may take up to 24 hours to show up.
@@OnceinaSixSide thank you
put a drop of the copper in with the gold and it makes a much nicer tone IMO
What type of levelling system do you use? This printer with the paper levelling looks similar to how many printers are levelled so not sure why you dislike it so much
Are you sure I'm thinking my anycubic 2 neo is the worst, so many adhesion fails just before the end of the print or halfway
It is an fdm so don't expect the earth but fail after fail is making me think I'm doing something seriously wrong or if it's down to the printer
What is your paint booth? holy shit I need it.
Can you tell me what spray booth u are using ?
See pinned comment
As someone that still uses an Ender 3v2...yeah I had to recently relevel and it's taken hours to dial it back correctly! Why this time I'm not sure but fuck has it been annoying. Doing this on the fly is awesome...but having to do this with a vat...HELL NO! Great looking models though
what kind of air filter is that?! @11:34
I was curious aswell and looked it up. Its called a waterfall spray booth.
Where can i get the STL for the mini at 2:36?
www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-human-survivor-militia-296058
@@OnceinaSixSideAwesome Thanks!
Dude that leveling reminds me of my first printer which was a creality ld 002h (🤔 think that was its nomenclature) it was trash.
Removing the build plate should not force you relevel everytime. Thats just piss poor design and they should be ashamed.
Excuse me, but what is that thing you are airbrushing against? The waterwall or whatever it actually is? o.O
professional spray booth. car painters use that, it is meant to catch overspray particles and the water is then filtered from this. filter change is not very appetizing and it increases air humidity by a lot if you don't have an exterior outlet for the air stream.
@@kensaiix Thanks. That's pretty coolio.
Please, please, please if you are going to talk about resin safety find and read the MSDS for the resin. So often the Internet's view of risks with resin are just wrong. (Your Sunlu resin MSDS is a wacky crooked scan of a physical document.)
Good morning Australia?
ehhh.... 2:39 why is there a mold line on that guys leg?
If you haven't seen that video these minis are a mix of plastic and prints. If you ignore the mold lines I was lazy to clean, can you tell which parts are which? 😂
czcams.com/video/xSzZPm-91w4/video.html
@@OnceinaSixSide Aha, i understand
Is there any OTHER way to support your channel?
I am from Russia and all of the services are unavailable 😢
Really appreciate you trying, but if you can't it's ok - your viewership is support enough 🥹
The only thing I can think of is my cults3d store, maybe?
cults3d.com/en/users/Once/3d-models
shipping fees usually go by weight . just saying .
noice
First 😤😤😤
Whoa, another great video where the host is disappointed because his limited technical skills and knowledge interfere with him using a superior product.
Sure, _Nova3D is not one of those companies who does anything other than sending a good printer for review to people who seem like they might show it well in their work_, rather than spending much more money (or any) on sponsored videos and other marketing schemes instead of R&D.
The only thing wrong with the paralleling system on this printer (aka "tramming"/"levelling") is not knowing how it works, and no proper, simple guide from Nova3D in English about this. Mechanically, in theory and practice, this is one of the best systems on any consumer printer, without gimmicky springs, ball-joints, side-screws with bad washers, etc. Once this set, and it's capable of far, far more precise parallel than any other consumer printer except maybe a certain Biqu printer with 3-point ratcheting micrometer levelling which is otherwise crappy, and will hold that parallel almost indefinitely.
Bottom line, regarding this issue in the review - six plastic-coated standard playing cards, a proper sized hex screwdriver and not suffering some kind of Parkinsonian affliction will do the trick and get your parallel to within 2 microns (0.02mm) across the entire surface of the build plate, more or less permanently.
Maybe there are other things wrong with this printer, maybe not, but one thing for sure not wrong with it is the levelling system; even the host finally got it more or less right and suddenly closes with these gems - "This printer makes some good prints but it took me a while to get it levelled and nobody helped me, and even worse, the prints are really nice with the free resin I got which costs too much, and this resin smells real bad, other resin don't smell so bad", 🤣
I think you misunderstood the conclusion and may be a bit out of touch with mass market consumer requirements for resin 3D printers. I never got this printer level again and printing successfully, despite my best efforts, and I stand by what I said; this printer is great when it works, but the leveling system is by far the worst I've ever encountered. Leveling should be fast and simple.
@@OnceinaSixSide I think you misunderstood my comment, which is fine, thanks for letting me know, so I can clarify.
There could be something wrong with the 14K Whale3 printers (not just the Ultra). For example, Dennys Wang did a thorough video on it, and found that the resin vat was sitting wrongly and Nova3D acknowledged it and claimed they will fix the problem.
But factually, the "levelling system" Nova3D uses is NOT the worst, it's inherently among the best systems available on consumer 3D resin printers currently, the only technically/mechanically better system would be a three-point top-down system that uses something like ratcheting micrometers for precise adjustment (look up the Biqu Pixel L printer to see what I mean).
The fact that you don't know how it works and how to simply adjust it for great results that are nearly permanent and Nova3D only has a weird, unclear video on this topic is a shame, but has nothing to do with if the system is good or not.
The fact that almost every other consumer 3D printer at any cost has clear, easy, fast and well explained and demonstrated alleged levelling mechanisms doesn't change the fact that nearly all of them are horrible and don't work much, if at all, or for long, for their purpose, which is actual paralleling.
Your style is very approachable, you speak clearly and present very well, the production quality of your videos is excellent.
It would be better if you gained a bit more broad knowledge relevant to what you're doing in these videos (evaluating consumer-grade 3D resin printers), beyond your mastery of attaching your cool and useful custom-made ventilation solution and resin printing other people's nice figurines with stinkier or less-stinky brittle or tougher resins.
If you are interested, I'll send you a quick tutorial on how to effectively and precisely "level" the build plate on the Nova3D printers with playing cards and a good hex screwdriver.
Clickbait, purposefully delaying the reveal of the issue. Your audience is not children, grow up.
Is the childish comment from the user with a child's face for a profile picture supposed to reinforce your point, or is that just some unfortunate irony for you? 😂
i mean, he has a point. Having the 'issue' time tagged so we can skip to it would be nice, but I like listening to you waffle on, so its not a biggie.@@OnceinaSixSide
Fair, yeah I'll keep that in mind for next time something like this comes up in the script writing. For me I'm really just focused on how do I make this video an interesting journey, it's story telling. But I can understand the desire for utilitarian facts and data, but imo that's what blogs and articles are for, not YT videos.@@flowinsounds
that's how I see your channel too. Its narrative. @@OnceinaSixSide
You sound very tinny today