The Truth About Miniature Youtubers...
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- čas přidán 26. 02. 2024
- Thanks to HelloFresh for sponsoring today's video. Go to strms.net/hellofresh_trovarion, use my code TROVMINIFREE, and receive one free breakfast item per box while subscription is active.
What was supposed to be an "under 1 hour" paintjob turned into a bit of a nightmare...
Some music by Karl Casey @WhiteBatAudio go check it out, it's amazing!
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This channel is about painting miniatures for your warhammer, infinity, warmachine & d&d games, as well as age of sigmar and warhammer 40k. space marines, space wolves, sisters of battle, stormcast eternals, beastclaw raiders, mawtribes, cities of sigmar, chaos space marines. Also painting different scale models and miniature busts! How to paint NMM. How to paint warhammer, how to paint D&D figures. - Jak na to + styl
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Thanks to HelloFresh for sponsoring today's video. Go to strms.net/hellofresh_trovarion, use my code TROVMINIFREE, and receive one free breakfast item per box while subscription is active.
I have tried Hello Fresh on 2 occasions.
They started out fine but after a couple of weeks, some ingredients were missing from each box. When I contacted them, they apologised and refunded some money. However, this meant that I was unable to make some of the dishes I ordered without having to go to the shop to buy what was missing (one of the reasons I chose Hello Fresh).
Last year (after a gap of a couple of years) I tried again, thinking that things had improved. They hadn't. The same thing started to happen again.
I will not be trying for a third time.
It's a comfort to know that hazard stripes can be frustrating for even pro-painters.
I see so many people not even bother with the stripes and just paint their Iron Warriors all yellow
@@v02max75 that's some Rogal Dorn trickery
I find them harder on larger models, but when doing very small ones on battletech models, it's very easy. smaller scale is also much more forgiving.
Coming from gunpla, I always just use masking for stripes. Always. Man was never meant to paint straight lines and perfect circles
They should sell shoulder pads with raised stripes parts...
My friend, Tamiya has a masking tape for curves that works like magic. I save my standard paper tape for flat surfaces now. The 2mm should be a goodnsize for stripes like that in future
Tamiya worked for me as well, I added strips as spacers like you did and it was easy
I was coming here in the comments, from the automotive world, to say that. Saw this comment.
Pinstriping masking tape, comes thin (even 1mm). And if you buy the right kind, it's even highly flexible for TIGHT curves. Yes, Tamiya is a brand that makes those tapes, as the above comments wrote. 87206
🤷♂ IDK, you can ignore my 2 cents since I've never painted a mini, and only watched 3 (at most) videos about it.
I have the tamiya stuff, its frankly still a nightmare :(
So good you painted it twice
And renamed the video 3 times.
I sub to hundreds of painting channels but I have to say, your skill and the modesty you show when you make mistakes to help others learn is why I never miss a video
Adding the blue contrast to the silver metal is such a genius idea! I've never seen anyone shade silver like that before.
Really? I thought it was common
Pretty simple color solution
Looks to me like that mini set out to teach you the true meaning of "Iron Within, Iron Without." 🤣
A video with a problem, despair, perseverance in front of adversity, and finally victory - this actually made it for a more entertaining video and a bigger learning experience than if everything had gone as planned.
Even someone as experienced and talented as Trovarion can experience struggles and then persevere, that is an inspiration for us mere mortal pigment pushers.
It really helps to see pros like you hit surprise snags or to even have an area that is "out of your comfort zone" - i sill dont exactly make accidental masterpieces like this, but i certainly take comfort knowing I'm not entirely alone.
I am stealing your method for coloring the metals like you did. Great idea.
Go for it!
Quick tip: Try using Tamiya xf-paints for chipping. They chip much better and finer than acrylics like vallejo, gw etc. Vinyl paints dont chip very precise, they come off like big chunky bits which is frustrating.
great tip, also for airbrushing that silver, iron color, the Tamiya LP paints are great, if smelly
The metallics looked fantastic
I’d love necrons painted like that
But having said that, your necron video is probably my favourite necron paint job
it would actually be cool to combine the techniques somehow!
@@trovarion I’m an absolute novice at miniature painting. But maybe the technique used on the iron warrior to paint the more mechanical parts of a necron, with the carapace and weapon of the necron being painted in the style you used for the Necron Destroyer. Give some differentiation between the hardened armour and weapon, and the more intricate mechanical parts like joints and the spine.
To this day, I still thinking about the gem effects on that one Destroyer. Just mind-boggling to me. 😮
Best ad read with supporting footage I've seen. The sandwich assembly was stellar!
Also, absolutely love Iron Warriors. This turned out fantastic.
Hello sir! I am new to figure painting and warhammer (I actually painted a few figures two years ago and gave up but now I'm back to it hopefully will build an army and play some games) I'm finding your videos very interesting and helpful, I am usually quiet in the comments section. But because I am a scale modeller (also running a youtube channel) with some experience with various paints and techniques I think I could share some advice. Next time when masking stripes try to use a very thin tamiya masking tape, it's easier to keep curves. Tamiya also has a white masking tape for curves, you can test that one but it doesn't have a strong grip on the model. As for chipping, am not a fan of chipping the vinyl acrylic paints like vallejo as it chips with quite large and out of scale flakes, and it's hard to control. The better way to do this is to spray lacquer based paint like SMS, MRP, Hataka (orange series) or Mr.hobby C series for example. The chipping will take more time as they don't come off as easy as acrylics but you have way more control and can do really tiny chips. You can make this process a bit quicker by sanding the spots first with some high grit tamiya sanding sponges first. You can also try to do chipping with some tamiya or mr hobby H series acrylic paints. They are different from vinyl acrylics and chip differently too. so this is a little bit from me. Love your videos, and thanks for all the help I got from them!
7:09 I still have PTSD from trying to paint Bad Moon Yellow in the late 90's. The Horror! The Horror!
Flexible masking tape would likely help a lot here. Got mine from an RC car shop as it is intended to mask curved lines for racing stripes but it works just as well on minis.
Scale model builder here. What you want to do is a) get flexible masking tape and b) put stripes next to each other to ensure you always have the same distance between stripes. Then you just remove the "in between" stripes that will then reveal the area, that will be spray painted. If you are stingy with tape, you can always just put down a strip, put the "place holder" strip down, put down the next strip, peel of the place holder and put it next to the new tape...rinse repeat.
definitely like this type of videos where you show EVERY process even the one that doesnt work. its an extra lesson for you and us
Thanks for walking us through the experience 🙏
hey, I saw this video this morning!.. but who will believe me...
I do :)
@@trovarion haha, that's nice from your side :)
You have an older Custodes video. Would you ever revisit them with your current grim dark paint style? Would love to see what you’d come up with there! Cheers!
@trovarion What kind (brand) of contrast did you use that reactivates when it gets in contact with water?
Here is a small tip for you.... When painting straight lines over a curved surface you need to use thin strips of 1mm Tamiya masking tape this allows you to manipulate the line around the curved surface
Fantastic result - I think this is my favourite in this series
Trovarian, you know what you do if you’re having trouble with a technique on a mini (ahem, hazard stripes)? CZcams it, duh😂 that’s how I found YOUR channel. I would’ve thought that would have been a CZcamsr’s first instinct to do lol anyway pretty cool paint job and I love your grim dark series. They are masterpieces🤌🏽
Attach the masking tape together at at least one end before applying it to the surface. That might help keep the spacing consistent.
i know about that and that works on straight surfaces or ven large cylinders. but that's not really true on the curved AND tapered shoulderguards.
@@trovarion Just a thought.
Tamiya and Vallejo both make masking tape for curves. They are white tape that bend with minimal deformation to be able to mask off nonplaner surfaces.
You fought through defeat and endured. Iron Within, Iron Without!
Thanks for the video! I was interested in the metallic approach to your grimdark style and this video did not disappoint. I hadn't considered the contrast of dull to shiny and I must say, WOW. I really like the result. Thank you for your talent.
I started painting minis this year and my favorite legion to pant has been Iron Warriors. I'm going to give some of the methods in this video a try
Welp, this video appeared on my feed and I thought it was a Squidmar video.
Well played sir, well played.
apparently you gotta be squidmar to make people click videos
The armor looks fantastic after dulling it down then stippling silver back over it.
hey @trovarion, silly question, I'm painting titans for Legio Ignatum (yellow and red panels with black trim) should I use a blue for the initial shading of the metals or it's better to use a color that matches better the panels?
you've done well here! hazard stripes are a pain in the back to do no matter the scale. I had trouble doing them at cosplay scale and at cosplay scale. even with painters masking tape the striping still was a pain with the paint finding gaps in the paint
Definitely going to be looking into adding color depth to my metallics now. Thank you. Great vid as always
That steel is absolutely brilliant!
I just got done using chipping medium and it was a learning curve for me. I had to use metal tools then go back and repair where the tools went too deep.
I painted scaly armor on my Alpha Legion army, so I know your pain. Doesn't help that my first Rewards of Treachery Unit were Night Lords Night Raptors.... that got damned lightning took me forever.
Inspired by the crazy advice that adding a tiny bit of black helps white to cover better (technically it's now grey, but very very pale) I tried adding a tiny bit of red to my yellow and I'm sure that helped too. And I preferred the colour, it was warmer and deeper. I have no airbrush, so even easy coverage with a brush matters.
(This dude looks awesome BTW!)
Beautiful!
Should have added some of that red dust pigment at the intake of the jetpack because that's where a lot of dust would be sucked in
If I've learnt one thing about a good grimdark scheme, it's all about the surface finish variation.
The result speaks for itself, I love it.
I like using masking fluid when doing the hazards strips. Functions like masking tape to cover surfaces but is painted on.
Foind it working so well when painting blades on ork boys and on a n Ambot for Necromunda.
getting a strange sense of de-ja-vu ;)
haha, exactly the same for me
youtube simply wanted to supress my iron brothers!
@@trovarion *angry heretic noises*
@@trovarion well, this is very thematic for the video... when the difficulties with painting do not end with the painting itself
This is perfect for TMM. Picked up some inks and went to town on some space dwarves. Thanks for the neat trick.
Awesome work 😊
Fantastic video! Getting hazard stripes looking right on curved surfaces is the never-ending struggle of the Iron Warriors fan!
Iron Warriors are a fun army to paint, they are one of my favourites to work on. They have a low skill floor, but a high ceiling - you can really push it with weathering and of course the dreaded stripes! I tried mixing up some of my units with a quartered black and metal scheme, so there's lots you can do with them.
Definitely adapting this for my iron snakes phobos kill team!
Great video and you should Tamiya masking tape for curves in your tool box, I am so glad I did.
with the black stripes, you actually wanna free hand it, i use a pencil to line it where they need to be first and then just go back and forth with yellow and black till it looks good, that's how you get it all the across the cylinder, the tape is just a tool for straight surfaces.
and seeing they are in a sense chaos marines, it never has to be too perfect of a line, so free handing it isn't that much of a problem as long as it looks straight.
True
I LOVE the steel. What was the blue Contrast that you used?
please tell me what the black goo was you used to fill in the model when you were air brushing it white/yellow!
masking putty
Holy hell, that end result is absolutely gorgeous. Everything tied together like crazy, and the base and pigment powder just capped it all off. 🤌🏼🤌🏼🤌🏼🤌🏼🤌🏼
Wow! This is the one I've been waiting for! So good. Thanks.
What chipping medium do you use?
Thanks alot for your videos, I find them very motivating to get myself up and paint. I apreciate that you also share your negative thoughts and outcomes about a project, that motivates and also inspires me even more to try out some ideas and pushing away my negativity before i have even started ❤. Grey Knights would be cool to see from you ! Looking forward to your next video. All the best!
I just learned last week that Tamiya has white flexible masking tape. Maybe that would cover a curve just a little better than the more rigid paper masking tape? Just a thought.
You can get flexible masking tape which works on things like planes etc
You overcame the challenge. Good for you. I probably wouldn't have. Frustration freezes projects for me.
painting over hues or shades massively increases coverage.
you can get very good coverage in yellow if you paint it over a yellow/white mix or in red if you paint it on top of a red/white mix etc.
I think it's kinda funny that there's hazard stripes except where there's actual hazard around the thruster...
I really like the grim dark metallic armor! I was probably one of the ones harassing you for something like this because I am interested in applying it to an army of grey knights. Thanks for suffering for our entertainment and education. I know the youtube game has been frustrating for you but I always love seeing new content from you pop up in my feed.
Metal looks so good, I thought you were scraping paint off of bare metal in the thumbnail. Confusion set in when the vid started with a plastic mini.
Love the way this turned out! I'm a noob to mini painting, so I enjoyed the perspective. Also, I had to mention that I can't not think of Baron Werner Ünderbheit when I saw what you did to the face shield.
Really enjoying this series!
That's something I never understood about all the different yellow paints I've used.
They all have bad coverage, don't flow well no matter what you do with them, and require multiple layers to get a solid color.
Why is that? What is it about yellow that makes it such a nightmare to paint with?
The end-result looks awesome!
I felt a relief when get to the part with a yellow paint. I'm painting a squad of Blood claws and I need to paint 30 yellow shoulder pads. It's a pain, since when I try to use opaque layer, I receive visible brush strokes. So instead I'm using diluted paint. And I need to make a layer, after layer and layer... Now I know that I'm not alone....Thank you!
I love you so I watched the sponsor part with no skip.
The solution to curved masking is "Flexible Masking Tape".
It's blue.
It's the same kind of tape as the plastic electrical phase tape, but it comes in millimetre widths. 2mm works well.
It conforms to curves and spheres really well.
Hello trovarion, I have tried your tutorial on black templars on my hernkyn pioneer, I had amazing results, fast and fun, now my question is will the same technique work on skin/skintone because I'm planning to work on some beserks.
What is your prefered inks you use thanx for amazing video.
I mostly use Liquitex, but I also have Daler Rowney. If you want to use any other brand for the Burnt Umber make sure it's transparent.
The blue contrasr paint blew my mind.
Using and gray undertone makes it way easier to apply yellow 🔥
yes. basically what i did in the second bass, only using white and getting the added benefit of the contrast paint giving a more vibrant yellow.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I often use several layers with exactly that kind of medium you used. The video did not specify how much water you did use for the chipping. From my experience it helps a lot to apply a lot of water and let it soak for some time if you want to deal with thicker layers - then even several stacked (thin) layers can be stripped quite well. If you apply a coat of clear varnish before the hipping medium it chips even easier.
I'm gonna give that metal effect a try the next time I work with metallics.
This would be a fun technique for the Order of the Argent Shroud too.
a Trovarion Travesty? Sounds like a great catch phrase or a name of a mini seires covering projects that go wrong or other crazy behavior :p
With yellow, you generally want to start with an ochre or brown base to build up. That fixes a lot of the coverage issues.
We have hello fresh here in DK too, and it is actually ok.
Now on the important part:
Now that is an Iron Warrior ❤
Great video! Been thinking of getting some grey knights but the thought of fully TMM shinyness (or worse NMM level of labour) has kept me from it. Might have a go with this approach instead!
What is that material he's using for masking?
If you want you could make it a personal challenge how to paint hazard stripes on any shaped surface be it sphere, flat, concave, ball or rod. (Without resorting to camoflage the result in wear and tear.
what paints did you use tried the metal trick with what I have but it didn't come out great.
What is that black goo around the area hes painting?
A perfectly timed video! It's only been in the last few days that I've started thinking about painting my Ork army in an Iron Waaaghiors scheme.
I had thought I would have to fake the Trovarion Technique using the brown paints (as he started the video talking about) but this dull/shiny contrast is much better.
Thank you!
I’ve found that the key to masking curved surfaces is to use 1-2mm wide masking tape. It can bend nice and uniformly and then you can fill in the area with thicker strips of tape.
Okay that was cool, and honestly super encouraging that new experiments can go wrong for even the best among us. Makes me less afraid to pick up the brush when I return home next month.
That said, I am FAR more hyped to see the Night Lord helmets in your cart. Edgy anti-heroes coming soon!? 🥹
I'm waiting for that killteam to come out Q_Q
What is that black sort of puddy your using to mask off areas?
masking putty
Fantastic video. I'd love to see you apply your technique to cloth and skin. Maybe a grimdark AoS model?
Yellow and black - always hard work to paint together - just ask an Imperial Fists painter.
how you dilute metallic paints?
cool finished effect. Model looks great!
I use chipping effects quite a bit with 1/35th scale military models, although I at times still use, Ive tried all the commercially available AK-MIG-AMMO types & found using a FINE-mist aerosol hair spray is MUCH more cost effective, as chipping medium is pretty much the same stuff w/o fragrance additives (Treseme FINE/Ultra Fine, no fragrance med/high hold, fine/black aerosol cans, work best for me after trying MANY different brands of hair-spray products. 2-3 light coats & youre all good for later effects IF top-coated with an air-brush) 'AK Worn Effects' & similar products are akin to re-bottling exact same hair-spray products with some formula tweaks in much smaller quantities & charging thrice as more for the product!?... (Like re-bottling $12.00 per QUART Minwax oil-base wood stains for 'Streaking Grime/Rust' products & $elling ONE fluid OUNCE bottle for $8.00!?;)
-Alot like home-commercial decorative/faux paint glazing products, charging uber-high $$$ per gallon, when one can simply use 'Flood' brand 'FLOETROL' paint conditioner/additive as a glazing substitute for MUCH le$$ money spent per gallon. (Floetrol IS a glazing compound, pretty much just a 'paint' carrier fluid w/o additional pigments & binding products;)...
-As I have too, you'd found the chief issue with hand-brushing over ANY chipping effects products or hair-spray. Airbrushing top-coat over the chipping medium is MUCH more effective. Even if the pre-top/finish coat chipping medium is sprayed on n' fully dry/cured, upon re-wetting it with a brushed on top coat, the chipping medium then reconstitutes & then COMBINES with the brushed paint, thereby deleting, diminishing & diluting the chipping medium & its hoped for later chipping effect. Even moreso when high total thickness/MM paint built-up begins with multiple light/neutral base coats being brush applied to achieve a more opaque color profile (Yellows/reds/purples/etc)...YES, its aggravating!...Ha!
-What your showing here HELPS so MANY miniature painters to avoid frustration, or ruining projects/products. GREAT work my man, keep it ^UP!...;)
Killin it as always. Love the IW scheme
Overall, this is very nice work, and you're certainly better with an airbrush than I ever will be!
A couple of notes of minor critique: white, then yellow is the standard approach, if laying yellow on anything darker than light gray; one idea you might have considered was using a slightly-gray white under the yellow and then when peeled back, it would suggest primer paint (think of the shade used in automobile work).
Subtle browns before the orange on the yellow would've built up tonal variety and felt more weathered. I really like using Windsor and Newton inks for that. You could've also used some brass / copper to break out some of the detail areas on the metallic parts (for example, the knuckles on the hand) with little touches here and there before the wash steps. The blue / brown is an interesting approach; I usually do diluted black, then browns, then orange, then back again w/ blacks where additional fluid leakage / smoke / etc. would be seen. Copper gets a whitish green, rapidly rubbed back, to suggest copper oxides.
The jetpack could've used some blue / purple to suggest metals that have been heated.
I've never seen a "chipping fluid" kind of method that was worth the effort. Yes, it might look a tad more realistic than simply using the sponge method, but at the cost of way more effort, layers, additional supplies (fluid or hairspray or whatnot) and also disaster is always looming. For models as tiny as 28/32mm, I don't think it's worth the effort. The sponge method and occasional retouching with a brush is more than enough.
holy hell thats awesome, and well done for coming back with solutions to the problems. The contrast wash combined with ink after at the start really sets the tone, and im looking forward to trying it with different variations.
As always, thanks for another top quality video :)
yep, that curverd lines are a bit problematic to mask, there as some elastic mask tape that works really good, (blue or white tape color, dont rememeber)