HOW TO TEST ALTERNATORS IN TODAY'S MODERN CARS AND TRUCKS
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2021
- In today's video we take a look at a 2010 Hyundai Genesis w/ a 4.6l V8 engine. The battery light on the instrument cluster is on. The owner took it to Autozone where they tested the alternator and told him that it needed to be replaced. He came to us for a second opinion. With alternators in today's newer vehicles being computer controlled, it is vital that we be 100% sure that we don't unnecessarily replace this very expensive part. Follow along as I show you how to test it!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Advanced Level Auto, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Advanced Level Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Advanced Level Auto recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Advanced Level Auto, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Advanced Level Auto. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
If ever there was a mechanic deserving of a fully loaded shop with all the conveniences, it's Eric. I hope this channel explodes into millions of subs.
I ran across this site yesterday. This young man doesn't hesitate when he is working and explaining. He leaves no doubt that he knows what he is doing!
“A few moments later…” that always makes me laugh. Thanks Eric for another great video.
You literally killed it. The most easiest and informative video about alternators. God bless you from Palm Bay, Florida
Man Eric you’re a whole nother level of a mechanic! Great video bro! We really appreciate you!
I feel like just left my tech school class great instructions Never miss your videos best on y-tube BN LINY
LINY here also. Agree about Eric's videos. Side note- do you have a Nascar connection?
Very educational video, I learned a lot about ecm control alternator. Your a good teacher.Thanks!
Big Eric I love the way you do your videos and how you explain everything! Even showing the connections you make! Great video as usual! Thanks for working hard on these videos we appreciate it!
I’m an electronic technician, and I love the way and knowledge you have. how you describe the function of every electronic diagram combining the practical testing and replacing a part in a car. an A+ from me.
Finaly somebody explains the modern alternater connections, TOP video!
I watch a lot of diagnostic videos on youtube, but your teaching is quick & topnotch. Keep at it, you will succeed.
How to test and diagnose a modern alternator. Great video and instructional. Thank you Eric.
AWESOME Eric, I click like before i watch the video because i know will be good with great info as ur other once thanks for sharing brother and now i am going to check the battery tester 50% off that is a great deal thanks and cheeeers .
Super vid. Will refer back to when checking alternators. Thank u!!
0:57 Nope. Didn't hear a thing :-P
Great vid again, sir!!!! Keep 'em coming!
Bro you are good and it’s good to see someone giving great advice and diagnosing the proper way. I love this channel
Thanks for sharing Eric,good tutorial to show HOW TO TEST ALTERNATORS
After weeks of looking on utube and the net I finally found some data on the PWM waveform coming out the car. Thank you.
That was really, really cool.
It's awesome to learn something new by way of your videos.
I love that you get straight to the point.
Thanks for the info and I hope you guys are diggin' the new house?
Eric thanks for sharing. All of your videos are excellent. Like how you give us a breakdown from the schematic. Very helpful to myself at least. Looks like a very simple yet helpful little tool to at least give you a quick understanding of what might be wrong. Hope you and family had a safe 4th of July Artie 😊
Very good at explaining how these systems work. With that discount, I ordered one of those KINGBOLEN BATTERY ANALYZER TESTER
Thanx Eric...good to know youre still online...keep a good work yaa..still supporting you buddy..
Great video man I really enjoyed it
Your a awsome teacher bro,appreciate you and all your well explained vids,great job Eric,your the Man brother
Great use of your tools! As always great video!
Thanks for sharing Eric,,, Cheers.
Perfect timing with eps and the thunder lol
Great explanations! Thank you.
Great diag Eric! The extra checks so worth doing so you can be 100% right that it needed a alternator. Not checking the connector by back probing could cost big bucks if you threw a alternator at it, but it actually was a broken wire going to the computer. Until that check, you really can't make the call to change the alternator. Thanks for the video!
Here, mostly people try to change Alternator IC instead change whole alternator module. anyway this Great video bro! We really appreciate you! now I understand alternator system
Thank you. Another great video.
gracias Erick siempre buenos videos mucho que aprender con usted
Like #6
Thanks for the video!
Life is a learning curve!
Hindsight is 20-15!
July 13-Lightning discount still being applied, so couldn't use this one. I'll wait and try later. Another great video Eric. Thanks!
You are so intelligent for such a young guy Eric, great video
Nice one and good work, I love your video intro all ways (A L A) Thank you. Habib Auto all day way from Ghana Accra West Africa
Nicely explained. Thank you
Nunca dejo de aprender de tus videos Gracias un montón
Very very good job esse !! From Sarasota , Florida ! The sunshine State and where The Best , never Rest !
Good testing yields good call on the alternator.
Awesome job my friend.
Great video. Very informative.
Excellent tutorial brother thank you for sharing God bless you
Excellent tutorial!
Great Video , well explained 👍🏻👍🏻
The timing with the thunder clap was epic
Great video brother. Love the tip on using a screwdriver to reach stud on alternator.
Very Awesome video..... Thanks.
Very helpful amigo thank you
Great video thank you.
Legend, thanks bro👍👍
like that tester! good info
Ran into same situation when testing the battery in my wife's BMW. 900 CCA however at the posts under the hood got less than 400 CCA. Repeated test at battery terminals and got a solid 900 CCA. Initially I was concerned however in doing research on this have learned that it has something to do with the resistance in the cables from the battery to the posts that causes the test meter to provide a false reading. Apparently the battery tester has a high level of sensitivity to resistance such that the additional resistance from the cables running the length of the car creates a bad reading. Bottom line - best to check battery at the battery.
Great video, especially your patient explanation of reading the wiring diagram.
Great job 👏
great work
Think I might check out that battery tester👌
I just updated the coupon code in the description. It’s 50% off during checkout!
I like those educational videos :)
I like ur work bro
Bro. What the hell. Eric, you beat me to the tool again bro. Lol. You ain't playing bro. Nice video
Nice video
It would be even nicer if he had shown how to tell if we had a feed signal from ECM to alternator when we do not have a wave form meter such as he has.
Does anyone know how it can be done?
UH...My Kingbolen should be here tomorrow...AND my THINNKDIAG dongle is working flawlessly on about 4 different cars so far. Thanks for the videos and demonstrating tools that work well without the "tool-truck" prices!
Perfect timing on the thunder clap. I don't care for electric power steering and thought it was a God moment. :-)
thank you so much Eric
Perfect...!!! 👌
Great job as always! Have you pondered why that the battery connections under the hood prevented an accurate test with the meter?
That would have bothered me until I had found the answer in the wiring diagram, etc., and if you did, would you mind sharing? Thanks!
Nice diag Eric!.
Good job eria
Awesome
Great explanation of the circuits. Do you ever repair alternators or just replace? Would be nice to know what went wrong. Maybe a fifty cent diode.
Consider yourself a specialist and start charging more. You’ve got the knowledge, experience, and work ethic.
I always forget the thumbs up ty for the reminder, done
Thanks for your support!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO I still think you are an auto mastermind.
It is almost 1am and i have be up early for training.....but my brain screams one more ALA video....lol
Bought an '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee that wasn't charging. Previous owner had already replaced the alternator. Turned out the control from the computer connection on the alternator was loose. Tighten the connection, charging again!
Awesome!
You are a beast !!
Hey buddy, always love your videos... Quick question, fair to say that when you do the voltage drop across BAT post and battery +ve, it won't show correct results since the circuit isn't loaded as the alternator isn't putting out any current?... What we expect to see is same or similar voltage at both but that wouldn't prove that the cable can handle high current without dropping significant voltage
At this point (4:35) the engine was running, Eric *could* have expected to find anything between 0V and 15V here, but 11.8 at the battery. But 11.8 was what he got.
Refer to the diagram (6:20) there is a fuse and other intermediate connections between alternator B+ post and battery.
As you say, no current flow means no voltage drop - but remember that conversely no voltage difference means that no current is *trying* to flow in this circuit - in other words you've ruled out the B+ cable from being the cause of the no-charge problem.
@@simonparkinson1053 @Simon Parkinson Hi Simon, thanks for taking time for such a detailed explanation. Really appreciate it. Fully agree with everything, however still struggling to see how we proved that the B+ cable from potentially ALSO being an issue. Hypothetically if this cable was also bad or corroded, we would still see the same readings and would have only found out after the same test was repeated with a new alternator. Then we would have seen a voltage drop from B+ on alternator to battery positive terminal.
@@topitinti5258 yes that is true, but the scenario of high resistance (fraction of an ohm) in the B+ cable causing a voltage drop under load would have caused a poor charge condition rather than a no charge condition.
Where the alternator is externally controlled and monitored, the battery voltage may still be maintained - the field duty cycle would be increased to compensate but the losses would still show up as overheating terminals etc - which with the high output currents of modern alternators do tend to be easily visible.
If the test was only done without the engine running, it would not be valid without applying a load.
For a high current circuit like this though, even a headlamp bulb is not that much of a load and the best test is with a working alternator.
Or as I mentioned in another comment, you could even use the battery tester to determine current capability of the circuit.
@@simonparkinson1053 Hi Simon, thanks again buddy... Just to make sure I understand, are we saying that if both alternator and cable were bad in this particular situation, we would have seen a different result on the voltage drop test?
Grasias
Great video Eric. Btw, why you didn't check the brushes on the faulty alternator??
Brushes? What brushes?
First of. I love your videos and case studies. I have question about your thoughts on letting the alternator charge the battery up. In your video the voltage was 11.8v. That tells me your battery is very low. I was always taught to charge the battery with a charger. The lowest setting and with the longest time is best. My question is what is your opinion? And the reason I was told to do it this was because a alternator is designed to run the vehicles load and replace the voltage from starting the car and that a alternator is not designed to charge a battery. Because I very low battery will cause the alternator to run at a 100% duty cycle and its just not designed for that. Hopefully I made sense. Thanks for your great videos
Hi Eric nice job and explanation . Does the battery sensor sense temperature?
No
Those remote jump start terminals show a lot of added resistance to the tester causing bad readings. If the tester reads in the mega ohm range for internal resistance when testing a good battery then it wouldn’t take much resistance at all to throw off the test. That’s why you always have to test directly at the terminal.
4:08 Good idea,. would be good also to tape the rod and leave the tip exposed.
WI need a mechanic like that in Belize
Wait... I don't have that Kingbolen BM580... but now I feel like I really need one. Although I probably would have just replaced the alternator after measuring < 12v and been done with it. Or hopefully done with it.
Thorough diagnosis . I am not sure what the specs are on Ripple Voltage . Possibly a half of a volt maximum . I think it's what the diodes leak as AC voltage into the system . If the diodes allow too much through , the battery will go dead . On OLD cars that used a red light to show there was no charging , it would light red with the key off . The leaking current lit the bulb . Bad diodes . There was a drain on the battery .
Yes
Good jpb
👍
Thanks to everythimg you share. What is the best Auto diagrams software fpr all the vehicles? Waiting your answer. Abbas from Kurdistan region of Iraq.
Awesome vid thanks for the help I will try that if an alternator gives out
Is the regulator module checkable and replaceable rather than a whole new alt.?
intro took me back to 2012
I have a question on alternators i hope you could answer . If you have a 105a alternator with a 10 gauge wire going through a 14 gauge fuseable link to the battery , with the vehicle running with alot of the accessories turned on the alternator may be putting out 50 or 60 amps maybe a bit higher or lower . Why doesnt the fuseable link blow , the capacity of a 10 gauge wire attached to a 14 gauge fusable link has a rating much lower then an alternator working hard with no issues . Maybe i am missing something but hope you can explain , thanks ..
hi eric ,just a question
i was wondering that could we conect a 12V direct cable instead of pwm on pin 2 of alternator ,i mean just for temporary or when we don't have access for brand new alternator??if not please tell me why.
REGARDS.
Thanks .where do i find the electrical diagrams ??
wish you were in my area
I assume the blue wire was your gen control. Can you tell the duty cycle by viewing scope data and would the be useful? Reason i ask is in scan tool data on chryslers gen% is duty cycle. Typically when they read 8000% that is a failed pcm. Although that is pcm data not actual measured at alt. Last question the final wire(orange) you stated is a feedback to pcm. What does it send and what should you expect to see? Thanks love the content trying to better my scope knowledge
0:53 like the start of a horror movie lol
That really caught me off guard lol
Hey erick una pregunta, cuándo es obvio que necesita alternator,,siempre cobras por chekar ,,si es ,,,? En este caso
Eric, do you ever take alternators and just get them repaired instead of buying a reman? I have a place here in MN within 10 miles of my house that rebuilds them and they are very reasonable. They will even upgrade components in them to put out more amperage and fix any defects with the original design.
First! Lesgo Eric!