The "Voron" for Beginners, Print Farms and Lazy People - Troodon 2.0 Quick Start Guide Part 1
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- čas přidán 29. 04. 2023
- The Troodon 2.0 is like a Voron with training wheels. It has much of the same functionality but comes mostly pre-assembled, making it an accessible offering for those less familiar with building 3D printers or those that don't have the time or desire to build a printer. In this video I walk through the assembly process on my second unit while providing valuable insights based on my experience.
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Buy the Troodon 2.0: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dlk...
Watch the full Troodon 2.0 series: • Troodon 2.0
TeamGloomy assembly instructions: teamgloomy.github.io/troodon_...
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Thanks Taylor, having recently ordered one of these printers I welcome your videos. My old CR10 is due for retirement...
Thanks for these videos about the Troodon 2.0. I picked one up and other than some calibration problems it's been pretty great. I'm going to go through your other videos for adding a RPi and Klipper next!
These are the kinds of videos I subbed for. Nice work!
Excellent video! Looking forward to part 2.
Shouldn’t you be watching the hockey game? 😂
Another amazing video, you never fail to impress😀
Thank you very much! 🐢 ❤️
Excellent startup video!
Thank you!
Keep ‘em coming brother.
Thanks friend. Will do 👍🏻
Really cool video. Found it as I'm planning on buying some of the new minis. Can you tell which sound analyzer app you're using. I just couldn't find one that's as snappy as yours. Thanks!
4:55, my gantry seems to have a skew to it. When I try to level it off of the base, one corner always wants to dip back below the others. I had to loosen the screws that holds the gantry square just to screw it in the bearing blocks, this wasn't too hard, but this being my first Core XY and Vivedino saying to ensure that the gantry is less than 1mm off level at each corner before screwing into the bearing blocks makes me question if this is bad assembly at the factory or if it's not important.
Just ordered a 2.0 the other day, perfect timing. Not sure if you have come across this yet but there is a Voron Belt kit for the 350mm 2.4 R1/2, going to order it as well and see if it will work with the 2.0 as a fast way to get auto part removal with the lower overall build time.
Oooh that would be awesome. Let me know if that works out for you.
@@ygk3d Looks like the 2.0 board comes stock with 7 drivers, will need to swap the board/wiring harness to the Octopus 1.1 most likely to allow install for the conveyor. Confirmed with the Formbot engineers this is the case. Also looks like I am installing Klipper sooner vs later 🤷♂
nice video! I was thinking of getting the voron kit from FormBot but this options seems more and more attractive, especially with your video on converting to Klipper! Any news on whether they will do a stealth burner hotend upgrade soon?
Thanks! Yes, they have a Stealthburner upgrade kit that they will be releasing soon. I have one on the way and will make a video on it when it arrives.
@@ygk3d btw if you have not seen it yet. Someone has created a pressure advance calibration open source project, kind of what you get with Bambu Labs X1C but in this case was demonstrated on Voron! One step closer to automating calibration for prints on the Voron series. czcams.com/video/c1hrP0gduRU/video.html
@@philipjensen6442 will definitely check that out. Thanks for sharing.
its about a year later - anyone know if the bearings have been updated to metal sealed bearing on the extruder in the kit?
Would you recommend this over the Creality K1 max for ABS? I really like the 350mm build volume as I need it on occasion and it's the only thing making me consider this printer over the K1 Max.
I have a K1 (non max) in a box. Haven’t opened it yet to comment on its quality. The K1 will likely be better out of the box than the Troodon but way less mod-able and less compatible with community upgrades. The Troodon can run stock Klipper while the K1 is locked down to Creality’s version, with many of the useful features stripped out. The K1 seems to have a thicker enclosure than the Troodon so in that regard the chamber temperatures will likely stay higher for ABS printing.
Hey Taylor! Do you have a PLA slicer profile for prusaslicer and the troodon?
You can use the Voron profiles and just change the start code. TeamGloomy has one on their GitHub. Alternatively, there are Troodon specific profiles built in to OrcaSlicer. Note that in both cases you’ll need to be running TeamGloomy firmware, not stock firmware.
@@ygk3d Thanks
Do you know if you got to also upgrade the bearings on the stealth burner they released
You don’t. They are steel sealed from factory.
I bought one of these a few weeks ago and it prints really well. I'm not happy with the bed leveling sensor though, seems very inconsistent. Do you have any plans to upgrade to Tap or Klicky on this machine? If you do, I would be very interested in the details, or if it's possible.
Yes. I have already fitted Klicky on one of my Troodons. I’ll cover the process as part of my upgrade series which will follow this beginner series
@@ygk3d Awesome, looking forward to it!
You plucked the long side? That doesn't work, the frequency changes with length. What I've found is that app works great if you pluck gently and point the microphone on the phone as close to the belt as possible, like a centimenter (less than half an inch for you americans). It worries me that the tension is basically zero at 110 Hz, those belt tension screws are basically hand tightened. Should be another nut in there to lock it in place.
Hi, Have a lot of trouble with my Troodon 2.0.
a lot of noise on the z axis.
Play between linear rail and toolhead.
Printing Pla is a matter of luck, had already considered going to bimetallic hotend.
How has been your experience so far?
just finshed a build of this yesterday :P did throw away the sticker and the cooling is not good enough for a pla benchy with the voron 2.4 profile in orca slicer
Check out the 5015 fan upgrade for the Voron Afterburner. That will help with cooling.
@@ygk3d yes did work thanks
Any chance you have enraged rabbit to try on one of these? I'd be interested in seeing that for sure. Seems like a good next printer for me so far
I have a kit in a box and am planning on building it and documenting the process. Seems like a pretty complicated build so it may be a while before any of that content is published.
@@ygk3d awesome. I think I'm probably going to buy this printer this year. I know a lot of people I've talked to like their x1c but I often use the large bed size on my ender 5 plus and don't have time to build a full voron
I was inspired by these videos.
I built one Troodon 2.0. And: mechanically it is not a perfect kit, the holder for the filament sensor is missing (does it have to fly on cables?), the front door does not fit well even when using a 3mm sealing. It is not possible to set up Wi-Fi via the setup in the gcode file (I also tried what teamgloomy wrote), on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz. I'll try again via USB. WiFi was off, setup gcode works after switching WiFi on in printer menu. WiFi is for a while on, now doesnt work :-( Possibly too far from roter? Computer in same room doesnt have a problem. After added second - closer WiFi point, printer was connected.
Display holder is a bit wobbly. Sometimes printer doesnt reflect command form menu, like "Load fillament".
The control is really weakly designed against the old Prusa 3S. Benchy's first test boat lasted 1.2 hours (3PL, 5T, 4B, 20% infill, default profile settings). I printed via the profile that is on the supplied SD card, using Simplify3D, on Fast option. Where is the speed? It's a printer for people who enjoy working to improve it :-) Now I understand why somebody try to use Clipper or other tweeks. Unfortunately, I'm not sure about the benefits of "improvements". There is also a lot of time and effort and benefits are not explained in videos about Troodon. Would be please possible to make a video comparing user experience with out of the box Troodon 2.0 and improved Troodon? Including of resource links and time/budget on each improvement? Would be on the end better to buy expensive Voron kit from LDO and spend 30 hours of building it?
Can you put an ercf on this?
Yes
Unfortunately in my country only way is to get voron. Because of some strange law we have to get approval from ministry of commerce before importing 3d printers.
You CANNOT grease the linear rails outside, you NEED to get the grease into the carriage. Those carriages have wipers which will stop the grease from getting inside and just pushes it aside.
Mhh… interesting. Unfortunately it was very difficult to get the grease in the holes here.
I have to say, so far this has been the worst printer experience I've had. It refuses to stick to the bed. I've been printing with creality CR10 for years with no issue. I had the hotend jammed because the heatbreak was not properly screwed in. I still haven't printed anything. That 3h should be changed to 3 weeks.
Sorry to hear. Did you follow part 2 of this guide to upgrade the firmware and set the z offset? The z offset is almost always the culprit for lack of adhesion. The stock PEI bed works well for most materials. For ABS I’d suggest adding glue stick.
@@ygk3d I managed to get PLA to stick to the smooth side at 70 degrees. Are you saying ABS will be even worse haha? I've done everything in the team gloomy instructions and in your video but the layer stacking is horrible. I think I have to tune the extruder next. You would expect it to be decently tuned stock and only do fine adjustments though. I also had an idler in the back grinding against the back enclosure so had to resquare it. I also didn't get it delivered for 2 months because UPS lost it. I mean what else can be wrong haha? 1 out of 5 experience. However the printer does have potential to be great. Will just have to sort out everything.
@@ygk3d It seems I was an idiot, for some reason my prusasicer profile was set to extrude 180%.
So the printer comes from factory with a busted extruder. Welp that's an easy dont buy red flag. Easy pz..thanks for sharing the truth.
A Voron for colourblind people who shouldn't maybe start a printer from scratch. Training wheels? Sure. Great vid Taylor.
Haha thanks Jason. I’ve never thought of the implications of colour blindness on printer building… I can imagine that would make wiring difficult.
@@ygk3d I'm very proficient with a multimeter. And I own a 38 year old German Ford. Hard mode enabled. :)