A "Voron" on Easy Mode - Troodon 2.0 Beginner's Guide Part 2
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2023
- This is part two of the Troodon 2.0 beginner’s guide. In this video I walk through the firmware updating procedure, slicer setup, and initial calibration prints.
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Watch the full Troodon 2.0 series: • Troodon 2.0
Buy the Troodon 2.0 (AliExpress): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dlk...
Buy the Troodon 2.0 (Formbot): www.formbot3d.com/products/tr...
My GitHub page: github.com/YGK3D/Troodon-2-Kl...
TeamGloomy Wiki: teamgloomy.github.io
TeamGloomy GitHub: github.com/TeamGloomy/Troodon-V2
TeamGloomy Config Bundle: github.com/TeamGloomy/Troodon...
Fix WiFi Issues: teamgloomy.github.io/troodon_...
RepRap Firmware Download: github.com/gloomyandy/RepRapF...
DuetWebControl Download: github.com/Duet3D/DuetWebCont...
BtnCmd Plugin Download: github.com/MintyTrebor/BtnCmd... - Věda a technologie
another well done video. looking forward to the next one.
Another good one :) Lots of information in that one. Looking forward to the mods,
Can't wait for the next video, interested in seeing your take on the mods! Thanks!
yooo. been waiting for this video for loooooong time!!!!!
Saw my name at the end! Looking forward to more Troodon content.
IMPORTANT: After removing the two lines from config-override.g reboot the printer. Otherwise, the gantry leveling procedure will try to probe off the back of the bed.
ALSO, after updating, don’t use the stock start code. Use the TeamGloomy start code from the profile supplied on their GitHub or use the Troodon 2.0 profile that is built into OrcaSlicer.
This is a great video and tutorial. Thanks a lot.🙂
Great video! Had one minor issue:
The latest firmware (as of 05/31/23) for 2 - Autoz trigger height.g has line 43 (to move the nozzle over the probe) as ";G1 X120.5 Y0 F1800" which is the front left, after some measuring and testing it should be: "G1 X235 Y360 F1800". Just a heads up.
I accidentally used the old macro and ran into this problem but the new one is correct. Your comment helped me figure it out :P Thanks.
Fantastic information!!!
I have been eyeing a voron for a long time, but just don’t have the time to build one.
There were some quality issues with the original Troodon and I held off.
Now since this is built more off the voron core design I’m really intrigued. I have the E3D revo system on my other printers and they have the high flow setup coming out.
How easy would it be to to put one of the revo systems in?
Thanks! Glad you found it useful.
It would be plug and play, besides potentially needing to crimp different connectors on the Revo thermistor and heater cartridge so they can plug into the extruder breakout board, and changing the thermistor definition in firmware (stock is PT1000). I’m thinking of installing one myself.
@@ygk3d so worth it? I have a prusa mk3s+ and heavily modified CR10s pro v2 and ender6.
I need a reliable printer with near the CR10s build volume…. I’m not horribly worried about blazing speed but a little faster would be nice. Still waiting on my prusa XL with 5 heads.
Hi, great job. I have question to you. There is any chance to get somewhere original SD card image from the mainboard of Troodon 2.0? Because i somehow play with this card and delete some files. Now the printer is "dead"
Thank you! You can find the stock files here: github.com/TeamGloomy/Troodon-V2/tree/stock
I would add that you should have the bed up to temp before doing the z and probe offsets. Multiple cycles up to temp seem to help the bed settle in the mounts. On the machine that I run ABS on, I get it up to 110. After multiple iterations my mesh has really levelled out, and I have a great first layer. On the PETG machines, doing the same at 85 has worked. If I were to start running ABS on that machine, I would want to re-z @ 105-110. I can say that failing to get up to temp to get a great z cost me bed damage due to printing way too close and messing up the texture by practically imbedding the PETG into it.
That’s good advice. Thanks!
I appreciate the tutorial. I got everything setup, sliced a file in Orca, and started the print. Less than a second later it said it was a 100% finished. I tried multiple times and nothing would work. tried different slicers and get the exact same result. Very expensive paperweight at the moment.
Mhhh… that’s a new one. Do you see any error in the console in the web interface?
@@ygk3d Nothing at all. Everything looks fine.
@@ScottStoneUnforgivenII is it otherwise functioning normally? Homing, heating, etc.? Does anything happen after you start the print?
@@ygk3d Everything seems to be in good working order. Nothing at all happens when I start the print.
@@ScottStoneUnforgivenII you might want to try just reuploading the improved system files, then rebooting. Did you set up BtnCmd?
I've recently purchased a Troodon 2.0 and followed your most excellent guides here. After uploading the Team Gloomy config and updating the web interface, the control panel on the front of the machine has a red knob light, where as I am seeing green/blue on yours. My assumption is red means some form of error, but nothing seems to be amiss and I *can* print files (I'm still tuning and testing so alot of failures and issues with the machine that will need fixing). Have you or anyone reading come across this with the Troodon? I have little idea of where to look. I'm new to this level of printer, but have been using 3D printers for some 9 years.
Thanks for watching! Glad the guides have been useful for you.
The LED colour is just a stylistic choice. It is not a status indicator. You can change the colour from within the screen.g configuration file. The original default knob colour was blue but in the latest firmware it was changed to red to match the colour scheme of the printer.
@@ygk3d Ah that is awesome news. 1 less problem to solve. I’ll likely end up on you Paetron once get the basics dialled in.
@@lambolica Cheers. Much appreciated. Lots of good stuff over there for the Troodon and otherwise :)
Have you ordered the stealthburner as well?
Yes. It has arrived and I’ll be releasing a video on it soon.
@@ygk3d perfect looking forward to it
Seems the printer is now sent with Klipper.
Would be great if Orcaslicer supported the printer profile.
Cheers.
Indeed it is. There is a Klipper profile for it in OrcaSlicer already.
I have Ver. 1.9 Orca but the there is not even the product line showing up.
Would it be under a different name?
I was looking for Troodon.
Looking to upgrade from my Neptune 4.
Cheers.@@ygk3d
so I started over with my machine, followed your video, now the y is backwards, nozzle crashes, its a bigger mess than ever. I don't understand.
Just happened the same, that is becouse induction probe is now behind bed. As ygk3d mentioned month ago: 😃
IMPORTANT: After removing the two lines from config-override.g reboot the printer. Otherwise, the gantry leveling procedure will try to probe off the back of the bed.
@@Honza7208 just go klipper, or buy a machine that has real r&d like a Bambu maybe a K1
Love your videos, but can you please start including more focus on the print quality? One of those benchies did not look very good at all. And there seems to be no comparison to other popular printers.
Thanks. I’ll place more of an emphasis on this in the future. The benchy wasn’t as bad as the footage made it look. The stringing was the worst part and that’s just filament/tuning related. Overall I’m happy with the quality of the prints off this machine. The orca cube I show earlier in the video is a better representation. Really clean top layer on that.
I will also add that the printer can only connect to 2.4 Ghz Wifi.
"Sadly" i have 5 Ghz, just by knowing this the Troodon 2.0 get's discarded on my search to be my new printer.
It's a bittersweet feeling because i really wanted to have it, the only advantage i see to this is that now i don't have to worry about assembled it.
It’s surprising how many devices only work on a 2.4 GHz network. Most routers have the option to broadcast both 2.4GHz and 5GHz.
If you covert to Klipper the Raspberry Pi can run on 5GHz.
@@ygk3d can i use an old laptop instead of the Raspberry Pi?
@@omegadeepblue1407 I’ve heard of people doing that but I’m not familiar with the process. You’d have to refer to the Klipper documentation.
@@ygk3d thanks.
However i also found other alternative, i have a old signal amplifier from a company called TP Link, and guess what?
The amplifier sends a signal of 2.4 Ghz, i think i will use my old computer for only control the 3D printer.
WTF, I follow these instructions, run the probe trigger height, and this mf'er runs the nozzle to y=350 and slowly smashes tf out of it into my bed, cool. coolcoolcoolcoolcool.
Did you delete the lines from config override and reboot the printer before running the macro? (see pinned comment)