I just saved a 15-91 Centennial from heading to the dump and it is in its original sturdy sewing table. Was at a charity shop and it was not selling simply because is was fuzzy with dirt & dust...pretty scruffy looking. After thorough look over, I found it to be nearly new! I donated them $20 for their cause and happily packed it home. The paint is pristine, as are the decals. You are the first place I checked for information. Soooo happy to learn more about it. It is waiting for its go through as I'm rewiring a White Rotary 77 (thanks to you!) and just finished going through a White Rotary 9002 (?) with crinkle black paint, cast iron embossed with lovey chrome and decorative original sewing case (walnut?) It, too, is very low miles. My elderly sewing machine addiction needs more room! It is soooo satisfying to reclaim these old, wonderful beauties...the hard part is parting with them! Thank you for all the time you put into helping us save these beauties.
the other things missing- the wool oil pad in the presser bar bushing (3/8-1/2" diam)- top of machine where the screw is for adjusting the pressure- and the needle bar bushing may also be missing this oil pad (1/4") also top of machine . Without these pads the oil flows way too freely down the length of the bars as the oil flow is uncontrolled. Didn't even know this until a guy made me look! I'd just taken to frequent blotting after oiling!
I have wanted an old Singer sewing machine for years. My mother did not get my grandmother's machine. 7 kids in the family. I first bought a sewing cabinet 100 years old. Then I found a 1902 Singer #27. Just got it back from the shop and came back fantastic. Now just have to put it in the treadle cabinet.
You seem to have missed the real point of the set screw in the stitch length lever. To set your stitch length you slacken the screw, move the lever to say 10 stitches per inch then slide the lever up until the slide hits the lever, lock down the screw and as you say it will stop the lever moving down to a different stitch length due to vibration during machine use, but the real beauty is that the lever can move UPWARDS to reverse sitch or back tack but will only move up until it hits the movable plate in the mechanism at the exact point where it produces 10 stitches per inch or 8 or whoever else you have set so that back stitches match the forward stitches length & so making backtracking much neater in appearance.
If I might interject, you missed part of the point of the "thumb screw" on that plate. If you look at the numbers on the plate for the stitch length, pick a setting, let's say you select "7". Now loosen and slide the THUMBSCREW down till it stops and turn it tight. Now commence sewing (forward).... When you want to reverse your stitch and back up, you just slide the paddle shaped lever the other direction until it stops, and like magic, it will stop at the same stitch length setting in reverse as you had set in the forward position. That's what it's for. It has nothing to do with the machine "laboring" and anything jumping around.
Thank you for the thorough description JP. I should add that my point about the "jumping" is that I have noticed on rare occasions that if the machine is asked to sew through very heavy fabric, setting this feature can help keep the stitch length consistent. I noticed that if it were not set, the stitch length lever can move up on its own from the longest stitch length setting.
It's easy to see why you love this model, Shellie. It may have been the most highly produced sewing machine model in history; especially if you count all of the 'Clone' copies that were made and might even still be getting produced in some developing countries!
Good video. I have a 15-91 on the work bench right now in pieces. I have my spool posts and set screws but what I was missing was the power cord. Borrowed one from my Singer 401A to test out the motor and it worked.
I noticed right away the missing bobbin winding spool pin and the stitch regulator thumb screw. I have a 1948 201, and I know they are similar. I keep acquiring vintage sewing machines. I love it! I'm expecting my 1926 127 with motor and light option from eBay any time. I will very soon be the proud owner of a treadle Singer, age near the turn of the century. I have a 1930 Singer 99, which I love sewing on. I watch your videos, as they are very informative, and among the best out there. I recently was given a 1917 Western Electric sewing machine. There is not much info out there, but I've learned a few things about them. Mine has the vibrating shuttle. Keep up the great videos!
Hello, I am refurbishing a 15-91, my first project like this. I am a lifelong sewer, have a number of machines, and like to tinker. My machine was a $10 Goodwill rescue. It had no power cord and the bobbin area was missing several parts. I have been systematically going through it, section by section, cleaning corrosion off of parts, oiling, and adjusting. I initially ordered a replacement bobbin hook and bobbin case, but then had to just replace the whole bobbin assembly. I felt ready to check timing and try getting it to sew. When I put all of the bobbin assembly together and put in a needle (it is the correct type) -- and it did take a while to get the needle clamp and thread guide back on the needle bar -- I carefully turned the hand crank and the needle hit the bobbin case. Ugh. So I took out enough parts to be able to see the hook as the needle moved up and down to try to adjust timing, but it appears that the timing looks good -- it appears the hook and needle are synchronized except that the needle appears to go too deep (not much). There is a specification I came upon on line for how much of the needle should penetrate beyond the hook. I have already adjusted the height of the presser foot to the measurements specified in the manual. The other clue is that when the presser foot is up, the needle (actually the needle clamp and thread guide) collide with it at the lowest point (enough to prevent turning the handwheel). This could be normal, but it would make corners (pivoting fabric around the needle in its lowest position) very awkward, and the manual makes no mention of not raising the presser foot when the needle is down. My suspicion is that the needle bar is set too low. It coincides with the markings etched in the bar although by that could be a tiny bit higher. I do not know if the bushing has been moved or adjusted. Following the instructions in the manuals, I loosened the set screw for the needle bar (hard to get to and very tight) but I am not yet able to move it. In all of the fussing, I have misplaced the bobbin case so I have ordered another. It will be interesting if the problem persists with a different bobbin case, although the collision still doesn't make sense. Do you have any suggestions. I enjoy your videos. A completely different question -- is the Featherweight still available?
OMG I was wondering that this morning and now I realize that my sewing machine is missing the lower spool pin, I will buy one soon!! Thank you for the info, these vids are very helpful! Greetings from Costa Rica!
Moises Serrano mine is missing the top spool holder. That’s what brought me to search for one and I got sidetracked on YT. Lol! Anyone know where we can order “missing” parts?
@@dreamwrvr9257 Sewing Parts Online or Amazon has parts for the 15-91. Be aware that the 15-91 spool pin is larger in diameter than the YA-1 spool pin. I got mine on Ebay from Australia.
RICH LOVIN I bought a pin from Etsy and it just came in the mail today. It doesn’t seem like it will be all that secure though. Does anyone know if I’m supposed to “tap” in the top spool holder like the bottom bobbin pin? Stupid question I know....but I’d like it to stay put while sewing or storing. 🙂
The correct spool pin for these has a short taper on one end. Insert the tapered end into the opening hole and gently tap it into place by using a wooded handle (such as that on a rubber mallet) and a hammer to get it in. It should "set" and stay in. Using the wooden handle makes it easier on the machine and keeps you from marring the pin.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage thanks so much! Is there a thread cutter on this machine? It looks like my machine has something with a sharp edge but it’s not all that sharp to cut thread. Just spent a while on singers website and haven’t seen anything.
Hi Kenny. Try joining one of the vintage sewing machine groups on Facebook. There are some groups dedicated specifically to vintage Singer machines. Someone there may be able to direct you to a local source for repair/restoration.
I have a Singer AB221881, class 15 dated 1926, with a No.47 oscillating bobbin. I don't have the bobbin pin or wheel on the base, no holes showing for a pin or missing wheel. I don't have the book for it. How do I wind bobbins?
I just stumbled on your youtube. I found a Singer machine that looks a somewhat like you have here. I would like to take a chance and see if I can fix it. Totally new to this idea. I have Pfaffs and Berninas that are about 50 year old. I liked what you said about this style machine will sew heavy fabrics.. I would like to sew a denham quilt for great grandkids to throw around outside. So it will be for the fun of it all. Suggestions on how to go about it would be appreciated love to try.
Judi, Step one is to go online and look up the serial number on one of the databases. I think you'll find it stamped on a small flat surface. It will tell you when and where the machine was made, and most importantly the model number. You can then search for videos, parts and a manual. The great thing about Singer, as this man said, is the parts are easily found. Those old ones were built like battleships, if you oil it up there is an excellent chance that it will work right now. Take care and check the wiring carefully before you plug it in. The wiring insulation was rubber, not vinyl, and it is prone to cracking and crumbling. It is easily replaced by just about anyone with some basic electrical knowledge. Good luck. Ian
I have 2 questions: 1. Would happen to know if all vintage Singer sewing machines had the tapered spool holder? I've seen also very similar ones but that have threads, allegedly also for Singer. Trying to figure this out for a couple of my machines. 2. How can one detach the tapered spool holder? I have a broken Singer that I found and would like to use this part for a functional one.
I got old singer sweing machine AF405107. I don't know how to stop mother when not using. I have to pull the plug out from wall outlet. Also the needle bar continually move even I move nickel hand wheel clockwise or anti clockwise.
Thank you for this. I am fascinated with these old Singer machines. I believe they are as near mechanically perfect as one could hope for. I am going to look at my 1st machine this weekend and it is nearly identical to this one. I looked at a similar one in an antique store today (not under power) and fiddled with that stitch adjustement. I noticed that when I set the thumb screw at +- 15-30 stitch per inch, the lever wouldn't seem go up into reverse unless I lowered that thumb screw. What am I missing about this function? Edit; On 2nd thought, maybe I was supposed to raise the lever to the desired setting 1st, then raise the thumbscrew to the BOTTOM of the lever.. duh
It sounds like you figured it out. Whenever you find a situation like that where its not intuitive how a machine's settings work, the user manual is your friend and a great resource. Manuals back in those days were quite thorough. And yes, I am very enamored with Singers. They are amongst the most user friendly machines to work on.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I ended up purchasing the 15-91 machine from CL. After polishing the bright metal and a little rubbing, It is near museum quality. I got extremely lucky, I bought the machine from the original owners grandson for $200. It has lived it's life in a single living room in Boulder Colorado until a month ago. Only issue is it hasn't been used regularly since the mid 70's & Even tho the original wiring insulation is in great condition, the power cord has taken it's folded shape so I ordered a new replacement, as well as new Grease wicks, motor brushes, ect. I didn't want to even try to run the motor after seeing some of the YT videos until I disassembled the motor for cleaning and rewiring if needed but that original 87 yr old wiring inside the motor looks flawless. I am as proud of this machine as any other equipment I own! Cheers
Is there a website which sells the original carbon pile foot pedals? Mine works perfectly but the case is broken and rubber feet broken so I need a new case.
I loosen the back part to disengage my needle section when spooling the bobbin. But, no matter what I do, the needle is still engaged. Does anyone care to venture a guess as to why?
I inherited one of these and I cannot for the life of me make it work, no matter what I try. The tension fights me every step of the way. I disassembled and reassembled the tension components and there's no resistance at 0, a little resistance at 5, and great resistance at 9. I'm threading it correctly according to the guides I'm seeing on youtube and the manual. It just won't stay right for me. I get some good stitches and then they start to skip, and then the top thread comes undone and the whole thing is a mess. It tangles and nests often on the underside of the fabric. I've checked the bobbin, the top thread looking for any kind of problem that I could have done. I set it up exactly the same way everyone else does. It just won't work for me. It's so frustrating! Do you have guides to help calibrate the tension???
I'm nobody but seem to remember a nesting issue I had after removing the bobbin case assembly on a new (old) machine for oiling and not getting it back together quite right. It wasn't a tension issue at all. And, many issues with stitching can be solved with a new needle.
I have been watching all you cleaning and maintence vidios recenlt because I was gifted a Singer 101 , serial number from 1922, the first machine by singer sold to households. My last two maintenance areas are the, motor grease cleaning and also dont know it the box where the machine turns on from inside the machine under the memovable cover. Does this require andy maintenance? my is clean but not lubricated.
I have a AE357881 looking for a presser foot and having issues with the needle picking up the bottom thread any ideas I am also looking for a manual. Thanks
I recently got a 15-91 and was able to download (free) both the instruction manual and the manual for adjusters. Just Google. It sounds like the problem you are having is either timing or incorrect threading (I would bet timing). Should also check needle bar height. (problem I am dealing with). Good luck!
I’m missing the disk under that cover that stops that stitch . Where do I get the disk that slides . I have the cover that has the stitch length but don’t have that slideable disk. How or where do I get one? I did not know that was even missing. I don’t have the moveable slideable disk....jeez Louise!!
I recently acquired one and yes, it's missing both of those pins! I got replacements, and my bobbin tire is cracked and worn out. I got a new one. But I don't know how to install it. It also has a timing issue I believe. And I got a new power cord for it. Can you tell me where to get the correct bobbin case and bobbins for this machine I believe I have it, but I need to look at it and make sure it's the correct ones. Thank you! I really want to use this machine to make some wallets and handbags out of cloth and vynil with heavy stabilizers. This is the perfect machine for that.
Hello. First, I would try replacing the bobbin case. I also would suggest checking out my "TROUBLESHOOTING SERIES" videos to go through some basic checks before looking at the timing. Something as simple as a needle not properly installed can offset the timing. Timing can be off but its very uncommon unless a prior owner abused the machine. For the bobbin case, you can purchase vintage ones or new replacements. Bobbin cases have a certain life span and can fail or rust which also causes issues. For vintage bobbin cases, you can try a website I find very helpful: bonanza.com For new replacements, I often use: shop.sew-classic.com/ Those Singer 15s are very strong and durable machines, but there are a number of things that can cause your issues. Also remember to check and see if your tension assembly is working correctly. With patience, its quite possible you will get this strong machine back on the mend!!
Strangely the lock plate isn't much good for locking the max length stitch in, when using extra thick materials... It only locks the stitch when using very small stitches. Counter intuitive. When as you say, stitching thicker fabrics are more likely to shift the length of the stitch.
I just purchased a "--15--" and it looks like the 15 you are showing and some call it a 15-91. The manual that came with my machine is for a 15-125. Can you tell me the difference. The IMACS show that this is just a "15" made May 11, 1954. Another video person says the newer class 15 bobbins work well in the machine but not in the bobbin winder. Any comments on that before I purchase a few extra bobbins? Thanks for your time and excellent videos.
Hello Mindy. Most vintage sewing machines "prefer" not only metal Class 15 bobbins, but specifically, VINTAGE metal ones. These are very plentiful and not costly. As long as you use 'vintage' in your search terms for these, you can find them many places such as Ebay, Etsy, Bonanza, and others. Your 15-175 was the "New and Improved" version of the 15-91. It had the same "Potted Motor" and drive train components of the 15-91, but in a newly shaped body which came in the traditional black but also lighter colors like mint green and beige/brown. Just as with the 15-91 which also came in a less costly version using traditional rear mount motors and motor belts, your machine also offered that option. It was called the 15-75. I've not see many of these since when they were introduced, people were increasingly moving towards competing models with ZigZag and Multi-Stitch capabilities. Here is a link to the 15-75 version that I restored and videoed czcams.com/video/j4zKIlvUj5g/video.html
I have a 201 that came with the spool pin missing...sheared off in the top. I haven't been able to get it out. Is there a secret to removing the bottom part of the spool pin from the machine???
It seems there are two kinds...one that screws in and one that needs to be pounded in....how can you tell which on you need if it was sheared off ? Can't seem to remove it!
Hello Ann. If you are referring to the pin down on the bed of the machine that is used for bobbin winding, the hole in the bed goes all the way through the bed and you could use a nail set or some other tool to tap it out from underneath. The singer spool pins of this era are tappered on the bottom.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm referring to the spool pin on the top of the machine. I've tried to pound it out and tried to drill it out...Pounding it out didn't accomplish anything and .It must have been made of some really strong steel because it's really hard for a drill bit to drill it out. Do you have a solution?? Am I approaching the problem wrong?
Ann Waters The spool pin on top of a Singer 201 is threaded with right hand thread. You state that you have drilled out the center of the old, sheared off spool pin. You need to try a proper sized extractor to back out the sheared off spool pin. Always soak the threads with sewing machine oil before trying to extract or remove anything stubborn. Do not shear off the extractor in the drilled hole! If you do, then that is three steps backward.
I've just recovered a similar machine to this one but it has no motor. Also the serial number begins with E. I can't locate where it was made (!?). Any ideas?
Hello. If you use the whole serial number and check it at ISMACS site under Singer serial numbers, you will find the year it was produced. Sometimes, it will show where it was made also. If yours is old enough, it might have been for treadle use or it might just be missing its motor. You can get replacement motors, brackets and bracket bolts for these.
Just wondering, is my Singer with Serial # AK629342 the same "model" as this one??? I'm a newbie - just got out an family heirloom I've been saving for years. Now that years have passed, I've got it out and I'm trying ti figure out the model so I can order parts! So far, the machine you use in this video looks the closest to the one I have when compared to all the images I've found so far on the internet...
That shows up on the ismacs.net site as a model 15 from 1951, I believe. They have all the Singer serial numbers there, with dates and models. It all starts with one machine haha.
I just saved a 15-91 Centennial from heading to the dump and it is in its original sturdy sewing table. Was at a charity shop and it was not selling simply because is was fuzzy with dirt & dust...pretty scruffy looking. After thorough look over, I found it to be nearly new! I donated them $20 for their cause and happily packed it home. The paint is pristine, as are the decals. You are the first place I checked for information. Soooo happy to learn more about it. It is waiting for its go through as I'm rewiring a White Rotary 77 (thanks to you!) and just finished going through a White Rotary 9002 (?) with crinkle black paint, cast iron embossed with lovey chrome and decorative original sewing case (walnut?) It, too, is very low miles. My elderly sewing machine addiction needs more room! It is soooo satisfying to reclaim these old, wonderful beauties...the hard part is parting with them! Thank you for all the time you put into helping us save these beauties.
the other things missing- the wool oil pad in the presser bar bushing (3/8-1/2" diam)- top of machine where the screw is for adjusting the pressure- and the needle bar bushing may also be missing this oil pad (1/4") also top of machine . Without these pads the oil flows way too freely down the length of the bars as the oil flow is uncontrolled. Didn't even know this until a guy made me look! I'd just taken to frequent blotting after oiling!
Learned something new today! Thanks, Annie! I found a link to his video about installing a new oil wick: czcams.com/video/edJkboOOa2c/video.html
I have wanted an old Singer sewing machine for years. My mother did not get my grandmother's machine. 7 kids in the family. I first bought a sewing cabinet 100 years old. Then I found a 1902 Singer #27. Just got it back from the shop and came back fantastic. Now just have to put it in the treadle cabinet.
That is awesome!
You seem to have missed the real point of the set screw in the stitch length lever. To set your stitch length you slacken the screw, move the lever to say 10 stitches per inch then slide the lever up until the slide hits the lever, lock down the screw and as you say it will stop the lever moving down to a different stitch length due to vibration during machine use, but the real beauty is that the lever can move UPWARDS to reverse sitch or back tack but will only move up until it hits the movable plate in the mechanism at the exact point where it produces 10 stitches per inch or 8 or whoever else you have set so that back stitches match the forward stitches length & so making backtracking much neater in appearance.
If I might interject, you missed part of the point of the "thumb screw" on that plate. If you look at the numbers on the plate for the stitch length, pick a setting, let's say you select "7". Now loosen and slide the THUMBSCREW down till it stops and turn it tight. Now commence sewing (forward).... When you want to reverse your stitch and back up, you just slide the paddle shaped lever the other direction until it stops, and like magic, it will stop at the same stitch length setting in reverse as you had set in the forward position. That's what it's for. It has nothing to do with the machine "laboring" and anything jumping around.
Thank you for the thorough description JP. I should add that my point about the "jumping" is that I have noticed on rare occasions that if the machine is asked to sew through very heavy fabric, setting this feature can help keep the stitch length consistent. I noticed that if it were not set, the stitch length lever can move up on its own from the longest stitch length setting.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage how much?
I have two 15-91s. Love love love them. The one in a table is my go to girl.
It's easy to see why you love this model, Shellie. It may have been the most highly produced sewing machine model in history; especially if you count all of the 'Clone' copies that were made and might even still be getting produced in some developing countries!
It's missing the lower spool pin, the stitch length stopper thumb screw. That was easy! 🤣(I've been "conserving machines for around 8-9 years now)
Good video. I have a 15-91 on the work bench right now in pieces. I have my spool posts and set screws but what I was missing was the power cord. Borrowed one from my Singer 401A to test out the motor and it worked.
I noticed right away the missing bobbin winding spool pin and the stitch regulator thumb screw. I have a 1948 201, and I know they are similar. I keep acquiring vintage sewing machines. I love it! I'm expecting my 1926 127 with motor and light option from eBay any time. I will very soon be the proud owner of a treadle Singer, age near the turn of the century. I have a 1930 Singer 99, which I love sewing on. I watch your videos, as they are very informative, and among the best out there. I recently was given a 1917 Western Electric sewing machine. There is not much info out there, but I've learned a few things about them. Mine has the vibrating shuttle. Keep up the great videos!
Hello, I am refurbishing a 15-91, my first project like this. I am a lifelong sewer, have a number of machines, and like to tinker. My machine was a $10 Goodwill rescue. It had no power cord and the bobbin area was missing several parts. I have been systematically going through it, section by section, cleaning corrosion off of parts, oiling, and adjusting. I initially ordered a replacement bobbin hook and bobbin case, but then had to just replace the whole bobbin assembly. I felt ready to check timing and try getting it to sew. When I put all of the bobbin assembly together and put in a needle (it is the correct type) -- and it did take a while to get the needle clamp and thread guide back on the needle bar -- I carefully turned the hand crank and the needle hit the bobbin case. Ugh. So I took out enough parts to be able to see the hook as the needle moved up and down to try to adjust timing, but it appears that the timing looks good -- it appears the hook and needle are synchronized except that the needle appears to go too deep (not much). There is a specification I came upon on line for how much of the needle should penetrate beyond the hook. I have already adjusted the height of the presser foot to the measurements specified in the manual. The other clue is that when the presser foot is up, the needle (actually the needle clamp and thread guide) collide with it at the lowest point (enough to prevent turning the handwheel). This could be normal, but it would make corners (pivoting fabric around the needle in its lowest position) very awkward, and the manual makes no mention of not raising the presser foot when the needle is down. My suspicion is that the needle bar is set too low. It coincides with the markings etched in the bar although by that could be a tiny bit higher. I do not know if the bushing has been moved or adjusted. Following the instructions in the manuals, I loosened the set screw for the needle bar (hard to get to and very tight) but I am not yet able to move it. In all of the fussing, I have misplaced the bobbin case so I have ordered another. It will be interesting if the problem persists with a different bobbin case, although the collision still doesn't make sense. Do you have any suggestions.
I enjoy your videos. A completely different question -- is the Featherweight still available?
I have my grand mom's 15-91 Love it.
Wow this was great! I'm going to look at a 15 tomorrow, now I know what to look for
Great!
Just picked up one of these machines for some leather goods manufacturing. Can’t wait to get it going!
OMG I was wondering that this morning and now I realize that my sewing machine is missing the lower spool pin, I will buy one soon!!
Thank you for the info, these vids are very helpful! Greetings from Costa Rica!
Moises Serrano mine is missing the top spool holder. That’s what brought me to search for one and I got sidetracked on YT. Lol! Anyone know where we can order “missing” parts?
@@dreamwrvr9257 Sewing Parts Online or Amazon has parts for the 15-91. Be aware that the 15-91 spool pin is larger in diameter than the YA-1 spool pin. I got mine on Ebay from Australia.
RICH LOVIN I bought a pin from Etsy and it just came in the mail today. It doesn’t seem like it will be all that secure though. Does anyone know if I’m supposed to “tap” in the top spool holder like the bottom bobbin pin? Stupid question I know....but I’d like it to stay put while sewing or storing. 🙂
The correct spool pin for these has a short taper on one end. Insert the tapered end into the opening hole and gently tap it into place by using a wooded handle (such as that on a rubber mallet) and a hammer to get it in. It should "set" and stay in. Using the wooden handle makes it easier on the machine and keeps you from marring the pin.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage thanks so much! Is there a thread cutter on this machine? It looks like my machine has something with a sharp edge but it’s not all that sharp to cut thread. Just spent a while on singers website and haven’t seen anything.
I got one my grandmother had I wish I could get somebody to work on that
Hi Kenny. Try joining one of the vintage sewing machine groups on Facebook. There are some groups dedicated specifically to vintage Singer machines. Someone there may be able to direct you to a local source for repair/restoration.
I have a Singer AB221881, class 15 dated 1926, with a No.47 oscillating bobbin. I don't have the bobbin pin or wheel on the base, no holes showing for a pin or missing wheel. I don't have the book for it. How do I wind bobbins?
seen it right away .
What brand and size of needles would this use? Would they have a round shaft or flat sided?
I just stumbled on your youtube. I found a Singer machine that looks a somewhat like you have here. I would like to take a chance and see if I can fix it. Totally new to this idea.
I have Pfaffs and Berninas that are about 50 year old. I liked what you said about this style machine will sew heavy fabrics.. I would like to sew a denham quilt for great grandkids to throw around outside. So it will be for the fun of it all. Suggestions on how to go about it would be appreciated love to try.
Judi,
Step one is to go online and look up the serial number on one of the databases. I think you'll find it stamped on a small flat surface. It will tell you when and where the machine was made, and most importantly the model number. You can then search for videos, parts and a manual. The great thing about Singer, as this man said, is the parts are easily found. Those old ones were built like battleships, if you oil it up there is an excellent chance that it will work right now. Take care and check the wiring carefully before you plug it in. The wiring insulation was rubber, not vinyl, and it is prone to cracking and crumbling. It is easily replaced by just about anyone with some basic electrical knowledge. Good luck.
Ian
Thank you, i learned so much!
You're so welcome!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
Where can I get a manual for my singer 15- k
I have 2 questions:
1. Would happen to know if all vintage Singer sewing machines had the tapered spool holder? I've seen also very similar ones but that have threads, allegedly also for Singer. Trying to figure this out for a couple of my machines.
2. How can one detach the tapered spool holder? I have a broken Singer that I found and would like to use this part for a functional one.
I got old singer sweing machine AF405107. I don't know how to stop mother when not using. I have to pull the plug out from wall outlet. Also the needle bar continually move even I move nickel hand wheel clockwise or anti clockwise.
Thank you for this.
I am fascinated with these old Singer machines.
I believe they are as near mechanically perfect as one could hope for.
I am going to look at my 1st machine this weekend and it is nearly identical to this one.
I looked at a similar one in an antique store today (not under power) and fiddled with that stitch adjustement.
I noticed that when I set the thumb screw at +- 15-30 stitch per inch, the lever wouldn't seem go up into reverse unless I lowered that thumb screw.
What am I missing about this function?
Edit;
On 2nd thought, maybe I was supposed to raise the lever to the desired setting 1st, then raise the thumbscrew to the BOTTOM of the lever.. duh
It sounds like you figured it out. Whenever you find a situation like that where its not intuitive how a machine's settings work, the user manual is your friend and a great resource. Manuals back in those days were quite thorough. And yes, I am very enamored with Singers. They are amongst the most user friendly machines to work on.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I ended up purchasing the 15-91 machine from CL.
After polishing the bright metal and a little rubbing, It is near museum quality.
I got extremely lucky, I bought the machine from the original owners grandson for $200.
It has lived it's life in a single living room in Boulder Colorado until a month ago.
Only issue is it hasn't been used regularly since the mid 70's & Even tho the original wiring insulation is in great condition, the power cord has taken it's folded shape so I ordered a new replacement, as well as new Grease wicks, motor brushes, ect.
I didn't want to even try to run the motor after seeing some of the YT videos until I disassembled the motor for cleaning and rewiring if needed but that original 87 yr old wiring inside the motor looks flawless.
I am as proud of this machine as any other equipment I own!
Cheers
@@rogerbivins9144 I use mine most days. I adore it.
Is there a website which sells the original carbon pile foot pedals? Mine works perfectly but the case is broken and rubber feet broken so I need a new case.
Can I use the 15-91 regularly without a base? Thank you and thank you for your videos.
I loosen the back part to disengage my needle section when spooling the bobbin. But, no matter what I do, the needle is still engaged. Does anyone care to venture a guess as to why?
I recently purchased a singer Treadle Sewing machine AL982241. 15-88/15/89 do you have a video showing this machine?
Thanks.
Cant wait!
The knob to set the thread length.
My machine (that I'm working on restoring) is almost identical to this one!
I inherited one of these and I cannot for the life of me make it work, no matter what I try. The tension fights me every step of the way. I disassembled and reassembled the tension components and there's no resistance at 0, a little resistance at 5, and great resistance at 9. I'm threading it correctly according to the guides I'm seeing on youtube and the manual. It just won't stay right for me. I get some good stitches and then they start to skip, and then the top thread comes undone and the whole thing is a mess. It tangles and nests often on the underside of the fabric. I've checked the bobbin, the top thread looking for any kind of problem that I could have done. I set it up exactly the same way everyone else does. It just won't work for me. It's so frustrating! Do you have guides to help calibrate the tension???
I'm nobody but seem to remember a nesting issue I had after removing the bobbin case assembly on a new (old) machine for oiling and not getting it back together quite right. It wasn't a tension issue at all. And, many issues with stitching can be solved with a new needle.
Are some parts interchangeable? I have two machines and I wondered if they could use the parts interchangeably
I have been watching all you cleaning and maintence vidios recenlt because I was gifted a Singer 101 , serial number from 1922, the first machine by singer sold to households. My last two maintenance areas are the, motor grease cleaning and also dont know it the box where the machine turns on from inside the machine under the memovable cover. Does this require andy maintenance? my is clean but not lubricated.
I have a AE357881 looking for a presser foot and having issues with the needle picking up the bottom thread any ideas I am also looking for a manual. Thanks
I recently got a 15-91 and was able to download (free) both the instruction manual and the manual for adjusters. Just Google. It sounds like the problem you are having is either timing or incorrect threading (I would bet timing). Should also check needle bar height. (problem I am dealing with). Good luck!
I have this exact machine with its cabinet. What would this machine and cabinet be worth? I'll sell soon.
If I were allowed only one machine, I really think it would be my 15.
I’m missing the disk under that cover that stops that stitch . Where do I get the disk that slides . I have the cover that has the stitch length but don’t have that slideable disk. How or where do I get one? I did not know that was even missing. I don’t have the moveable slideable disk....jeez Louise!!
You might try bonanza.com or ebay and etsy also. This part should be available given how many of these machines were made. Try bonanza first.
thank you so much! I would have never known about this disk!!@@VintageSewingMachineGarage
Etsy and eBay are always good sources for missing parts. You can set up searches to receive email notifications on posted items.
I recently acquired one and yes, it's missing both of those pins! I got replacements, and my bobbin tire is cracked and worn out. I got a new one. But I don't know how to install it. It also has a timing issue I believe. And I got a new power cord for it.
Can you tell me where to get the correct bobbin case and bobbins for this machine I believe I have it, but I need to look at it and make sure it's the correct ones. Thank you! I really want to use this machine to make some wallets and handbags out of cloth and vynil with heavy stabilizers. This is the perfect machine for that.
Hello. First, I would try replacing the bobbin case. I also would suggest checking out my "TROUBLESHOOTING SERIES" videos to go through some basic checks before looking at the timing. Something as simple as a needle not properly installed can offset the timing. Timing can be off but its very uncommon unless a prior owner abused the machine. For the bobbin case, you can purchase vintage ones or new replacements. Bobbin cases have a certain life span and can fail or rust which also causes issues. For vintage bobbin cases, you can try a website I find very helpful: bonanza.com For new replacements, I often use: shop.sew-classic.com/ Those Singer 15s are very strong and durable machines, but there are a number of things that can cause your issues. Also remember to check and see if your tension assembly is working correctly. With patience, its quite possible you will get this strong machine back on the mend!!
What do you charge to overhaul 2 vintage singer sewing machines
Strangely the lock plate isn't much good for locking the max length stitch in, when using extra thick materials... It only locks the stitch when using very small stitches. Counter intuitive. When as you say, stitching thicker fabrics are more likely to shift the length of the stitch.
How much for your service
I just purchased a "--15--" and it looks like the 15 you are showing and some call it a 15-91. The manual that came with my machine is for a 15-125. Can you tell me the difference. The IMACS show that this is just a "15" made May 11, 1954. Another video person says the newer class 15 bobbins work well in the machine but not in the bobbin winder. Any comments on that before I purchase a few extra bobbins? Thanks for your time and excellent videos.
Hello Mindy. Most vintage sewing machines "prefer" not only metal Class 15 bobbins, but specifically, VINTAGE metal ones. These are very plentiful and not costly. As long as you use 'vintage' in your search terms for these, you can find them many places such as Ebay, Etsy, Bonanza, and others. Your 15-175 was the "New and Improved" version of the 15-91. It had the same "Potted Motor" and drive train components of the 15-91, but in a newly shaped body which came in the traditional black but also lighter colors like mint green and beige/brown. Just as with the 15-91 which also came in a less costly version using traditional rear mount motors and motor belts, your machine also offered that option. It was called the 15-75. I've not see many of these since when they were introduced, people were increasingly moving towards competing models with ZigZag and Multi-Stitch capabilities. Here is a link to the 15-75 version that I restored and videoed czcams.com/video/j4zKIlvUj5g/video.html
Do you know why the bobbin winder wouldn’t be working on the 1591?
I have a 201 that came with the spool pin missing...sheared off in the top. I haven't been able to get it out. Is there a secret to removing the bottom part of the spool pin from the machine???
It seems there are two kinds...one that screws in and one that needs to be pounded in....how can you tell which on you need if it was sheared off ? Can't seem to remove it!
Hello Ann. If you are referring to the pin down on the bed of the machine that is used for bobbin winding, the hole in the bed goes all the way through the bed and you could use a nail set or some other tool to tap it out from underneath. The singer spool pins of this era are tappered on the bottom.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm referring to the spool pin on the top of the machine...
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm referring to the spool pin on the top of the machine. I've tried to pound it out and tried to drill it out...Pounding it out didn't accomplish anything and .It must have been made of some really strong steel because it's really hard for a drill bit to drill it out. Do you have a solution?? Am I approaching the problem wrong?
Ann Waters The spool pin on top of a Singer 201 is threaded with right hand thread. You state that you have drilled out the center of the old, sheared off spool pin.
You need to try a proper sized extractor to back out the sheared off spool pin. Always soak the threads with sewing machine oil before trying to extract or remove anything stubborn. Do not shear off the extractor in the drilled hole! If you do, then that is three steps backward.
I've just recovered a similar machine to this one but it has no motor. Also the serial number begins with E. I can't locate where it was made (!?). Any ideas?
Hello. If you use the whole serial number and check it at ISMACS site under Singer serial numbers, you will find the year it was produced. Sometimes, it will show where it was made also. If yours is old enough, it might have been for treadle use or it might just be missing its motor. You can get replacement motors, brackets and bracket bolts for these.
It is a treadle machine bought in Peru. I'll look up the serial numbers. Thank you very much
Mine didn't even come with a manual for it
You can get a PDF copy of the manuals for free online. Singer manuals are almost always available free of charge.
Just wondering, is my Singer with Serial # AK629342 the same "model" as this one??? I'm a newbie - just got out an family heirloom I've been saving for years. Now that years have passed, I've got it out and I'm trying ti figure out the model so I can order parts! So far, the machine you use in this video looks the closest to the one I have when compared to all the images I've found so far on the internet...
That shows up on the ismacs.net site as a model 15 from 1951, I believe. They have all the Singer serial numbers there, with dates and models. It all starts with one machine haha.