Diving Deeper Down The Oil Filter Rabbit Hole- Here's What I Should Have Said
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- čas přidán 21. 04. 2023
- There were a couple of things on our previous video on oil filters that were not completely accurate. While we stand by our overall conclusions, we thought it was important to go back and correct and clarify the things we did say.
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The pressure is regulated at the pump, not the filter. You still don’t get it.
The differential pressure valve isn’t a regulator. It’s a bypass.
Pleas spend some time with Fleetgard or some other manufacturer. You’re still clueless.
I've done countless videos on all aspects of oiling systems including circuitry through the engines, pumps and specifically how to tune pressure with the oil pressure bypass spring IN THE PUMP.
All those videos are still up there, if you search.
This is one of those things where I'm only responsible for what I say, NOT what you hear...
the pressures is regulated at the pump by a bypass valve. youre getting hung up on formalities. the valve in the filter bleeds oil past the filter media to regulate pressure, it bypasses the filter. the bypass in the pump regulates pressure by bleeding excess pressure to the sump. they both effectively the same thing but the oil pump's valve regulates the pressure to the oiling system, the one in the filter maintains that pressure in the circumstance that the filter media is restricting oil
Alan, regardless of the content of anyone's posts, yours included, your addition of the little ad-hom insult at the end just tells the rest of us, right or wrong, that your main intention is to make yourself feel smart, not to clarify any facts.
It appears his point is what happens in the filter. How it shuts down filtering to allow oil flow. Not the actual oil pressure. Maybe you should get off your high horse and listen.
Uncle Tony does get it he's very aware of the spring in the oiling system of a V8 engine he's discussing oil filters not the internal engine controls very insulting to Tony and his loyal viewers who know a thing or two about auto engines
A real man admits his errors, the others find excuses. Thanks for all the great videos. Best Regards - Mike
What's your excuse?
Don't have enough room here to list them 🙂 !!
Sure you do.@@mikelaumaillier9271
sorry but bypass of filter only work when yor filter is clooged,, if you do a regualr amintenace to your engine it will never happen
@@mikelaumaillier9271 Carry on.
You never fail to correct yourself Tony, even over the slightest detail. That's integrity. I'm also down for the count for a while. 60 year old backs hey 🤣
My back's 71 years old, and I never give it a break. Jack LaLane taught us whenever you feel a pulled muscle or even a twinge, isolate the muscle involved and begin slowly stretch and hold, then release, and do it over and over. Gently!
Does that really work? 66 year old asking!
I use to think getting old was just people making excuses for laziness. Now that I’m turning 40 and have developed type 2 diabetes it makes getting a project on a car ten times harder than it did when I was 20 and full of steam lol.
@@outlawbillionairez9780 I use to watch his juicer infomercials all the time 😂
@@gerhardbraatz6305 if you pull or stretch (hyper extend) muscles in your back, I recommend lying on your side, and moving slowly, bend forward till you figure out what muscle (s) is the problem. Focus on the movement that stretches that muscle. Try to single it out. It's hard when you're hurtin, but you can press in spots till you locate it. Then it's just stretch/release. Get comfortable. Takes a while.
This right here is what makes Uncle Tony the absolute BEST. Everyone makes mistakes, but only those with honor and humilitywill man up, admit their error, then explain things correctly. Way to go, Uncle Tony!
I agree 👍
Great display of humility Uncle Tony for clarifying your statements from your first video. The last two episodes you have posted on the function of an oil filter during operation have been very educational as all of your episodes are 👍
Wow, thats a fine mesh screen. Aircooled VW screens only filter out anything larger than a bird
Only if it doesn't skip past the bypass in the block lol
😂😂😂
I swear Peg is somewhere saying "you don't need a f'n oil filter"
Cool that you corrected this, and in such a cheerful fashion I might add. Hope you get well soon!
Tony my sympathies, I'm your age a retired mechanic and fought back problems since I was 19, I get it!
It takes a big person to admit when they goofed, you’re a good man Uncle Tony. We appreciate that. Love your channel!
Lots of respect uncle Tony. I've been watching and learning from you for years now. Takes a real man to admit when he's wrong. I'll continue to watch and learn for hopefully years to come.
I did notice those tires too. They looked like jeep grand Cherokee factory rims to me. 90s era
Here we go again for round two 🤣
Round three in the back yard 👌
Hope your feel better soon Uncle Tony
Integrity and the willingness to make a correction when you are (slightly) wrong is another reason why I will keep watching UTG. Great job Tony and team!
I've got a couple of the Obergs like yours, it's the Tattletale model, that threaded hole in the side mounts a sensor that warns you when it's restricted and needs to be checked and cleaned. I've also got one of the racing models with the sandwich plate in the middle and double screens. Even with the remote kit, lines and fittings they're only a few hundred and well worth the cost for any high performance engine.
You Should have talked about the Full Flow "System 1" Brand Full Flow No Bypass Race Oil Filter and the Full Race Full Flow Spin-On Full Race Oil Filters like Moroso's 2 Qt. High Micron Rating Fram PH373 Equivalent (that does Not have a Internal Bypass) especially used in Dual Spin-On Filter Mounts so there is not restriction when these two 2 qt. filters are run in Parallel indicated by no pressure drop before and after the dual filter mount at max oil volume and pressure. You should do another correction video.
I have never really had a thing for motorcycles but Ryan Fortnine is absolutely fascinating. His videos are the most artsy gearhead themed videos out there. The Quinten Tarantino of zoomy things.
I'm pretty sure the spring in the bottom is only there to keep the media cartridge pushed against the inlet, you don't want it to move, if the media cartridge could move the anti-drainback valve could let loose and clog the outlet, plus there is no pressure differential that would push the media cartridge down everything on the clean side of the media should be under roughly the same pressure so there's just as much oil pressure trying to push down the top cap of the media cartridge down as there is pressure pushing against the walls of the can and the endcap on the bottom of the media cartridge, so there should be no movement of the media cartridge. The scoring on the can walls likely came during assembly and disassembly of the filter.
I was about to reply with this but you did such a great job explaining it that I don't have to now!
Why does only 1 extrusion show wear then ? The nature of the spring load would force one of them to the side of the can like that
Good job Brandon. You are correct the coil spring only holds the element against the end plate . Also there is equal pressure in the metal housing , the element does not move up and down
Actually as the media begins to drop pressure (clog), the interior outlet hole (to the oil galleries) will be at lower pressure whereas the entire cap at the other (spring) end will have full inlet pressure against its whole surface area. In other words, pressure drop across the media serves to push it closed tighter along with the spring, rather than to try and open against it. So , yeah that spring is there either just to hold the media or to relieve the media if somehow a reversal of pressure were to occur. Can anybody envision a scenario where the oil pump stops, but there's back pressure in the engine that thusly needs to be relieved? Seems like the only reason to do this rather than to solid mount the media.
Hey Big B, you are absolutely correct. I will put this here not to detract so much from Tony's channel, since he still kinda doesn't have it exactly right. Soooooo, the are two springs in the "spin" on oil filter. One at the top which is part of the bypass/pressure differential "system" in the filter, if the filter gets plugged, there is a bypass directly to the engine, the "spring" is like a "wavy/Belleview/ spring" washer used to cushion clutch application in automatic transmission clutch packs. The second "coil spring" holds the "element" in place.
The element has a known resistance to the oil flow, lets say .5 psi, it does not matter if the pressure on the inlet is a billion psi or 10 psi, in an unrestricted (new) element it will only reduce the pressure by .5 psi. So high volume/high pressure does not effect the function of this "valve", no matter the RPM, Pressure, or Volume, the valve only opens when there is x amount of "difference", not overall pressure.
Also witness marks, we all know that the typical oil pump pulses, so some vibration of the element is to be expected because it is held in place by a spring, hence the rubbing in the "can".
Oh yeah, the "race" type filters are good for filtering out big chunks that cause catastrophic failures, but not for carbon, of course since you change the oil, and even do rebuilds between rounds, carbon is not a concern.
TAD Blue Mule
NC
www.fram.com/media/wysiwyg/resources/consumer_tech_docs/threevital.pdf
If you block the bypass in the Oberg you can blow the woven mesh apart, seen it happen twice.
Wix racing filters don't have a bypass in the filter . Also you can delete or plug the oem bypass that the filter screws on to. That's wat we do on race engines
Try a FilterMag. Been using them for years. Cut open the filter after oil change and the trapped metal particulates are captured on the side of the filter. Awesome product. Give it a try and a review.
Any magnet will work, don’t throw away your old microwaves without removing the nice strong magnets from the magnetron - those are strong assed magnets strap one of them to the side of your filter
@kellismith4329 sure that'll work. I used a bunch of neodymium magnets I bought for $50 off Amazon to put on my filter, while the FilterMags were on backorder. They worked well, but are nowhere near as convenient as the FilterMags. It cost almost $100 for 2 of the FilterMags, but I think the convenience is worth it for me.
We used to say "Don't buy a Fram!" We were using Hastings filters at that time.
You still have made me look at filters differently though. Thanks for your videos on the subject. Garage 54 did a clear filter mod to see how a filter flowed and you can see it flows though the media. I don't remember if they measured pressure though.
Moroso makes an screen that fits on top of the oil filter before it screwed on to stop unfiltered big chunks from even going into the oil filter or making it through the by-pass.
It took me a few videos before I realized that this was Tony Defeo, THE Tony Defeo that was responsible for me owning 4 fox body Mustangs since 1993. I will always remember the line "the car ran in the 13.40's at 101 mph thru the cars stock 3.08's and on street tires"
Informative videos. The only thing I would add to the discussion is installing a magnetic drain plug; these work great on my motorcycles and on the cars as well.
This is why I watch you UT you get to the truth and if you are wrong you still get to the truth….. Thanks UT
One of the biggest reasons for the filter bypass is so if the filter gets clogged it opens and does not starve the engine of oil. If the filter didn't have this feature lots of folks who don't change the oil regularly would be buying engines. In the world of hydraulics, you can buy no bypassing filters and also spec what particle size will pass them.
I would like to see more on that oil filter. Thanks for the video.
Now that we've gotten past that and done all this discussion, it seems like for performance applications someone could come up with a pre filter screen that could take care of some of the larger chunks in a high RPM failure to help deal with this issue. Sort of like the pickup screen on the oil pump but a finer screen than that and something that can be serviced without dismantling the engine.
Edit: Lol I just watched up to the point before you discussed the Olburg filter! Looks like someone's already got a solution.
I noticed the wheels in the background too, from an older Jeep Grand Cherokee I believe. Hope your back gets better soon, take care of yourself UT.
Great info UT! People obsess about oil filters way too much IMO. I try to always use an OEM filter, they most times are less than all these other aftermarket ones except for the cheapo ones. I have Fords right now, E350 Van and Taurus and buy the Motorcraft filters for about 5 bucks each. You can't get better for the money. Made in the USA too! Change them often and you will seldom have an issue.
Tiny details and terminology aside your initial presentation was correct. I knew this would get a clarification video, always class uncle Tony. If you've been around engines you already knew the filter doesn't save your motor when big metal becomes small metal.
The sbc oil filter bypass is built into the filter mount, not part of the filter.
Donaldson used to have detailed specs on their website, thread diameter and pitch, bypass valve opening pressure, external dimensions, etc.
I believe those are volume relief valves, not pressure.
@@TheBrokenLife The specifications list opening pressure in psi, etc.
I also found wix filter website has specs as well.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I was talking about the relief in the motor. The specs you're seeing for the filters are, indeed, over-pressure relief. Some motors use both.
Digging deeper... it looks like there are AC Delco filter fitments for "small blocks" that go either way. I believe the first SBCs had cartridge filters, so those would rely on the bypass in the motor for all purposes since that's all they had. It's possible that GM carried that design intent long into the future.
With the exception of the Duramax diesels , if a GM vehicle uses an imperial 13/16-16 oil filter the bypass is in the block, same with vehicles that use M18x1.5mm filters.
@@brandonupchurch7628 Yes that's true as far as I know. What are the details for the anti-drainback valve? PF25/PF35 don't have anti-drainback but PF52(metric) does. I guess PF52 anti-drainback isn't necessary in some cases, but it's there.
Fun with filters!
The real issue is that when you have a failure in an engine that results in a significant amount of metal particles winding up in the oil, most of them never even make it to the oil filter. Not only do they not get trapped by the actual filter, they don't go through the bypass either. They wind up scattered throughout the engine. I have disassembled engines that had suffered some kind of mechanical failure, but still ran for some time before the failure made itself known or was ran even though it should have been obvious there was a problem. I found fairly severe damage all over the place. Pieces of metal embedded in the crank and con rod bearings throughout the engine, scored crank and cam journals, scored cylinder walls, pieces of metal in various oil passages, laying on top of the heads, and pieces of metal in the oil pan. Pretty much nothing in the filter, and only tiny flecks of metal dust in the oil when it was drained. Once in a while a fairly large piece of metal will come out through the oil drain.
Remember toiler paper oil filters? Back in the '60s and into the early '70s, you could get both empty housings designed to hold a roll of actual toilet paper, which were usually mounted remotely, using oil lines connected to an adaptor installed where the oil filter would normally go, and incorporated an anti drain back valve, like an oil cooler, but you could also buy factory made oil filters that worked and fit just like any other oil filter, but used basically a roll of toilet paper as the filtering media. Very little oil actually made it through these filters, most of it went through the bypass. But enough did to not only remove larger pieces of debris, but literally everything, including the stuff that is normally held in suspension in the oil, turning it dark. They even removed the additives from the oil. They gave the impression that they kept the oil clean longer, because the oil on the dipstick would not turn black nearly as quick. But you were using oil with most of the additives, including detergent, removed. Ford used these filters from the factory for some time. The main problem with them was that if you left one on for too long without changing it, the toilet paper would shred, and you would wind up with a destroyed engine filled with shredded toilet paper.
There was also a time they marketed clear oil that looked like water. The idea being it’d seem super clean and friendly going in.
But, it would very quickly get tinted by the regular gunk in the engine so people thought the oil was junk since it got dirty so quick. Plus can make it hard to see on a dipstick if it’s totally clear. A lot of oil starts off clear and gets a tint added so it has that light tan color.
Thanks for clearing this up. Your explanation makes sense and it is new info for me. (I love to learn) Hope you back feels better soon.
I saw the initial filter video about 4 or 5 days ago. I went out to the garage that night and cut open 2 fram oil filters. One from my 2011 Impala 3.5 and one from a SBC 350. Neither had a spring in the bottom, just a light sheet metal stand to prop up the media, but both had the crappy cardboard on top and bottom. About 2 years ago all the auto parts stores in my area, dropped fram oil filters cold, all at once. I switched to fram, when it became impossible to get the A/C Delco filters I had always used. I am switching to WIX filters which have metal top and bottom of the media, and they have a burst strength of 260 psi. I have also blocked the bypass valve in the spin on pad as well. I never gave it much thought for my basically warmed over stock engines, now I can't stop wondering and searching for info on this. Keep it up thanks.
Shoutout to fortnine! their videos are better than most films these days.
Always a stand up guy. Glad you corrected those few things so that I understand them correctly.
Get well soon Tony 🤕🩹
Long ago I was hospitalized for a week with a back injury. The injury returned once in a while. Uncle might be surprised just how much he can do if he wears a leather 2-3 inch leather weightlifting belt. It's not comfortable, but it helps a lot.
My 70-year-old tractor has a fuel filter that looks a lot like the Oberg oil filter, only much smaller. Keeps the rust flakes, sticks, and stones out.
Appreciate the attempt at correction. You got the delta-P part in hand now, but your understanding of the design and operation of the typical canister filter is still wrong. Ain't no way the whole element is actively cycling up and down inside the canister against the lower spring. The bottom spring is there is to provide load of the element up against the underside of the tap plate to seal the outer and inner chambers from each other. The witness marks you see are likely from assembly of the filter - the guts are stuffed (compressed) into the canister and then is mechanically crimped to the tap plate. Also, one never sees any large "chunks" of metal in the filter media because anything that makes it to the media would have to first get sucked in through the oil pump pickup, which has a screen, and then through the pump itself, then at the filter inlet's circular pattern of holes in the filter tap plate. Think about it.
They would likely settle to the bottom of the oil pan more likely, a magnet on the pan would be better
nhra I gave you a thumbs up . Finally I found someone that understands how an oil filter works and what the coil spring is for .
Great job , you also explained the reason for the witness mark .
@@nicnic8357 likewise!
Thanks Tony, get well soon!
I'm glad to see that you're willing to admit that you made a mcsteak in how you represented something: everyone fucks up, the important thing is how you deal with it.
Thanks for the update. My response yesterday was related to typical "stock" lubrication systems for daily drivers. I do "stand corrected" in agreeing that for a modified (higher flow - GPM, higher pressure - PSI) lubrication system used to generate adequate oil film thickness in journal (non-rolling {ball, roller. spherical roller} element) bearings for performance motors the oil filter will typically not be filtering because the filter media "capacity" to filter has not been increased also. You are correct. Also, to fill in a gap that I didn't address was (very) cold starts in the daily street driver - their filters probably will be in by-pass mode until the oil temperature rises enough that the oil viscosity reduces enough to permit the (oil pump/engine RPM) oil pump output flow rate to pass through the media.
My apologies for my truncated response previously.
I have chronic back problems so I feel for you with the back pain.
Uncle Tony, you have a lot of knowledge about v8 engines. You be you. I've dedicated about 35 years to cars. Customers who want something for nothing don't pay the bill's
Props for owning it and making the correction :)
Great info again Tony. Makes you wonder why the oil system's pressure relief valve is in the pump and not after the filter...
The old Cadillac 331 in my 55 Caddy has a by-pass filter system that just pulls a small amount of oil from the system to be filtered. Kind of like the Luberfiner bypass filters big trucks used to use.
Cuz what if the filter gets plugged ?
Yep, and the big trucks stopped using them around 45 years ago. I wonder why?
Screen type filters are the way! I like the Pure Power spin on filters for the convenience.
Some of the oil is filtered some of the time
Tony, have you watched any Garage 54 here on youtube. I have never seen anyone do what they do to cars..
NO ONE!!!
It's a funny channel, and many of their umm builds are insane and some actually work
Thank you for this video you brought somthing to my attention that I have never really thought about.
what if you ran a larger oil filter, with alot more media volume so that you are not overwhelming the filter, this would keep the pressure differential down and allow all the oil to pass through the filter. Get a filter that they use on tractor trailer units and relocate that filter to where you have room to put it.
What do you guys think about putting on 2 regular filters, but plumbing them in parallel? That would cut the flow rate through each filter in half, and probably keep them from going into bypass during high flow/high rpm conditions. Thanks for all the cool videos by the way!
Great that you clarified and corrected yourself
This just enforces my opinion about changing oil more often than “manufacturer recommendations “
BTW, I'm 58 . Doing home improvement now. But I still know what your preaching.
I use mechanical oil pressure gauges and frequently see 60 PSI. I never see 20 PSI. Now while I am grateful to have good pressure it now makes me wonder if I ever filter any oil. Just an old man's fancy, but my motto with oil it to buy it cheap and change it often. Buy conventional and change every 1500 miles. Easy to do and helluva lot cheaper than buying a used car nowadays! My fav filters are the CarQuest which are the old original red purolater. The Purolater One filters are ideal for the super thin Synthetic used in modern engines, which I don't have.
I worry about my poor ole truck i pull trailers with. But its made it this long so either the filter works or that dirty ole ls just eats whatever. Thank you for the fix! Ive never heard of that filter style!
Thanks for the clarification.
For metal to end up in the filter wouldnt it have to get past the pickup screen and the oil pump?
Seems very unlikely anything big would come through there?
Would magnets in the oil pan be useful to catch stuff?
There are magnets to put on the filter but might be a gimmick?
You clearly haven't seen inside many engines. Metal spread throughout the engine is NOT a rare sight. Those magnetic plugs are fairly common these days. Not all metals are magnetic. "Big" is relative. That pickup screen is pretty course. Particles don't have to be very big to damage an engine. By the time there are enough particles for any magnet to catch, it's too late. Really "big" pieces usually end up falling to the bottom of the pan and staying there, but pieces that big are the end result of the small pieces.
If you use a large enough filter then you can block off the bypass. All the oil must then go through the filter protecting the engine. In his book,The Chevrolet Racing Engine Bill Jenkins gives details on this.
Props for re addressing this
In some engine applications (Isuzu Diesel) there is a second filter, a bypass filter. The results are, much cleaner oil being returned to the sump as smaller particles not filtered by the Full-Flow Filter can now be taken out of the system. These particulates are known to have caused wear in Turbo’s, ( turbine in the turbocharger usually spins at speeds between 80,000 and 200,000 rotations per min.) Cams, and Bearings which the engine can now benefit from their removal. I've only seen them in some diesel applications, but why don't today's god awfully expensive boosted engines use them?
In air cooled beetles you change the tiny 2.5 qltr oil capacity every 3000 miles. And the junk too fine for the screens got pumped into your bearings. 65k miles was the life of a bus engine if not abused, and the cars seed to be 100k before an exhaust valve failed.
Not sure they work the way you think, or as well as you think. Cummins stopped using them in the big engines about 45 years ago.
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship
The information I received from the AMSOL site on bypass filters is what I used to make such a claim. And my 89 NPR with a bypass filter has just keeped chugging.
Maybe buy a lift for the shop. Stop working off the floor. That might help your back. Or if you do have a lift, use it whenever possible.
Nice work, Tony
I would agree that oil pressure is affected by the oil filter. The oil filter acts as a regulator. A big oil leak could in theory also effect oil pressure.. Also it seems if a guy would want the best filtration, then the oil filter would need to somehow be inside the engine vs connected from the outside. I picture a oil filter that slides inside the block so that all the oil has no choice but to pass through the filter before being allowed to circulate through the rest of the engine. But then that would also create its own problems.
Good clarifications...now I'm seriously thinking about adding an Oberg filter to my Z06!
We always ran a Oberg on are Dirt Stock Car, 1st thing we would do after a night of racing was check it, one time we checked it it was full of Babbit, we new right away we had something that was about to fail, even though the Motor still ran fine and oil pressure was still normal, we tore it down and found a rod bearing was starting to spin, a set of bearings and gaskets was much cheaper than a rod threw the block
And this is why Tony has our respect.
Really enjoy the videos Uncle tony. That's good information for everyone to know about oil filters. Try valerian root and magnesium for your back when it goes out. Works great for me
Years ago, the lifters were rapping on my Mum's 383. Changed the oil to solve the problem. Always assumed the bypass malfunctioned. I guess the pressure was too low to push the spring down on the other bypass.
Sometimes, a dirty oil filter (usually from not changing the filter between oil changes) can cause so much backpressure that the oil pump bypass gets triggered instead of the bypass in the oil filter causing insufficient oil pressure to lubricate the lifters and rockers.
Yes, there is much proof that various oil filters cause more “resistance” to flow that it can cause noises - sometimes maybe the finer mesh of the high end filters can cause flow reduction and we could be fooling ourselves paying for them
Glad you me
Mentioned fòrtnine, I'm a follower of channel as welll
I am pretty sure the big spring on the bottom just holds the filtering element in position.
Bingo! We have a winner. That's it the sole purpose of the dome compression spring. Despite what was said in this video, It is NOT a "differential pressure regulator. "
great tutorial...makes absolute sense...i like that huge wide screened filter for saving a high-performance engine.
So on diesel truck engines back in the day, we had sock filters. There was a by-pass, but it was external to the filter and filter housing. Now these were big filters. Maybe 8~10" in diameter and 16~20" long ... 100% filtration. If the engine tossed metal, you'd find it in the filter media. These old and very effective filters were replaced on more modern engines with canister or spin-on's. Not such a great deal for the reasons you stated ...
So what to do? Run dual remote spin-on's with 1 qt hydraulic system filters. Enough media area to pass 100% of the oil w/o going into differential mode. And/or run race filters. Much courser media, but they will catch the chunks, and pass oil more easily w/o going into differential mode.
AND, if your engine will handle it (?) w/o sounding like a can of rocks on cold start - go to 0W-30 oil. It's thin enough cold to pass through most media and it's 30 when hot which is what the bearings are looking for 😁
WRONG! I owned one. They were a "bypass' filter that did very little. That's why they quit using them 45 years ago.
If your having back issues then try yoga ( it works for me and Hank Hill ) and you can also try cutting a potato in slices like bread and putting on the location with the pain it works like ice/hot…..sounds weird but it works. And lastly walking a lot like on a treadmill.
In theory this would mean the high volume pumps likely would cause less filtering wouldn't it?
Yes, also worse leaking when seals/gaskets fail
Spy vs Spy.
I remember the same design on both Spys. The only difference was the color.
Tony's was right, just in another color.
Its a ... bypass that wont do...at high pressure
Takes a big man to correct himself, thanks Tony for clearing up this matter.
Bottom line….the best filter for your oil is new oil…
I wonder if modifying the filter mount to connect 2-3 filters in parallel would fix the situation in racing applications. If the restriction of oil flow is cut in half with 2 filters theoretically the differential pressure should be half and the "bypass" spring should be twice as hard to open. The only thing creating the differential pressure is the restrictiveness of the filter media so putting filters in parallel should reduce the resistance/restrictiveness of the filter.
Good point, or maybe a larger oil filter would help
I hate back problems and I actually ended up having surgery because I just couldn’t stand the pain any longer and I’m so glad I did that. Anyway I’m finally getting ready to take the 318 and the small block 727 transmission out and install the 383 727 in the car and get it back on the road.
My back issues just corrected itself. I feel for you.
You riled up the BITOG forum.
Good video thanks Tony!
Great job here and before. Only non-gearheads complain.
Can't catch a break, can you? Forget to say the D word and they all gang up on you.. Calm down everybody, the video was still better than a lot of other ones out there. Expectations are very high for UTG.
Well said Uncle Tony. I really like watching your video and your an excellent teacher thank you I learned a lot...
You actually did not learn . His explanation of what the coil spring does is incorrect. The coil spring does not allow the filter to move up and down . Its purpose is to hold the filter element against the end plate and not allow the element to move . The coil spring is not a bypass valve nor is it a Pressure Diferential Regulator . The bypass valve is the spring inside the element and opens when the return side of the pressure is lower than the inlet side of the filter . I am waiting for this guy to try a third time and learn how a filter works .
@@nicnic8357 100% correct! 👍
TENS unit works well for back strains.
Thanks for the correction your the best buddy.
I thought the video last night didn't make sense to me but he corrected himself. Even the best make mistakes, takes a big man to admit it.
Takes a pretty big dog to shit a ton, and an even bigger cat to eat it
An honorable man corrects himself after learning that he was mistaken. Uncle Tony is an honorable man. 👍👌🤘
He didn’t really make a mistake though, what he said was taken in different context and he realized that, he clarified
@@kellismith4329 No, he actually did make a mistake and did NOT correct it. The ONLY purpose of the dome compression spring is to hole the filter element firmly in place. Period. It is not a "differential pressure regulator".
I knew what you were talking about, no need for apologies on my end.
Thanks Uncle Tony.
I am subscribed to both Fortnine and UTG. Never had a moment of thinking "i have wasted my time " in watching either channel. Excellence is why I am a subscriber to both channels.
They make a clear view that's like a smaller version of your old hot rod filter. You can hook air up to it blow all the oil out the filtration part, take the top window off and inspect/ remove or replace the metal screen thing. It's worth the extra money if ya got a decent chunk of money stuck into a built engine.
Thanks for suggesting the screen filter. Screen filters are a viable alternative, but are expensive and need a system install. A quicker less costly method is the Jomar filter which is a spin on with no bypass. The beauty of the Lomar is that it forces all oil through the media, and if you see pressure increrasing along the RPM range, its time to change the filter and/ or find out why it is clogging up.
Jomars usually catch all the debris. I've known people who swear by them. If there is something I am missing, please instruct. Keep up the good work. Its good to see someone who is focused on the bottom line for the average guy instead of the expensive builds.
Funny how tony mentioned the wheels ' I drifted off with the wheel arch/tub cut outs on the belvedere and wondered if removing the wheels were one of the reasons why they were cut off and if the original outer arches were still around to make them clip on or similar ? mind running off on another tangent like been back at school as a kid lol
HOWdy U-T-G, ...
the DIFFERENCE between FILTERING & "straining" your OIL ...
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMEeR from Richmond, INDIANA
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