The largest rainbow pistol ever! We go through some rough spots near the end but eventually get this blaster cranking! Facebook: archangel201... Instagram: / aeromechblasters
Nice, hope I don't get wrecked with it. I'm guessing its the same handle from your rifle build, I remember it was quite comfortable. But for pistols have you ever considered a handle more like the one on the Roughcut. Something with a bit more angle to it, I haven't seen one that I can think of in a 3D printed option.
Square plunger rods always work for me. Also a little tip that will fix spring binding in rainbows with any plunger rod. Take your spring rest ( i used .5" poly carb) then drill a 1/8" hole about 2mm under the hole your made in the spring rest for your plunger rod. Now take your spring and bend about 2mm of it out so it can fit into the 1/8" hole in the spring rest (the bend should be 90 degrees when the spring is at full compression). Now the spring cant move around on the spring rest and the coil will not fall into the catch notch. This has fixed all spring binding issues in my rainbows , hope it works for you too :)
Daniel Murray Can you make me a rainbow pistol? You can contact me at mtaylor12@frontier.comm Or(304)429-2726 Or(304)962-4250 We can discuss prices and options.
It's weird... most Hasbro catches work by having the spring on the top of the catchplate so it moves downwards into the notch when it catches - now when you go to fire, the trigger just cams the whole plate up to release. Rainbows instead have a screw that attaches to the catchplate and goes outside the plunger tube, where a spring (again outside the tube) pushes down on the screw to pull the catch plate downwards. The trigger then pushes up on the screw and spring to release the rod and fire. It's essentially just opposite from what Hasbro does, because trying to make a cam system and a custom catchplate that has a cutout for the screw would be impossible without either a 3D printer or a CNC. Even with a printer, it's still good to use a Rainbow catch because they work so well.
Dogma alert @ 10:10 Added spring pre-compression is only valuable when stroke length is already constrained. Volume is more valuable in general. Since you could still make the stroke longer, and get more volume, you should go for almost zero pre-compression. Only enough to stop spring rattle; I'd try for a quarter inch. Start with a longer pipe if necessary. Assembly should be greatly eased if you install the muzzle LAST. Obviously those handles should be re-sliced with 100% infill, down a few more millimeters, perhaps to about the middle of the trigger. If you have more already made, perhaps install some drywall screws for reinforcement.
+Bob O`Bob My infill is about %40 on most items. Even with 100%, if there is a crack/delamination, the extra infill won't matter much. The problem has been fixed by keeping the print room warm so layers' don't curl up. Pre-compression is very important in my experience. I'd take 6 inches of draw with one inch of precompression any day before 7 and 0. Why? I've seen 7 inch draw blasters not make it all the way forward. They stop about on inch or half inch short. i.e. the plunger has to start deccelerating at some point. When this happens, a vaccuum of sorts begins to form behind the dart, because the air is coming out at a slower rate at the last 25% of the draw because of the deccelaration. Not having precompression actually seems to slow down the darts. I've experienced range improvements in blasters I've actually removed that inch from in the PT. Just my observation from IRL nerfing and building.
+imtig3rman Rostock Max V2. It's alright, just took a while to get everything perfect. It's a lot of trial and error before you really get a feel for how to make good prints, more an art than a science.
+Spaceraptor derp Doesn't work as well as this method. I've seen this used in SNAPS and I've used this method no less than twice already with very suboptimal results.
wahh 3D printing can't take p-p-powah Would making a large stack of rainbow catch parts in a tube like fashion and cut them out in segments so it's easier? I wanna build crap too, *explodes*
+Snoop Doggy Doge Huh. Never thought of that. I mean technically, yeah, you're talking about like how you cut cookies out of a long roll of dough. The problems arise with accurately drilling through the stock material and accurately cutting it too. So practically, it would not actually work without precision facilities, that I do not have.
excellent job , u amuse a 73 yr. old man , give others time to learn from u , godbless , fun task stick job guy , godbless !
3:35
me: too used to the smell to even care
Nice, hope I don't get wrecked with it. I'm guessing its the same handle from your rifle build, I remember it was quite comfortable. But for pistols have you ever considered a handle more like the one on the Roughcut. Something with a bit more angle to it, I haven't seen one that I can think of in a 3D printed option.
this helped so much, thanks man
Hey can I get the STLs for that grip & trigger? Looks comfy and I'm super into printing my own Rainbow parts.
what sized partially threaded screw did you use? (for the catch screw
could you maybe sell a kit?
Could i get a link to the parts if you have one?
Square plunger rods always work for me. Also a little tip that will fix spring binding in rainbows with any plunger rod. Take your spring rest ( i used .5" poly carb) then drill a 1/8" hole about 2mm under the hole your made in the spring rest for your plunger rod. Now take your spring and bend about 2mm of it out so it can fit into the 1/8" hole in the spring rest (the bend should be 90 degrees when the spring is at full compression). Now the spring cant move around on the spring rest and the coil will not fall into the catch notch. This has fixed all spring binding issues in my rainbows , hope it works for you too :)
+daniel murray I'm looking for square plunger rods now, couldn't find it on McMaster, I'll go for a more in depth look later this week
+daniel murray I can't believe I never thought of that. Great idea.
+Aeromech I'll send to the part number if what iv used.
Daniel Murray
Can you make me a rainbow pistol?
You can contact me at mtaylor12@frontier.comm
Or(304)429-2726 Or(304)962-4250
We can discuss prices and options.
can u make a full rainbow tutorial? P.S luv ur vids
@Aeromech this in my opinion is very cool and simple.
can you make a video on how to make this weapon, so that it's easier to understand. thanks.
Where did you get the handle??? If you had to list everything you used what would it be?
how can i find one of those colorful handle? it've been a pain in the a** trying to make one so i figured buying will save me alot of time
Where is his website? I don't see it in the description and none of his contact pages are selling anything.
I Have A old Nerf gun and I wanted to make a rainbow pistol and i wanted to ask if i could use a pre made piston all ready would it work?
Very nice, but for future reference it’s called a hopper
How does the catch work I can't figure it out for the life of me
It's weird... most Hasbro catches work by having the spring on the top of the catchplate so it moves downwards into the notch when it catches - now when you go to fire, the trigger just cams the whole plate up to release. Rainbows instead have a screw that attaches to the catchplate and goes outside the plunger tube, where a spring (again outside the tube) pushes down on the screw to pull the catch plate downwards. The trigger then pushes up on the screw and spring to release the rod and fire. It's essentially just opposite from what Hasbro does, because trying to make a cam system and a custom catchplate that has a cutout for the screw would be impossible without either a 3D printer or a CNC. Even with a printer, it's still good to use a Rainbow catch because they work so well.
If you still need some help his original rainbow video has a demonstration for this
with making this rainbow pistol to make it shorter could you just cut the PVC pipe and the spring
Can you use hot glue instead, I have a ton and need to use it up
Aww boo. I was hoping you were using Mega darts.
Can the 3D printed parts be replaced with pieces of a cutting board?
Bit late, but totally! As long as you can cut them nicely
That thing was a beast at frozen foam
How much would it cost of you made me one
I'm terrible at homemades. Still back to Nerfhaven.
Could we get the file for the spacer you made?
Dogma alert @ 10:10
Added spring pre-compression is only valuable when stroke length is already constrained. Volume is more valuable in general. Since you could still make the stroke longer, and get more volume, you should go for almost zero pre-compression. Only enough to stop spring rattle; I'd try for a quarter inch. Start with a longer pipe if necessary.
Assembly should be greatly eased if you install the muzzle LAST.
Obviously those handles should be re-sliced with 100% infill, down a few more millimeters, perhaps to about the middle of the trigger. If you have more already made, perhaps install some drywall screws for reinforcement.
+Bob O`Bob My infill is about %40 on most items. Even with 100%, if there is a crack/delamination, the extra infill won't matter much. The problem has been fixed by keeping the print room warm so layers' don't curl up.
Pre-compression is very important in my experience. I'd take 6 inches of draw with one inch of precompression any day before 7 and 0. Why? I've seen 7 inch draw blasters not make it all the way forward. They stop about on inch or half inch short. i.e. the plunger has to start deccelerating at some point. When this happens, a vaccuum of sorts begins to form behind the dart, because the air is coming out at a slower rate at the last 25% of the draw because of the deccelaration. Not having precompression actually seems to slow down the darts. I've experienced range improvements in blasters I've actually removed that inch from in the PT. Just my observation from IRL nerfing and building.
xอ
aeromech please make a video about how to make a double rainbow thks
wow... nice..
Im using the home made rainbow catch, I have used one before so I wanted to make mu own
love the channel
Hi , quite nice , but where can i buy those hand grips from Australia , thank you,
Regards
George
George Collaros 3D print them
You earned a sub
xoxo
Can you do a guide on making a hipper and a chopper hopper or whatever it is called this is devil btw
Frast also good mod
That is literally just a welrod
link to the 3d printed catch?
where can I buy the 3D printer that he used to make those hand grips and all the rest of the stuff
Dave Charles any 3D printer can make those
What type of 3D printer do you use?
+imtig3rman Rostock Max V2. It's alright, just took a while to get everything perfect. It's a lot of trial and error before you really get a feel for how to make good prints, more an art than a science.
+Aeromech Thats awesome! I finished building my prusa i3 and was looking for some cool nerfing applications ☺
how big is the pvc pipe?
1-1/4". I forget the schedule number but its the most common one you find in stores.
What does the gun shoot
AwesomeDude627 nerf bullets for example
How much would you charge to make me one?
you could commision sun's guns
bruh, use electrical tape for friction fitting.
+Spaceraptor derp Doesn't work as well as this method. I've seen this used in SNAPS and I've used this method no less than twice already with very suboptimal results.
+Aeromech
interesting, does it not slide over it easy enough or is there air seal problems?
i really want to make one whats the website?
+luke otey Its not a site you want, look up some tutorials online.
+luke otey Gonna be up before winter break is over.
can I make the 3d parts with wood?
Im On Da Web hi me
wahh 3D printing can't take p-p-powah
Would making a large stack of rainbow catch parts in a tube like fashion and cut them out in segments so it's easier? I wanna build crap too, *explodes*
+Snoop Doggy Doge Huh. Never thought of that. I mean technically, yeah, you're talking about like how you cut cookies out of a long roll of dough. The problems arise with accurately drilling through the stock material and accurately cutting it too. So practically, it would not actually work without precision facilities, that I do not have.
;c agh we need to find someone? I want catches lel, just stuff
Hey Aero, its Iroh
+Davied Stevens sub'd
Is that an ATLA reference? I hope so
Where do I find your 3D models
im a rainbow person
please get a haircut
+Nerfblasteraddiction 567 Nevar